SV650 Carburettor Synchronisation
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- Опубликовано: 2 ноя 2015
- SV650 Carburettor Synchronisation, using vacuum gauges. Thanks to AJ for supporting. I really enjoyed this and was surprised at how little time was needed once the gauges were set up.
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It might be worth mentioning that the front carburetor is "fixed" and has no adjustment. The rear is the one you sync to match the front with the adjuster screw. Thank you for the video! As usual, simply brilliant!
For an 8yr old video, this is still helping people who need it. needed to sync my carbs on my '01 suzuki SV650s and this video was exactly what i needed. Thank you!
Been scouring the web trying to find where to connect the tubes on this bike until I came across this video. Even if it's 4 years old it still helped immensely. Thank you.
Amazing thank you so much I swear just the past two days just about every video u made on this bike I’ve saved and watched!! I just got my 01 sv650s running bc of you!! Your a life saver all these videos are really helping people like me to this day!
Best instructional video on RUclips by far.....
Wow, thats a lovely thing to say, thank you very much. I am celebrating 1000 subscribers so far to this channel and it is brilliant comments like yours which keep me inspired!
I'm giving this a go today on my curvy. Thanks for your clear and concise explanation.
...and I'm done! Didn't take long at all :)
damn dawg, seing your bike, phew! that's exactly how my bike looked when I bought it. Mint! drove it from Arkansas to Maine, love this bike. and thanks to folks like you. Getting it running again! Thanks!
Even though my bike has no carburettors I enjoyed your video as always. Please keep up the good work. :>)
Wow, not until now did I realize what that bar was for! (holding the tank up to access the carbs) I've had this bike a few months!
going to start bringing my Sv650s to you for repairs :D Great video as usual Tamsen
+CornishBiker48 Thanks- I would be happy to help anytime!
+Tamsen Cooper haha, thanks.
I have Suzuki 2005 sv650 it will start ,but as soon as I put it in gear it dies out ! Do you have any suggestions on what it might be?
Hi, It may be the side stand or the wiring connected to it. These bikes engines will not run when in gear when the stand is down. Just my "penny worth" hope it helps.
The tip about the extension hose off of intake boot 1 nipple is gonna save my bacon here shortly. Just installed one after dropping the radiator forward. Thanks again for these videos.
Really pleased it helped! Thanks for watching!
Great demonstration :)
+GTs Garage Thanks- I really enjoyed doing this.
Very informative. Thank you!
Really pleased you enjoyed it- it was good fun making it!
The video was very helpful, especially as my engine is much dirtier, even after degreasing it! I have the column type of gauges, which are much easier to read and balance very closely. Valve clearances next!
That is on my to do list as well, I have that spare engine so I can make the video more clear by filming close up to that as well as the engine on my bike.
This is a basic sync.
To truly synchronize your carbs you need to follow my 7 step method.
1. Remove carbs from bike
2 . Use a wire gauge to set the throttle plate gap using the throttle linkage adjuster screw. The throttle plates should be set to be open the same amount( use a piece of coat hanger wire if necessary, between carb wall and throttle plate, adjust until Plate to wire contact is equal in both carbs).
3. Then drill out the brass plug that is protecting the pilot jet screw located on the base of each carburetor, right next to each float bowl. Be careful not to drill too deep, use about 1/8" bit and stop 1/4" - 5/16" deep, use a screw and some pliers to remove the brass plug. Underneath you will find the Pilot Jet Screw (Idle Jet).
4. Install carbs on bike and get running again.
5. Put your vacuum gauges on and sync using the Pilot Jet Screw instead of the connecting linkage (the linkage should already be set to provide equal throttle plate opening). Sync using the "lean drop" method to get the best idle rpm.
6. Once you have these things set perfect: correct float level, clean jets and passages, throttle plate openings are exactly equal, pilot jet screws are adjusted to achieve highest vacuum, stable desired RPM, and both cylinders match.
7. Then you apply vacuum gauges again, rev up to 2500-3000 and if vacuum is still uneven adjust slightly with linkage on side of carb( You will find vacuum to be uneven on some bikes due to difference of cylinder cooling, especially an SV).
That is the ultimate tune without going into pilot and main jets, jet needles, needle jets, air bleeds, slide mods, etc.
Thank you, that is a really detailed description! Really clear and well explained.
Is that brass plug replaceable, or can be removed and that's it?
@@fulesmackofule you don't need it anymore once removed. It only covers the screw to prevent adjustment. The first time you take your bike in for this service they may or may not reinstall a plug depending on dealer policy, most of the time I see it left off by factory service techs.
It also prevents losing the adjustment screw if it ever unwinds.
@andrewoshea35 that's what the spring is for, keeps the needle from loosening. The plug was mandated by epa, older carbs didn't have them. They were added sometime late 70s or early 80s to keep people from adjusting. Bikes are set with lean idle for emissions.
What is that FANTASTIC windscreen you have?? The SV650 is spectacular, but can get very windy up top. It seems like you've got around that!
Yeah the double bubble windshield does offer quite a lot of wind protection. I just did a 200 mile ride and I was much more comfortable than my friend on a naked bike! I have a new windscreen to fit from Skidmarx, they are a UK based company, might be worth checking out their site too as they come in a range of colours.
2019 and i love it
Very good
Love your vids. Carb removal and clean how-to next please.
Oh that is a great idea!! I have added that great suggestion to my list of videos to make!
well done.
i like the silver chassi btw. sweet
+luciano.x Thanks. It was a good job to get done
Where did you get your windshield? I love it! I've wanted higher one that will hopefully improve aerodynamics on the highway.
+Parker Raus hey, it is a 'double bubble' windshield but it came with the bike when I bought it, it is great when at speed being able to tuck down behind it- it has made a great difference!
You have three hands! ...Now that is useful. ;)
+Grumpy old sod on a bike. lol! Now that would be useful :)
Hi Tamsen, The prepared tube at the front has an something like a cap. Mine SV 650 doesnt have the cap on it, does this matter?
You are very much apreciated did the most maintenance myself, thx to you!
What if one of the carbs the needle is different from the first one ? How would you make them both the same ?
Nice description and xtal clear voice. Bike sounds nice- what is the can?
Thank you! Oh the bike sounds amazing, it is a blue flame exhaust, I have it with the baffles out to really hear it go!
No probs, and thank you for the info about the can.
It was useful, but as for a starter, i am just wondering what tools I would have to use (order) to do everything. I assume, for a first time synchronization, I would have to remove the radiator in the front to access that point where you already preinstalled the tube (what diameter?) for easier access in the future. Can you leave the hose there without plugging in the hole for dirt protection? It would have been nice to see the right points on the carburetor where you have to put the hoses on. I would have liked to see the whole process of removing the seat and lifting the tank. Can I leave the tank hose on? I saw another video where someone removed it totally and used some hospital kind of dripping bag. Well, I might be a bit freaked out, but I think it has to be straightforward.
By the way, can you feel or hear that when the cylinders don't get the same amount of air/fuel ratio at the same time? Thanks.
Hi,
You can find the same vacuum gauges on Amazon. For the extension hose you can use 5 or 6 mm. Don't forget to close the hose with a bolt or something once you finished or you gonna have some air leaks. The hose goes on the bottom right of the carburetor. It's not easy to access you either have to remove the carburetor or as she said move the radiator.
Good luck
hi i have a quick question, rather than having to pull a vacuum with pump could you just attach t piece to petcock and carb running carb tuner through this? great vid as well thanks
I have not done it like that, so I am not sure. Pleased you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching.
You have to connect the vacuum gauge to the carb, so also connecting it to the tap would possibly mess up the reading.
I just sucked the end of the tube until the tap clicked open, folded the pipe to seal it and held it there with a small clamp. A clothes peg or bulldog clip would probably work just as well.
Hi Tamsen. I have a 2006 SV650S and its idling high at time, not always. I would stop at a light sometimes and it would be at 2.5k RPM and other times its normal at 1.5k. I have adjusted the idle screw, changed spark plugs, air filter and oil. Not sure what else could be causing this as its not happening all the times. I can give it some gas with the clutch off and sometimes it will drop to 1.5k pretty fast.
Any help is appreciated.
Hey Krasi, did you get this problem sorted in the end? If so what was the cause?
Hello Tamsen, I have a question on electric wire connections. Just so happens the question relates to your video. On the right side of the frame at the front, there are 3 electrical connectors in that rubber flex housing. 2 are black and have interlocking connectors. But the 3rd is white and just a single. I cannot locate what it connects too. I disconnected the wires there to change the cylinder head, Did not take pics as I don't have a magic camera. Could you help me please??
how do you call the small things you used for adjusting the gauge? i did this without. still runs better than befor xD
Do you mean the dials with the needle that moves to show the pressure?
Hi
I have removed my tank and from the tank there was fuel pipe connection at front and a vaccum pipe at front .. there is a long vaccum pipe from back of petrol tank ..does that connect anywhere as i can't remember taking it off before I pulled the tank off?
Eskimo doodle i believe what you are referring to is actually the water drainage from the tank (from the fill opening). This will.connect to the "T" piece which also drains away the overflow of the coolant reservoir. These two together will drain away on the right side of the clutch cover, right between said cover and the frame.
Thank you
can you explain a little more on the fuel vacuum that you use at 3:26? Is that in place of an auxiliary tank or is no extra tank needed with method you use? Thx.
No extra tank required, just the pump with a couple of PSI pressure was plenty to do the job.
I have a vacuum pump similar to that I bought for bleeding brake lines that works great.
The gauges were reading the timing was out though, whats that all about ?
been a LONG time since i did balancing & now i have a carbed bike again, is it the a/f mixture or idle speed you change?
+gizzy nc Hi, I checked the idle speed first to make sure it wasn't too low/high before i started and whilst the bike was warming up, then it the small brass screw you see in the video to adjust and make sure they are balanced.
+gizzy nc thank you, btw I have exactly the same bike as you & i'm missing the right rear breather hose going into the airbox (as you are sat on it). could you tell me where it leads to?
salut je ne comprends pas à quoi sert la manipulation à 3:20, i dont't understand what do you do with the at 3:20.
Could really out of sync carbs cause my bike to cut out if I give it throttle? cannot see an vacuum leaks at all and Im baffled what's wrong with it. Only thing I can think of is that my carbs are ridiculously out of sync. Front spark plug was orange and rear was black.
What year is your bike. I have the 2001 sv650. It use to go 130 but now it takes a little longer to get to 120.
Would it be possible to make this 02 fuel injected? I have an o2 and tired of the carbs how would i make it fuel injected.
Cool
I'm stuck at the moment with my sv 650 2002, it smells so strong with petrol... Im sure it must be running rich. It wouldn't start last week for a bit and did the same today. I thought it was the spark plugs changed them still doing it. Regulator... Start motor 😅 it's all a head ache but it misfires and pops occasionally 😢
Hey, I hadn’t ridden my bike for 6 months- due to being unwell, the first time I fired it up, it took 5/6 goes with the choke on full, after it was sat on the driveway idling, fuel poured out of the overflow pipes. I think because it had been sat so long, anyway, after running it a few more times, that has stopped completely- so maybe there was a slight flooding effect, a bit of grunge pulled through the tank etc. Maybe the bike just needs to be run for a bit if it’s been sat a while?
Otherwise, I would run it, wait until you smell the fuel, then lift the tank (I have done a video on this if needed) and follow the pipe from the tank, look for split pipes or weeping seals. See if you can see any drops of fuel to give you an idea of where the problem might be.
There is an idle adjuster if it is revving too high when idle (again there is a video on this) or it could mean it’s time to look at the carbs- you can do it yourself or send them off to be cleaned (usually ultrasonic cleaning makes them come up like new) I hope this helps- let me know how you get on xx
Saludos desde México
hi silly question but what do you call those calibrated vacuum pumps I cant find them lol. can i just suck and plug the vacuum pipe if not?
+glen wilson It only needs 1-2 PSI (so very little) for it to work. The pump I used was called a 'hand held brake bleeder kit' put that into an online auction or shopping site and it should come up for about £15 ish. If you mean the carburettor gauges then type in 'motorcycle 4 cylinder carburettor gauge' (there is a 2 cylinder version available but its only a few quid less) for about £30 ish. Hope that helps.
+Tamsen Cooper thank you so much ive found one now thanks to you, i have the same bike so all your posts are going to be amazing for me! don't fancy doing one on valve clearances do you lol!
+glen wilson I am so thrilled you are enjoying the videos! Valve clearance... ok, I will put that one on the to do list!
need wire tips like blinkers.
thought I watched the video. seems I missed where you show us how to sync it
Hey, sorry if it wasn't clear, just to recap at 1:53 I highlight where the synchronisation screw is located. At 2:58 is how to read the gauges (and that you want both to read the same to ensure the same ratio of air to fuel is going to both cylinders) At 4:07 AJ is adjusting the tap to reduce the fluttering effect of the needle on the gauge. At 4:46 the adjustment screw is pointed out with the gauges in shot. This can be tightened or loosened and will affect where the needles point on the gauges. The idea is that they are both showing the same reading as it did during the video. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Where the screew to turn???
Just here to tell that that line you speak off. The one on the front Carb that has an Allen bolt in it. Thats Suzuki standard! :D mine has it too!
So thank you Suzuki!!
+luuk341 Oh cool! Didn't realise that. I was proper chuffed though as it did make the job a lot easier!
+Tamsen Cooper I was doing a spark plug change yesterday evening and I thought to check to see if that line was there. And I was pleasantly surprised that it was :)
Thanks Suzuki for making our lives easier
Wow, you have an accent just like my ex wife. Are you from Surrey, U.K.??
you should have synch'd them at 4 to 5 k rpm , THAT'S where you ride
actual lol!
@@TamsenCooper Unless yer on a track !