I have an all original 1.6 with 339k miles and still going strong with no smoke or lifter tick. Been using full synthetic every 3k. Rock solid motors the BP series.
The fact that the rods did not just come flying out of it is a testament to Mazda's design and choice to use larger rod bolts. Once the bearings go, the hammering just trashes the bolts and causes them to fatigue and snap, putting nice scenic view windows in the block.
This engine was severely overheated---the scuffing on the piston skirts is testament to that. Whoever owned that car deserves the Darwin award, because the Miata 1.6/1.8 are some of the most bulletproof engines of all time
The classic “piston rebored cylinders” 😂 tbh whoever overheats any engine to the point of destruction deserves a Darwin Award, a coolant gauge in the red is a massive signal you should pull over and call a tow truck
@@aidanbrooks771 don’t forget that the NA/NB coolant temp gauge is notoriously useless. From about 160 to 225 deg F the needle will stay in the same spot making you think everything is hunky dory. If the needle starts to move up above normal it’s probably already too late and the engine is overheating.
Here to find out what I probably did to blow my engine 😂 regarding the gauge being in the red-neither the oil pressure gauge nor the temp gauge ever changed/always read normal on mine. Of course now realizing they probably weren’t functional but 😅
The engine definitely was not overheated 🤡 mans can’t even see the engine and person and is taking guesses please just do your research before making that type of comment
So much time, effort, and money to make this engine look like it goes fast but can't be bothered to spend the $50 on an oil change every couple months. Pure genius.
I’ve been waiting for a bp teardown! These motors are incredible if they’re taken care of, my boosted 1.6 has been running on 20psi and e50 for almost a year now and it’s still going strong. I’m very religious on maintenance and letting the engine warm up but once it’s up to temp I thrash the thing and it just keeps coming back for more😂
Ditto my supercharged Dodge Charger 3.6. It has almost 600 hp to the flywheel and it's into it's 2nd year and about 8,000 miles on 93. Not a hiccup. I don't thrash it however, but I did smoke a Hellcat with it. He had no idea what I was.
I had a 1.8L 2000 for 8 years, most of that with a centrifugal supercharger on it, 15PSI and 235 wheel horsepower. These engines are awesome, I've heard of one 1.6 engine making around 300 whp. Miatas are the most fun you can have with your clothes on.
dude thats awesome. My dad was also a mazda master tech! I remember being a kid going through the showroom and looking at the old school mazdas. Its actually what made me fall in love with the last generation rx7. I remember it looking like a space ship compared to the 90s proteges, 626s and old b trucks. Cool man, & very relatable.
@@6Sparx9 this is my third Miata and fifth in the family. Probably going to hold onto this until summer and sell it to get the new GR Corolla that’s coming out.
Your review of common rust spots to look out for on Miatas was the first video I found you on. Came for the Miatas, stayed for the engine tear downs. I can see where you would do good business on Miata parts. Great cheap first cars for young guys to learn to work on. Simple, robust, and easy to get parts for.
One of the most enjoyable edits I could possibly see would be the cracking loose of a series of bolts. It's such a satisfying feeling/sound when they crack loose. ASMR for old people.
lol my first engine teardown was a blown 1.6 from my 92 miata. I blew 4 holes in the engine, 2 in the oil pan and 2 through the block with my #2 connecting rod delete engine had exactly 289,122 miles on it. ran pretty good until I took it drifting in the mountains I have yet to sell the parts tho, they need to be cleaned up and I've been lazy
Its also very possible that someone who did take care of the engine owned it for a while and did all the mods and work on it, then the next owner is the one that let it go to waste. That makes the most sense to me anyway.
As soon as I saw how tight the plugs were, I though "wait till he gets to that Fram filter with the "enhanced grip for his pleasure" that just screams overtightened"... If it isn't, I'll be surprised, but I haven't gotten that far yet.
I have a 1996 Mazda 626 with the 2.0 4 cyl. It has 334,700 miles on it and still runs great, doesn't burn a drop of oil between 5,000 mile oil changes. My dad gave it to me and my family about 5 years ago, he got it from the original owners. The outside is on ok shape, some dents, a little rust, the interior is nearly perfect, normal wear and tear but you can hardly tell it has that many miles on it. I plan on keeping it and seeing just how many miles I can get out of it. Great little car with a great little motor in it.
The screws for the oil pump plate are almost certainly JIS and not Phillips. A Phillips bit can usually work with some care, but a set of JIS bits would be a good investment for someone who tears down engines every week.
@@agenericaccount3935 he gave a whole speech about him working on those engines in the beginning.. you wouldve thought he would have set the bits aside as prior to recording and breaking down the engine.
Almost certainly JIS. For those that don't know, there is always a DOT on the head of a JIS screw/bolt in the solid area next to the X where the bit slides in.
This is my newest favorite channel on You Tube. I really enjoy seeing the carnage on your engine teardowns. I've been an auto mechanic all my life and have seen all of this before. Keep up the good work.
I had one of these engines in a Mercury Tracer LTS and it was marvelous. So much smoother and more powerful than Ford's 1.9L SEFI (or CVH) engine. If it hadn't been my brother's high school car, it probably wouldn't have been burning oil quite so badly, but it lasted nearly 300,000 miles with only regular maintenance and a couple timing belts.
I have an original BP-4W 1.8l in my '00 Miata, with somewhere around 200,700 miles on it. Runs just as well now as it did when I bought the car with 158k. What a great little engine. It burns some oil, and has some signs of burnt valves but it still runs pretty decently all things considered. I give it oil changes with synthetic every 3k and it's done well for me. Never had to take the engine apart. As long as a BP has oil and doesn't get overheated too bad it'll be fine.
they are more durable than most people believe.a friend had a 96.never serviced it & ran the piss out of it.he accidently added a quart of ATF instead of oil at 280k & kept driving.#4 rings broke, no compression.he then drove it on 3 cylinders till it finally died at 308k miles.getting over 300k on a constantly abused engine is very impressive.only god knows how far one would go if properly maintained & not abused.the mazda engineers really did their homework when they designed this motor.
In high school I had a 1991 Ford Escort Gt,that was bullet proof .That 1.8 Mazda engine had all the turbo parts left on it just no turbo until I got done with it. It was so easy to make alot of power.Never had any problems out of the engine even after I had it boosted ,on stock internals.I had over 200,000 very hard weekend racing miles on that car when it got totaled. Never a problem engine wise.I miss that car..The only thing I did was change the oil every 3000 miles with dino oil..
I appreciate you doing this as it gives me the big picture of the engine, versus a timing belt change or installing a starter, etc. That big picture view gives me greater confidence in taking on harder projects since I understand the engine better due to your videos. I have a 2007 Mini Cooper - may need a timing chain service AND a Turbo (and cat)... not sure if that one is financially totaled.. will see. Also a 1990 Miata which we have setup for AutoX and seriously looking at power upgrades.... Engine seems solid at 155K, and considering the supercharger for AutoX... and this video makes me more comfortable in taking that on. Thanks and best of luck!
Those style cylinder heads from Japan often have scored cam journals. The babbit material is not a serviceable bearing. That style meaning DOHC with shim and bucket. VVT isn't relevant to the problem.
i blew piston #2 in half and cracked #3 due to detonation a few months ago on my BP. It still ran and even idled but had a ton of blowby. This video reminded me of how fun it was to tear into it and see what went wrong
I've never worked on one of those, but I helped a buddy rebuild his 1993 (i think) 1.6L Miata. So easy. There's so much room for activities. Hardest part was removing enough accessories to get at the timing cover. I forget the exact mileage as this was back in 2009 or 2010, but the original engine had over 150k on it and still ran, but he wanted to run a supercharger and so we spent a weekend tearing it all down. He had the head sent out to a machine shop, but it had a crack and ended up being swapped for an aftermarket head and such.
you see that ball thats pressed into the oil passage in the crank, When I worked On twin cam 4 banger Alfa,s they would spilt the plug out and you lost 30 pounds of oil pressure
Like others I have had Miatas (both 1.6 and 1.8) with well over 200k miles on them. I have kept up all maintenance and when I pulled the motors the cylinder walls and bearing looked like new!!!
the crank snouts are good for snapping the the key way and theres goes your valves,, the factory heads have casting slag at the parting lines, which breaks off and ends up in the oil filter if you lucky
VVT wasn't plugged in as he either didn't use it or he has a vvt-tuner installed to control it and took it with him. The cam sensor on the valve cover wasn't used because he's using the older NA cam sensor you see on the rear of the exhaust cam.
have you ever done a K series mazda v6? i have rebuilt a KL 2.5 and a KF 2.0 this year, been in love with theese things for multiple reasons especially the sound they make, but after grenading and putting back together them, i think they are very well engineered and good motors.
Excellent engines. I had a few KLDE's and got a KLZE a few years back. True straight neck, low miles from Japan. Using a Millenia ecu. Tons of fun with mtx. The BP head looks just like a DE head to me. Wondering how much of that "not running right" was the leaky valve cover shorting out the plugs AND causing a vacuum leak.
@@pgtmr2713 i currently run a millenia klde (the square port one with the normal de cams) with some portmatching, headers, intake, ran off of a kl47 ecu in my lantis. It goes like a bat out of hell compared ton the original kfde engine.
@@neubauer.p That is awesome! I love the Lantis/323 F, in teal. I've got a KL47, (OBDI ecu,) around here somewhere. Also a KLG8 from a 626, that's the Ford EEC-V one with wasted spark coil pack. All 4 KL intakes as well. Basically future proofed with some junkyard shopping. I wonder what kind of power you're making 180-190? I'm running the KLL6 ecu 98+ Millenia with an adapter harness, in a 94 Ford Probe GT. Absolutely as savage as 210-215 gets. You should see if you can find a whole KL31 out there. Mine's currently down for a wheel bearing. I'll have it back on the road soon.
@@pgtmr2713 i want to run the KLK1 ecu thats maf as well but obd2. Pretty rare where i live so i guess ill have to get it on ebay or somewhere. The butt dyno says around 170-180hp, but i want to take it to a real dyno in the future, but i need to sort out the ecu first. Also im working on adapting the cruise control from the millenia into the lantis. The main issue is space, if you drop a 10mm socket into the engine bay of the damn thing, it never hits the ground :D
@@neubauer.p I don't think you want a KLK1, it will be the same as a KL47. Maf, with a gray OBDI connector. I don't think they're OBDII at all. I have a KLK1 but unfortunately it's the one I decided to disassemble. I chose that one to open up since there was almost nothing out there on that ecu. I think it's a Xedos 6 (Euro specific 626,) ecu. Beyond that there's nothing else on it. It wasn't even on a compiled list on ProbeTalk as to what it was from. Part of the problem is it's an older style ecu from just before OBDII. So it's unknown whether it acts like an OBDI or OBDII ecu. OBDII ecu's make adjustments to a/f ratio. OBDI VAF ecu's follow a set map, period, based on VAF and throttle. KL47 and KLK1 both have the benefit of a MAF instead of VAF, but, I don't know if they strictly follow a fuel map or if they can adjust like the OBDII ecu's. It might be a waste tracking one down, comparing wiring to the KL47, making it work for 0 benefit. Whereas, 98+ Millenia ecu, is a known quantity, tested, dyno-ed 10-12 hp tq. One guy even turbo-ed without tune to 12 psi, I believe he said 8 psi would be much safer limit. Not sure if he used different injectors or what.
Great video gives me a good idea on how the inside of my 1992 miata's engine must look like. Yes mine is a 1.6 so not the exact same engine but very close overall. But I know mine is way cleaner than that inside. Mine only has 170k miles so barely broken in. Looks like that 1.8 had a blown head gasket as well which would explain some of the smoking and the fact that the pistons looked steam cleaned. I would like to see a teardown on either a miata 1.6 or a 2004-2006 colorado/canyon 2.8 4 cylinder engine.
Absolutely love these engine teardowns :) Please post someday a teardown of a Mitsubishi 6G72TT engine, if of course you can find one and it is of interest.
Ive never been around the BG engine, the B6 and the B6T on the other hand, plenty. As ive owned many 323 turbos, some of the failures ive come across. The most common one on the short nose, the good old worn keyway. Also seen oil starvation, car had one lady owner from new, 66k on the clock, guessing it was caused by infrequent oil changes. The bottom oil feed was blocked, resulting in no oil up top, exhaust cam seized, and the pulley snapped off the end. Thrust washer failure, found them in the sump all mangled up, crank and block had worn each other out. Excessive smoke caused by worn rings, done a few headgaskets over the years on them, will only use Payen ones now, as i found they are the best, wouldnt bother with cheapo ones. The current engine in my 323 came out of an MX5. Long nose crank, paid 99p for it off ebay, local, nobody else bid on it. Rebuilt it in my shed, fitted B6T rods as they're thicker, and adapted the engine, as there are slight differences, nothing major. Ive done around 15000 miles on it since, been sweet as.
I am building an MX3 BPT swap. Just scoped the engine and number 4 looks terrible. I am going to take it to a machine shop and see if they can do something with it. If they can I am putting in new bearings with CP pistons and Manley rods. Gonna find a NB head for it and rebuild that. Looking for a reliable 250 to 300 hp range. I really look forward to this build.
You should get one of those vacuum attachments that work on compressed air. I nearly jumped out of my chair when you blew out the sparkplug wells with your air gun tip.
I never use foam filters for that reason: they get gummy and/or break down to the point where they're not filtering anything anymore and worse case end up with chunks of it sucked into the engine. If I want an aftermarket filter I usually go with a K&N.
I'm thinking this is what I'm about to find when I tear apart my 91 Escort GT engine next week. Luckily I have a spare so between the two, hopefully I'll get my baby to pur again.
Oil pan ingredients: Sparkles (from fortified bearings with vitamin C) and lots of sludge from lack of maintenance (Fram oil filter and onions...extra) LOL!
Have you ever pulled apart a Toyota K motor? Like from a 70s Corolla? They also have oversized rod and main hardware like this. It's like half a V8. Those were the first motors I ever worked on and everything else looks weak and small by comparison, until now anyway.
Great engines the B6 and BP. I still have a B6 sitting under the house that I swapped out of my 93 NA. Its replacement was still going strong after 10 years of being flogged mercilessly and with at least 150 thousand miles on it, even after it lost coolant twice due to a stuck thermostat and a blown water pump. All it got was regular oil changes with dinosaur oil. It would have easily outlasted the rest of the car.
I have an all original 1.6 with 339k miles and still going strong with no smoke or lifter tick. Been using full synthetic every 3k. Rock solid motors the BP series.
i can’t get my lifter tick to stay away even after swapping lifters to a set of kia lifters
tell me that's a short nose
Yep, clean oil is the key yet, so widely neglected.
@@Stiddo It all depends on the oil you use also, i found shell Helix 10/40w keeps mine quiet longer than some other oils.
@@Glenn7719 I use Rotella T6 5w40, which people have conflicting opinions on. Totally eliminated lifter tick
Always amazed at how long an engine last when you consider what it actually goes through
True. But when you have warm good oil in theory nothing wears out.
I have had a 97 yata for 12 years and always get metal chunks in the drained oil I change every 1000 miles. Been running great the whole time!
The fact that the rods did not just come flying out of it is a testament to Mazda's design and choice to use larger rod bolts. Once the bearings go, the hammering just trashes the bolts and causes them to fatigue and snap, putting nice scenic view windows in the block.
There’s nothing more satisfying than the sound of him cracking the cam caps or the head bolts loose.
This engine was severely overheated---the scuffing on the piston skirts is testament to that. Whoever owned that car deserves the Darwin award, because the Miata 1.6/1.8 are some of the most bulletproof engines of all time
The classic “piston rebored cylinders” 😂 tbh whoever overheats any engine to the point of destruction deserves a Darwin Award, a coolant gauge in the red is a massive signal you should pull over and call a tow truck
@@aidanbrooks771 don’t forget that the NA/NB coolant temp gauge is notoriously useless. From about 160 to 225 deg F the needle will stay in the same spot making you think everything is hunky dory. If the needle starts to move up above normal it’s probably already too late and the engine is overheating.
@@aidanbrooks771 to be fair if it was a massive leak at high rpm the sensor will not read high because there is no coolant for the sensor
Here to find out what I probably did to blow my engine 😂 regarding the gauge being in the red-neither the oil pressure gauge nor the temp gauge ever changed/always read normal on mine. Of course now realizing they probably weren’t functional but 😅
The engine definitely was not overheated 🤡 mans can’t even see the engine and person and is taking guesses please just do your research before making that type of comment
So much time, effort, and money to make this engine look like it goes fast but can't be bothered to spend the $50 on an oil change every couple months. Pure genius.
I’ve been waiting for a bp teardown! These motors are incredible if they’re taken care of, my boosted 1.6 has been running on 20psi and e50 for almost a year now and it’s still going strong. I’m very religious on maintenance and letting the engine warm up but once it’s up to temp I thrash the thing and it just keeps coming back for more😂
Same I’ve been waiting forever for a BP tear down! I’m in the process of fixing up a 1.6 hopefully I’ll be able to turbo it next year
Agree! I have been shoving 15 psi down my '92 1.6 for 10 years. I am not kind to it and it does not burn oil. Maintenance is the key!
Ditto my supercharged Dodge Charger 3.6. It has almost 600 hp to the flywheel and it's into it's 2nd year and about 8,000 miles on 93. Not a hiccup. I don't thrash it however, but I did smoke a Hellcat with it. He had no idea what I was.
WhAts your suggestion on stock internals and 91 octane? Can I hold 14 psi?
@@v8_sami 14psi on 91 is easy work with a decent tune, I’ve ran up to 17psi on 91 but that’s kinda pushing it for pump gas.
Love these close up rod cap reveals, its like we're right there watching alongside Eric!
I had a 1.8L 2000 for 8 years, most of that with a centrifugal supercharger on it, 15PSI and 235 wheel horsepower. These engines are awesome, I've heard of one 1.6 engine making around 300 whp. Miatas are the most fun you can have with your clothes on.
I usually watch this while I'm taking a dump. I enjoy it.
Thanks for sharing. Next
Yup
dude thats awesome. My dad was also a mazda master tech! I remember being a kid going through the showroom and looking at the old school mazdas. Its actually what made me fall in love with the last generation rx7. I remember it looking like a space ship compared to the 90s proteges, 626s and old b trucks. Cool man, & very relatable.
The FD Rx7 was a space ship. Still is, really.
Man this is the time to buy Miata’s. Good old days when you could pick one up for less than a grand. Did buy another one turbo for 3k though.
Yada price crazy high these last few years o.o, did it suddenly drop?
@@6Sparx9 winter time no one buys cars specially drop tops. So you can find them relatively cheap
@@v8_sami ye 100% people don't have a place to garage / long term park them. I wish I had my 2000 SE still :
@@6Sparx9 this is my third Miata and fifth in the family. Probably going to hold onto this until summer and sell it to get the new GR Corolla that’s coming out.
BB CNN nbnkn
almost 80k subscribers! way to go! I can't get enough of these teardown vids!!
Thanks buddy!
Your review of common rust spots to look out for on Miatas was the first video I found you on. Came for the Miatas, stayed for the engine tear downs.
I can see where you would do good business on Miata parts. Great cheap first cars for young guys to learn to work on. Simple, robust, and easy to get parts for.
One of the most enjoyable edits I could possibly see would be the cracking loose of a series of bolts. It's such a satisfying feeling/sound when they crack loose. ASMR for old people.
lol my first engine teardown was a blown 1.6 from my 92 miata. I blew 4 holes in the engine, 2 in the oil pan and 2 through the block with my #2 connecting rod delete
engine had exactly 289,122 miles on it. ran pretty good until I took it drifting in the mountains
I have yet to sell the parts tho, they need to be cleaned up and I've been lazy
Once again, top flight job. Had they not used liquid metal motor oil, with the glitter package, they may have seem 300k. Keep them coming!
That poor engine...It’s sad that for having an inordinate amount of heavy engine work (timing, head gasket) that simple maintenance is what killed it.
right, it just p!$$es me off some folks treat wonderful little cars so poorly.
Its also very possible that someone who did take care of the engine owned it for a while and did all the mods and work on it, then the next owner is the one that let it go to waste. That makes the most sense to me anyway.
"Neglect and abuse can kill anything". A lot of truth there...a lot of truth.
As soon as I saw how tight the plugs were, I though "wait till he gets to that Fram filter with the "enhanced grip for his pleasure" that just screams overtightened"... If it isn't, I'll be surprised, but I haven't gotten that far yet.
I have a 1996 Mazda 626 with the 2.0 4 cyl. It has 334,700 miles on it and still runs great, doesn't burn a drop of oil between 5,000 mile oil changes. My dad gave it to me and my family about 5 years ago, he got it from the original owners. The outside is on ok shape, some dents, a little rust, the interior is nearly perfect, normal wear and tear but you can hardly tell it has that many miles on it. I plan on keeping it and seeing just how many miles I can get out of it. Great little car with a great little motor in it.
The screws for the oil pump plate are almost certainly JIS and not Phillips. A Phillips bit can usually work with some care, but a set of JIS bits would be a good investment for someone who tears down engines every week.
Japanese Industrial Standard
that raised some concern as to the work of his shop.. how did he not know that..?
@@gearbanginentertainment7476 perhaps he knew but also knew that a Phillips would do the trick and was closer at hand ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@agenericaccount3935 he gave a whole speech about him working on those engines in the beginning.. you wouldve thought he would have set the bits aside as prior to recording and breaking down the engine.
Almost certainly JIS. For those that don't know, there is always a DOT on the head of a JIS screw/bolt in the solid area next to the X where the bit slides in.
Not a mention of the FRAM Bomb hanging off the side?
What is a Fram bomb? Just a shitty filter?
Yeah it's the Fram filter that caused all the damage.
I have an 02 miata I will keep your business in mind for future parts. Thanks for the BP tear down.
Thank god you called this ome of their best 4 cylinder engines.
Thses engine and cars are fantastic !!!
This is my newest favorite channel on You Tube. I really enjoy seeing the carnage on your engine teardowns. I've been an auto mechanic all my life and have seen all of this before. Keep up the good work.
I had one of these engines in a Mercury Tracer LTS and it was marvelous. So much smoother and more powerful than Ford's 1.9L SEFI (or CVH) engine.
If it hadn't been my brother's high school car, it probably wouldn't have been burning oil quite so badly, but it lasted nearly 300,000 miles with only regular maintenance and a couple timing belts.
I have an original BP-4W 1.8l in my '00 Miata, with somewhere around 200,700 miles on it. Runs just as well now as it did when I bought the car with 158k. What a great little engine. It burns some oil, and has some signs of burnt valves but it still runs pretty decently all things considered. I give it oil changes with synthetic every 3k and it's done well for me. Never had to take the engine apart. As long as a BP has oil and doesn't get overheated too bad it'll be fine.
Well , at least the prior owner kept up on what Eric O called " spark plugs fluid "
they are more durable than most people believe.a friend had a 96.never serviced it & ran the piss out of it.he accidently added a quart of ATF instead of oil at 280k & kept driving.#4 rings broke, no compression.he then drove it on 3 cylinders till it finally died at 308k miles.getting over 300k on a constantly abused engine is very impressive.only god knows how far one would go if properly maintained & not abused.the mazda engineers really did their homework when they designed this motor.
ANY engine can be made to fail. It just takes different degrees of abuse & neglect for some engines.
Yeah, some explode on their own, others take everything you can possibly throw at em!
For Christmas, I want some piston mcnuggets, Reynold's bearing foil, and a connecting rod delete kit.
In high school I had a 1991 Ford Escort Gt,that was bullet proof .That 1.8 Mazda engine had all the turbo parts left on it just no turbo until I got done with it. It was so easy to make alot of power.Never had any problems out of the engine even after I had it boosted ,on stock internals.I had over 200,000 very hard weekend racing miles on that car when it got totaled. Never a problem engine wise.I miss that car..The only thing I did was change the oil every 3000 miles with dino oil..
I am far from being a mechanic, but I find your videos really interesting to watch. Good content.
Fellow NC owner here. LOVE miatas! Great video man!
Would love to see a teardown of a 2.7 Ecoboost or a 5.7 Hemi, both of which are everywhere nowadays. :>
Yeah, I have a 2.7, would love to see a teardown. They're common as dirt...
This looks all too familiar to me. Too soon… too soon.
That Fram oil filter though.
It's so awesome when engines make their own anti-seize.
I appreciate you doing this as it gives me the big picture of the engine, versus a timing belt change or installing a starter, etc. That big picture view gives me greater confidence in taking on harder projects since I understand the engine better due to your videos. I have a 2007 Mini Cooper - may need a timing chain service AND a Turbo (and cat)... not sure if that one is financially totaled.. will see. Also a 1990 Miata which we have setup for AutoX and seriously looking at power upgrades.... Engine seems solid at 155K, and considering the supercharger for AutoX... and this video makes me more comfortable in taking that on. Thanks and best of luck!
reason for a vvt head on the earlier 1.8 block is because it produces more power without having to move away from OEM parts.
I've rebuilt a couple Miata engines and the head gaskets were both MLS.
Orange fram filter tells me all I need to know about that engine.
Loved my Miata (MX-5 in Australia). Had to ditch it when I needed more than two seats in the family. Beautiful beast.
Those style cylinder heads from Japan often have scored cam journals. The babbit material is not a serviceable bearing. That style meaning DOHC with shim and bucket. VVT isn't relevant to the problem.
FINALLY! i was so excited when i saw this thumbnail
i blew piston #2 in half and cracked #3 due to detonation a few months ago on my BP. It still ran and even idled but had a ton of blowby. This video reminded me of how fun it was to tear into it and see what went wrong
I've never worked on one of those, but I helped a buddy rebuild his 1993 (i think) 1.6L Miata. So easy. There's so much room for activities. Hardest part was removing enough accessories to get at the timing cover.
I forget the exact mileage as this was back in 2009 or 2010, but the original engine had over 150k on it and still ran, but he wanted to run a supercharger and so we spent a weekend tearing it all down. He had the head sent out to a machine shop, but it had a crack and ended up being swapped for an aftermarket head and such.
Thank you for the great teardown. It is the old adage when filling up the tank check the oil. 😀🇨🇦
you see that ball thats pressed into the oil passage in the crank, When I worked On twin cam 4 banger Alfa,s they would spilt the plug out and you lost 30 pounds of oil pressure
Your very right Eric. Mazda B engines are fantastic. Too bad they didn't take care of this one.
Like others I have had Miatas (both 1.6 and 1.8) with well over 200k miles on them. I have kept up all maintenance and when I pulled the motors the cylinder walls and bearing looked like new!!!
Amazing video! Can’t wait for you to do the 1.6 long nose and short nose
the crank snouts are good for snapping the the key way and theres goes your valves,, the factory heads have casting slag at the parting lines, which breaks off and ends up in the oil filter if you lucky
Finally! A VVT Miata engine!
But, it isn’t.
Lol
VVT wasn't plugged in as he either didn't use it or he has a vvt-tuner installed to control it and took it with him. The cam sensor on the valve cover wasn't used because he's using the older NA cam sensor you see on the rear of the exhaust cam.
Great video as always. Would like to see a Northstar V8 out of the Cadillac DTS if you run across one
Sparklefest...new word! You are so entertaining as a engine mechanic!
have you ever done a K series mazda v6? i have rebuilt a KL 2.5 and a KF 2.0 this year, been in love with theese things for multiple reasons especially the sound they make, but after grenading and putting back together them, i think they are very well engineered and good motors.
Excellent engines. I had a few KLDE's and got a KLZE a few years back. True straight neck, low miles from Japan. Using a Millenia ecu. Tons of fun with mtx. The BP head looks just like a DE head to me. Wondering how much of that "not running right" was the leaky valve cover shorting out the plugs AND causing a vacuum leak.
@@pgtmr2713 i currently run a millenia klde (the square port one with the normal de cams) with some portmatching, headers, intake, ran off of a kl47 ecu in my lantis. It goes like a bat out of hell compared ton the original kfde engine.
@@neubauer.p That is awesome! I love the Lantis/323 F, in teal. I've got a KL47, (OBDI ecu,) around here somewhere. Also a KLG8 from a 626, that's the Ford EEC-V one with wasted spark coil pack. All 4 KL intakes as well. Basically future proofed with some junkyard shopping. I wonder what kind of power you're making 180-190? I'm running the KLL6 ecu 98+ Millenia with an adapter harness, in a 94 Ford Probe GT. Absolutely as savage as 210-215 gets. You should see if you can find a whole KL31 out there. Mine's currently down for a wheel bearing. I'll have it back on the road soon.
@@pgtmr2713 i want to run the KLK1 ecu thats maf as well but obd2. Pretty rare where i live so i guess ill have to get it on ebay or somewhere. The butt dyno says around 170-180hp, but i want to take it to a real dyno in the future, but i need to sort out the ecu first. Also im working on adapting the cruise control from the millenia into the lantis. The main issue is space, if you drop a 10mm socket into the engine bay of the damn thing, it never hits the ground :D
@@neubauer.p I don't think you want a KLK1, it will be the same as a KL47. Maf, with a gray OBDI connector. I don't think they're OBDII at all. I have a KLK1 but unfortunately it's the one I decided to disassemble. I chose that one to open up since there was almost nothing out there on that ecu. I think it's a Xedos 6 (Euro specific 626,) ecu. Beyond that there's nothing else on it. It wasn't even on a compiled list on ProbeTalk as to what it was from. Part of the problem is it's an older style ecu from just before OBDII. So it's unknown whether it acts like an OBDI or OBDII ecu. OBDII ecu's make adjustments to a/f ratio. OBDI VAF ecu's follow a set map, period, based on VAF and throttle. KL47 and KLK1 both have the benefit of a MAF instead of VAF, but, I don't know if they strictly follow a fuel map or if they can adjust like the OBDII ecu's.
It might be a waste tracking one down, comparing wiring to the KL47, making it work for 0 benefit. Whereas, 98+ Millenia ecu, is a known quantity, tested, dyno-ed 10-12 hp tq. One guy even turbo-ed without tune to 12 psi, I believe he said 8 psi would be much safer limit. Not sure if he used different injectors or what.
Ford escorts GT’s were my favorites
Great video gives me a good idea on how the inside of my 1992 miata's engine must look like. Yes mine is a 1.6 so not the exact same engine but very close overall. But I know mine is way cleaner than that inside. Mine only has 170k miles so barely broken in. Looks like that 1.8 had a blown head gasket as well which would explain some of the smoking and the fact that the pistons looked steam cleaned.
I would like to see a teardown on either a miata 1.6 or a 2004-2006 colorado/canyon 2.8 4 cylinder engine.
Another great video! I love learning about all these different engines!
I just discovered your channel. I have '99 Miata with 180K miles that I've owned since 2004 @ 50K.
Damn. That e34 wagon is beautiful!
I have a 1997 NA Miata, so I’m all ears, and eyes!
i run e3 plugs in my 2001 jeep grand Cherokee and have had no issues with them!!!
I recently did my own 1.8BP engine. Piston oil control rings were buggered. Also did some work on the head replacing stem seals
Grew up driving a 93. My mom still has it. 217k miles. Good reliable girl.
Yeah, that's fine... but what about the Mazda?
Wow, every one of these engines I've ever worked on had a bright aluminum head under the valve cover. Someone's been missing oil changes..
probebly 2017 last
14:12 that head gasket looks like it blocks the water passages? Or is it just me
Absolutely love these engine teardowns :) Please post someday a teardown of a Mitsubishi 6G72TT engine, if of course you can find one and it is of interest.
3000 GT/GTO engine?
@@pgtmr2713 yup
Ive never been around the BG engine, the B6 and the B6T on the other hand, plenty. As ive owned many 323 turbos, some of the failures ive come across. The most common one on the short nose, the good old worn keyway. Also seen oil starvation, car had one lady owner from new, 66k on the clock, guessing it was caused by infrequent oil changes. The bottom oil feed was blocked, resulting in no oil up top, exhaust cam seized, and the pulley snapped off the end. Thrust washer failure, found them in the sump all mangled up, crank and block had worn each other out. Excessive smoke caused by worn rings, done a few headgaskets over the years on them, will only use Payen ones now, as i found they are the best, wouldnt bother with cheapo ones.
The current engine in my 323 came out of an MX5. Long nose crank, paid 99p for it off ebay, local, nobody else bid on it. Rebuilt it in my shed, fitted B6T rods as they're thicker, and adapted the engine, as there are slight differences, nothing major. Ive done around 15000 miles on it since, been sweet as.
Love the new camera angle where you get up close on each rod cap
I'm building a 93 Protege and needed those pistons dammit lol. But hey, how much for the fuel rail? My OEM one got bent by my hoist because I'm dumb..
he does part these out! try to find his business email and hit him up
His email is in the video description
I am building an MX3 BPT swap. Just scoped the engine and number 4 looks terrible. I am going to take it to a machine shop and see if they can do something with it. If they can I am putting in new bearings with CP pistons and Manley rods. Gonna find a NB head for it and rebuild that. Looking for a reliable 250 to 300 hp range. I really look forward to this build.
Excellent close ups! Love ya work - and the Beemer wagon....
back when Im essed with em we used 10 30 wt semi synthetic blends and 10 -40 on a loose engine
The orange filter killed it.😯😂
Why does the speeded up bolt cracking and impact wrench sound so satisfying
Man it's
For me
An epic job AMAZING beyond most people's abilities
You do a nice job on these videos.
Keep up with videos, enjoying them all the way from South Africa even if don't get some of these vehicles and engines here.
I would love to see a teardown of Toyota's 2GR-FE V6. I've seen multiple teardown videos of them but I'd like to see one on your channel.
That's the notorious oil burner, right?
You should get one of those vacuum attachments that work on compressed air. I nearly jumped out of my chair when you blew out the sparkplug wells with your air gun tip.
I never use foam filters for that reason: they get gummy and/or break down to the point where they're not filtering anything anymore and worse case end up with chunks of it sucked into the engine. If I want an aftermarket filter I usually go with a K&N.
I would like to see inside the oil filter, for more sparkly stuff.
Man that engine has seen some heat! FYI- Those Radium billet fuel rails for a 94-97 are like $140-$150 new online.
I'm thinking this is what I'm about to find when I tear apart my 91 Escort GT engine next week. Luckily I have a spare so between the two, hopefully I'll get my baby to pur again.
Good Lord! That BMW is gorgeous!
0:15 lower right corner, are we getting an M278 teardown soon?
The BP was also found in the Tracer LTS' twin, the Escort LX-e.
Have you done a 1.8 turbo vw transverse engine or Audi 3.0t supercharged? Would love to see either one of those.
Would love to see a tear down of a 2.7 Ecoboost
You were right, totally wore out. It had to have terrible rod knock. It probably sounded like a diesel at best.
Sparklefest - I like it! New favorite word
Oil pan ingredients: Sparkles (from fortified bearings with vitamin C) and lots of sludge from lack of maintenance (Fram oil filter and onions...extra) LOL!
If you ever come across an Audi/Vw 1.8t I'd love to see it.. Great channel btw
And as always.... a pleasure to watch. Never been a fan of Mazda, but you've shown me a reason to be impressed by these ones.
Have you ever pulled apart a Toyota K motor? Like from a 70s Corolla? They also have oversized rod and main hardware like this. It's like half a V8. Those were the first motors I ever worked on and everything else looks weak and small by comparison, until now anyway.
I've been waiting for a teardown on one of these!
Great engines the B6 and BP. I still have a B6 sitting under the house that I swapped out of my 93 NA. Its replacement was still going strong after 10 years of being flogged mercilessly and with at least 150 thousand miles on it, even after it lost coolant twice due to a stuck thermostat and a blown water pump. All it got was regular oil changes with dinosaur oil. It would have easily outlasted the rest of the car.