Another tip, a well-seasoned mechanic who has installed many Espar and Webasto units over the years looked at my installation and advised me to, YES, keep the PUMP mounted at a 45-degree angle but the filter should always be mounted horizontally. The reason being is that the filter, when new, will always have a bit of air in it in the top half when mounted horizontally and over time, as it starts to clog up, you can easily tell if you need a new filter when you see that the filter is FULL of fuel. (restricted flow) I have no reason to doubt this man as he has been using these things for decades on his fleet of trucks and has been both a certified automotive and heavy-duty mechanic for more than 45 years.
Extra installation tips: The air intake pipe and the exhaust pipe/muffler should be mounted at a downward angle to allow water & condensation to drain. If your heater didn't come with a silencer for the air intake, there are upgraded silencers & mufflers you can buy to reduce the noise they make. The exhaust & intake pipes should go in opposing directions so that exhaust fumes don't get sucked into the intake pipe. The exhaust pipe should be pointed toward the closet edge of the undercarriage so that the fumes won't accumulate under the vehicle. If the noise of the heater disturbs you then mount the heater as far away from your sleeping area as practical. They sell quieter fuel pumps as an upgrade but their clicking is still audible. A piece of foam, preferably egg crate foam, can be wrapped around the pump to help muffle the clicking noise. Mounting the pump with a soft mount like on a rubber hanger helps to reduce the vibration when the pump diaphragm starts pumping.
Hi , great video. Just a tip for priming I used a spray pump from my wife's "Spray & wipe" bottle, the tube is the same size as the fuel line, so its just a matter of sliding it into the outer tube at the filter, it only takes a few seconds and it's done. Just be Shaw you put it back before the wife sees it's missing.
You are awesome! This was definitely the best pro tip video I've seen for these Chinese heaters. Concise, straight to the point, great video and music and no senseless chatter, which makes your videos very interesting to watch!
_Nice vlog with tips; I'm keeping this one to pass along to others who want to install their own. When it comes to these fuel tanks that come in the kits. There two main things that people miss. First is the tank itself. That little square foot is to give the tank a slight tilt for either way. Not to place the fuel nipple into. Although you can, as many do. Now, secondly, the lid, if you look under it pull these apart, you can put the fuel line through the top and into the next piece, pull the rubber from the clear piece. For installment into any camper, van, or trailer inside, you really want your fuel to feed your heater from the top, NOT under the fuel tank. Here the kicker, then you can use anything that holds diesel fuel for your needs. I just got done using 2 stainless steel jug for a fuel tank for a customer. Or you can use regular fuel can. If it ever goes bad, you just lift the whole line out and drop into a new tank in 10 sec. Those tanks for the kits can and will split right at the seams; I've changed out like five of them already for people and have always replaced with some type of top-down fuel line system with a replacement tank of some sort for the customers. When it comes to the pump, you can take all the air bubbles out caused by the piston's cavitation. You have to use a hand-operated vacuum pump. Once you prime to the pump with a hand-operated vacuum; connect the fuel line to the pump; a pump for a minute, add a foot foot-long, and a hand pump to add a strong vacuum and draw out the air. Once that done, you can run your line to the heater and prime until you get to the heater, pump out the fuel for a sec, then make the final connection to the heater. At that point, you can have the pump at 0° through 90° as long as you don't run it out of fuel from the tank. My own fuel line from the tank to pump is 2'; from the pump is 15' to the heater. A total of 17' with no air bubbles. My own build is the longest fuel line run to this day. Have also started to use 4mm air/ oil push-to-connector within the fuel systems, too, with no issues._
@@rustysummers3217, I was talking about the caps that come with these tanks in the kits. Yes, I use a regular 2 1/2 gallon regular fuel container for my own tank. My thinking was if I ever needed to replace the fuel container. I could go anywhere, even a 7-11 store, for a quick fix. I drilled a hole in the blank that kept fuel in and ran the line into it with the kits' metal nipple. But did use a different inline fuel filter, 1/4 ZYTC clear plastic glass inline filter close to the metal nipple. Right now, those seem to work fine, and I got them off of Amazon. Ten for 10 bucks, I think. You also need to make sure all the air is out of those filters too. I agree with you. I would NOT have any tank inside; you're right, just in case, the fuel would never get out the smell out, no matter how you clean it.
@@rustysummers3217, I'm not sure how long of a line you can have before the pump. I know what the manual has said, but I would think a good 5 meter before. Thanks, I'll set up a test this weekend to find out how long before the pump can't handle the draw in the back shop too. I have set up a couple of pumps and lines to test out more ways to keep the pumps and fuel lines' noise down to a bare minimum or cut out the noise completely. I let you know how it goes.
Excellent information and advice. Very clear. I've been using these heaters for quite a while now. I've had one in my RV for two years and it still runs like new. Your advice about proper fuel line is dead on. It's not so critical for the line running up to the filter and pump, but from pump to heater you must use the 0.2 cm (id) tubing. It's hard for a reason. The soft rubber hose absorbs the pump's metering pulse. It doesn't allow a full pulse with soft hose. Don't know why they send this stuff with many heaters. Kind thanks for taking time to explain these things. You are helping many folks. Instant LIKE and SUBSCIBE! Greetings from Alaska.
@@gnomiedan5424 As for information, there's tons of it here on RUclips. You'll get it figured out. Just don't take any shortcuts. Install it correctly. Find a way to prime it before just hitting the start button. If done correctly you'll have a good heat source and cheap too! Good luck.
I have an observation to make concerning the use of a hard fuel line between the pump and the heater. It seems a soft fuel line like automotive fuel line would serve somewhat as a bladder that would reduce the number of times the pump 'clicks' and also take some shock out of the system. A pump 'clicking' into a solid plumbing system is going to see a rapid rate of pressure increase so the pump likely would pump less each 'click'. Another point: It seems drawing some of all of the combustion air for the heater from the living space would be handy for moisture reduction. I doubt that many campers are so air tight that the heater would be starved but if starving were a problem ventilation openings could easily be added. Nice job on the video and install. Thanks.
Also thank you Hugh for this very informative video, to us rookies who are teaching ourselves, it means the world to have this broken down and explained as simply as possible with the experience behind recommending what to use and what not to use. Greatly appreciated this video
For the intake tubing, I would recommend SCAT tubing. Comes in all sizes. Used a lot in aviation, boats, and high performance cars. High temp resistant, durable, flexible, and won't collapse.
Just installed in my 92 Defender 110. Used 7/8” inner diameter rubber drain hose to extend the air intake 8 feet to a high location in the engine compartment away from water. I’ve got it tied back and away from the hot parts of the engine. It may not last forever but so far so good!
I am considering one of these heaters and have been watching several how to install vids. Another tip is to be able to turn off the display unit when not in use, the read out seems to fade quite soon. Easy to buy and replace but just another cost. Hope this helps out. Thank you for a informative video.
On my heater I used a reinforced silicone pipe with a engine oil breather filter on the end and that helps a little in reducing the intake noise. The exhaust I used the fiberglass heat tape on it just as a precaution. The only other thing I did with mine is to reduce the top speed of the fans by a small amount to reduce vibration noise and it's now lovely and quite (for a diesel heater) and the van is toasty warm.
@@RossTallo press the settings button and then ok a couple of times until you find a set of - - - - then key in 1688. Its done on the up down buttons to select each number then ok to go to next number. After that pressing ok until you reach a low number i think off my head its 1.65hz that is the low pump speed the next one after pressing ok is the high speed of the pump that on mine i reduced by pressing the up/down button to set it at a lower number. Again its in Hertz 5.85hz example. After that after ok the next is low speed fans and high speed fans and by reducing the high speed fans by a small amount (800rpm) it stopped it howling like a banshee on start up. If you still struggle find me on Instagram and I will go through it with you on a video chat. Instagram or Facebook.
OK so I am waiting for mine to arrive (went for an all in one unit). I thought id get it early on so I can dry out my convoy properly before doing all the prelim work and insulating. Had always though I would go with a woodburner but an experienced mate extolled the virtues of the diesel heater. Slightly beginning to wish I hadn't as I am now going down the RUclips rabbit hole with this stuff! However, thanks for this video Hugh, and thanks to all those giving great insights in the comments! S.
Good few tips, there, Hugh.. 👍 I've fitted mine, but not wired it yet. Firstly I discarded the plate and bought a turret plate for £19 with sufficient depth to protect the plywood and insulation layers and protrude through the bodywork..then I had some of the nylon pipe from a previous van. The jubilee clips, are all stainless ones from online. I didn't use any of the ones that came with the unit. When I wire it up, I'll be cutting the battery wires as short as possible, to avoid voltage errors, or maybe changing them to thicker wires.. 🤔 Oh and lastly, I bought some aluminium ducting from Amazon, as the ducting supplied is minimal, considering it came with a T junction and two vents...lol Great vid..thankya.. 👍
Great video and useful safety points too. I’ve heard a number of installers also upgrade the filter as they are often fragile or brittle. Cheap enough from Halfords. Like the idea of something more substantial for the air supply to the heater too. ✅👍
I've got three of these. I swapped out virtually all the fittings including fuel tanks. I used a hydroponics 15ltr top fill and top outlet tank, they are fully chemical and solvent resistant. so no fear of leaking from bottom fittings. I agree that the hose clips supplied are not very good quality. And I use proper diesel fuel line with the braided outer covering. I love them super heat output. Cheap spares as well. PS good video for beginners.
Good video it is good to have these points given verbally, but one point a good inline switch is great and needed if you leave fire not used for long time. But switch must be safe and never used to turn fire off.
I use the soft Fuel pipe have done for 6 years i have 3 heaters , The hard pipe makes click click noise , the soft pipe nice and quiet , the fuel pulse has no dramas with the soft pipe at all Rob NSW Australia
I agree, that's what makes them so noisy. The fuel line does not affect the pulse at all as the pulse is controlled by electronics activating the pump. The hard plastic line resonates the noise making it even worse.
Im a Newby about to select and buy a unit. You video is first class and helpful. You ention things I don't even know about, so couldn't consider? Great work!
My tip is to not use the rubber gasket that goes next to the exhaust outlet. Mine was heating up and burning, giving off burnt rubber fumes. I took it off and used fire resistant sealant instead.
What sealant would you recommend? I found VITCAS Heat Resistant SILICONE (300°c) of VITCAS Heat Resistant Sealant Sealant (1300 °C).I have no clue about these products
@@mingueyox I am pretty sure it was the one called firemate that I used but I wouldn't know if it is the best one. I have a carbon monoxide tester in the van and it hasn't gone off having used the heater a few times in the last 2 months.
Great video! I literally just bought a diesel Ducato (Dodge Promaster here in the US) and am looking to install this exact unit! And wondering how to tap the fuel tank as well! Thanks a bunch, saved me a sh*t load of time
fuel may cause stripping of certain types of hose, gradually perforating the fuel hose Make sure to use the rated hose for Diesel And prevent a cause of fire
That is the main problem with the green supply hose that comes in SOME diesel air heater kits. It is suitable for aquariums...maybe. Your local auto supply store can provide the proper fuel-rated line and fittings (if needed) to get you up and running. Take the green line in with you to purchase the good stuff.
Hi you get compression fitting for the hard plastic use the black as the clear is susceptible to UV degrading !! Also butting it up against input on pump inside some tube if bent can obstruct opening restricting flow !! The best on other fuel lines are crimp ones you get a more even distribution on the grip!! I used to do motorsport and all these that iv’e said are all tested and proven as we’ve all gone through that with fuel lines especially on fuel injected engines as re pressure !! Also same on any air lines like on air jacks same plastic tube with pressure fittings !! 👍
I installed one of these in my travel trailer (caravan). It came out of a wrecked semi truck (transport). Nearly all truck manufacture's here in the States use the same heaters in the sleeper berths. Very quiet. My next project is to install the APU (Aux. Power Unit) from the same wreck to supply house hold electric power and air conditioning. It is also diesel powered and circulates engine coolant thru the vehicle engine block when parked.
I'm surprised that you have not made a video showing how to tap into the fuel tank of the Relay/Boxer/Ducato. This would be super useful for many as I can't find a good how to.
Great video, thanks. I know someone who had the air intake pipe squashed and killed the heater so definitely try to mount that pipe somewhere as protected as possible.
I bought one of these heaters so this is a great video for me. The only thing I think you need change if using the t5s own tank is the pick up pipe. The one that comes in the kit,the nut is to big and doesn't fit on the sender. I got the proper one for about £12 I think.
Sprinters and Masters have an aux feed fitted on the sender, it's capped off and is really simple to use. My Ducato had a hatch like your Boxer but bizarrely it did not line up with the sender! External tank to the rescue.
I agree complete with you - thank you for your video, instructions, presentation etc. I fix and customize vehicles since many years. So I use good parts, to get run without problems. ie a cheap clamp can become terrible. But no One wants to get this. So I have a box with good clamps in different sizes. This shown green tube roll is ie in use for the water system by the windscreen wipers. Or at fish tanks. But not for fuel. There are bigger rubber tubes with textile reinforced - mounted in vehicles. With a small pump like these diesel pumps, you need small tubes. Made of material, who stays solid, while the pump is soaking. = you said it right. Here in germany I use light oil for heating. Even to fill a diesel heater tank. Because it costs the half price = cheaper as diesel fuel. And I have 4.500 litres light oil at home. But it is illegal, to drive a diesel car with light oil. Starting year 2021, the diesel price climbs up to seven Euro-cents more per litre. Here in germany. You can say, a running diesel heater needs not much diesel. ie a 5 kw heater, who makes 2 kw heating, needs less diesel and less noise, as a 2 kw heater. But if you let run the diesel heater several hours per day, it will need his fuel. And this costs his price.
The vw t4 has a round metal panel under the passenger seats unscrew that and you have access to the top of the fuel tank/sender it means unbolting the seats but easier than dropping the fuel tank 😉
Ah that paper insulated hose again you get reinforced it’s not as cheep though🙈!! But we used it on air ducting to and from brake ducting !! And it’s way more flexible without kinking !!
I just got my heater installed at the garage I use who also convert camper vans. My fuel comes directly from the van tank, but that pick up pipe in the kit is not required. Instead the fuel line is spliced using a "T" piece. I also purchased a mounting plate with 65mm turret so only one 125mm diameter hole needs cut on the floor, my heater is mounted under the drivers seat and I have a 2kw heater which is adequite. You are correct about that green tubing, the minute he saw that he said you will need some descent fuel grade tubing. I wired mine into my fuse box even though it has a 15A inline fuse. I don't want the display runing constantly and when my van is parked up and not in use I use the power isolation switch mounted beside my leisure battery to power off. I found it strange that 5kw heaters are cheaper than 2kw.
For the inlet pipe I made a mandrel from a broomstick which I screwed in a threaded rod into. The mandrel can be used to make a coil out of (what I use) 1,6mm thick mig welding wire. One can also use the thicker gardening wire or simply fencing wire. The coil can be fed over the flimsy pipe which keeps it from kinking or deforming very easily. In general one has to be careful how such pipes are mounted and routed...
So I used the soft line that you said not to use... And I noticed today that the line had micro cracks all the way up it after some moderate use... I installed it about 5 months ago. So yeah time to get the nylon one and change them over
ok what have you done with Hugh ..... your videos are too good, the old guy was much more fun to poke holes in what he did. This Hugh Mk11 is on point LOL
ive been using the intake and exhaist tubes for years that came with my heater.. no problems with the intake getting clogged or the pipe squished.. you just have to protect it whern you install it that you have the exhaust pointing toward the back of thre van / bus / RV so that you dont oush dirt, bugs, water, etc into the exhaist while you are driving.
I found the pump very noisy on first installation. Now mounted in a diecast box with filter. The box is on vibration mounts on the caravan chassis rear. I can just hear the pump faintly when in side, if I want to and that is loud enough. Mine is through its own switch at the battery. On at the start of a trip and off on return home. I kept hot air hose to one length and one vent for a 21 ft heavily insulated van in Australian climate. All good.
All the cutaway vans I have had in the U.S. already have the dip tube installed in the fuel tank from the factory. You only need to pull the rubber cap off and hook up.
fuel pump tip, spray a little shot of wd40 into the pump before you start priming, that way it has a drop of lube to work with before it gets diesel boom!
I fitted mine like Mels Van World does his installs. Buy a more suitable custom sized tank online that fits your location, I only had space for a small 5 litre (ask for a lid with one way valve) Buy a fuel outlet tube that fits at the top of the tank. In my case this has two benefits - the tank can't leak fuel at a low point like the standard tanks and you don't need the fuel filter as any impurities sit in the bottom of the tank. Especially because my filter when it was fitted being a cheap part leaked diesel.
For fresh air intake. Try some flexible conduit . It's can withstand heat but won't crush and is flexible . Also if your heater loses power. You can supplement air flow . So u don't ruin it .
the reason they changed from the side filling cap to the one you have with the filling port in the middle is because there is less chance of diesel leakage as its splashing about in there. You do not want any diesel anywhere in your van and its best to either tap into the vehicle supply(difficult for most)or fit a separate external tank. Tanks under the bonnet are not recommended as you also dont want any diesel in the engine bay.
The last tip about overheating the PCB board is why I don't put the heater on a switch. While the controller draws a bit of power even on off, after the heater fully shuts down and cooled, and only when I don't plan to use the heater for the night (say, when I'm done camping in the cold), will I disconnect the controller to prevent a parasitic draw to the house/aux battery.
Anudda tip for insulating exhaust 'hot' pipe can actually double as 'heat exchanger'. Coil a copper pipe (moving liquid, I E oil or water) around exhaust pipe n U got free heated water (5w /12v water pump). Slip anuud larger pipe over windings after taping exhaust tape around copper n U hav a heat exchange going n a safer contact wid odda materials.
Being an engineer, we pulled one of these apart in the work shop, straight to the point my life is worth more than £90, its that price foor a reason, their shite
icve had one shut off while it was running full bl;ast.. it smelled a little hot but didnt die.. for some reason the fuse popped while the heater was on.. personally i dont care for these.. I like the coolant version better because it can pre-heat my engine.. so ive switched to the coolant units that keep the coolant warm and then I use the interior heater fans to keep the cabin warm (mine are in Busses and not caravans)
We are designing a small add-on interface that will go between the controller and heater on the blue wire. the interface will only have two wires to splice in (blue and ground) it wont stop you using the heater or controller in any way however what it does is if the heater is running in a low setting after a set time it will take over control and ramp up the heater for 5 mins at full burn then it will revert back to your own lower settings, after a little while it will do it again. what this does is help stop the heater clogging up with soot by giving it time to burn it out caused by running the heater low for too long. this is what happens in the more expensive units of Webasto and Erberspacher
The rubber pipe is better than nylon hose and is a necessity in a boat. Get a better exhaust and use the the existing aluminium one for air intake. Use the simplest on off control unit as less to go wrong. Mount where easily accessible and they're so cheap you can just get a spare if you have problems. Run on maximum power regularly to clean the carbon build up.
I installed one of these on my garden workshop, it was a pig to fit, but once in its a godsend. I use paraffin for fuel, only thing wrong with it is, the amps, on start up I have to turn off any other electrical draw in the workshop. It takes 5-10 minutes for it to warm up and drop its amps. Then I can turn on the solar electrics and all is fine. Massive other tip is on shutdown let it shutdown by itself dont just turn off the machine. It stops it choking up with coke. My health and safety inspection on my workshop they made me fit a Carbon Monoxide detector above it, and a smoke detector, oh the exhaust gets mega mega hot, I wrapped my in a silicone,
Cheers Richard, they do draw a ton of amps on startup! Yeah I mention about letting it do its run down cycle, don't want the control board melting. Another good tip on wrapping the exhaust if it passes near important stuff
I never hear anybody mention OC detector should be the first thing it has some kind of built-in one I wouldn't trust it anytime you can bust in a small enclosed area you should have that on the wall stay safe
hi david, depends on the heat output selected but: ruclips.net/user/johnmck1147 has some great info and I think he mentions fuel usage amounts. the fuel filter seems fine. A little flimsy and worthy of an upgrade but works none the less. don't think there is a warranty on these, more a case of as it costs under £100 if it breaks you buy another, which is a shame.
wow i have had issues with mine blowing exhaust fumes back into the van so i have had to cut it off, didnt realise the importance of letting it run down. very helpful thanks
Hi Hugh, been using that green fuel line for 2 plus years now without problems infact I did buy the harder nylon fuel line to replace it. I checked it around a month ago (before winter) just to check the green line was holding up and it still looks brand new after 2 years, but I have the other nylon type with the rubber ends as a back up. I also made a aluminium heat sheild that fits between the fuel line and the exhaust that fixed by the 2 main unit bolts that come through the floor.
Regarding the nylon fuel line and the click clicking from the fuel pump. You suggest to “soft mount” the fuel line to reduce the fuel pump clicking sound. Could you please explain what soft mounting means? A valuable video, so thank you.
As said, the fuel tank access is the same as on the Jumper (relay), Boxer and Ducato (I own a Ducato). I think it also applies to the Ram Promaster as this van is called in the US. A small suggestion: shorten the length of the fuel line in the tank. Make sure its 5-10cm shorter than the depth of the tank. That makes sure the heater can’t draw the tank to empty, it will shutdown due to lack of fuel, while you still have enough to start and drive 😀 And make sure you use proper wiring gauge. Startup current requires some more power than regular running, so use at least 2.5mm2 wiring (very short runs) and preferably 4mm2 Finally, i’d like to spraypaint the tubes and jubilee clips with black or transparant paint. (I used heat resistent black for the exhaust silencer, pipe and clips). I really dont trust the chinese stuff and think they will rust almost instantly once installed underneath, so i’d like to add some layer of additional protection. You might go for stainless steel clips (i think the ones who came with the heaters aren’t) For the fuel pump, mount it as close to the tank as possible. If you need to run a long fuel line, extend the line between pump and heater, and not between tank and pump. First startup will take some restarts since you have to fill the whole line.
1 huge tip is most vans only need 2kw - 5kw is far to much for a van & you end up running them so low & they soot up & fail. 2kw is smaller & takes lest space. They sell 5kw as 2kw because they have changed the software on the controller so BE CAREFUL look for the real 2kg ;)
shoots , i have a 5kw for the back of my pick-up truck cap ...... i ran it for the 1st time today , not inside the cap... thing is radical. I was laughing how strong it was... is there anything on the fuel end , additives that could help with that or just run her full blast every now and then ? 🤘🏼
Searching Life yeah if it’s the 5kw just run full blast every now and then to de-soot mate. It’s critical to do this because it will fail if you don’t.
Royce Munday hey mate genuinely there a lot smaller buddy look at the sizes the de-tuned 5kg are much bigger & they make them run at 2kw.. so definitely look at sizes in this case smaller is definitely better ;)
Useful video I’ve installed one recently in 16plate boxer wanted to tap into sender unit but forums are saying removing sender unit can be awkward also read something about having limited time to refit sender unit as possible immobiliser issues for some reason , I opted for a tank like Mel uses for now also put the pump underneath on the chassis cross section much quieter , if you manage to tap into sender can you make a video be awesome 👍
Some good tips there but a few incorrect statements but such a useful video. The jubilee clips are absolutely rubbish I invest in good quality stainless steel ones every fitting. The pumps can vary in fuel delivery pulses, these can come with any one of 3 different rated pumps starting at 0.16 ML per pulse, the 5KW heater generally comes with the 0.22 ML pump. The pump delivers fuel in pulses which is why the green fuel line is not good as it stretches and pulses with each pump action which the rigid fuel line does not but this can be compensated for in the heater settings. Each heater acts differently and should be tuned after fitting depending on its fitting and fuel line used. The pumps is a solenoid based pump and requires absoluteley no lubrication whatsoever. This is why it can run on other fuels which have no lubricationg actions such as kerosene.
Thank you. I use kerosene to heat the house and I was just about to ask if this heater can work on kerosene but I read your comment, and the next question is if I can use a 20 L different tank. I don't see why not. Any comments are welcome. Bye.
Thank you. I use kerosene to heat the house and I was just about to ask if this heater can work on kerosene but I read your comment, and the next question is if I can use a 20 L different tank. I don't see why not. Any comments are welcome. Bye.
I believe it does require lubrication. It's metal on metal. Search for diesel heater videos by John McK 47. He has an excellent series of videos on these heaters.
Great overall video however this you need to take to your other wiring even though that is fused in theater it needs to have a fuse at the positive connection point/ distribution whatever every Hardware has to have its own fuse if you put that in there and that wire shorts out in between the back of the van and the battery the wire would literally turn into the toaster oven doesn't matter what kind of fuses in the heater I do like how you mention the cool down process so
Another tip, a well-seasoned mechanic who has installed many Espar and Webasto units over the years looked at my installation and advised me to, YES, keep the PUMP mounted at a 45-degree angle but the filter should always be mounted horizontally. The reason being is that the filter, when new, will always have a bit of air in it in the top half when mounted horizontally and over time, as it starts to clog up, you can easily tell if you need a new filter when you see that the filter is FULL of fuel. (restricted flow) I have no reason to doubt this man as he has been using these things for decades on his fleet of trucks and has been both a certified automotive and heavy-duty mechanic for more than 45 years.
Extra installation tips: The air intake pipe and the exhaust pipe/muffler should be mounted at a downward angle to allow water & condensation to drain. If your heater didn't come with a silencer for the air intake, there are upgraded silencers & mufflers you can buy to reduce the noise they make. The exhaust & intake pipes should go in opposing directions so that exhaust fumes don't get sucked into the intake pipe. The exhaust pipe should be pointed toward the closet edge of the undercarriage so that the fumes won't accumulate under the vehicle. If the noise of the heater disturbs you then mount the heater as far away from your sleeping area as practical. They sell quieter fuel pumps as an upgrade but their clicking is still audible. A piece of foam, preferably egg crate foam, can be wrapped around the pump to help muffle the clicking noise. Mounting the pump with a soft mount like on a rubber hanger helps to reduce the vibration when the pump diaphragm starts pumping.
he knows that
Hi , great video. Just a tip for priming I used a spray pump from my wife's "Spray & wipe" bottle, the tube is the same size as the fuel line, so its just a matter of sliding it into the outer tube at the filter, it only takes a few seconds and it's done. Just be Shaw you put it back before the wife sees it's missing.
haha and also clean out the diesel im guessing
Ya,...feel U there,😜dats like dangerous territory man, Ur a brave on...lol!!
You are awesome! This was definitely the best pro tip video I've seen for these Chinese heaters. Concise, straight to the point, great video and music and no senseless chatter, which makes your videos very interesting to watch!
cheers matey!
I own a Relay (or Jumper as it is called in rest of Europe) and I can confirm that the hatch for the diesel tank is just the same🙂
_Nice vlog with tips; I'm keeping this one to pass along to others who want to install their own. When it comes to these fuel tanks that come in the kits. There two main things that people miss. First is the tank itself. That little square foot is to give the tank a slight tilt for either way. Not to place the fuel nipple into. Although you can, as many do. Now, secondly, the lid, if you look under it pull these apart, you can put the fuel line through the top and into the next piece, pull the rubber from the clear piece. For installment into any camper, van, or trailer inside, you really want your fuel to feed your heater from the top, NOT under the fuel tank. Here the kicker, then you can use anything that holds diesel fuel for your needs. I just got done using 2 stainless steel jug for a fuel tank for a customer. Or you can use regular fuel can. If it ever goes bad, you just lift the whole line out and drop into a new tank in 10 sec. Those tanks for the kits can and will split right at the seams; I've changed out like five of them already for people and have always replaced with some type of top-down fuel line system with a replacement tank of some sort for the customers. When it comes to the pump, you can take all the air bubbles out caused by the piston's cavitation. You have to use a hand-operated vacuum pump. Once you prime to the pump with a hand-operated vacuum; connect the fuel line to the pump; a pump for a minute, add a foot foot-long, and a hand pump to add a strong vacuum and draw out the air. Once that done, you can run your line to the heater and prime until you get to the heater, pump out the fuel for a sec, then make the final connection to the heater. At that point, you can have the pump at 0° through 90° as long as you don't run it out of fuel from the tank. My own fuel line from the tank to pump is 2'; from the pump is 15' to the heater. A total of 17' with no air bubbles. My own build is the longest fuel line run to this day. Have also started to use 4mm air/ oil push-to-connector within the fuel systems, too, with no issues._
@@rustysummers3217, I was talking about the caps that come with these tanks in the kits. Yes, I use a regular 2 1/2 gallon regular fuel container for my own tank. My thinking was if I ever needed to replace the fuel container. I could go anywhere, even a 7-11 store, for a quick fix. I drilled a hole in the blank that kept fuel in and ran the line into it with the kits' metal nipple. But did use a different inline fuel filter, 1/4 ZYTC clear plastic glass inline filter close to the metal nipple. Right now, those seem to work fine, and I got them off of Amazon. Ten for 10 bucks, I think. You also need to make sure all the air is out of those filters too. I agree with you. I would NOT have any tank inside; you're right, just in case, the fuel would never get out the smell out, no matter how you clean it.
@@rustysummers3217, I'm not sure how long of a line you can have before the pump. I know what the manual has said, but I would think a good 5 meter before. Thanks, I'll set up a test this weekend to find out how long before the pump can't handle the draw in the back shop too. I have set up a couple of pumps and lines to test out more ways to keep the pumps and fuel lines' noise down to a bare minimum or cut out the noise completely. I let you know how it goes.
Excellent information and advice. Very clear. I've been using these heaters for quite a while now. I've had one in my RV for two years and it still runs like new. Your advice about proper fuel line is dead on. It's not so critical for the line running up to the filter and pump, but from pump to heater you must use the 0.2 cm (id) tubing. It's hard for a reason. The soft rubber hose absorbs the pump's metering pulse. It doesn't allow a full pulse with soft hose. Don't know why they send this stuff with many heaters. Kind thanks for taking time to explain these things. You are helping many folks. Instant LIKE and SUBSCIBE! Greetings from Alaska.
cheers! and greeting from the UK
I'm in wasilla Ak about to install mine any tips and tricks I should know
@@gnomiedan5424 As for information, there's tons of it here on RUclips. You'll get it figured out. Just don't take any shortcuts. Install it correctly. Find a way to prime it before just hitting the start button. If done correctly you'll have a good heat source and cheap too! Good luck.
I have an observation to make concerning the use of a hard fuel line between the pump and the heater. It seems a soft fuel line like automotive fuel line would serve somewhat as a bladder that would reduce the number of times the pump 'clicks' and also take some shock out of the system. A pump 'clicking' into a solid plumbing system is going to see a rapid rate of pressure increase so the pump likely would pump less each 'click'. Another point: It seems drawing some of all of the combustion air for the heater from the living space would be handy for moisture reduction. I doubt that many campers are so air tight that the heater would be starved but if starving were a problem ventilation openings could easily be added. Nice job on the video and install. Thanks.
Also thank you Hugh for this very informative video, to us rookies who are teaching ourselves, it means the world to have this broken down and explained as simply as possible with the experience behind recommending what to use and what not to use. Greatly appreciated this video
For the intake tubing, I would recommend SCAT tubing. Comes in all sizes. Used a lot in aviation, boats, and high performance cars. High temp resistant, durable, flexible, and won't collapse.
Just installed in my 92 Defender 110. Used 7/8” inner diameter rubber drain hose to extend the air intake 8 feet to a high location in the engine compartment away from water. I’ve got it tied back and away from the hot parts of the engine. It may not last forever but so far so good!
I am considering one of these heaters and have been watching several how to install vids. Another tip is to be able to turn off the display unit when not in use, the read out seems to fade quite soon. Easy to buy and replace but just another cost. Hope this helps out. Thank you for a informative video.
Your video is fantastic, Hugh. The diagram made me smile. Thank you for putting in so much work to make the video. It is EXTREMELY HELPFUL.
Thanks April!
On my heater I used a reinforced silicone pipe with a engine oil breather filter on the end and that helps a little in reducing the intake noise. The exhaust I used the fiberglass heat tape on it just as a precaution. The only other thing I did with mine is to reduce the top speed of the fans by a small amount to reduce vibration noise and it's now lovely and quite (for a diesel heater) and the van is toasty warm.
How to reduce the fan speed mate?
@@RossTallo press the settings button and then ok a couple of times until you find a set of - - - - then key in 1688. Its done on the up down buttons to select each number then ok to go to next number. After that pressing ok until you reach a low number i think off my head its 1.65hz that is the low pump speed the next one after pressing ok is the high speed of the pump that on mine i reduced by pressing the up/down button to set it at a lower number. Again its in Hertz 5.85hz example. After that after ok the next is low speed fans and high speed fans and by reducing the high speed fans by a small amount (800rpm) it stopped it howling like a banshee on start up. If you still struggle find me on Instagram and I will go through it with you on a video chat. Instagram or Facebook.
@@catvando3209 some man, cheers Stephen! Will definitely have a go at this when I get mine 👍🏻
My diesel heater came with two mufflers, one for the intake and one for the exhaust.
All of your tips are essentials for reliable performance
Some great tips high for those people installing this heater.
OK so I am waiting for mine to arrive (went for an all in one unit). I thought id get it early on so I can dry out my convoy properly before doing all the prelim work and insulating. Had always though I would go with a woodburner but an experienced mate extolled the virtues of the diesel heater. Slightly beginning to wish I hadn't as I am now going down the RUclips rabbit hole with this stuff! However, thanks for this video Hugh, and thanks to all those giving great insights in the comments! S.
haha the YT rabbit hole can be a dangerous peril! Good luck with it all
Good few tips, there, Hugh.. 👍
I've fitted mine, but not wired it yet.
Firstly I discarded the plate and bought a turret plate for £19 with sufficient depth to protect the plywood and insulation layers and protrude through the bodywork..then I had some of the nylon pipe from a previous van. The jubilee clips, are all stainless ones from online. I didn't use any of the ones that came with the unit. When I wire it up, I'll be cutting the battery wires as short as possible, to avoid voltage errors, or maybe changing them to thicker wires.. 🤔
Oh and lastly, I bought some aluminium ducting from Amazon, as the ducting supplied is minimal, considering it came with a T junction and two vents...lol
Great vid..thankya.. 👍
Cheers, some interesting points!
what a great to the point video ! i didnt have to watch you eat a burger and pet your dog for 20 minutes :-) Thank you :-)
Great video and useful safety points too. I’ve heard a number of installers also upgrade the filter as they are often fragile or brittle. Cheap enough from Halfords. Like the idea of something more substantial for the air supply to the heater too. ✅👍
Yes great point, for such a small amount of extra money upgrading those small parts can make a big difference
I've got three of these.
I swapped out virtually all the fittings including fuel tanks.
I used a hydroponics 15ltr top fill and top outlet tank, they are fully chemical and solvent resistant. so no fear of leaking from bottom fittings.
I agree that the hose clips supplied are not very good quality.
And I use proper diesel fuel line with the braided outer covering.
I love them super heat output.
Cheap spares as well.
PS good video for beginners.
Thanks Paul! couldn't agree more you basically get a super cheap webasto with bag accessories. change up the extra parts and you're laughing
Good video it is good to have these points given verbally, but one point a good inline switch is great and needed if you leave fire not used for long time. But switch must be safe and never used to turn fire off.
Good idea...For the fuel line or electric my friend?
Tx bro for all your good advice 🙏
God bless you. 🙌
Much love from South Africa 🇿🇦
cheers dude! appreciate it!
I use the soft Fuel pipe have done for 6 years i have 3 heaters , The hard pipe makes click click noise , the soft pipe nice and quiet , the fuel pulse has no dramas with the soft pipe at all
Rob
NSW
Australia
I agree, that's what makes them so noisy. The fuel line does not affect the pulse at all as the pulse is controlled by electronics activating the pump. The hard plastic line resonates the noise making it even worse.
Im a Newby about to select and buy a unit. You video is first class and helpful. You ention things I don't even know about, so couldn't consider? Great work!
My tip is to not use the rubber gasket that goes next to the exhaust outlet. Mine was heating up and burning, giving off burnt rubber fumes. I took it off and used fire resistant sealant instead.
What sealant would you recommend?
I found VITCAS Heat Resistant SILICONE (300°c) of VITCAS Heat Resistant Sealant Sealant (1300 °C).I have no clue about these products
@@mingueyox I am pretty sure it was the one called firemate that I used but I wouldn't know if it is the best one. I have a carbon monoxide tester in the van and it hasn't gone off having used the heater a few times in the last 2 months.
@@exploringavenues2269 Great. Thank you you for your feedback 👍
Be sure to leave enough room around the exhaust pipe to avoid overheat the layers around it
nice tip, i was going to leave mine on!
Great video. I’ve got both relay and a boxer and can confirm that he Relay is the same set up with easy access to the top of the tank
Very informative well done 👍 I got a tip get a wood burner 😂
ahh Mel, I would love a log burner but it just won't work in my design for the current van
The wood burner with the pizza oven looks stunning !
I was thinking about fitting a wood burning stove in my shed/workshop but now I'm considering one of these diesel heaters. 👍 😎
Great video! I literally just bought a diesel Ducato (Dodge Promaster here in the US) and am looking to install this exact unit! And wondering how to tap the fuel tank as well! Thanks a bunch, saved me a sh*t load of time
haha glad I could help
Yes I always pre prime the lines going to the pump your right about the dry wear too
fuel may cause stripping of certain types of hose, gradually perforating the fuel hose Make sure to use the rated hose for Diesel And prevent a cause of fire
Thx I was wondering why.
Yeah I used the soft tube that came with my kit and it did this
That is the main problem with the green supply hose that comes in SOME diesel air heater kits. It is suitable for aquariums...maybe. Your local auto supply store can provide the proper fuel-rated line and fittings (if needed) to get you up and running. Take the green line in with you to purchase the good stuff.
@@geraldhenrickson7472 does anyone have a link to what tube i should buy please? thank you
Hi you get compression fitting for the hard plastic use the black as the clear is susceptible to UV degrading !! Also butting it up against input on pump inside some tube if bent can obstruct opening restricting flow !! The best on other fuel lines are crimp ones you get a more even distribution on the grip!! I used to do motorsport and all these that iv’e said are all tested and proven as we’ve all gone through that with fuel lines especially on fuel injected engines as re pressure !! Also same on any air lines like on air jacks same plastic tube with pressure fittings !! 👍
EXCELLENT advice! Thank you for the video.
Thank you for your advice on the sprinter as well!
very very helpful tips! thinking of buying a diesel heater soon.
I installed one of these in my travel trailer (caravan). It came out of a wrecked semi truck (transport). Nearly all truck manufacture's here in the States use the same heaters in the sleeper berths. Very quiet.
My next project is to install the APU (Aux. Power Unit) from the same wreck to supply house hold electric power and air conditioning. It is also diesel powered and circulates engine coolant thru the vehicle engine block when parked.
I'm surprised that you have not made a video showing how to tap into the fuel tank of the Relay/Boxer/Ducato. This would be super useful for many as I can't find a good how to.
Hi Matt, I will be showing an install of a Truma D6E soon in which I tap into my tank
Awesome tips!
Great video, thanks. I know someone who had the air intake pipe squashed and killed the heater so definitely try to mount that pipe somewhere as protected as possible.
I bought one of these heaters so this is a great video for me. The only thing I think you need change if using the t5s own tank is the pick up pipe. The one that comes in the kit,the nut is to big and doesn't fit on the sender. I got the proper one for about £12 I think.
yeah I have bought a few of the much slimmer erberspacher ones
Great tips. Very informative, Thank you!
Sprinters and Masters have an aux feed fitted on the sender, it's capped off and is really simple to use. My Ducato had a hatch like your Boxer but bizarrely it did not line up with the sender! External tank to the rescue.
That’s super useful having a pre fitted aux point!
I agree complete with you - thank you for your video, instructions, presentation etc.
I fix and customize vehicles since many years. So I use good parts, to get run without problems.
ie a cheap clamp can become terrible. But no One wants to get this.
So I have a box with good clamps in different sizes.
This shown green tube roll is ie in use for the water system by the windscreen wipers.
Or at fish tanks.
But not for fuel. There are bigger rubber tubes with textile reinforced - mounted in vehicles.
With a small pump like these diesel pumps, you need small tubes.
Made of material, who stays solid, while the pump is soaking.
= you said it right.
Here in germany I use light oil for heating. Even to fill a diesel heater tank.
Because it costs the half price = cheaper as diesel fuel.
And I have 4.500 litres light oil at home.
But it is illegal, to drive a diesel car with light oil.
Starting year 2021, the diesel price climbs up to seven Euro-cents more per litre.
Here in germany.
You can say, a running diesel heater needs not much diesel.
ie a 5 kw heater, who makes 2 kw heating, needs less diesel and less noise, as a 2 kw heater.
But if you let run the diesel heater several hours per day, it will need his fuel. And this costs his price.
thanks and thank you for all the information!
Thanks for the tips dude! - I was going to fit the tank that came with the kit but I think ill just plumb in the sender on my Ducato!
The vw t4 has a round metal panel under the passenger seats unscrew that and you have access to the top of the fuel tank/sender it means unbolting the seats but easier than dropping the fuel tank 😉
I was very happy to find this access hatch when I installed a heater on a friends t4 last summer
Ah that paper insulated hose again you get reinforced it’s not as cheep though🙈!! But we used it on air ducting to and from brake ducting !! And it’s way more flexible without kinking !!
Very interesting, l hope we get to see you install it 😊
I just got my heater installed at the garage I use who also convert camper vans. My fuel comes directly from the van tank, but that pick up pipe in the kit is not required. Instead the fuel line is spliced using a "T" piece. I also purchased a mounting plate with 65mm turret so only one 125mm diameter hole needs cut on the floor, my heater is mounted under the drivers seat and I have a 2kw heater which is adequite.
You are correct about that green tubing, the minute he saw that he said you will need some descent fuel grade tubing.
I wired mine into my fuse box even though it has a 15A inline fuse. I don't want the display runing constantly and when my van is parked up and not in use I use the power isolation switch mounted beside my leisure battery to power off.
I found it strange that 5kw heaters are cheaper than 2kw.
Cheers matey, some great info! I may look into fuel line splicing!
Do you have a link for the mounting plate?
@@Mike-hf2bc Just look on eBay for 60mm diesel heater turret. You can buy one for £12.99
Thank you for this vide, I've learned a lot from watching this. (And this is the 2nd time I've watched it).
Thank you!
For the inlet pipe I made a mandrel from a broomstick which I screwed in a threaded rod into. The mandrel can be used to make a coil out of (what I use) 1,6mm thick mig welding wire.
One can also use the thicker gardening wire or simply fencing wire.
The coil can be fed over the flimsy pipe which keeps it from kinking or deforming very easily. In general one has to be careful how such pipes are mounted and routed...
Excellent!
Awesome detailed video amen. Just subscribed! Thanks...
So I used the soft line that you said not to use... And I noticed today that the line had micro cracks all the way up it after some moderate use... I installed it about 5 months ago. So yeah time to get the nylon one and change them over
ok what have you done with Hugh ..... your videos are too good, the old guy was much more fun to poke holes in what he did. This Hugh Mk11 is on point LOL
haha cheers David!
ive been using the intake and exhaist tubes for years that came with my heater.. no problems with the intake getting clogged or the pipe squished.. you just have to protect it whern you install it that you have the exhaust pointing toward the back of thre van / bus / RV so that you dont oush dirt, bugs, water, etc into the exhaist while you are driving.
If you buy a new sender unit for a Transporter it comes with an extra outlet for a diesel heater.
Oh awesome!
I found the pump very noisy on first installation. Now mounted in a diecast box with filter. The box is on vibration mounts on the caravan chassis rear. I can just hear the pump faintly when in side, if I want to and that is loud enough. Mine is through its own switch at the battery. On at the start of a trip and off on return home. I kept hot air hose to one length and one vent for a 21 ft heavily insulated van in Australian climate. All good.
Perfect timing, been looking into diesel heaters for my build
All the cutaway vans I have had in the U.S. already have the dip tube installed in the fuel tank from the factory. You only need to pull the rubber cap off and hook up.
So use direct fused positive to battery
Allowing to cool down and save your PCB electronic printed circuit board .👍
Bro drew a picture! Awesome video!
fuel pump tip, spray a little shot of wd40 into the pump before you start priming, that way it has a drop of lube to work with before it gets diesel boom!
If you're going to recommend alternatives, it would help if you were specific. 'You need this, sort of, hard nylon stuff' is no good. We need specs.
I fitted mine like Mels Van World does his installs.
Buy a more suitable custom sized tank online that fits your location, I only had space for a small 5 litre (ask for a lid with one way valve)
Buy a fuel outlet tube that fits at the top of the tank. In my case this has two benefits - the tank can't leak fuel at a low point like the standard tanks and you don't need the fuel filter as any impurities sit in the bottom of the tank. Especially because my filter when it was fitted being a cheap part leaked diesel.
Some great info Mark, I personally would still always add a filter but you could get a decent one for pretty cheap
For fresh air intake. Try some flexible conduit . It's can withstand heat but won't crush and is flexible . Also if your heater loses power. You can supplement air flow . So u don't ruin it .
the reason they changed from the side filling cap to the one you have with the filling port in the middle is because there is less chance of diesel leakage as its splashing about in there. You do not want any diesel anywhere in your van and its best to either tap into the vehicle supply(difficult for most)or fit a separate external tank. Tanks under the bonnet are not recommended as you also dont want any diesel in the engine bay.
the return fuel line is a perfect picup.alot of companies give u an exorst thats 2-3 mm to big & use exorst paste .
It's so interssesting
Nicely explained. Thank you very much 👍🏽
The last tip about overheating the PCB board is why I don't put the heater on a switch. While the controller draws a bit of power even on off, after the heater fully shuts down and cooled, and only when I don't plan to use the heater for the night (say, when I'm done camping in the cold), will I disconnect the controller to prevent a parasitic draw to the house/aux battery.
If you can't find an air inlet pipe that is more robust consider to attach a larger steel pipe around it for protection.
Thanks so much for the tips!
Anudda tip for insulating exhaust 'hot' pipe can actually double as 'heat exchanger'. Coil a copper pipe (moving liquid, I E oil or water) around exhaust pipe n U got free heated water (5w /12v water pump). Slip anuud larger pipe over windings after taping exhaust tape around copper n U hav a heat exchange going n a safer contact wid odda materials.
Being an engineer, we pulled one of these apart in the work shop, straight to the point my life is worth more than £90, its that price foor a reason, their shite
icve had one shut off while it was running full bl;ast.. it smelled a little hot but didnt die.. for some reason the fuse popped while the heater was on.. personally i dont care for these.. I like the coolant version better because it can pre-heat my engine.. so ive switched to the coolant units that keep the coolant warm and then I use the interior heater fans to keep the cabin warm (mine are in Busses and not caravans)
We are designing a small add-on interface that will go between the controller and heater on the blue wire. the interface will only have two wires to splice in (blue and ground) it wont stop you using the heater or controller in any way however what it does is if the heater is running in a low setting after a set time it will take over control and ramp up the heater for 5 mins at full burn then it will revert back to your own lower settings, after a little while it will do it again. what this does is help stop the heater clogging up with soot by giving it time to burn it out caused by running the heater low for too long. this is what happens in the more expensive units of Webasto and Erberspacher
Another great tip if the unit is the 230v type get a UPC
The rubber pipe is better than nylon hose and is a necessity in a boat. Get a better exhaust and use the the existing aluminium one for air intake. Use the simplest on off control unit as less to go wrong. Mount where easily accessible and they're so cheap you can just get a spare if you have problems. Run on maximum power regularly to clean the carbon build up.
The Mercedes-Benz Sprinter has an Extra fuel outlet for extra fuel needs. Very easy to do.
Thanks for making an excellent video
I installed one of these on my garden workshop, it was a pig to fit, but once in its a godsend. I use paraffin for fuel, only thing wrong with it is, the amps, on start up I have to turn off any other electrical draw in the workshop. It takes 5-10 minutes for it to warm up and drop its amps. Then I can turn on the solar electrics and all is fine. Massive other tip is on shutdown let it shutdown by itself dont just turn off the machine. It stops it choking up with coke. My health and safety inspection on my workshop they made me fit a Carbon Monoxide detector above it, and a smoke detector, oh the exhaust gets mega mega hot, I wrapped my in a silicone,
Cheers Richard, they do draw a ton of amps on startup! Yeah I mention about letting it do its run down cycle, don't want the control board melting. Another good tip on wrapping the exhaust if it passes near important stuff
Yes I have 07 fiat ducato campervan and it's the same
I never hear anybody mention OC detector should be the first thing it has some kind of built-in one I wouldn't trust it anytime you can bust in a small enclosed area you should have that on the wall stay safe
Questions: 1. how is the fuel efficiency ... 2. What do you think of a fuel filter 3. What is their warranty if you know?
hi david, depends on the heat output selected but:
ruclips.net/user/johnmck1147
has some great info and I think he mentions fuel usage amounts. the fuel filter seems fine. A little flimsy and worthy of an upgrade but works none the less.
don't think there is a warranty on these, more a case of as it costs under £100 if it breaks you buy another, which is a shame.
wow i have had issues with mine blowing exhaust fumes back into the van so i have had to cut it off, didnt realise the importance of letting it run down. very helpful thanks
Hi Hugh, been using that green fuel line for 2 plus years now without problems infact I did buy the harder nylon fuel line to replace it. I checked it around a month ago (before winter) just to check the green line was holding up and it still looks brand new after 2 years, but I have the other nylon type with the rubber ends as a back up. I also made a aluminium heat sheild that fits between the fuel line and the exhaust that fixed by the 2 main unit bolts that come through the floor.
good to hear yours is still going strong
Garden fish pond hose is great for air intake plus a cold air filter from a cheap moped is brill
Excellent thanks
good stuff here
Regarding the nylon fuel line and the click clicking from the fuel pump. You suggest to “soft mount” the fuel line to reduce the fuel pump clicking sound. Could you please explain what soft mounting means? A valuable video, so thank you.
Great video as always 👍
As said, the fuel tank access is the same as on the Jumper (relay), Boxer and Ducato (I own a Ducato). I think it also applies to the Ram Promaster as this van is called in the US.
A small suggestion: shorten the length of the fuel line in the tank. Make sure its 5-10cm shorter than the depth of the tank.
That makes sure the heater can’t draw the tank to empty, it will shutdown due to lack of fuel, while you still have enough to start and drive 😀
And make sure you use proper wiring gauge. Startup current requires some more power than regular running, so use at least 2.5mm2 wiring (very short runs) and preferably 4mm2
Finally, i’d like to spraypaint the tubes and jubilee clips with black or transparant paint. (I used heat resistent black for the exhaust silencer, pipe and clips). I really dont trust the chinese stuff and think they will rust almost instantly once installed underneath, so i’d like to add some layer of additional protection.
You might go for stainless steel clips (i think the ones who came with the heaters aren’t)
For the fuel pump, mount it as close to the tank as possible. If you need to run a long fuel line, extend the line between pump and heater, and not between tank and pump. First startup will take some restarts since you have to fill the whole line.
some great tips there, cheers matey!
May be able to use flexible electrical conduit fery strong
It's funny what you say about the air intake because I ordered yesterday an exhaust pipe to replace it.
Boom I read your mind
Where did you order another exhaust?
@@nmartin5551 you can get them on amazon or ebay 20-30 bucks
Hi , rubber tubing for the air inlet pipe.
Coolant pipe from any motor factors.
Also the air tube has to be the same length as the exhaust pipe.
1 huge tip is most vans only need 2kw - 5kw is far to much for a van & you end up running them so low & they soot up & fail. 2kw is smaller & takes lest space. They sell 5kw as 2kw because they have changed the software on the controller so BE CAREFUL look for the real 2kg ;)
Good points, if you already have the 5kw one though you can run it on full for a little while every so often to burn out the soot.
Pretend I'm thick as s**t (cos I am). How do I know a real 2kw from a throttled 5kw?
shoots , i have a 5kw for the back of my pick-up truck cap ...... i ran it for the 1st time today , not inside the cap... thing is radical. I was laughing how strong it was... is there anything on the fuel end , additives that could help with that or just run her full blast every now and then ? 🤘🏼
Searching Life yeah if it’s the 5kw just run full blast every now and then to de-soot mate. It’s critical to do this because it will fail if you don’t.
Royce Munday hey mate genuinely there a lot smaller buddy look at the sizes the de-tuned 5kg are much bigger & they make them run at 2kw.. so definitely look at sizes in this case smaller is definitely better ;)
Great video, thanks a lot!
Useful video I’ve installed one recently in 16plate boxer wanted to tap into sender unit but forums are saying removing sender unit can be awkward also read something about having limited time to refit sender unit as possible immobiliser issues for some reason , I opted for a tank like Mel uses for now also put the pump underneath on the chassis cross section much quieter , if you manage to tap into sender can you make a video be awesome 👍
Cheers about that, I will definitely show me installing the heater
Some good tips there but a few incorrect statements but such a useful video. The jubilee clips are absolutely rubbish I invest in good quality stainless steel ones every fitting. The pumps can vary in fuel delivery pulses, these can come with any one of 3 different rated pumps starting at 0.16 ML per pulse, the 5KW heater generally comes with the 0.22 ML pump. The pump delivers fuel in pulses which is why the green fuel line is not good as it stretches and pulses with each pump action which the rigid fuel line does not but this can be compensated for in the heater settings. Each heater acts differently and should be tuned after fitting depending on its fitting and fuel line used. The pumps is a solenoid based pump and requires absoluteley no lubrication whatsoever. This is why it can run on other fuels which have no lubricationg actions such as kerosene.
Thank you. I use kerosene to heat the house and I was just about to ask if this heater can work on kerosene but I read your comment, and the next question is if I can use a 20 L different tank. I don't see why not. Any comments are welcome. Bye.
Thank you. I use kerosene to heat the house and I was just about to ask if this heater can work on kerosene but I read your comment, and the next question is if I can use a 20 L different tank. I don't see why not. Any comments are welcome. Bye.
@@uibesue You can use as big as a tank as you like. Just make sure it's approved to hold fuel.
I believe it does require lubrication. It's metal on metal. Search for diesel heater videos by John McK 47. He has an excellent series of videos on these heaters.
Part 5 is all about using Kerosene.
Great overall video however this you need to take to your other wiring even though that is fused in theater it needs to have a fuse at the positive connection point/ distribution whatever every Hardware has to have its own fuse if you put that in there and that wire shorts out in between the back of the van and the battery the wire would literally turn into the toaster oven doesn't matter what kind of fuses in the heater I do like how you mention the cool down process so
good vid man !!!!!!! very helpful