God Hand clippers: there’s something very specific that’s driving that high price, and it’s important to understand what you are paying for. They are designed for clipping coloured plastic Mecha models e.g. Gundam from Bandai. You can clip close to the part without spraining the plastic (making the cut go white) and discolouring the part so it can be assembled and finished without painting e.g. panel lining. On anything that’s getting painted this functionality is wasted and their relative fragility is a liability. As you deduced, something at the quality/ price of the AK clippers are all you need for models that will be painted (plus a knife and needle file). Interesting video, thanks 👍
Id say the functionality is not wasted. They are great because they are more skinny at the tip and more easy / less cleaning to do as its a cleaner cut. Very expensive though.
To me, those god hand clippers are a vanity purchase, which is FINE. A lot of vanity purchases are made in the hobby, arguably it ALL is (Because really, we're buying advanced, pretty dolls :D...) But even in the high goal of making a miniature look as real as possible, if one is most about taking care, then clipping a miniature always takes care and cleanup, and an extra $40 for feels (going by this review) is really better spent on something else, to me at least.
@@KelRiever lol you responded and totally missed the point. Godhand and Dispiae are both precision tools. Maybe you just like tabletop standards if so then by your post above you shouldn't be buying any brushes that are not golden tacklon. Godhand and Dispiae are the premium sable brush of clippers. Sure there are other ways of doing the same job cheaper there always is, but you missed the entire point of the op's post. I mean sure your comment would be fine on its own but not as a response to someone that actually explained why these tools exist in which you didn't address in the slightest.
Put a non-rusting agitator into your paint and vortex mixers are absolutely the best. They don’t fling paint, and I don’t have to clean anything after using it (and waste all the paint stuck to the blade of the pigment mixer).
As someone working in a Lab: the vortex mixers you can buy online are quite... Subpar let's say. I have one myself, but I'm absolutely not a fan. I'll try to get my hands on a used lab vortex, when I have the chance.
ive defo notcied that it works best with smaller pots of thinner paint like dropper botles and you need an agitaitor. but yeh its not life changing@@miguelengelhardt4687
@@miguelengelhardt4687 I used to work in many labs (chem engineer), and I made sure to buy a lab-grade one. Not super expensive, but reassuring in use. Getting a used one from a lab would be the best.
The vortex mixer works much better with citadel pots if you drop 1 or 2 small ball bearings in the pot. Even helps with the wrist shaking method too, and the clatter of metal inside makes it much more enjoyable
I know I am late to this but my vortex mixer is one of my favorite time saving tools. I drop a ball bearing in the bottles and they are thoroughly mixed, typically in less than 15 seconds easily. The paint they were mixing looked surprisingly dry and if you have clumps and no agitators it is not going to mix well by any means.
I use a DISPAI clipper which is very similar to the Godhands but a little cheaper. Because the single actual blade is a little fragile I use regular clippers to cut a part off with part of the plastic gate still attached and then use the good clipper to cut cleanly right up against the part. That way you’re not forced to cut at weird angles due to the sprue being in the way and avoid stress on the blade.
My wowstick also makes magnetising weapon options a real joy. I also haven't needed to charge it once despite drilling 100s of holes, so it may also solve the cost of energy crisis. Which is nice..
i have learned from model builders that you never go directly at the model with the clipper but always at a distance and then continue with the craft knife or scalpel. The best Vortex mixer comes from FOUR E'S SCIENTIFIC, yes they are quite expensive but have the power to mix up even gw colors when there is a bullet in it.
I have found with Pistol Grip air brushes, you should use a shorter chair or taller desk and rest your elbows on the table so that the work naturally lands in a natural sight line down the air brush
I Kickstarted the Wowstick drill, and loved it while it worked... I primarily used it to drill out holes in Tiny Whoop(drone) propellers going from .8mm to 1mm; ocasionally I would use it to drill out holes in 3D prints, but again just making minor size adjustments never making actual holes. Again it worked great, but after about a year and a half I could tell I was missing a couple teeth on one or more of the internal gears. It would get stuck from time to time, but would pretty quickly work itself out. Another 6 months and it gave it up all together. I assume it has plastic gears, and if it binds up it can easily snap some of the teeth.
You really benefit by having an agitator in conjunction with a vortex mixer. I recommend buying a bag of hematite beads for making jewelry. Hematite is inert and will not affect the paint at all.
I've got 2 resin printers. The reason I have them is I paint fantasy minis and it was cheaper to buy STL files and print them than buying retail plus the quality is so much better and there's no mold lines to clean off. There is a lot of 40k related items out there that you can print and I've seen people take a box of marines and print extra parts to get 30 out of a box.
I would add if you don't have a lot of practice with a traditional airbrush, the pistol grip may be a better way to go. I think with the same amount of time on each, the pistol grip will be more comfortable in the end.. it also won't let you dispense paint without air.. which some dual action airbrushes may let you do.
One of the early techniques folks in the gunpla community told me (stressed to me :) ) regarding what you showed at 2:40 , was to always snip further away from the part, and then shave the sprue nub with a knife. Those Godhand (SP-120 in particular, they make another variety), are "special" in that only one side is bladed (so orientation of hold/cut is necessary, I believe). Folks that I've met doing Gunpla will continue to do those techniques with 2 sets of nippers. One for the further cut, and then Godhand for the close cut afterward. I imagine differences in plastic material and sprue attachment location for those kits versus GW also end up not making this a totally easy 1:1 transition. Great video, folks! Thanks!
Great video ❤ I always think it's a good idea to showcase the cheaper or hand made items and the more expensive boutique items. The hobby for me should be open to more people and be budget friendly. I'm not completely knocking the boutique stuff, but I grew up with the hobby making stuff for myself and that's been my mentality with making my own videos.
The citadel set of clippers aren’t supposed to be used right up to the plastic when clipping…. The blades are offset (as Tom mentioned) Squeeze the clippers together and look at the “flat” side (under neath)
I think they’ve also changed the geometry at some point as they were specifically designed to not cut into the underlying model even when flush to the surface. (Tom). They were also deliberately meant to be ‘premium’ under instruction from senior management so you ended up paying extra for the fancy metal construction.
Hey! I have that same vortex mixer! My wrists sent me flowers when I bought it. Yes, they don't mix citadel pots tooooo well. But my dropper bottles have never been mixed better.
I really couldn't disagree more on the vortex mixer. I've got one I wouldn't be without it. It's taken bottles of Scale75 paint from being entirely separated, thick pigment in the bottom and transparent medium in the top, to well mixed in around 15 seconds. Putting a pot on for 2 minutes to me sounds like extreme overkill, and you likely actually caused separation of the paint due to the density differences in the pigments and mediums. I dare say if you tried it again, and mixed for 5/10 seconds and then give a quick shake, maybe repeat if not quite mixed, you'd have the paint thoroughly mixed.
Definitely wouldn't suggest GodHand SPN-120s for GW kits, the gate placement and sizes are all at or over the maximum tolerance they are meant to cut. Some of the other models which are more affordable are perfectly fine for this purpose as. The SPN-120s displayed here are best as a second cut nipper on model kits that are designed with small gates on the runner.
7:09 : .... i won't do any inuendo i promise ^^ ! But on a usefull note, dont shake pots just roll them between your hands... Juste like an handmade cuban cigar ! xD N.B : easier to do with droper bottles.
I've been using a vortex mixer for about a year and I love it. I heard from others that the cheap ones just don't get the job done. And everyone I've seen/heard raving about one has the more expensive one I also have. I barely have the paints on there for 15 seconds. That's usually enough to shake my dropper bottles. If I have one that's a bit more chunky/clogged I might do 1 minute there but that's about it.
@@thepaintingphase yes. Mine was I think about 100€. I love it every time I use it. But it is a bit unnecessary. But I think like the godhands it's more about convenience rather than pure efficiency
The downside of GW upgrade sprues and transfers is they aren't always available, and they really should be. However, I would be inclined to use both GW and other upgrades to make the different squads or units stand out from each other.
@@thepaintingphase I guess I was referring to how I rarely see them in stores over the years. I could be wrong, but I bought around 12 sets of Imperial Fist upgrades in fear of not being able to buy them later (like the Worldeaters metal shoulderpads that don't look like a tie pattern).
Vortex mixers, for the cost, in my experience don't last very long and don't shake the paints well enough to justify the cost. On the other hand, I bought one that was off brand, and then it becamse popular so the price went up 300%. But when i bought it it broke after a year. So, it's not worth it. Next one I bought, same issue broke within a year. Next time I'm going to get one of thos cheap battery operated stick mixers. From reviews they seem to produce superior results, and the negatives aren't worse than having an over priced vortex mixer that doesn't quite do the job.
Couldn't you just get a decent pair of precision electronics clippers for about twice the price of the AK ones that will do as good a job as the God hand ones for 5x as long (as they're designed to cut metal rather than plastic)?
a pigment mixer is not needed at all, you can bend a 2.5 or 3 mm wire as needed and stir the paint with an electric drill. why pay for this device if everyone who is engaged in this hobby has a drill
I honestly think the vortex mixer is a must if you use contrast/speed paint/etc. it’s the only thing that can get those stubborn pigments that settle in the bottom to properly mix again.
I'd also suggest to splurge for a decent one too, as they drop in quality significantly at lower price points. Eons of Battle recently did a video that mentioned that specifically
Just for context, God Hand and DSPAIE clippers are quick to degrade in quality due to their blades being designed to clip through softer plastic like Gunpla. Still much better than the average pair of clippers though, even when somewhat less sharp after a few months of use. Imo, DSPIAE Clippers are better just because they’re only £35 a set compared to the absurd prices of god hand clippers. I’ve been using my pair for about 6 months now, and although they’re definitely not in the ‘there’s literally no sound made as you use them because they slice through plastic like butter’ stage, they’re still 100x better than citadel clippers. Considering the current citadel clippers are £30, I’d say it’s a great deal!
I would hard disagree personally for the mixers. The pigment mixer is an annoying step for me. Vortex mixer is king. Troublesome bottles I put an agitator in the bottle. Also I get RSI in my hands so keeping hand work down to a minimum is important. Although using a vortex mixer too much can cause it’s own physical issues.
Geoff just about holding it together when he said "my hand? It's been doing the job for a long time" absolutely creased me 🤣 Great video though, I'm with you on 3D printer stuff though. One of the major issues I have with resin models is sometimes the sheer level of detail puts me off painting it. I'll print it and then put off doing anything with it because I know how difficult getting every detail right will be.
The blue god hand is actually not for cutting pieces off runners. it'll break really quickly. it was made to cut nubs off gundam parts, flush and without stretching the plastic. because gundam plastic models comes in colored runners so you don't have to paint them and out of the box builds are rather popular. They'll serve better and longer as clean up nippers than to cut parts off sprue.
The problem with those "off-brand" vortex mixers is that is basically just good luck whether or not you get a dud. They are made in some Chinese factory with whatever electronics they need to use up. There is a 50/50 chance they can handle the torque or burn out. How fast they move...depends on what motor is in there. If you buy an actual lab-grade mixer like the FourE built to spec and it's a world of difference. They are more expensive, but if you have shoulder issues or just want the quality of life improvement they worth it. The real difference here is probably between painting an army or characters/display pieces. If you paint assembly line style you mix one paint and use it on 10 models. You do that a couple of times and that is your painting session. You paint a bunch of individual characters or display pieces you'll be pulling a lot of different paints off your rack to mix all the tones you want. I would also strongly recommend using a needle pin instead of a knife for your pilot holes. The idea is to prevent slippage, but a knife gives you a slit, not a hole so you can still drill off-center. If the drill bits are not deep enough in the chuck you get the wobble. Could be a user issue there, but another thing you need to keep in mind with rotary tools is the speed. So for anyone thinking about getting one look for something with lower numbers and a variable speed dial. You can melt plastic if you use too much speed. Absolutely worth it for converters though. You can do a lot more than just dill holes with them.
On the panel liner, if I want to be more precise than the brush that comes with it, I'll use a fountain pen. Also, if you use an acrylic gloss coat before the panel liner, you can use mineral spirits and a swab to clean up the panel liner without messing up your acrylic paints.
RE: Upgrade kits, I’ve switched to just giving the Sergeant/Pack leader and Elites the full work up with bits. Otherwise you spend all your days painting pelts and trinkets in addition to the armour.
i had a wow stick (the drill) brought for me as a gift and OMG its amazing!!!!, but like you say in the video is it worth the price tag probably not but hey as it was a gift then i dont have to worry right, lol!!!
A proper vortex mixer is an investment. It's not something I would recommend for a beginner. It's not a must-have, but if you're invested in the hobby it's a HUGE nice-to-have item. But don't buy the cheap ones, they are dogsh*t.
Have you lot emailed Army Painter yet to try and get your hands on the new full fanatic range? Would be cool to do a video of AK 3rd gen vs fanatic warpaints. HINT PATRICK
I've been using the same tamiya clips for coming on 5-6 years now. They've held up really well. Tamiya is the king of gimmicky hobby products though, have a look through their catalog.
Vortex mixers are best luxury product. They aren’t necessary but they work so nicely. The one in the video looks a bit naff but if you’re willing to spend on a good one it’ll blitz anything in seconds.
That's not what God Hands are for. Use regular snips to cut the parts from sprues, then use the god hands on the nubs to trim the few mm of plastic from the part. Used correctly, God Hands are durable, precision tools. Mine have been going strong for 3 years now, and they work just as well on resin.
As others have stated, God Hand clippers have a very specific use. You can use them for other purposes, but if mustreated you'll break the blades. You should use other clippers to clip through large parts of spru, then use the side cutters to trim closer to the models without stressing the plastic and whitening it. They're often overkill for wargaming models and anything that will be painted
Geoff..... Have you tried using a child toothbrush (soft bristles) and Denture cleaning toothbrush (stiff bristles), might do the same as that AK tool and still be a little cheaper 😊
When drilling, I would try to stabilize the mini, the drill, or both. Don't have both in-hand. Plenty of ways to stick them into desks, holders, vises, clips, helping hands or such.
Great round up of products and their uses! I would say with paint mixers steel bearing agitator balls are worth a mention, they're not without flaw, they can go rusty over time and discolour the paint depending on the paint mix, but they massively help with using a paint sHaker or the ol' Mk1 hand. Really helpful video guys, good stuff!
Whoever created the thumbnail for this episode did a bang-up job. My wife saw the AK paint splatter tool, asked "What on earth is that?" and so we had to watch.
Tamiya gives you the comfort of GodHand and the double-blade cut of Citadel/AK for less than Citadel (at least here in N.America). If you're not fussy, you can just by a set of cutters from your local DIY shop for less than Citadel.
Never used the God Hand clippers but I can recommend the TAMIYA 300074093 plastic side cutters for around £13. Far better than the GW snips. I have two pairs that I've been using for around 5 years now and they have held up wonderfully. In regards to the Wow stick, I also have one and it's utility goes far beyond just drilling barrels. It's great for pinning metal and plastic minis because the bits were designed for customising PCB's. As someone who suffers with arthritis in my hands it's a total game changer. Since getting the Wowstick I haven't slipped and embedded a drill bit in the bones of my left index finger once. That alone is worth the extra £40 over a traditional pin drill.
@@GoastLincoln indeed, there is a reason thay their brand has been synonymous with quality scale modelling products around the world for the last 60 odd years.
I like you guys. In the interest of your own health and safety, PLEASE consider airbrushing with a respirator and well ventilated work area, maybe an airbrush 'booth' with ducting to a window. Keep up the great work!
If you're using any Scale 75 paints (normal or Fantasy & Games set) then vortex mixer might be worth it. They're manufactured with gel medium and this thing is hell of a work to properly mix in any other way. Even minute of really strong shaking may not be enough to get the paint together and if gel is visibly separated from pigment - you're done. Vortex can fix even that. WIth most other companies (GW, AK Interactive, Vallejo, etc.) you don't really need it as shaking or pigment mixer will work fine, but Scale 75 is another matter entirely.
I went from cheap game workshop and Amazon clippers to tamiya diagonal clippers which are £25. Holy poo they they are so good and feel even better to cut, I can cut really close to the model with no issues and it's hard to describe but the feeling you get is next to none
Definitely a big fan of the vortex mixer, but with stainless agitators added (AK makes some, and mine have always been rust-free when I take them out after the paint pot runs out).
Thank you, I didn't realise airbrushes with pistol grpis and triggers existed until I saw your video. I have limited mobility in my hands and this is exactly what I've been looking for!
Little trick I learned from making Gunplas. Use the cheaper clippers to remove the model from the spurs, leaving a bit attached to the model. Then go for a closer cut with the godhands. Cleaner cuts with more control and less stress on the godhands.
You need to use vortex mixer with paint head down for citadel paints, as that plastic "nail" will work like mixer paddle. I have one, and it is amazing.
The box for the wowstick is good for storing paperclips for pinning needs in. Also, that Amazon special drill, that metallic button should stop the bit spinning. Or the one I bought does. That said, I still wouldn't use it on miniatures any more either. The wowstick is just better. Also, for mixers, there is also a nail polish shaker that works pretty well, but it is loud.
Not on mine unfortunately, that's the release for the drill bit. Makes horrible noises when you press it when the drill is on. Wowstick is absolutely better!
@@thepaintingphase how weird. Yeah mine acts like a clutch. The motor still spins and whines, but you can at least position it where it needs to be. As an edge use case though, mine did come with small file tips, which make light work of plastic, so is great for weathering/damaging/destroying terrain and armour.
I use three pairs of clippers. Old rattling GW clippers for beater work, xurons for general part removal, and DSPIAE for precoloured japanese kits like gunpla. Honestly i believe a 15-20 pair of Xurons should be everyones goto for general use, using these gunpla clippers on anything you're going to scrape mold lines and apply paint is way overkill 😊
I bought that vortex mixer and it's quite decent (plus on sale atm) It works better for dropper bottles than GW paints. Just like you said. Still good!
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If your not careful Pat you will have companies knocking at the door for you to sell their products, very professional.
@@peterlittle6651maybe I'll quit Warhammer and sell windows or something
@@thepaintingphase aliexpress sell 'wowsticks' for about £12 certainly wouldnt pay 50+ for one
God Hand clippers: there’s something very specific that’s driving that high price, and it’s important to understand what you are paying for. They are designed for clipping coloured plastic Mecha models e.g. Gundam from Bandai. You can clip close to the part without spraining the plastic (making the cut go white) and discolouring the part so it can be assembled and finished without painting e.g. panel lining.
On anything that’s getting painted this functionality is wasted and their relative fragility is a liability. As you deduced, something at the quality/ price of the AK clippers are all you need for models that will be painted (plus a knife and needle file).
Interesting video, thanks 👍
Very well put!
This guy gets it. Damn good explanation.
Id say the functionality is not wasted. They are great because they are more skinny at the tip and more easy / less cleaning to do as its a cleaner cut. Very expensive though.
To me, those god hand clippers are a vanity purchase, which is FINE. A lot of vanity purchases are made in the hobby, arguably it ALL is (Because really, we're buying advanced, pretty dolls :D...) But even in the high goal of making a miniature look as real as possible, if one is most about taking care, then clipping a miniature always takes care and cleanup, and an extra $40 for feels (going by this review) is really better spent on something else, to me at least.
@@KelRiever lol you responded and totally missed the point. Godhand and Dispiae are both precision tools. Maybe you just like tabletop standards if so then by your post above you shouldn't be buying any brushes that are not golden tacklon. Godhand and Dispiae are the premium sable brush of clippers. Sure there are other ways of doing the same job cheaper there always is, but you missed the entire point of the op's post. I mean sure your comment would be fine on its own but not as a response to someone that actually explained why these tools exist in which you didn't address in the slightest.
Put a non-rusting agitator into your paint and vortex mixers are absolutely the best. They don’t fling paint, and I don’t have to clean anything after using it (and waste all the paint stuck to the blade of the pigment mixer).
Yeh they don't do much without them
As someone working in a Lab: the vortex mixers you can buy online are quite... Subpar let's say. I have one myself, but I'm absolutely not a fan. I'll try to get my hands on a used lab vortex, when I have the chance.
ive defo notcied that it works best with smaller pots of thinner paint like dropper botles and you need an agitaitor. but yeh its not life changing@@miguelengelhardt4687
@@miguelengelhardt4687 I used to work in many labs (chem engineer), and I made sure to buy a lab-grade one. Not super expensive, but reassuring in use. Getting a used one from a lab would be the best.
The vortex mixer works much better with citadel pots if you drop 1 or 2 small ball bearings in the pot. Even helps with the wrist shaking method too, and the clatter of metal inside makes it much more enjoyable
I dunno mate. I have used one with my Vallejo paints with mixer balls in them and the vortex mixer still seems to suck and do almost nothing at all.
I know I am late to this but my vortex mixer is one of my favorite time saving tools. I drop a ball bearing in the bottles and they are thoroughly mixed, typically in less than 15 seconds easily. The paint they were mixing looked surprisingly dry and if you have clumps and no agitators it is not going to mix well by any means.
I love my Wow Stick! I use the Wavy Top of the Box for Brush Storage, imo worth the Price.
That's a good shout!
I use a DISPAI clipper which is very similar to the Godhands but a little cheaper. Because the single actual blade is a little fragile I use regular clippers to cut a part off with part of the plastic gate still attached and then use the good clipper to cut cleanly right up against the part. That way you’re not forced to cut at weird angles due to the sprue being in the way and avoid stress on the blade.
That sounds like sensible advice! I'll try it out
This. The single blade nippers are meant for the flat side to slight overhang the part so the single blade cuts flush against the plastic.
My wowstick also makes magnetising weapon options a real joy. I also haven't needed to charge it once despite drilling 100s of holes, so it may also solve the cost of energy crisis. Which is nice..
The wowstick is a GODSEND for kitbashers and people who work with resin and metal models as it makes pinning a breeze.
Interesting, do you know where I can buy Geoff’s arm?
You'd have to have a word and agree to a price I think
i have learned from model builders that you never go directly at the model with the clipper but always at a distance and then continue with the craft knife or scalpel.
The best Vortex mixer comes from FOUR E'S SCIENTIFIC, yes they are quite expensive but have the power to mix up even gw colors when there is a bullet in it.
I have found with Pistol Grip air brushes, you should use a shorter chair or taller desk and rest your elbows on the table so that the work naturally lands in a natural sight line down the air brush
I Kickstarted the Wowstick drill, and loved it while it worked... I primarily used it to drill out holes in Tiny Whoop(drone) propellers going from .8mm to 1mm; ocasionally I would use it to drill out holes in 3D prints, but again just making minor size adjustments never making actual holes. Again it worked great, but after about a year and a half I could tell I was missing a couple teeth on one or more of the internal gears. It would get stuck from time to time, but would pretty quickly work itself out. Another 6 months and it gave it up all together. I assume it has plastic gears, and if it binds up it can easily snap some of the teeth.
I think you can adjust the spring tension on the AK snips with the set screw.
Furiously looks for screwdriver 🪛
Wow thanks!
There's so many features on tools we forget about!
You really benefit by having an agitator in conjunction with a vortex mixer. I recommend buying a bag of hematite beads for making jewelry. Hematite is inert and will not affect the paint at all.
I've got 2 resin printers. The reason I have them is I paint fantasy minis and it was cheaper to buy STL files and print them than buying retail plus the quality is so much better and there's no mold lines to clean off. There is a lot of 40k related items out there that you can print and I've seen people take a box of marines and print extra parts to get 30 out of a box.
I would add if you don't have a lot of practice with a traditional airbrush, the pistol grip may be a better way to go. I think with the same amount of time on each, the pistol grip will be more comfortable in the end.. it also won't let you dispense paint without air.. which some dual action airbrushes may let you do.
One of the early techniques folks in the gunpla community told me (stressed to me :) ) regarding what you showed at 2:40 , was to always snip further away from the part, and then shave the sprue nub with a knife. Those Godhand (SP-120 in particular, they make another variety), are "special" in that only one side is bladed (so orientation of hold/cut is necessary, I believe). Folks that I've met doing Gunpla will continue to do those techniques with 2 sets of nippers. One for the further cut, and then Godhand for the close cut afterward.
I imagine differences in plastic material and sprue attachment location for those kits versus GW also end up not making this a totally easy 1:1 transition. Great video, folks! Thanks!
Great video ❤ I always think it's a good idea to showcase the cheaper or hand made items and the more expensive boutique items. The hobby for me should be open to more people and be budget friendly. I'm not completely knocking the boutique stuff, but I grew up with the hobby making stuff for myself and that's been my mentality with making my own videos.
The citadel set of clippers aren’t supposed to be used right up to the plastic when clipping…. The blades are offset (as Tom mentioned)
Squeeze the clippers together and look at the “flat” side (under neath)
I think they’ve also changed the geometry at some point as they were specifically designed to not cut into the underlying model even when flush to the surface. (Tom). They were also deliberately meant to be ‘premium’ under instruction from senior management so you ended up paying extra for the fancy metal construction.
Hey! I have that same vortex mixer! My wrists sent me flowers when I bought it. Yes, they don't mix citadel pots tooooo well. But my dropper bottles have never been mixed better.
Try shaking scale 75, you need a vortex mixer for scale 75 because the gel medium is so thick
I really couldn't disagree more on the vortex mixer. I've got one I wouldn't be without it. It's taken bottles of Scale75 paint from being entirely separated, thick pigment in the bottom and transparent medium in the top, to well mixed in around 15 seconds.
Putting a pot on for 2 minutes to me sounds like extreme overkill, and you likely actually caused separation of the paint due to the density differences in the pigments and mediums.
I dare say if you tried it again, and mixed for 5/10 seconds and then give a quick shake, maybe repeat if not quite mixed, you'd have the paint thoroughly mixed.
thanks for the vid! have you ever thought of 3dprinting a pistol grip for your other airbrush?
The pistol grip brush makes sense on cars. Very large surfaces
Definitely wouldn't suggest GodHand SPN-120s for GW kits, the gate placement and sizes are all at or over the maximum tolerance they are meant to cut. Some of the other models which are more affordable are perfectly fine for this purpose as. The SPN-120s displayed here are best as a second cut nipper on model kits that are designed with small gates on the runner.
I was really worrying for Patrick’s fingers during the barrel drilling test
Absolutely, that Amazon drill was a beast, didn't enjoy using it at all!
7:09 : .... i won't do any inuendo i promise ^^ ! But on a usefull note, dont shake pots just roll them between your hands... Juste like an handmade cuban cigar ! xD N.B : easier to do with droper bottles.
I've been using a vortex mixer for about a year and I love it. I heard from others that the cheap ones just don't get the job done. And everyone I've seen/heard raving about one has the more expensive one I also have. I barely have the paints on there for 15 seconds. That's usually enough to shake my dropper bottles. If I have one that's a bit more chunky/clogged I might do 1 minute there but that's about it.
The really good ones get pricey don't they? Around £100 or something?
@@thepaintingphase yes. Mine was I think about 100€.
I love it every time I use it. But it is a bit unnecessary. But I think like the godhands it's more about convenience rather than pure efficiency
Use a nail polish mixer (the must have before vortex mixers became a thing) - cheaper and works well with a mixer ball
... can you chekc "Medical vortex mixer" vs "tattoo ink mixer" (which you have) vs "punch gun sports massager" as a mixer?
Dammit. Jeff wrists are all sold out on Amazon. Bought a cheap knockoff on Alibaba instead.
That's a lol from me!
Have you tried the Clippers from Tamya? about 30 euros, and the quality of the God's Hand
The downside of GW upgrade sprues and transfers is they aren't always available, and they really should be. However, I would be inclined to use both GW and other upgrades to make the different squads or units stand out from each other.
Maybe not always available, but GW could alternate which chapter of those items is sold on their webstore each month.
I wasn't aware they weren't available all the time. Do you think the Templar sprue will go off sale at some stage?
@@thepaintingphase I guess I was referring to how I rarely see them in stores over the years. I could be wrong, but I bought around 12 sets of Imperial Fist upgrades in fear of not being able to buy them later (like the Worldeaters metal shoulderpads that don't look like a tie pattern).
Vortex mixers, for the cost, in my experience don't last very long and don't shake the paints well enough to justify the cost. On the other hand, I bought one that was off brand, and then it becamse popular so the price went up 300%. But when i bought it it broke after a year. So, it's not worth it. Next one I bought, same issue broke within a year.
Next time I'm going to get one of thos cheap battery operated stick mixers. From reviews they seem to produce superior results, and the negatives aren't worse than having an over priced vortex mixer that doesn't quite do the job.
Couldn't you just get a decent pair of precision electronics clippers for about twice the price of the AK ones that will do as good a job as the God hand ones for 5x as long (as they're designed to cut metal rather than plastic)?
godhands have a 3mm cut limit, ask me how i know
Great video chaps, I had a pair of godhand snips & the blade snapped in 6 months, so I’d say treat gently
Good to know! A few folks have said similar stuff. Might stick to the cheap ones I don't care about breaking!
a pigment mixer is not needed at all, you can bend a 2.5 or 3 mm wire as needed and stir the paint with an electric drill. why pay for this device if everyone who is engaged in this hobby has a drill
30 min biased AK Interactive AD but 🤫nobody noticed
I'll stick with my Tamiya clippers. Haven't had any issues & they cut like a champ
I honestly think the vortex mixer is a must if you use contrast/speed paint/etc. it’s the only thing that can get those stubborn pigments that settle in the bottom to properly mix again.
Scale 75 too, those paints are pretty much useless without one
I'd also suggest to splurge for a decent one too, as they drop in quality significantly at lower price points. Eons of Battle recently did a video that mentioned that specifically
Just keep them in a box on top of the washing machine.
Just need to add an agitator to the paint. A small bit of sprue or two works fine.
Just for context, God Hand and DSPAIE clippers are quick to degrade in quality due to their blades being designed to clip through softer plastic like Gunpla. Still much better than the average pair of clippers though, even when somewhat less sharp after a few months of use.
Imo, DSPIAE Clippers are better just because they’re only £35 a set compared to the absurd prices of god hand clippers. I’ve been using my pair for about 6 months now, and although they’re definitely not in the ‘there’s literally no sound made as you use them because they slice through plastic like butter’ stage, they’re still 100x better than citadel clippers. Considering the current citadel clippers are £30, I’d say it’s a great deal!
Interesting, thanks for clarifying!
Godhand or bust.
good to know! Godhand are very much purpose built and think for warhammer/crafting you need at least one pair of clippers that can do it all.
I only use my god hands for the finer sprue feeds, I use my god awful AP clippers for thicker bits of sprue. Still love my god hands.
Tamiya snips are better imo
I would hard disagree personally for the mixers. The pigment mixer is an annoying step for me. Vortex mixer is king. Troublesome bottles I put an agitator in the bottle. Also I get RSI in my hands so keeping hand work down to a minimum is important. Although using a vortex mixer too much can cause it’s own physical issues.
I didn’t realise how much I needed Geoff in non-sidetracked videos until watching this.
Geoff just about holding it together when he said "my hand? It's been doing the job for a long time" absolutely creased me 🤣
Great video though, I'm with you on 3D printer stuff though. One of the major issues I have with resin models is sometimes the sheer level of detail puts me off painting it. I'll print it and then put off doing anything with it because I know how difficult getting every detail right will be.
I came for this comment hahaha
That Vortex mixer is great, i have the same one but you really need to add 1 or 2 agitators inside the pots.
As we suspected! Glad it's good 👍
That defeats the point of the mixer then lol
How does it?
@@WardenOfTerra
@@WardenOfTerra It really doesn't, its just more efficient when it comes to citadel paints.
@@WardenOfTerra That's like saying a whisk defeats the point of a stand mixer.
The blue god hand is actually not for cutting pieces off runners. it'll break really quickly. it was made to cut nubs off gundam parts, flush and without stretching the plastic. because gundam plastic models comes in colored runners so you don't have to paint them and out of the box builds are rather popular. They'll serve better and longer as clean up nippers than to cut parts off sprue.
also, from experience, never use those blue god hands to cut weirdly angled plastics. they will break those fragile blades.
The problem with those "off-brand" vortex mixers is that is basically just good luck whether or not you get a dud. They are made in some Chinese factory with whatever electronics they need to use up. There is a 50/50 chance they can handle the torque or burn out. How fast they move...depends on what motor is in there. If you buy an actual lab-grade mixer like the FourE built to spec and it's a world of difference. They are more expensive, but if you have shoulder issues or just want the quality of life improvement they worth it. The real difference here is probably between painting an army or characters/display pieces. If you paint assembly line style you mix one paint and use it on 10 models. You do that a couple of times and that is your painting session. You paint a bunch of individual characters or display pieces you'll be pulling a lot of different paints off your rack to mix all the tones you want.
I would also strongly recommend using a needle pin instead of a knife for your pilot holes. The idea is to prevent slippage, but a knife gives you a slit, not a hole so you can still drill off-center.
If the drill bits are not deep enough in the chuck you get the wobble. Could be a user issue there, but another thing you need to keep in mind with rotary tools is the speed. So for anyone thinking about getting one look for something with lower numbers and a variable speed dial. You can melt plastic if you use too much speed. Absolutely worth it for converters though. You can do a lot more than just dill holes with them.
Mk 1 wrist - lolz
On the panel liner, if I want to be more precise than the brush that comes with it, I'll use a fountain pen. Also, if you use an acrylic gloss coat before the panel liner, you can use mineral spirits and a swab to clean up the panel liner without messing up your acrylic paints.
RE: Upgrade kits, I’ve switched to just giving the Sergeant/Pack leader and Elites the full work up with bits. Otherwise you spend all your days painting pelts and trinkets in addition to the armour.
i had a wow stick (the drill) brought for me as a gift and OMG its amazing!!!!, but like you say in the video is it worth the price tag probably not but hey as it was a gift then i dont have to worry right, lol!!!
The low speed makes it great for models.
A proper vortex mixer is an investment. It's not something I would recommend for a beginner. It's not a must-have, but if you're invested in the hobby it's a HUGE nice-to-have item.
But don't buy the cheap ones, they are dogsh*t.
Have you lot emailed Army Painter yet to try and get your hands on the new full fanatic range? Would be cool to do a video of AK 3rd gen vs fanatic warpaints.
HINT PATRICK
I've been using the same tamiya clips for coming on 5-6 years now. They've held up really well. Tamiya is the king of gimmicky hobby products though, have a look through their catalog.
My hand also, does the job, and, has been doing it for a long time ..since I was about 12 when I started Wa..........rhammering.
Vortex mixers are best luxury product. They aren’t necessary but they work so nicely. The one in the video looks a bit naff but if you’re willing to spend on a good one it’ll blitz anything in seconds.
That's not what God Hands are for. Use regular snips to cut the parts from sprues, then use the god hands on the nubs to trim the few mm of plastic from the part. Used correctly, God Hands are durable, precision tools. Mine have been going strong for 3 years now, and they work just as well on resin.
Great content! 100% need more of these videos! Subbed!
As others have stated, God Hand clippers have a very specific use. You can use them for other purposes, but if mustreated you'll break the blades. You should use other clippers to clip through large parts of spru, then use the side cutters to trim closer to the models without stressing the plastic and whitening it. They're often overkill for wargaming models and anything that will be painted
☝🏽
Geoff..... Have you tried using a child toothbrush (soft bristles) and Denture cleaning toothbrush (stiff bristles), might do the same as that AK tool and still be a little cheaper 😊
thank you for not wearing vinyl gloves I getting very worried about all you.......,
When drilling, I would try to stabilize the mini, the drill, or both. Don't have both in-hand. Plenty of ways to stick them into desks, holders, vises, clips, helping hands or such.
Great round up of products and their uses! I would say with paint mixers steel bearing agitator balls are worth a mention, they're not without flaw, they can go rusty over time and discolour the paint depending on the paint mix, but they massively help with using a paint sHaker or the ol' Mk1 hand. Really helpful video guys, good stuff!
I use glass balls for it, same result but none of the corrosion
@@koelkast9 that's good thinking! never heard that suggested before
@halfcrafted yeah my local craft store sold them as decoration. Bought a pack of 200 for just €3
Great vid. for part two how about modelling knives and glues.
Whoever created the thumbnail for this episode did a bang-up job. My wife saw the AK paint splatter tool, asked "What on earth is that?" and so we had to watch.
Tamiya gives you the comfort of GodHand and the double-blade cut of Citadel/AK for less than Citadel (at least here in N.America). If you're not fussy, you can just by a set of cutters from your local DIY shop for less than Citadel.
I don't think I could trust myself to use the pigment mixer without making a mess
It's absolutely hazardous
I agree if I walk near100' near a tube of grease it will accost me.
Never used the God Hand clippers but I can recommend the TAMIYA 300074093 plastic side cutters for around £13. Far better than the GW snips. I have two pairs that I've been using for around 5 years now and they have held up wonderfully. In regards to the Wow stick, I also have one and it's utility goes far beyond just drilling barrels. It's great for pinning metal and plastic minis because the bits were designed for customising PCB's. As someone who suffers with arthritis in my hands it's a total game changer. Since getting the Wowstick I haven't slipped and embedded a drill bit in the bones of my left index finger once. That alone is worth the extra £40 over a traditional pin drill.
Tamiya tools rarely disapoint!
@@GoastLincoln indeed, there is a reason thay their brand has been synonymous with quality scale modelling products around the world for the last 60 odd years.
I like you guys. In the interest of your own health and safety, PLEASE consider airbrushing with a respirator and well ventilated work area, maybe an airbrush 'booth' with ducting to a window. Keep up the great work!
You possibly care more than my own parents.
▶Lmao 13:23 "......When the 'Umee is _Me..... _*_Hmmueagghheeuh!‼"_*
Thanks for the shout out guys! Glad you liked working with our bits 🙂
They're awesome!
If you're using any Scale 75 paints (normal or Fantasy & Games set) then vortex mixer might be worth it. They're manufactured with gel medium and this thing is hell of a work to properly mix in any other way. Even minute of really strong shaking may not be enough to get the paint together and if gel is visibly separated from pigment - you're done. Vortex can fix even that. WIth most other companies (GW, AK Interactive, Vallejo, etc.) you don't really need it as shaking or pigment mixer will work fine, but Scale 75 is another matter entirely.
Pat your beard is nearly on par with Geoff's now 😂
My man you're wayyy too close with the airbrush. Absolutely positively flooding everything.
I did mention it was first attempt. I’ve been informed since.
I went from cheap game workshop and Amazon clippers to tamiya diagonal clippers which are £25. Holy poo they they are so good and feel even better to cut, I can cut really close to the model with no issues and it's hard to describe but the feeling you get is next to none
If the barrels aren’t drilled they can’t go bang! That wowstick looks good.
But then what if the hole is too small and then the bullet gets stuck??
@@thepaintingphaseif your hole is too small you should see a doctor 😅
Great vid guys! Loved seeing the various takes on products. I haven't ventured much into AK product but those clippers got me like 👀
7:14 My Mk 1 Wrist is pretty much worn out. Where can I get the Mk 2?
There’s was plans fora Mk2 wrist but apparently Elon Musk bought the company.
The Gundam builders use the tamiya panel liner, which is superb and comes in 3 colours
Wow stick is also great for pinning! I pin minis far more frequently than I drill barrels
Enjoyed the video thanks guys🎉
I just bought myself some GodHand clippers after watching this 😅
For the clippers, the Redgrass are worth checking out. They are probably not that far off God Hand but might be cheaper.
15:44 if you want to drill more than barrels the wow stick is great. Use it constantly for pitting and bullet holes in terrain.
Definitely a big fan of the vortex mixer, but with stainless agitators added (AK makes some, and mine have always been rust-free when I take them out after the paint pot runs out).
I'm looking forward to a "My hand does the job" T-shirt.
I’d buy that!
great video, but it felt a little like an AK ad. Also, i swear by the vortex mixer but it needs a ball in the paint first.
Not intentionally, just the way it landed.
Thank you, I didn't realise airbrushes with pistol grpis and triggers existed until I saw your video. I have limited mobility in my hands and this is exactly what I've been looking for!
The Mk1 wrist is a Brilliant line 🤣
Little trick I learned from making Gunplas. Use the cheaper clippers to remove the model from the spurs, leaving a bit attached to the model. Then go for a closer cut with the godhands. Cleaner cuts with more control and less stress on the godhands.
Cool video. You need a 3d printer in your life, for all those sm bits
Watch this space!
A Wow Stick for 54 quid or a dot of Abaddon Black....
Horses for courses.
You need to use vortex mixer with paint head down for citadel paints, as that plastic "nail" will work like mixer paddle. I have one, and it is amazing.
The box for the wowstick is good for storing paperclips for pinning needs in.
Also, that Amazon special drill, that metallic button should stop the bit spinning.
Or the one I bought does.
That said, I still wouldn't use it on miniatures any more either. The wowstick is just better.
Also, for mixers, there is also a nail polish shaker that works pretty well, but it is loud.
Not on mine unfortunately, that's the release for the drill bit. Makes horrible noises when you press it when the drill is on. Wowstick is absolutely better!
@@thepaintingphase how weird. Yeah mine acts like a clutch. The motor still spins and whines, but you can at least position it where it needs to be.
As an edge use case though, mine did come with small file tips, which make light work of plastic, so is great for weathering/damaging/destroying terrain and armour.
Great video chaps🎉
Great vid Pat n Jeffe 🔥
Great video, cheers
I use three pairs of clippers. Old rattling GW clippers for beater work, xurons for general part removal, and DSPIAE for precoloured japanese kits like gunpla. Honestly i believe a 15-20 pair of Xurons should be everyones goto for general use, using these gunpla clippers on anything you're going to scrape mold lines and apply paint is way overkill 😊
I bought that vortex mixer and it's quite decent (plus on sale atm) It works better for dropper bottles than GW paints. Just like you said.
Still good!
fucking LOVE my wowstick