@3:56 This part is glossed over. There is no mention of how much to tighten it. The instructions talk about tightening it down with the spring loaded, then rotating the nut ring to snap in the tension. This video leaves out a very important step.
tighten it until it's tight and there is enough tension on the belt, but do not over-tighten the belt! You just have to use common sense on this one, there is no specific way to measure tension and say "tighten to whatever amount of ft lbs of torque". There shouldn't be slack in the belt when opening and closing, but you don't want to over tighten either. You'll figure it out.
Thank you, this was perfect. I only had to replace my trolley and this was very helpful. I was able to replace the trolley by just taking the front two bolts off the rail to slide it off, put the new one on and reinstalled the bolts. In hindsight it probably would have been a lot easier on the ground instead of doing it all at the top of a ladder!
Great video and instructions ..... easy for one with the right wrenches and tools Suggest two people to make it just that much easier ... Lots of back and forth to handle each end.
My genie opener bangs over and over when opening and closing now. The unit shakes every bang. The tension on the belt is good. Do you think this could be the issue?
Try adjusting travel limits is your Genie opener has those adjustments. Let us know the model number of your Genie garage door opener if you need help finding information about your model.
@@MStrange88 Here's a link for the Genie webpage with manuals for that model: www.geniecompany.com/garage-door-opener-/model-3042 You should be able to find the help you need in those manuals. If you need more help, let us know.
Great video, makes it step by step. I did have a question: if we are disconnecting the power, then why are we also tking out the wires under the light cover? Also, I have another brand garage opener (Marantec), do all opener rails install the same way and pivot at the door end, that is can i also swing my garage door unit down as you have shown.
Because in this video, they are completely uninstalling, and bringing the unit down to the ground to change the belt. The control wires need to be disconnected for this.
That doesn’t work when the travel-limits are set using a screwdriver, and the screws are already fully-in or fully-out. This video shows the newer model that use electronic buttons. My garage door now only opens the door a few feet up, even with up-force set to maximum, and the upward travel-limit is fully screwed-in
The trolley is supposed to be within the first 1/3 section closest to the motor. In the instructions, it tells you to insert a screw driver in the rail to keep it from moving while installing the belt. It just has to be within there so you can finalize the adjustments with the buttons on the motor. I don't know what you would do for the screw kind of adjustment, but I would guess you would want the trolley in the same general area.
We pull the garage door opener down from the ceiling to replace the belt because it’s easier to access the belt with the opener laying on the garage floor. You can carefully replace the belt without removing the unit from the ceiling using a safe ladder and the proper tools.
you can change it while it's hanging, it's absolutely god damn stupid to pull the whole unit down. Use a ladder and change everything while it's attached.
i just found out somehow the belt rubs against inside belt cap retainer damage it while traveling wearing off the top outside's edges. should i take it down and reassembly it? I had a very hard time tried to screw down the belt cap retainer wrap around a new belt earlier.
I don’t see a part named a belt cap retainer on the parts list for that garage door opener. If the belt rubs on the sprocket cover, make sure that you have that sprocket cover installed properly. Here’s a link for the manual on a ½ HP Raynor garage door opener: www.raynor.com/pdf/airman_II_inst.pdf Check the belt installation shown in the manual. These tips may help you resolve the belt rubbing problem. If you need more help, let us know.
I don’t see a part named a belt cap retainer on the parts list for that garage door opener. If the belt rubs on the sprocket cover, make sure that you have that sprocket cover installed properly. Here’s a link for the manual on a ½ HP Raynor garage door opener: www.raynor.com/pdf/airman_II_inst.pdf Check the belt installation shown in the manual. These tips may help you resolve the belt rubbing problem. If you need more help, let us know.
great video. i just install a new sears belt drive. it's quiet and smooth. How do i tell if i tighten the belt too much or too less. would it cause problems if it too tight? thanks
If you tighten the belt too much, you’ll likely hear the idler pulley at the front of the garage door opener rail squeaking because of excessive tension on that pulley. If you don’t tension the belt enough, the cogs of the belt won’t mesh with the drive pulley so the garage door opener motor will run but the trolley won’t lift the door because the belt won’t move the trolley. Tighten the spring nut until the end of the trolley threaded shaft is flush with the end of the spring nut. Since the belt is flexible, you don’t need to apply a precise amount of tension to the belt. That position should apply the right amount of tension to the belt to lift the door while avoiding excessive belt tension.
I replaced my previous belt, but my Sears model has screws for setting limits instead of buttons. The travel-limits are set using a screwdriver, and the screws are already fully-in or fully-out. My garage door now only opens the door a few feet up, even with up-force set to maximum, and the upward travel-limit is fully screwed-in. I didn’t have the opportunity to lower my garage-door any further prior to replace,ent because the previous belt broke mid-travel. How can I get these limits reset when the up-limit screw is all the way in?
Pull the emergency release cord to disconnect the door from the opener's trolley. Manually raise and lower the garage door by hand to see if the garage door travels up and down smoothly. If the garage door binds up during travel, find and repair the cause of the door travel problem. If the door travels smoothly when disconnected from the trolley, try turning the up-travel adjustment screw the opposite direction and see if the door travels further upward. If the door does travel further upward, continue to adjust the screw in that direction to adjust up travel to the correct limit. If you turn the up-travel adjustment screw in the opposite direction and the door doesn’t travel further upward, then the travel limit switch assembly may be damaged. The up-limit contact on the switch assembly may not be moving as you turn the up-limit adjustment screw. You can follow the steps in this video (up to 2:24) to remove the motor unit cover and access the travel limit switch assembly: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/garage-door-opener/how-to-replace-the-gear-and-sprocket-assembly-on-a-chain-drive-garage-door-opener.html Examine the travel limit switch assembly for damage and replace it if necessary. Here’s a link for the part that you’ll likely need: www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/41D3452-2/0009/139.html If the travel limit switch isn’t damaged, then a faulty RPM sensor could be stopping the motor after the door travels only a few feet. Check the wiring connections on the RPM sensor and reconnect any loose wires. Check the RPM sensor circuit board for burn marks indicating that a circuit board component failed. Replace the RPM sensor assembly if the circuit board has any burn marks. Here’s a link for the sensor assembly that likely fits your model: www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/41C4398A/0009/139.html Here’s a video that shows how to replace the RPM sensor assembly: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/garage-door-opener/how-to-replace-the-rpm-sensor-on-a-chain-drive-garage-door-opener.html If you need to replace parts, use the model number of your garage door opener to access the parts list for your garage door opener and verify that the parts we reference in this troubleshooting advice are the correct replacement parts for your model. Here’s the link for the page to search for the parts diagram listing for your model: www.searspartsdirect.com/ If these tips don’t help you resolve the travel problem, let us know the model number of your garage door opener and we’ll try to provide additional troubleshooting advice.
This looks like an overly complicated way to do something that shouldn't be half this time consuming or laborious. I wouldn't take it off the ceiling or disconnect the wires, which BTW seems sort of foolish after you've already unplugged it. I also wonder if you really needed to take the idler pulley off since this is an open-loop belt which might just be slid into the pulley path with it still installed?
I cut the old (worn) belt off with wire snips then threaded it through the pulley opening to remove it. I did so with the pulley in place. One end of the belt has the clasp that's too big to go through the pulley opening but the other end is flush (as long as you don't have the bolt for the spring nut still attached). Once the old belt was removed I pushed the new belt through the pulley opening and wrapped it around the sprocket on the motor head and walked it back to the trolley. The spring nut threaded on just fine and I tensioned it up. Done. I just used a short step ladder at both ends to do the job myself with an assistant. Maybe 15-25 minutes at most.
I think I'd rather have a somewhat-controlled environment in a closed garage, where it's not as hot in summer, not as cold in winter, no rain or snow getting in, no rodents having access to chew up the vehicle wiring, no sun, acid rain, or other environmental contaminants having constant wear on the vehicle paint, having access to my home without keys, just hitting the garage door opener and/or keypad on the outside, having a place to store things semi-indoors protected rather than out back in a shed, etc, etc, etc. I wouldn't be laughing if I had to give all that up just to save a half hour once every decade or so to merely replace a belt. Welcome to the conveniences of the last half a century! I'd much rather have a manual open garage door than a carport, no contest.
@3:56 This part is glossed over. There is no mention of how much to tighten it. The instructions talk about tightening it down with the spring loaded, then rotating the nut ring to snap in the tension.
This video leaves out a very important step.
tighten it until it's tight and there is enough tension on the belt, but do not over-tighten the belt! You just have to use common sense on this one, there is no specific way to measure tension and say "tighten to whatever amount of ft lbs of torque". There shouldn't be slack in the belt when opening and closing, but you don't want to over tighten either. You'll figure it out.
Did mine without taking it off the ceiling. Very easy to do!
Perfect guide, greatly appreciated
Thank you, this was perfect. I only had to replace my trolley and this was very helpful. I was able to replace the trolley by just taking the front two bolts off the rail to slide it off, put the new one on and reinstalled the bolts. In hindsight it probably would have been a lot easier on the ground instead of doing it all at the top of a ladder!
Awesome video
How do you replace the sprocket?
Great video and instructions ..... easy for one with the right wrenches and tools
Suggest two people to make it just that much easier ... Lots of back and forth to handle each end.
My genie opener bangs over and over when opening and closing now. The unit shakes every bang. The tension on the belt is good. Do you think this could be the issue?
Try adjusting travel limits is your Genie opener has those adjustments. Let us know the model number of your Genie garage door opener if you need help finding information about your model.
@@searspartsdirect it’s a Genie SilentMax 1000 (model 3042)
@@MStrange88 Here's a link for the Genie webpage with manuals for that model: www.geniecompany.com/garage-door-opener-/model-3042 You should be able to find the help you need in those manuals. If you need more help, let us know.
Great video, makes it step by step. I did have a question: if we are disconnecting the power, then why are we also tking out the wires under the light cover? Also, I have another brand garage opener (Marantec), do all opener rails install the same way and pivot at the door end, that is can i also swing my garage door unit down as you have shown.
Because in this video, they are completely uninstalling, and bringing the unit down to the ground to change the belt. The control wires need to be disconnected for this.
When reinstalling the belt, does the trolley travel need to be at any particular location, toward the motor or toward the far end?
no just reset limits
That doesn’t work when the travel-limits are set using a screwdriver, and the screws are already fully-in or fully-out. This video shows the newer model that use electronic buttons. My garage door now only opens the door a few feet up, even with up-force set to maximum, and the upward travel-limit is fully screwed-in
The trolley is supposed to be within the first 1/3 section closest to the motor. In the instructions, it tells you to insert a screw driver in the rail to keep it from moving while installing the belt. It just has to be within there so you can finalize the adjustments with the buttons on the motor.
I don't know what you would do for the screw kind of adjustment, but I would guess you would want the trolley in the same general area.
Any reason the belt can't be replaced without removing the unit from the ceiling?
We pull the garage door opener down from the ceiling to replace the belt because it’s easier to access the belt with the opener laying on the garage floor. You can carefully replace the belt without removing the unit from the ceiling using a safe ladder and the proper tools.
paperjamn change garage door belt w/out taking unit down
you can change it while it's hanging, it's absolutely god damn stupid to pull the whole unit down. Use a ladder and change everything while it's attached.
i just found out somehow the belt rubs against inside belt cap retainer damage it while traveling wearing off the top outside's edges. should i take it down and reassembly it? I had a very hard time tried to screw down the belt cap retainer wrap around a new belt earlier.
I don’t see a part named a belt cap retainer on the parts list for that garage door opener. If the belt rubs on the sprocket cover, make sure that you have that sprocket cover installed properly. Here’s a link for the manual on a ½ HP Raynor garage door opener: www.raynor.com/pdf/airman_II_inst.pdf Check the belt installation shown in the manual. These tips may help you resolve the belt rubbing problem. If you need more help, let us know.
after i changed my new belt drive on raynor 1/2 hp, the belt cap retainer made some noise, anyone knows a problem and how to solve it?
I don’t see a part named a belt cap retainer on the parts list for that garage door opener. If the belt rubs on the sprocket cover, make sure that you have that sprocket cover installed properly. Here’s a link for the manual on a ½ HP Raynor garage door opener: www.raynor.com/pdf/airman_II_inst.pdf Check the belt installation shown in the manual. These tips may help you resolve the belt rubbing problem. If you need more help, let us know.
Just as long as the first one.
great video. i just install a new sears belt drive. it's quiet and smooth. How do i tell if i tighten the belt too much or too less. would it cause problems if it too tight? thanks
If you tighten the belt too much, you’ll likely hear the idler pulley at the front of the garage door opener rail squeaking because of excessive tension on that pulley. If you don’t tension the belt enough, the cogs of the belt won’t mesh with the drive pulley so the garage door opener motor will run but the trolley won’t lift the door because the belt won’t move the trolley. Tighten the spring nut until the end of the trolley threaded shaft is flush with the end of the spring nut. Since the belt is flexible, you don’t need to apply a precise amount of tension to the belt. That position should apply the right amount of tension to the belt to lift the door while avoiding excessive belt tension.
How long it last?
I replaced my previous belt, but my Sears model has screws for setting limits instead of buttons. The travel-limits are set using a screwdriver, and the screws are already fully-in or fully-out. My garage door now only opens the door a few feet up, even with up-force set to maximum, and the upward travel-limit is fully screwed-in. I didn’t have the opportunity to lower my garage-door any further prior to replace,ent because the previous belt broke mid-travel. How can I get these limits reset when the up-limit screw is all the way in?
Pull the emergency release cord to disconnect the door from the opener's trolley. Manually raise and lower the garage door by hand to see if the garage door travels up and down smoothly. If the garage door binds up during travel, find and repair the cause of the door travel problem. If the door travels smoothly when disconnected from the trolley, try turning the up-travel adjustment screw the opposite direction and see if the door travels further upward. If the door does travel further upward, continue to adjust the screw in that direction to adjust up travel to the correct limit. If you turn the up-travel adjustment screw in the opposite direction and the door doesn’t travel further upward, then the travel limit switch assembly may be damaged. The up-limit contact on the switch assembly may not be moving as you turn the up-limit adjustment screw. You can follow the steps in this video (up to 2:24) to remove the motor unit cover and access the travel limit switch assembly: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/garage-door-opener/how-to-replace-the-gear-and-sprocket-assembly-on-a-chain-drive-garage-door-opener.html Examine the travel limit switch assembly for damage and replace it if necessary. Here’s a link for the part that you’ll likely need: www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/41D3452-2/0009/139.html If the travel limit switch isn’t damaged, then a faulty RPM sensor could be stopping the motor after the door travels only a few feet. Check the wiring connections on the RPM sensor and reconnect any loose wires. Check the RPM sensor circuit board for burn marks indicating that a circuit board component failed. Replace the RPM sensor assembly if the circuit board has any burn marks. Here’s a link for the sensor assembly that likely fits your model: www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/41C4398A/0009/139.html Here’s a video that shows how to replace the RPM sensor assembly: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/garage-door-opener/how-to-replace-the-rpm-sensor-on-a-chain-drive-garage-door-opener.html If you need to replace parts, use the model number of your garage door opener to access the parts list for your garage door opener and verify that the parts we reference in this troubleshooting advice are the correct replacement parts for your model. Here’s the link for the page to search for the parts diagram listing for your model: www.searspartsdirect.com/ If these tips don’t help you resolve the travel problem, let us know the model number of your garage door opener and we’ll try to provide additional troubleshooting advice.
This looks like an overly complicated way to do something that shouldn't be half this time consuming or laborious. I wouldn't take it off the ceiling or disconnect the wires, which BTW seems sort of foolish after you've already unplugged it. I also wonder if you really needed to take the idler pulley off since this is an open-loop belt which might just be slid into the pulley path with it still installed?
I cut the old (worn) belt off with wire snips then threaded it through the pulley opening to remove it. I did so with the pulley in place. One end of the belt has the clasp that's too big to go through the pulley opening but the other end is flush (as long as you don't have the bolt for the spring nut still attached). Once the old belt was removed I pushed the new belt through the pulley opening and wrapped it around the sprocket on the motor head and walked it back to the trolley. The spring nut threaded on just fine and I tensioned it up. Done. I just used a short step ladder at both ends to do the job myself with an assistant. Maybe 15-25 minutes at most.
I got a carport, so much easier!!...LOL!
I think I'd rather have a somewhat-controlled environment in a closed garage, where it's not as hot in summer, not as cold in winter, no rain or snow getting in, no rodents having access to chew up the vehicle wiring, no sun, acid rain, or other environmental contaminants having constant wear on the vehicle paint, having access to my home without keys, just hitting the garage door opener and/or keypad on the outside, having a place to store things semi-indoors protected rather than out back in a shed, etc, etc, etc.
I wouldn't be laughing if I had to give all that up just to save a half hour once every decade or so to merely replace a belt. Welcome to the conveniences of the last half a century! I'd much rather have a manual open garage door than a carport, no contest.