Hi! There is a tip on how to omit U976, it is used for nothing on the A4000 (The "Options" jumpers that are not used at all). It only requires one small jump wire from U975 pin 1 to GND. It saves a lot if traces are bad around U976 :) Compare A4000 rev B schematics with A4000 rev D which doesn't have this chip at all :) Hope this helps!
Awesome. It's finally revealed! Sorry to have shipped you such a rabbit hole of a machine. But I suppose an A4000 needs to be earned. ;) I am crossing all my fingers and toes for it to be fixable. And then we can maybe see about some upgrades, who knows... ;)
Don't feel bad about the machine. Every A4000D motherboard looks about the same. However, it's in good hands! Thanks so much for donating him the machine. Us viewers really appreciate the lessons we learn from watching Jan work on such a precious computer!
@@milk-it Not all A4000 boards look like this (ok most do). I got lucky with my late 1993 Rev D A4000 board. The has a factory-set lithium cell and no battery. Therefore no corrosion damage. The capacitors were still good and could be replaced before they leaked.
Never boring. Love watching a skilled person work on these wonderful old computers. I wish I could do this work, but hand tremors have now wiped that out 🙄 Love your videos.
Thanks for this - it encouraged me to get my old A4000 out of the garage and inspect it for battery damage. Fortunately in my case the corrosion was only on the + terminal of the battery itself and hadn't migrated to the board. I clipped it out and cleaned nearby with IPA. I saw a few dull pads on some of the 4.7uf electrolytic caps, but all the other values were still bright and shiny. My board has a Rev 09 Superbuster and date codes from late 92. I also discovered that the rubber feet had liquified inside and spewed tarry goop all over my benchtop. That cleaned up with IPA and elbow grease and I removed the remaining goop from the case.
The high density floppies spin at half speed (only when in high density mode) because Paula is the floppy controller, and it was only configured to handle the data rate of double density disks. Since high density disks have twice as much data per track, to keep the same data rate they have to spin at half-speed. Since in AGA Paula is still the same old Paula, they just kept using the HD floppy solution that they originally created for the A3000. This also means the HD floppy drives work on all Amigas since they all have Paula.
That’s pretty interesting! So this is one of the HD floppy controllers that can’t handle 8" disks with an adapter? Since those spin at a fixed speed and use the HD data rate.
@@kaitlyn__L The Amiga floppy controller is actually pretty flexible, but the entire track has to fit in the DMA allotted to it. Paula isn't set up to do that for a full-rpm HD track. Even if you ran Paula with extra DMA by using ECS/AGA DMA slots (this is how you can do 56khz audio on Paula), Paula would want to use its existing structure to read/write the whole track. It might be possible to read a HD floppy by hammering Paula's registers with the CPU but if that were possible I think someone would have done it already.
I love your videos Jan. You remind me of the old time German engineering masters at work. I just repaired two battery damaged A3000s, one was pretty bad and had to replace many of the chips, etc. around the battery area and many bodge wires for trace damage, but it works perfectly now. Thank you for sharing your expertise with us!
If I ever get my old A4000/030 back I know this is going to await me,... and I am not ready for that! I need a lot more practice will solder and PCBs BUT I hope this goes well. You have already given me encouragement that I can deal with with A500s and 8 bit machines, May be one day I can attempt to do what you are doing now. It certainly brings back memories of the 90s when I had a maths co processor but not the skills to install the crystal socket... so I just put the crystal with it's legs bents into the processor board and fairly often got the yellow screen as the legs were not in contact with the vias! Oops.
Deine Videos waren noch nie langweilig. Ich entspanne mich total weil du so schön mit der richtigen hingabe Amigas und auch die anderen Modelle reparierst. Bin gespannt wie du das mit den Pads gelöst hast.
Chris Edwards (former CATS) has done a few similar boards. One much worse. Got it working! He frequently refers to the interactive schematics and buzzes through the traces with bodge wires to replace those beyond repair. There's a good chance that yours will be working, given time and patience. It's only rocket surgery ☺️
The vinegar does corrode things if left on the board, but the NiCd battery liquid is worse. The battery liquid contains some elements that leech into the solder and changes the alloy. This new alloy has a much higher melting point than "healthy" solder. This makes desoldering more difficult, and the risk of heat damaging the PCB increases a lot. I don't know if it leeches into the copper as well, but it woudn't surprise me. NiCd battery liquid is just horrible stuff.
Congrats on your A4000 donation, Jan! I am under the assumption that the corrosion gets under the solder mask and follows the traces underneath even after a thorough cleaning with white vinegar. Here you said the corrosion was halted but I respectfully disagree. As you saw after a full cleaning there was still remnant green stuff under an IC. I think it can even get in between the layers of fiberglass of the board, too. Recommend an ultrasonic cleaning but I realize that the board is too big to fit in most cleaners. Just need to clean the one side of course... Will watch Part 2 later.
hi Jan, The amiga 4000 will take at least 30 seconds to post a kickstart screen if no hard drive is connected (maybe no floppy also causes delays but I can't remember) depending on the version of kickstart rom installed.
Vielen Dank, Jan! I've been hanging out for you to do something with an A4000D. I've got one and ended up swapping the original motherboard with a refurbished one. The original one powered up fine, but the RAM slots' clips broke. Desoldering the RAM slots to replace them was a nightmare. I've left the original motherboard out for a future refurbishment, but it's going to take quite a lot of time.
What a cool machine to have for a project! Even if you can't get it working as is, this would be a great donor board for building up one of the reproduction/enhanced motherboards for the A4000. Even considering the immense amount of work I feel that it would be worthwhile considering that in modern times these machines may as well be made out of pure unobtainium.
Nice repair. Maybe, just maybe, this will give me the courage to tackle the Amiga 3000 I've been sitting on for a year with far worse leakage than this....
@@catriona_drummond Even more important. It's the newsletter editing machine from our users group back in the day. I really want to save it without resorting to a replacement motherboard but it's really REALLY bad.
For removing the motherboard, there is a tool that's available here in the USA: a ratcheting bit driver. It will drive any 1/4" (6.5mm) hex bit it tight spaces.
Highly Entertaining jan Good luck with saving this Beauty, I Always wanted a A4000 myself but was always out of my price range ATM i got an A1200 in a IBM Case :p Kinda Looks like the A4000 but without the commadore branding.
Some Microscope footage would be nice way to improve content to your channel ! Close ups of the damaged circuitry would be very interesting. Oh i commented before the end of the video :) There is a close up of the circuitry. My opinion, not that it counts, is that i prefer the longer videos. An hour long video is fine for me. I like seeing the process, the cleaning, the de-soldering, everything. Don't assume that any content is not of interest. If a find somethings a little repetitive i have the choice for skip ahead ! If its not in the video i can only watch what you choose to upload, which is also fine off course but ... yea i prefer to have the choice. Also it would be interesting to know your thought process and how you diagnose issues se we can learn from your videos. Remember some of us are still beginners.
Great, thank you very much! Lucky, it has Super Buster 11 installed, Version 9 had a bug that crashed sonetimes the system when used with a RTG graphics adapter.
I don't know if you have this product in Germany, but the best thing to use to stop the battery residue and its chemical reaction, and to also loosen it, is to use WD40 on it. WD40 isn't just a lubricant, it's designed to penetrate corrosion and loosen it. It also chemically neutralizes the acidity in the residue. You need to pool it up (spray a lot) and let it sit for a few hours, occasionally using a toothbrush to help loosen the gunk. When it seems to have finally done its job, use alcohol to remove the WD40 oily residue. Or a little bit of Dawn detergent in warm water works too. Use the alcohol to remove the water and any detergent. You will be surprised how well this works.
Yeah I was wondering that too, but as far as I can remember it didn't go to a Workbench screen at all. (it's been a while since I bought it and shipped it to Jan.)
I need to finish getting my 4000 fixed. It's partially done, recapped and cleaned up but something isn't right since it crashes after a few minutes. Don't know if the conversion from 040 to 060 (CS Mk II) is the culprit or the 060 isn't fully functional so I have to revert it back to 040 again. Running tests I get indications that there is a fault with one of the CIA's but if that's just a result of something else not working properly or not I don't know. Also, my CV64/3D isn't working at all, computer crashes when I try to initialize it. Don't know if it's the card itself or if it's because of something else. All other Zorro cards work just fine. Just felt it was to much so it has been sitting for a while which is sad since I used to have so much fun with it up until it started acting up a few years ago.
You should definitely replace all Ram sockets. Among the front two are VIAs which are certainly attacked at the level of corrosion. The third RAM socket is certainly also attacked because there are green contacts right next to it. Since the chipram socket is defective, it also has to be replaced and if you have to swap 4 out of 5, you can do all of them at once.
I’ve done 2 A4000 boards myself fortunately I caught the battery early so the damage was very minor. I did get given an A2000 where the battery had leaked so much half the motherboard was damaged, that one was way too far gone.
Hallo Jan Wenn du denkst, dass die Korrosion vom Essig ist, wäre es dann nicht besser mit etwas basischem zu neutralisieren? Allenfalls ist es nötig, mit einem PH Papierstreifen zuerst den pH-Wert zu bestimmen? Aber natürlich wie immer, tolle Arbeit! :)
Gadgetuk164 did a great series fixing a couple a4000 boards with the same kind of damage in the same area, it may be worth a watch for some ideas on how to rebuild that area. On another note I'm totally jealous as a person with Amiga sickness the A4000 is like the holy grail, im always hopeing to find one, not the most common machine in Australia.
Yeah Gadget did some impressive work back then. As for the A4000 being the holy grail, yeah, kinda, but try and find an A3000 actually. THAT is a proper nightmare. :)
Agreed the 3000 is a rare machine indeed, id be happy with a 2000, sadly I don't have any big box amigas in my collection, have been considering sacrificing one of my 500's to build a 2000, that way all I have to find custom chip wise is a buster, put it all on one of the new reproduction 2000 boards, could be a fun project
Ohje, der 4000er hat den typischen, gemischten Elektolyt und Batterieschaden erlitten, aber dieserRechner ist jeden Rettungsversuch wert. Ich trauere meinem 4000er nach, den ich vor Jahren mal einem damals guten Freund gegeben habe,inte4essanterweise habd ich die Tastatur und die Mouse noch, weil ich die damals nicht gefunden habe...
hm, after seeing the damage, whouldn't it be better to work on a replacement PCB and move the Chips over?? Are people trying to make a new PCB for the A4000 as a Replacement for the old Boards?
Kind of a toss of a coin thing. Noone really knows which way it will be more work at the beginning. This corrosion looked tame at first but got only worse with each removed part.
@@catriona_drummond Well, it depends on the Damage. The Problem that I see is that we can't be sure to get rid of all the corrosive elements and that the board will work reliable in the future and that the corrosion would continue... Yes, it would be a lot of work to populate the new board, but I think it'll worth it (also: it should have green or brown Soldermask, not Black, Black Sucks).
@@Stefan_Payne we definitely agree on the colour. As for the board. I guess projects like these just tend to murphyslaw themselves into an zone where they consume the maximum amount of work. I kinda hope this board will make it through so Jan doesn't have to start over.
Hello great channel. Yesterday i also got me a Amiga 4000/030 i cut out the battery and messured the powersupply and looked for shorts on the mainboard. And i started it yesterday and it works. But a werry noisy fan i need to repair and Retrobright on the case. RB Retro Bunker is my channel verry smal :)
The green Screen without any Ram is normal and you should wait longer with the grey screen because without any Floppy and IDE device connected the A4000 searches up to a minute for a boot device before the Kickstart screen is shown.
My theory with the slow floppy drives is that Commodore wanted to carry on the tradition from the 1541. Just gotta make a Zorro slot version of the Epyx Fast Load cartridge and speeds will be fine. ;)
Nice. Now I know why You refused my A2000. Yeah, I assume 4K sounds better than 2K. I never had seen an A4000 in Flesh. I am jealous regarding the Machine, but not the Work. :) Catriona you are amazing! See You then on Discord. Amiga, A4000 Rock solid since 1993... Greetings from Hamburg
That assembly surely wasn't made with serviceability in mind. Pretty awful. Also, the damage from the leak seemed quite severe. I'd probably remove a few more components just to be sure.
Kind of a toss of a coin thing. Noone really knows which way it will be more work at the beginning. This corrosion looked tame at first but got only worse with each removed part.
thanks for de video...! thats its, was i currently need.(aaaagrrhh, my english .;-)...have a nice long weekend, und alles gute dir, danke für deine arbeit und grüße in den norden!!...dor KrautRockt!er aus Chemnitz
Vielleicht wäre es einfacher gewesen eines dieser unbestückten neuen mainboards zu nehmen und die komponenten nach einer Reinigung und einem Funktionstest umzubauen.Da werden wahrscheinlich noch mehr Probleme sein die man nicht so einfach sieht.Das Netzteil müsste auch überprüft werden denn es bringt ja nix wenn das board dann endlich lüppt und es plötzlich PUFF macht und alles ist Putt.
Vinegar just evaporates. It does not stay there. Whatever smelled like that, it was probably not that. Edit: Also, just wash the board with dish washing detergent and a long haired soft brush after removing the caps. That's gonna take off the cap jouce and whatever the vinegar left beehind.
Hi! There is a tip on how to omit U976, it is used for nothing on the A4000 (The "Options" jumpers that are not used at all). It only requires one small jump wire from U975 pin 1 to GND. It saves a lot if traces are bad around U976 :) Compare A4000 rev B schematics with A4000 rev D which doesn't have this chip at all :) Hope this helps!
Awesome. It's finally revealed!
Sorry to have shipped you such a rabbit hole of a machine. But I suppose an A4000 needs to be earned. ;)
I am crossing all my fingers and toes for it to be fixable. And then we can maybe see about some upgrades, who knows... ;)
Don't feel bad about the machine. Every A4000D motherboard looks about the same. However, it's in good hands! Thanks so much for donating him the machine. Us viewers really appreciate the lessons we learn from watching Jan work on such a precious computer!
@@milk-it Not all A4000 boards look like this (ok most do). I got lucky with my late 1993 Rev D A4000 board. The has a factory-set lithium cell and no battery. Therefore no corrosion damage.
The capacitors were still good and could be replaced before they leaked.
@@sircathal7505 Yeah, I'd say you got lucky ;-). The capacitors on my old board hadn't ruined it, yet, either.
Never boring. Love watching a skilled person work on these wonderful old computers. I wish I could do this work, but hand tremors have now wiped that out 🙄 Love your videos.
Thanks for this - it encouraged me to get my old A4000 out of the garage and inspect it for battery damage. Fortunately in my case the corrosion was only on the + terminal of the battery itself and hadn't migrated to the board. I clipped it out and cleaned nearby with IPA. I saw a few dull pads on some of the 4.7uf electrolytic caps, but all the other values were still bright and shiny. My board has a Rev 09 Superbuster and date codes from late 92. I also discovered that the rubber feet had liquified inside and spewed tarry goop all over my benchtop. That cleaned up with IPA and elbow grease and I removed the remaining goop from the case.
Brave Jan Beta. Working the fiber glass pen without gloves.
The high density floppies spin at half speed (only when in high density mode) because Paula is the floppy controller, and it was only configured to handle the data rate of double density disks. Since high density disks have twice as much data per track, to keep the same data rate they have to spin at half-speed.
Since in AGA Paula is still the same old Paula, they just kept using the HD floppy solution that they originally created for the A3000. This also means the HD floppy drives work on all Amigas since they all have Paula.
That’s pretty interesting! So this is one of the HD floppy controllers that can’t handle 8" disks with an adapter? Since those spin at a fixed speed and use the HD data rate.
@@kaitlyn__L The Amiga floppy controller is actually pretty flexible, but the entire track has to fit in the DMA allotted to it. Paula isn't set up to do that for a full-rpm HD track. Even if you ran Paula with extra DMA by using ECS/AGA DMA slots (this is how you can do 56khz audio on Paula), Paula would want to use its existing structure to read/write the whole track.
It might be possible to read a HD floppy by hammering Paula's registers with the CPU but if that were possible I think someone would have done it already.
I love your videos Jan. You remind me of the old time German engineering masters at work. I just repaired two battery damaged A3000s, one was pretty bad and had to replace many of the chips, etc. around the battery area and many bodge wires for trace damage, but it works perfectly now. Thank you for sharing your expertise with us!
This video was Not boring at all. I am very eager to watch the following video. Nice work Jan.
If I ever get my old A4000/030 back I know this is going to await me,... and I am not ready for that! I need a lot more practice will solder and PCBs BUT I hope this goes well. You have already given me encouragement that I can deal with with A500s and 8 bit machines, May be one day I can attempt to do what you are doing now. It certainly brings back memories of the 90s when I had a maths co processor but not the skills to install the crystal socket... so I just put the crystal with it's legs bents into the processor board and fairly often got the yellow screen as the legs were not in contact with the vias! Oops.
Thanks! I like your videos. They relax me :)
Deine Videos waren noch nie langweilig. Ich entspanne mich total weil du so schön mit der richtigen hingabe Amigas und auch die anderen Modelle reparierst. Bin gespannt wie du das mit den Pads gelöst hast.
Great video Jan! Thanks for taking us along on this discovery of the battery, and cap, damage.
I had to do same repair to my A4000. Glad you opted for new simm sockets. The corrosion on my board had seeped under the front most simm socket.
Never had an Amiga 4000, but always nice to see a new video from you Jan.
Excellent project Jan. Recommended watching GadgetUK series fixing some horrendous A4000 boards, damage in the same areas.
Love resurrection vids like this. Can't wait to see more progress on the A4000.
Nice work. Looking forward to the next installment.
Amazing, looking forward to the next part and she boots!
Chris Edwards (former CATS) has done a few similar boards. One much worse. Got it working!
He frequently refers to the interactive schematics and buzzes through the traces with bodge wires to replace those beyond repair.
There's a good chance that yours will be working, given time and patience. It's only rocket surgery ☺️
The vinegar does corrode things if left on the board, but the NiCd battery liquid is worse. The battery liquid contains some elements that leech into the solder and changes the alloy. This new alloy has a much higher melting point than "healthy" solder. This makes desoldering more difficult, and the risk of heat damaging the PCB increases a lot. I don't know if it leeches into the copper as well, but it woudn't surprise me. NiCd battery liquid is just horrible stuff.
Great video, looking forward to part two!
What a treat, good luck with the repair!
Congrats on your A4000 donation, Jan!
I am under the assumption that the corrosion gets under the solder mask and follows the traces underneath even after a thorough cleaning with white vinegar. Here you said the corrosion was halted but I respectfully disagree. As you saw after a full cleaning there was still remnant green stuff under an IC.
I think it can even get in between the layers of fiberglass of the board, too. Recommend an ultrasonic cleaning but I realize that the board is too big to fit in most cleaners. Just need to clean the one side of course... Will watch Part 2 later.
Wow, that's a mess, eh? I actually have an A4000 in a box and it needs similar work, as they all do. Can't wait for Part2!
The photo at the end...wow. I cannot wait to see how it will look once fixed. One IC looks like half the pads are gone.
Great work! Such a machine worth saving.
hi Jan,
The amiga 4000 will take at least 30 seconds to post a kickstart screen if no hard drive is connected (maybe no floppy also causes delays but I can't remember) depending on the version of kickstart rom installed.
Stai facendo una riparazione eccellente Jan.modello mitico !
Vielen Dank, Jan! I've been hanging out for you to do something with an A4000D. I've got one and ended up swapping the original motherboard with a refurbished one. The original one powered up fine, but the RAM slots' clips broke. Desoldering the RAM slots to replace them was a nightmare. I've left the original motherboard out for a future refurbishment, but it's going to take quite a lot of time.
What a cool machine to have for a project! Even if you can't get it working as is, this would be a great donor board for building up one of the reproduction/enhanced motherboards for the A4000. Even considering the immense amount of work I feel that it would be worthwhile considering that in modern times these machines may as well be made out of pure unobtainium.
also the 4 ic's above the ram are all corroded, pause the vid at 26:04
I run Amiga of Rochester. I have worked on a few 4000s in my time. This one is definitely not great so interesting to see the progress.
I guess in part 2 when you remove the RAM sockets you'll find more corrosion damage, especially around the via's under Bank 3 RAM socket.
Nice repair. Maybe, just maybe, this will give me the courage to tackle the Amiga 3000 I've been sitting on for a year with far worse leakage than this....
Oooooh, a 3000 is even rarer! Best of luck!
@@catriona_drummond Even more important. It's the newsletter editing machine from our users group back in the day. I really want to save it without resorting to a replacement motherboard but it's really REALLY bad.
For removing the motherboard, there is a tool that's available here in the USA: a ratcheting bit driver. It will drive any 1/4" (6.5mm) hex bit it tight spaces.
Highly Entertaining jan Good luck with saving this Beauty, I Always wanted a A4000 myself but was always out of my price range ATM i got an A1200 in a IBM Case :p Kinda Looks like the A4000 but without the commadore branding.
I am very jealous! Although I always wanted the 060 Tower version :)
Some Microscope footage would be nice way to improve content to your channel ! Close ups of the damaged circuitry would be very interesting. Oh i commented before the end of the video :) There is a close up of the circuitry. My opinion, not that it counts, is that i prefer the longer videos. An hour long video is fine for me. I like seeing the process, the cleaning, the de-soldering, everything. Don't assume that any content is not of interest. If a find somethings a little repetitive i have the choice for skip ahead ! If its not in the video i can only watch what you choose to upload, which is also fine off course but ... yea i prefer to have the choice. Also it would be interesting to know your thought process and how you diagnose issues se we can learn from your videos. Remember some of us are still beginners.
Great, thank you very much! Lucky, it has Super Buster 11 installed, Version 9 had a bug that crashed sonetimes the system when used with a RTG graphics adapter.
I don't know if you have this product in Germany, but the best thing to use to stop the battery residue and its chemical reaction, and to also loosen it, is to use WD40 on it. WD40 isn't just a lubricant, it's designed to penetrate corrosion and loosen it. It also chemically neutralizes the acidity in the residue. You need to pool it up (spray a lot) and let it sit for a few hours, occasionally using a toothbrush to help loosen the gunk. When it seems to have finally done its job, use alcohol to remove the WD40 oily residue. Or a little bit of Dawn detergent in warm water works too. Use the alcohol to remove the water and any detergent. You will be surprised how well this works.
Question what is the HP labeled chip for?
Is the 4000 different than the 3000 that it doesn’t require the daughter card inserted to post?
I don't know how about the a4000 but my a3000 does not boot without the Zorro Slot Daughter board
The 4k needs a 2MB memory module to boot in the ChipRam slot, at least mine. A 4MB module causes a green screen too.
Did you try connecting the HD after you got the grey screen?
They take a while trying to boot from onboard ide then floppy when nothing is connected.
Yeah I was wondering that too, but as far as I can remember it didn't go to a Workbench screen at all. (it's been a while since I bought it and shipped it to Jan.)
I need to finish getting my 4000 fixed. It's partially done, recapped and cleaned up but something isn't right since it crashes after a few minutes. Don't know if the conversion from 040 to 060 (CS Mk II) is the culprit or the 060 isn't fully functional so I have to revert it back to 040 again. Running tests I get indications that there is a fault with one of the CIA's but if that's just a result of something else not working properly or not I don't know. Also, my CV64/3D isn't working at all, computer crashes when I try to initialize it. Don't know if it's the card itself or if it's because of something else. All other Zorro cards work just fine. Just felt it was to much so it has been sitting for a while which is sad since I used to have so much fun with it up until it started acting up a few years ago.
@5:28 I'm thinking, No Jan, just take the DVD Rom out first....And then check if there is a hole in the tray to put the screwdriver through....
You should definitely replace all Ram sockets. Among the front two are VIAs which are certainly attacked at the level of corrosion. The third RAM socket is certainly also attacked because there are green contacts right next to it.
Since the chipram socket is defective, it also has to be replaced and if you have to swap 4 out of 5, you can do all of them at once.
Great Project!! Wish You the Best👍🏻
hi.i love your youtube channel.it is possible to share how the front panel cables are conected.for example the pictures you taked.thanks
I’ve done 2 A4000 boards myself fortunately I caught the battery early so the damage was very minor. I did get given an A2000 where the battery had leaked so much half the motherboard was damaged, that one was way too far gone.
Hallo Jan
Wenn du denkst, dass die Korrosion vom Essig ist, wäre es dann nicht besser mit etwas basischem zu neutralisieren?
Allenfalls ist es nötig, mit einem PH Papierstreifen zuerst den pH-Wert zu bestimmen?
Aber natürlich wie immer, tolle Arbeit! :)
That can leave salt behind, which causes its own set of problems.
Gadgetuk164 did a great series fixing a couple a4000 boards with the same kind of damage in the same area, it may be worth a watch for some ideas on how to rebuild that area.
On another note I'm totally jealous as a person with Amiga sickness the A4000 is like the holy grail, im always hopeing to find one, not the most common machine in Australia.
Yeah Gadget did some impressive work back then. As for the A4000 being the holy grail, yeah, kinda, but try and find an A3000 actually. THAT is a proper nightmare. :)
Agreed the 3000 is a rare machine indeed, id be happy with a 2000, sadly I don't have any big box amigas in my collection, have been considering sacrificing one of my 500's to build a 2000, that way all I have to find custom chip wise is a buster, put it all on one of the new reproduction 2000 boards, could be a fun project
What speakers do you have?
Someone gave you a 4000 nice. I have been looking for a cheap one for awhile.
Ohje, der 4000er hat den typischen, gemischten Elektolyt und Batterieschaden erlitten, aber dieserRechner ist jeden Rettungsversuch wert. Ich trauere meinem 4000er nach, den ich vor Jahren mal einem damals guten Freund gegeben habe,inte4essanterweise habd ich die Tastatur und die Mouse noch, weil ich die damals nicht gefunden habe...
This freaking awesome Jan
Get the kids inside, it's the Oh-Dirty Variant!
Great care & attention!
hm, after seeing the damage, whouldn't it be better to work on a replacement PCB and move the Chips over??
Are people trying to make a new PCB for the A4000 as a Replacement for the old Boards?
Kind of a toss of a coin thing. Noone really knows which way it will be more work at the beginning.
This corrosion looked tame at first but got only worse with each removed part.
@@catriona_drummond Well, it depends on the Damage.
The Problem that I see is that we can't be sure to get rid of all the corrosive elements and that the board will work reliable in the future and that the corrosion would continue...
Yes, it would be a lot of work to populate the new board, but I think it'll worth it (also: it should have green or brown Soldermask, not Black, Black Sucks).
@@Stefan_Payne we definitely agree on the colour. As for the board. I guess projects like these just tend to murphyslaw themselves into an zone where they consume the maximum amount of work. I kinda hope this board will make it through so Jan doesn't have to start over.
Hello great channel. Yesterday i also got me a Amiga 4000/030 i cut out the battery and messured the powersupply and looked for shorts on the mainboard. And i started it yesterday and it works. But a werry noisy fan i need to repair and Retrobright on the case. RB Retro Bunker is my channel verry smal :)
The green Screen without any Ram is normal and you should wait longer with the grey screen because without any Floppy and IDE device connected the A4000 searches up to a minute for a boot device before the Kickstart screen is shown.
My theory with the slow floppy drives is that Commodore wanted to carry on the tradition from the 1541. Just gotta make a Zorro slot version of the Epyx Fast Load cartridge and speeds will be fine. ;)
Wow... I think I wouldn't be patient enough to do something like this...
Not saying that is why I donated it, but I do agree. :)
You looked young and happy at the start of the video and old and broken at the end. I'm just kidding. Good work!
Nice. Now I know why You refused my A2000. Yeah, I assume 4K sounds better than 2K.
I never had seen an A4000 in Flesh. I am jealous regarding the Machine, but not the Work. :)
Catriona you are amazing!
See You then on Discord.
Amiga, A4000 Rock solid since 1993...
Greetings from Hamburg
and the chips to the left infront of the zorro slot are grey.....
Yeah! New video - Day saved!
U706 U704 and U702's pins are dull grey as well....
Did I see a HP chip inside that thing? Didint know HP made chips for Amiga. Cool.
The fabrication process for this larger chip probably was a bit challenging for the aging fab that Commodore owned.
hm, have you thought about getting an Ultrasonic Cleaner?
This size, it's pretty expensive for a hobby. You can use a dishwasher, not too hot and no detergent works fine.
@@Breakfast_of_Champions yeah, but wouldn't it be fine if the board was just partially submerged and only the affected area cleaned??
A year? Wow, I'm guessing you had problems sourcing replacement parts.
That assembly surely wasn't made with serviceability in mind. Pretty awful. Also, the damage from the leak seemed quite severe. I'd probably remove a few more components just to be sure.
great 😀 Thumbs up Beta! many would simply use PCBwaaaaaay and re-manufactured a4000+ board or variant.
Kind of a toss of a coin thing. Noone really knows which way it will be more work at the beginning.
This corrosion looked tame at first but got only worse with each removed part.
If it needs 3 parts to cover it properly and do justice to your obvious hard work, then so be it.
I'd love to havean A4000, they just look the part of being an Amiga, not sure how that works, but that's my brain for you... :P
Vier Erfolg dabei!
and the 2 ic's zext to the audio outputs....
thanks for de video...! thats its, was i currently need.(aaaagrrhh, my english .;-)...have a nice long weekend, und alles gute dir, danke für deine arbeit und grüße in den norden!!...dor KrautRockt!er aus Chemnitz
Greetings to my hometown! The A4000 was donated by a former Chemnitzerin. :)
@@catriona_drummond lol!...das ist ja genial...grüße zurück!
Ich habe meinen A4000 geliebt! 😍 Dumm das ich zu PC gewechselt bin.... 😣
VARTAAAA!!! killer of Amigas...
Huzzah for Catriona!
Thanks :D
WHAT?!?! Someone DONATED an A4000 to you? Woooow, was für'n Glückspilz!! ;-)))
Jeder braucht ab und zu mal eine gute Fee. :D
Make a daughter board to correct the damaged area.
Damn. Now. Now I’m jealous.
Remember when clearing that shit off a board soak that in flux , and if you can still see the board you dont have enough flux :P
The corrosion corroded the corrosion further, but no more
Vielleicht wäre es einfacher gewesen eines dieser unbestückten neuen mainboards zu nehmen und die komponenten nach einer Reinigung und einem Funktionstest umzubauen.Da werden wahrscheinlich noch mehr Probleme sein die man nicht so einfach sieht.Das Netzteil müsste auch überprüft werden denn es bringt ja nix wenn das board dann endlich lüppt und es plötzlich PUFF macht und alles ist Putt.
Man I really dislike those all plastic ram slots. Such a cheap-out. They broke even back in the day.
Slow drives - 1541 enters the chat
I would love to get a donation like that for my channel. Have fun with the 4000 😎
Well I just subscribed to your channel. So that's a start ;)
@@catriona_drummond Thanks 😊
Donation ????? Respekt
Man muss halt auch mal Schwein haben im Leben. :D
Nice donation.
Vinegar just evaporates. It does not stay there. Whatever smelled like that, it was probably not that.
Edit: Also, just wash the board with dish washing detergent and a long haired soft brush after removing the caps. That's gonna take off the cap jouce and whatever the vinegar left beehind.
those machines were really advanced for their time 🧐.............. look... they even came with DVD ROM 🥴🤡
Why is this guy not using any sort of extraction while doing board repairs all the fumes were going straight up his nose, thats just dumb.
Subscribed 20220526 10:37am.