I like that you are willing to rebuild an old motherboard instead of throwing it out! We all need to start doing this with things because they are treasures that contain endless enjoyment.
@@quakesin1982 Yes. I know and follow many similar channels. Yet once in a while there's one that's been escaping me forever like it was the case with this one three years ago.
I've done similar work on an old Sega Mega Play cartridge, and gave up when I accidentally lifted a trace. Seeing your repairwork kinda wants me to try and fix that cartridge now!
I like the suspense on the entire video. Besides I've learned a lot - vineger for the battery acid, jumper wires, restoring the tracks, remove corroded solder, restore broken IC leg.
This is amazing, I am stunned by your attention to detail and patience. I hope one day I will learn from your videos how to become a master repairman like you :) Thank you for sharing.
@@necro_ware Your videos are packed full of information, I already learned several new things since I started binge watching you channel today :) Keep it up and thank you!
I caught your first video on Septandy, so now I am going back and seeing these. I have several old mainboards I have removed the Varta battery on, but have not had the guts to really attempt repairs on. I'm sure its not as easy as you make it look, but I will try to repair them now.
Dude! That was a restauration and a half! Tinning those traces, what a great idea. Seen a lot of retro channels out there but you bring a few new things to the table. Now the criticism :P - the video is impressive but I miss a bit more of an explanation, maybe. You know? It would make a much longer video and this is probably not your main goal but I, who has a dozen of these boards in various states of disrepair here, I found myself asking: wait! why is he testing that, why does he know this, is it like that on every board? Definitely subscribing though and looking forward to more videos.
Thank you very much! I appreciate also your critics very much and will try to explain more next time. Just as you've said, the video gets unfortunately very long if I explain too much, and I sometimes tend to, however I even cut out many explanations in the end again to get the whole thing shorter, because I think, nobody is interested in explanations :) That's why I ask for feedback, just to know, what people want to see on the channel. Thank you, once again!
Yeah I guess it's a matter of philosophy. Some people are probably more results-oriented and just want to see it all come together. I admit I am rather the Adrian Black school of viewer who want to understand stuff and follow you down the rabbit hole of troubleshooting. I guess both approaches work. Hope your channel grows, while I'll think of that 386 board with the microscopic SMD resistor/cap? that came right off together with it's pad after the vinegar treatment and that I will come back to once I reached your level of skill, haha if ever :)
I had a lot of fun with my 286 16 MHz with 0 wait states at that time. Although it was not as "multimedia" as my Amiga the CPU was much faster and the VGA performed very good with 3D games as well.
Congrats, really good skills repairing that damaged motherboard... I have five battery damaged motherboards and this video will be my inspiration and guide to recover as many as I can.
Yeah, I don't like tantalums either. They're extremely reliable.... Until they're not. Unlike electrolytics, which go high-resistance gradually, loosing capacitance, tantalums fail short-circuit, which can be rather... spectacular.
Wah!! haven't seen 1mb of ram in a long time :D I'm so happy to see you fix this computer!! Maybe I'll look around for old PCs to fix since it looks fun to fill my hobby itches
Very interesting to see what is possible. Gives me a lot of anxiety though. I have many mainboards in storage which have those damnable barrel batteries. Haven't checked 'em in a while.
after watching your video, I went through and removed all my old mainboard batteries in storage making sure first there is a silkscreen + and - for a new battery. most also have a jumper and pins for an external battery as you probably know.
Ich danke youtube für diesen Videovorschlag. Immer schön jemanden zu sehen, der so hervorragend Jumpercables legt und defekte Verbindungen findet. Hast einen neuen Abonnierer. Deine Aussprache ist ebenfalls top, aber wer bei Reichelt kauft, muss Deutsch sprechen. ;-)
Schön, dass es Dir gefallen hat und vielen Dank für den Lob. Und ja, Deine Einschätzung ist völlig richtig, ich spreche auch Deutsch, aber ebenfalls mit Akzent ;)
There is something horrifying and deeply unsettling about that 40 column "CMOS INOPERATIONAL SYSTEM HALTED" message. If I'd seen that at 0200, I'd probably just implode.
lol, just laughing now coz we use the same flow for repairing. Oh man.. you did really a good job on that board. amazing. I definitely had to subscribe your channel now. 😉
You have given me hope that I can fix my broken motherboards that I haven't given up on yet. I think I will definitely benefit from having one of those scope/analyser things you have. And what is the wire you used for trace replacement?
You don't necessary need an oscilloscope, very often you just can use a logic probe, as I showed in my April's repair marathon videos. As for the wires, in this video I was out of thin wires, so I used a thick wires from a telephone cable. I usually use 30 AWG wires for repair.
Cut the old battery out, run it through the dishwasher, blow out any remaining water with the air compressor and then start repair. The dishwasher run will help to better neutralize any remaining corrosive material. Edit: You did a great job.
Thank you. I know, that many people use a dishwasher, but I prefer the old fashioned way. Furthermore, if my wife will see me putting such "things" into the dishwasher I will need to search another home, I guess :D
I could, but if you have solder on the traces, it is optional. Only bare copper traces need to be protected from oxidation and since I tinned everything, a solder mask is not necessary.
what do you think of lacker (or nail polish) on the bare traces instead of tinning them? it does not need heating up the half-damaged traces. although it might be harder to remove if I need to touch those traces in the future.
Hi! Sometimes I use nail polish too, if I want to close some surface scratches on the mask layer. However, when the traces were half eaten away by acid, you never know how thick they are now. You also can't see micro cracks in the traces and they are very complicated to find. So, in such cases I prefer to tin them at least to regain the thickness.
Thank you! I didn't stop the time, but, yes, it was something around 10 hours, I guess. Unfortunately, it takes more time to make the video, than to repair a mainboard :D I'm still very inexperienced in that matter, but I'm trying hard to improve.
Dont know how much you read old posts but i have a 286 board that desnt post. Varta damage. Have done plenty of errors allready but tinned some traces and cleaned what i can find. Still no post. Swapped the the transistors near the battery, other one was dead but if some other clear points can be added i would be glad. What other components can go bad?
hey awesome clip...a qustion: can i become a image from your CF kart on the 286?...i have the same problems and i need a functionaly system in software. (i have all disks, because i dont have a func. diskdrive..🙂..sorry for my bad english, i wish a good springtime in `24 an d all best wishes from chemnitz...your KrautRockt!er from germany...
So this is a multi-layered PCB? In this case, I'm surprised that the keyboard data line (which you fixed at the end) was the only inner layer trace which was broken. Were multi-layer PCBs common for mainboards of that time? I wouldn't expect those before 386 mainboards...
i had same headland mobo but version with memory slots. No sucess 😞 leak battery maybe not big problem but there was broken bios and not recognizer more than 2MB RAM. With MR Bios all 4MB count after boot to DOS random hang. So my 286 project ended 😢
no clue necroware if you ever look and see old comments, but what are the thing you apply vinigar with? some pipette ? im on the look for similar.. if any see this and can confirm
Witzig. Genau so ein Board (originalverpackt und vermutlich ungenutzt) hab' ich letztens zufällig aus meinem Fundus gezogen, die Batterie gesehen und gleich mal runtergelötet. Ich glaube, ich teste das demnächst mal. So korrodiert wie Deins sah es nicht aus, aber die Batterie war ebenfalls undicht.
When you do these repairs with all those jumper wires, is there anything that you put on them so that they stay in place or are you just very careful with it any time you handle it?
Hi, I have the same mainboard. Can you tell me what kind of external battery you used? Voltage and the pinout of the battery connector? Thanks and keep up the good work!
Hi Tobias! You can use a CR2032 3V battery or just a pack of two normal AA batteries with 2x1.5V=3V. I don't have the mainboard at hand now, so I unfortuantely can't tell you the pinout, but its very easy to find out. The 4 pin header above the keyboard connector is for the external battery. One of the outter pins is ground and the other outer pin is +3V. The middle two pins are usually not connected. Anyway, you can checkout which one of the pins is ground by using a simple multimeter and measuring the resistence to the ground (f.e. metal around the mounting holes). The pin, where the resistence is around 0 is the ground pin. Good luck!
@@necro_ware Thank you so much for your complex answer, didn't expect so much help :-) Greatly appreciated! Your channel has excellent content, just subscribed. I hope your channel will get more attention soon, with such high quality content it's just a matter of time. All the best!
Nice repair. Could you make a BIOS dump from chips and share it? I have MB with similar chipset, but broken bios and couldn't find any suitable to make it alive again. Thank you
Hi there! Thank you. You can find the mainboard under the following link, where you can download 3 versions of BIOS (my version is with suffix -K8) www.win3x.org/uh19/motherboard/show/6763
I always wonder how much cadmium it is in that leaked electrolytic "acid" (and if it's legal to put that substance in the drain). Haven't dared to try fix my own damaged main boards yet.
There should be no cadmium in that electrolyte. Cadmium is used for the electrodes. The electrolyte is a base, nickel oxide hydroxide, to be precise. You shouldn't put any if that into the drain of course and the batteries have to be recycled properly. The spilled electrolyte (base) on the other hand I always neutralize with some acid (usually vinegar), which reaction results in salt and water. That is not dangerous, especially in that tiny amounts. I made a video about this topic once.
@@necro_ware Thank you for answering! But the electrodes are in contact and react chemically with that liquid base, right? How do we know really that (practically) no cadmium follows it out when it is leaking? I have absolutely no idea about the doses that would expose us to though, or how it would compare to (say) old red/yellow plastic, yellow sheet metal, smoking, mushrooms, or other cadmium sources. Pretty hard to find much about it on the internet too :(
:D It's a good question. I mean it is a very old hardware, which was heavily damaged. Regarding corrosion, I tried my best and left vinegar working a little bit longer, so it should have got into every hole and hopefully neutralized the electrolyte properly. If so, and corrosion was stopped, it should work as long as it would without any corrosion at all. I repaired this board about 10 months ago and it is still absolutely working. Just used it yesterday for some experiments. I saw a lot of people trying the same without neutralizing the electrolyte. In such cases as soon as they turn on the mainboard, the chemical reaction will be accelerated by the electrical current and the board dies within a month, or even less, dependent from the damage.
@@necro_ware I am not an expert on this but I assume it is a good idea to let the vinegar dry before you turn the thing on again, and that should help avoid electrolysis?. But again I am not an expert. I didn't know that vinegar does such a job. These boards remind me the time I was young, that is why I watch these videos. I would also like to watch pimped systems, that is systems from that era that use some modern hardware and hacks that make them extra fast. This is fun.
If you are interested, you can watch one of my previous videos, where I explain why and how the vinegar has to be used for restoration. ruclips.net/video/sVxqLBp6l1c/видео.html In regards of pimped systems. I do sometimes nice builds and I already have some nice videos about that. But I rarely overclock or torture the systems in other ways. This retro parts are meanwhile very rare, expensive and fragile due to their age. I do like that oldies too much you know :D But feel free to watch my "let's build" videos, may be you like them as well...
Lots of wire bodging. I say well done reviving this 286 but aesthetically is not good looking. I also have a 286 Harris with a 20 mhz cpu but it's not showing signs of life. Another that I have (AMD 286 16 MHZ) beeps 6 times (short pauses) with a speaker attached but no video output. There's no damage from the battery (no signs of corrosion), no static ram nor sipp modules installed (came with sipp instead of simm). How do I troubleshoot it?
hi! do you mean this vinegar en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vinegar? but how this work? copper yet oxidized - and we use acid another one and how strong vinegar you use? 7%(vinegar acid) or 70%(vinegar essencion)?
@@necro_ware thanks. but i'm not quite sure what i can buy in Russia exactly white vinegar but we can buy vinegar 70% or vinegar 7% - which is right percentage for repair?
I'm using 10-15% vinegar. Exact number is not important, just don't go to much over 15%. You can also use pure lemon juice, it doesn't smell as bad as white vinegar ;) And always wash the board properly with clean water and put it into a dry warm place for 24 hours afterwards before you turn it on. EDIT: если что, я говорю по русски тоже и если что-то совсем не понятно, с радостью помогу.
It's a cheap device, which is not 100% as good as it claims. It says, that it can measure up to 100MHz, but in real you get reliable values for up to around 35MHz. However, this is absolutely sufficient for repairing retro hardware with FSB of up to 33MHz. And if you don't care about exact voltage, but only about the signal shape, you can go for up to 100MHz as well. In the end, it is super compact, works from a rechargeable battery, very cheap and does, what I need in the range of my interest. See: de.aliexpress.com/item/33021370646.html?aff_platform=link-c-tool&sk=Lirr17DW&aff_trace_key=0d3f7da30af94d5b920aa43b4af80d10-1602228886792-00608-Lirr17DW&terminal_id=5e23f645d07d42e78df79d2b610bc10e&tmLog=new_Detail
This is the exact problem, if you get electrolyte on the solder, it reacts and gets heavily oxidized. This oxide goes very deep and doesn't melt at usual soldering temperatures anymore and if you go too high, you'll burn the PCB. You also can't get fresh solder to the joints, because it doesn't stick on the oxide. Ever tried to get solder on aluminium? It's similar result. So, you have to get through the oxide somehow and if it's too late and it got into the holes, there is just a little chance to desolder something without damaging the pads or traces.
This is really good ! You have many techniques I didn't think of when I attempted to fix my deeply corroded board (which ended up being failures :( ) Maybe I'll give them another go. Meanwhile, UH19 have been released here : www.win3x.org/uh19/ ^^ (I haven't found this board unfortunately) Don't forget to come see us back, we have some great news and we're about to start to work on expansion cards and other things.
Hi Deksor! I know, I'm following your progress daily, I'm just a little bit busy with some other stuff currently, that's why you don't see me on the forum lately. But still, I'm there and I'm looking forward for the expansion cards database!
@@necro_ware nah, just pointing it out as a joke. Well done on that repair, I tried on a 386 of my own with similar damage, could not resurrect it at all. It just stayed dead, no beeps, no nothing.
I like that you are willing to rebuild an old motherboard instead of throwing it out! We all need to start doing this with things because they are treasures that contain endless enjoyment.
Awesome channel! Why is it so hard to find such amazing content on YT? Wish I had found you sooner.
Thank you, I don't know, my channel exists already quite some time :) Glad you like it!
I only recently found and concur, binge watching the historic content. Much great work and quality projects undertaken, inspiring stuff, learnt loads.
Once you find a couple channels like this see if they have any recommended channels. Pretty soon you'll find a lot more like this. 😀
@@quakesin1982 Yes. I know and follow many similar channels. Yet once in a while there's one that's been escaping me forever like it was the case with this one three years ago.
i really like seeing this done on a board. nice to see it working after that battery decided to take a shit all over it.
I've done similar work on an old Sega Mega Play cartridge, and gave up when I accidentally lifted a trace. Seeing your repairwork kinda wants me to try and fix that cartridge now!
I like the suspense on the entire video. Besides I've learned a lot - vineger for the battery acid, jumper wires, restoring the tracks, remove corroded solder, restore broken IC leg.
Same mainboard - same problems - it has been cleaned but I never tried to fix it. Now it's time to try a rescue of this 286! Nice job!
Now i'm just falling down the hole into your channel. Great content man! Keep it up. I love all the retro computer stuff
This is amazing, I am stunned by your attention to detail and patience.
I hope one day I will learn from your videos how to become a master repairman like you :)
Thank you for sharing.
you have a lot patience I would have given up when i saw the battery lol
Wow, what an amazing feat to get that thing working. Its inspiring me to become better at soldering.
This had to be one looong repair. Much appreciated, I'm always looking for more repair videos of old/damaged motherboards. Thank you for the effort.
Thank you! I workded on and off on it, but I guess, it was like 10-12 Hours of work....
@@necro_ware Your videos are packed full of information, I already learned several new things since I started binge watching you channel today :) Keep it up and thank you!
I'm always amazed by the data retention time of these old bios eproms. I though they could get erased or corrupted after so many decades.
I caught your first video on Septandy, so now I am going back and seeing these. I have several old mainboards I have removed the Varta battery on, but have not had the guts to really attempt repairs on. I'm sure its not as easy as you make it look, but I will try to repair them now.
Greetings! It's not as complicated as you think. You need just a lot of patience and good tools :)
This inspires me to start repairing my 386 motherboard with leaky battery. It looks less damaged than this one so 🤞
Dude! That was a restauration and a half! Tinning those traces, what a great idea. Seen a lot of retro channels out there but you bring a few new things to the table. Now the criticism :P - the video is impressive but I miss a bit more of an explanation, maybe. You know? It would make a much longer video and this is probably not your main goal but I, who has a dozen of these boards in various states of disrepair here, I found myself asking: wait! why is he testing that, why does he know this, is it like that on every board?
Definitely subscribing though and looking forward to more videos.
Thank you very much! I appreciate also your critics very much and will try to explain more next time. Just as you've said, the video gets unfortunately very long if I explain too much, and I sometimes tend to, however I even cut out many explanations in the end again to get the whole thing shorter, because I think, nobody is interested in explanations :) That's why I ask for feedback, just to know, what people want to see on the channel. Thank you, once again!
Yeah I guess it's a matter of philosophy. Some people are probably more results-oriented and just want to see it all come together. I admit I am rather the Adrian Black school of viewer who want to understand stuff and follow you down the rabbit hole of troubleshooting.
I guess both approaches work.
Hope your channel grows, while I'll think of that 386 board with the microscopic SMD resistor/cap? that came right off together with it's pad after the vinegar treatment and that I will come back to once I reached your level of skill, haha if ever :)
Very helpful, I learnt a lot. Need to try it on a few non-functional mainboards I have. Many thanks!
I had a lot of fun with my 286 16 MHz with 0 wait states at that time. Although it was not as "multimedia" as my Amiga the CPU was much faster and the VGA performed very good with 3D games as well.
Very impressive repair. Got to keep our history alive and playing Wolfenstein 3D!
Thank you very much!
one of the unique chanell where i'm not skipping commercials
Congrats, really good skills repairing that damaged motherboard... I have five battery damaged motherboards and this video will be my inspiration and guide to recover as many as I can.
Well done! That was some heavy work.
Great diagnosis and repair. For future proofing, I'd change those tantalum caps by the power connector.
Yeah, I don't like tantalums either. They're extremely reliable.... Until they're not. Unlike electrolytics, which go high-resistance gradually, loosing capacitance, tantalums fail short-circuit, which can be rather... spectacular.
What’s wrong with you? I’ve been on your channel for days and can’t get enough of it!! Stop!!!!! Give me my life back 😂
Wah!! haven't seen 1mb of ram in a long time :D I'm so happy to see you fix this computer!! Maybe I'll look around for old PCs to fix since it looks fun to fill my hobby itches
You have miraculous hands, I assume you spent a lot of time over this motherboard. Great job as always
Thank you for your amazing videos!
Very interesting to see what is possible. Gives me a lot of anxiety though. I have many mainboards in storage which have those damnable barrel batteries. Haven't checked 'em in a while.
At least take the pliers and cut the damn batteries off the boards. If it's not already too late.
after watching your video, I went through and removed all my old mainboard batteries in storage making sure first there is a silkscreen + and - for a new battery. most also have a jumper and pins for an external battery as you probably know.
Damn good work. I need to learn how to use an o scope as well as you do.
Ich danke youtube für diesen Videovorschlag. Immer schön jemanden zu sehen, der so hervorragend Jumpercables legt und defekte Verbindungen findet. Hast einen neuen Abonnierer. Deine Aussprache ist ebenfalls top, aber wer bei Reichelt kauft, muss Deutsch sprechen. ;-)
Schön, dass es Dir gefallen hat und vielen Dank für den Lob. Und ja, Deine Einschätzung ist völlig richtig, ich spreche auch Deutsch, aber ebenfalls mit Akzent ;)
Thank you!
This was helpful! Nice job and well done!
Thank you! Glad, that I could help.
Super! Aber ne wahnsinnige Schufterei. Klasse Kanal! Hab ihn heute erst entdeckt und schau mir gerade nen Wolf. Topp! Danke für die tollen Videos.
Hehe :) Der Weg ist das Ziel. Freut mich, dass es gefällt. Viel Spaß!
Thanks
Great Job! I have many 286/386/486 boards with battery corrosion, which I want to restore... Just need a find a time for that)))
Wow your good with soldering good job
I had 80286 12 MHz + 1 mb mem + EGA. It ables me to run ms dos 6.22+win3.1 1mb of mem - awesome! Glue this wires.
There is something horrifying and deeply unsettling about that 40 column "CMOS INOPERATIONAL SYSTEM HALTED" message. If I'd seen that at 0200, I'd probably just implode.
Amazing work
Very appreciated!
Quite impressive! I wish I had the skill to repair mainboards.
With some practice it's not that hard :)
lol, just laughing now coz we use the same flow for repairing. Oh man.. you did really a good job on that board. amazing. I definitely had to subscribe your channel now. 😉
Haha! Indeed, just watched your video as well. Very nice! Subscribed :)
You deserve more subscribers
Fascinating
Klasse Arbeit!!! :)
Vielen Dank! Hat Spaß gemacht.
Great work, what kind of soap do you use?
Veery nice video!!
You have given me hope that I can fix my broken motherboards that I haven't given up on yet. I think I will definitely benefit from having one of those scope/analyser things you have. And what is the wire you used for trace replacement?
You don't necessary need an oscilloscope, very often you just can use a logic probe, as I showed in my April's repair marathon videos. As for the wires, in this video I was out of thin wires, so I used a thick wires from a telephone cable. I usually use 30 AWG wires for repair.
I suggest trying to clip the battery out, clean it as best you can, and only then start desoldering.
when you heat them they leak even more.
Cut the old battery out, run it through the dishwasher, blow out any remaining water with the air compressor and then start repair. The dishwasher run will help to better neutralize any remaining corrosive material. Edit: You did a great job.
Thank you. I know, that many people use a dishwasher, but I prefer the old fashioned way. Furthermore, if my wife will see me putting such "things" into the dishwasher I will need to search another home, I guess :D
All hail the bodge wire king lol
instead of removing the dislike button, google should enabled an option to give 10 likes for channels like this!
amazing work! Are u going to apply solder mask for the exposed traces or leave it as it is?
I tinned the traces, so I guess, it's ok not to apply additional solder mask. May be I'm wrong however :D
@@necro_ware You are right. There is no need to apply solder mask. In that case it will be only cosmetics.
nice fix, congratulations!. no solder mask? that will prevent future oxidation on the naked tracks
I could, but if you have solder on the traces, it is optional. Only bare copper traces need to be protected from oxidation and since I tinned everything, a solder mask is not necessary.
@@necro_ware true, my bad
what do you think of lacker (or nail polish) on the bare traces instead of tinning them? it does not need heating up the half-damaged traces. although it might be harder to remove if I need to touch those traces in the future.
Hi! Sometimes I use nail polish too, if I want to close some surface scratches on the mask layer. However, when the traces were half eaten away by acid, you never know how thick they are now. You also can't see micro cracks in the traces and they are very complicated to find. So, in such cases I prefer to tin them at least to regain the thickness.
Hi my friend! That mobo reborn! What a fantastic job. How many hours of effective work were converted in 14 minutes? 8 or 10?
Thank you! I didn't stop the time, but, yes, it was something around 10 hours, I guess. Unfortunately, it takes more time to make the video, than to repair a mainboard :D I'm still very inexperienced in that matter, but I'm trying hard to improve.
Dont know how much you read old posts but i have a 286 board that desnt post. Varta damage. Have done plenty of errors allready but tinned some traces and cleaned what i can find. Still no post. Swapped the the transistors near the battery, other one was dead but if some other clear points can be added i would be glad. What other components can go bad?
Would like to know the make/model of your oscilloscope - it looks a nice compact device - thanks
Its Fnirsi 5012H, but it's only good for up to 33MHz, despite, that it advertises 100MHz.
I've used different order:
First cut off the battery.
Then use vinegar.
Then you desolder stuff.
hey awesome clip...a qustion: can i become a image from your CF kart on the 286?...i have the same problems and i need a functionaly system in software. (i have all disks, because i dont have a func. diskdrive..🙂..sorry for my bad english, i wish a good springtime in `24 an d all best wishes from chemnitz...your KrautRockt!er from germany...
So this is a multi-layered PCB? In this case, I'm surprised that the keyboard data line (which you fixed at the end) was the only inner layer trace which was broken. Were multi-layer PCBs common for mainboards of that time? I wouldn't expect those before 386 mainboards...
i had same headland mobo but version with memory slots. No sucess 😞 leak battery maybe not big problem but there was broken bios and not recognizer more than 2MB RAM. With MR Bios all 4MB count after boot to DOS random hang. So my 286 project ended 😢
no clue necroware if you ever look and see old comments, but what are the thing you apply vinigar with? some pipette ? im on the look for similar.. if any see this and can confirm
Witzig. Genau so ein Board (originalverpackt und vermutlich ungenutzt) hab' ich letztens zufällig aus meinem Fundus gezogen, die Batterie gesehen und gleich mal runtergelötet. Ich glaube, ich teste das demnächst mal. So korrodiert wie Deins sah es nicht aus, aber die Batterie war ebenfalls undicht.
Na dann, drücke ich Dir die Daumen! Ist ein schönes Board, leider sieht meins jetzt wie ein Frankenstein aus.... Funktioniert aber :)
Люблю компактные платы
When you do these repairs with all those jumper wires, is there anything that you put on them so that they stay in place or are you just very careful with it any time you handle it?
Usually I put some nail varnish for protection.
Now it looks like a ti 99
Hi, I have the same mainboard. Can you tell me what kind of external battery you used? Voltage and the pinout of the battery connector? Thanks and keep up the good work!
Hi Tobias! You can use a CR2032 3V battery or just a pack of two normal AA batteries with 2x1.5V=3V. I don't have the mainboard at hand now, so I unfortuantely can't tell you the pinout, but its very easy to find out. The 4 pin header above the keyboard connector is for the external battery. One of the outter pins is ground and the other outer pin is +3V. The middle two pins are usually not connected. Anyway, you can checkout which one of the pins is ground by using a simple multimeter and measuring the resistence to the ground (f.e. metal around the mounting holes). The pin, where the resistence is around 0 is the ground pin. Good luck!
@@necro_ware Thank you so much for your complex answer, didn't expect so much help :-) Greatly appreciated! Your channel has excellent content, just subscribed. I hope your channel will get more attention soon, with such high quality content it's just a matter of time. All the best!
Is is possible to upgrade this 286 MB into 386 by just soldering a 386SX chip?
Nice repair. Could you make a BIOS dump from chips and share it? I have MB with similar chipset, but broken bios and couldn't find any suitable to make it alive again. Thank you
Hi there! Thank you. You can find the mainboard under the following link, where you can download 3 versions of BIOS (my version is with suffix -K8)
www.win3x.org/uh19/motherboard/show/6763
@@necro_ware Thank you very much for help, I'll try to use one of these BIOSes
@@necro_ware Now we can see why you put in the effort to fix it. Nice board.
would this motherboard be able to handle 2MB if the 30 pin SIMM sockets were present an filled with 4 256k SIMM's or more
Yes, you can insert up to 4MB of SIMM RAM. I'm using this board with 2x1MB modules, what is more, than enough for a 286.
I always wonder how much cadmium it is in that leaked electrolytic "acid" (and if it's legal to put that substance in the drain). Haven't dared to try fix my own damaged main boards yet.
There should be no cadmium in that electrolyte. Cadmium is used for the electrodes. The electrolyte is a base, nickel oxide hydroxide, to be precise. You shouldn't put any if that into the drain of course and the batteries have to be recycled properly. The spilled electrolyte (base) on the other hand I always neutralize with some acid (usually vinegar), which reaction results in salt and water. That is not dangerous, especially in that tiny amounts. I made a video about this topic once.
@@necro_ware Thank you for answering! But the electrodes are in contact and react chemically with that liquid base, right? How do we know really that (practically) no cadmium follows it out when it is leaking?
I have absolutely no idea about the doses that would expose us to though, or how it would compare to (say) old red/yellow plastic, yellow sheet metal, smoking, mushrooms, or other cadmium sources.
Pretty hard to find much about it on the internet too :(
Nice video. How many years you think this mainboard will continue working after this fix?
:D It's a good question. I mean it is a very old hardware, which was heavily damaged. Regarding corrosion, I tried my best and left vinegar working a little bit longer, so it should have got into every hole and hopefully neutralized the electrolyte properly. If so, and corrosion was stopped, it should work as long as it would without any corrosion at all. I repaired this board about 10 months ago and it is still absolutely working. Just used it yesterday for some experiments.
I saw a lot of people trying the same without neutralizing the electrolyte. In such cases as soon as they turn on the mainboard, the chemical reaction will be accelerated by the electrical current and the board dies within a month, or even less, dependent from the damage.
@@necro_ware I am not an expert on this but I assume it is a good idea to let the vinegar dry before you turn the thing on again, and that should help avoid electrolysis?. But again I am not an expert. I didn't know that vinegar does such a job. These boards remind me the time I was young, that is why I watch these videos. I would also like to watch pimped systems, that is systems from that era that use some modern hardware and hacks that make them extra fast. This is fun.
If you are interested, you can watch one of my previous videos, where I explain why and how the vinegar has to be used for restoration. ruclips.net/video/sVxqLBp6l1c/видео.html
In regards of pimped systems. I do sometimes nice builds and I already have some nice videos about that. But I rarely overclock or torture the systems in other ways. This retro parts are meanwhile very rare, expensive and fragile due to their age. I do like that oldies too much you know :D But feel free to watch my "let's build" videos, may be you like them as well...
Why would you burn the board with winegar which is corrosive?
ruclips.net/video/sVxqLBp6l1c/видео.html
Lots of wire bodging.
I say well done reviving this 286 but aesthetically is not good looking.
I also have a 286 Harris with a 20 mhz cpu but it's not showing signs of life.
Another that I have (AMD 286 16 MHZ) beeps 6 times (short pauses) with a speaker attached but no video output.
There's no damage from the battery (no signs of corrosion), no static ram nor sipp modules installed (came with sipp instead of simm).
How do I troubleshoot it?
You should have more subs.
hi! do you mean this vinegar en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vinegar? but how this work? copper yet oxidized - and we use acid another one
and how strong vinegar you use? 7%(vinegar acid) or 70%(vinegar essencion)?
I'm glad you asked ;) ruclips.net/video/sVxqLBp6l1c/видео.html
@@necro_ware thanks. but i'm not quite sure what i can buy in Russia exactly white vinegar but we can buy vinegar 70% or vinegar 7% - which is right percentage for repair?
I'm using 10-15% vinegar. Exact number is not important, just don't go to much over 15%. You can also use pure lemon juice, it doesn't smell as bad as white vinegar ;) And always wash the board properly with clean water and put it into a dry warm place for 24 hours afterwards before you turn it on.
EDIT: если что, я говорю по русски тоже и если что-то совсем не понятно, с радостью помогу.
@@necro_ware oh, many thanks!
what is gloss fiber pencil?
Glass fiber
Instead of viniger you can try with citric acid
Yes, you can take any weak acid. I made a full video just on that topic: ruclips.net/video/sVxqLBp6l1c/видео.html
What oscilloscope were you using?
It's a cheap device, which is not 100% as good as it claims. It says, that it can measure up to 100MHz, but in real you get reliable values for up to around 35MHz. However, this is absolutely sufficient for repairing retro hardware with FSB of up to 33MHz. And if you don't care about exact voltage, but only about the signal shape, you can go for up to 100MHz as well. In the end, it is super compact, works from a rechargeable battery, very cheap and does, what I need in the range of my interest. See:
de.aliexpress.com/item/33021370646.html?aff_platform=link-c-tool&sk=Lirr17DW&aff_trace_key=0d3f7da30af94d5b920aa43b4af80d10-1602228886792-00608-Lirr17DW&terminal_id=5e23f645d07d42e78df79d2b610bc10e&tmLog=new_Detail
nice massacre :)
Hab ich gerade gesehen der erste Deutscher der Wolfenstein spielt? ;)
barbaric way to remove solder ... but i am impressed the way yo do it ...
This is the exact problem, if you get electrolyte on the solder, it reacts and gets heavily oxidized. This oxide goes very deep and doesn't melt at usual soldering temperatures anymore and if you go too high, you'll burn the PCB. You also can't get fresh solder to the joints, because it doesn't stick on the oxide. Ever tried to get solder on aluminium? It's similar result. So, you have to get through the oxide somehow and if it's too late and it got into the holes, there is just a little chance to desolder something without damaging the pads or traces.
This is really good !
You have many techniques I didn't think of when I attempted to fix my deeply corroded board (which ended up being failures :( ) Maybe I'll give them another go.
Meanwhile, UH19 have been released here : www.win3x.org/uh19/ ^^ (I haven't found this board unfortunately)
Don't forget to come see us back, we have some great news and we're about to start to work on expansion cards and other things.
Hi Deksor! I know, I'm following your progress daily, I'm just a little bit busy with some other stuff currently, that's why you don't see me on the forum lately. But still, I'm there and I'm looking forward for the expansion cards database!
i'm the 486 like :D
0:09 16Mhz Intel AMD CPU
Yes, my fault.
@@necro_ware nah, just pointing it out as a joke. Well done on that repair, I tried on a 386 of my own with similar damage, could not resurrect it at all. It just stayed dead, no beeps, no nothing.
🤣🤣