Fantastic help that was. I bought a sensored motor that was in bad shape, bad enough that i got a full refund & got to keep the motor. The rotor looked like it was stored in maximum humidity somewhere near the equator in thr tropics for a decade unprotected! Not being able to have something sitting around that may be able to be fixed I started to work on it, I found I had a Rotor from the "motor-death-box of spare parts" that was spot on the same. Next I found the sensor test showed the sensors numbers were EXTREMELY far apart. Remembering your videos i did a quick Google search KNOWING you would have a video to help. And help you did! Now the sensors are great and the motor actually runs very well! Its a 13.5t sensored and its now powering a 1/10 rally car and giving anyone that drives it a big smile on their face. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HARD WORK, taking time to make these videos and sharing them with us all !
Thank you very much for this thorough explanation. I have always wondered what tuning shops mean by saying they adjust the sensor boards on their motors.
Trinity needs to improve quality control on their sensor boards. None of my Trinity motors passes the timing test on the motor checker. Both of my Trinity motors are off by 10 degrees.
Hi Nick. My frustration with Trinity led me to send them an email regarding their motors' timing issues. The reason Trinity motor timing issues are so bad is because they don't actually test them. Can you believe it? This came from a technician for Trinity in his response to my email. This oversight even applies to the more expensive "certified" motors. He said the numbers on the end bell were more of a "benchmark" for timing rather than actual timing. I was told to send the motor in and they would adjust the sensors, for a fee of course. I declined the offer. I may be done with Trinity until they resolve this issue. Figured I'd let you and your subscribers know what they're getting into before purchasing these pricey motors.
You need to make a jig. A round pin to go inside the bearing with a slotted(accurate 120 degrees) disk attached to the end, or a marked translucent disk
What temp on the soldering iron? You say heat one side of the sensor. Do you touch both leads coming out of the sensor at once to heat? Do you apply slight pressure with tweezers (or whatever tool) as you heat and nudge it in the direction you want it to go?
Hi Brad. I agree it is a fiddlly process. The iron will heat the sensor through to all three legs. If you can manage to touch 2 legs it will move quicker. Then it needs a steady hand to move it, before it cools and sticks again. Good luck. Nick
I just subbed your channel, as it is a wealth of information!! I'm just getting back into Hobby, after leaving in disappointment in 1998.... So, Brushless motors are brand new to me. I won't ask you to be overly specific, but I've some questions.... Firstly, I'm NOT a competition racer. Mostly off-road, Trailing, also have a couple of Buggies. Is there a big difference between sensored and sensorless?? Is 2-pole or 4-pole better for low end torque? If I can sort those two, then I can start battling with the fact that almost no two manufacturers have the SAME method of measuring output!!! 😠😠😲 (17.5T, 21.5T... 2100kv, 3650kv, 5700kv.... 540 size or 3650 size!) What a MESS! Cheers ~ Carmine
Greetings, Nick. Seems you have good understanding about brushless motors. I have a problem and maybe your advice will help me to solve it :) I run 4274 2250kv brushless sensored motor in pair with 150A ESC. motor has 130 amps max draw rating, ESC has around 1000A burst. In sensorless mode this combo is a beast, no cut offs, just rips my traxxas summit apart. in sensored mode strange thing happen, when pushing full throttle motor screeches and ESC goes in LVP, even with motor pulled out and spinning without load. I tried everything, playing with timings, Low, medium, high, very high, played with initial acceleration, nothing helps. tried different battery packs, even 150C 8000mah 4s Graphene. ESC keeps going in low voltage protection because of strange amperage spikes when applying full throttle, it goes like 250a for a 1/10 of a sec and ESC shuts off. In non sensored mode, such spikes do not persist. I even added 10000uF capacitors with 0.003 internal resistance to withstand these spikes, but without result. What is your verdict? Is it a not powerfull enough ESC or it's a damaged motor, which cannot provide exact sensor information and ESC shorts itself when trying to follow rotor angle? Thanks in advance!
Hello, I bought a longboard, to which the former owner cut the sensor wires between the motor and the controller, I state that the sensor connections to the motor are directly in the engine, does not have the plug, the controller has the plug, and I'm thinking of plugging in but how do I identify wires? How do I send you a picture? Thank you
Nick is it possible to use a sensor board from another brand if the physical mounting dimensions are the same but the components are different,also can you use hall effects sensors from say hobbywing on an R1 wurks.
Hi The hall sensors are generally the same. The whole sensor board may have the sensors at a different position when fitted. But if the alignment is the same it should be ok.
Thanks for your reply,i'm actually having issues with low rpm cogging on my R1 13.5 ultra premium.It does not matter where i set the timing and upon inspection i found the sensor board poorly made and the hall sensor board is slightly twisted and out of alignment to the sensor plug board.I could just replace it bit i'm 5 hrs from the closest town lol.
Hi Mike I did a video on setting a motor for 1S racing. I advise setting it on a 2S lipo, as it is much easier, and then using on the 1S. It gives the same optimum timing for normal blinky (zero timing racing).
Ok nick. I think I'm going to get one of those testers and give it a try. Have you ever used the Trinity motorlizer? If so, what did you think of it besides over priced. If I had to guess it has the same circuity that's in the motor tester that you use.
Hi Nate Yes, I think they need to tighten up their quality control on sensor boards. I assume they never expected anyone to check the sensor boards. Some manufactures have excellent close matched sensor boards. Looking at them the good ones are machine assembled, and the poor ones definately look like they are hand soldered by humans. All the best nick
Fantastic help that was. I bought a sensored motor that was in bad shape, bad enough that i got a full refund & got to keep the motor. The rotor looked like it was stored in maximum humidity somewhere near the equator in thr tropics for a decade unprotected!
Not being able to have something sitting around that may be able to be fixed I started to work on it, I found I had a Rotor from the "motor-death-box of spare parts" that was spot on the same. Next I found the sensor test showed the sensors numbers were EXTREMELY far apart. Remembering your videos i did a quick Google search KNOWING you would have a video to help. And help you did! Now the sensors are great and the motor actually runs very well!
Its a 13.5t sensored and its now powering a 1/10 rally car and giving anyone that drives it a big smile on their face.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HARD WORK, taking time to make these videos and sharing them with us all !
Thank you very much for this thorough explanation. I have always wondered what tuning shops mean by saying they adjust the sensor boards on their motors.
You're tutorials are great and a big help thank you.
Great info Nick. Thanks 👍🏼
Trinity needs to improve quality control on their sensor boards. None of my Trinity motors passes the timing test on the motor checker. Both of my Trinity motors are off by 10 degrees.
I agree.
Trinity are the worst, and a 10 degree spread is not uncommon.
Hi Nick. My frustration with Trinity led me to send them an email regarding their motors' timing issues. The reason Trinity motor timing issues are so bad is because they don't actually test them. Can you believe it? This came from a technician for Trinity in his response to my email. This oversight even applies to the more expensive "certified" motors. He said the numbers on the end bell were more of a "benchmark" for timing rather than actual timing. I was told to send the motor in and they would adjust the sensors, for a fee of course. I declined the offer. I may be done with Trinity until they resolve this issue. Figured I'd let you and your subscribers know what they're getting into before purchasing these pricey motors.
You need to make a jig. A round pin to go inside the bearing with a slotted(accurate 120 degrees) disk attached to the end, or a marked translucent disk
Thanks for the great tutorial vid! Would it be possible to get the link or where to get the fine tip for the soldering iron?
What temp on the soldering iron?
You say heat one side of the sensor. Do you touch both leads coming out of the sensor at once to heat?
Do you apply slight pressure with tweezers (or whatever tool) as you heat and nudge it in the direction you want it to go?
Hi Brad. I agree it is a fiddlly process. The iron will heat the sensor through to all three legs. If you can manage to touch 2 legs it will move quicker. Then it needs a steady hand to move it, before it cools and sticks again. Good luck. Nick
I just subbed your channel, as it is a wealth of information!!
I'm just getting back into Hobby, after leaving in disappointment in 1998....
So, Brushless motors are brand new to me. I won't ask you to be overly specific, but I've some questions....
Firstly, I'm NOT a competition racer. Mostly off-road, Trailing, also have a couple of Buggies.
Is there a big difference between sensored and sensorless??
Is 2-pole or 4-pole better for low end torque?
If I can sort those two, then I can start battling with the fact that almost no two manufacturers have the SAME method of measuring output!!! 😠😠😲 (17.5T, 21.5T... 2100kv, 3650kv, 5700kv.... 540 size or 3650 size!) What a MESS!
Cheers ~ Carmine
Greetings, Nick. Seems you have good understanding about brushless motors. I have a problem and maybe your advice will help me to solve it :) I run 4274 2250kv brushless sensored motor in pair with 150A ESC. motor has 130 amps max draw rating, ESC has around 1000A burst. In sensorless mode this combo is a beast, no cut offs, just rips my traxxas summit apart. in sensored mode strange thing happen, when pushing full throttle motor screeches and ESC goes in LVP, even with motor pulled out and spinning without load. I tried everything, playing with timings, Low, medium, high, very high, played with initial acceleration, nothing helps. tried different battery packs, even 150C 8000mah 4s Graphene. ESC keeps going in low voltage protection because of strange amperage spikes when applying full throttle, it goes like 250a for a 1/10 of a sec and ESC shuts off. In non sensored mode, such spikes do not persist. I even added 10000uF capacitors with 0.003 internal resistance to withstand these spikes, but without result. What is your verdict? Is it a not powerfull enough ESC or it's a damaged motor, which cannot provide exact sensor information and ESC shorts itself when trying to follow rotor angle?
Thanks in advance!
Hello, I bought a longboard, to which the former owner cut the sensor wires between the motor and the controller, I state that the sensor connections to the motor are directly in the engine, does not have the plug, the controller has the plug, and I'm thinking of plugging in but how do I identify wires? How do I send you a picture? Thank you
Send to:
nick@demonproducts.co.uk
Nick Adams, Okay, let me send you on weekend, thanks
Nick is it possible to use a sensor board from another brand if the physical mounting dimensions are the same but the components are different,also can you use hall effects sensors from say hobbywing on an R1 wurks.
Hi
The hall sensors are generally the same.
The whole sensor board may have the sensors at a different position when fitted.
But if the alignment is the same it should be ok.
Thanks for your reply,i'm actually having issues with low rpm cogging on my R1 13.5 ultra premium.It does not matter where i set the timing and upon inspection i found the sensor board poorly made and the hall sensor board is slightly twisted and out of alignment to the sensor plug board.I could just replace it bit i'm 5 hrs from the closest town lol.
what motor analyzer brand and model are you using?
The analyzer is sold by Sky-RC and G-Force, also HobbyKing has one that looks the same.
I use the GForce Motor Analyzer.
Phil Fernandez - They're about $75-80US on EvilBay - but no US sellers, as far as I can see. RC Mart in China is actually reputable though...
hi nick, how do you tell which hall sensor is A,B,or C?
Hi Troy
See my other video on ABC identification.
nick, seeing your testing with a 2s battery. how does that translate to 1s racing?
Hi Mike
I did a video on setting a motor for 1S racing.
I advise setting it on a 2S lipo, as it is much easier, and then using on the 1S.
It gives the same optimum timing for normal blinky (zero timing racing).
Ok nick. I think I'm going to get one of those testers and give it a try. Have you ever used the Trinity motorlizer? If so, what did you think of it besides over priced. If I had to guess it has the same circuity that's in the motor tester that you use.
The Motolyser has KV and sensor timing, so should be as effective.
However tyhe gForce is a lot cheaper.
lefthander-rc.com sell it in the USA.
I also find it surprising that a "Certified" D4 is that out of wack
Hi Nate
Yes, I think they need to tighten up their quality control on sensor boards.
I assume they never expected anyone to check the sensor boards.
Some manufactures have excellent close matched sensor boards.
Looking at them the good ones are machine assembled, and the poor ones definately look like they are hand soldered by humans.
All the best
nick