SV650: Valve Adjustment!
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- Опубликовано: 10 дек 2024
- Hey this is a long one. Make sure you have the service manual!!! I cannot stress this enough. Also make sure you take your spark plugs out before you turn the engine! Watch this to watch the process. I had to adjust 6 out of my 8 valves. The spec is 0.1-0.2 mm for the intake valves and 0.2-0.3mm for the exhaust valves.
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Just want to add my thanks! Helping future generations of riders. You probably have no idea how beneficial this video is for anyone trying to do their own valve timing, I can't thank you enough!
what an absolute PITA.
I have a 09 sfv650. this guide was great. I managed to leave the throttle body on and just deal with the shit show of space for the rear cylinder.7 hours because I didn't have to do any new shims on the rear cyl. probably woulda been a 10 hour job if I had. glad it's done, see ya in 14,500miles lol
Glad to know this works for an SFV 650! I have the same one you do but mines at 12,500 miles rn. It’s been a beast for the 3-4k miles I’ve put on her. I’ll be doing this at 14,5 mark myself. Any pointers you would give?
@@danielramos7556two notes:
First, I took off the air box and to do that there's two 3mm hex bolts holding it to the intake runners. Get a long ass hex key (screw driver, ideally) or prepare to spend 45 minutes using the normal length to slot into the bolt and then turn it with pliers like I did.
Second, the cam chain tensioner needs to be reset to installation position before you reinstall it. The manual shows how in 1d-36
Good luck have fun
@@GarryDeWitt appreciate the info man! I’m sure my future self is gonna need all the luck he can😂
Easily the best and most thorough repair video on RUclips. Thanks so much for making this, I finally feel comfortable doing my cam job
best video i've seen for the valve check/shim change. very, very well done.
Well thank you!
I'm gonna be checking my SV's valve clearances soon and adjust them if needed, your video in combination with the service manual is going to help me out alot for sure! Thanks alot for filming and explaining the entire process along the way, I can imagine it's not easy to be focused on filming while working on the bike at the same time.
Very helpful video, thanks.
You can avoid taking out the cam tensioners if you undo the large center bolt that holds the spring, then remove the bolt (that's the one you cracked loose before pulling the tensioner out) and the spring. Then you have to reach down inside the case where the chain goes, using a long screwdriver, and push the pawl to release the plunger and get the tension off the chain (like you showed at 27.10). It is a little fiddly, but it saves on pulling the whole of the tensioner out.
Clarified instructions for installing the camshafts:
The video explanation can be a little confusing for some people. In general, at F, either the front or rear cylinder timing marks will be aligned BUT NOT AT THE SAME TIME, and BOTH cylinders have to be aligned at F. The cylinders should be aligned 360 degrees apart. If you rotate the crankshaft to F so that the front cylinder sprocket timing marks are aligned, the rear cylinder timing marks should NOT be aligned. Then, if you rotate 360 degrees back to F, the rear will be aligned and the front should NOT be aligned. Every 360 degree rotation at the F mark will alternate the alignment between the rear and front.
If it's not aligned and/or alternating like that, follow these instructions:
1.) Rotate the crankshaft to F. Then, align the timing marks for the front (or rear) cylinder's sprockets (Remember the front and rear cylinders have their own timing marks!). Then install the chain tensioner as well before going to step 2.
2.) Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees back to F again. Then, align the timing marks for the other cylinder's sprockets. Then install the chain tensioner.
3.) At the end, both rear and front cylinder timing marks should align at the F mark 360 degrees apart from each other
4.) Double check everything. Rotate the crankshaft to "F". Rotate the crankshaft fully several times to triple check if it rotates fine. If it's binding, then that means the timing is off. DO NOT CRANK WITH THE STARTER BUTTON TO CHECK ALIGNMENT, otherwise you will damage the engine if it's mistimed.
Props to you sir. I'd probably never attempt a job like this but I've got a 2006 sv650 with like 34k miles and know stuff will eventually start to need repairing. Keep posting the DIY vids!
I'm sure this procedure heaps of more time because you took the time to get good shots, document and narrate everything. Thanks for creating the video, appreciate it! Luckily my SV is only at 7k miles so I've still got a while to go.
+Magnus Nyborg yeah I wanted to throw the camera away and just finish it a few times so I'm glad you enjoy it ha!
Awesome tutorial! I have done several valve adjustments on bikes before but never the kind with shims so I never needed to remove the cams before. This makes it all a little less "scary".
Glad to hear people are finding it useful! What you don't see in the video is me uninstalling and reinstalling the cams multiple times to figure out the timing
Great thing to know your tech stuff!
The ones of us that don't... Pay $$$!
Great work man!
Rock ON!
I recently delved into a Nija EX500R for my first valve adjustment. I learned a ton by doing it myself. I know your video is on an SV but I'm currently contemplating getting a used SV or a Ninja 650. Comparing the Suzuki's to the Kawasaki Ninja 650 I wanted to do some homework first. (I currently ride a 2018 Versys 650...sold the EX500). Anyway, you did a great job on the video, explained things clearly and had excellent video showing all the parts and placements! And because of your video I'm able to see that the Suzuki's appear much easier to get to than the Kawasaki's. (I know my EX was a bear just to get the valve covers off and out through the frame - even with the cables pulled!).
Again, great video. Learn a lot!
Thanks man! Glad to hear it!
Thanks a lot from France ! Very nice video ! it will help me, I have to do it on my 650 V-strom (same engine)
Thanks so much for your guidance and level of detail!
I have a 2014 V-Strom 650, which has an almost identical engine to your SV650. Before removal, i noticed that the camshaft markings in the rear cylinder were strangely not aligned as in my Haynes manual, but rather, both gears are advanced one tooth to the right. I'm trying to decide if I should put them back like I found them, or to use the Haynes manual setting.
Your video has given me a lot of peace of mind because your rear cylinder camshafts are set up just like mine look right now.
The Haynes manual that I own was printed in 2014 and claims to cover the DL650 V-Strom 2004 to 2013 as well as the SFV650 Gladius 2009 to 2013. My model is a 2014, but it's the same bike as the 2014. For anyone looking to reference the rear cylinder camshaft orientation in the Haynes manual, it's shown in Figure 8.9. ISBN 978 0 85733 643 9, Haynes #5643.
Whats the worst that could happen in alternating between these two settings? I've read some theories that this can be done to increase torque.
The big problem that I have is that I didn't check the front cylinder camshaft orientations before removing them, so I don't know if they looked like the manual, which also agrees with your front cylinder.
Hey, Very old reply to your comment but you're right, the video and user manual do not match on, the rear cylinder !
I think the manuals are wrong, you shouldn't put the chain exactly like the manual, but like in this vode. I followed exactly the manual and the engine doesn't start well and I may have damaged it, by following the manual with tremendous precision
Nice video, easy to see wtf is going on. That gives me a great idea of what to expect when I check mine. I also need to do the whole throttlebody sync, tps adjustment too if you want another video suggestion.
Great video, highly recommend using a torque wrench on that cam bridge and some moly lube too when reassembling rather than just oil by itself. Thanks for taking the time to make this video 👍👍
Yeah I wouldn't do it again without those things. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for making this video! Saved me a lot of money. Now I have the background song stuck in my head
Absolute hero man. Thanks for making this video.
+WyeRider thanks man! glad it was helpful!
Good vid, got my 2 front exhausts shims to do soon.😐
brilliant video mate. Your dedication is highly appreciated!!
Best how to video I've seen so far, keep em coming!
Thank you so much!
You helped alot of people.
Great video mate. The best one I've seen yet
Great video. Let's me know what to expect. Thanks!
Happy to help! Thanks for the kind words!
Thx for this amazing guide. ❤️ Friendly greetings from Germany.
personally believe that :: you're definitely helping for the people a lot with your video !!!! so it's a great thing nonetheless you should focusing a little bit more what you're saying to avoid your mistakes... Lol anyway you don't need remove the chain tensioner ... just lose it...and puss the pin rood back with your finger ( from inside the cylinder......) cheers
this is the best video i have seen on valve thanks!
I need to do lots to my bike this year. I'm at 45k and SCMM is coming up.
Clever lad,good on you.
Hey, I've used a couple of your videos to help me fix my 2006 SV650S. You give really good instructions. I just saw on your channel that you live in Phoenix? I live in Phoenix, too, and thought it would be cool if we rode around together or something. I don't have any friends with motorcycles, so it gets kinda boring. Lol.
Thank you for the help and video. Worked very well. I had 4 valves that needed adjusting. Front cylinder only oddly enough.
I ended up leaving the gas tank and radiator. The radiator can be pushed down after all the clips come off.
The gas tank I supported with the tank stand + my gps mount instead of the triple tree mount area.
The worst part was my spark plugs were 1 step colder than they should've been and they were carbon fouled. So I replaced with oem.
Took me from 10pm to 5am about 7 hours. Including reading the FSM. Definitely worth taking your time. Also replaced brake fluid, coolant, oil, filter, and gas (because it was too full) at the same time.
Hell yeah! Congrats!
Awesome video. The camera punch scared the shit out of me hahaha. Will be doing mine soon!
Let me know if you have questions!
fantastic video thanks definately best one i have seen thx
Thanks! Happy to help!
About to do this. Going to try to not remove the radiator nor the gas tank
Any link to the service manual? for some silly reason suzuki have started to make theirs all semi private so people dont work on their bikes...
Thanks for this great tutorial! One question: can I turn the crankshaft to F position before rear cylinder camshafts removal? Just to avoid doing this when the chain is off the sprockets...
hi, I'm digging up this video but I've been at it for 26 hours now and I'm tearing my hair out.
Contrary to the user manual, there's a big mistake at @26:47 !
The first tooth to count from should be the first tooth of the sprocket, in the video the timing is wrong according to the user manual, the chain should have been shifted one tooth to the right.
However I am perfectly timed, exactly as the manual, and the engine starts very hard, does not run smoothly and rattles.
So shouldn't you follow the manual and do as you did in the video ? Did the engine start well ?
I know you don't own this bike anymore, but do you remember if removing the airbox + throttle bodies is enough to access the front cyclinder cam chain tensioner?
Great job dude!
Thanks!
Nice work... thx 4 the visuals!
Good analysis bro, this is so helpful. I have managed to do mine after changing rings and cleaning valves for it hasn't been working for some years. Can u help on how to make ignition? Mine doesn't have anything, I just have to gather everything and start making ignition for me to have spark
Bro, any way to get your service manual?
Is this the same process for a sv1k you think?
Awesome video, thanks for posting!
Thank you very much! This was very helpful.
if you do such thing its good to change all closer to hogher vslue cos clearence decrease with time and mileage and if ypu left those close to lower value you must adjust again more often 😉i setup in me sv intake on 0,18/19 exhaust 0,28/29😉👍🏻
Why the chain do not jump a tooth (at the crankshaft gear) when the chain is completely lose and the cam is out?
Great video, tho
Thanks for the video you did a great job!
Thanks Ron!
Is there anyway to prime the oil pump before starting? Guess it doesn't matter. Like crank without the plugs or does that not work on the sv650. Some cars have different pumps that need higher speeds.
do you still have the link for the service manual pdf by chance?
Great Video
Great video mate
awesome video
Nicely done. Would you still recommend the liquid gasket? Im getting ready to do mine and am pretty hesitant about not using OEM or at least the cloth cut outs.
I know you're probably already past this, but I'd get the OEM gasket for sure
How many miles are on your SV? I'm at 22k but there's no sign of my valves needing adjustment yet.
+philip orlando Thanks for watching hope it was helpful! The service manual says you should check and adjust if necessary every 15k miles. If they're within spec then you don't have to do all that. Keeping them within spec means your engine will live longer. I picked this bike up with 58k miles and now it's at 60k I don't think the valves were ever adjusted.
Yeah this will be my go to guide for checking valves, other than the manual of course! You made getting the valve timing right seem pretty manageable. 58k without any adjustment is crazy! Did your SV show any signs of needing a valve adjustment, or were you just checking them because of the service interval?
philip orlando I wouldn't say that there were any signs. I just wanted to kinda tear into the engine and put it back together. It does run much stronger now that the valves are done though.
That's good to hear. Keep on wrenchin' my dude!
@@porlando12 By the time it gives you an indication they are out of adjustment, you may have already caused damage. It will take a little longer to start when hot and out of adjustment because parts expand when hot and the valves are not closing all the way when out of adjustment. This allows the valves to get burned around the area where they seal to there seats during combustion cycles. Engine will make less power too because you need the intake valves closed all the way when combustion occurs so all the force pushes down on the piston . If valves are out of adjustment with too much clearance, valve lift will be less than optimal and maximum power will not be obtained.
So much work and so many points where something could go wrong. I wonder how many of this engines died because of valves lash or if they do more than 100000k even with gaps out of specs...
Hey have you cleaned out your valve stems before? My 05 sv has been giving me issues, and I saw the valve stems have a bunch of carbon and gunk on them. I tried seafoaming it, it didn't help all to much.
how do i tight the chain? if its loose
what kind of exhaust do you have?
23:14 over here making sweet love to the motorcycle lmao
this first or second gen ??
+DB Coop this is 2nd gen. There shouldn't be any big differences though
IS IT TRUE that SV650 valves usually stay within specs for much longer than 15,000 miles, if the engine hasn't been flogged and the oil gets changed?
Obviously there's no guarantee that won't lead to grief, but is that generally true?
+Pat Kittle yeah they're supposed to stay in spec for awhile. But every sv is gonna be a little different.
Excellent DIY video, thank you!
I do think RUclips soundtracks get in the way, but at least yours isn't annoying enough to ruin my concentration.
Good job but I think I would just pay a shop and save yourself a headache…
This is NOT a good video on how to do this. And ALL the mistakes should have been edited out before posting !
Please send a link to your video on how to do this or a better one, thanks
I agree, for example all engine bolts need to be torqued down, looks like a beginner