Just bought a 2023 S130 w/30sec oil change feqature. Best video on this topic I have seen on YT! .8 qt changed of 2.7 qt total( on your machine )is totally absurd for an oil change as everone who chose to watch one of these videos realizes. I would comment that I see no need to prefill the replacement filter since the oil pump draws from the bottom of the sump. Just make sure to put a sufficient inital amount in and then add to correct level after running for a minute or two. i appreciate the time and effort you and all You Tubers put in on these DIY videos that are so helpful.
Thank you for posting this very helpful video. I just purchased a new S130 and am nowhere near the first oil change interval. I found the entire kit you described on Amazon for $19.99. I intend to install it during the first required oil change interval. I also found the oil filter cross reference useful. I watched another video where an actual John Deere maintenance technician recommended installing this kit so I feel confident that this a good and warranted conversion.
I'm about to pull the trigger on this mower and don't like the idea of not changing "all" of the oil with the filter. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks so much 🙏
JUST A THOUGHT COULDN'T YOU JUST SUCK OUT THE OIL FROM ENGINE AND STILL USE THE QUICK CHANGE FILTER? YES I KNOW YOU WOULD STILL HAVE TO BUY THE QUICK CHANGE FILTER AND ADDITIONAL OIL.
Great video, easy to follow. I suggest cleaning off the old oil where the new drain pipe and pipe nipple thread in to ensure the locktite will work properly. Thanks.
Terrific video! Anyone with even a minimal amount of experience withIC engines knows that if 1/3 to 1/ quarter of the old oil is left in the crank case, engine life will be shortened. This easy change oil system pioneered by Deere it’s truly a shame. Thank you for your video and pointing out the potential problem.
Neat Idea to sell replacement engines. You gotta hand it to John Deere. Plus they charge 52 bucks for a 6 dollar filter. Plus by putting .8 quart of Deere oil in filter it ties you to their iol to top off oil change. It adds up.
Ordered a s160 from HD yesterday and the first thing I noticed was the overly sized filter. After the HD sales person explained how convenient and easy the change was I was still puzzled how all the oil was trapped in the filter .Long story short , I'm here and just ordered the parts. Thank you sir
Great video!! Used it to order the kit ($20 including shipping) & will follow your excellent instructions to help install on my son’s E120 when he’s ready for the first oil change. I bought the J. D. for him as a gift for buying his first house & the first thing we both said was “what’s this big oil change contraption”
Dan, like I said in the video: unless you're one who just doesn't like to get their hands dirty, I think you'll be happier using the conversion kit and the traditional method...if, for no other reason, than you get a 'complete' oil change. Good luck, and feel free to reach out if you have questions. Thanks for watching and commenting. Dean
Dean, I liked your video. You did a great job. Those mountains in your opening looked a lot like my green hills near Chattanooga or Cumberland mountain. Thank you again from Cleveland Tn.
Hey Dennis. Glad to meet you. We come out to Tenn. quite often but haven't been to Cleveland, usually Gatlinburg cause it's not far away from us. Thanks for watching my video and I hope you subscribe for many more J.D. how-to's. Dean
Man I'm Shocked your comments and likes aren't to the moon this is Awesome my friend...I don't know why Jhon deere came up with this DUMB EASY 30 SECOND OIL CHANGE 🙄 ...oops that's right 🤑 Money 💰 you just saved me and many others alot of money...and simple conversion kit Great Video CHEERS 🍻
Thanks John. If you decide to go this route, I think you'll be pleased with the result. Someone suggested I dry the oil with a rag first before screwing in the new drain pipe with the LocTite on it, so I'd probably agree with that. Hope you'll subscribe John and good luck with all your projects. Dean
Thanks for the great video. Been wanting to swap out the Easy Change system for a while but after seeing this video I finally got to it. Got all the parts which was the easy part, although I will say I learned there is a longer hose type oil drain that can be used were the plug was in lieu of the drainpipe you described. The hose loops upward with a cap and JD has a connection already built right into the engine cover to hook onto which keeps it out of the way once the engine cover is put down in place. The hose seems another inch or two longer which may work a bit better and to keep oil draining further away from the unit. Will have to see how the pipe works out next season. Anyway, my main mistake here was trying to overtech the way I covered the frame and other components from keeping oil off them and draining into the oil pan on both sides. My zealous ingenuity only made a much larger mess when the oil didn't go anywhere near where it was supposed to drain and thus dripped all over the underside drive belts and tensioners thus after spending an additional 2 hours cleaning up the mess I now have drive slippage when I engage it in either fwd or reverse. I'm hoping next season over time this goes away as I use the tractor. What I didn't think of and stupid me with 2 different units at my disposal was to avoid all that potential oil draining mess and use either my manual or electric oil drain system which goes right into the dipstick pipe and sucks out all the oil, that way you minimize any mess when removing the Easy Change System and replacing the drain plug with the new hose type style or pipe. Any oil you get after using that method should be very minimal and easy to manage the clean-up. Otherwise, great video.
Thanks for viewing D'N'R'. Ouch, I'll bet that oil on the belts was a mess indeed. Once cleaned off at the beginning of the next mowing season, I know they make some spray that keeps fan belts from slipping and squealing and I wonder if that would provide enough grip to stop the slip?
Any chance of providing a link or more details on the "hose" you mentioned? I found a couple of options on Amazon but not sure if they are what you used and I like the idea that the one you got was the correct size to reach the storage hook.
Got a feeling you're yanking my chain Mr. Watts. My wife tells people I dress like Mr. Douglas on Green Acres when working on dirty projects. If you recall, he used to plow the fields in his necktie. Thanks for viewing. Reach out with any questions you might have and please consider subscribing to my channel, as I have several J.Deere videos. Dean
I bought a new John deere mower a year ago. It’s a s220. That wasn’t my first choice. But the one I really wanted had that easy change oil filter.I did Not want that. So I had to get my 2ed choice. Damn I wish I would have known about this conversion kit back then. I’m still not real happy with my s220. It has that new cyclonic engine. Dang thing sounds like it’s gona rattle apart at any time. You did a nice job on the video. Your dad looked right at home on that mower.👍🇺🇸😃
Thanks Thomas, he was and still is. He is 95 and mows 5 yards a week. I help him as I can. That JD is the best mower he has. I wish you had gotten the one you wanted sir. Thanks for the kind words and for viewing. Hope you will subscribe and check out my other JD videos. Dean
My JD tractor is the old style with a screw on filter cartridge. As far as a filter to use, I buy Fram or Walmart brand #3416 auto filters at Walmart. They are an identical diameter and thread match.The only difference is it is slightly longer. You have to add just slightly more oil with each change. I pay between $3-4 for these filters. Been using these for years with no trouble.
Yep, as long as access permits(not restricted by cover) the 3614 and equivalent auto filters work great. They cost less than an OPE filter and many times, include a silicone adbv for the lower price. A win-win.
Thanks for the video. Everything went well except installing the nipple for the standard oil filter. The 3/8 socket extension was way too loose in the nipple???I had to get creative LOL and i used the head of a carriage bolt of the correct size with 2 nuts locked together on the end with threads , put the head of the bolt in the nipple and tightened it with a socket wrench. hey ..whatever works right !
Thanks for this video. I recently bought the S120 mower and was so surprised by the price of the oil filter. I will be clicking on your link for this kit asap. Oh and being that I am 60 years old I love that your wearing the loafers and black socks, reminds me of a time long ago. Just tried to order on that link they are sold out.
Sorry about that source being sold out but I’ve seen that same kit at other locations on eBay. I’ve over 60 BTW and the loafers are easier to put on. Lol
As dirty as lawn's are and as dirty as I've seen my oil between changes even 'with' a filter, I'd rather run one than not. If I had the opportunity to run two at a time, I'd do that too. My L130 is over 20 years old and I use an oil filter, so what does that mean?
I use to have a John Deere la 125, that I would do all my own maintenance. It was easy to work on. This year I bought a John Deere s120 with the easy oil change. What are the engineers at John Deere thinking replacing just a1/2 qt. Of oil when the machine holds two qts. My thought John Deere is looking to sell more mowers over the years. Before the first oil change, I change it back to the conventional oil change kit that was in this video. Second thing that has me a little pissed there is no way to tighten the drive belt for the mower blades. Where it use to be a sliding bracket to tight this belt, it is now welded in place. Can’t imagine why Deere would do this. Again the engineer’s screwed up. Third thing that gets me, the belt cover bolts are now in a location that is more difficult to get to. You will also notice if you have a bagging system on your machine it is tougher to add gasoline because the gas spout comes out at an angle tilting at the bags instead of straight up like the old machines. Just my opinion John deers is looking to sell more machines, and screw the buyer. Plus the engineer’s suck.
Thanks Roland. I know, due to all the JD videos on my site, it appears I am a fan, but actually I am pretty much brand agnostic. This is what I have, so I shoot videos on what I have. My opinion is, that if you have a strong engine and deck, you have 75 percent of what it takes to have a good mower. Transmission is important too as you will see in some upcoming videos soon,. Hope I can talk you into subscribing. Dean
Awesome video my friend, very informative and well presented, I have a new e160 and I'm due for my first oil change (8) hours, once again thanks for a great video and I subscribed to your channel!
@@PilotViewProductions I'll probably just do the quick one for now as it's due, then I'll order the parts like you did for your dad and change it either before I put it away for winter or in the spring.
Great well produced vid, just bought a S 130 and can't wait to get rid of that quick change system. I tried to link to the ebay kit and it didn't seem to be able to find the product. Can you give me the part description so I can chase it down that way? Thanks for the nice vid...
WHY would you use a Torx bit on a part that, anyone with a basic amount of mechanical knowledge, would use an Allen socket? I appreciate the video. Thanks and take care.
The big filter actually has a bigger filter media. I bought the kit to change my S170 over to the old filter, but I think I'm going to keep the big filter and add the drain nipple. Yes, the newer filter costs more money, but it isn't like you're spending that monthly, unless you have a yard business. Some people spend more than that on Starbucks coffee a week.
@@2015_Rubicnn I did read it the first time and that works fine for you but : not everyone is going to do that and : you’re going to have to add additional oil with every change since the new filter will not contain enough oil to make up for the additional you drained causing you to spend even more money per change.
That's a 'great' idea. Wish I had thought of it. Thanks for viewing and commenting Don. Please consider subscribing. I've got at least 3 more J.D. videos coming soon. Dean
Bolts aren't metric Mr. Bob, I'm just using metric wrenches cause I understand that a 10 is bigger than a 9, versus the 3/8 and 11/16ths fractions. lol
I removed those 2 black plastic panels from each side of the engine compartment as they were falling off anyhow and their removal allows better cooling and easier access to the oil filter and drain spout. When I finally bit the bullet and converted the "easy change" to the regular oil filter, and I drained the old, old, old oil out I was appalled at what I discovered. The residual oil was more than the easy change capacity was and was way more than half the total. And what's more, the oil was extremely dirty with clots of solid oil formed. I suspect portions of the old oil had formed acids that were eating the inside of my engine (Kawasaki). I had noticed excessive blue/gray exhaust on start ups and a somewhat noisier engine than the one I had 3 years ago when the mower was new. Do youself a favor and get rid of the so called easy change crap.
But that's the point sptrader...those who chose to do the quick change aren't going to take the time to drain all the oil...it defeats the purpose of the '5 minute' oil change. 'And' if they 'are' going to practice draining all the oil as messy as that's going to be without this kit, then they should just order the kit and convert it back.
Note: Good idea although engine oil capacity will be reduced. May lead to higher oil operating temps and reduced oil life (accelerated oxidation). Not ideal in a air cooled engine! Best idea would be to retain quick oil change filter and drain sump oil at each oil service (and top up with JD oil with same spec as used in quick oil change filter). Yes it will be expensive this way but you will retain the original specifed oil capacity of engine and optimum engine life .
What makes you think engine oil capacity will be reduced when we're reverting back to the original manner of oil changes including filling the sump to recommended capacity?
Oil capacity appears to be reduced as the extra large filter also becomes a secondary sump holding a reasonable amount of oil . In comparison, the standard filter acts mainly as a filter with little oil sump or reserve capacity The sump in the bottom of the engine remains the same. Oil analysis will definitely tell what's going on after a normal change period!
@@chrisleduc1017 Because it's close to oil and gasoline, I would not recommend heat. Find the correct sized socket to fit it instead. Perhaps try an impact wrench or use a breaker bar. Make sure you're turning it counter-clockwise.
I had to use my electric torque driver to get the 1 1/8 " bolt off that stupid Easy Change oil flange. it must have been torqued on at the factory. Maybe because more and more people are doing this. Another thing I don't like about the conversion kit is that plastic rubber seal lock cap at the end of the drain tube. What if you somehow hit something hard on that while mowing. Crazy things do happen when mowing. That plastic could break off and all the engine oil could blow right out of the engine in less than a minute and you wouldn't even know it until the engine was ruined. Any drain tube I have ever seen on John Deere mowers have had a screw in/out metal plug, exactly like the one you take off to put this extension drain tube on. Metal to metal is the only way. I think I'm going to look for the old school kind on line and replace that too. You just have to know the liberal eco-nuts have been horribly harrassing John Deere to do these most stupid things.
You can suit yourself, but I've been running an L-130 JD for close to 19 years with no issues with that plastic seal lock cap, so it's been around a while. No leaks, no dry rot, no breakage, nothing so far has hit it. I'm not a fan of the design, but heck, it works. As far as the 'reason', it's all about the Benjamins brother and how JD can save a few I'm sure.
JUST A THOUGHT COULDN'T YOU JUST SUCK OUT THE OIL FROM ENGINE AND STILL USE THE QUICK CHANGE FILTER? YES I KNOW YOU WOULD STILL HAVE TO BUY THE QUICK CHANGE FILTER AND ADDITIONAL OIL.
No doubt. But I think most folks would agree that paying extra for a quick change system that costs over 3 times more per oil change, 'and' still having to suck out the old oil, 'and' having to supplement by adding additional new oil is not only not much of a bargain to say the least, but is 'way' over the top in terms of the effort it normally takes just to do an oil change.
Just bought a 2023 S130 w/30sec oil change feqature. Best video on this topic I have seen on YT! .8 qt changed of 2.7 qt total( on your machine )is totally absurd for an oil change as everone who chose to watch one of these videos realizes. I would comment that I see no need to prefill the replacement filter since the oil pump draws from the bottom of the sump. Just make sure to put a sufficient inital amount in and then add to correct level after running for a minute or two. i appreciate the time and effort you and all You Tubers put in on these DIY videos that are so helpful.
Thanks for viewing
Thank you for posting this very helpful video. I just purchased a new S130 and am nowhere near the first oil change interval. I found the entire kit you described on Amazon for $19.99. I intend to install it during the first required oil change interval. I also found the oil filter cross reference useful. I watched another video where an actual John Deere maintenance technician recommended installing this kit so I feel confident that this a good and warranted conversion.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Dean
I get mine tomorrow. You answered the question that the oil filter has the amount of oil.
Thank you.
Good job Roy. Excellent choice I think. Dean
I'm about to pull the trigger on this mower and don't like the idea of not changing "all" of the oil with the filter. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks so much 🙏
Good luck with it Beau. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please consider subscribing for many more J.D. videos. Dean
JUST A THOUGHT COULDN'T YOU JUST SUCK OUT THE OIL FROM ENGINE AND STILL USE THE QUICK CHANGE FILTER? YES I KNOW YOU WOULD STILL HAVE TO BUY THE QUICK CHANGE FILTER AND ADDITIONAL OIL.
There's usually a fix or conversion for just about everything. Great information Dean, thank you and God Bless my friend 🙏 Jay.
Thanks again for watching Jay. Hope you’re having a good weekend.
After my 1st year with my E120, I did the conversion, after draining the oil and saw how much wasn't being filtered. Great upgrade.
Thanks for viewing and the comments. Totally agree.
Excellent video. Very clear instructions. I especially liked the identification of the tools and part numbers needed. Thank you!
Thanks for viewing and for the kind comments
Great video, easy to follow. I suggest cleaning off the old oil where the new drain pipe and pipe nipple thread in to ensure the locktite will work properly. Thanks.
Thanks is for viewing and the great suggestion.
Terrific video! Anyone with even a minimal amount of experience withIC engines knows that if 1/3 to 1/ quarter of the old oil is left in the crank case, engine life will be shortened. This easy change oil system pioneered by Deere it’s truly a shame. Thank you for your video and pointing out the potential problem.
Thanks for watching. I agree with your assessment. Dean
Neat Idea to sell replacement engines. You gotta hand it to John Deere. Plus they charge 52 bucks for a 6 dollar filter. Plus by putting .8 quart of Deere oil in filter it ties you to their iol to top off oil change. It adds up.
Ordered a s160 from HD yesterday and the first thing I noticed was the overly sized filter. After the HD sales person explained how convenient and easy the change was I was still puzzled how all the oil was trapped in the filter .Long story short , I'm here and just ordered the parts. Thank you sir
Thanks for viewing. I’m sure you won’t be sorry with your decision. Dean
Great video!! Used it to order the kit ($20 including shipping) & will follow your excellent instructions to help install on my son’s E120 when he’s ready for the first oil change. I bought the J. D. for him as a gift for buying his first house & the first thing we both said was “what’s this big oil change contraption”
Dan, like I said in the video: unless you're one who just doesn't like to get their hands dirty, I think you'll be happier using the conversion kit and the traditional method...if, for no other reason, than you get a 'complete' oil change. Good luck, and feel free to reach out if you have questions. Thanks for watching and commenting. Dean
Dean, I liked your video. You did a great job. Those mountains in your opening looked a lot like my green hills near Chattanooga or Cumberland mountain. Thank you again from Cleveland Tn.
Hey Dennis. Glad to meet you. We come out to Tenn. quite often but haven't been to Cleveland, usually Gatlinburg cause it's not far away from us. Thanks for watching my video and I hope you subscribe for many more J.D. how-to's. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions I did and will watch often. You do a great job.
Man I'm Shocked your comments and likes aren't to the moon this is Awesome my friend...I don't know why Jhon deere came up with this DUMB EASY 30 SECOND OIL CHANGE 🙄 ...oops that's right 🤑 Money 💰 you just saved me and many others alot of money...and simple conversion kit Great Video CHEERS 🍻
Thanks ‘FJ’ for watching and for the compliment. Happy to save you some $$$. Cheers. Dean
Great video well explained. Explaining the tools used really helped. Thanks again.
Thanks John. If you decide to go this route, I think you'll be pleased with the result. Someone suggested I dry the oil with a rag first before screwing in the new drain pipe with the LocTite on it, so I'd probably agree with that. Hope you'll subscribe John and good luck with all your projects. Dean
Thanks for the great video. Been wanting to swap out the Easy Change system for a while but after seeing this video I finally got to it. Got all the parts which was the easy part, although I will say I learned there is a longer hose type oil drain that can be used were the plug was in lieu of the drainpipe you described. The hose loops upward with a cap and JD has a connection already built right into the engine cover to hook onto which keeps it out of the way once the engine cover is put down in place. The hose seems another inch or two longer which may work a bit better and to keep oil draining further away from the unit. Will have to see how the pipe works out next season. Anyway, my main mistake here was trying to overtech the way I covered the frame and other components from keeping oil off them and draining into the oil pan on both sides. My zealous ingenuity only made a much larger mess when the oil didn't go anywhere near where it was supposed to drain and thus dripped all over the underside drive belts and tensioners thus after spending an additional 2 hours cleaning up the mess I now have drive slippage when I engage it in either fwd or reverse. I'm hoping next season over time this goes away as I use the tractor. What I didn't think of and stupid me with 2 different units at my disposal was to avoid all that potential oil draining mess and use either my manual or electric oil drain system which goes right into the dipstick pipe and sucks out all the oil, that way you minimize any mess when removing the Easy Change System and replacing the drain plug with the new hose type style or pipe. Any oil you get after using that method should be very minimal and easy to manage the clean-up. Otherwise, great video.
Thanks for viewing D'N'R'. Ouch, I'll bet that oil on the belts was a mess indeed. Once cleaned off at the beginning of the next mowing season, I know they make some spray that keeps fan belts from slipping and squealing and I wonder if that would provide enough grip to stop the slip?
Any chance of providing a link or more details on the "hose" you mentioned? I found a couple of options on Amazon but not sure if they are what you used and I like the idea that the one you got was the correct size to reach the storage hook.
@@gregbert2000you can find the part referenced in a channel called diy boomers
It’s the old cloths you use to do mechanical conversion that’s the most impressive part of your video 😁 parts ordered thx
Got a feeling you're yanking my chain Mr. Watts. My wife tells people I dress like Mr. Douglas on Green Acres when working on dirty projects. If you recall, he used to plow the fields in his necktie. Thanks for viewing. Reach out with any questions you might have and please consider subscribing to my channel, as I have several J.Deere videos. Dean
I bought a new John deere mower a year ago. It’s a s220. That wasn’t my first choice. But the one I really wanted had that easy change oil filter.I did Not want that. So I had to get my 2ed choice. Damn I wish I would have known about this conversion kit back then. I’m still not real happy with my s220. It has that new cyclonic engine. Dang thing sounds like it’s gona rattle apart at any time. You did a nice job on the video. Your dad looked right at home on that mower.👍🇺🇸😃
Thanks Thomas, he was and still is. He is 95 and mows 5 yards a week. I help him as I can. That JD is the best mower he has. I wish you had gotten the one you wanted sir. Thanks for the kind words and for viewing. Hope you will subscribe and check out my other JD videos. Dean
Excellent demonstration. Thanks
Thanks for viewing
My JD tractor is the old style with a screw on filter cartridge. As far as a filter to use, I buy Fram or Walmart brand #3416 auto filters at Walmart. They are an identical diameter and thread match.The only difference is it is slightly longer. You have to add just slightly more oil with each change. I pay between $3-4 for these filters. Been using these for years with no trouble.
Yep, as long as access permits(not restricted by cover) the 3614 and equivalent auto filters work great. They cost less than an OPE filter and many times, include a silicone adbv for the lower price. A win-win.
GREAT video- Thank you for taking time to do it!
Thanks for viewing Lonnie
Thanks for the video. Everything went well except installing the nipple for the standard oil filter. The 3/8 socket extension was way too loose in the nipple???I had to get creative LOL and i used the head of a carriage bolt of the correct size with 2 nuts locked together on the end with threads , put the head of the bolt in the nipple and tightened it with a socket wrench. hey ..whatever works right !
Wow that’s a great idea. Yeah I suppose all nipples are not created equal. Lol. Thanks for watching. Dean
12 mm allen wrench does the job
Great video, plan on doing this conversion on my first oil change on my new S180.
Thanks for viewing. Check back in with me and let me know how your project progressed.
The easy oil change concept was thought up by the same guy who thought plastic hoods are a great idea and more safety switches are better.
Good point
Thank the government for the safety switches. They are easily bypassed, to make your life easier.
Excellent Video, Thanks for making it!
Thanks for watching Joe.
For my dad it's great. He does 90% of all maintenance and keeps his hands clean. Otherwise I wouldn't have let him get the caddilac of lawn tractors!
Great repair! Small carburetors and myself have never been good together.
Thanks for this video. I recently bought the S120 mower and was so surprised by the price of the oil filter. I will be clicking on your link for this kit asap. Oh and being that I am 60 years old I love that your wearing the loafers and black socks, reminds me of a time long ago. Just tried to order on that link they are sold out.
Sorry about that source being sold out but I’ve seen that same kit at other locations on eBay. I’ve over 60 BTW and the loafers are easier to put on. Lol
Whats with the oil filters on lawn tractors ? My 1971 wheel horse never had any kind od oil filter and still runs better than these new junkers !
As dirty as lawn's are and as dirty as I've seen my oil between changes even 'with' a filter, I'd rather run one than not. If I had the opportunity to run two at a time, I'd do that too. My L130 is over 20 years old and I use an oil filter, so what does that mean?
What a great conversion, kit.. Although the tractor should have came made this way hands down
Totally agree. Thanks for viewing. Dean
Great walk through video! Thank you!
Thanks Jamie. Hope some of my other JD videos help as well. Dean
Thank you so much. This video was very helpful and excellent.
Glad it was helpful!
I use to have a John Deere la 125, that I would do all my own maintenance. It was easy to work on. This year I bought a John Deere s120 with the easy oil change. What are the engineers at John Deere thinking replacing just a1/2 qt. Of oil when the machine holds two qts. My thought John Deere is looking to sell more mowers over the years. Before the first oil change, I change it back to the conventional oil change kit that was in this video. Second thing that has me a little pissed there is no way to tighten the drive belt for the mower blades. Where it use to be a sliding bracket to tight this belt, it is now welded in place. Can’t imagine why Deere would do this. Again the engineer’s screwed up. Third thing that gets me, the belt cover bolts are now in a location that is more difficult to get to. You will also notice if you have a bagging system on your machine it is tougher to add gasoline because the gas spout comes out at an angle tilting at the bags instead of straight up like the old machines. Just my opinion John deers is looking to sell more machines, and screw the buyer. Plus the engineer’s suck.
Thanks Roland. I know, due to all the JD videos on my site, it appears I am a fan, but actually I am pretty much brand agnostic. This is what I have, so I shoot videos on what I have. My opinion is, that if you have a strong engine and deck, you have 75 percent of what it takes to have a good mower. Transmission is important too as you will see in some upcoming videos soon,. Hope I can talk you into subscribing. Dean
Awesome video my friend, very informative and well presented, I have a new e160 and I'm due for my first oil change (8) hours, once again thanks for a great video and I subscribed to your channel!
Thanks for viewing and subscribing Collin. Have you decided which route you’re going with the oil change?
@@PilotViewProductions I'll probably just do the quick one for now as it's due, then I'll order the parts like you did for your dad and change it either before I put it away for winter or in the spring.
Good deal. Yell back at me if you have any questions. Glad to help.
Great well produced vid, just bought a S 130 and can't wait to get rid of that quick change system. I tried to link to the ebay kit and it didn't seem to be able to find the product. Can you give me the part description so I can chase it down that way? Thanks for the nice vid...
Great video! Now I’m torn if I want the 30 second. lol
The litmus test for me is: how long do you need to keep your mower running in good condition?
@@PilotViewProductions I have 1/3 of an acre. So I was debating on the 100 or 120. Ideally I’d like it to last forever & run good. lol
WHY would you use a Torx bit on a part that, anyone with a basic amount of mechanical knowledge, would use an Allen socket? I appreciate the video. Thanks and take care.
The only logical conclusion is that I don’t have a basic knowledge of mechanics
The big filter actually has a bigger filter media. I bought the kit to change my S170 over to the old filter, but I think I'm going to keep the big filter and add the drain nipple. Yes, the newer filter costs more money, but it isn't like you're spending that monthly, unless you have a yard business. Some people spend more than that on Starbucks coffee a week.
I think the larger issue is that, all the old oil is not anywhere close to being replaced when changing using the new method.
@@PilotViewProductions Yes, I'm aware of that. Read what I typed...
@@2015_Rubicnn I did read it the first time and that works fine for you but : not everyone is going to do that and : you’re going to have to add additional oil with every change since the new filter will not contain enough oil to make up for the additional you drained causing you to spend even more money per change.
@PilotViewProductions Cool, it works for me, and a little extra oil doesn't cost that much. It's not your changing your oil once a week.
I use aluminum foil and form a sorta of a funnel to drain the oil until the new part is installed.
That's a 'great' idea. Wish I had thought of it. Thanks for viewing and commenting Don. Please consider subscribing. I've got at least 3 more J.D. videos coming soon. Dean
The oil filter adaptor takes a 12 mm allen to install….not torx 😊
Why are all those bolts metric? I thought this was made in the USA? Anyway good video. Thanks.
Bolts aren't metric Mr. Bob, I'm just using metric wrenches cause I understand that a 10 is bigger than a 9, versus the 3/8 and 11/16ths fractions. lol
Oil filter for my S130 priced at $56.00 changed mine out ,removed drain plug from engine still got good bit of old oil out engine BAD IDEA JOHN DEERE
I wonder if the engine runs cooler or hotter now.
I wouldn’t think that would make a difference however; longevity of the engine should be a factor since more dirty oil is being replaced.
That's not new Technology, it's old. The military stays at least 40 years ahead of us.
How often do you change the oil with the new conversion?
Every 50 hours
does this kit work for the JD S170 tractor?
If it has the quick change kit then I’m saying yes.
I removed those 2 black plastic panels from each side of the engine compartment as they were falling off anyhow and their removal allows better cooling and easier access to the oil filter and drain spout. When I finally bit the bullet and converted the "easy change" to the regular oil filter, and I drained the old, old, old oil out I was appalled at what I discovered. The residual oil was more than the easy change capacity was and was way more than half the total. And what's more, the oil was extremely dirty with clots of solid oil formed. I suspect portions of the old oil had formed acids that were eating the inside of my engine (Kawasaki). I had noticed excessive blue/gray exhaust on start ups and a somewhat noisier engine than the one I had 3 years ago when the mower was new.
Do youself a favor and get rid of the so called easy change crap.
Thanks for the informative information. Just what we suspected. Dean
The filter is about $50 now. If you use the original quick change filter, you should drain all of the oil.
But that's the point sptrader...those who chose to do the quick change aren't going to take the time to drain all the oil...it defeats the purpose of the '5 minute' oil change. 'And' if they 'are' going to practice draining all the oil as messy as that's going to be without this kit, then they should just order the kit and convert it back.
Can I use this conversion kit on the John Deere E130 mower?
If the same sized oil filter works for both, then yes.
yes. I just ordered one for my E120.
Note: Good idea although engine oil capacity will be reduced. May lead to higher oil operating temps and reduced oil life (accelerated oxidation). Not ideal in a air cooled engine! Best idea would be to retain quick oil change filter and drain sump oil at each oil service (and top up with JD oil with same spec as used in quick oil change filter). Yes it will be expensive this way but you will retain the original specifed oil capacity of engine and optimum engine life .
What makes you think engine oil capacity will be reduced when we're reverting back to the original manner of oil changes including filling the sump to recommended capacity?
Oil capacity appears to be reduced as the extra large filter also becomes a secondary sump holding a reasonable amount of oil . In comparison, the standard filter acts mainly as a filter with little oil sump or reserve capacity
The sump in the bottom of the engine remains the same.
Oil analysis will definitely tell what's going on after a normal change period!
Im converting....!
Thanks for watching
Has anyone in Canada figured out how to source these parts ? Especially the filter nipple
I just bought the parts separately from my John Deere dealer.
I have a John Deere s120 they put Loctite on it and I won’t come off and he suggestions And a 13 mm will not fit it
What are you saying ‘they’ put LocTite on?
Yes it came with loctite on where the oil is supposed to come out
Should I try heat on it
@@chrisleduc1017 Because it's close to oil and gasoline, I would not recommend heat. Find the correct sized socket to fit it instead. Perhaps try an impact wrench or use a breaker bar. Make sure you're turning it counter-clockwise.
The concept is great, BUT,
the price tag of $75 not so much.
!
…and the fact that you never really change ‘all’ the old oil.
The filter is now $55.00
It's $70 now!
Wow
@@PilotViewProductions
I am going to covert it back to the old way again for that very reason.
I had to use my electric torque driver to get the 1 1/8 " bolt off that stupid Easy Change oil flange. it must have been torqued on at the factory. Maybe because more and more people are doing this. Another thing I don't like about the conversion kit is that plastic rubber seal lock cap at the end of the drain tube. What if you somehow hit something hard on that while mowing. Crazy things do happen when mowing. That plastic could break off and all the engine oil could blow right out of the engine in less than a minute and you wouldn't even know it until the engine was ruined. Any drain tube I have ever seen on John Deere mowers have had a screw in/out metal plug, exactly like the one you take off to put this extension drain tube on. Metal to metal is the only way. I think I'm going to look for the old school kind on line and replace that too. You just have to know the liberal eco-nuts have been horribly harrassing John Deere to do these most stupid things.
You can suit yourself, but I've been running an L-130 JD for close to 19 years with no issues with that plastic seal lock cap, so it's been around a while. No leaks, no dry rot, no breakage, nothing so far has hit it. I'm not a fan of the design, but heck, it works. As far as the 'reason', it's all about the Benjamins brother and how JD can save a few I'm sure.
Yeah you could for sure just get pipe fittings ... a nipple of suitable length, maybe a 90 degree elbow pointing down, and a pipe plug.
JUST A THOUGHT COULDN'T YOU JUST SUCK OUT THE OIL FROM ENGINE AND STILL USE THE QUICK CHANGE FILTER? YES I KNOW YOU WOULD STILL HAVE TO BUY THE QUICK CHANGE FILTER AND ADDITIONAL OIL.
No doubt. But I think most folks would agree that paying extra for a quick change system that costs over 3 times more per oil change, 'and' still having to suck out the old oil, 'and' having to supplement by adding additional new oil is not only not much of a bargain to say the least, but is 'way' over the top in terms of the effort it normally takes just to do an oil change.
John Deere has botched both this and Right To Repair on their farm equipment. They should be ashamed.
40 dollars"!!!! These filters are $55.99 at Home Depot in Hamilton Ohio 😫 Gheeesh. 👎
Please keep in mind the date of the video
Lows 55$
John Deere has lost their minds. They should have left it the way it was.
Folksy👎🏻
@@fb510m Haaaa. Four words for you: 1: Use 2: Your 3: Volume 4: Control. Lol
John deere lawn and garden tractors are garbage pure trash 🗑
I see
This system is insanely stupid. I hate John deere