The primer demo was very useful. I never knew it was possible to clean a dried airbrush tip like this. Next model I am going to switch back to oneshot/mission model primer. I always had the feeling it wasn't the fault of the product but a case of not using the correct technique.
It was alot of discussion not to much painting. The wheels and pigments he did on the hetzer the other day was great I learned some awesome stuff !and went right to my panther and applied it . But this stream was just alot of discussion..
@@michaelweiss7880 It's a lot of discussion because it's early days and the questions are many. I'm concentrating on the chat to be more interactive to both discuss the questions directly live and also try to add what I'm going to demo as a visual answer. There will be plenty of times, (and dedicated videos coming), that are and will be more focused on the tasks at hand and providing less direct conversational feedback. Yesterday's stream was a busy one with chat, and for me, I like the balance it adds, the interactive qualities while allowing me to gauge what I should show to help and so on. I honestly enjoy getting to know you all in this manner...half of this is me going with the flow of the chat, which are you guys! ;)
That badger doo hicky is really handy for mixing paints in the bottle. Fits right into the MMP bottles, and I don't know why but I always have to go like 5 drops of thinner to my MMP primer. I think the thinner coming out of the MMP bottles are smaller drops. Seems like it's not proportional to the amount of paint that comes out.
I use a GSI Creos Mr. Linear Compressor L7. Super quiet and teeny. Plenty of pressure for what we do. You can get a constant 22ish psi out of it. I don't use the regulator it comes with though. My setup is different than what they sell. I run mine into a regulator that has 1psi increments. It's way quieter than the other stuff out there. Not quite Silentaire levels of quiet but super close. Also it's an "always on" type of compressor so investing in a footswitch is recommended.
I love Mission Model paints. I bought a dedicated airbrush for them. I do however experience some flaking of the primer when applied on the styrene sheet. I did the whole washing the model to remove the oils before priming.
Lol, yah, I stopped using lacquers after TA4. ~10 years of using them wore me out for all the health issues and extra equipment required for both spraying and disposal. (I mention all this way back on the 2017 Moson seminar video). And remember a lot of the Tamiya + HS was made with water as the main thinner. Once MMP arrived I also stopped using lacquer primers too.
It’s not that I don’t dig them, it was more about timing, I was already well stocked in all my stuff and didn’t want to add further investment. Def use what you like and enjoy!
@@rossomachin I did I bought a bunch and the paint don't adhere and it comes right off with any moisture. But I see how Mike uses them to his advantage with the the slight wear on the hetzer he's doing . And now it comes together . I absolutely love the late war colors and the red oxide primer.
Thank you again for the great chat, and I missed a few questions and comments. Hair Dryer - Always use a hair dryer on low heat, the cheap basic one from a general market, Target, Walmart, Amazon, are perfect. I never use high heat or a heat gun (which looks very similar). Night stream - I will try to add a night stream time for the future to allow for other time zones a chance to participate in chat. I'll announce those with plenty of warning for a different time. It looks like 6pm Pacific, 9pm Eastern, 2am UTC and 10am Tokyo (EDIT - next Weds July 14 will be a night time US stream). Chat question I missed: regarding lacquer based primer "smoothness" vs water-based primer coat relative "smoothness" of the primed surface. All quality smooth surfaces start with good prep work for the sanded plastic taking it to a grit needed for the project (aircraft can go much higher in 2500+ grit levels of plastic prep, armor doesn't really need it, so 600-800 is plenty.) From there it is making the variables at work perform the right way - lacquers are more forgiving, the main pro of a solvent-based system is ease of use and consistent results. Water-based systems require more adjustments or training/testing to perfect (especially if you are on a learning curve from solvents). In this way you can fine tune the final primer layer to the level of "smoothness" needed per the subject. Thinning ratio, air pressure, and distance/speed of the passes are the main ones to work with and adjust. That said, if the primer is rougher than expected, sanding it and applying a fresh wetter thin top layer of primer usually fixes it. Things to watch out for with airbrushing primer is distance from the surface and primer hitting too dry (airbrush too far away) and causing a rough texture. Get closer to the model, or adjust thinner ratio (and/or psi), to apply in light wet coats that lay down with a gloss sheen -- but not runny or dripping wet. I'll continue to discuss with each future priming step shown, thanks! (great question John)
The empire thanks you!
The primer demo was very useful. I never knew it was possible to clean a dried airbrush tip like this. Next model I am going to switch back to oneshot/mission model primer. I always had the feeling it wasn't the fault of the product but a case of not using the correct technique.
Didnt get to catch the live stream but I'm looking forward to the video!
It was alot of discussion not to much painting. The wheels and pigments he did on the hetzer the other day was great I learned some awesome stuff !and went right to my panther and applied it . But this stream was just alot of discussion..
@@michaelweiss7880 It's a lot of discussion because it's early days and the questions are many. I'm concentrating on the chat to be more interactive to both discuss the questions directly live and also try to add what I'm going to demo as a visual answer.
There will be plenty of times, (and dedicated videos coming), that are and will be more focused on the tasks at hand and providing less direct conversational feedback. Yesterday's stream was a busy one with chat, and for me, I like the balance it adds, the interactive qualities while allowing me to gauge what I should show to help and so on.
I honestly enjoy getting to know you all in this manner...half of this is me going with the flow of the chat, which are you guys! ;)
It's awesome and it's great we are gonna get to learn my favorite style from the master.already learning awesome stuff!
Thanks for doing these brother! as I love your style I already learned so much from the hetzer videos! You rock brudda!
That badger doo hicky is really handy for mixing paints in the bottle. Fits right into the MMP bottles, and I don't know why but I always have to go like 5 drops of thinner to my MMP primer. I think the thinner coming out of the MMP bottles are smaller drops. Seems like it's not proportional to the amount of paint that comes out.
amazing videos Mike
Another great stream Mike! I actually got to hang for most of it. Cheers!
Mmp primer is great I love the oxide I use it all the time.
I use a GSI Creos Mr. Linear Compressor L7. Super quiet and teeny. Plenty of pressure for what we do. You can get a constant 22ish psi out of it. I don't use the regulator it comes with though. My setup is different than what they sell. I run mine into a regulator that has 1psi increments. It's way quieter than the other stuff out there. Not quite Silentaire levels of quiet but super close. Also it's an "always on" type of compressor so investing in a footswitch is recommended.
I love Mission Model paints. I bought a dedicated airbrush for them. I do however experience some flaking of the primer when applied on the styrene sheet. I did the whole washing the model to remove the oils before priming.
I’ve not experienced a primer issue at all. Could be you didn’t emulsify the mixture well enough.
all caught up, missed cos of the Euro football/Soccer...England versus Italy in the final on Sunday Mike, who ya gonna support ;-)
Do I have a choice!? UK 🇬🇧
Wait are you saying they are getting rid of lacquer paints? So MLT and Mr. Hobby paints will be gone ? Huh??
Lol, yah, I stopped using lacquers after TA4. ~10 years of using them wore me out for all the health issues and extra equipment required for both spraying and disposal. (I mention all this way back on the 2017 Moson seminar video). And remember a lot of the Tamiya + HS was made with water as the main thinner. Once MMP arrived I also stopped using lacquer primers too.
You don't dig ammo paints? I love them I think they are the best out of all the water based..
Just try Mission Models and you will change your opinion
It’s not that I don’t dig them, it was more about timing, I was already well stocked in all my stuff and didn’t want to add further investment. Def use what you like and enjoy!
@@rossomachin I did I bought a bunch and the paint don't adhere and it comes right off with any moisture. But I see how Mike uses them to his advantage with the the slight wear on the hetzer he's doing . And now it comes together . I absolutely love the late war colors and the red oxide primer.
Thank you again for the great chat, and I missed a few questions and comments.
Hair Dryer - Always use a hair dryer on low heat, the cheap basic one from a general market, Target, Walmart, Amazon, are perfect. I never use high heat or a heat gun (which looks very similar).
Night stream - I will try to add a night stream time for the future to allow for other time zones a chance to participate in chat. I'll announce those with plenty of warning for a different time. It looks like 6pm Pacific, 9pm Eastern, 2am UTC and 10am Tokyo (EDIT - next Weds July 14 will be a night time US stream).
Chat question I missed: regarding lacquer based primer "smoothness" vs water-based primer coat relative "smoothness" of the primed surface. All quality smooth surfaces start with good prep work for the sanded plastic taking it to a grit needed for the project (aircraft can go much higher in 2500+ grit levels of plastic prep, armor doesn't really need it, so 600-800 is plenty.)
From there it is making the variables at work perform the right way - lacquers are more forgiving, the main pro of a solvent-based system is ease of use and consistent results. Water-based systems require more adjustments or training/testing to perfect (especially if you are on a learning curve from solvents). In this way you can fine tune the final primer layer to the level of "smoothness" needed per the subject. Thinning ratio, air pressure, and distance/speed of the passes are the main ones to work with and adjust.
That said, if the primer is rougher than expected, sanding it and applying a fresh wetter thin top layer of primer usually fixes it. Things to watch out for with airbrushing primer is distance from the surface and primer hitting too dry (airbrush too far away) and causing a rough texture. Get closer to the model, or adjust thinner ratio (and/or psi), to apply in light wet coats that lay down with a gloss sheen -- but not runny or dripping wet.
I'll continue to discuss with each future priming step shown, thanks! (great question John)
Thanks Mike