what a great series of videos 7 and 8 are essential thank you for keeping these up if i may add in reference to train models the chipping effects seem to be strong in railcars that are painted black gondolas tank cars open hoppers and locomotives the gondolas and open top hoppers are beat up to the point very little paint is evident most people just assume they are factory painted black because most are but after studying photos, a entirely different approach to weathering these workhorses is revealed,you have effectively explained the process to the goal i am after
Great to hear Timothy, and I will continue to pursue rail projects in the future. I some exciting partnerships coming up in 2024. Click the Playlist tab for the additional videos specific to the genre. Cheers!
Hi Mike from New Zealand. I started to watch this while in hospital last week after another cancer op. I'm home now looking at it without the effect of too many drugs. Thoroughly enjoyable stream. Thank you for your presentation.
HI Mike...great stream yesterday...I was a little apprehensive on a livestream but you made it work. I've been to a few of your live demos before (at Hornet) years ago and I have most of your books so I was sceptical that the stream would be a RSP rehash - happily it wasn't - still never gets old watching you work. Looking forward to watching what's coming from you in the future - all the best.
Started watching the replay and hearing you say you'll keep it down to 2 hours. Then saw the progress bar saying a whole different story :-). Anyway, loving the streams. Thanks for the hands-on demo's!
I got a text at the 3hr mark if I was coming to watch the show I mentioned lol Bit off a bit too much of showing various ideas and will streamline the agenda moving forward. I'll also re-visit all of the various chipping techniques shown many many times again as we go along. ;)
I know you don't like the V word, but Doog has a interesting write up on his website regarding Multilayer chipping and I want to try it. His process is Prime > Metal color > Hairspray > color (he used yellow zinc I think) > Work Chips in > Seal with flat coat (Flat varnish) > Hairspray > Back to black > color (He used a shade of blue for this one) > Chip again. It's A LOT of work from the way it works, but it looked super nice.
I used to be a Vallejo guy, but I was won over to MRP (Mr.Paint) by the SMCG guys. I've (very) recently bought some Mission Models primers after seeing you use them, because I was running low on Ammo One-shot primer and wanted to give MMP a go. Could I do the following, or do aou reckon it's a recipe for disaster mixing up paint brands? Mission Models Red Oxide primer --> hairspray/chipping fluid --> MR.Paint grey? (I guess I could easily buy some MMP grey, but I tend to be cheap sometimes and want to use what I already have)
I always test thing first, if you have a chemical question of this nature it's always best to see what happens first hand. Two things - if this is me and my models, I'm running everything as one chemical type, ie. lacquer paint over a lacquer primer. Same with non-solvent paints+primers. I see no need to run any risk of this type. 2nd, the airbrush -- what I talk about in cleaning and cross-pollination of chemicals all thru one airbrush and the trouble it causes, at least ensure you prime MMP with one AB, and then paint your top coats (in this case MRP) with another airbrush. The only time I've ever really cross-chemical type a paint job is say hand painted stowage or the rubber tires on the road wheel tires with Lifecolor/Vallejo over a Tamiya base paint job. Otherwise, stop being cheap and pre-plan smarter (not being an a-hole). I see no real advantage to whatever it is you're trying to achieve (it serves little purpose). If you're spraying MRP, just buy some Mr Surfacer primer or whatever similar lacquer primer. (Caveat: if things are getting hard to buy because of Covid, I get it... but you take my meaning). I've never been a fan of mixing chemical types over one project. I'll have a Vallejo model, Lifecolor, Tamiya, MRP, MMP, etc as singular paint system for each project. It streamlines and simplifies all painting tasks and never causes any conflicts. That said, I advise spray carefully -- dust the first layer down and let dry, then slowly build up the paint - go too wet too fast too early and you’ll get orange peel texture as it reacts.
Mike with the mmp paint if I don't clear coat it after I paint and go into weathering on the mmp paint with any moisture it starts coming right off. Kinda like it feels totally dry to the touch though. Is their paint all washable? It's strange cause if I use any other paint it doesn't do that I don't have to clear coat it . But the mmp primer is solid. And I used the mmp evey way they suggest. Is that how the mmp paint supposed to work?
I'm not sure what you're doing, but you're seeing my weathering on top of it live. I've never had that problem with any paint, and while yes, there is a window of time you can work with water to create special effects + MMP, I don't weather with water per se. and for chipping pay close attention to the parts I show with loading and unloading the chipping brush. I discuss a few times over the previous episodes with MMP has an element or erasability because it is organic derived water-based paint, and just go back to re-watch the painting and then chipping scenes. It's actually something that can be used to amazing advantage. It's hard to diagnose what you're doing without going deep in the comments. I've never seen nor had the problem described tbh. You can also hear me quite clearly state to back off the model (when problems happen) regarding water on the brush for chipping -- specifically how little is required and how quickly you can have issues. Most problems are salvageable if you stay calm and work a bit slower and in smaller sections.
@@rs.p Awesome. I guess I have been living under a rock and didnt realize there was such a thing. Opens my mind to many new possibilities. Thanks for the reply and the streams are a great watch and learn.
@@kevinmgd84 Lol, you're not, I've just started to explore this possibility. The Clear Primer has been available from them since the start and after doing a lot of Gundam kits, it sort of clicked because it's injected in the correct colors to begin with. Then the train guys have all the pre-painted stuff with full markings and I was thinking of another way past a Dullcote to seal it prior to weathering them (since off the lacquer wagon), and THEN lol another fella (Dalton) I tagged in the stream description was weathering on raw Bandai kit and I was like light bulbs clicked off and so forth... I like the idea of the primer just a normal kit, and then clear flat coat (which is paint) on top (same as a painted base coat) to then weather on top jus like my normal painting and weathering steps. If that all makes sense ;)
Hi Brett, if you're using HS, it goes into he painting process naturally from the get go. By default, that sort of answers it, but it's not a hard and fast rule, which depending on the subject and type of layered wear and tear you are going with and where the decals will be placed can also be a factor.
So,... took a few days to watch 7, a bit of a train wreck (but not in a bad way). If you can work through all that and, still keep us watching must be doing something right 😉
what a great series of videos 7 and 8 are essential thank you for keeping these up if i may add in reference to train models the chipping effects seem to be strong in railcars that are painted black gondolas tank cars open hoppers and locomotives the gondolas and open top hoppers are beat up to the point very little paint is evident most people just assume they are factory painted black because most are but after studying photos, a entirely different approach to weathering these workhorses is revealed,you have effectively explained the process to the goal i am after
Great to hear Timothy, and I will continue to pursue rail projects in the future. I some exciting partnerships coming up in 2024. Click the Playlist tab for the additional videos specific to the genre. Cheers!
@@rs.p hey thank you, will do, peace and blessings to you and your family
I always go overboard, on mud, chips, streaks. Thanks for the “unload the brush” mantra. UNLOAD THE BRUSH. Got it boss
I’ll continue to put more emphasis showing the loading and unloading of the brushes moving forward 👍
Hi Mike from New Zealand. I started to watch this while in hospital last week after another cancer op. I'm home now looking at it without the effect of too many drugs. Thoroughly enjoyable stream. Thank you for your presentation.
Thank you Russell and get well soon mate, many more streams to create and watch! Cheers
HI Mike...great stream yesterday...I was a little apprehensive on a livestream but you made it work. I've been to a few of your live demos before (at Hornet) years ago and I have most of your books so I was sceptical that the stream would be a RSP rehash - happily it wasn't - still never gets old watching you work. Looking forward to watching what's coming from you in the future - all the best.
Thank you Tim, I appreciate that and those were the days back at HH! Good times 🙌👍
Great show Mike.wish i could have been live with you all.next time.
Excellent streams. Very relaxing to watch when I am modeling :)
Thank you!
Started watching the replay and hearing you say you'll keep it down to 2 hours.
Then saw the progress bar saying a whole different story :-).
Anyway, loving the streams. Thanks for the hands-on demo's!
I got a text at the 3hr mark if I was coming to watch the show I mentioned lol
Bit off a bit too much of showing various ideas and will streamline the agenda moving forward. I'll also re-visit all of the various chipping techniques shown many many times again as we go along. ;)
I know you don't like the V word, but Doog has a interesting write up on his website regarding Multilayer chipping and I want to try it. His process is Prime > Metal color > Hairspray > color (he used yellow zinc I think) > Work Chips in > Seal with flat coat (Flat varnish) > Hairspray > Back to black > color (He used a shade of blue for this one) > Chip again. It's A LOT of work from the way it works, but it looked super nice.
Quality modeling is always a lot of work ;)
Hey man!!
I used to be a Vallejo guy, but I was won over to MRP (Mr.Paint) by the SMCG guys.
I've (very) recently bought some Mission Models primers after seeing you use them, because I was running low on Ammo One-shot primer and wanted to give MMP a go.
Could I do the following, or do aou reckon it's a recipe for disaster mixing up paint brands?
Mission Models Red Oxide primer --> hairspray/chipping fluid --> MR.Paint grey?
(I guess I could easily buy some MMP grey, but I tend to be cheap sometimes and want to use what I already have)
I always test thing first, if you have a chemical question of this nature it's always best to see what happens first hand.
Two things - if this is me and my models, I'm running everything as one chemical type, ie. lacquer paint over a lacquer primer. Same with non-solvent paints+primers. I see no need to run any risk of this type.
2nd, the airbrush -- what I talk about in cleaning and cross-pollination of chemicals all thru one airbrush and the trouble it causes, at least ensure you prime MMP with one AB, and then paint your top coats (in this case MRP) with another airbrush.
The only time I've ever really cross-chemical type a paint job is say hand painted stowage or the rubber tires on the road wheel tires with Lifecolor/Vallejo over a Tamiya base paint job.
Otherwise, stop being cheap and pre-plan smarter (not being an a-hole). I see no real advantage to whatever it is you're trying to achieve (it serves little purpose). If you're spraying MRP, just buy some Mr Surfacer primer or whatever similar lacquer primer. (Caveat: if things are getting hard to buy because of Covid, I get it... but you take my meaning). I've never been a fan of mixing chemical types over one project.
I'll have a Vallejo model, Lifecolor, Tamiya, MRP, MMP, etc as singular paint system for each project. It streamlines and simplifies all painting tasks and never causes any conflicts.
That said, I advise spray carefully -- dust the first layer down and let dry, then slowly build up the paint - go too wet too fast too early and you’ll get orange peel texture as it reacts.
Mike with the mmp paint if I don't clear coat it after I paint and go into weathering on the mmp paint with any moisture it starts coming right off. Kinda like it feels totally dry to the touch though. Is their paint all washable? It's strange cause if I use any other paint it doesn't do that I don't have to clear coat it . But the mmp primer is solid. And I used the mmp evey way they suggest. Is that how the mmp paint supposed to work?
I'm not sure what you're doing, but you're seeing my weathering on top of it live. I've never had that problem with any paint, and while yes, there is a window of time you can work with water to create special effects + MMP, I don't weather with water per se. and for chipping pay close attention to the parts I show with loading and unloading the chipping brush.
I discuss a few times over the previous episodes with MMP has an element or erasability because it is organic derived water-based paint, and just go back to re-watch the painting and then chipping scenes. It's actually something that can be used to amazing advantage.
It's hard to diagnose what you're doing without going deep in the comments. I've never seen nor had the problem described tbh. You can also hear me quite clearly state to back off the model (when problems happen) regarding water on the brush for chipping -- specifically how little is required and how quickly you can have issues. Most problems are salvageable if you stay calm and work a bit slower and in smaller sections.
I am sure this was mentioned along the lines somewhere but what kind of clear primer is being used?
Hi Kevin, it’s the Mission Models Clear Primer. Really cool for preprinted or use over Bandai colored plastic kits to keep the lower colors as is
@@rs.p Awesome. I guess I have been living under a rock and didnt realize there was such a thing. Opens my mind to many new possibilities. Thanks for the reply and the streams are a great watch and learn.
@@kevinmgd84 Lol, you're not, I've just started to explore this possibility. The Clear Primer has been available from them since the start and after doing a lot of Gundam kits, it sort of clicked because it's injected in the correct colors to begin with.
Then the train guys have all the pre-painted stuff with full markings and I was thinking of another way past a Dullcote to seal it prior to weathering them (since off the lacquer wagon), and THEN lol another fella (Dalton) I tagged in the stream description was weathering on raw Bandai kit and I was like light bulbs clicked off and so forth... I like the idea of the primer just a normal kit, and then clear flat coat (which is paint) on top (same as a painted base coat) to then weather on top jus like my normal painting and weathering steps. If that all makes sense ;)
@@rs.p makes total sense. Thank you!
Hey Mike, I’m a little confused on using the hairspray in conjunction with decals. Hairspray first or decals first?
Hi Brett, if you're using HS, it goes into he painting process naturally from the get go. By default, that sort of answers it, but it's not a hard and fast rule, which depending on the subject and type of layered wear and tear you are going with and where the decals will be placed can also be a factor.
Bom dia 😎😷
So,... took a few days to watch 7, a bit of a train wreck (but not in a bad way). If you can work through all that and, still keep us watching must be doing something right 😉
Boss sent me back to camera school after that one lol
GD