I'm new to the world of E-bikes and I'm on my path to building my first one, actually. Channels like yours are an invaluable treasure trove of information. I just wanted to take a moment and thank you for posting these videos. Thank you.
Loctite 660 will fill the gap and retain the shaft in the bearing as long as there isn't something else going on. Helical gears like these have significant axial loading, I wonder if there's a thrust bearing not doing its job.
I have the 750w mid drive and I've just clocked over 6000 kilometers and I've just replaced a worn out 8 speed shimano cassette and chain wheel. Gone with the stock 44t and upgraded to a 42/12 microshift cassette. The chain is fairly new and no signs of wear. Now since I've had the motor out and regressed the whole motor I'm getting a squeaky chain noise coming from the motor. I'm puzxeled cause I know I added enough good quality grease to it
2000 miles and getting noisy is piss poor , they really need to improve the motor design . I compare it too my car engine that left the factory in 2001 and has never been opened and still runs like a beauty . They need to do better .
Good morning , I did not understand how the motor drives , because it is linked to a plastic gear that is silly , it does not hold , as it has an internal bearing .
build up the shaft end with a MIG or TIG, then turn it back to original on a lathe. Engineering shop can do it. Get some Iridium into the build up alloy.
The Weicon AN 306-41 shaft glue (20 ml pen) will do the job if you can not obtain the Loctite. Costs some 12-14 euro.. I will do the operation this weekend... :)
Without seeing more, I would say: "time for a new bushing". But, I think I saw another vid of yours so, you've likely figgered that out. Thanks! Jim@MidOhio
im concenred about the amount of force these motor put on bike frames and also the pulling forcing on the rear swing arm and axle/dropout hub. . consider an electric car jack uses a 12v 120w motor to lift a 1 ton car. only a properly tested frame by manufacturers should be used with a motor rated for the force.
the pulling forces the motor creates is put onto the area the motor is attached to and is pulling on the frame when the motor is under load. its like a winch motor attached to a bike frame
Mike you're correct but so many people have proven this design to work just fine with regular bike frames. Of course I'd recommend using steel frame instead of an aluminum one but even those are strong enough for this motor. as a matter of fact they're making way more powerful motors today and those are just fine as well
@@mikex8254 You're confusing power and torque. A 120W motor needs loads more gearing reduction to lift a car than a 250W mid mount motor needs to turn a bicycle crank; the car goes up slowly, the bike goes 20MPH.
I'm new to the world of E-bikes and I'm on my path to building my first one, actually. Channels like yours are an invaluable treasure trove of information. I just wanted to take a moment and thank you for posting these videos.
Thank you.
Good information, great start.What was the solution?
Without a recording of the noise you're talking about this video isn't much help
Loctite 660 will fill the gap and retain the shaft in the bearing as long as there isn't something else going on. Helical gears like these have significant axial loading, I wonder if there's a thrust bearing not doing its job.
I have the 750w mid drive and I've just clocked over 6000 kilometers and I've just replaced a worn out 8 speed shimano cassette and chain wheel. Gone with the stock 44t and upgraded to a 42/12 microshift cassette. The chain is fairly new and no signs of wear. Now since I've had the motor out and regressed the whole motor I'm getting a squeaky chain noise coming from the motor. I'm puzxeled cause I know I added enough good quality grease to it
2000 miles and getting noisy is piss poor , they really need to improve the motor design .
I compare it too my car engine that left the factory in 2001 and has never been opened and still runs like a beauty .
They need to do better .
Good morning , I did not understand how the motor drives , because it is linked to a plastic gear that is silly , it does not hold , as it has an internal bearing .
build up the shaft end with a MIG or TIG, then turn it back to original on a lathe. Engineering shop can do it. Get some Iridium into the build up alloy.
Good idea. Someday I'll have a lathe.
The Weicon AN 306-41 shaft glue (20 ml pen) will do the job if you can not obtain the Loctite. Costs some 12-14 euro.. I will do the operation this weekend... :)
Try fusing the shaft with some instant gasket to the inside wall of the barring as long as the barring is spinning free it should hold the shaft true.
You can fix it with locktight red(glue). After that it can not vibrate.
what happened now ?????????
is it fixed ??????????????????????????????
Replace bearing use loctite 660 to fill gap
I had a motorbike with a similar problem I replaced bearing and turned the shaft and down and used a small Bush the motorbike is still running today
I'm having the same problem with 950 MI
Pack final drive gears full of grease.
Do you still have this motor? If you do, is it still working?
new bearing..?
maby you can use some plastikpadding steele
turn it down and put a bushing in it. Machine shop could do that
Or sleeve it if someone made a saver for something else with the same diameter.
@@Timanator or just buy new one.
Without seeing more, I would say: "time for a new bushing". But, I think I saw another vid of yours so, you've likely figgered that out. Thanks! Jim@MidOhio
im concenred about the amount of force these motor put on bike frames and also the pulling forcing on the rear swing arm and axle/dropout hub. . consider an electric car jack uses a 12v 120w motor to lift a 1 ton car. only a properly tested frame by manufacturers should be used with a motor rated for the force.
mike x the forces are absorbed by the tyres,against the ground if this was not the case a lot of frames would fail
the pulling forces the motor creates is put onto the area the motor is attached to and is pulling on the frame when the motor is under load. its like a winch motor attached to a bike frame
Mike you're correct but so many people have proven this design to work just fine with regular bike frames. Of course I'd recommend using steel frame instead of an aluminum one but even those are strong enough for this motor. as a matter of fact they're making way more powerful motors today and those are just fine as well
@@mikex8254 You're confusing power and torque. A 120W motor needs loads more gearing reduction to lift a car than a 250W mid mount motor needs to turn a bicycle crank; the car goes up slowly, the bike goes 20MPH.
Red loctite!
I don't remember what kind I used. Whatever I read on a forum. Hasn't acted up since.