Building The Worlds Craziest Overlanding Camper Truck - The ROOF
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
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Music:
Fareoh - Cloud Ten
When you get to the insulation stage, begin studying “thermal bridging”. You live and camp in the northwest and you will be so happy with your camper if you keep the thermal bridging as minimal as possible. Basically, those metal “studs” for the walls need to have some material on the inside face that keeps the cold from transmitting to the interior face of the wall. Even a thin layer of insulation felt on the inside of all your steel members will cut down drastically on the heat loss through the walls.
He doesn't listen about frame/cab flex, why would he care bout thermal bridging......
Great advice. Also, I can’t imagine that using an aluminum skin would save a lot of weight… not sure it would add THAT much cost. But it would be significantly lighter.
@@RealRickCox when dissimilar metals are in contact it can cause galvanic corrosion. It's certainly simpler to keep it all steel.
@@questioner1596 it's still worth adding a thermal Bridge. Even if using Steel in and out
@@questioner1596 Ahh okay. Shows you how much I know about metallurgy! 😂😂
What if the aluminum is coated with Alodine? Would that protect it? I’m familiar with using it to protect aircraft. Not sure how it would work in this situation.
One thing to consider is to reinforce your wheel wells in case of a blowout so when the tire blows, it doesn’t rip all the flooring out or any plumbing or wiring that’s from experience
im with you on this, if the frame twists at all thats going to be an issue. im guessing parts of the box frame build will bend. still wishing them best of luck though!
Love that you guys are willing to risk a complete fail on a project just to see if you can help people out. Nice that you'd be willing to take that loss to save viewers from taking it
love the build chris just maybe suggest rounding out the front? even forgetting the drag/fuel/noise at even 60mph thats alot of force on such a large vertical plate on the front that is going through those front mounting points as it levers and a high pressure area between the roof and the frame. Just interested to hear your thoughts
Shuttle bus bodies are mostly fiberglass with wood, the only steel is the frame for the floor.
Some great progress on the project. You should get an English wheel and bead roll the panels for extra strength and to cut down on vibration
My prediction…. It’s gonna cause problems when the body twists, even a little. I’d use a nice rubber composite to fill the gap in between the cab and camper. Hopefully it works but I’m skeptical.
No the cab and the box are one just like a sub it is not going to twist
It's welded to the cabin. Ain't no rubber going to add any flex now.
I would of went with a rubber accordian boot between the cab and box. Whatever you want to call it. The cab and box always have movement between them. Even a very minimal movement will not play nice with their welding.
Definitely going to be problems with the way this thing is built.
There are thick rubber bushings underneath it. They will allow the rear to flex and the camper to stay aligned with the front/cabin
The gvwr is the weight of the truck one driver and a full tank of fuel. The Dodge the broke in half had a ton of weight behind the axle where it wasn't designed. Your frames won't break because of the weight being spread over the entire chassis. The issue I see is once you build it and get three guys in it with all your gear and food and adding the tongue weight of a trailer your pushing your limits. But I'll wait to see what happens lol
GVWR is the max weight the entire vehicle and everything in it can weigh.
@@OnyxCobra yep I do believe they base the capacity on 1 person though. So the payload would be calculated at the weight of the truck with 1 person and a tank of fuel. If you add 1000 pounds of people and stuff that reduces you max payload by 1000 pounds. Some people just figure if payload is 6000 pounds they fill the cab with everything then add 6000 pounds in the box which is overloaded if that makes sense
@@kevind5508 I like this BifB community.
Very helpful and constructive 😎
Door on the left side is an interesting choice. Most camper trailers have the door on the right. Seems correct to be on the right when it comes to parking curbside. Not that you will be street parking it.
you can get in and out via the cab, so its not really much of a problem, if they do park kerb side, just go out of the rear passenger door.
I work in the RV industry in Elkhart Indiana. The doors can be on either side but the majority are on the curbside. I was actually a “door guy” on a few lines and had to pay attention to the door placement so I knew which door to install.
It’s going to have two doors. One on each side.
It's going to have three doors. One on each side and the back.
@@Smokkedandslammed back will be storage locker all the way across under the window
Chris, this looks great and probably one of the most interesting builds of yours that I cant want to see the finished product. One observation that I have; I have a Toyota FJ with a camper tent on top, there is a lot of drag and noise over 55mph. The front on your camper is way bigger than mine so I believe it will be very noisy to drive and you will get a lot of drag. Hope you have considered the aero dynamics during the design phase. Wishing you best of luck with this awesome project.
I think it would’ve been a great idea to move the clearance lights that are on top of the cap to on top of the camper. Would’ve been a nice touch
It would say that would be the minimum for legality and just common sense.
Great work so far! One idea on how to get a TON of useful parts is to buy a used motor home that was maybe in a small accident? You could use the fiberglass walls, windows, doors, insulation, appliances, pumps, etc, etc.
The cab to bed joint should have a gasket instead of being one solid structure across that span. Would be interesting to hear your take on why you decided to weld it solid without a joint for flex. Speed bumps, dirt roads, driveways.
Theyre isolating the camper like the cab with rubber bushings. The cab and camper will be one giant piece. The frame will be able to flex beneath it
@William Bailey true but a truck will flex a lot between the cab and box. This is the first I think most people have seen were someone has tried to weld the camper box to a cab on a truck like this.
@@williambailey309 but I like seeing them trying things nobody else has.
@@williambailey309 Uhhh I have a camper with a cabover. Bolted to the rear frame, it moves easily 1.5" above the cab
@@williambailey309 The rubber bushing won't make enough of a difference, the box is going to rip away from the cab at the first speed bump, those frames twist and move way more than they're accounting for.
Guys, if it's not perfect and it breaks that's more cool building to try and remedy it. I dont understand all the questioning of this build
Man door for the living quarters should be on the passenger side so if anyone is getting out, they’re not exiting on the traffic side.
considering it is pass through to cab either of the rear doors can be used for egress, shouldn't matter too much.
Build what u want,don't worry about ppl concerns on weight..ya can fishplate like 4ft sections on frame under can bxk under bed,and the diesel will pull it,and weight and frame won't ever be an issue.keepbbuildingbme and my son's love you guys!!!
I don't know if this has been addressed previously, but my biggest concern would be when Chris calculates weights if he is accounting for dry or wet weight. Dry being everything that is being added on to the truck and wet being all the gear, fluids, and people added for an actual trip. Because if he is close at the end of the build the wet weight could send him over.
Not only that, I hope it isn't going to compromise driveability, because this thing is going to be incredibly top-heavy..
He isn't calculating the unit weight at all. He only mentioned the weight of a couple of the many components of the build. If they knew the weight of the design, or even a complete list of materials, they could have provided it... so I'm sure that they don't.
Also, again. love how you started out doing work yourself, and now you've got people to do work for you, you're building an empire.
just so you know, GVWR actually stands for Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. and that is more or less the max weight the vehicle is engineered for, which accounts for vehicle weight plus fluids plus occupants and/ or cargo.
Very cool build as always, I heard you mention the door and it looks like you have it on the driver's side. You might want to consider it on the passenger side so that if you park on a busy road it does not open into traffic. I am sure you have noticed that all travel trailers and campers have passenger-side doors for that reason. Good luck with the rest of the build.
Little upset that you showed a Revel as your Class B RV example instead of a Storyteller Overland Beast Mode but it's fine 😅. I'm a little biased though since I'm part of the awesome team that builds the STO Modes! Anyway enjoying the content and when you get into insulating and sealing, look into Havelock wool and Dicor!
If going for a window style a/c unit for this build, you may want to mount it higher as hot air rises and cold air sinks.
They can run a duct!
Hi Chris, maybe try to get some Full panels bead rolled. They wouldn't require as much reinforcing and could help keep the weight down
I could watch this for hours. I love that there’s lot of actual building video and not just a bunch of commentary.
You could add a center support/roll bar from the frame through the b pillars, it would not only add safety in the event of a roll over, but would help with the structural rigidity of the build.
There's a place in Portland called Affordable RVing that would have lots of stuff for this build
Love the build so far! One thing going for you on the folding truck situation is you tied into the cab. Also it's gross vehicle weight rating, as opposed to government weight rating. Rock on!
Do you mean the gross vehicle weight rating that is set by the government? 😉
My main concern is that many states require all original safety equipment (ie. lights and etc.) to function in order to pass inspection. So how do you intend to replace the cab lights in the event they burn out.
I was thinking the same thing. I hope they put new led bulbs in before the roof platform was welded on.
I haven’t seen enough of these comments!
not an out of service item, might get a ticket, but they wont shut you down. but I bet Chris is willing to cross that bridge if and when it happens....
@@andrewward4246 Agreed during the year just a ticket but at inspection time to renew the plates ALL safety items must function, hell I have failed initial inspection because my wipers were worn.
There is no safety vehicle inspections in Oregon only Emissions
Can't wait for the interior. I know you guys will spare no detail.
Hahaha
Thank you for taking the time to address people's concerns. I understand where you are coming from as I have been there many times myself. That said, consider adding additional structure by tying the front and rear suspension perches together. Not a guarantee, but will add a lot of strength through the weakest part of the frame, which is also what we did in the mid 90s to keep our 10 second street legal fox bodies in one piece.
You got my attention! What BoonDocker hasn't wanted to do(make) this? This is just awesome for the Do it yourselfer. Some built in hydraulic stabilizers with adjustable drop down feet would be awesome on all four corners. Even if they were electric driven like concealed camper jacks would do the trick. Make it accessible for maintenance and to replace if needed. Where are you getting the steel and sheets?...where can you find it here in Portland? It will be a fun journey to see all of you systems come together.....back to work!
Add Pull Out Stairs and also storage in front and behind the rear wheels on both sides :)
Being an rv tech the overall frame structure looks sound! The only issue I see is the overhead bunk, that area normally have an 1 1/2" x 4 1/2 - 5" structural beam that goes along the roof line to help support the bunk structure so it doesn't flex as bad at the b pillar point
Wide body 2021 look on the front end with a hood scoop (chef's kiss)
That RAM in the picture shown is the NEW FRAME! You have a older generation still a dodge im confident in your build!
FOR REAL i can't wait for the next episodes!!!
Well with weight at most you might need to add some more bracing under the cab and add another leaf spring to the pack but otherwise not that much of a worry
I could care less about trucks and camper vans. I watch because I love to see Chris's engineering and design mind work, and Oscar's amazing fabrication skills. Great channel!
Then care less. Unless you meant you couldn’t care less…
I honestly think the most you’ll have to do for the weight is maybe add bags
-a mechanic that works on fleet vehicles
It has over 9,000 pounds rear GAWR - if they get close to that with the weight so far rearward it will eventually snap the frame. Their problem is not suspension... and the truck came with air bags.
Keep doing it your way! Yours will be the best and others will want to replicate what you're doing.
Who is the forth person? Did you ever introduced him? Maybe you guys should strengthen the chassis a bit, just to be sure. Maybe the front sleeping area, front wall should be more pointy for better airflow.
Awesome job! Hope you guys go all out with this truck! Front end conversion, nice wheels, maybe a liftkit/stronger suspension.
I'm so excited to see you get that new shop. You guys deserve it so much 💓
To save on the outer skin, find a transport truck salvage yard try and buy the outside skin off a trailer. It will have to be riveted to the frame work, its aluminum you will save on weight, also get some roof skin and panel bond it down.
I love how you were reviewing the comments, but also like; no, these guys are in the ideal world. This is not a ‘bespoke’ camper build as such. This is a Bisforbuild camper. This will work! I can’t wait to see the end product!! You guys are the best middle finger to ‘convention’ ever! F*** the haters 😎
Would be nice seeing you guys going on a adventure together in this thing.
One of the things on my big lance is that it has are condensation scuppers about 6" in from the bottom corners... and yes, they do drip at times.
I have a recommendation. You should install lift points and reinforce the frame at those points on the top of the camper. Not only will it help if you need to lift the camper off in the future but you can use it to tie down let’s say a canoe.
I love how you made it a unibody, however, if you made it removable, you would have more access to more weldable areas. For instance, under the sleeping area where it ties into the frame of the rear camper. you are now giving me new ideas of how to do this. love your show, it is inspirational
Steel is a great way to go! Easy and will last for years if properly coated!
I’ve seen so many with wood and within a few years problems!
Have you considered the need for drip holes here and there so water can get out if it gets in somehow - metal walled RVs can sweat due to condensation - my Airstream does anyways
Should cut some inside access ports for those cab marker lights, when those burn out id imagine it would be hell to change/replace
I love this build! Basically the team is just sending it. Let the man cook! I’m genuinely just as stoked for the prep as I am the finishing touches.
Consider making the door on the right side ( passenger side) for safety on the highway if you pull over and need to get in and out of the camper section.
Cant wait for the bigger space. Get those beautiful cars from all those flying sparks
those roof lights are gonna be fun to change
I would change the good year wranglers out for some nitto grapplers. The wranglers where really weird and are made more for a small suv. The nittos are a much harder rubbber and made for hauling
Could always pilfer some fiberglass panels from an old camper or RV. It's not like there aren't plenty of materials here in Portland anyway. A feller could maybe do some bigger panels with reclaimed panels and then steel panels for where zombies might try to get in.
Now that I think about it... with your team's fiberglass skills, I'm surprised that a steel skeleton with fiberglass skin wasn't a more viable option... but it's your baby and as long as you're happy... SEND IT!!
The bent frame guy was also on a short bed truck I think vs your long bed/extended bed truck. That's a big difference!
No, the widely featured broken Ram and this truck are both Ram 3500 DRW with 8-foot boxes. This one is a lot older - they are different by generations.
Box the frame if you are worried plus you plan on using air should help distribute the load!
I know you said you got a newer front end for this build. But Baja fenders would look dope as hell on this build!
1 inch won't be enough/ the cab will move 3 inches plus twist / limb sliders bolted the the roo bar helps stabilise the over cab bunk / also helps the roo bar with impact
Excellent stuff, totally amazed at how you got so many cars in back of shop that tight. Keepem komen
You NEED to get a Titan Fuel Tank for this thing. Especially with the added fuel consumption due to the worse aerodynamics of the truck. That Titan fuel tank will make it so you have roughly 30%-50% more fuel than the stock tank
How do you plan to service the cab lights if they need to be replaced?
Good question.
They may have taken the bulbs out already since they aren't going to serve a purpose any longer.
Hopefully the seals don't leak either.
Put new ones on the front.
@@Whatwherewhy586 wide vehicle ID and clearance lights are still required. Do you think that builders like this would really leave dead lights in place? That wouldn't look very flashy.
Twice you've addressed comments re steel vs other material. I get it. Some folks just don't and will never be able to understand. Drive on with your vision. Love it.
Making this out of steel plate is going to be craaaazy heavy. Good luck! I can t wait to see it.
Isn't the flex from the cab going to break off the welds to the camper?
I would suggest putting the door on the passenger side. Incase your stopped or anything on the road itll almost always be facing off the road for easier access.
Looking really good! We appreciate your explanation on the weight. All I was thinking was you keep adding more and more weight. Once you explain, it really seems like it could be a great option for light off roading.
I can honestly tell you I’m quite intrigued and interested by this build.
At least more than I would have believed from the beginning.
Great job there, cheers!
Have you thought about departure angles? The back of the truck is flat so it might be a little issue offroading.
If you look in to the house construction buissnes there is insolated sandwich sheets for like 6$ / sq feet. Then you dont have to use all them steel tubes. They are doubble sided and painted allready. I build a caravan with 3" sandwichs panels without any framing at all, beside the floor. Worked perfekt. $1000 worth of panels for a 2,3 meter by 4,5 meter trailer.
SIPs: structural insulated panels
It's been a while since I visited your channel and I forgot the PTSD I developed from binging your channel for 2 weeks. I'm pretty sure in that time i listened to that same royalty free generic rock beat numbers 2 through 4 at least 700 times. And I'm appalled to see that you're still fucking using it. Jesus man you got me doing the thousand yard stare.
Would you consider skinning it in fiberglass over fleece in lieu of steel? Minimize heat transfer and potentially weight as well.
There's a reason that campers and RVs are built of aluminum, wood, and fiberglass. Going to be a rusty mess in a few years if you don't powder coat the entire thing which isn't possible with the way you have built it. Did you see the newer dodge dually that bent in half?
What if it is rhino lined?
Should get Will Prowse to help with the solar/battery setup when you get there.
I would say this is an unusual build, but being "here" long enough I think seen a bit of everything 😆 Cool stuff!
If the weight is distributed before the rear axle and you don't go crazy with 10 gauge steel sheets for walls the weight should not be a problem and the frame is not going to crack. And you can always weld frame support if that's a concern
I feel like refrigeration panels would have been better to build the walls, roof & floor. Insulation + covering in one.
Those are normally called "SIP" - structural insulated panels. Yes, that's how the better overland campers are built.
That truck with the slide in camper you posted a picture of; the frame cracked at a weld. Has only happened once or twice ive seen online and all were the new trucks.
Great stuff. Massively over engineered but looks solid!
Keep going on this project. It is fantastic.
Steel is good. But you probably don't need quite so much of it. Nice job you're doing with it though and I'm loving the build!
Have you considered ACM sheets for the siding? It’s sturdy, cheap and readily available in the sign world.
Please get Oscar a bead roller, all those flat pieces of steel can be SO much stronger with a bit of a roll in them, adding rigidity without added weight.
Looking good! I've built my own RV myself, and I can tell y'all now you really want that RV entry door on the ditch (passenger) side as opposed to the drivers side.
Imagine a break down on the interstate and you're having to exit the RV portion of the rig right out into oncoming traffic!
Even parked on the street opening out to the pavement is dangerous.
Put the door on the passenger side, my friends, it's safer that way.
B is for overBuilt LOL! That is going to be one SOLID monster! Can't wait to see it crush the haters!
Chris I bet FRP panels are cheaper than steel for the inner and outer skin. It would be easy to fiberglass all the seams together then jell coat it, and it would be lighter.
I dont watch BifB to see them build a Forest River Camper or stock mustangs...... Keep doing what your doing Chris!
Have you thought about or did I miss you guys talking about doing maybe a kind of front exo cage? You could tie in some of the front of the camper to a beefy bumper, and sidesteps directly tied to the frame for more torsional stiffness. Angled bar from the top of the windshield straight to the top of the bumper could act double duty as a branch guard for the windshield.
Thank you for being my inspiration!
But you can use you lay down steel mesh around the steel frame and then you can fiberglass body that covers the steel mesh which will give you some residency plus the steel aspect
As this build gets heavier with each stage, anyone else curious how its going to get out of the current shop with that massive drop at the door??
You should wrap the out side with aluminum like they put on in closed car trailers
15:06 this view is gonna be sick when it's done.
I really enjoy these videos on how not to build a camper. I look forward to seeing the interior comes together.
haha
Love this series 👍
Idk if you took my advice on supporting some of the cab over on truck cab but hopefully that's section you did in the rear is enough. I think it will be hopefully.
You guys are really doing a nice job with this. I was wondering why you are putting the camper door on the driver side? All RV/campers in the USA have doors on the passenger side and utilities on the drivers side. Just a curious question. This thing is super solid and I love it!