How to install for airtightness: An Airtightness Installation Practical Demo
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2020
- Fintan and Ilias from our UK technical team provide a practical airtightness demonstration. Covering everything needed to learn how to install Intello Plus airtight membrane. Includes sealing overlaps, sealing pipe and cable penetrations, sealing around joist ends and sealing around a window. Also covers airtight sealing of floor to wall junctions and provides an overview of the methods and products used to seal typical structural and service penetrations in the air barrier. Filmed at our UK training centre on our full-size timber frame demo-wall.
This is really helpful! One thing that would be great to add is using pipes/wires/joists that are already in place that can't be addressed by poking a hole and sliding over. For example, rim joists where the ends aren't exposed. I basically cut a long slot and taped the whole thing, but it's very awkward.
Yes, it can be a very tedious detail Bryan. There is another way using Pro Clima Aerosana Visconn... in this video: ruclips.net/video/9_3gIXcY4jg/видео.html an OSB or ply formwork is created around the joists. This is much quicker and easier method to seal by spraying this liquid applied air barrier. If you have any more questions, do get in touch with our technical team via our website - always happy to help!
Very useful video, thank you,
Hi, I thought this was a very useful video, however, i am curious how you handle a story and a half structure where the wooden ceiling meets a concrete block wall. How is the membrane installed there. Also, would you need to install the membrane on the inside of the concrete block structure even though there is not going to be an internal slab. it would just be cavity insulated and plastered? Any videos for this type of structure?
Thanks
Hi Conor, in a story and a half construction the INTELLO PLUS follows the line of the ceiling and pitched roof, on the warm side of the insulation. Where the INTELLO PLUS meets the masonry wall this can be sealed to the plastered wall at this point with our CONTEGA SOLIDO SL tape. On block walls, the wet plaster on the block will act as the airtightness layer. In this case the CONTEGA SOLIDO SL tape can also be used to seal the windows to the concrete block prior to the plasterboard being applied.
Have ye any video on spot lights/ down lights?
Look @44:00. I'd like to see solutions for switches and receptacles
Recessed light videos will be published soon :)
thank yo for the video!
i need to know how to air seal around the fire stove pipe (for a tiny house).
i dont think i can just tape with the tescon vana around it, can i ?
do you have any tip? or do you know where i could look?
thank you in advance
Hi Familia, TESCON VANA is heat resistant up to 90 degrees Celsius which is on the low side for a stove. Our ROFLEX EPDM grommets are heat resistant up to 150 degrees Celsius. We also supply another range of `Silicon Grommets which are heat resistant up to 250 degrees Celsius. Please contact Ecological Building Systems directly for more details on these. The stove/flue supplier should also be consulted to ensure the sealing solution is within the operating temperatures.
@@niallcrosson5859 thanks a lot for the answer.
So I guess I could only use an insulated wood heater pipe.
Then put the grommet you suggested me around and finally seal with tescon vana.
Do you agree?
Thanks again!
@@familiamotarica6616 Hi. The Roflex Grommet is better as a rule to seal around services including pipes with a high heat resistance up to 150 degrees Celsius. Then the Roflex grommet can be sealed to INTELLO PLUS with TESCON VANA. Once the operating temperature of the pipe remains below this temperature it will be the best option. Higher temperatures up to 250 Celsius require the other higher heat resistant grommet referenced above.
@@niallcrosson5859 thanks a lot
Glad it was helpful!
This is about 4 times as many staples as I would have assumed.
Internally (for Intello Plus) every 100-150mm is perfect and means less stress on the staples when the membrane is pulled tight to get it flat and crease-free. This keeps it airtight long-term. If blown-in insulation is used, 100mm between staples only and timber battens are required too. Always read the technical guidance and installation guides on our website before commencing any work.
How do you attach Intel to steel framing?
Hi Sebastian
Thanks for your message. On metal studs you can use a double-sided tape called Duplex, or an acrylic sealant such as Orcon F or Multibond.
Pro Clima Duplex:www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/duplex
Pro Clima Orcon F: www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/orcon-f
Pro Clima Multibond: www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/orcon-multibond
@@EcologicalBuildingSystems Thank you!
Hii, I need to talk to you regarding airtight membranes, how may I contact you
Hi, please visit the "contact us" page on our website. www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/contact
Is it really necessary to use Intello membrane? Why not air seal the exterior?
as above...its about the building physics :)
These membranes are called intelligent because they allow vapor to move in one direction so that the wall cavity can dry. Vapor is allowed to move out of the cavity and into the living space, where an HVAC system or dehumidifier can maintain balance of moisture to healthy levels for occupants. Vapor is not allowed to drive from the living space into the wall cavity, where it can create mold, rot, and insect damage. The modern WRB's used on the exterior are similar in that they maintain drying potential of vapor to the outside. It is your decision if you want to just use one or both. Where people get into trouble with wall systems is when vapor becomes trapped between impermeable materials (rigid insulation, foil, plastic) and wood and/or condensation occurs where warm moist air meets a cold surface. So lets say you use a WRB on the outside and don't use an intelligent membrane on the inside. One of the rooms of your house is generating a lot of moisture (kitchen, bathroom) and that moisture finds its way into the wall cavity. It then makes it's way around gaps in the insulation and collects on the cold sheathing during winter and becomes condensation. You certainly can manage the moisture in the building with exhausts and HVAC equipment. But the other benefit of a membrane is it provides air sealing and tightens the building envelope to reduce heat loss and energy consumption. Air leakage is one important factor in building performance. R-Value comes from insulation thickness but more heat is lost through gaps and cracks - bringing down the effective R-Value of the wall system.
@@MrBrianDuga Yes, I understand the physics. And that's why I question why a high-efficiency (tight), well-ventilated/dehumidified home needs a vapor barrier. In a properly-designed structure, with proper HVAC, moisture levels should never get a point where moisture can reach a condensing surface to create problems.
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb Absolutely. Great points. Perhaps redundancy and every system takes some thought and consideration for cost effectiveness.
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb It's an air barrier to give added air tightness from the inside to avoid moisture transport. It does let vapor pass. Makes more sense where there is insulation that doesn't block air movement and benefits from being sealed on all sides like fiberglass.
You don’t staple air tight membrane, you have just punctured it everywhere and now isn’t airtight. Only tape it, no holes what so ever!
That isn't what the instructions say.
Staples applied correctly do not compromise the airtightness. They are necessary to secure the membrane to the timber structure and securely contain the insulation. You just need to avoid staples missing the timber, or if they don't go all the way in, or they go in too far and slice through the membrane.