@@OffTheLinePerformancecan you guys place make a video for rebuilding the h6 Subaru engines? I know that they may not yield the same amount of popularity in terms of tuning or performance but I believe they deserve some love and recognition. That said I believe that the Subaru h6 engines may be underrated and overlooked in terms of its potential. I got a ez30D I’m working on but cannot find enough info should I need to rebuild it and think I’m not alone in this circumstance
My main issue over this assembly process is the parts not cleaned. When I’m shelling out bucks for an engine I want the same type of care to go beyond just slapping an engine together. I realize this probably won’t affect the overall performance of that engine, but makes it totally easier to spot oil leaks. Quality of assembly is the deciding factor for me returning to a shop.
Glad I’m not the only one who thought this, as well as the lack of torque sequencing on the cam carriers and caps, improper rtv amounts and routes especially with the carriers and oil pump. Great video for a novice but the seasoned builders will see a lot of “NO-NO’s. Im honestly surprised as OTL has a good rep, figured they would follow the book 100% butttt…..
When I was working with a 35 year VW tech, I used to ask him all the time why he didn’t use a torque wrench. For weeks later he would make a ‘click’ sound with his mouth every time he assembled an engine. 😂 I was told that after assembling a few hundred motors he could feel it was right. 😊
This was a well put together video. I watched every minute because there was a wealth of information and attention to detail that I thoroughly enjoyed.
Very informative video! Thank you guys so much for putting this together. A complete noobie like myself can now find the confidence to tackle this on their own!
Sick build man. I'm actually in the middle of doing an 02Q swap on an 07K for a friend. Definitely cool to see some of the progress you've made with the car! I'm actually building my vr6 turbo right now and seeing videos like these motivates me to finish it!
I know on a Cummins when they do a hot retorque. Let’s see you do that on a Subaru motor. IV tried to do one and the bolts moved a little but the time and heat I lost taking the motor out was all basically piece of mind.
Not looking forward to rebuilding my 255, and not sure if I’ll tackle it, as it’s my first Subaru motor, but thanks for giving me some great pointers if I decide to!
Love the level of detail that you put into this video one of the best video I see on RUclips so far how to instal an subaru engine love the detail thanks alot
Hey guys thanks for giving me the confidence I needed to pull and strip my own motor to the short block. Video and explanation is 9/10, alot of helpful tips and tricks. Cameraman needs to be fired for his lack of focus at key parts tho 😂😂 jokes. Both guys are awesome and thanks again for this phenomenal breakdown of the EJ257 🤙💪
For some reason I’m watching this and I’m a pro Subaru builder haha. I use an impact gun on cam gear and crank pulley removal. Otherwise you can let me know how the fight goes and the struggle to use the tool when my dewalt mid rang impact takes them off with 0 negative side affects. Just use the damn torque wrench when you put them back on. Like every bolt on the Subaru engine should be torqued to spec or again strip all the valve cover bolts, and the one that I see stripped mornthan any other bolt is the oil pickup tube flange bolts that mount it to the block. That will kill your motor. I on every build drill out the oil pickup mounting threads and use a long cert so I know for sure that the oil pickup won’t fail. This is the #1 cause of failure, people buy the killer b pickup tube to fix the oiling then create a problem over tightening the 8mm bolts and pulling the threads out of the aluminum. To cover it with silicone and then take it to me with rod bearing failure and when I show them that they try to blame me. And I’m like I didn’t build your motor how is this my fault. Sorry but you can’t reuse the crank or any parts in that motor now. And the killer b pickup tube you just destroyed by sucking up so much bearing material and sending it to the cams and ruining them as well.
i'm not a pro and yeah, impact for crank bolt and 23cam tools + cheater for initial bolt break. curious, do you torque the cam-bolts in after the timing gears installed or do you just get them Tight till they snug? do the cam's require a lateral lash like the crank? cheers (thanks if you see this)
Question 1 You guys bought a new shortblock. If I need to rebuild my engine, the heads will be resurfaced but do I also need too resurface the shortblock the sides that connects the heads? I will keep it stock. Question 2 And which part should I buy from third party and which oem I could order again.
Hi!, my EJ25 wrx 08. I changed the passenger side valve cover gasket about 9 times and it still leaks, the cover is new with new screws. No cracks, everything normal, if I don't accelerate it doesn't leak anything. The problem is when I accelerate it starts to leak barely always from the weakest point which would be at the angle where the RTV is placed. The PCV valve is ok, and tubes ok. I wonder if the problem is that a lot of gases are generated in the valve cover but that would be very rare...
Hey man great in depth video. I’ve got a couple of questions to ask. I’ve got a 1997 jdm wrx sti Impreza. I’ve replaced the head gaskets already as I was lifting the heads. Running 2 bar of boost with a g25/660 turbo and all supporting mods including water/injection. When I replaced them I had the heads resurfaced, pressure and crack checked and everything was as it should. I used RCM head gaskets and RCM extreme 11mm head studs. It’s about 12 months since and I’m now lifting the heads again. Cat drives fine under normal driving conditions only when using full boost does it push coolant into the overflow. Car has never overheated. I noticed in your video when you torqued the studs you said on high horsepower engines you torque to 150 ft/lb. Is that with the same arp studs or with the bigger 14mm version? My second question was about when you put the washers on you put lube on both sides but I watched a video with an arp representative who said to only lube the top side as it will cause a bearing affect and stretch the bolt? I’m hoping I can torque mine to a higher amount and alleviate this problem. Much appreciated for any advice.
How long do you let the RTV cure for? Seems like you just fire it up the same day. I'm thought I always had to let it sit for close to 24hrs before running fluids.
Hello, I have a problem with my 2011 Subaru Impreza when the car is cold I turn and there is no problem when I use it for a long time and I turn to any side and it feels like the front tires are activated, the transmission stops until the car is completely cold. If I have that problem, could you help me with this problem? I have already changed many parts and it is still not solved
Did you not have to pack the oil pump with Vaseline? I’m having trouble building oil pressure. I’ve seen people say you shouldn’t fill the oil filter because it’ll create an air bubble. I didn’t fill my oil filter but I’m still not getting oil pressure. I’ve seen people say you should pack the oil pump with Vaseline. I wasn’t aware of that but I didn’t notice you mention anything about it. I also didn’t notice you unplugging the crank sensor to spin the engine and build oil pressure.
Try cranking the engine without the engine filter first until oil starts coming of the filter housing. Once the oil starts coming out, put your filter back on and try cranking again. My pressure light went off after that, and I was able to start the engine.
Does anybody else medium strength thread locker the oil pump bolts? I did mine without like in the video and had several people comment to me that its a must to do that apparently. mine was a 05 EJ257 so not sure if something changed compare to newer 257's
The expertise shows in hand torquing those bolts, the Subie engines designed/assembled quite similar to a snowmobile engine, w the block sandwiching the crankshaft, makes for a really compact and lightweight design, it's also why the stock blocks can only handle Soo much without flexing..
I like the video very in depth. I wish you had better close up shots on some of the steps though. You describe it well but it's hard to see what exactly you're talking about.
took me 1 day to fully watch but i am confused on how you ran the car with no coolant, did you sub water if not doesnt that do damage to other parts like extreme fast temp increase
Hey thanks! You can start the car for 2-3 mins without coolant and you won’t damage anything. We do this just so if there happens to be an oil leak we can fix the problem without having to worry about if we’re going to have to open the cooling system. Just saves us a mess and wasted coolant!
I remember Cleetus making 1/4 mile passes without coolant and it was "okay". Cars don't need coolant until they reach like 200°F. The water pump can spin without fluid and it's unharmed.
please note to not over torque the oil feed pipe from the oil filter that goes through the oil cooler, it can and will take part of your fresh new motor off with it if you ever need to take it out.
I just built my Ra block engine, part of my build i regapped top rings to .018-.020" bottom rings .024"... Subaru had top ring .011-.013" top ring And bottom ring .021 Big mistake not regapping a Ra block.
not really a rebuild video as everything was already assembled more or less a video about installing heads on a short block, none the less still some useful info.
I don't like using silicone or rtv on valve covers, that stuff turns semi hard and if it falls off can jam passages etc... I use anaerobic sealants that only harden in areas that are sealed, the rest stays liquid and can easily melt away and get filtered out by the filter. I also don't like using dielectric grease on coils anymore. I've had times with my own project cars or customers that the crappy spring on the coil may fail to make contact with the plug because of the dielectric coating which is not Conductive. For the Grimm speed DP gasket I've had them leak, I don't have an oem turbo anymore but it's leaked on both oem and aftermarket FP turbo. They're MLS but I've always had to put on some high temp copper spray and let it dry, never had any leaks since. The life eval on the floor comment... 😅 Yea we've all been there, especially while installing a DP and the external waste gate
Not a rebuild... The short block was basically done... This is just the middle of the long block assembly/build.. Aka heads and on. I do like the cam gear holder tool, but I have a 04 ej25 block w/out the variable timing on a ej20 head IIRC .
So I guess I heard wrong or my maths ain't so good. You gapped these plugs at .025, but then you say you can use a bigger gap of .020 with the better coils? That's smaller, not bigger. What am I missing?
As a pro tuner. Let me enlighten you all. Ejs blow up because… people don’t do a boost leak test and boost leak the maf sensor tube and everything. A maf leak equals lean. Then knock events lead up to spun bearing because they don’t understand how the ecm works and the Cobb devise won’t fix it cuz it also uses the same sensor to adjust fuel based off air flow. 1 maf leak you car will be running lower load seen and therefor the timing for the low load range which is advanced for low end torque. So throw all those mods on, blow your car up is the pattern. 😅 so next time let’s try this folks. Throw all those mods on. Then boost leak every part of the intake and exhaust. Systems. Then so your tuning process, and have a good car. If you get a big maf. Your up shit creek without a tune that rescaled the timing and load g/rev otherwise it will be getting more air than calculated in that low load region of the timing map and high boost equals lean and knocking till failure every time
Sorry, If you do a Tutorial you show people how and what to clean and lubricate and Assemble. You have not rebuilt anything just bolted togeather pre built assemblies.
This guy calls putting a motor together bolting parts on an assembled short block, that is called assembling the bolt ons building an engine encompasses clearancing the shortblock which is the all important part mess up there and you will be taking that motor back out after a few minutes of running time, that separates the men from the boys..
I'm truly confused on when putting a timing belt or chain on any engine rather it's a Subaru or Toyota, Chevy !!! And your not using any specialty tool the belt our chain accidentally slipps how would it kiss a piston and bend a valve?? When a valve that is fully opened will spring back to its seated position !!!! THE only way I can see any valve being bent is on a interference engine that's running and the belt breaks our jumps. Thanks PLMK?
Yes, as long as you don't rotate the crank, the valves won't kiss the pistons. When installing timing belt, the LH head needs valves opened to line up, and if you rotate the cams the wrong way, you can cause the intake and exhaust valves to collide.
No one mentions batteries. Once they get a lot of charging cycles, that battery is wasted. And new battery costs almost like a new EV car. That's why, IMO, EVs depreciate faster.
Well as a raceshop owner and engine builder myself there are a few things in here that are definitely not the way they should be according to pretty much every aftermarket Stud company per engineers request. The bottom threads on the stud are supposed to be hand, snug only and not lubricated also the washers that go down before the nuts only get lubricated on the top side where the nut makes contact not underneath that is a big no no as you do not want the washer to spin, which is why we put them down dry… this is probably one of the most commonly known things amongst builders so not really sure what’s going on here…. And purposefully over Twerking the center Studz is absolutely asking for head gases stealing issues as you now have an uneven clamping load. This is probably the biggest NO NO in this video 🤦🏻♂️
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Love in depth rebuilds like this, please do more
We're planning on it!
@@OffTheLinePerformancecan you guys place make a video for rebuilding the h6 Subaru engines? I know that they may not yield the same amount of popularity in terms of tuning or performance but I believe they deserve some love and recognition. That said I believe that the Subaru h6 engines may be underrated and overlooked in terms of its potential. I got a ez30D I’m working on but cannot find enough info should I need to rebuild it and think I’m not alone in this circumstance
In the process of rebuilding my 12 sti hatch and this video is a godsend! Thanks so much Grayson!
How's it going?
Best EJ assembly video I've ever seen. Saw it completely and learned a lot from it. Thanks a lot guys for what you're doing! 🙌👏👏👏💪💪💪
Thank you Grayson!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you Grayson,I love anything Subaru from OTL,as I am a Josh Bader customer BBR 500 2019 STI
Thats awesome!
Love this style of video! Keep doing these!
We will keep this in mind!!
Currently rebuilding my 2009 STI EJ257. Y'all are a god send!
im not even rebuilding my engine but I totally admire the knowledge and explanation. This guy did a fantastic job.
My main issue over this assembly process is the parts not cleaned. When I’m shelling out bucks for an engine I want the same type of care to go beyond just slapping an engine together. I realize this probably won’t affect the overall performance of that engine, but makes it totally easier to spot oil leaks. Quality of assembly is the deciding factor for me returning to a shop.
Thank you guys so much for this video. There are plenty out there on how to disassemble an ej, but almost none on how to reassemble .
Thank you guys so much for this!!!!!! You guys are amazing and have done so much for the Subaru community as a whole!
Thank you for your support!!!
I feel like there should have been more appearances made by a torque wrench.
Glad I’m not the only one who thought this, as well as the lack of torque sequencing on the cam carriers and caps, improper rtv amounts and routes especially with the carriers and oil pump. Great video for a novice but the seasoned builders will see a lot of “NO-NO’s. Im honestly surprised as OTL has a good rep, figured they would follow the book 100% butttt…..
If it works for them and they have great results and no engine issues is their method wrong?
@@kaelll85I doubt this car is being driven like a real track / street car on a regular / daily driver basis.
When I was working with a 35 year VW tech, I used to ask him all the time why he didn’t use a torque wrench. For weeks later he would make a ‘click’ sound with his mouth every time he assembled an engine. 😂 I was told that after assembling a few hundred motors he could feel it was right. 😊
@@kaelll85luck isn’t the same as competence.
Thank you for making this, I'm going together with my first EJ25 assembly right now, and this is hugely helpful!
Good luck!
That blue point tool cart is sick👌
Wow, this was amazing. Will be referencing this video soon after I pull mine!
The Value you guys provide from your channel is top tier. Amazing rebuild instructions. Thank you!
Appreciate the Love!
Thank You, that was a interesting and detailed STI engine bebuild, i held my breath when you turned the key for the 1st time 👍 Au
This was a well put together video. I watched every minute because there was a wealth of information and attention to detail that I thoroughly enjoyed.
This is fantastic. Although I just scheduled my shop visit for a new engine, I've definitely saved this for the project car!
Very informative video! Thank you guys so much for putting this together. A complete noobie like myself can now find the confidence to tackle this on their own!
Sick build man. I'm actually in the middle of doing an 02Q swap on an 07K for a friend. Definitely cool to see some of the progress you've made with the car! I'm actually building my vr6 turbo right now and seeing videos like these motivates me to finish it!
Rebuilding my EJ25 with a built long block and the in depth video is really helping
Loved this one, any chance of a more in depth sti 6-speed rebuild video in the future?
I know on a Cummins when they do a hot retorque. Let’s see you do that on a Subaru motor. IV tried to do one and the bolts moved a little but the time and heat I lost taking the motor out was all basically piece of mind.
Not looking forward to rebuilding my 255, and not sure if I’ll tackle it, as it’s my first Subaru motor, but thanks for giving me some great pointers if I decide to!
will be watching this if i ever grenade my motor!!! appreciate the work you guys have done on my sti swapped hawkeye!
Love the level of detail that you put into this video one of the best video I see on RUclips so far how to instal an subaru engine love the detail thanks alot
Hey guys thanks for giving me the confidence I needed to pull and strip my own motor to the short block. Video and explanation is 9/10, alot of helpful tips and tricks. Cameraman needs to be fired for his lack of focus at key parts tho 😂😂 jokes. Both guys are awesome and thanks again for this phenomenal breakdown of the EJ257 🤙💪
Great refrence/build video. About to throw an engine together soon for my 04 STI. Awesome stuff.
For some reason I’m watching this and I’m a pro Subaru builder haha. I use an impact gun on cam gear and crank pulley removal. Otherwise you can let me know how the fight goes and the struggle to use the tool when my dewalt mid rang impact takes them off with 0 negative side affects. Just use the damn torque wrench when you put them back on. Like every bolt on the Subaru engine should be torqued to spec or again strip all the valve cover bolts, and the one that I see stripped mornthan any other bolt is the oil pickup tube flange bolts that mount it to the block. That will kill your motor. I on every build drill out the oil pickup mounting threads and use a long cert so I know for sure that the oil pickup won’t fail. This is the #1 cause of failure, people buy the killer b pickup tube to fix the oiling then create a problem over tightening the 8mm bolts and pulling the threads out of the aluminum. To cover it with silicone and then take it to me with rod bearing failure and when I show them that they try to blame me. And I’m like I didn’t build your motor how is this my fault. Sorry but you can’t reuse the crank or any parts in that motor now. And the killer b pickup tube you just destroyed by sucking up so much bearing material and sending it to the cams and ruining them as well.
i'm not a pro and yeah, impact for crank bolt and 23cam tools + cheater for initial bolt break. curious, do you torque the cam-bolts in after the timing gears installed or do you just get them Tight till they snug? do the cam's require a lateral lash like the crank?
cheers (thanks if you see this)
Is there a manual u would recommend to rebuild 2016 sti engine?
Great work btw
you just saved meeeeee!!!!!
WOOOOO
Thanks. Many nice things here. How about a 600+hp shortblock in depth build next with clearance specs
Question 1
You guys bought a new shortblock. If I need to rebuild my engine, the heads will be resurfaced but do I also need too resurface the shortblock the sides that connects the heads? I will keep it stock.
Question 2
And which part should I buy from third party and which oem I could order again.
Awesome 🔥
Always wanted to make a stand that could lock into something to stop it moving when you got for those big torque numbers
What silicone gasket did you use
Hi!, my EJ25 wrx 08. I changed the passenger side valve cover gasket about 9 times and it still leaks, the cover is new with new screws. No cracks, everything normal, if I don't accelerate it doesn't leak anything. The problem is when I accelerate it starts to leak barely always from the weakest point which would be at the angle where the RTV is placed. The PCV valve is ok, and tubes ok. I wonder if the problem is that a lot of gases are generated in the valve cover but that would be very rare...
Hey man great in depth video. I’ve got a couple of questions to ask. I’ve got a 1997 jdm wrx sti Impreza. I’ve replaced the head gaskets already as I was lifting the heads. Running 2 bar of boost with a g25/660 turbo and all supporting mods including water/injection. When I replaced them I had the heads resurfaced, pressure and crack checked and everything was as it should. I used RCM head gaskets and RCM extreme 11mm head studs. It’s about 12 months since and I’m now lifting the heads again. Cat drives fine under normal driving conditions only when using full boost does it push coolant into the overflow. Car has never overheated. I noticed in your video when you torqued the studs you said on high horsepower engines you torque to 150 ft/lb. Is that with the same arp studs or with the bigger 14mm version?
My second question was about when you put the washers on you put lube on both sides but I watched a video with an arp representative who said to only lube the top side as it will cause a bearing affect and stretch the bolt? I’m hoping I can torque mine to a higher amount and alleviate this problem.
Much appreciated for any advice.
How much was the cost of all this rebuilt?
Brother, do you have a part # for that 12pt socket?
Hey man, how do you add a popn bang tune with carvery?
Do you need to replace the turbo with a spun bearing?
How long do you let the RTV cure for? Seems like you just fire it up the same day. I'm thought I always had to let it sit for close to 24hrs before running fluids.
Why are you using silicone for the oil pan and oil pump instead of a gasket?
Because that's what you do with an ej?
This was great! Can you do this on an FA?
Hello, I have a problem with my 2011 Subaru Impreza when the car is cold I turn and there is no problem when I use it for a long time and I turn to any side and it feels like the front tires are activated, the transmission stops until the car is completely cold. If I have that problem, could you help me with this problem? I have already changed many parts and it is still not solved
i thought to myself "why is there a large "Chuck It" ball on the LS in the backround, and then at 16:20 i saw doggo. and now it all makes sense. haha
Did you not have to pack the oil pump with Vaseline? I’m having trouble building oil pressure. I’ve seen people say you shouldn’t fill the oil filter because it’ll create an air bubble. I didn’t fill my oil filter but I’m still not getting oil pressure. I’ve seen people say you should pack the oil pump with Vaseline. I wasn’t aware of that but I didn’t notice you mention anything about it. I also didn’t notice you unplugging the crank sensor to spin the engine and build oil pressure.
Try cranking the engine without the engine filter first until oil starts coming of the filter housing. Once the oil starts coming out, put your filter back on and try cranking again. My pressure light went off after that, and I was able to start the engine.
Does anybody else medium strength thread locker the oil pump bolts? I did mine without like in the video and had several people comment to me that its a must to do that apparently. mine was a 05 EJ257 so not sure if something changed compare to newer 257's
your a beast mate, make it look easy haha, cheers
Awesome video my man. Thank you
Glad you liked it!
The expertise shows in hand torquing those bolts, the Subie engines designed/assembled quite similar to a snowmobile engine, w the block sandwiching the crankshaft, makes for a really compact and lightweight design, it's also why the stock blocks can only handle Soo much without flexing..
10:10
If you drop the buckets and didn't know where they go, how do you figure it out?
You have to measure your valve lash
Thank you, very useful video.
I like the video very in depth. I wish you had better close up shots on some of the steps though. You describe it well but it's hard to see what exactly you're talking about.
How much it cost 2015+ wrx engine block rebuild?
OEM gasket vs a brand name aftermarket gasket ?
Drove nearly 200k miles with the EJ255 in my Forester STI without it ever needing a rebuild. Maybe you should do an in depth how to keep them alive...
Believe you just pulled the psa 10 charizard
good video..just wouldn't start an ej without coolant since thats all thats lubricating the waterpump
The laying on the floor under the car thing, i have done a million times!! hahah
Company23 makes a camlock tool for the TIC FU cam gear bolts. 59:00
Good video, but why isn't a torque wrench being used?
His hand and wrist are calibrated
I’ll admit I forgot that line but I got it in without taking the timing off nor the covers. It is possible
always check for oil leaks with your fleshlight after first startup.
Really indepth info on the myriad oil/vacuum lines there's a shit ton on these little motors!!
Po302 2006 subaru sti with 146,000 miles .working my way to a compression and leakdown test
No important order on torquing cam caps? The service manuals say otherwise.
My toxic trait is watching this entire video thru and thru and thinking I can do it right away
It's not toxic you can...ez
You used the oem head gaskets….why not something like cometic or felpro or whatever…why the oem ones?
I know that some people like oem gaskets for their open deck blocks
@@cheddardavis5818 okay but are they better than aftermarket? Because I know these are a real problem area
Depending on power level I’m not 100% sure there but I see a lot of people under the 500hp mark using oem especially with the fa20
The car made stock power, so no need for the upgrade! All of our big power builds get upgraded HG
Can we get one for a fa20dit please 🙏🏼
I got 109k miles making 600whp and I pushed my wrx to 800hp a few times, should I get a rebuild ?
Only when it breaks! Run it until it doesnt anymore!!
@@OffTheLinePerformance big Bett, I feel a lost of power now so I might get a new motor
@@chasestoddard6984 awe man! We'd be more than happy to help! If you have any questions shoot us an email sales@offthelineperformance.com
took me 1 day to fully watch but i am confused on how you ran the car with no coolant, did you sub water if not doesnt that do damage to other parts like extreme fast temp increase
Hey thanks! You can start the car for 2-3 mins without coolant and you won’t damage anything. We do this just so if there happens to be an oil leak we can fix the problem without having to worry about if we’re going to have to open the cooling system. Just saves us a mess and wasted coolant!
I remember Cleetus making 1/4 mile passes without coolant and it was "okay". Cars don't need coolant until they reach like 200°F. The water pump can spin without fluid and it's unharmed.
please note to not over torque the oil feed pipe from the oil filter that goes through the oil cooler, it can and will take part of your fresh new motor off with it if you ever need to take it out.
are you by chance in florida?
we are in des moines iowa
I just built my Ra block engine, part of my build i regapped top rings to .018-.020" bottom rings .024"...
Subaru had top ring .011-.013" top ring
And bottom ring .021
Big mistake not regapping a Ra block.
# smeedia
Excellent ej tear downs/builds, truly in depth step by step.
Plus he will reply to any comments🤙🏻
not really a rebuild video as everything was already assembled more or less a video about installing heads on a short block, none the less still some useful info.
Nah bro, it was a long block engine build. Had alot of good info on here.
I used this vehicle to rebuild my motor, and watched it atleast 6 times but it guided me through the whole thing
@markalvarado7866 an engine with no heads is a short block build
This video is good and it exactly what I was looking for
Go to smeedias video if you want a video that covers literally everything
Bless you sir
fyi on the RH exhaust cam bolt you hit 73.3 ft/lbs
Ya it turned red
Just blew my engine at 32K, I only got to drive the car 8K of that. Think I'm going to try a build a bit earlier than I expected.
We offer 400/600 packages that could be just what you need!
ruclips.net/video/uCglt0UwCGk/видео.html
I don't like using silicone or rtv on valve covers, that stuff turns semi hard and if it falls off can jam passages etc... I use anaerobic sealants that only harden in areas that are sealed, the rest stays liquid and can easily melt away and get filtered out by the filter.
I also don't like using dielectric grease on coils anymore. I've had times with my own project cars or customers that the crappy spring on the coil may fail to make contact with the plug because of the dielectric coating which is not Conductive.
For the Grimm speed DP gasket I've had them leak, I don't have an oem turbo anymore but it's leaked on both oem and aftermarket FP turbo. They're MLS but I've always had to put on some high temp copper spray and let it dry, never had any leaks since.
The life eval on the floor comment... 😅 Yea we've all been there, especially while installing a DP and the external waste gate
M you say rebuild but the bottom end is already done, this is just the head assembly and aux
Tuning tutorial when? 😋
My toxic trait is thinking I could do all of this within the 2 hours because that's how long the video is that i just watched
the 4 dislikes are jealous of your lovely equipment
You can see dislikes? I thought the Marxists got rid of that..
Don’t do the crank shaft trick for that cam gears, not recommended
Not a rebuild... The short block was basically done... This is just the middle of the long block assembly/build.. Aka heads and on.
I do like the cam gear holder tool, but I have a 04 ej25 block w/out the variable timing on a ej20 head IIRC .
So I guess I heard wrong or my maths ain't so good. You gapped these plugs at .025, but then you say you can use a bigger gap of .020 with the better coils? That's smaller, not bigger. What am I missing?
As a pro tuner. Let me enlighten you all. Ejs blow up because… people don’t do a boost leak test and boost leak the maf sensor tube and everything. A maf leak equals lean. Then knock events lead up to spun bearing because they don’t understand how the ecm works and the Cobb devise won’t fix it cuz it also uses the same sensor to adjust fuel based off air flow. 1 maf leak you car will be running lower load seen and therefor the timing for the low load range which is advanced for low end torque. So throw all those mods on, blow your car up is the pattern. 😅 so next time let’s try this folks. Throw all those mods on. Then boost leak every part of the intake and exhaust. Systems. Then so your tuning process, and have a good car. If you get a big maf. Your up shit creek without a tune that rescaled the timing and load g/rev otherwise it will be getting more air than calculated in that low load region of the timing map and high boost equals lean and knocking till failure every time
I didn't realize subaru uses SOOOO much silicone everywhere instead of actual gaskets lol
You would be surprised on how many modern engines seem to use more gasket maker/sealant than actual gaskets.
Pretty common. Most modern engines are RTV'd together.
I would have fitted a new clutch 😢
Sorry, If you do a Tutorial you show people how and what to clean and lubricate and Assemble.
You have not rebuilt anything just bolted togeather pre built assemblies.
You are NOT supposed to lube both sides of the head stud washers! Only the one facing the nut!
love the out-most white-ness of the lab ^^
This guy calls putting a motor together bolting parts on an assembled short block, that is called assembling the bolt ons building an engine encompasses clearancing the shortblock which is the all important part mess up there and you will be taking that motor back out after a few minutes
of running time, that separates the men from the boys..
Wish I had watched this a couple months ago. BEFORE I did the timing without installing the AVCS line on drive side. Fuck my life
I'm truly confused on when putting a timing belt or chain on any engine rather it's a Subaru or Toyota, Chevy !!! And your not using any specialty tool the belt our chain accidentally slipps how would it kiss a piston and bend a valve?? When a valve that is fully opened will spring back to its seated position !!!! THE only way I can see any valve being bent is on a interference engine that's running and the belt breaks our jumps. Thanks PLMK?
Yes, as long as you don't rotate the crank, the valves won't kiss the pistons. When installing timing belt, the LH head needs valves opened to line up, and if you rotate the cams the wrong way, you can cause the intake and exhaust valves to collide.
No one mentions batteries. Once they get a lot of charging cycles, that battery is wasted.
And new battery costs almost like a new EV car.
That's why, IMO, EVs depreciate faster.
*opens block* .... *sees open deck block*..... ohhh ok so like 350-400whp build max. got it
All turbo ej2.5l are semi closed deck.
Well as a raceshop owner and engine builder myself there are a few things in here that are definitely not the way they should be according to pretty much every aftermarket Stud company per engineers request. The bottom threads on the stud are supposed to be hand, snug only and not lubricated also the washers that go down before the nuts only get lubricated on the top side where the nut makes contact not underneath that is a big no no as you do not want the washer to spin, which is why we put them down dry… this is probably one of the most commonly known things amongst builders so not really sure what’s going on here….
And purposefully over Twerking the center Studz is absolutely asking for head gases stealing issues as you now have an uneven clamping load. This is probably the biggest NO NO in this video 🤦🏻♂️