Simple answer: add brown to everything. Colors in scale tend to be more dull, so blacks become grays and whites become beige. It's due to less light on the subject, similar to looking at something in low light can make the colors appear to change and become more uniform. While that's what happens in real life, mini painting replies a lot on the painter him/herself, so you can choose to either add the effect, ingore it, or add more contrast to fight it.
It is similar to a dark khaki. Mud and dirt isn't just "brown." It can vary quite a bit depending on area and moisture content. You tend to only see real brown dirt or mud in areas of high decomposition, like a thick forest, or man-made enriched soil, like a lawn.
Great video. I like the fact you paint the base first which speeds up the process because you are not so worried about the odd flick of paint getting on the troops.
Thank you very much for this, I’m recently getting into the game and need to learn the basics of painting them. I have loads of experience with 1/72 figures but the way I did it was much more different and I never really realized how much more difficult I was making it for myself
The other advantage of the wet palette is the saving of colors mixed. I got a really good shade for brown violet (for US tanks and helmets) that I mixed, and it's still good after more than a month. I mainly paint RPG figs (aka D&D), so it's nice to have the colors I dont use that much (WWII military) ready to go when I (or my brothers) need them. I work overnights, and on break I can break out my palete and get some work done. If I am calld,I can leave and the paint is fine when I get back
Great video, I have only progressed to the stage of using the straight colours (if you ca believe that). Thanks for a nice demonstration of shading, and picking out details. I will be trying this later on. Keep up the good work!
nice how to very clear and easy to follow .. and love to see other Flames palyers model there guys... i got some tips from this that i will be eager to try ... ty for sharing and keep em coming..Cheers Hp
I use a white porcelain tile too in addition to the wet palette, but @Kodokijolyus is having palette drying issues. The wet palette is the solution for that. One can try and be more careful with keeping paint on a dry palette wet, but that can be a nuisance if one is concentrating on some detail. If I need the paint dryer (or even wetter) I bring it to the white tile and get it to the consistancy needed there.
I don't like them. I prefer to have more control over my paint. With a regular palette you can thin, or let it dry out a bit for thicker paint, as needed.
loved your video! One piece of feedback thouigh; the quality of them would improve greatly if you listed the colours you use either in text here or on screen at the end of the video... Sometimes you mumble and it is hard to hear and other times you say Vallejo beige and it leaves you wondering if it is a game or model colour or from the aces series. Thanks making it though. Great job!
Thanks for this video! I just finished putting together about 2500 points of russians and was hoping you had a video on basing them. I used to use the "basetex" stuff that brookhurst carried but it's been over 15 years since they last stocked that. Hopefully we can play a game some time!
That depends on which Armylist(Book, Company) you're planing to use. But overall, Artillery and Tank destroyers are viable Options. Both have really good Special Rules, in case you play the U.S Paras. The specific Type once again depends on the used Armylist. Ps. Sorry for my English. I'm way outta training. But i hope it's understandable. ;D
Have you tried using a wet palette? There's a number of youtube vids that tell how to make them. They are really helpful for keeping paints wet. I store my wet pallette in the fridge becuase I mix colors and I dont want to keep remixing them. I have been using the same palette for about 2 months now.
When ever I play I always use Stuarts. Stuarts are very little points and have a ton of mgs. With a coax and hull and aa mgs Stuarts are very strong. They also move 16 inches to get right into the enemy's face. Don't send them against tanks but infantry. So if you use them correctly they can be incredibly over powered. One game I played I was against a SS company and killed 2 fearless Veteran platoons loosing one Stuart. They can changed the tide of the battle easily if you avoid enemy tanks.
Just starting to get into Flames of War and want to do paratroopers, I'm the only allied player in my area! Great video and hope to watch more! We are starting from Market Garden onwards. Right now I only have the Parachute Rifle Company. What do you suggest I should add onto it from there?
I am also just getting started with Flames of war and like the way you don't use metallic paint for guns. However what would you suggest using for brassas in shell casings?
I like the base, but I'm a bit confused on the steps. You use vallejo burnt umber as base, then some kind of dry brush with flat earth, but then I got confuse because you mention 3 more colors. Can you explain to me how did you made the base step by step?
I was wondering two things first was it Green Grey or Green Gray and the other thing is what colors were used for metal on the weapons cold gray and what is the other I can't seem to find a panzer gray?
hi thank for showing how to highlight i was having some trouble now that i have watched this it has help me alot thank you do you have any video on us infantay?
Where did u get those figures? I’m getting into this and I can’t really find some figures I’ve been wanting to use. These would work perfectly for what I want
thanks for the advice I think your videos are terrific only wish I could paint like that. One other question what size of brushes do you use for 15mm as it is difficult to tell from the videos as they look quite large but then so do the figures?
Pure Gold, as most of your videos. Nevertheless, I have a question: why didn't you paint the airborne, just like the US troops in your other video, glued on a stick? Wouldn't that be more comfortable?
You may want to place the camera in a different postion, because your hands keep getting in the way. Plus the camera seems to have a hard time focusing too.
How you paint 15mm minis is beyond me. I find 1:72 already too small to paint, yet you're able to paint 15mm with details... please give us mere mortals some pointers man. Maybe about primer paint (my primer kept peeling off my soft plastic airfix), brush/paint (kept accidentally painted other area when I want to paint hard to reach details and my paint always dries on my palate way too quick). Thanks.
Hallo, ich hätte mal eine Frage Sind ihnen irgendwelche Modellbausätze von omnibussen aus der Zeit der Wehrmacht bekannt? den Omnibus Model W.39 gibts ja leider nur in 1.72 aber ich suche Modelle in 1:35
Like I really want to get into Flames of War but I don't have the talent time or patience frankly to assemble an army. If anyone knows where in the Bay Area I could find someone to paint and assemble the miniatures for me please let me know.
in all honesty it doesn't take much to make a 15mm infantry unit look good. They don't look too amazing up close but on a gaming board they look right/effective. I basically primed black, base coated in khaki leaving some black in shadowed areas then added some brown for pants, darker brown for boots and guns then olive for helmets then the skin tone, as well as a colour (forgot which) for webbing and slings. They look good enough at a distance of about 15cm
![Wash & Drybrush: Super Easy US Armor for Flames of War [How I Paint Things]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RZNgIttBT68/mqdefault.jpg)
![Flames of War Panzergrenadiers - Camo at 15mm Kept Simple! [How I Paint Things]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/h9w3hmoNhMc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Eminem - Fuel (Shady Edition) feat. Westside Boogie & GRIP [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k1OquBida9s/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. Learned a lot. I have been modeling for over 20 years. Always enjoy new approaches on the craft. Thank you
Simple answer: add brown to everything. Colors in scale tend to be more dull, so blacks become grays and whites become beige. It's due to less light on the subject, similar to looking at something in low light can make the colors appear to change and become more uniform. While that's what happens in real life, mini painting replies a lot on the painter him/herself, so you can choose to either add the effect, ingore it, or add more contrast to fight it.
It is similar to a dark khaki. Mud and dirt isn't just "brown." It can vary quite a bit depending on area and moisture content. You tend to only see real brown dirt or mud in areas of high decomposition, like a thick forest, or man-made enriched soil, like a lawn.
I've seen dioramas, but not with that many figs. I'm sure they are out there, though.
I am very much a fan of the high contrast painting you do.
Great video. I like the fact you paint the base first which speeds up the process because you are not so worried about the odd flick of paint getting on the troops.
Thank you very much for this, I’m recently getting into the game and need to learn the basics of painting them. I have loads of experience with 1/72 figures but the way I did it was much more different and I never really realized how much more difficult I was making it for myself
Nice video, your explanations are always done with the viewer in mind!
Amazing. Thanks for a very instructive tutorial. Ill be starting on a rifle platoon tonight using these techniques.
The other advantage of the wet palette is the saving of colors mixed. I got a really good shade for brown violet (for US tanks and helmets) that I mixed, and it's still good after more than a month. I mainly paint RPG figs (aka D&D), so it's nice to have the colors I dont use that much (WWII military) ready to go when I (or my brothers) need them. I work overnights, and on break I can break out my palete and get some work done. If I am calld,I can leave and the paint is fine when I get back
Great video, I have only progressed to the stage of using the straight colours (if you ca believe that). Thanks for a nice demonstration of shading, and picking out details. I will be trying this later on. Keep up the good work!
I'm the wrong person to ask when it comes to actual play. I've only played 2 games in 6 months! Machine guns and mortars is all I can suggest.
They should be easier to paint cause the detail will be visible to paint rather than just a blob of metal.
nice how to very clear and easy to follow .. and love to see other Flames palyers model there guys... i got some tips from this that i will be eager to try ... ty for sharing and keep em coming..Cheers Hp
im getting the open fire sterter set this will help me a lot awsome work
I use a white porcelain tile too in addition to the wet palette, but @Kodokijolyus is having palette drying issues. The wet palette is the solution for that. One can try and be more careful with keeping paint on a dry palette wet, but that can be a nuisance if one is concentrating on some detail. If I need the paint dryer (or even wetter) I bring it to the white tile and get it to the consistancy needed there.
886 Green Grey. If I said Panzer Gray, I actually meant 995 German Grey.
Just ordered the British Para motor team by bolt action though. Love these little figures.
You can't go by chip colors. Those are made by a printer and often inaccurate.
I don't like them. I prefer to have more control over my paint. With a regular palette you can thin, or let it dry out a bit for thicker paint, as needed.
good video, I like that you can share vallejo colors used, as I loved the color scheme.
congratulations
It is a pity, but now some parts of the video have no sound at all. Any chance that we will see version with sound again?
This video and your talent are awesome!
loved your video!
One piece of feedback thouigh; the quality of them would improve greatly if you listed the colours you use either in text here or on screen at the end of the video... Sometimes you mumble and it is hard to hear and other times you say Vallejo beige and it leaves you wondering if it is a game or model colour or from the aces series.
Thanks making it though. Great job!
Lars Leonhard Drachmann Already been doing that for years.
Thanks for this video! I just finished putting together about 2500 points of russians and was hoping you had a video on basing them. I used to use the "basetex" stuff that brookhurst carried but it's been over 15 years since they last stocked that.
Hopefully we can play a game some time!
Nice choice of background music! It worked out well
Cheers
I love my Stuarts!
okay thankyou , ill look around i have done 1/72 ww2 stuff for about 5 years now i was just thinking of starting something new
I can't believe no one's mentioned how fucking good the music is yet.
Which ones? Vallejo uses a funky dual number system that just makes it more confusing.
quality painting
That depends on which Armylist(Book, Company) you're planing to use.
But overall, Artillery and Tank destroyers are viable Options. Both have really good Special Rules, in case you play the U.S Paras. The specific Type once again depends on the used Armylist.
Ps. Sorry for my English. I'm way outta training. But i hope it's understandable. ;D
Have you tried using a wet palette? There's a number of youtube vids that tell how to make them. They are really helpful for keeping paints wet. I store my wet pallette in the fridge becuase I mix colors and I dont want to keep remixing them. I have been using the same palette for about 2 months now.
you are so good at painting flames :)
When ever I play I always use Stuarts. Stuarts are very little points and have a ton of mgs. With a coax and hull and aa mgs Stuarts are very strong. They also move 16 inches to get right into the enemy's face. Don't send them against tanks but infantry. So if you use them correctly they can be incredibly over powered. One game I played I was against a SS company and killed 2 fearless Veteran platoons loosing one Stuart. They can changed the tide of the battle easily if you avoid enemy tanks.
Just starting to get into Flames of War and want to do paratroopers, I'm the only allied player in my area! Great video and hope to watch more! We are starting from Market Garden onwards. Right now I only have the Parachute Rifle Company. What do you suggest I should add onto it from there?
Awesome thank you very much! I hope I make them look half as good as yours!
#2. The same size I use for everything.
Yes.
I rarely play. I haven't painted any British, so I cannot give any suggestions on them.
Have a look on the Rapid Fire!/Valiant minis website.
Princeton Art & Brush Co. 4050R #2.
I don't use Citadel, so I don't know.
I am also just getting started with Flames of war and like the way you don't use metallic paint for guns. However what would you suggest using for brassas in shell casings?
I like the base, but I'm a bit confused on the steps. You use vallejo burnt umber as base, then some kind of dry brush with flat earth, but then I got confuse because you mention 3 more colors. Can you explain to me how did you made the base step by step?
Model color
I was wondering two things first was it Green Grey or Green Gray and the other thing is what colors were used for metal on the weapons cold gray and what is the other I can't seem to find a panzer gray?
do people make dioramas with 15mm scale , say like sticking up to 50 separate soldiers on one big base with terrain etc ?
hi thank for showing how to highlight i was having some trouble now that i have watched this it has help me alot thank you do you have any video on us infantay?
With the new FoW starter set will the airborne being plastic and having more detail change anything.
How do you keep your brush point, well, pointy?
Use the side of the brush, not the tip, as much as possible. Don't leave it soaking in your water basin. Use brush soap after each painting session.
Beautiful video! Thank you for sharing. Now I saw that the thumbnails are metal , as you did, could teach us?
Vallejo Golden Brown
Can you LIST the colours you use here? Audio muted in several sections.
Thank you sir.
Where did u get those figures? I’m getting into this and I can’t really find some figures I’ve been wanting to use. These would work perfectly for what I want
These are battlefront/Flames Of War airborne.
thanks for the advice I think your videos are terrific only wish I could paint like that. One other question what size of brushes do you use for 15mm as it is difficult to tell from the videos as they look quite large but then so do the figures?
Pure Gold, as most of your videos. Nevertheless, I have a question: why didn't you paint the airborne, just like the US troops in your other video, glued on a stick? Wouldn't that be more comfortable?
Bartolomapple I prefer to base them. The other video was more geared for speed painting.
Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic
Thank you. Than I will try that, too. So far the ''on a stick'' method worked pretty well for me.
You may want to place the camera in a different postion, because your hands keep getting in the way. Plus the camera seems to have a hard time focusing too.
Is there a chance for you to give exact numbering of colors that you used? I cant find all of them on vallejo's site. Thx.
Do you have any tips on painting british infantry?
what brushes did you use? they look very high quality. can you tell me the types?
you can make a list of what colors you use for flames of war
How you paint 15mm minis is beyond me. I find 1:72 already too small to paint, yet you're able to paint 15mm with details... please give us mere mortals some pointers man. Maybe about primer paint (my primer kept peeling off my soft plastic airfix), brush/paint (kept accidentally painted other area when I want to paint hard to reach details and my paint always dries on my palate way too quick). Thanks.
Very good vid, but I prefer to paint the minis and afterwards base them. That way I dont get flock on the figures.
Hi Doctor Faust, do you do commission painting? Your website is lead to a Japanese web.
+Ragnarclaw No and the address for the archived website is on the bottom of every video.
I don't want to strain you but can you find out the citadel equivalents.... If there are any
Great video!. Is the base colour Vallejo Panzer aces dark mud?
+Manolo Csx Yes.
Nice.
Hallo,
ich hätte mal eine Frage
Sind ihnen irgendwelche Modellbausätze von omnibussen aus der Zeit der Wehrmacht bekannt? den Omnibus Model W.39 gibts ja leider nur in 1.72 aber ich suche Modelle in 1:35
Tremendous
only vallejo colors you use?
Ok thanks anyway but do you know of a conversion sheet anywhere
Mint!
Were can i found your brush?
+Alan Andrés Art stores.
Use google, there is a ton of converting charts.
Anyone else getting audio cut outs?
Like I really want to get into Flames of War but I don't have the talent time or patience frankly to assemble an army. If anyone knows where in the Bay Area I could find someone to paint and assemble the miniatures for me please let me know.
in all honesty it doesn't take much to make a 15mm infantry unit look good. They don't look too amazing up close but on a gaming board they look right/effective. I basically primed black, base coated in khaki leaving some black in shadowed areas then added some brown for pants, darker brown for boots and guns then olive for helmets then the skin tone, as well as a colour (forgot which) for webbing and slings. They look good enough at a distance of about 15cm
Can you make a video for Germans
llmasterllp o
Whats that compound called....couldn't make out the name.
What are you referring to?
I was wondering what that compound that you used to fill in the spaces between the figures was.
matthew allen
Spackling paste, i.e. the stuff to fill in cracks in drywall.
Ahh....cool. Thanks for the info mate. Keep up the great vids, much appreciated by newbs like me. :)
Very helpful thank you!! But can you do Waffen SS please?
Nope. I've never painted them.
great video but change that music