The reason some of the bolts have a lighter shade may be due to the hardness and hardening process which has changed the metals lattices and will logically then be less porous and more dense. Possibly. :)
Towards the end I was thinking that you were going to bake them, turning the oil to a moisture proof black finish. Has this ever been tried? I doubt a normal oven can be use when the wife is shopping, but a butane flame might work.
I sometimes bake them under an infrared curing lamp just to drive the oil a little deeper. But they don’t need baked, the zinc phosphate is a porous finish on the metal and this soaks up the oil.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer Now this reply is staggering; I have 2xIR lamps in the bathroom and 2x1920's motorbikes in the shed that need Parkerised nuts and bolts. I ride them regularly and have just painted the fasteners till now. Paint works,,, just. I am rebuilding my 39SQ4 after years and, well, if I can accidentally ride it through rain without concern to its Patina, Terrific! Thank you ,,,,,,
I use a medium wave paint curing lamp for heating (I have a video on simple source of personal shop heat). But if you get the bolts wet, whether they've been baked or not, they will probably rust. I've never tried it, it just depends how much of the oil is washed off in the process. So don't get your hopes up too much :)
I use rustolem rust dissolver does the same thing, is readily available in many retail stores is less expensive than the product you promote. Come in quart size and gallon size. It is reusable and leaves a protective coating on bare steel if you don’t want to coat with something more. My understanding of real parkerized metal is not this. My two cents.
I have no idea what is in their rust dissolver. I can say this product contains a detergent, zinc phosphate and a high level of phosphoric acid, more than most rust treatment products. Parkerizing is simply a process of cleaning metal and depositing a sacrificial layer of zinc phosphate or manganese phosphate mediated by an acid such as phosphoric acid. The phosphate layer, in addition to being sacrificial so it corrodes first instead of the metal, is also porous so it absorbs oil applied to it. It’s not a matter of “real” or fake Parkerizing, the final chemistry is all the same, but this gets you there faster and in fewer steps.
I've tested spraying bolts and nuts with high heat paint (ceramic paint) and it worked very well. It didn't effect the threading of the bolts at all and it didn't make it harder to turn. They didn't scratch either. Also, they don't seem to rust on my offroad car.
you could have used some rusty bolts instead of clean bolts, am i the only person who noticed this? i mean you put either new bolts or sand blasted bolts in the bowl, they had 0 rust on them zero rust.
The reason I blast them first is because it makes the process a lot faster. If they go in rusty they need to soak overnight. If they’re blasted first it only takes 2 hr to get a decent zinc phosphate coat. For some metals, the longer they sit in acid the more brittle they become. This is especially problematic for things like springs.
No, oxide coating is a little different chemistry. The zinc phosphate is a sacrificial coating that black oxide is not. Sacrificial meaning it will corrode instead of the metal.
I’m not sure exactly how long. It depends if the hardware is exposed to weather and moisture or if it is sheltered and protected. It also depends how long the oil is able to stay on it versus getting rubbed off, etc. For some perspective, I have some bolts treated with this method sitting on a project car, which is currently sitting in a three sided shed so one side is completely open to the elements. those bolts have been sitting out on it for several months now and they look completely fine. Hardware that is stored indoors or inside the car will probably stay good for years.
Make sure when refinishing old bolts that some bolts should be replaced with new ones due to tension specifications and possibly stresses in the old bolts. So always make sure to define which ones to replace and which ones to refurbish. Probably replace the high tension bolts used in the crucial parts of the engine, compared to a bolt just holding a bumper or a seat etc.
I’ll let you know when that “immediately” happens. But it’s been over a year. Hardware like this will last many years. You have no idea what you’re talking about.
@@dickbutt7854 you’re doing something wrong then. My hardware will last years. Some hardware even sat on the truck in an open sided shed through an entire winter and never rusted.
The reason some of the bolts have a lighter shade may be due to the hardness and hardening process which has changed the metals lattices and will logically then be less porous and more dense. Possibly. :)
I live for stuff like this 🙌
Thanks a ton for showing us how!
I deactivate them with baking soda and water.
Towards the end I was thinking that you were going to bake them, turning the oil to a moisture proof black finish. Has this ever been tried? I doubt a normal oven can be use when the wife is shopping, but a butane flame might work.
I sometimes bake them under an infrared curing lamp just to drive the oil a little deeper. But they don’t need baked, the zinc phosphate is a porous finish on the metal and this soaks up the oil.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer Now this reply is staggering; I have 2xIR lamps in the bathroom and 2x1920's motorbikes in the shed that need Parkerised nuts and bolts. I ride them regularly and have just painted the fasteners till now. Paint works,,, just. I am rebuilding my 39SQ4 after years and, well, if I can accidentally ride it through rain without concern to its Patina, Terrific! Thank you ,,,,,,
I use a medium wave paint curing lamp for heating (I have a video on simple source of personal shop heat). But if you get the bolts wet, whether they've been baked or not, they will probably rust. I've never tried it, it just depends how much of the oil is washed off in the process. So don't get your hopes up too much :)
@@TheScientistHayFarmer Thanks. It is so good to talk these problems with others. I mean that REAL parkerising scares me not to try. mm
@@TheScientistHayFarmer Where is the video? Please/thanks
I use rustolem rust dissolver does the same thing, is readily available in many retail stores is less expensive than the product you promote. Come in quart size and gallon size. It is reusable and leaves a protective coating on bare steel if you don’t want to coat with something more.
My understanding of real parkerized metal is not this. My two cents.
I have no idea what is in their rust dissolver. I can say this product contains a detergent, zinc phosphate and a high level of phosphoric acid, more than most rust treatment products.
Parkerizing is simply a process of cleaning metal and depositing a sacrificial layer of zinc phosphate or manganese phosphate mediated by an acid such as phosphoric acid. The phosphate layer, in addition to being sacrificial so it corrodes first instead of the metal, is also porous so it absorbs oil applied to it. It’s not a matter of “real” or fake Parkerizing, the final chemistry is all the same, but this gets you there faster and in fewer steps.
What blast media do you use? Fine Glass Bead?
Aluminum oxide
Unless the manual, or whatever you are using to get official specs, specifically calls for a wet torque, all torques should be done dry.
Naw bud, all holes need to be wet.
Can you use that solution over and over or is it a one time use? And can I use my ospho for this or should I get the same exact stuff you're using?
It’s reusable many times. This contains zinc phosphate and a detergent which ospho does not, so you cannot get a true phosphatization with ospho.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer ok thank you. I’ll pick up the right stuff 👍🏻
I've tested spraying bolts and nuts with high heat paint (ceramic paint) and it worked very well. It didn't effect the threading of the bolts at all and it didn't make it harder to turn. They didn't scratch either. Also, they don't seem to rust on my offroad car.
I’ve started powder coating to mimic a zinc finish. But I parkerize where I want a natural metal look.
So heat does only make the parkerization process faster but the surface not more durable against wear and tear?
Heat makes most chemical reactions proceed faster but it doesn’t make it more durable.
you could have used some rusty bolts instead of clean bolts, am i the only person who noticed this?
i mean you put either new bolts or sand blasted bolts in the bowl, they had 0 rust on them zero rust.
The reason I blast them first is because it makes the process a lot faster. If they go in rusty they need to soak overnight. If they’re blasted first it only takes 2 hr to get a decent zinc phosphate coat. For some metals, the longer they sit in acid the more brittle they become. This is especially problematic for things like springs.
Is the solution used here the same as an oxide? (For black oxide coating)
No, oxide coating is a little different chemistry. The zinc phosphate is a sacrificial coating that black oxide is not. Sacrificial meaning it will corrode instead of the metal.
How long will this process help to prevent the bolts for corroding and rusting again?
I’m not sure exactly how long. It depends if the hardware is exposed to weather and moisture or if it is sheltered and protected. It also depends how long the oil is able to stay on it versus getting rubbed off, etc. For some perspective, I have some bolts treated with this method sitting on a project car, which is currently sitting in a three sided shed so one side is completely open to the elements. those bolts have been sitting out on it for several months now and they look completely fine. Hardware that is stored indoors or inside the car will probably stay good for years.
I store sheet metal in the white with a transmission fluid coating. Good for about 3 years.
Can it be used oil in that 3rd step?
Yes it probably could. Used oil is just dirty.
Interesting topic. Boring video.
Most of my videos are boring.
Make sure when refinishing old bolts that some bolts should be replaced with new ones due to tension specifications and possibly stresses in the old bolts.
So always make sure to define which ones to replace and which ones to refurbish.
Probably replace the high tension bolts used in the crucial parts of the engine, compared to a bolt just holding a bumper or a seat etc.
Those will rust immediately.
I’ll let you know when that “immediately” happens. But it’s been over a year. Hardware like this will last many years. You have no idea what you’re talking about.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer just speaking from personal experience. Sorry to hurt your ego.
@@dickbutt7854 you’re doing something wrong then. My hardware will last years. Some hardware even sat on the truck in an open sided shed through an entire winter and never rusted.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer probably am doing something wrong. Seem to fuck everything up.