Are you sure you’re using your power tools safely? Avoid the most common (and dangerous) mistakes! Get your FREE guide here 👉 bit.ly/10PowerToolMistakes
As a novice to wood working, this content is gold. I’m sure it’s useful to non novices as well, but I cant express how much confusion each of your videos clears up for a novice. Thanks dude.
Scroll along, I’ve got nothing useful to say other than that I really appreciate how clearly and calmly you explain everything in an unbiased, well grounded manner. Thank you :)
I used to use MDF all the time for building speaker enclosures (mostly to house subwoofers in cars). Its weight was actually an advantage there, and I would still recommend it for audio speaker enclosures.
@@baqoyevogabek2864notice how he said for subwoofers Those put out a lot of vibration force and like recoil on a gun, the heavier the gun, the less recoil it has. You don't want your subs shaking around a lot
i like the exposed plywood edge too, put some linseed oil on it and design the build to accentuate the contrasting laminations and the build can really pop. Box joins where hidden at one time since they where undesirable after all.
Check out the work by the guy from Greece who does a lot of cast epoxy. He cuts plywood into strips and glues them together end on. He gets “automatic” finger joints for drawers and the striped face of drawer fronts look amazing when resin sealed.
MDF can be joined by using long screws with dowels across the grain as barrel nuts or use actual barrel nuts and bolts. Ikea do this all the time where visible screw heads are acceptable and the nuts are hidden.
I agree. I have seem some truly breathtaking projects made with the edges in full display and if done properly and sanded smooth, they are very striking.
I really liked this video. I work at a lumber/plywood/tools hardware store (not Lowe's or home Depot it's privately owned) and to be honest this is more training on plywood than I've gotten in 4months work experience. I'm the plywood guy and I work in the plywood bay, it's just me and only me for 4 months, it's just me working there and most of the time I can help customers but every now and then I get people talking about certain things I just don't understand and this video taught me a lot more than my boss ever has. Thanks :) will subscribe to learn more
I know this was 2 years ago, but I just want to say how much I appreciate somebody who wants to learn more about the product they sell at retail. Many people just get the minimum training and then stop without trying to gain more knowledge about the topic.
I went to school for art, and I grew to love mdf for its smooth finish. We used it under acrylic when we would mill pieces. We would also use it for sculpture, as you can use scrap pieces that are still extremely flat, glue them up, sculpt, then cover with fiberglass resin to essentially make a very durable and heavy solid sculpture. my friend and I started making speaker boxes out of it and quickly learned about the layers splitting out.
So my first time here and my first impression was: He's pretty honest with the explanation. And then I looked at the the channel's name. Good work mate!
Nice straight forward explanation! In Brazil we use mostly mdf. They have this melamine material that comes in virtually all colors and grains designs that are just really modern looking. Since our cabinet projects include mostly straight lines and flat surfaces, just about every project is 90% mdf (white melamine for the boxes of the inside of cabinetry and wood or decorative melamine for the doors, drawer fronts, sides and so on). Oh and there are all kinds of edge tape and aluminum trim for everything also. Our sheets are very large, 6x9 or 10, but we use bigger table saws, actually I think they're called panel saws, with one moving table. One other thing, they do make this water resistant mdf (which is of this green substrate, or red for fire repellent), but still only for interior projects. Exterior mdf is available, but really expensive.
Makes sense. Brazil is more constant and mild weather. May as well use mdf more. Same in the Netherlands, although it's very wet it holds up in interior applications. The major thing though is American houses use a ton of wood and it's been my experience they sweat a ton to the interior in damp weather.
I’m a consumer and I am contemplating of buying a furniture with MDF. Is this a safe material? I have read somewhere that it gas off formaldehyde. Thanks
@@demammoet O brasil é muito grande, tem todos tipos de climas que quiser , mas o padrão é o mesmo ... Mas quem faz o movel durar É o dono ! ... Era bom fazer um video orientando os Donos dos Moveis , por que muitos são sacanas e tentam destruir e dizer que é culpa da má qualidade do material ... Seria como usar um MDF comum na area do banheiro ... rsrsrsrs Sempre cobra pelo o que é certo , mas o cliente nunca aprova o orçamento , tendo condições ou não , opitam pelo mais barato ... chegando até no MDP, diferente do MDF
@@muuzikk vai usar o MDF em qual lugar ? compra ele laminado sempre ! , assim evita o problema com úmidade ... MDF puro sem lamina Raramente usamos ... somente máximo Estrutura ...
Just my opinion but I have found that the biggest advantage of MDF is that it perfectly flat and void of defects. So you get the entire sheet to work with, and you don't have to work around knots and voids. I have made many jigs using it, and my table saw extension tables are doubled up 3/4" MDF covered by a plastic panel material, making cutting sheet goods a breeze. And when it comes to fastening I try to incorporate dados, rabbets, and grooves to help support the material. Then glue and screw as usual. And if you are really concerned, Confirmat (RTA) screws are made specifically for MDF. Good video, thanks.
When it comes to outdoor uses, you can get maritime-grade plywood, which is expensive, but basically impervious to water damage. And it is available in all sorts of great looking finishes.
Marine plywood is not necessarily treated for outdoor use. The glue is waterproof though. Untreated marine ply is typical and gets resin saturated in boat building to protect itself. Untreated works better with resin.
Thank you-good job. I actually like making drawers out of 1/2 inch Baltic birch plywood. The exposed edges route/sand very well. The occasional void is easily filled and poly urethane provides a nice- unobjectionable finished appearance.
Hey guys! Name something that is better than FREE? We are offering FREE products including oscillating tool blades to talented people such as yourself to try out our products. All we ask in return is to provide a 4 or 5 star review on Amazon after you’ve tried it! We send you the money including tax to purchase the item on Amazon, and you try it and make the review! It's as simple as that! We have the highest quality and largest selection of adult toys that you won't get enough of! Reply Yes to to proceed.
Pros and cons to both. It mostly boils down knowing the limitations and characteristics of the material. MDF is an amazing product when used properly. You can easily get a full 8’ span in MDF without sagging, just a torsion box with 12mm MDF and 18/25mm internals. Edging is easily overcome with paintable edge banding. Dust is the biggest drawback , MDF dust is cancenogeic (probably next generation asbestos), But is stable, paints well. Machines well. Bottom line, you can do great long term high end jobs with it. If you know your trade.
One use of MDF where it has an advantage over plywood is in speaker cabinets. Either for household or vehicle use. It does a much better job of minimizing cabinet vibrates and has been a great budget option for speaker enclosures.
The acoustic advantages of MDF over plywood are barely measurable, let alone hearable. I still prefer using plywood for speaker cabinets, as you can simply oil or stain it.
I actually like to glue a thinner plywood piece to a thinner MDF piece, and generally get a nice combination of the benefits of both. Glue a decent piece of actual wood on the outer edges, and for things like shelves it's great.
I've made my own plywood out of leftovers of fine, exotic and domestic, hardwoods, from my instrument building or furniture building, because I really like the look of plywood edges on certain projects.
Totally agree, it comes to another level when you glue waste ply together, then turn it on a lathe, good rub down with sandpaper (Through the grades) then coat with bees wax, it looks well!
Thank you VERY MUCH for your time and expert advice. I am a beginner DIY and the reason that I use MDF is the lower price. Furthermore, if I screw up, it doesn't cost me as much to start over. I do agree with you when you say that plywood is much stronger and that plywood holds screws much better than MDF. I really enjoyed your video ! ! Cheers from Canada,Polar Bear country.
I was shocked to learn that the baseboards in our new house are MDF. That was not a problem until there was a tiny leak in the utility room. The MDF swelled up and split, and then grew mold, all within a couple of months. I replaced the baseboard in the utility room with real wood.
Awesome video! In addition, Regular wood and Plywood sawdust and chips (even treated grades) can be discarded in your garden as a decent soil amendment. Degrades nicely over time and holds some extra moisture for your plants. MDF dust on the other hand, is a complete no-go for plants and earthworms. Speaking from experience 😁
I think your video is mind-opening and reassuring. Thank you a lot indeed! I've been working with MDF for years,now next time I'm at the board seller I'll check the density of the plywoods available and seek out the least porous sides to prevent humidity seeping in. Thumbs up.
Although you mentioned it, the dust factor needs to be really stressed when working inside. Effective dust collection and air filtration is a must. MDF dust gets everywhere. Plywood dust (or conventional wood dust), not so much. Wear a face mask when processing MDF! And keep it on for a long time after the machines have stopped. Your lungs will thank you....
great video i just picked up 3 sheets of white oak plywood to make subwoofer enclosures for my hometheater....im thinking on just urathane them when done ..
I've used Medex for my kitchen doors and Extira for OUTSIDE. Very hard MDF, and water resistant. Had a sample sitting in a bucket of water for weeks before committing to the product.
One point worth consideration, MDF is the preferred sheet good for speaker cabinets due to higher density and lower stiffness which dampens cabinet resonances.
MDF is the preferred *inexpensive* sheet good for speakers. As LBCAndrew rightly points out, Baltic birch ply has been and continues to be the standard for speaker enclosures of a serious calibre.
I have always used either dimensional lumber or plywood due to their inherent strength. That being said if I needed a stable surface I would certainly consider using MDF. I liked this tutorial and I think you covered all of the pros and cons thoroughly. Thanks for sharing this.
Totally agree with everything you just said. I'd just like add from out of bounds that many of the similar down falls of the MDF also exist in the OSB realm. I don't care how much they want to sell that it's engineered. In a few years it has the same moisture problems as MDF. Whether inside out out.
Yep, pretty much anything with glue, Dave. OSB they at least have some grades with acceptable weather exposure time frames (it's printed on that stamp on OSB sheets). But, given enough moisture, it'll just peel to pieces.
Arogsy Console uses MDF and their professional console desks hold up well for years. Theres people using the same console desk for 15 to 20 years. MDF is pretty much the standard in all high end studio furniture.
Just apply a sealant to the MDF or OSB or Chipboard or any other wooden composite material. You really should seal plywood too, if you don't want it to delaminate, warp and split. It's not rocket science, sheesh!
Yes, same thing here in New Zealand, the humidity alone turns the MDF into Weetbix. I suppose you would need to run a dehumidifier constantly if one wanted to use MDF. I avoid MDF at all costs!
I still remember the first time I cut a 4x8 sheet of MDF down in my basement with a circular saw. OMG what a mess. The dust in the air was unreal. It inspired me to purchase a track saw with proper dust extraction. What a difference. With that setup I can cut MDF all day long with almost zero mess. What a marvel.
Thanks James, I, not in a situation where I need to choose between the two materials, but I'm a,ways up for more knowledge about carpentry. I'm going to be building an MTB (Mountain bike) kicker/jump out of wood soon for myself (I've made several simpler ones with my neighbor), and I'll beep using thin plywood for the sides, as well as top and bottom, and I'll use 2"x3" for the "ribs" of the jump. I don't like how MDF turns into that "toxic dust", I definitely don't want to breathe that stuff in. I'm just going to steer clear of the stuff, I don't do much sod working at all, mostly just at really small scales. Another thing is, for my ramp, it's going to be curved (this way you can really get a good pop off the lip, and hone in your jumping technique), and plywood is, well, ,ore playable then other options. I might soak the plywood before screwing it onto the ramp, as this will make it more flexible and less likely to crack.
I got inspired to watch this by watching wood turning videos and then looking at my shelves made from mdf and wondering if they ever use that leftover material in such a way. It's fun how you go down these rabbit holes sometimes.
Exceptional thank you. I was thinking about learning to use MDF for some projects (some low rent rolling cabinetry for myself) and some other stuff outside. Now that I know it will only stay indoors. I can't wait to use both!
I use mdf for panels on painted cabinet door panels with maple rails and styles gives smooth finish after priming, for stained cabinets they have mdf core maple which provides stable panels
Perfect video on these two very different products. 20 year carpenter and painter. Couldn't have done a better job explaining all this to a new guy than you, even though I know every bit of what you explained. Great video. Thanks.
I built a table saw cabinet out of MDF. I radiused the edges and filled the edge pores with drywall compound. Sand, spray prime and spray paint and it can be mistaken for formed steel. It comes out very smooth. I also like the added weight for holding my table saw. Great video!
I’m noticing a lot of bathroom vanities are made of mdf. How much should I be concerned about steam from a shower with an mdf vanity? Thank you for your time!
3 года назад+41
It would be nice if you "updated" this video with an "MDF vs OSB vs plywood" video.
@@lightbulb1982 MDF and OSB are both produced from wood by-products. MDF is sawdust, glued and compressed. OSB is wood chips, glued and compressed. Both are used for various construction purposes, but I would take OSB over MDF if I had a roof to replace, or subfloor to put in. Appearance wise, I would consider MDF for shelving, if I had to put in a shelf for low stress use. OSB doesn't offer the visual appeal.
I'm a recent subscriber to your channel. Although I'm an amateur woodturner, I have learned a lot about wood and building materials, certain tools, and do's/don't from your channel. Thanks so much for sharing! 👍🏾
I really like mdf.. even better if you can find it hdf.. I just wish it wasn’t so heavy! For smaller projects I go mdf. For larger ones I’m going to have to move and install I go plywood. But the final finishing if mdf is sooooo much easier and faster then plywood. Long as you edge band the mdf with plywood like say a face from for a cabinet.. I’ll build the cabinet from mdf over plywood all day. But then an upper unit I’ll build from plywood and then use mdf for doors and drawers if doing something like raised panels cause it finishes and shapes so nice. I also like the fact that mdf comes oversized so you actually get what you’re paying for as well as getting a true 3/4” thickness so layouts and measurements are way faster and easier. The last thing is I tend to screw plywood together where mdf I use a lot more brads and finish nails.. especially around the edges. When I can I’ll get some hdf for these areas as it will hold a screw even better then ply to the point if you don’t ore drill you’ll snap the screw head off every time. If you’ve never tired you can stain mdf.. not the same way but you can get some interesting looks and finishes with it. Shellac makes for a nice finish on mdf actually but a lot of your clearish finishes take nicely to mdf and give a really unique look. Like an odd brown marble counter top top look lol
I'm a young painting contractor, and though I haven't spent a lot of time building, I am exposed to a lot of renovation work. I agree with you in the sense that plywood is better than mdf is almost all situations. MDF is amazing for both floor and door trim, and works really well when applied as cleats for shelving. It finishes is extremely well, and can be really durable when paired with sturdier finish coats. (Such as Benajamin Moore's Advance line) One application I see MDF used that I would highly recommend NOT using it for is shelving. Although it finishes really well and is durable, after several years MDF will start to sag/bow in the center of the shelves. Otherwise it can be a really amazing trim product, and would still highly recommend it for anything non-structural such as shiplap!
Yup. It is inevitable/axiomatic that an MDF shelf will droop over time. Even if you never place anything on it, MDF cannot support even its own weight.
Wishing I could hire you. In my time I've hired three carpenters. All were dishonest using bait & switch pricing. The last one was so bad, he took thievery to a new level. He installed a Jeld Wen exterior door from HD. He attached the door with a few tacks and that was all. I read the instructions. It said nails or screws 16" from the bottom & top. Then splitting the difference in the middle on both sides. He never bothered to switch out the 3/4 " screws on the hinges with 2 1/4 " as recommended. I did all the required work he should of done. Let's move on to the storm door. He only screwed what was showing. The screws going into the jam were non existent. I fixed those per specs also. Sad thing, both doors came with the screws recommended as part of the purchase. I won't even speak about the hack job he did on top cutting out for the new door. No sense on speaking of the doubling of pricing. With the shortage of carpenters nowadays. I was willing to let it slide this time. But I'll never hire him again.
Great video with clear and concise explanation! I use MDF in the past to make speaker cabinets, but after I had to put some veneer or paint. With good quality plywood, I will be able to stain or varnish them to a much better looking effect. Thanks for your efforts.
Just cut out about 7 different sized shelves from a sheet of MDF…. what a pain!! Wish I would have watched this video beforehand. I would have spent more money for plywood for an easier, cleaner process. Great info!
Just worked with MDF for the first time. Built a shop cabinet. Finished product looks great, BUT was very difficult to put together. Went with using dowels as the fasteners AND my god finished product was Heavy to get in place. Appreciate your video and channel, I am a novice and certainly appreciate the advise/instruction and comments.
What I've found is when using MDF often it is necessary to clean blades and router bits more often. Yes, plywood has glue too but MDF has much more. Easy enough to do just have to remember to up the frequency (no its not that your blade is getting dull)
A couple of other things help too. First, get the right tablesaw blade. Don't use just any old crappy combination blade you pick up at HD or Lowe's. Get a good Freud or Forrest high tooth count combination carbide tipped blade. Clean it frequently. And by frequently, I mean after every occasion where you saw plywood or MDF or relatively green lumber. I even go so far as to wax my tablesaw blades. Then again, I live in an area of extreme humidity so I have to in order to prevent rust. But it's a good idea for any woodworker with the time./inclination.
I came here to look for information about the best one to use, since I’m renovating my room and Im kinda in a small budget so this really helps . Thanks.
I've been building with wood my entire life. The only thing that I have found mdf is good for us flight cases for instruments. That's all I really use it for. Plywood is a great building material. I use osb sparingly. Too many woodworkers opt for easy. They also seemed to have forgotten how to bend wood. The one thing I've noticed in over 50 years is the rise in black mold. Osb and the like do not have the natural defenses even plywood has. It turns to crap pretty quickly when exposed to moisture. They have their use, in very limited places. My dad was an amazing woodworker and he would laugh at that stuff. He said you use a tree you get the strength of a tree. You use wood scraps you get the strength of scraps. You use saw dust you get the strength of saw dust. Chips and saw dust went into a barrel. It was used to start bon fires.
You've done a very good job and a very comprehensive presentation my friend.. The only thing I used to use mdf back in the nineties, was when we needed to build cheap flat cabinet doors with routered edges.. it gives you a smooth finish look and if it's sprayed primer an two coats of paint it looked great.. we even made raised panel cab doors imitation... a lot of router work... and all that dust that came with... Now days cabinet doors are very economical... thank God... and we only use mdf for shelving sometimes..
As you said, it depends. For stability and flatness, I prefer MDF. For strength and durability, I prefer plywood. Since so many have expressed a preference for plywood, allow me to share a few common applications where MDF excels: Bench and counter tops. My workbench is made of two layers of 3/4" MDF. I'm not worried about dinging up the MDF because the edges are wrapped in a solid wood apron and the MDF top surface is covered by 1/8" hardboard. I've had the workbench more than 15 years and the top looks as good as it did when new (except for the glue, oil, and paint stains). The top is dead flat and is very stable. I also prefer MDF for counter tops where I'm going to be using a plastic laminate. MDF produces a dead flat, smooth surface that laminate just loves. Another place I often prefer MDF is workshop jigs. In many jigs, stability and flatness are at a premium. So, I use MDF. If durability is a concern, I laminate the surface and band the edges. But, more often than not, a coat of shellac or lacquer is all that's needed. I have plenty of jigs made with plywood, but a lot of them are a mixture of MDF and ply. Lastly, as pointed out in the video, screws and other typical fasteners may not work too well with MDF. However, there are fasteners (including screws) designed for MDF. If you use those, the joint should be as durable as any you'd make with plywood.
I just took apart a desk that was particle board and MDF with a veneer. Sauder, I think. It was racking and the guy who owned it put screws in the side to stabilized it. Didn't work. I had it temporarily but was so glad to get rid of it. It's always interesting to take apart furniture (I sometimes salvage wood) and see the construction. I will be keeping the desk top, however. It was made of MDF and is nice and flat, so will make a good assembly table. The only way I've used MDF is for shop furniture tops, due to the flatness and cost. For my router table top, I laminated a nice thick piece of formica with formica. It's held up well. I drilled dog holes into a workbench top made from MDF and don't care if it gets "beaten up" when I use it. I've used a lot of cabinet grade plywood, with cherry and maple veneer. It's a joy to work with. The older furniture grade plywood was even better. I salvaged some from old furniture and used it to make my shop furniture. Thicker than 3/4" and machined beautifully. Home Depot used to carry decent hardwood plywood, but doesn't anymore. Too bad, it was great.
I worked for a construction company that specialized in insurance claim work back in the 90's. We we residing buildings and doing rot repair for 5 years because of MDF siding. It's like a gremlin...Never get it wet. :)
We made plywood countertops for "Houston's" restaurant corporate offices (Phx, Az). The architect spec'd them to be 1.5" thick & a clearcoat finish. It looked great.
It does paint really well, Thomas. I use 1x2 pine trims to screen it, and the whole thing comes out looking very uniform. But I try to not to rip down full sheets--I just go with half sheets as much as possible, or the longer 11-7/8 pieces. That cuts out a lot of the dusty work with the table saw😪
@@TheHonestCarpenter You can get moisture resistant and fire retardant MDF and dust extraction is advised with all timber and MDF cutting and sanding. The moisture-resistant green MDF boards are excellent for fine routing and detailing/finishing. Even better is the fibralux Black HDF.
I used MDF for shelving in my shed. Big, huge mistake; it ended up looking likes ocean waves within a few months. I ripped it all out and went back to plywood and it's lasted years. I consider MDF to mimic blotting paper. If there is moisture about MDF gets really thirsty. For shelving inside the house etc then MDF has proved to be fine and easier to prep for painting wheras ply needs edging which ranks the price up ! I think you got it spot on in your video.
It's no longer that much cheaper than plywood in my experience. Maybe five bucks a sheet for 3/4" vs. single smooth face birch ply. At most ten bucks a sheet for the better quality birch ply. It's really a no-brainer as far as I'm concerned unless there is a very specific reason to use MDF , such as molding, wainscoating, routed panels, that sort of thing. Even then that application can't be the least bit structural.
Enjoyed the video Ethan. That was interesting.I'm more old school since I'm older anyway. Never used MDF much at all. I have replaced allot that was used for trim on the exterior of homes. I have some on my on outside storage buildings that needs replacing now. Y'all stay well, take care and God bless.
I like using true 1" thick MDF for jigs, like an upright extension for the table saw fence. It's flat and stable, and measurements are simply exactly 1" off.
Excellent review. Extremely informative and technical too. Keep up your good work. Due to climatic reasons at equatorial region with humidity around 70% to 80% most of the time, I prefer solid hard wood. Thanks you very much. Really enjoyed your video.
I limit my use of MDF to well-supported surfaces where FLAT and SMOOTH are key, e.g., sacrificial layer on top of my work bench or sawing surfaces (even Festool does this) and for jigs, sacrificial fences on table saws, and miter gauge extensions. I haven’t build any panels with it (yet), but it should be good for decorative work that is well sealed and not exposed to a lot of hard wear.
"chip board & particle board " Totally suck for any type of application in which they might be exposed to moisture . They absorb moisture like a sponge and cutting either with a table saw and particularly a handsaw REALLY Sucks & requires a full face shield and respirator . My gripe moment over and time for a Heineken . Great video once again Honest Carpenter .
Thanks Quantum! Couldn’t agree more. I could never even come up with a good shop system for handling the dust volume. I mostly just tried to let the wind take it away whenever possible
I am a plywood manufacturer in SEA, currently exporting my products to US. Just found your video today and It really gives me more of an understanding how US market actually used the plywood and the technical difficulty when they are working with plywood. Thank you so much for your video I've learned a lot. Keep up the good work, will sure keep an eye on your channel for more great content.
I found MDF dulled blades a lot faster than plywood. Whenever I used MDF, I never used screws. Just wood glue and a finish nail gun that is mainly used to hold it together until the glue dries.
The company making that MDF should invest in some fiber and chip cleaning machinery. Good quality MDF or particleboard won't dull your blades any faster than plywood or lumber.
One nice thing about MDF is that the flatness works great for veneering. I have done a tabletop with a 3/4 plywood, added a layer of MDF on top and the veneer over the MDF. The 3/4 plywood supplies rigidity and the MDF a nice smooth surface to apply the veneer. The resulting weight insure the table doesn't move around at the slightest touch. The plywood also gives good anchorage for knockdown hardware.
I am new to woodworking and I am so thankful for this video! I had no idea about the differences and you were so thorough and addressed every question I had! Thank you, thank you!
Soon I'm going to make a small work table for small wood projects. It sounds like MDF would be a great choice for the work surface: heavy and very flat. Thanks for the video!
it is crap ,forget it unless you will use it as cheap sheathing to be covered with another material like Tyvek house wrap and or masonry products or vinyl siding.
Joan Snow yes indeed. I hope you watched and learned anyway. Are you doing carpentry work now? I love my tools and creating beautiful spaces. By day I’m a minister and pastoral counselor, but working with my hands on remodeling is my destresser.
I did learn a great deal, by watching and talking.to my dad. I hv budget limitations so I DIY 99% of the time. Creating and making things is peaceful, and good for the soul
Are you sure you’re using your power tools safely? Avoid the most common (and dangerous) mistakes! Get your FREE guide here 👉 bit.ly/10PowerToolMistakes
As a novice to wood working, this content is gold. I’m sure it’s useful to non novices as well, but I cant express how much confusion each of your videos clears up for a novice. Thanks dude.
Well said
Same here!
This didn't make much sense the first time I watched this a year ago. Having worked with both during lockdown, I can't agree with this video more.
Thanks for following up, Lets Build! 😄
"The only source of knowledge is experience."
~Albert Einstein
@@xyzct "I didn't say anything I am quoted as saying." - Albert Einstein
@@flagmichael “I like to wear dresses.” -Einstein
@@Will-ge7ri “I am smarter, I am better, I am BETTER!”
- Albert Einstein
Scroll along, I’ve got nothing useful to say other than that I really appreciate how clearly and calmly you explain everything in an unbiased, well grounded manner. Thank you :)
I used to use MDF all the time for building speaker enclosures (mostly to house subwoofers in cars). Its weight was actually an advantage there, and I would still recommend it for audio speaker enclosures.
how can weight be advantage if it is installed on a car, something lighter would be more I guess better
@@baqoyevogabek2864notice how he said for subwoofers
Those put out a lot of vibration force and like recoil on a gun, the heavier the gun, the less recoil it has.
You don't want your subs shaking around a lot
Sometimes I feel like the only person in the world who actually loves the layers along plywood edges, totally happy to have them on display!
Eklipze3k Baltic Marine Grade Birch Plywood is gorgeous!
i like the exposed plywood edge too, put some linseed oil on it and design the build to accentuate the contrasting laminations and the build can really pop. Box joins where hidden at one time since they where undesirable after all.
Check out the work by the guy from Greece who does a lot of cast epoxy. He cuts plywood into strips and glues them together end on. He gets “automatic” finger joints for drawers and the striped face of drawer fronts look amazing when resin sealed.
MDF can be joined by using long screws with dowels across the grain as barrel nuts or use actual barrel nuts and bolts. Ikea do this all the time where visible screw heads are acceptable and the nuts are hidden.
I agree. I have seem some truly breathtaking projects made with the edges in full display and if done properly and sanded smooth, they are very striking.
I really liked this video. I work at a lumber/plywood/tools hardware store (not Lowe's or home Depot it's privately owned) and to be honest this is more training on plywood than I've gotten in 4months work experience. I'm the plywood guy and I work in the plywood bay, it's just me and only me for 4 months, it's just me working there and most of the time I can help customers but every now and then I get people talking about certain things I just don't understand and this video taught me a lot more than my boss ever has. Thanks :) will subscribe to learn more
I know this was 2 years ago, but I just want to say how much I appreciate somebody who wants to learn more about the product they sell at retail. Many people just get the minimum training and then stop without trying to gain more knowledge about the topic.
Great video. One thing that MDF is good for is jigs -- anything where you need a REALLY smooth edge.
MDF works great for pressing jig because they are not hard and distribute pressure pretty evenly.
I use it as a guide for circular saw
Or templates.
@@paulmood308 Exactly. Jigs, fixtures, and templates.
I just planning to make my first table saw jig, this comment definitely helps me what to choose. Thank you so much
I went to school for art, and I grew to love mdf for its smooth finish. We used it under acrylic when we would mill pieces. We would also use it for sculpture, as you can use scrap pieces that are still extremely flat, glue them up, sculpt, then cover with fiberglass resin to essentially make a very durable and heavy solid sculpture.
my friend and I started making speaker boxes out of it and quickly learned about the layers splitting out.
I kinda like how the edge of plywood looks haha. I've seen woodworkers create furniture purposefully showing the edge, and I think it looks great!
So my first time here and my first impression was: He's pretty honest with the explanation. And then I looked at the the channel's name. Good work mate!
Nice straight forward explanation! In Brazil we use mostly mdf. They have this melamine material that comes in virtually all colors and grains designs that are just really modern looking. Since our cabinet projects include mostly straight lines and flat surfaces, just about every project is 90% mdf (white melamine for the boxes of the inside of cabinetry and wood or decorative melamine for the doors, drawer fronts, sides and so on). Oh and there are all kinds of edge tape and aluminum trim for everything also. Our sheets are very large, 6x9 or 10, but we use bigger table saws, actually I think they're called panel saws, with one moving table. One other thing, they do make this water resistant mdf (which is of this green substrate, or red for fire repellent), but still only for interior projects. Exterior mdf is available, but really expensive.
Makes sense. Brazil is more constant and mild weather. May as well use mdf more. Same in the Netherlands, although it's very wet it holds up in interior applications.
The major thing though is American houses use a ton of wood and it's been my experience they sweat a ton to the interior in damp weather.
I’m a consumer and I am contemplating of buying a furniture with MDF. Is this a safe material? I have read somewhere that it gas off formaldehyde. Thanks
Same goes for the higher end clients in the dominican republic
@@demammoet O brasil é muito grande, tem todos tipos de climas que quiser , mas o padrão é o mesmo ... Mas quem faz o movel durar É o dono ! ... Era bom fazer um video orientando os Donos dos Moveis , por que muitos são sacanas e tentam destruir e dizer que é culpa da má qualidade do material ...
Seria como usar um MDF comum na area do banheiro ... rsrsrsrs
Sempre cobra pelo o que é certo , mas o cliente nunca aprova o orçamento , tendo condições ou não , opitam pelo mais barato ... chegando até no MDP, diferente do MDF
@@muuzikk vai usar o MDF em qual lugar ? compra ele laminado sempre ! , assim evita o problema com úmidade ...
MDF puro sem lamina Raramente usamos ... somente máximo Estrutura ...
Just my opinion but I have found that the biggest advantage of MDF is that it perfectly flat and void of defects. So you get the entire sheet to work with, and you don't have to work around knots and voids. I have made many jigs using it, and my table saw extension tables are doubled up 3/4" MDF covered by a plastic panel material, making cutting sheet goods a breeze. And when it comes to fastening I try to incorporate dados, rabbets, and grooves to help support the material. Then glue and screw as usual. And if you are really concerned, Confirmat (RTA) screws are made specifically for MDF. Good video, thanks.
In the UK we have an exterior grade of MDF available. I used it for a bird feeder, the material is not very attractive but so far it is surviving.
It's just nice to hear someone talk about something they know
When it comes to outdoor uses, you can get maritime-grade plywood, which is expensive, but basically impervious to water damage. And it is available in all sorts of great looking finishes.
Marine plywood is not necessarily treated for outdoor use. The glue is waterproof though. Untreated marine ply is typical and gets resin saturated in boat building to protect itself. Untreated works better with resin.
Literally learned carpentry from this dude. One of my favorites
🤔
Thank you-good job. I actually like making drawers out of 1/2 inch Baltic birch plywood. The exposed edges route/sand very well. The occasional void is easily filled and poly urethane provides a nice- unobjectionable finished appearance.
Hey guys! Name something that is better than FREE?
We are offering FREE products including oscillating tool blades to talented people such as yourself to try out our products.
All we ask in return is to provide a 4 or 5 star review on Amazon after you’ve tried it!
We send you the money including tax to purchase the item on Amazon, and you try it and make the review! It's as simple as that! We have the highest quality and largest selection of adult toys that you won't get enough of!
Reply Yes to to proceed.
@@vankzeng5161 I keep pushing the Yes button but nothing is happening.
polyurethane glue? like gorilla glue? rookie here. thanks!
Where have you been all my life
Very easy to understand and wealth of knowledge
Thank you
Thank you
THANK YOU
Pros and cons to both. It mostly boils down knowing the limitations and characteristics of the material. MDF is an amazing product when used properly. You can easily get a full 8’ span in MDF without sagging, just a torsion box with 12mm MDF and 18/25mm internals.
Edging is easily overcome with paintable edge banding.
Dust is the biggest drawback , MDF dust is cancenogeic (probably next generation asbestos),
But is stable, paints well. Machines well.
Bottom line, you can do great long term high end jobs with it. If you know your trade.
*carcinogenic
Which is better for bedroom Mdf or plywood ?
One use of MDF where it has an advantage over plywood is in speaker cabinets. Either for household or vehicle use. It does a much better job of minimizing cabinet vibrates and has been a great budget option for speaker enclosures.
The acoustic advantages of MDF over plywood are barely measurable, let alone hearable. I still prefer using plywood for speaker cabinets, as you can simply oil or stain it.
I actually like to glue a thinner plywood piece to a thinner MDF piece, and generally get a nice combination of the benefits of both. Glue a decent piece of actual wood on the outer edges, and for things like shelves it's great.
Great idea. do you cover the entire sheet in wood glue when bonding them.
I didn't know plywood could take screws on the borders. This means a lot more possibilities for many projects I have in my mind. Thank you!
I've made my own plywood out of leftovers of fine, exotic and domestic, hardwoods, from my instrument building or furniture building, because I really like the look of plywood edges on certain projects.
Totally agree, it comes to another level when you glue waste ply together, then turn it on a lathe, good rub down with sandpaper (Through the grades) then coat with bees wax, it looks well!
i too thought I was the only one
Now I know when I need plywood or MDF. this explanation was so precise and simple yet detailed. Thank you so much
Thank you VERY MUCH for your time and expert advice. I am a beginner DIY and the reason that I use MDF is the lower price. Furthermore, if I screw up, it doesn't cost me as much to start over. I do agree with you when you say that plywood is much stronger and that plywood holds screws much better than MDF. I really enjoyed your video ! ! Cheers from Canada,Polar Bear country.
I was shocked to learn that the baseboards in our new house are MDF. That was not a problem until there was a tiny leak in the utility room. The MDF swelled up and split, and then grew mold, all within a couple of months. I replaced the baseboard in the utility room with real wood.
I have seen vinyl wrapped moldings which are used a lot in motor home actually disintegrate into sawdust when windows or roofs leak.
Imagine your surprise when, in the future, there is another leak and your 'real wood' is destroyed too....Water ruins everything it touches.
Awesome video! In addition, Regular wood and Plywood sawdust and chips (even treated grades) can be discarded in your garden as a decent soil amendment. Degrades nicely over time and holds some extra moisture for your plants. MDF dust on the other hand, is a complete no-go for plants and earthworms. Speaking from experience 😁
Wow that's a new one for me...thanks!
I think your video is mind-opening and reassuring. Thank you a lot indeed! I've been working with MDF for years,now next time I'm at the board seller I'll check the density of the plywoods available and seek out the least porous sides to prevent humidity seeping in. Thumbs up.
Although you mentioned it, the dust factor needs to be really stressed when working inside. Effective dust collection and air filtration is a must. MDF dust gets everywhere. Plywood dust (or conventional wood dust), not so much. Wear a face mask when processing MDF! And keep it on for a long time after the machines have stopped. Your lungs will thank you....
great video i just picked up 3 sheets of white oak plywood to make subwoofer enclosures for my hometheater....im thinking on just urathane them when done ..
Only use mdf when 100% certain it won't get wet. Ever.
Or you can use HMR which is essentially MDF but water resistant.
I've used Medex for my kitchen doors and Extira for OUTSIDE. Very hard MDF, and water resistant. Had a sample sitting in a bucket of water for weeks before committing to the product.
Well thats what i was thinking!!
@@kaikart123 I just recently became aware of HMR. I've never seen it sold in Canada.
will it be ok to buy an mdf table in a fully air-conditioned room? l
One point worth consideration, MDF is the preferred sheet good for speaker cabinets due to higher density and lower stiffness which dampens cabinet resonances.
High end speakers use baltic birch plywood, usually with a veneer.
MDF is the preferred *inexpensive* sheet good for speakers. As LBCAndrew rightly points out, Baltic birch ply has been and continues to be the standard for speaker enclosures of a serious calibre.
I have always used either dimensional lumber or plywood due to their inherent strength. That being said if I needed a stable surface I would certainly consider using MDF. I liked this tutorial and I think you covered all of the pros and cons thoroughly. Thanks for sharing this.
Which is better for bedroom Mdf or plywood ?
thank you sir, every town need a honest carpenter.
Totally agree with everything you just said. I'd just like add from out of bounds that many of the similar down falls of the MDF also exist in the OSB realm. I don't care how much they want to sell that it's engineered. In a few years it has the same moisture problems as MDF. Whether inside out out.
Yep, pretty much anything with glue, Dave. OSB they at least have some grades with acceptable weather exposure time frames (it's printed on that stamp on OSB sheets). But, given enough moisture, it'll just peel to pieces.
Arogsy Console uses MDF and their professional console desks hold up well for years. Theres people using the same console desk for 15 to 20 years. MDF is pretty much the standard in all high end studio furniture.
Just apply a sealant to the MDF or OSB or Chipboard or any other wooden composite material. You really should seal plywood too, if you don't want it to delaminate, warp and split.
It's not rocket science, sheesh!
Which is better for bedroom Mdf or plywood ?
Thanks for your opinion. I enjoy building speaker cabinets and my no. 1 choice is Birch plywood for its looks and sound quality when properly braced.
I live on the Texas Coast, so humidity is always high, even with painting, MDF doesn't seem to last long and will start to swell after a short time.
Yes, same thing here in New Zealand, the humidity alone turns the MDF into Weetbix. I suppose you would need to run a dehumidifier constantly if one wanted to use MDF. I avoid MDF at all costs!
I live in Ontario, and even here the humidity messes up MDF, if you live near a lake or something. Largely switched to OSB here.
I still remember the first time I cut a 4x8 sheet of MDF down in my basement with a circular saw. OMG what a mess. The dust in the air was unreal. It inspired me to purchase a track saw with proper dust extraction. What a difference. With that setup I can cut MDF all day long with almost zero mess. What a marvel.
spot on, mdf is for interior, mainly decorative work
Great video. People need to understand they are compromising on quality and durability when they buy cheap furniture.
Thanks James, I, not in a situation where I need to choose between the two materials, but I'm a,ways up for more knowledge about carpentry. I'm going to be building an MTB (Mountain bike) kicker/jump out of wood soon for myself (I've made several simpler ones with my neighbor), and I'll beep using thin plywood for the sides, as well as top and bottom, and I'll use 2"x3" for the "ribs" of the jump.
I don't like how MDF turns into that "toxic dust", I definitely don't want to breathe that stuff in. I'm just going to steer clear of the stuff, I don't do much sod working at all, mostly just at really small scales. Another thing is, for my ramp, it's going to be curved (this way you can really get a good pop off the lip, and hone in your jumping technique), and plywood is, well, ,ore playable then other options. I might soak the plywood before screwing it onto the ramp, as this will make it more flexible and less likely to crack.
I got inspired to watch this by watching wood turning videos and then looking at my shelves made from mdf and wondering if they ever use that leftover material in such a way. It's fun how you go down these rabbit holes sometimes.
Exceptional thank you. I was thinking about learning to use MDF for some projects (some low rent rolling cabinetry for myself) and some other stuff outside. Now that I know it will only stay indoors. I can't wait to use both!
Finally someone speaking regular English. 🙏🏼
I use mdf for panels on painted cabinet door panels with maple rails and styles gives smooth finish after priming, for stained cabinets they have mdf core maple which provides stable panels
Straight to the point, no nonsense, all meat and potatoes, big thumbs up to you mate! Really appreciated
plywood with glued/nailed solid wood on the edges will always be my choice.
Perfect video on these two very different products. 20 year carpenter and painter. Couldn't have done a better job explaining all this to a new guy than you, even though I know every bit of what you explained. Great video. Thanks.
I built a table saw cabinet out of MDF. I radiused the edges and filled the edge pores with drywall compound. Sand, spray prime and spray paint and it can be mistaken for formed steel. It comes out very smooth. I also like the added weight for holding my table saw. Great video!
Which is better for bedroom Mdf or plywood ?
I’m noticing a lot of bathroom vanities are made of mdf. How much should I be concerned about steam from a shower with an mdf vanity?
Thank you for your time!
It would be nice if you "updated" this video with an "MDF vs OSB vs plywood" video.
I agree. Or, do an MDF vs. OSB video.
@@oldfart269 Apples and oranges. Nothing to compare too
@@lightbulb1982 MDF and OSB are both produced from wood by-products. MDF is sawdust, glued and compressed. OSB is wood chips, glued and compressed. Both are used for various construction purposes, but I would take OSB over MDF if I had a roof to replace, or subfloor to put in.
Appearance wise, I would consider MDF for shelving, if I had to put in a shelf for low stress use. OSB doesn't offer the visual appeal.
@@oldfart269 I actually disagree, I quite like the "rough" vibe you can get with natural osb.
I really don’t think OSB belongs in this comparison. OSB is really for rough carpentry not interior shelves, cabinets or built-ins.
I'm a recent subscriber to your channel. Although I'm an amateur woodturner, I have learned a lot about wood and building materials, certain tools, and do's/don't from your channel. Thanks so much for sharing! 👍🏾
I really like mdf.. even better if you can find it hdf.. I just wish it wasn’t so heavy! For smaller projects I go mdf. For larger ones I’m going to have to move and install I go plywood. But the final finishing if mdf is sooooo much easier and faster then plywood. Long as you edge band the mdf with plywood like say a face from for a cabinet.. I’ll build the cabinet from mdf over plywood all day. But then an upper unit I’ll build from plywood and then use mdf for doors and drawers if doing something like raised panels cause it finishes and shapes so nice. I also like the fact that mdf comes oversized so you actually get what you’re paying for as well as getting a true 3/4” thickness so layouts and measurements are way faster and easier. The last thing is I tend to screw plywood together where mdf I use a lot more brads and finish nails.. especially around the edges. When I can I’ll get some hdf for these areas as it will hold a screw even better then ply to the point if you don’t ore drill you’ll snap the screw head off every time. If you’ve never tired you can stain mdf.. not the same way but you can get some interesting looks and finishes with it. Shellac makes for a nice finish on mdf actually but a lot of your clearish finishes take nicely to mdf and give a really unique look. Like an odd brown marble counter top top look lol
Never heard a better clearer explanation/comparison of the two. Thanks!
I'm a young painting contractor, and though I haven't spent a lot of time building, I am exposed to a lot of renovation work. I agree with you in the sense that plywood is better than mdf is almost all situations. MDF is amazing for both floor and door trim, and works really well when applied as cleats for shelving. It finishes is extremely well, and can be really durable when paired with sturdier finish coats. (Such as Benajamin Moore's Advance line) One application I see MDF used that I would highly recommend NOT using it for is shelving. Although it finishes really well and is durable, after several years MDF will start to sag/bow in the center of the shelves. Otherwise it can be a really amazing trim product, and would still highly recommend it for anything non-structural such as shiplap!
Yup. It is inevitable/axiomatic that an MDF shelf will droop over time. Even if you never place anything on it, MDF cannot support even its own weight.
Which is better for bedroom Mdf or plywood ?
I had a contractor doing a rehab for me that used MDF for window trim and closet shelving and it worked perfectly. Looks great
Very good comparison. In my case, being 81 years old, you miss to mention the heavy weight of something made of mdf vs play wood
He did mention it in the video
Wishing I could hire you. In my time I've hired three carpenters. All were dishonest using bait & switch pricing. The last one was so bad, he took thievery to a new level. He installed a Jeld Wen exterior door from HD. He attached the door with a few tacks and that was all. I read the instructions. It said nails or screws 16" from the bottom & top. Then splitting the difference in the middle on both sides. He never bothered to switch out the 3/4 " screws on the hinges with 2 1/4 " as recommended. I did all the required work he should of done. Let's move on to the storm door. He only screwed what was showing. The screws going into the jam were non existent. I fixed those per specs also. Sad thing, both doors came with the screws recommended as part of the purchase. I won't even speak about the hack job he did on top cutting out for the new door. No sense on speaking of the doubling of pricing. With the shortage of carpenters nowadays. I was willing to let it slide this time. But I'll never hire him again.
Plywood is always my choice over MDF.
Great video!
Take care
Thanks Sandra! 😄
You covered the topic nicely. I am not a professional woodworker. I prefer plywood for interiors for all the reasons you have given.👍
Great video with clear and concise explanation! I use MDF in the past to make speaker cabinets, but after I had to put some veneer or paint. With good quality plywood, I will be able to stain or varnish them to a much better looking effect. Thanks for your efforts.
Just cut out about 7 different sized shelves from a sheet of MDF…. what a pain!! Wish I would have watched this video beforehand. I would have spent more money for plywood for an easier, cleaner process. Great info!
As a skateboard builder l use maple veneers, l glue myself, so actually l make my own plywood :) l just love it
That's cool, Pascal! Maple is a great hardwood--pretty too :)
@@TheHonestCarpenter yes indeed! And with every purchase, l buy a tree planting for less than 1€...take care!
Just worked with MDF for the first time. Built a shop cabinet. Finished product looks great, BUT was very difficult to put together. Went with using dowels as the fasteners AND my god finished product was Heavy to get in place. Appreciate your video and channel, I am a novice and certainly appreciate the advise/instruction and comments.
What I've found is when using MDF often it is necessary to clean blades and router bits more often. Yes, plywood has glue too but MDF has much more. Easy enough to do just have to remember to up the frequency (no its not that your blade is getting dull)
Couldn't agree more, on all counts. They both have their place, they both outshine each other depending on how you're using them.
when i cut ply, i tend to put painters tape over the area im gonna cut to prevent tearout. also just cut it slow helps too.
Also, if you're cutting it on a table saw, you may want to get a zero clearance insert to prevent the tearout.
Same
A couple of other things help too. First, get the right tablesaw blade. Don't use just any old crappy combination blade you pick up at HD or Lowe's. Get a good Freud or Forrest high tooth count combination carbide tipped blade. Clean it frequently. And by frequently, I mean after every occasion where you saw plywood or MDF or relatively green lumber. I even go so far as to wax my tablesaw blades. Then again, I live in an area of extreme humidity so I have to in order to prevent rust. But it's a good idea for any woodworker with the time./inclination.
I came here to look for information about the best one to use, since I’m renovating my room and Im kinda in a small budget so this really helps . Thanks.
I've been building with wood my entire life. The only thing that I have found mdf is good for us flight cases for instruments. That's all I really use it for. Plywood is a great building material. I use osb sparingly. Too many woodworkers opt for easy. They also seemed to have forgotten how to bend wood. The one thing I've noticed in over 50 years is the rise in black mold. Osb and the like do not have the natural defenses even plywood has. It turns to crap pretty quickly when exposed to moisture. They have their use, in very limited places. My dad was an amazing woodworker and he would laugh at that stuff. He said you use a tree you get the strength of a tree. You use wood scraps you get the strength of scraps. You use saw dust you get the strength of saw dust. Chips and saw dust went into a barrel. It was used to start bon fires.
Damn ,I just built my first work bench in my garage with a mdf surface so I could have it super leveled for working, do you think that was a mistake?
@@MOAON_AABE nope, mdf is a good material for bench tops. Even festool uses it for their bench
@@xeren45 that makes me feel so much better about my decision, thanks for sharing that with me
You've done a very good job and a very comprehensive presentation my friend..
The only thing I used to use mdf back in the nineties, was when we needed to build cheap flat cabinet doors with routered edges.. it gives you a smooth finish look and if it's sprayed primer an two coats of paint it looked great.. we even made raised panel cab doors imitation... a lot of router work... and all that dust that came with...
Now days cabinet doors are very economical... thank God... and we only use mdf for shelving sometimes..
As you said, it depends. For stability and flatness, I prefer MDF. For strength and durability, I prefer plywood. Since so many have expressed a preference for plywood, allow me to share a few common applications where MDF excels:
Bench and counter tops. My workbench is made of two layers of 3/4" MDF. I'm not worried about dinging up the MDF because the edges are wrapped in a solid wood apron and the MDF top surface is covered by 1/8" hardboard. I've had the workbench more than 15 years and the top looks as good as it did when new (except for the glue, oil, and paint stains). The top is dead flat and is very stable. I also prefer MDF for counter tops where I'm going to be using a plastic laminate. MDF produces a dead flat, smooth surface that laminate just loves.
Another place I often prefer MDF is workshop jigs. In many jigs, stability and flatness are at a premium. So, I use MDF. If durability is a concern, I laminate the surface and band the edges. But, more often than not, a coat of shellac or lacquer is all that's needed. I have plenty of jigs made with plywood, but a lot of them are a mixture of MDF and ply.
Lastly, as pointed out in the video, screws and other typical fasteners may not work too well with MDF. However, there are fasteners (including screws) designed for MDF. If you use those, the joint should be as durable as any you'd make with plywood.
Love this comment. They really are two different products that have different best uses.
In other words, if you cover MDF with wood or plastic, it is almost as good as wood or plastic? Got it. Thanks.
I just took apart a desk that was particle board and MDF with a veneer. Sauder, I think. It was racking and the guy who owned it put screws in the side to stabilized it. Didn't work. I had it temporarily but was so glad to get rid of it. It's always interesting to take apart furniture (I sometimes salvage wood) and see the construction. I will be keeping the desk top, however. It was made of MDF and is nice and flat, so will make a good assembly table.
The only way I've used MDF is for shop furniture tops, due to the flatness and cost. For my router table top, I laminated a nice thick piece of formica with formica. It's held up well. I drilled dog holes into a workbench top made from MDF and don't care if it gets "beaten up" when I use it.
I've used a lot of cabinet grade plywood, with cherry and maple veneer. It's a joy to work with. The older furniture grade plywood was even better. I salvaged some from old furniture and used it to make my shop furniture. Thicker than 3/4" and machined beautifully. Home Depot used to carry decent hardwood plywood, but doesn't anymore. Too bad, it was great.
Your explanation really answered all the concerns I had. I really appreciate your video. Thank you!
I worked for a construction company that specialized in insurance claim work back in the 90's. We we residing buildings and doing rot repair for 5 years because of MDF siding. It's like a gremlin...Never get it wet. :)
Holy shit, I never knew they had so much difference with each other, thanks a lot!
We made plywood countertops for "Houston's" restaurant corporate offices (Phx, Az).
The architect spec'd them to be 1.5" thick & a clearcoat finish. It looked great.
That's the ultimate. That's how I built the tabletop for my router table. It is dead flat, and will always be dead flat, both top and bottom.
Honestly, I like the way that MDF looks for a painted project, but the dust problem is a real barrier to using it.
It does paint really well, Thomas. I use 1x2 pine trims to screen it, and the whole thing comes out looking very uniform. But I try to not to rip down full sheets--I just go with half sheets as much as possible, or the longer 11-7/8 pieces. That cuts out a lot of the dusty work with the table saw😪
@@TheHonestCarpenter You can get moisture resistant and fire retardant MDF and dust extraction is advised with all timber and MDF cutting and sanding. The moisture-resistant green MDF boards are excellent for fine routing and detailing/finishing. Even better is the fibralux Black HDF.
@@crimson777king - what store in the US sells those items?
This is incredbly useful information, loving your channel man, I'm learning so much!
I agree, MDF has fewer uses than plywood.
I used MDF for shelving in my shed. Big, huge mistake; it ended up looking likes ocean waves within a few months. I ripped it all out and went back to plywood and it's lasted years. I consider MDF to mimic blotting paper. If there is moisture about MDF gets really thirsty. For shelving inside the house etc then MDF has proved to be fine and easier to prep for painting wheras ply needs edging which ranks the price up ! I think you got it spot on in your video.
Plywood is my choice. Always considered MDF as cheap cost cutting alternative that moisture always finds it.
It's no longer that much cheaper than plywood in my experience. Maybe five bucks a sheet for 3/4" vs. single smooth face birch ply. At most ten bucks a sheet for the better quality birch ply. It's really a no-brainer as far as I'm concerned unless there is a very specific reason to use MDF , such as molding, wainscoating, routed panels, that sort of thing. Even then that application can't be the least bit structural.
Really helpful for a DIY beginner
Enjoyed the video Ethan. That was interesting.I'm more old school since I'm older anyway. Never used MDF much at all. I have replaced allot that was used for trim on the exterior of homes. I have some on my on outside storage buildings that needs replacing now. Y'all stay well, take care and God bless.
Thanks Ron! I've done tons of that same MDF trim replacement. Crazy how many houses out there have it.
I like using true 1" thick MDF for jigs, like an upright extension for the table saw fence. It's flat and stable, and measurements are simply exactly 1" off.
Excellent review. Extremely informative and technical too.
Keep up your good work.
Due to climatic reasons at equatorial region with humidity around 70% to 80% most of the time, I prefer solid hard wood.
Thanks you very much. Really enjoyed your video.
How does marine grade plywood hold up? It isn't generally rot resistant but it shouldn't fall apart.
I love how you present good and useful information!!! So many other videos take 15 minutes to give 5 minutes of information. Thanks!!
I limit my use of MDF to well-supported surfaces where FLAT and SMOOTH are key, e.g., sacrificial layer on top of my work bench or sawing surfaces (even Festool does this) and for jigs, sacrificial fences on table saws, and miter gauge extensions.
I haven’t build any panels with it (yet), but it should be good for decorative work that is well sealed and not exposed to a lot of hard wear.
So what did You use to hold down a sheet of MDF as a work surface if screws aren't the best?
Super helpful comparison, thanks for the video! I recently bought my first house so I'm learning a lot about DIY projects. :)
"chip board & particle board " Totally suck for any type of application in which they might be exposed to moisture . They absorb moisture like a sponge and cutting either with a table saw and particularly a handsaw REALLY Sucks & requires a full face shield and respirator .
My gripe moment over and time for a Heineken . Great video once again Honest Carpenter .
Thanks Quantum! Couldn’t agree more. I could never even come up with a good shop system for handling the dust volume. I mostly just tried to let the wind take it away whenever possible
I am a plywood manufacturer in SEA, currently exporting my products to US. Just found your video today and It really gives me more of an understanding how US market actually used the plywood and the technical difficulty when they are working with plywood. Thank you so much for your video I've learned a lot. Keep up the good work, will sure keep an eye on your channel for more great content.
I found MDF dulled blades a lot faster than plywood. Whenever I used MDF, I never used screws. Just wood glue and a finish nail gun that is mainly used to hold it together until the glue dries.
The company making that MDF should invest in some fiber and chip cleaning machinery. Good quality MDF or particleboard won't dull your blades any faster than plywood or lumber.
Which is better for bedroom Mdf or plywood ?
@@MMYLDZAre you telling me plywood dulls blades faster than MDF?
@@EpicBenjo No, what I meant was good quality mdf and plywood will have identical dulling.
@@hocineted7594 Depends on the type of furniture. If it's simple straight furniture, particleboard is best, if it's milled and painted, mdf.
One nice thing about MDF is that the flatness works great for veneering. I have done a tabletop with a 3/4 plywood, added a layer of MDF on top and the veneer over the MDF. The 3/4 plywood supplies rigidity and the MDF a nice smooth surface to apply the veneer. The resulting weight insure the table doesn't move around at the slightest touch. The plywood also gives good anchorage for knockdown hardware.
That is a good use for MDF. I only use it in very special situations, not as a "go to" material.
Information dense: I appreciate that.
I am new to woodworking and I am so thankful for this video! I had no idea about the differences and you were so thorough and addressed every question I had! Thank you, thank you!
Now this is a very clear and informative video. Great job!
Soon I'm going to make a small work table for small wood projects. It sounds like MDF would be a great choice for the work surface: heavy and very flat. Thanks for the video!
Can you also talk about the Oriented Strand Board (OSB), its usage, limitation, comparison?
it is crap ,forget it unless you will use it as cheap sheathing to be covered with another material like Tyvek house wrap and or masonry products or vinyl siding.
Cheap, and and generally more sensitive to water, I personally don't like the stuff much it can often be rather splintery when you handle it as well.
Great Video... One more thing I read this week that MDF is more fire resistant than un-treated plywood.
Plywood smells better, used to love hanging with my dad when he was woodworking.
Didn’t/wouldn’t teach me bc I’m a girl, my how things have changed
Joan Snow yes indeed. I hope you watched and learned anyway. Are you doing carpentry work now? I love my tools and creating beautiful spaces. By day I’m a minister and pastoral counselor, but working with my hands on remodeling is my destresser.
I did learn a great deal, by watching and talking.to my dad.
I hv budget limitations so I DIY 99% of the time.
Creating and making things is peaceful, and good for the soul
Lee Valley in Canada has weekend courses for females. Introduction to tools , and projects as well. Times have changed for the better !