I feel horrible for Jason the previous owner, 6 speed, lsd, built motor, turbo kit, suspension, wheels, the dream miata build and couldn't buy it back or afford to pay the auction price, there is no way he got back what was put into that amazing machine, labor alone, I felt worse and worse the more I watched and saw how nice that car is. I pour one out for you Jason and your bad luck, may your next one be more lucky!
@@ericdolby1622 so hes actually my father...we had a huge storm and the owner of the warehouse he had it stored in didnt contact anyone about anything and we just couldnt afford it due to us being a military family. We got a Lexus in placement for it
15:20 as a audio guy. the speaker is fine. it's a plastic woofer. most stock car audio is using a paper woofer. so this might be reusable. it's not been high enough to go into the voice coil to affect it.. i suggest just gently cleaning the front and rear side. give them a quick test. if they don't crackle at reasonable volume. toss them back in. they don't look too bad. though they're not that high end.
Don’t forget to check the diff and transmission oil for water also the cv boots and steering rack. Also get some mould spray and clean all the interior surfaces and head liner.
Wouldn't hurt to spray some wax in the doors and rockers after they dry out, and put dielectric grease on all the connectors. Body cavity wax, you can buy in spray cans and they have long tubes to reach into the body panels. Both will reduce the possibility of residual moisture causing rust.
@@ferrumignis I live in MI and I wouldn't say clean NAs are super rare, it really helps they're kind of a summer car and the daily driven ones have fully rotted away by now That said I have the woolwax gun and use it faithfully on my NA
@@ferrumignis come to Australia. Cars don't rust here as most places are hot and dry. I have a 2001 NB with absolutely zero rust and 265,000 Kms on it.
@@Spookieham oh yeah I'll just move to the land of death. Angry vegetarian bears, kick boxing rats bigger than a human, and spiders the size of dinner plates. I'm in the airport right now. FYI love Australians hate their wildlife. I am not ashamed to call myself a little bitch. I don't want to ever come face to face with a bird eating spider no fucking thanks mate. I am perfectly fine with my tiny spiders like red backs as you call them, tarantulas that are barely palm size but rare to live long enough to get that size because of birds eating them and my rattle snakes. I live in California USA. The people are more likely to be dangerous you don't even see the dangerous animals in the suburbs or city's.
I really enjoy your "non-teardown" videos just as much as the teardowns. This car is a great save, and I feel really bad for your friend who lost it. Glad it got into your hands and that he can see it be repaired!
Got to wonder WHY flooded cars (fresh water) are often NOT left open to dry out. Even complex electronics that get wet in fresh water can often be saved by thoroughly washing with CLEAN water followed by a thorough rinse with distilled water. I have seen a hand held two way radio survive after cleaning having been over 24 hours under water turned on! Even salt water damage can be saved like that IF done quickly AND preferably if the item was not powered on when immersed. Always worth a try!
The “secret” is that you can happily wash a circuit board with detergent and water as long as it’s not powered and you rinse and dry it carefully afterwards.
Wow that is a shame for Jason 😞 I'm not a Miata guy but that seems like he had a LOT invested in that car. Hats off to you for bringing it back & giving him a chance to get a better payback...
Just a handy little tip: to easily remove the manual window crank clips, slide a shop towel in behind the crank so it snags the clip and alternate pulling down on each side of the towel like milking a cow and the clip will pop right out!
Ive actually found that using a sock works better than a towel, as the clip just pokes through the sock and gets looped in, GREATLY reducing the Christmas bells of that clip bouncing off everything metal in the garage before going to Narnia
For future reference, if you're trying to dry something out, go rent an LGR dehumidifier. LGR stands for low grain refrigerant. Without getting too technical, it will pull more moisture out of the air. It's what we use when we dry flooded houses
Great video! A few thoughts, keep working on the drying out process. I know because my 2019 pickup leaked from the day I bought it. The headliner filled to the top with rain and melting snow water. The dealer commented (with a smile) that it stunk up the whole building when they pulled out the carpets and seats. About three months later I got it back, they replaced the whole interior except the front seats. Happy ending - the truck smells like new again.
Get some Deoxit and spray it in every single connector, even once above the water line has the humidity in the car may still cause corrosion. Then get some body cavity wax and start spraying everywhere you possibly can get the nozzle in.
The name of the mystery Insurer is right on the windshield. I'm a customer of said Insurer as well, and have been for just about 15 years. They absolutely WILL NOT allow you to buy back "totalled" cars. In my case, years ago, I had an über rare SVT Focus EAP Model which was totalled when some numbnuts ran a Stop sign, smashing the drivers side hard enough to where they separated/cracked the frame. I could've made a ridiculous amount of money, just parting it out for Model specific parts (e.g. Recaro seats, HIDs, etc). Once they wrote the car off? Buzz off, seemed to be their opinion on the matter. Thank your Buddy for his Service. You got a Deal!
I've rebuilt several flood cars. The mold and the carpet and seats are the worst part. I normally just trash them. the rest isn't that bad. and I've done salt water floods. Wiring has to go on those. Fresh water or salt. Washing out body cavities and underneath is a good practice for stopping rust. Great job Eric!
To kill noise in Miata, use DynaPad three layer by Dynamat maker to get rid of noise. Get Hemholtz pipe from Goodwin Racing to get rid of boomy exhaust low frequency noise. You will hear only nice tones.
Usually after big floods insurance companies will just write off anything in a building that was flooded as long as it was below the water line. At least that’s the way it is with hurricanes.
If you have one, or can borrow / rent one, I’d recommend running an ozone generator in the interior to stop the progress of the mold growth. It won’t clear the mold, but it will kill what’s there and also should help eliminate the smell. As others have suggested if you intend to resume the interior, it will likely take a lot of scrubbing with disinfectant, maybe hydrogen peroxide. I’m gonna guess the hard-touch surfaces could be done this way, but the soft materials might be better off being chucked and replaced (actually I just got to the part where you cut the carpet 😅).
First gen Miatas were great. Handling, economical, tons of OEM and aftermarket parts out there, cute and reliable Even stock they are fast enough to get you in trouble.
I particularly like the older Mazda Miata that had the rear engine configuration. Talk about a Miata that was an absolute little badass and a wild child for sure! If I didn't know any better, your engine is starving for oil!!
0:37 ~ I'm in. Generally I'll avoid anything with that on the title. I bought a 88' Turbo Shadow in 91' with (apx) the same flood height and so on as the rig you're showing here. It turned out to be one of the most cost effective and fun car I'd ever own. In 91' it was an absolute barnstormer of weight and hp.
Super cool, video!! I’ve been buying auction vehicles for the wife and I, For many years. Yes a lot of work, but never!!! Lost money on any!! Really gotta pick the right ones, and did I mention??? Yes a lot of work, and patience, to make them right. Great video, great job!!
Miata valve noise magic fix - Castrol Magnatec. I have no idea why, lots of people suggested it and wow it worked on mine. I ran 8 & 12 PSI (switchable) for years on stock internals. If you have a built motor and a good safe tune you should be good with 16+ PSI (220 RWHP) . 12 PSI on stock is very common. I'm in New Zealand so we call them MX5's. Good luck. Fun cars. Mine was an 1800 NB JDM and the computer was in the footwell. Both the 1600 and 1800 JDM are there, but proneto flooding.
Another great "little" project! It's pretty clean considering the flood water. Rust not-withstanding, I'd make sure to remove all traces of mold with some sort of disinfection.
I've watched several of your videos and I have questions about some of your tools. Can you do a short video about your coordless and air-operated wrenches? I don't do a lot of mechanical work, but a lot of your tools could make life a lot easier. Thanks
Put 4oz. of seafoam in the oil when you are ready to drive it. It will free up the lifters and loosen any sludge. The change the oil after a 100-200 miles, I do this to my vehicles just before an oil change (50-100 Miles). My MINI N18 has a pretty big oil fill cap. You can easily see top top of the head casting looks brand new. Same with my Tacoma that has 160,000.
A bit of advise for working on old smelly or wet/flooded cars, get and Ozone generator. Ozone not only removes smells, it will kill mold and mildew. They are cheap too. 45 min and then airing it out can do wonders.
Makes me miss my old NA. Pulling the dash and heater core to get the carpet out in one piece isn't too hard. I did it in an afternoon and I had never done it before. My Mazda2 suffered a similar inundation when the local creek rose very sharply over night. Thankfully also a fairly simple car to pull out the seats and carpet to dry in the sun the next day. I did soak all the electrical connectors that got wet with a lot of wd40 as well. 6 years later, that car is still serving me well.
I had to do similar on my DC5 when after letting the car sit for a summer. Leaves got in the frame behind the fender, rotted away some seam sealer, water got through down to the floor and left mold and a nasty rust hole in the floor. I literally did everything you do in this video, tore the interior out, power washed and scrubbed the floor. Got lucky carpet wasnt too bad and used some non-bleach mold killer spray from walmart and it never came back. Now to fix the damn rust hole lol. Thanks for another great video.
The airbag delete would prevent registering that car in my state. (if you get selected for the state police inspection during registration, it's like 1 out of 10 rebuilds).
The insurance was USAA😎. I don’t get it because my mechanic bought his flood car back from usaa without an issue. But that was 4 years ago and maybe they’ve changed or it was the severity of the flood.
If I recall the most we ever dyno'd WHP on a NB was 310. We upgraded all the NA's from the 1.6 but for some reason they never would produce the horsepower the NB's did. 6 of us took a road trip from central KY to VIR back in the day and ran the long course. It was hilarious when the Porsche guys on the track had to move over to let us by. These cars were so simple to to work on and Soooo cheap to get engines for. A great friend of mine is the owner of Paco Motorsports. He sells a kit that makes a Miata off road vehicle.
It’s really good to see this great little Miata getting the TLC it deserves. It’s got lots of life left in it… and personally, I’d like to see it go back to Jason, if that’s workable. I’ve put lots of work into my MG, so I can sympathize.
I restored a "flooded" Chevy Cruze Diesel, though there was no scum line. I suspect someone left a window rolled down in a rain storm. Anyway, after setting for who knows how long at the auction, it was much like the Miata. The body control module sat on the floorboard and had corroded to uselessness. (Dealing with dealerships is a diatribe for another time.) But instead of replacing interior parts, I wiped down the seats with vinegar, which killed the mold, completely pulled the carpet, soaked it in Lysol solution, and let it set outside for a month to dry. (Some parts of the foam carpet backing were 4 inches thick.) There's also powerful ozone generators used to sanitize hotel rooms that works a treat deodorizing and killing mold in cars. I built mine from an ebay module, fan and homemade case.
@3:32 "I'm not gonna name the insurance company." It says USAA on the windshield. Owner should have insured with a named value policy thru a collector car agency such as Hagerty, Grundy, American Collectors, etc. etc.
I"ve had a car totalled and the buyback was more than the check. Integras are worth a LOT more as parts than as a running, driving, vehicle. I fought tooth and nail, but it they were unbending.
Slow mo on the jump made me want to be a dad tomorrow. I love your videos and editing style Eric. Hope the new addition to the family is going fantastic.
FYI: A couple insurance companies will not give buy-back option to vehicles marked biohazard, for liability reasons. They will only sell them at a dealer only auctions.
I Do Cars does Math: "When you add one project car to the amount of project cars I currently have, percentage-wise, it's not a big number." Also, I Do Cars: "It's fine."
It is a great deal, fresh water flood is nothing compared to salt water, and it wasn’t driving through the water, when they are driving through the water and it happens that’s when it’s really bad.
Hey Eric, there's another channel here on RUclips I'm subscribed to that's in the Chicago area and he would probably use cavity wax in the rocker panels and in that area in the lower front fenders prone to holding debris in them to prevent rust. You might want to consider doing that on your Miata.
Hoovies Garage has a TV Show on Velocity, called Car Issues. He bought a white 1st Gen Mazda Miata w/ 27K miles. He paid $11,000. It was in Mint Condition. The Wizard (mechanic) replaced the Timing Belt & Oil Change for $1400. The tires were 20 years old, so it needs new ones.
You still might be able to salvage the seats and door panels by using OdoBan Disinfectant with Eucalyptus Disinfectant and give it a good twice over with the scrubbing and then go ahead and stick all of your stuff outdoors in the sun for 4-6 hours so that the ultraviolet rays can further kill off mold, fungi, viral type crap! It's worth while to do so and give it a try! Parts may be hard to come by ie: the seats, door panels, console. The Home Depot has OdoBan for cheap even to the point of buying 2 gallons worth for those hard clean-up chores and it should last you for up to 4 years worth!! OdoBan does exactly what it says that it will do!
Door cards might clean up. Replace carpets and seats as you might have got lucky with the water level hitting anything else. I don't recall much wiring at floor level. Bugger about the megasquirt but should be saveable.
Not sure what type of mould you'd get Eric, but I'd recommend some face covering working in that interior in the first instance. You don't want to breathe that in.
For a heavily modified car like this, at least some insurance companies will allow you, by paying moderately higher premiums, to collect the full value of the car if totaled, and to keep it as well. I can't recall what the generic term is for that option, but I have this arrangement for my Lotus, insured by Hagerty, which they call Cherished Salvage coverage. Because mine has upgraded suspension, a BOE supercharger, and various other mods that would be very expensive, if not impossible to reproduce, if it's totaled, I can strip out all the usable upgraded parts and transfer them over to the replacement car, then sell off or keep everything else as spares. Anyone with a highly modified car should seriously consider this.
Excellent video! I truly appreciate your attention to detail in all your videos but I have to admit I really enjoy watching you work on cars. Keep up the good work!
When doing doors peel up dat plastic as far as possible n leave open after spraying it out ,then use a antibacterial cleaner on inside of doors and clean plastic with it to kill any possible mold and let it dry out real good ,like before u replace door panels before you install em,
I've had a friend of mine have his hurricane-Ian-flooded NA6 buyback denied as well. Do you think it's because of the flood title, or have you seen insurance companies deny buybacks on non flood incidents?
Wholesale and auction prices are rising. It's likely the insurance company is betting that the actual auction price will be significantly higher than their standard estimate. It's not magic.
FYI, RMR-86 is a good mold and mildew surface cleaner. It's what tradesmen use to mold remediate homes. Just remember to wear a hazmat suit and gas mask when using it. It stains everything and not something you want to breathe in.
The surprising thing when my car was written off in a flashed flood was how dry in the interior was . It was in about 3 foot of water floating down the small river which was where a road had been 15 minutes before. But everything mechanical was toast water was in everything. I would not touch one with a ten foot poll. Maybe sell it as a near new painted body.
Make sure you clean and lube any bearings that went under water (like steering column bearings, pedal bushings). If you don't, they'll go bad in short order.
@@danielknepper6884 That a given, with all the water in the exhaust. And with a fast car, you really should get angular contact muffler bearings for the extra precision.
Best vidio iv seen they take the cars all the way apart puttin a drying room they take the wireing out do 100 percent check they go over everything good cars when done
Hopefully it gets a new exhaust too. Never heard of anyone building and boosting a vehicle with stock exhaust. I do exhaust first then build from there. But, not everyone is like me. I get the performance aspect from diameter. 2 1/2 dual or 3in on four and 6 bangers that exit the rear because fumes get you high
Turbo muffler's always worked for me. I don't like loud either. It gets on yer nerves (especially chambered muffler's) and I don't need to signal the cop's every time I get on it from a mile away.
Those speakers are fine. Coming from an audio guy. Worst there would be rust on the speaker frame but they look fine. Those have plastic and rubber cones. Doesn’t look like the water line touch the voice coil.
I would have worn breathing protection for that cleanout. There are mould spores everywhere but the overload from that could be troubling, I think. Also, I didn't see much (if any) of the water you squirted into the sills via the holes in the door aperture come out anywhere.
Great Video. Looks like a decent car, and your research paid off. It’s amazing how quickly the Midwest ruins cars and trucks with rust. You can do a lot if you don’t have a bunch of rust to deal with. Does the auctions or insurance companies have to disclose what type of flood it was damaged by? Fresh or Salt Water?? Looking forward to the updates. Thanks for the videos.
I can't wait to see what the new carpet looks like, and I'm glad this was an easy fix for you! It's bringing back PTSD from my flood ordeal. I have new door plastic membrane, and my speakers survived, but I haven't been inside the doors to clean them out yet. I have sound deadening to install, so I figured if I find some nice speakers, I will it all at the same time. Should I really be worried about dried mud inside the doors? The day after mine flooded the second time, I cleaned out all the water and flushed out all the mud on the inside, and it was dry as a bone after days of desiccant.
The pinch seam at the bottom of the doors is intended to be the drain path for internal condensation and window run-off. It's also ideal for trapping fine dirt, which traps moisture and any incidental salt and holds it against the steel. For a few years you notice nothing as it breaks through the primer and galvanizing on the inside, then after an above average wet spell you happen to look at the bottom of your door and see multiple heavy rust starts bubbling through the paint.
@@aaronvienot OK, then my plan this spring is to redo the doors, clean inside, and also remove the front fenders and clean inside there too. I'll do it when I remove my hard top for the season, clean my drains, and condition my canvas top. Gives me an excuse to install my Frog Arms!
While back a friend of mine had his car not totaled but impounded by the police, forget why but at the time he couldn't pay to get it back, eventually it went up on sheriff auction, which his mom went and bought it back at a fraction of what he owed and gave it back to him
I feel horrible for Jason the previous owner, 6 speed, lsd, built motor, turbo kit, suspension, wheels, the dream miata build and couldn't buy it back or afford to pay the auction price, there is no way he got back what was put into that amazing machine, labor alone, I felt worse and worse the more I watched and saw how nice that car is. I pour one out for you Jason and your bad luck, may your next one be more lucky!
He wasn't smart though. Why would he file a claim?
@@ericdolby1622 so hes actually my father...we had a huge storm and the owner of the warehouse he had it stored in didnt contact anyone about anything and we just couldnt afford it due to us being a military family. We got a Lexus in placement for it
Why??
He had the opportunity to buy it from Eric, for his cost.
He didn’t wanna.
It’s not bad luck, it’s bad choices.
Chill bro @@metalted6128
15:20 as a audio guy. the speaker is fine. it's a plastic woofer. most stock car audio is using a paper woofer. so this might be reusable. it's not been high enough to go into the voice coil to affect it.. i suggest just gently cleaning the front and rear side. give them a quick test. if they don't crackle at reasonable volume. toss them back in. they don't look too bad. though they're not that high end.
Sometimes I think I want to take on a car project. Then I watch an episode here and think…. Nah. I’ll just watch Eric do the work.
Don’t forget to check the diff and transmission oil for water also the cv boots and steering rack.
Also get some mould spray and clean all the interior surfaces and head liner.
Just make the whole engine out of the wristpin - indestructible
may the wristpin guide us
The viper teardown disagrees
@@MrPruske he was not the chosen one
Wouldn't hurt to spray some wax in the doors and rockers after they dry out, and put dielectric grease on all the connectors. Body cavity wax, you can buy in spray cans and they have long tubes to reach into the body panels. Both will reduce the possibility of residual moisture causing rust.
Totally agree. It's a novelty for me to see a NA that isn't horribly rusty.
@@ferrumignis I live in MI and I wouldn't say clean NAs are super rare, it really helps they're kind of a summer car and the daily driven ones have fully rotted away by now
That said I have the woolwax gun and use it faithfully on my NA
Wish I'd done cavity wax on my NC :(
@@ferrumignis come to Australia. Cars don't rust here as most places are hot and dry. I have a 2001 NB with absolutely zero rust and 265,000 Kms on it.
@@Spookieham oh yeah I'll just move to the land of death. Angry vegetarian bears, kick boxing rats bigger than a human, and spiders the size of dinner plates. I'm in the airport right now.
FYI love Australians hate their wildlife. I am not ashamed to call myself a little bitch. I don't want to ever come face to face with a bird eating spider no fucking thanks mate. I am perfectly fine with my tiny spiders like red backs as you call them, tarantulas that are barely palm size but rare to live long enough to get that size because of birds eating them and my rattle snakes. I live in California USA. The people are more likely to be dangerous you don't even see the dangerous animals in the suburbs or city's.
I really enjoy your "non-teardown" videos just as much as the teardowns. This car is a great save, and I feel really bad for your friend who lost it. Glad it got into your hands and that he can see it be repaired!
Got to wonder WHY flooded cars (fresh water) are often NOT left open to dry out. Even complex electronics that get wet in fresh water can often be saved by thoroughly washing with CLEAN water followed by a thorough rinse with distilled water. I have seen a hand held two way radio survive after cleaning having been over 24 hours under water turned on! Even salt water damage can be saved like that IF done quickly AND preferably if the item was not powered on when immersed. Always worth a try!
It would be very interesting to see how you cleaned that module with the ultrasonic cleaner. I would watch that video, probably more than once.
The “secret” is that you can happily wash a circuit board with detergent and water as long as it’s not powered and you rinse and dry it carefully afterwards.
Wow that is a shame for Jason 😞 I'm not a Miata guy but that seems like he had a LOT invested in that car. Hats off to you for bringing it back & giving him a chance to get a better payback...
Just a handy little tip: to easily remove the manual window crank clips, slide a shop towel in behind the crank so it snags the clip and alternate pulling down on each side of the towel like milking a cow and the clip will pop right out!
Neat idea!
Ive actually found that using a sock works better than a towel, as the clip just pokes through the sock and gets looped in, GREATLY reducing the Christmas bells of that clip bouncing off everything metal in the garage before going to Narnia
Thanks, gotta do one soon.
For future reference, if you're trying to dry something out, go rent an LGR dehumidifier. LGR stands for low grain refrigerant. Without getting too technical, it will pull more moisture out of the air. It's what we use when we dry flooded houses
Bonus video!
Was wondering when flood vehicles would make their way to his shop...
Great video! A few thoughts, keep working on the drying out process. I know because my 2019 pickup leaked from the day I bought it. The headliner filled to the top with rain and melting snow water. The dealer commented (with a smile) that it stunk up the whole building when they pulled out the carpets and seats. About three months later I got it back, they replaced the whole interior except the front seats.
Happy ending - the truck smells like new again.
Get some Deoxit and spray it in every single connector, even once above the water line has the humidity in the car may still cause corrosion. Then get some body cavity wax and start spraying everywhere you possibly can get the nozzle in.
The name of the mystery Insurer is right on the windshield. I'm a customer of said Insurer as well, and have been for just about 15 years. They absolutely WILL NOT allow you to buy back "totalled" cars. In my case, years ago, I had an über rare SVT Focus EAP Model which was totalled when some numbnuts ran a Stop sign, smashing the drivers side hard enough to where they separated/cracked the frame. I could've made a ridiculous amount of money, just parting it out for Model specific parts (e.g. Recaro seats, HIDs, etc). Once they wrote the car off? Buzz off, seemed to be their opinion on the matter. Thank your Buddy for his Service. You got a Deal!
Very well done! It’s really great that you are saving this one.
I've rebuilt several flood cars. The mold and the carpet and seats are the worst part. I normally just trash them. the rest isn't that bad. and I've done salt water floods. Wiring has to go on those. Fresh water or salt. Washing out body cavities and underneath is a good practice for stopping rust. Great job Eric!
To kill noise in Miata, use DynaPad three layer by Dynamat maker to get rid of noise. Get Hemholtz pipe from Goodwin Racing to get rid of boomy exhaust low frequency noise. You will hear only nice tones.
Moral of the story: if the flood damage is not to bad, don't file a claim. Just fix it yourself.
Usually after big floods insurance companies will just write off anything in a building that was flooded as long as it was below the water line. At least that’s the way it is with hurricanes.
A vehicle that gets damaged and subsequently repaired without going through insurance, will likely not be branded.
True for any sort of damage on a car with a low KBB/Carfax value
Depends on what they're willing to give ya for the vehicle
No way!
Drove one of those at the auction yesterday , I'm 6' and weigh 300 ( it was " fun " getting in and out )
after 37 years of fixing cars I dont have the patience or time to do project cars anymore . dont know how you do it but good for you
If you have one, or can borrow / rent one, I’d recommend running an ozone generator in the interior to stop the progress of the mold growth. It won’t clear the mold, but it will kill what’s there and also should help eliminate the smell.
As others have suggested if you intend to resume the interior, it will likely take a lot of scrubbing with disinfectant, maybe hydrogen peroxide. I’m gonna guess the hard-touch surfaces could be done this way, but the soft materials might be better off being chucked and replaced (actually I just got to the part where you cut the carpet 😅).
Headrest speakers was the third upgrade that I did to a stock 10-year-old 1990 Miata.
The first two were tires and rims.
Use dehumidifier AND space heater together. Heat brings out moisture.
First gen Miatas were great. Handling, economical, tons of OEM and aftermarket parts out there, cute and reliable Even stock they are fast enough to get you in trouble.
I particularly like the older Mazda Miata that had the rear engine configuration. Talk about a Miata that was an
absolute little badass and a wild child for sure! If I didn't know any better, your engine is starving for oil!!
Congrats Eric, you got yourself one heck of a bargain, that’s a lot of vehicle for the money. And no major damage! Great job and nice car.
0:37 ~ I'm in. Generally I'll avoid anything with that on the title. I bought a 88' Turbo Shadow in 91' with (apx) the same flood height and so on as the rig you're showing here. It turned out to be one of the most cost effective and fun car I'd ever own. In 91' it was an absolute barnstormer of weight and hp.
Super cool, video!!
I’ve been buying auction vehicles for the wife and I,
For many years.
Yes a lot of work, but never!!!
Lost money on any!!
Really gotta pick the right ones, and did I mention???
Yes a lot of work, and patience, to make them right.
Great video, great job!!
Miata valve noise magic fix - Castrol Magnatec. I have no idea why, lots of people suggested it and wow it worked on mine. I ran 8 & 12 PSI (switchable) for years on stock internals. If you have a built motor and a good safe tune you should be good with 16+ PSI (220 RWHP) . 12 PSI on stock is very common. I'm in New Zealand so we call them MX5's. Good luck. Fun cars. Mine was an 1800 NB JDM and the computer was in the footwell. Both the 1600 and 1800 JDM are there, but proneto flooding.
Is the insurance company that denied the buy-back option the one written on the windshield?
After seeing USAA on the windshield and hearing the story in the beginning... not surprised.
Another great "little" project! It's pretty clean considering the flood water. Rust not-withstanding, I'd make sure to remove all traces of mold with some sort of disinfection.
I've watched several of your videos and I have questions about some of your tools. Can you do a short video about your coordless and air-operated wrenches? I don't do a lot of mechanical work, but a lot of your tools could make life a lot easier. Thanks
Put 4oz. of seafoam in the oil when you are ready to drive it. It will free up the lifters and loosen any sludge. The change the oil after a 100-200 miles, I do this to my vehicles just before an oil change (50-100 Miles). My MINI N18 has a pretty big oil fill cap. You can easily see top top of the head casting looks brand new. Same with my Tacoma that has 160,000.
A bit of advise for working on old smelly or wet/flooded cars, get and Ozone generator. Ozone not only removes smells, it will kill mold and mildew. They are cheap too. 45 min and then airing it out can do wonders.
watching this made me want another MX5!
such easy cars to work on
Makes me miss my old NA. Pulling the dash and heater core to get the carpet out in one piece isn't too hard. I did it in an afternoon and I had never done it before. My Mazda2 suffered a similar inundation when the local creek rose very sharply over night. Thankfully also a fairly simple car to pull out the seats and carpet to dry in the sun the next day. I did soak all the electrical connectors that got wet with a lot of wd40 as well. 6 years later, that car is still serving me well.
Moss Miata will have all your OE fit replacement parts, including quality soft top with glass and no zippers
I like when you have "bad ideas" as that means we get to see them. Keep up the great work Eric
I'm love what you did to bring that back to life! Cheers to you for keeping that girl alive man.
I had to do similar on my DC5 when after letting the car sit for a summer. Leaves got in the frame behind the fender, rotted away some seam sealer, water got through down to the floor and left mold and a nasty rust hole in the floor. I literally did everything you do in this video, tore the interior out, power washed and scrubbed the floor. Got lucky carpet wasnt too bad and used some non-bleach mold killer spray from walmart and it never came back. Now to fix the damn rust hole lol. Thanks for another great video.
The airbag delete would prevent registering that car in my state. (if you get selected for the state police inspection during registration, it's like 1 out of 10 rebuilds).
The insurance was USAA😎. I don’t get it because my mechanic bought his flood car back from usaa without an issue. But that was 4 years ago and maybe they’ve changed or it was the severity of the flood.
If I recall the most we ever dyno'd WHP on a NB was 310. We upgraded all the NA's from the 1.6 but for some reason they never would produce the horsepower the NB's did. 6 of us took a road trip from central KY to VIR back in the day and ran the long course. It was hilarious when the Porsche guys on the track had to move over to let us by. These cars were so simple to to work on and Soooo cheap to get engines for. A great friend of mine is the owner of Paco Motorsports. He sells a kit that makes a Miata off road vehicle.
It’s really good to see this great little Miata getting the TLC it deserves. It’s got lots of life left in it… and personally, I’d like to see it go back to Jason, if that’s workable. I’ve put lots of work into my MG, so I can sympathize.
Great mix up of videos to show instead of engine tear downs all the time
I love how there is a biohazard sticker on the window. Very cool video man. Megasquirt is awesome.
My friend had one. Man I really enjoyed driving it.
"...the auction, which is where I get most of my bad ideas..." God that's a mood
Insurance company name is wrote on the windshield. Copart does that sometimes.
I restored a "flooded" Chevy Cruze Diesel, though there was no scum line. I suspect someone left a window rolled down in a rain storm. Anyway, after setting for who knows how long at the auction, it was much like the Miata. The body control module sat on the floorboard and had corroded to uselessness. (Dealing with dealerships is a diatribe for another time.) But instead of replacing interior parts, I wiped down the seats with vinegar, which killed the mold, completely pulled the carpet, soaked it in Lysol solution, and let it set outside for a month to dry. (Some parts of the foam carpet backing were 4 inches thick.)
There's also powerful ozone generators used to sanitize hotel rooms that works a treat deodorizing and killing mold in cars. I built mine from an ebay module, fan and homemade case.
Looking forward to seeing the finished project.
On your plug connections use a little quick dry contact cleaner to remove any water.
@3:32 "I'm not gonna name the insurance company." It says USAA on the windshield. Owner should have insured with a named value policy thru a collector car agency such as Hagerty, Grundy, American Collectors, etc. etc.
I personally would love to own this car. Waiting for the finished project. Maybe I could figure out a way to buy it.
I"ve had a car totalled and the buyback was more than the check. Integras are worth a LOT more as parts than as a running, driving, vehicle. I fought tooth and nail, but it they were unbending.
cool ride sir! great call resurrecting it, didn’t look bad at all can’t wait to see it on the road again
Enjoying these teardown on one end; saving them on the other videos.
Slow mo on the jump made me want to be a dad tomorrow. I love your videos and editing style Eric. Hope the new addition to the family is going fantastic.
Thanks
I'm sure it was mentioned already, but check and/or replace the wheel bearings. Seeing as how they were under water, there may be some issues there.
A nice stud welder may have been perfect for mounting the squirter behind the seat. If you decide to move it, just grind off the weld.
FYI: A couple insurance companies will not give buy-back option to vehicles marked biohazard, for liability reasons. They will only sell them at a dealer only auctions.
Lucky to have the space to work on these rides
I Do Cars does Math: "When you add one project car to the amount of project cars I currently have, percentage-wise, it's not a big number."
Also, I Do Cars: "It's fine."
It is a great deal, fresh water flood is nothing compared to salt water, and it wasn’t driving through the water, when they are driving through the water and it happens that’s when it’s really bad.
Hey Eric, there's another channel here on RUclips I'm subscribed to that's in the Chicago area and he would probably use cavity wax in the rocker panels and in that area in the lower front fenders prone to holding debris in them to prevent rust. You might want to consider doing that on your Miata.
Sounds like a good running engine to me, I’d be tempted to keep it only because of all the good bits on it. 👍
Hoovies Garage has a TV Show on Velocity, called Car Issues. He bought a white 1st Gen Mazda Miata w/ 27K miles. He paid $11,000. It was in Mint Condition.
The Wizard (mechanic) replaced the Timing Belt & Oil Change for $1400. The tires were 20 years old, so it needs new ones.
You still might be able to salvage the seats and door panels by using OdoBan Disinfectant with Eucalyptus
Disinfectant and give it a good twice over with the scrubbing and then go ahead and stick all of your stuff
outdoors in the sun for 4-6 hours so that the ultraviolet rays can further kill off mold, fungi, viral type crap!
It's worth while to do so and give it a try! Parts may be hard to come by ie: the seats, door panels, console.
The Home Depot has OdoBan for cheap even to the point of buying 2 gallons worth for those hard clean-up
chores and it should last you for up to 4 years worth!! OdoBan does exactly what it says that it will do!
Door cards might clean up. Replace carpets and seats as you might have got lucky with the water level hitting anything else. I don't recall much wiring at floor level. Bugger about the megasquirt but should be saveable.
Not sure what type of mould you'd get Eric, but I'd recommend some face covering working in that interior in the first instance. You don't want to breathe that in.
A Wednesday treat, thanks
For a heavily modified car like this, at least some insurance companies will allow you, by paying moderately higher premiums, to collect the full value of the car if totaled, and to keep it as well. I can't recall what the generic term is for that option, but I have this arrangement for my Lotus, insured by Hagerty, which they call Cherished Salvage coverage.
Because mine has upgraded suspension, a BOE supercharger, and various other mods that would be very expensive, if not impossible to reproduce, if it's totaled, I can strip out all the usable upgraded parts and transfer them over to the replacement car, then sell off or keep everything else as spares.
Anyone with a highly modified car should seriously consider this.
Excellent video! I truly appreciate your attention to detail in all your videos but I have to admit I really enjoy watching you work on cars. Keep up the good work!
When doing doors peel up dat plastic as far as possible n leave open after spraying it out ,then use a antibacterial cleaner on inside of doors and clean plastic with it to kill any possible mold and let it dry out real good ,like before u replace door panels before you install em,
Thanks for making it clear what gets kept and what is trash. 😀
I've had a friend of mine have his hurricane-Ian-flooded NA6 buyback denied as well. Do you think it's because of the flood title, or have you seen insurance companies deny buybacks on non flood incidents?
Wholesale and auction prices are rising. It's likely the insurance company is betting that the actual auction price will be significantly higher than their standard estimate. It's not magic.
FYI, RMR-86 is a good mold and mildew surface cleaner. It's what tradesmen use to mold remediate homes. Just remember to wear a hazmat suit and gas mask when using it. It stains everything and not something you want to breathe in.
The surprising thing when my car was written off in a flashed flood was how dry in the interior was . It was in about 3 foot of water floating down the small river which was where a road had been 15 minutes before.
But everything mechanical was toast water was in everything. I would not touch one with a ten foot poll. Maybe sell it as a near new painted body.
Make sure you clean and lube any bearings that went under water (like steering column bearings, pedal bushings). If you don't, they'll go bad in short order.
Especially the muffler bearing. I guarantee that one is shot.
@@danielknepper6884 That a given, with all the water in the exhaust. And with a fast car, you really should get angular contact muffler bearings for the extra precision.
Best vidio iv seen they take the cars all the way apart puttin a drying room they take the wireing out do 100 percent check they go over everything good cars when done
Hopefully it gets a new exhaust too. Never heard of anyone building and boosting a vehicle with stock exhaust. I do exhaust first then build from there. But, not everyone is like me. I get the performance aspect from diameter. 2 1/2 dual or 3in on four and 6 bangers that exit the rear because fumes get you high
A lot of us keep stock exhausts. Don't want the noise of aftermarket ones.
Turbo muffler's always worked for me. I don't like loud either. It gets on yer nerves (especially chambered muffler's) and I don't need to signal the cop's every time I get on it from a mile away.
The condition of the floor boards, looks like you might have a good one there.
Should be a fun car 2 drive. Drove a supercharged one. Yikes! A go cart for the highway.
Eric these kinds of car videos are fantastic for midweek Thanks Buddy😊
The NA Miata. A car So Good they don't even make 'em like that anymore.
Those speakers are fine. Coming from an audio guy. Worst there would be rust on the speaker frame but they look fine. Those have plastic and rubber cones. Doesn’t look like the water line touch the voice coil.
I love watching your videos. The teardown videos make me check my oil way too often, Don't want to see my engine on your channel one day.
I waited, and I was rewarded.
I would have worn breathing protection for that cleanout. There are mould spores everywhere but the overload from that could be troubling, I think. Also, I didn't see much (if any) of the water you squirted into the sills via the holes in the door aperture come out anywhere.
Great Video. Looks like a decent car, and your research paid off. It’s amazing how quickly the Midwest ruins cars and trucks with rust. You can do a lot if you don’t have a bunch of rust to deal with. Does the auctions or insurance companies have to disclose what type of flood it was damaged by? Fresh or Salt Water?? Looking forward to the updates. Thanks for the videos.
I can't wait to see what the new carpet looks like, and I'm glad this was an easy fix for you! It's bringing back PTSD from my flood ordeal. I have new door plastic membrane, and my speakers survived, but I haven't been inside the doors to clean them out yet. I have sound deadening to install, so I figured if I find some nice speakers, I will it all at the same time. Should I really be worried about dried mud inside the doors? The day after mine flooded the second time, I cleaned out all the water and flushed out all the mud on the inside, and it was dry as a bone after days of desiccant.
The pinch seam at the bottom of the doors is intended to be the drain path for internal condensation and window run-off. It's also ideal for trapping fine dirt, which traps moisture and any incidental salt and holds it against the steel. For a few years you notice nothing as it breaks through the primer and galvanizing on the inside, then after an above average wet spell you happen to look at the bottom of your door and see multiple heavy rust starts bubbling through the paint.
@@aaronvienot OK, then my plan this spring is to redo the doors, clean inside, and also remove the front fenders and clean inside there too. I'll do it when I remove my hard top for the season, clean my drains, and condition my canvas top. Gives me an excuse to install my Frog Arms!
While back a friend of mine had his car not totaled but impounded by the police, forget why but at the time he couldn't pay to get it back, eventually it went up on sheriff auction, which his mom went and bought it back at a fraction of what he owed and gave it back to him
Don’t forget about the diff vent. Don’t want to blow out the Axel seals
I used to have a 1979 Impala and needed to replace a window handle clip. Might have some still.
Perfect candidate to become an LS Miata!
Very interesting. Always wondered how you would go about properly dealing with water intrusion into a car.
Keep up the great work! Loving the fantastic content!