Thank you Juliet. There's another take on it here ruclips.net/video/tdMnnkvInrE/видео.html but I did use a trim router to make the mouldings, but the doors were constructed the same way. 👍🏻
I panelled off an island that i made using that method. I nailed it with panel pins and a little stanley electric nail gun i bought off amazon. Thanks Charlie. God bless.
Thank you sooooooo much. I made a 'rough' closet for my mother months ago and left it without doors not conceiving how to make them. Your video was exactly what I needed. Perfect! Much needed. Now my mother will get doors for her closet. Every detail was needed especially making doors for cabinets that were not in square. Thanks.
Built a whole shaker kitchen like this including tall doors for the pantry and it's still perfect 10 years later, hasn't moved a mm, no separation or anything, just about to refresh the farrow and ball paint this spring. Didn't use panel pins just glued and clamped.
Charlie!! You may be a DIYer but you're a master at instructional vids! Such clear explanations and I especially love your close-up shots, which must take time to set up, but are much appreciated. Your vids are by far the best for novices because you skip nothing and keep to the point, making every second worth watching. Great music too!! Thank you SO MUCH 💜
Absolutely love your videos. I find that too many others are using too much expensive equipment which would need a whole dedicated workshop. Thanks so much for showing how you do it. Have subscribed ☺️
Can't thank you enough for subscribing Claire, and for the lovely comment! That's the way I roll, and I'm not going to change it any time soon. Drop me a line if you ever have any queries 👍
the guy is very correct in making videos using basic tools.....because if a person has the expensive tools, more likely he is a professional....although not always the case
Great upload, i thoroughly enjoyed that. I made myself a workbench using the Stanley sawhorses as shown in one of your previous uploads. I made mine slightly smaller for easier portability. Its FANTASTIC!! Thanks
D Lamb Brilliant - so glad to hear that. They're great aren't they - love mine. I'll be posting a vid soon with a couple of upgrades you might be interested in.
Love the videos as usual. Never thought of using a sliding bevel. Also you are exactly right, all RUclipsrs have proper router tables etc. Us normal folk just don't have those sort of things. Thanks.
Our whole kitchen is constructed this way we did it ourselves, god knows how we got it right but 18 years later it's still perfect, just about to repaint it this year. We used green mdf because of moisture worries though, the rails and styles were thinner mdf and they were not fitted inset doors so easier to do.
Good to hear this design has longevity! I'm just about to embark on an epic bedroom wardrobe project. I've thought long and hard about doing the doors properly (with separate rails and stiles and an inset central piece) but I just can't be bothered with all the hassle, and this way is much more assessible to most DIYers because you don't need sophisticated tools to accomplish it. Thanks for getting in touch👍
Having watched this video and a few other I took the leap and ordered the material for my fitted cupboard. Finished it and it turned out pretty well for my first cupboard. Many a tips and recommendations came handed , Zinsser, panel doors to name a few! Thanks!!! Can’t attach a pic to show the result.
Looks great. You can put full length mirror on the inside, since they cover panels anyway. MDF also supposedly toxic when cutting/sawing it. So maybe use plywood instead - ion frame will accommodate it.
Hi, this is apropos of nothing, but yours is the first channel I've found in a while to use use background music for the montages, that's actually pleasant, unintrusive, calming yet exciting.
Hi Charlie another cracking video. I love the fact that you say things like 'carpenters say... but you don't need to.' I would love to have a full workshop and all the tools (I have tool envy about your tools) but I don't. I'm totally booked on your channel. Interestingly I made some mock maple usher doors for a kitchen under stair cupboard using funeral paint and train and I didn't pin the styles but they are still going strong 20 years later. Keep up the good work.
These DIY videos are probably the best I have seen on RUclips. Great job and thank you so much for teaching me! (Though some concern for safety would be good - using a respirator with MDF is important!)
Thanks John. I'm posting a series of videos over the next few weeks cataloguing a new wardrobe build, so you might keep an eye out for that. First one goes live this Saturday. 👍🏻
Another great video Charlie - and yes, I stayed for every last second 😉. I made some doors myself with a very similar method, substituting pine for the shaker stiles etc as I'm never keen fitting hinges to MDF, particularly on heavy doors. Just one piece of feedback Charlie (and I don't always take my advice, so hands up), but you really need to use a suitable mask working with MDF, it really is nasty stuff and you only need one good lungful to have serious health consequences. I know you were using a vac inside, but belt and braces I'd recommend still using a mask.
Charlie, Thanks for this; i'm 65 and have been doing DIY for 45 years ! Have never made fitted wardrobe doors however, & so with your excellent (27 minute !) video I will now be able to. The only bit that seems a little 'hit & miss' is the non square planing on the long edges ?
Hi Charlie, I use a slightly different method to you . I use contact adhesive , no clamping ,less waiting , waterproof glue . I find it's pretty good, and quick.
Bit late to the party but I thought I'd mention that it is always worth practicing a process called balancing. Where you have laminated on your 'frame pieces's you might find the doors will cup towards the 'frame pieces'. Now if you were to add the same 'framework' to the back of the door this will balance the lamination. When I do this style of door I use a 12mm central MDF sheet and laminate on both sides of the door using 6 mm MDF. You end up with a very strong and stable door. Some might call it the Theresa May. I don't mean to take anything away from your method. At the end of the day you created something awesome and keep on creating. Just something I've found very helpful.
Thanks! Doing some cupboard in the garage but their's no reason why I can't make them look good, it will be great practice and I love the color you used on the doors in the next video
Are they finished, lol? Victorian and toddler inspired finish are two different things. Love the idea, not too keen on the color and the worn Looks great. I think it’s all the white here in there that kind of mixer it look like it’s not been wiped.
Hiya Charlie, got to say you showed us all some great tips your an inspiration to us all.Good luck with any future project's, cheers m8 and may you & yours stay healthy & strong👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👌💪👋👋👋👋👋👋👋✌
Thanks to your videos, I have made my own fitted wardrobes (although I did make the mistake of not fully supporting the doors when I "shakered" them) and a plywood 2x4 sawhorse portable workbench. Looking forward to what you inspire me to make next! Cheers
How have these held up Charlie? This is my first attempt at making mock shaker style doors full length about 240cm for a tall wardrobe. Don't have a router to make the traditional way. Have seen other videos of people doing similar with 12mm board and 6mm rails and stiles and people have said they've started warping after a short wile due to only one side holding the weight of rails and stiles, and also due to the pva (perbaps water in it) and not using MR MDF. I am planning to use 18mm regular mdf with 6mm rails and stiles.
They've held up very well. This is the better video to watch ruclips.net/video/tdMnnkvInrE/видео.htmlsi=5rFQN7v7c0HOv3OV The warping happens when you make it, not afterwards as discussed in the video - and I know this as I've had the frustrating experience of doors warping. These doors and the ones in the video you've watched haven't moved one bit.
Love your videos! I need to make 2 - 600 x 210cm doors for my sons wardrobe. I have left over 12mm MDF from renovations but I thought it felt way too heavy to use as doors?
Thanks so much 🙏 It's what I use. Check out this series ruclips.net/video/tdMnnkvInrE/видео.htmlsi=M3_gmA5lKjELnZtx This is video 7 in the series but the one you need for the doors.
Quick tip from a pro brother, if you use this system of fake panel doors? Use exterior mdf because the standard mdf tends to bow when you use pva glue! Failing that use pu glue or contact adhesive 👍👍👍👍good job👊
Thanks for that mate - makes sense, and that's why I clamped each piece down before nailing it. Yep, I'm going to start using moisture resistant MDF from now on. It's just not that readily available at the local timber merchants I use. 👍
That's a damn good point - I have a router and am not sure why I didn't think of that 🙄, although if I do this I'll have to do the rails and stiles in timber as I'm guessing the MDF grain would puff up and require a fair bit of sanding between coats.
This video is such a great find! Just one question, with this mismatch between pine and mdf, does it pose problems with the pines shrinkage down the line?
Thanks. No it hasn't although with my must recent build I routed the MDF to make the profile ruclips.net/video/R1dKybdYyY8/видео.htmlsi=7kLLg_lIckCiKkl6
Well, I have done very big and long doors in the past but with time they warp a little. Bottom is flash with frame but top is no longer flash. I typically trust Baltic birch ply better but it would very heavy. The door would not have a lot of usage (max 20 time a year). I saw you using MDF and I thought that would be good and it would not warp. I can use also MDO which is probably lighter. Please post a video for MDF screw use!!! I am sure it is going to be a great addition.
Hi Charlie. Followed this brilliant video and have made two odd shaped doors for the attic rooms and a cupboard door. Even inserted a real wood filet to screw the hinges into due to weight as had to make 46mm thick to match the other doors. Think they’ll look great when painted and even saved myself £1,200 off quote from local sawmill. Cheers! The only question I have is what to fill the punched nails and gaps with - two pack wood filler like you did, or polyfilla woodflex ready to apply which Is my go to wood filler?
Thanks Carl, I really appreciate that, and so glad it's worked well for your project. Funnily enough I'm just building a new set as we speak for this project ruclips.net/video/QUtP1WuAQtQ/видео.html Made the same way although I'm routing the moulding but kind of wishing I'd done it the same way as in the video you've watched 😉
Thanks John. It's not unfortunately. Ironically with all the videos I don't actually get much done, such as our bedroom which we moved out of a year ago. Still on the plus side it generates plenty of content!
@@CharlieDIYte thanks for the quick reply Charlie ! I will be having a good root around your other videos now ! Keep up the great work..you are certainly a talented man in many areas !
Great vid, little tip I learnt when I worked in a pub fitters workshop in my teens, half dry tack your Stiles each end not sending the panel pin all the way home before you apply glue, then the tack goes back into same hole and there's no sliding on the glue👍
Have you tried "Evo Stick, polyurethane wood adhesive"? its in a green tube. It expands a little so if you have any small spaces it will fill it. I used it on some pelmet boxes I made some one I used nothing else. It is very very strong indeed and you only have to use a small bead because it does expand , Probably half what you used for those moldings.
Thanks for the excellent video. It gave me the confidence to tackle making some cupboards in my lounge, which I’m very pleased with. I followed your instructions to the letter, even using Blum hinges from Ironmongery direct. I also found a suitable moulding from The Range to give them a more traditional look. Your videos are now my go-to for anything DIY. Great stuff.
How do I create a cutting list for a large job to minimise waste. I want to make new kitchen doors and draws in exterior mdf, as I’m assuming it’s more water/moister resistant. Also can you offer advice on the best thickness of mdf to use. I’m looking to make shaker type like your wardrobe doors. I was thinking that if I use 12mm for the main door and add a 75 to 150 mm boarder in 12 mm to create a 24 mm thick door frame.
Hi Charlie, thanks for this video. You make things look easier than they are due to your experience and skills. I'm looking for a sort of flat panel door like those commercial panel walls which would probably be just a flat sheet of MRMDF 1700 x 650 mm with a groove 5mm deep and 5mm wide in the middle. Do you believe 18mm would be ok or should I go thicker than that? My only concern with thicker would be having to install more hinges because of the weight. Thanks in advance for your time.
Hi Douglas, good to hear from you. I think you'll be fine with 18mm. You still want at least 3 - 4 hinges though, as they help stop the door warping, as do the door magnets.
Hi Charlie, I am about to make a cabinet with shaker doors but was worried about the routing and so this method really appeals. I am worried about screwing in to the ends of the mdf though for the hinges. How did that go?
James take a look at this series bit.ly/2UfXY4B. I have routed the mouldings (you can just insert yours though) but what you want is the euro style concealed hinges. They screw into the back for an incredibly strong fixing
Great video. Easy to understand and follow the instructions. I am going to make these for closet bypass doors. The only question I have is why use brad nails? The glue should do the job all by itself.
You're right but I'd still tends to use nails - just to hold them down really whilst the glue sets. You can then lever them out and fill the tiny holes really easily.
I'm not sure I had the glue gun when I did this video. The thing about the glue gun is that it's thicker so it will raise the moulding from the surface leaving a small gap behind. So you have to be a bit careful where you use it. I think good old pva is the best option for something like this. I'm just about to do doors for the current wardrobe series and I'm going to do away with moulding entirely by simply routing the edge. Remains to be seen how the end grain will look though. Might need a lot of paint.
Morning Charlie. Please don't take offence when I ask this, but if you're using a circular saw cutting at 90° with a straight edge, why use a planer for the chamfer? Why not angle the saw blade by 6° & recut? I did a similar project in my hallway with 2 doors. The tops of the doors had to match the angle of the stairway. That was not easy. But eventually I got it to sit correctly. No handles, just the push-to-open thingys from ikea. Great video. G
Gary Furness Good point Gary. Partly habit I guess because this is the way I've always done it, but also because I'm essentially just trimming at this stage. My saw guide is a little thick on the base to turn the saw blade without cutting into the guide (I'll be making a new one soon with a thinner, ply base), and I guess I trust my planing more than the saw with this all important final cut. Also, not everyone's got a circular saw so I always try and make the videos as accessible as possible. That said, you've made a very good point and I'll probably give it a go next time 🙂
Nice video again Charlie, makes the amateur diy ‘er’ have confidence in giving it a go 😊 I’ll be using this way of making mock doors 🚪 when I replace the kitchen door fronts @ home 👍🏻
Great video, really liked the design alterations using double thickness stiles etc. Lot to be proud about and helping people think about how they can do the same with a small collection of tools. Thanks regards Mike
Another great video. I’m inspired to finally crack on with a wardrobe project I’ve been putting off. I’m interested in your view on wether to use MDF cubes or timber frame for the carcass. I’d be building against a wall not in an alcove.
You could certainly do that although it will be more expensive. I'll be posting the final video in my current wardrobe series ruclips.net/video/R1dKybdYyY8/видео.html in a week or two. Keep an eye out for that as it will be all about my most recent wardrobe door construction.
@@CharlieDIYte I worked with mdf and I hate how it sucks the glue like a sponge and the priming its such a pain, so I am thinking plywood would be way easier, a bit more expensive, but I think way faster.
Thanks Chris. The panel pins are literally only to hold the panels in place whilst the glue is setting. Otherwise you're going to need a load of clamps, or something heavy to put on top, which is going to slow you down considerably.
Hello Charlie, I often find when doing this sort of project that I end up spending good money on items that you cant really do without ie 2 part wood filler. After some experimenting I have found that car body filler appears to do exactly the same job and I think it actually dries a bit quicker and can be sanded within minutes on small depths. I have found large tins of it on Ebay at low prices, a 3.5ltr tin of U-pol is under £20 and I reckon it will last me years. Maybe give it a try and see what you think Regards Bob
Hi Charlie. Loved this project, mainly because I'm considering doing something similar to my back room airing cupboard. I was wondering why you didn't use ply wood for the main door and pine for the cross pieces? I was thinking of having the door stained rather than painted so that's why I was thinking of wood with some grain rather than MDF. Thanks so much for the tips. By the way, I did have the circular saw blade too low while using my circular saw :-)...
Graham Watson Hi Graham. No reason. I guess just habit, and MDF is a little easier to work than ply 🤔 No reason why you shouldn't use it though. You and me both. I was close to binning the saw until a carpenter friend gave me the tip about the blade!!
It's messy stuff to tool, I agree and there are better products out there that don't skin over like Gripfill does. Yes, it's easy to tool - have you seen my new wardrobe series ruclips.net/video/R1dKybdYyY8/видео.html
I can’t find a moulding to match the ones you used ! Closest I can find has a hard square profile on the outer edge rather than two rounded ones. Any ideas please on where I can get them? Thanks !❤
Hi Michael. I painted the doors in this video ruclips.net/video/2YOASvodntU/видео.htmlNo, I didn't fill around the outer edge or on the MDF edges. People get quite hung up about MDF edges, but if you give them a few coats of paint sanding in between each, they look pretty good, and once you've hung them you'll never give them another glance. I certainly don't and I'm pretty OCD!
I’ve been meaning to ask what blade tooth count did you use to cut your mdf in this? It looks like a low tooth count? Did you get a few saw marks in the mdf edge?
It was a 24 tooth blade, although I tend to use a 40 tooth blade. That said, these days I always sand the edges before painting anyway as discussed here bit.ly/3wbEprJ, after planing the two 12mm surfaces flush, so it's kind of irrelevant if it leaves marks, although I've never really had a problem with these saw blades.
You just! My advice would be to buy 4 saw horse and make a full length (2400mm) table but in 2 sections. It's a bit big and heavy in one section and the hinges are a great addition but a bit complicated - which is why with 4 saw horses you can have two halves pushed (and even screwed if necessary) together. Also, 2 extra horses is an investment. You can never have enough lying around for when you need to support long sections of stuff or just for painting things on 👍🏻
Really tempted in making my Victorian window shutters like this but they need to be bi fold so the back will be visible when open. Would you make them out of thinner mdf? So both side would have the rails and stiles?
Hi Charlie, contemplating using MDF to replace my existing kitchen cabinet doors. Did you have any issues with warping using this method rather than the rail and stile method? I have the tools, just a lot of doors to be made and this would be a huge time saver. Also, would the preference be standard mdf or moisture resistant mdf? Love the videos, keep up the good work.
Adam Butters Just been reading the reviews on Axminster. Definitely worth a punt. Only downside I guess is that it goes off if you don't use it up once opened.
Hi Charli DIYE thank youfor all the videos but my problem is can’t hang the doir backbecause of topbit of the door help to fold/move how to put that back 🤔
tried many time to build them out of 1X4s and 1/4 " with nails and glue the 1X4s pulled from the 1/4" over time, ended up using screws with caps need to build some doors soon "particle board"
![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZIwNJGlVtwc/mqdefault.jpg)
Bless you for this. Been searching for ages for a way to make doors without all the routers & dados & rabbets etc!!!
Thank you Juliet. There's another take on it here ruclips.net/video/tdMnnkvInrE/видео.html but I did use a trim router to make the mouldings, but the doors were constructed the same way. 👍🏻
I panelled off an island that i made using that method. I nailed it with panel pins and a little stanley electric nail gun i bought off amazon. Thanks Charlie. God bless.
Thank you sooooooo much. I made a 'rough' closet for my mother months ago and left it without doors not conceiving how to make them. Your video was exactly what I needed. Perfect! Much needed. Now my mother will get doors for her closet. Every detail was needed especially making doors for cabinets that were not in square. Thanks.
You're welcome 👍
Built a whole shaker kitchen like this including tall doors for the pantry and it's still perfect 10 years later, hasn't moved a mm, no separation or anything, just about to refresh the farrow and ball paint this spring. Didn't use panel pins just glued and clamped.
Charlie!! You may be a DIYer but you're a master at instructional vids! Such clear explanations and I especially love your close-up shots, which must take time to set up, but are much appreciated. Your vids are by far the best for novices because you skip nothing and keep to the point, making every second worth watching. Great music too!! Thank you SO MUCH 💜
Absolutely love your videos. I find that too many others are using too much expensive equipment which would need a whole dedicated workshop. Thanks so much for showing how you do it. Have subscribed ☺️
Can't thank you enough for subscribing Claire, and for the lovely comment! That's the way I roll, and I'm not going to change it any time soon. Drop me a line if you ever have any queries 👍
the guy is very correct in making videos using basic tools.....because if a person has the expensive tools, more likely he is a professional....although not always the case
Thanks, I'm just a DIY'er at the end of the day who enjoys carpentry amongst other things, and I don't have a professional workshop so needs must! 👍
Great upload, i thoroughly enjoyed that.
I made myself a workbench using the Stanley sawhorses as shown in one of your previous uploads.
I made mine slightly smaller for easier portability. Its FANTASTIC!!
Thanks
D Lamb Brilliant - so glad to hear that. They're great aren't they - love mine. I'll be posting a vid soon with a couple of upgrades you might be interested in.
Great! A DIY woodworking channel that actually shows how to do the project as well as entertaining. Brings back memories of the New Yankee Workshop.
Thanks - I appreciate that!
Love the videos as usual. Never thought of using a sliding bevel. Also you are exactly right, all RUclipsrs have proper router tables etc. Us normal folk just don't have those sort of things. Thanks.
Thanks Nigel. Really chuffed you find them useful. Yep, I'm never upgrading my tools. It's not how I roll 😉
Our whole kitchen is constructed this way we did it ourselves, god knows how we got it right but 18 years later it's still perfect, just about to repaint it this year. We used green mdf because of moisture worries though, the rails and styles were thinner mdf and they were not fitted inset doors so easier to do.
Good to hear this design has longevity! I'm just about to embark on an epic bedroom wardrobe project. I've thought long and hard about doing the doors properly (with separate rails and stiles and an inset central piece) but I just can't be bothered with all the hassle, and this way is much more assessible to most DIYers because you don't need sophisticated tools to accomplish it. Thanks for getting in touch👍
Having watched this video and a few other I took the leap and ordered the material for my fitted cupboard. Finished it and it turned out pretty well for my first cupboard. Many a tips and recommendations came handed , Zinsser, panel doors to name a few! Thanks!!! Can’t attach a pic to show the result.
That's fantastic news. If you have a moment I'd love to see a picture or two, you can email me at charliediyte@gmail.com 👍
Just preparing to build a set of under stairs doors . Good ideas.
Good luck 👍🏻
Wow, full on respect Charlie. Would love to try these and may even pluck up the courage! Thanks for sharing all you do.
You're welcome. Here's a more comprehensive wardrobe series I did recently ruclips.net/p/PLyai2ugIzdZUIQAbe4V9i9sXi3fGqN8NR
Absolutely Fantastic! Exactly what the doctor ordered. Off to buy some MDF. Thanks Charlie
Looks great. You can put full length mirror on the inside, since they cover panels anyway. MDF also supposedly toxic when cutting/sawing it. So maybe use plywood instead - ion frame will accommodate it.
Yes, I did that here ruclips.net/video/tdMnnkvInrE/видео.html
Great to see a practical project using basic DIY tools and not using what you would expect to see in a small industrial unit! Good job Charlie! ;)
Mechanoid 57 Ha! That's exactly the point mate. Thanks for the comment!
yes it is great
Seems like a fantastic idea to countersink the countersinks further
Hi, this is apropos of nothing, but yours is the first channel I've found in a while to use use background music for the montages, that's actually pleasant, unintrusive, calming yet exciting.
Done my 1st of 8 doors I need to do today and it came out brilliant, couldn’t of done it without this video, thank you!
Hi Charlie another cracking video. I love the fact that you say things like 'carpenters say... but you don't need to.' I would love to have a full workshop and all the tools (I have tool envy about your tools) but I don't. I'm totally booked on your channel. Interestingly I made some mock maple usher doors for a kitchen under stair cupboard using funeral paint and train and I didn't pin the styles but they are still going strong 20 years later. Keep up the good work.
These DIY videos are probably the best I have seen on RUclips. Great job and thank you so much for teaching me! (Though some concern for safety would be good - using a respirator with MDF is important!)
Terrific video. Gives people confidence to tackle DIY projects with minimal tools. Yes I made it to the end.
Brilliant. I want to do this and you have given me the confidence to at least try. Thanks
Thanks John. I'm posting a series of videos over the next few weeks cataloguing a new wardrobe build, so you might keep an eye out for that. First one goes live this Saturday. 👍🏻
Another great video Charlie - and yes, I stayed for every last second 😉. I made some doors myself with a very similar method, substituting pine for the shaker stiles etc as I'm never keen fitting hinges to MDF, particularly on heavy doors.
Just one piece of feedback Charlie (and I don't always take my advice, so hands up), but you really need to use a suitable mask working with MDF, it really is nasty stuff and you only need one good lungful to have serious health consequences. I know you were using a vac inside, but belt and braces I'd recommend still using a mask.
Charlie, Thanks for this; i'm 65 and have been doing DIY for 45 years ! Have never made fitted wardrobe doors however, & so with your excellent (27 minute !) video I will now be able to.
The only bit that seems a little 'hit & miss' is the non square planing on the long edges ?
Hi Charlie, I use a slightly different method to you . I use contact adhesive , no clamping ,less waiting , waterproof glue . I find it's pretty good, and quick.
love the music when you're working
Thanks 👊
It adds on to the challenge, when things are not square where you expected it to be.
great way to make doors, I've got a project almost same as your video, I will use your method now, thanks for video, very well illustrated :)
I'm just working on a new project that you might be interested in ruclips.net/video/R1dKybdYyY8/видео.html
Bit late to the party but I thought I'd mention that it is always worth practicing a process called balancing.
Where you have laminated on your 'frame pieces's you might find the doors will cup towards the 'frame pieces'. Now if you were to add the same 'framework' to the back of the door this will balance the lamination.
When I do this style of door I use a 12mm central MDF sheet and laminate on both sides of the door using 6 mm MDF. You end up with a very strong and stable door. Some might call it the Theresa May.
I don't mean to take anything away from your method. At the end of the day you created something awesome and keep on creating. Just something I've found very helpful.
Thanks! Doing some cupboard in the garage but their's no reason why I can't make them look good, it will be great practice and I love the color you used on the doors in the next video
Thanks Eric. Glad you liked them! I think it was Farrow and Ball Studio Room Green, mixed by Johnstone's, because they're paint is better! 👍
Are they finished, lol? Victorian and toddler inspired finish are two different things. Love the idea, not too keen on the color and the worn Looks great. I think it’s all the white here in there that kind of mixer it look like it’s not been wiped.
Hiya Charlie, got to say you showed us all some great tips your an inspiration to us all.Good luck with any future project's, cheers m8 and may you & yours stay healthy & strong👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👌💪👋👋👋👋👋👋👋✌
Thanks Gazza. Really appreciate that!
Thanks to your videos, I have made my own fitted wardrobes (although I did make the mistake of not fully supporting the doors when I "shakered" them) and a plywood 2x4 sawhorse portable workbench. Looking forward to what you inspire me to make next! Cheers
hb4519 Thanks HB, and thanks for emailing me the photos - awesome work!
How have these held up Charlie?
This is my first attempt at making mock shaker style doors full length about 240cm for a tall wardrobe. Don't have a router to make the traditional way.
Have seen other videos of people doing similar with 12mm board and 6mm rails and stiles and people have said they've started warping after a short wile due to only one side holding the weight of rails and stiles, and also due to the pva (perbaps water in it) and not using MR MDF.
I am planning to use 18mm regular mdf with 6mm rails and stiles.
They've held up very well. This is the better video to watch ruclips.net/video/tdMnnkvInrE/видео.htmlsi=5rFQN7v7c0HOv3OV The warping happens when you make it, not afterwards as discussed in the video - and I know this as I've had the frustrating experience of doors warping. These doors and the ones in the video you've watched haven't moved one bit.
i saw some pros that couldnt get 45 angle that close with professional tools lol. I sub to your passion bru
Thanks mate! 👍
Love your videos! I need to make 2 - 600 x 210cm doors for my sons wardrobe. I have left over 12mm MDF from renovations but I thought it felt way too heavy to use as doors?
Thanks so much 🙏 It's what I use. Check out this series ruclips.net/video/tdMnnkvInrE/видео.htmlsi=M3_gmA5lKjELnZtx This is video 7 in the series but the one you need for the doors.
I use Mitre mate to stick the strips on the doors as you don't need clamps or pins. You've got to get them in position fairly quickly though!
Quick tip from a pro brother, if you use this system of fake panel doors? Use exterior mdf because the standard mdf tends to bow when you use pva glue! Failing that use pu glue or contact adhesive 👍👍👍👍good job👊
Thanks for that mate - makes sense, and that's why I clamped each piece down before nailing it. Yep, I'm going to start using moisture resistant MDF from now on. It's just not that readily available at the local timber merchants I use. 👍
Nice a tidy as always Charlie. With routers being so cheap now and saving buying trim a nice ogee bit will add a nice detail instead
That's a damn good point - I have a router and am not sure why I didn't think of that 🙄, although if I do this I'll have to do the rails and stiles in timber as I'm guessing the MDF grain would puff up and require a fair bit of sanding between coats.
This video is such a great find! Just one question, with this mismatch between pine and mdf, does it pose problems with the pines shrinkage down the line?
Thanks. No it hasn't although with my must recent build I routed the MDF to make the profile ruclips.net/video/R1dKybdYyY8/видео.htmlsi=7kLLg_lIckCiKkl6
Well, I have done very big and long doors in the past but with time they warp a little. Bottom is flash with frame but top is no longer flash. I typically trust Baltic birch ply better but it would very heavy. The door would not have a lot of usage (max 20 time a year). I saw you using MDF and I thought that would be good and it would not warp. I can use also MDO which is probably lighter. Please post a video for MDF screw use!!! I am sure it is going to be a great addition.
Will do!
Hi Charlie. Followed this brilliant video and have made two odd shaped doors for the attic rooms and a cupboard door. Even inserted a real wood filet to screw the hinges into due to weight as had to make 46mm thick to match the other doors. Think they’ll look great when painted and even saved myself £1,200 off quote from local sawmill. Cheers!
The only question I have is what to fill the punched nails and gaps with - two pack wood filler like you did, or polyfilla woodflex ready to apply which Is my go to wood filler?
Hi Charlie
Love your Chanel mate this is the 3rd time Iv watched this video just love the end result and it works perfectly
Thanks mate 👍👍👍👍
Thanks Carl, I really appreciate that, and so glad it's worked well for your project. Funnily enough I'm just building a new set as we speak for this project ruclips.net/video/QUtP1WuAQtQ/видео.html Made the same way although I'm routing the moulding but kind of wishing I'd done it the same way as in the video you've watched 😉
@@CharlieDIYte
Yes I’m up to date with all of you videos mate
Looking forward to you next 👍👍👍👍
Sheetrock hot mud is best and cheapest solution for pinholes in wood/MDF ;) Very good job m8!
Another great video Charlie ! I bet your house is amazing by now !
Thanks John. It's not unfortunately. Ironically with all the videos I don't actually get much done, such as our bedroom which we moved out of a year ago. Still on the plus side it generates plenty of content!
@@CharlieDIYte thanks for the quick reply Charlie ! I will be having a good root around your other videos now ! Keep up the great work..you are certainly a talented man in many areas !
Great vid, little tip I learnt when I worked in a pub fitters workshop in my teens, half dry tack your Stiles each end not sending the panel pin all the way home before you apply glue, then the tack goes back into same hole and there's no sliding on the glue👍
Have you tried "Evo Stick, polyurethane wood adhesive"? its in a green tube. It expands a little so if you have any small spaces it will fill it. I used it on some pelmet boxes I made some one I used nothing else. It is very very strong indeed and you only have to use a small bead because it does expand , Probably half what you used for those moldings.
typo ..evo stik :)
Great. You must have known that was my next project. Thanks Charlie.
Janet Diesnis Thanks Janet. I had a feeling it might be 🙂
Great work Charlie !!!! Watched the whole video !!!!
Thanks Marco 👍
Thanks for the excellent video. It gave me the confidence to tackle making some cupboards in my lounge, which I’m very pleased with. I followed your instructions to the letter, even using Blum hinges from Ironmongery direct. I also found a suitable moulding from The Range to give them a more traditional look. Your videos are now my go-to for anything DIY. Great stuff.
Very fast making furniture thumb up
Thanks. There's a new series here you might find interesting, that goes into more detail ruclips.net/video/R1dKybdYyY8/видео.html
Awesome! But why not put the nails in from the backside of the door?
You could certainly do that, and I've done that before with screws. You just have to be a bit more organised as it's obviously trickier to line up.
How do I create a cutting list for a large job to minimise waste. I want to make new kitchen doors and draws in exterior mdf, as I’m assuming it’s more water/moister resistant. Also can you offer advice on the best thickness of mdf to use. I’m looking to make shaker type like your wardrobe doors. I was thinking that if I use 12mm for the main door and add a 75 to 150 mm boarder in 12 mm to create a 24 mm thick door frame.
Watched all the way to the end! Yep definitely inspired, always keen to DIY but your videos show what is possible 👍
Hi Charlie, thanks for this video. You make things look easier than they are due to your experience and skills.
I'm looking for a sort of flat panel door like those commercial panel walls which would probably be just a flat sheet of MRMDF 1700 x 650 mm with a groove 5mm deep and 5mm wide in the middle. Do you believe 18mm would be ok or should I go thicker than that? My only concern with thicker would be having to install more hinges because of the weight. Thanks in advance for your time.
Hi Douglas, good to hear from you. I think you'll be fine with 18mm. You still want at least 3 - 4 hinges though, as they help stop the door warping, as do the door magnets.
@@CharlieDIYte brilliant Charlie, thank you very much for taking the time to reply. Specially in the holiday. Hope you have a great 2021.
Thanks
Hi Charlie, I am about to make a cabinet with shaker doors but was worried about the routing and so this method really appeals. I am worried about screwing in to the ends of the mdf though for the hinges. How did that go?
James take a look at this series bit.ly/2UfXY4B. I have routed the mouldings (you can just insert yours though) but what you want is the euro style concealed hinges. They screw into the back for an incredibly strong fixing
Great video. Easy to understand and follow the instructions. I am going to make these for closet bypass doors. The only question I have is why use brad nails? The glue should do the job all by itself.
You're right but I'd still tends to use nails - just to hold them down really whilst the glue sets. You can then lever them out and fill the tiny holes really easily.
Got all the way to the end mate
Nice one Tom - thanks mate👍
Hi Charlie, great video as always. Can I ask you why you didn't use the glue gun? Would you recommend this approach or not?
I'm not sure I had the glue gun when I did this video. The thing about the glue gun is that it's thicker so it will raise the moulding from the surface leaving a small gap behind. So you have to be a bit careful where you use it. I think good old pva is the best option for something like this. I'm just about to do doors for the current wardrobe series and I'm going to do away with moulding entirely by simply routing the edge. Remains to be seen how the end grain will look though. Might need a lot of paint.
thank you for the info. saved me so much frustration
You're welcome Scott and here's an update from a more recent project ruclips.net/video/tdMnnkvInrE/видео.html 👍
Morning Charlie. Please don't take offence when I ask this, but if you're using a circular saw cutting at 90° with a straight edge, why use a planer for the chamfer? Why not angle the saw blade by 6° & recut? I did a similar project in my hallway with 2 doors. The tops of the doors had to match the angle of the stairway. That was not easy. But eventually I got it to sit correctly. No handles, just the push-to-open thingys from ikea. Great video. G
Gary Furness Good point Gary. Partly habit I guess because this is the way I've always done it, but also because I'm essentially just trimming at this stage. My saw guide is a little thick on the base to turn the saw blade without cutting into the guide (I'll be making a new one soon with a thinner, ply base), and I guess I trust my planing more than the saw with this all important final cut. Also, not everyone's got a circular saw so I always try and make the videos as accessible as possible. That said, you've made a very good point and I'll probably give it a go next time 🙂
Nice video again Charlie, makes the amateur diy ‘er’ have confidence in giving it a go 😊 I’ll be using this way of making mock doors 🚪 when I replace the kitchen door fronts @ home 👍🏻
Great video, really liked the design alterations using double thickness stiles etc. Lot to be proud about and helping people think about how they can do the same with a small collection of tools. Thanks regards Mike
Mike S Thanks Mike, I really appreciate that, and thank YOU for taking the time to comment!
Great video, really helpful. Thank you!
You're very welcome Keira. I've done an in depth series on wardrobes starting with this one ruclips.net/video/R1dKybdYyY8/видео.html 👊
I will be copying this for my fitted wardrobe. Need to justify my track saw purchase.
Another great video. I’m inspired to finally crack on with a wardrobe project I’ve been putting off. I’m interested in your view on wether to use MDF cubes or timber frame for the carcass. I’d be building against a wall not in an alcove.
I think if you're going to paint it, there's no need to use timber.
Hey, great idea, what about using plywood? i hate painting mdf and priming it
You could certainly do that although it will be more expensive. I'll be posting the final video in my current wardrobe series ruclips.net/video/R1dKybdYyY8/видео.html in a week or two. Keep an eye out for that as it will be all about my most recent wardrobe door construction.
@@CharlieDIYte I worked with mdf and I hate how it sucks the glue like a sponge and the priming its such a pain, so I am thinking plywood would be way easier, a bit more expensive, but I think way faster.
Awesome doors! Excellent craftsmanship!
Great video. What is the purpose of the panel pins? I would have guessed that much glue is more than sufficient?
Thanks Chris. The panel pins are literally only to hold the panels in place whilst the glue is setting. Otherwise you're going to need a load of clamps, or something heavy to put on top, which is going to slow you down considerably.
Top video again Charlie! As a newcomer to DIY over the last year these videos are invaluable. 👍
19:42 - why did you not continue to use your exterior/interior PVA wood glue as you did from the start?
Hello Charlie, I often find when doing this sort of project that I end up spending good money on items that you cant really do without ie 2 part wood filler. After some experimenting I have found that car body filler appears to do exactly the same job and I think it actually dries a bit quicker and can be sanded within minutes on small depths. I have found large tins of it on Ebay at low prices, a 3.5ltr tin of U-pol is under £20 and I reckon it will last me years. Maybe give it a try and see what you think Regards Bob
Hi Charlie. Loved this project, mainly because I'm considering doing something similar to my back room airing cupboard. I was wondering why you didn't use ply wood for the main door and pine for the cross pieces? I was thinking of having the door stained rather than painted so that's why I was thinking of wood with some grain rather than MDF.
Thanks so much for the tips. By the way, I did have the circular saw blade too low while using my circular saw :-)...
Graham Watson Hi Graham. No reason. I guess just habit, and MDF is a little easier to work than ply 🤔 No reason why you shouldn't use it though. You and me both. I was close to binning the saw until a carpenter friend gave me the tip about the blade!!
OK Charlie, I'll have a think and let you know how I get on. Thanks for your posts they really help.
I need 7 of these doors! I felt it should be easy enough. Can the same doors be made w/wood not MDF? If so, could you give a parts list?
I did seven here ruclips.net/video/tdMnnkvInrE/видео.htmlsi=CPbV4kEee7niRGDk
Surprised you like Gripfill, Charlie, it's let me down enough times that I hate the stuff. Also didn't know you could plane mdf.
It's messy stuff to tool, I agree and there are better products out there that don't skin over like Gripfill does. Yes, it's easy to tool - have you seen my new wardrobe series ruclips.net/video/R1dKybdYyY8/видео.html
I can’t find a moulding to match the ones you used ! Closest I can find has a hard square profile on the outer edge rather than two rounded ones. Any ideas please on where I can get them? Thanks !❤
Have you got any timber merchants near by? You should be able to find something in a decent store.
This is the video I was looking for. With my basic tools, I am going to achieve what you achieved. Thanks a Million.
You're very welcome. There's also this video series ruclips.net/video/R1dKybdYyY8/видео.html 👊
I am interested on how you finished the doors. Did you need to fill all around the outer edge to hide the seam and the end of the Mdf?
Hi Michael. I painted the doors in this video ruclips.net/video/2YOASvodntU/видео.htmlNo, I didn't fill around the outer edge or on the MDF edges. People get quite hung up about MDF edges, but if you give them a few coats of paint sanding in between each, they look pretty good, and once you've hung them you'll never give them another glance. I certainly don't and I'm pretty OCD!
I’ve been meaning to ask what blade tooth count did you use to cut your mdf in this? It looks like a low tooth count? Did you get a few saw marks in the mdf edge?
It was a 24 tooth blade, although I tend to use a 40 tooth blade. That said, these days I always sand the edges before painting anyway as discussed here bit.ly/3wbEprJ, after planing the two 12mm surfaces flush, so it's kind of irrelevant if it leaves marks, although I've never really had a problem with these saw blades.
Very detailed, thank you
You're welcome. 👊
Another superb video Charlie, thanks for sharing buddy.
Russell Swindlehurst You're welcome mate. Thanks for the comment!
I'm interested to know how you knocked that workbench together using some trestles?
There's a video series on that Jason. Here's video 1 bit.ly/3xg0VjH It's been a game changer, that work bench. I use it all the time.
Thanks Charlie. Definitely a game changer! Will be knocking one up myself 😉
You just! My advice would be to buy 4 saw horse and make a full length (2400mm) table but in 2 sections. It's a bit big and heavy in one section and the hinges are a great addition but a bit complicated - which is why with 4 saw horses you can have two halves pushed (and even screwed if necessary) together. Also, 2 extra horses is an investment. You can never have enough lying around for when you need to support long sections of stuff or just for painting things on 👍🏻
Just found the style doors I will use on my next project. Cheers
You're welcome. Glad you found it useful!
You lost me at "thanks for watching" 😂
Top video as always
I love those old Erwing bar clamps
Really tempted in making my Victorian window shutters like this but they need to be bi fold so the back will be visible when open. Would you make them out of thinner mdf? So both side would have the rails and stiles?
Hello Charlie are you able to confirm what hinges you used?
Hi Charlie, contemplating using MDF to replace my existing kitchen cabinet doors. Did you have any issues with warping using this method rather than the rail and stile method? I have the tools, just a lot of doors to be made and this would be a huge time saver.
Also, would the preference be standard mdf or moisture resistant mdf?
Love the videos, keep up the good work.
I have just discovered an old skool adhesive called Cascamite.
I swear by it now. It is dirt cheap and exeptionally strong.
Look into it
Adam Butters Thanks Adam. I'll take a look!
Adam Butters Just been reading the reviews on Axminster. Definitely worth a punt. Only downside I guess is that it goes off if you don't use it up once opened.
considering basic tools but achivement is top love the video,
Ratch Riat Thanks mate - really appreciate that!
Nice video again Charlie 👍🏻 I’m going to be using this style of door 🚪 when I change the kitchen door fronts 😊 keep up the videos 👍🏻
Justin Dow Thanks Justin - will do, and good luck with the kitchen project!
What size MDF were used for the door and panels?
You're a true DIY inspiration :-)
Cheers mate. Building now wardrobes right now ruclips.net/video/R1dKybdYyY8/видео.html 👍🏻
You are the MDF KING
Hi Charli DIYE thank youfor all the videos but my problem is can’t hang the doir backbecause of topbit of the door help to fold/move how to put that back 🤔
I'm afraid I don't quite follow what you're saying there 🤔
Great video Charlie thank you for the tips you have picked up through your own experiences.
Excellent job and great video.........thank you
You're welcome mate. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Nicely done.
Harpreet Singh Thanks mate!
Good job Charlie, enjoyed watching this thanks.
Paul M Thanks Paul - appreciate that!
tried many time to build them out of 1X4s and 1/4 " with nails and glue the 1X4s pulled from the 1/4" over time, ended up using screws with caps need to build some doors soon "particle board"
Steven here's a video from my recent wardrobe build series that might help ruclips.net/video/tdMnnkvInrE/видео.html