Thank you. I have purchased my diesel heater. My first mistake would have been changing to automotive fuel hose. Second mistake, the muffler set too high. You have saved me a lot of heartache.
This is clearly the simplest yet most articulate explanation of truly important details leading an inexperienced installer to achieve a proper installation. Extremely useful. Complementary notions of the overall process can be found in other videos on the Web. Thank you so much. You’re a truly competent communicator. 👏👏🌿
Leaving this here for later ;) Thank you for your time. Position pump 30' angle with arrow pointing up. Muffler water drain hole pointing town. Exhaust pipe should be higher than muffler so moisture can drip out. Dont pinch fuel line. Double check fuel filter direction. Position air intake so muck doesnt hit and clog it whilst driving. Base plate transfers heat, beware. Add stand pipe inside fuel tank to avoid debris. Prime pump before starting heater. Point exhaust away and off the side of vehicle. Carbon monoxide detector
Great content! Directly addressing the SPECIFIC issues of installation, all educational. No bs intro, fancy graphics or overly vlogging. Keep it up, simple is better!!!! 😀
Great tips - thanks! Tip number 8 though: that metal plate is to go under the floor (outside) if the floor it is thinner than 1.5mm. That big black gasket on the bottom of the heater is to create an air-tight seal, preventing exhaust fumes from entering the vehicle. Leaving air gap between the bottom of the heater and the surface you're attaching it to defeats the object of this gasket. Try as you might, you're very unlikely to make a perfect seal where the exhaust pipe attaches to the heater. Even a tiny leak in the exhaust can release fatal doses of carbon monoxide into the vehicle. Sorry to poke holes, but it is seriously dangerous. Anyway, thanks again for the tips - trying to decipher the manual this thing comes with is seriously challenging!
I'm thinking about this baseplate, I was going to mount it directly to the floor (painted marine plywood) but now I'm wondering just how hot it'll get...
@@jiri4023 mine's on plywood with the baseplate on top - just need plenty of clearance around the exhaust pipe underneath because that does get very hot.
@@tommoore7348 Thanks for the quick reply Tom! OK, shouldn't be a problem then as I used a much bigger hole saw on the ply than the diameter of the pipes. Now I'm just worried about installing the fuel tank kit correctly and sucking some diesel out until the pump to help it prime faster and safer. Fun.
@@jiri4023 I'd also say make sure the exhaust outlet is sealed to the outside. For me that just meant attaching the basplate to the ply floor with sealant. Maybe get a carbonmonoxide detector too just to be safe. Yes, gotta love the taste of diesel in the morning :)
I used a strip of 50mm x 0.5 mm steel strip to line the cut edges of my 18mm mounting board. I cut it carefully to give a spring fit and glued it with car body acrylic mastic. My exhaust shoots up my chimney I did not use the muffler.
Why put the air intake outside the vehicle it would draw in ice cold air that needs to be heated better to have the air intake inside the vehicle drawing already warmed air,I have had mine set up for two years like this without a problem.Hope this helps.
@@davegreenwood2687 For one thing, you are sucking air out of your living space, so how is that going to be equalized? Is it going to suck cold air and moisture in thru leaks? For another, when you are burning fuel, it atomizes better when cold, just like with your engine.
_I like to add you can use the fuel pump horizontally, providing you use a vac pump to get the small amount of air out. You can use any 4mm OD x 2mm ID fuel or hard nylon line. For short-run like yours, you can use rubber/ silicone, but it's best to use a hard line at all times. If your metering pump doesn't have an arrow, just remember the connection is always going forward for the flow. When it comes to the fuel tank, those little square pads allow a slight tilt to get more fuel usage. It might be best to do a top-down fuel line, lest likely of leaks and easier to change out fuel tanks down the road. Those tanks seem to split after awhile. Not all, but 60% do! If you do a top-down, you can have any tank you want and fit your needs._
Let us agree to disagree on most of your points. Six out of 10 of these fuel tanks are splitting? The consumer protection agency would be having a field day.
Although I don't have one of these heaters, it's valuable info for anyone that does. Thanks for taking the trouble to warn owners of problems in use of these heaters.
A solid video! Thanks for taking the time to share what you learned with the rest of the community! It's people and accounts like this that make van life more accessible!
Great list, especially about the fuel direction flow thru the filter. There really ought to be an arrow. Only thing I'd add would be that the relief hole (weeping port) on the muffler should be the LOWEST POINT on the whole exhaust output line.( so all condensation ends up exiting there.
I find your vid pretty interesting, especially what u mention about the muffler positioning...I am using a chinese heater at home. In order to do so, I got myself some long pipes and also I made a small modification by leaving the inlet pipe inside tbe house so that I am 100% sure that no toxic gases could get inside. I feel it is doing its job now for a reasonable amount of diesel. Hope it last many many years
These are great tips. Id love a video where you go a bit more in depth explaining how to do some of the trickier stuff like priming the fuel and inserting the stand pipe inside the tank. Thanks Brad
You press ok and down at the same time and it should flash "off" press up or down or left or right so it says "on" you have to prime it a few times until all air is out if necessary
Dude, you win the Internet for the Day. Excellent video. Your #12 is critical. I just broke down and bought an almost $200 personal CO monitor/alert, the AV8 version of Sensorcon. This version let's you set the CO level at which to alarm you. I am sleeping in sailboats, campers, and cabins, and actually fly small airplanes, all of which the CO monitor will be with me. Even though I have a portable Chinese diesel heater for my squaredrop, which runs outside my camper, you just never know if some weird meteorological phenomenon will blow the exhaust back into the camper.
@@nomadbrad503 Yeah, I think if you are a person that's going to be spending a lot of time in small places that use such heaters as these, $200 is over a bunch of years is justified. One thing, though, they have to be calibrated and also the sensors have a surprisingly short lifespan. Keep that in mind for anyone that is going to look at them.
Very Informative. I am taking my time installing my Diesel Heater. Having to understand the component of installation is a hassle free. This video is deffenaty for everyone to look into, and take the're time to make the installation correctly. This Video is an A++
@@nomadbrad503 Thank You, Installation was a success. But I was wondering, Here in Boston, Ma winter is brutal. I install the Diesel pump in the out side of the van. You think it recommended having it install inside instead? I just install it out side, incase the pump make too much noise.
Perfect timing, I have purchased one of theses and it arrived today. Thanks for the tips. I’ve watch a few videos on the insulation of these and hardly any of what you have mentioned in your video were mentioned in the others…. top marks 😊👍
Some additional advice: * Connect the heater directly to your battery with no switch, or it becomes a fire hazard. Check out this video on another way to prevent a flat battery: ruclips.net/video/TWC5oGU_QWY/видео.html * The voltage drop on a long cable is significant, my battery voltage at terminals was 13.2 but as the heater fired up it only got 8V (!) in before it flashed an error message for low power and shut itself off. The cable run was completely insignificant at 1.5mm for a 5m run. Check a mm2/awg voltage drop and ampere chart. I will go for 4mm if I do the same run or 6mm if I do it the proper way in my set up (which would require ca 9m of cable). * You can prime the hose by pressing OK and Down at the same time, just be careful not to overprime it. * To prime the hose until the pump, you can pick up a small syringe and pull the fuel through. Just make sure to be ready for the mess! * Tapping into your fuel tank if you have a Relay/Ducato/Boxer is actually very easy and saves a lot of headache for handling the extra fuel tank and mounting it somewhere. * If you mount the heater safely with the plate, you don't need to drill individual holes in your floor for all the pipes - you can just drill one huge hole. This way for sure nothing is touching and rubbing against the inlet/outlet, the fuel line, or the pump cable. * The pump cable fits neatly in the slit in the base plate, no need to drill a separate hole. * The length of the pump cable helps show the max distance the pump can be from the heater (1.2m). This is in the manual but caused some confusion for me and I had to remount the pump. * The heater needs plenty of space around it as it gets very hot. * The heater air inlet and outlets shouldn't be too close to each other (reusing the same air) inside your living space. Great video and advice. Wish I had found this before I installed mine a few days ago. Looks like I got the fuel filter in the wrong direction, and I did the opposite angle for the pump. Thanks!
One of the biggest things that go wrong with these cdh is that the DC cable from the heater needs to be upgraded to a higher capacity cable and fused accorondly . I use cable that is rated at 30 Amps and use both the positive and negative cables direct to the battery. These heaters will draw around 9 Amps on start up and voltage drop is a big problem is one of the causes of failure to start and white smoke out of the exhaust pipe. Once the heater is up and running the current drops down to a couple of amps ( depends on temp and fan speed ). I do not use the chassis as a return for the negative wire. A good well charged battery and recharging capabilities is also a must. The backlighting is crap on these heaters and often fails and is hard to read after several months. One reason to fit a master switch into the DC line.
I'm facing this currently - voltage drop is significant and I need to run a very long cable, so I don't think 2.5mm will cut it. Thinking to use a 4mm2 or even 6mm2 cable all the way to the terminals to be on the safe side. For a master switch, I heard that this is not advisable since the heater needs to run it's buildup burn and cool down cycle before it can shut itself off safely. But I found a cool way to prevent a flat battery in this video using a VSR and a simple relay: ruclips.net/video/TWC5oGU_QWY/видео.html
The simple fix is keep the included wiring as short as possible, longer runs of wire need to be a much heavier Guage, but really you need a secondary battery, short as possible wiring and an isolator to be safe and not stranded if it's in something mobile. If you have access to 110volts AC or it's for a structure then a simple solution is a variable output AC to DC converter. You get the ones that are 0-48v DC output up to 480 watts. They are $40-60 and last indefinitely as well as work flawlessly even for multiple heaters, also add some polar power diesel fuel treatment or fuel injection cleaner for better operation. One final tip is the controller that is rectangular and has digital alarm clock LCD font with green characters, and light up red only icons works perfectly after years and years. I have 5 diesel heaters, 2 going right now as I'm a huge fan of these awesome and inexpensive heaters. I use old iron steam radiators to collect and store a ridiculous amount of basically free energy from the exhaust heat.
@@ProlificInvention That's an interesting idea on reusing the exhaust heat. How do you capture this heat and are there any related problems with exhaust flow back pressure? I have a problem with having not received (or I lost) my controller unit. I see your comment about another controller unit. Are they interchangeable?
@@kendonahve924 In my experience the controllers sometimes have different plugs, but if you're good at matching colored wires and splice repairing you should be able to match them up. As far as the steam radiator-no back pressure issues as the input is 1" and basically the hollow inside acts as a giant heavy muffler and is extremely good at extracting all the heat. The exhaust when it finally exits is below 80 degrees. I have a few videos if you go to my channel, click the videos tab, and scroll down to the videos I did last year.
Thank you for making this video. I never would have thought of half of that. My heater arrived wed and I’ll be watching this one more time before install.
Outstanding advice and tips. Hoping to put my heater in the van in Spring. these tips help me plan the installation to reduce issues and problems later. Thank you so much.
Well done Brad! I just finished my second heater install, the first into a vehicle I just sold, the second into a portable case for tenting. I had the pump backwards! And I'm changing the hardware store fuel line to the green supplied one! All before I fire it up this weekend for the first time. Saved me some headaches! Thanks
Please do your self a favor and don't use that green pvc hose it's not made for fuel, please get some of the hard nylon hose , they are cheap and will save you from a lot of problems down the road
They definitely do make clear (blue/green tinted) fuel line that seems to be made of polyvinyl chloride (pvc). The BMW dealer's mechanic used it to replace a length fuel line between the petcock and fuel filter on my old R65 boxer. Never had a problem with it.
This is a good video and you took the time to go over some awesome tips thank you so much - I think the most important thing I've learned about installing 2 heaters in my school bus was the trick using kite string and a small weight to route the fuel tank pieces when you are assembling the fuel tank parts.
Do you mean as a vertical measure? Don't know the name in english, but a line with a weight in the end? A lod. You must explain, I don't think you mean that simple thing.
I think the problem with air in the line is that it doesn't block the flow of fuel but gets to the injector & causes sputtering or the flame to go out. I would install a fuel filter between the tank & the pump and keep a spare filter or 2 on hand. To be more quiet they make a silencer for the air intake and upgraded mufflers that can cut the outside noise level in half. If your heater didn't come with a silencer they go for around $25.
Excellent video. My heater stopped working and although the air blows, it will not get hot. I can smell the raw diesel at the exhaust but it is not igniting completely. The old unit had the most impossible thermostat to operate!
Thanks for the tips 👍 The muffler orientation is particularly insightful. Now we just need someone to create a clear and easily understood owner's manual on how to correctly operate and adjust all the features of the heater using the digital control unit.
I got one of the stand up diesel heaters. First thing I noticed there was no fuel filter, the second, there was a kink in the white nylon fuel hose and a mix of different fuel hoses. The exhaust hose also didn't fit. Luckily I had spares from a previous heater and was able to sort all that out but damn, it's a hit and miss affair with these things. I ditched the little fuel tank and plumbed into my 20 Litre tank. So far so good.
Your video was excellent! Not too much yapping and unnecessary informaion. You were concise and direct with your instruction and whatever pertinent information that you were trying to relay. I originally purchased the heater that is put together. I had to replace it (because it up and stopped working) so I chose this type in the video. Which is a whole production, but it's good to learn and know what you're dealing with (*sometimes) vs just opening the package and using something that you're depending on to work because your mind has you automatically believe and trust that because said product is new, it is good and you'll be good. 👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
Thanks for taking the time to give us your tips. I've got the green vinyl tubing & was planning to swap it for the rigid nylon since folks say that the pumps aren't as happy with the soft stuff. Really appreciate you pointing out the slope & drainage for the muffler. I'd heard that keeping the exhaust clear and short is important but wouldn't have thought about moisture build-up being a concern.
Hi 👋🏽, thanks for the missing advices. I installed my all in one diesel heater inside my van, my air intake is inside too, cause I have enough fresh air flow inside my vehicle. The exhaust is mounted outside straight down, no curves at all, so the moisture can’t stuck anywhere.
2 or 3 mufflers close together and in-line will greatly reduce exhaust noise and provide zero restriction. Provided the muffler is the straight-through design,
the reason for hard fuel line is that every time pump pulses it would cause the line to expand rather than moving the fuel up in the line to the heater. so you would end up having inconsistent fuel delivery. and that messes up the computer trying to adjust fuel to the demanded heat setting.
In the instructions for my Webasto petrol heater it says to install the muffler as close to the unit as is appropriate for your install. Thanks for the tip about the weep hole, I had mine mounted sideways! 👍
The simple fix is keep the included wiring as short as possible, longer runs of wire need to be a much heavier Guage, but really you need a secondary battery, short as possible wiring and an isolator to be safe and not stranded if it's in something mobile. If you have access to 110volts AC or it's for a structure then a simple solution is a variable output AC to DC converter. You get the ones that are 0-48v DC output up to 480 watts. They are $40-60 and last indefinitely as well as work flawlessly even for multiple heaters, also add some polar power diesel fuel treatment or fuel injection cleaner for better operation. One final tip is the controller that is rectangular and has digital alarm clock LCD font with green characters, and light up red only icons works perfectly after years and years. I have 5 diesel heaters, 2 going right now as I'm a huge fan of these awesome and inexpensive heaters. I use old iron steam radiators to collect and store a ridiculous amount of basically free energy from the exhaust heat.
How do you know you have CO being produced? It is odorless, colorless and tasteless. It's pretty unlikely to be produced and even less likely to be detected.
Thankyou for describing all of this in great detail, it saved me a lot of time thinking about whether this is right choice for me, it is clearly not but at least now I know! You're a legend Brad, keep up the good work :)
Very cool video cause Im about to install the same system and I would not have known any of the good information in this video.Thank you for saving me potential issues
Thank you for this informative video. You covered every bit of information I found to be confusing. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Appreciate it!
Amazing video. Really clean explanation. Thanks for your time to share this manual. I have a question, what you recommend about hot shower water, I don´t like the idea of "gas". Thank you very much
Fantastic .OK any answers would be great .so I have just got one and it's for my cabin as can't get electric to it .so a couple of questions. One does it make a lot of noise as my neighbour is about 50 feet away and 2 can I extend my air intake so its further away from exhaust
The heater is not very loud. Loudest part is the fuel pump. You can install the heater in a cabinet or closet to reduce operational noise. I do believe intake/ exhaust could be extended a little. If you point them in opposite directions, should be sufficient
use wire like this example, ruclips.net/video/j71Hnp307jw/видео.html Or like me, tie a short length of thin string around nipple near barb, then blow other end of sting out your hole from filler opening, using compressed air, then just pull it thru. ps, i modified my nipples, by putting extra feed holes in the sides of them, and making fine brass gauze covers for them as an extra pre filter. Due to my intake nipple mods, my tanks will drain to bone dry, rather than stop when still 10+mm left.
Exactly. I drilled the hole for the nipple. Then ran a wire down through the hole from the fill neck then slid nipple down wire. Not ideal but it works
Hi I just installed this diesel heater & looks like I made the common mistake of waiting for the fuel to get from the pump that I primed but was working when it got there it was only short run say 200 ml, I have a problem with white smoke it doesn’t clear & the fan runs slow can u advise pls , great video on the 12 tips thanks for the advice👍
They come with a 2.5 gallon fuel tank. Mine lasts about 3 nights if I run it from 7pm to 8am. Once i get the temperature right, I drop it down to the lowest setting
Love the tips !! I too will be installing a diesel heater in my 6x10. I looked for your install video but it does not seem to be posted. Will you ever post it or is the snippet you had in the video all we get to see. I think I am going to mount the fuel tank inside the back door so that the fuel won't gel. Yes it might smell like diesel in the tiny but having the tank inside I can mount the heater in the rear next to it so less of a fuel run...Thanks for sharing your tips!!
Hi Brad, can you explain the electric power connection of the heater. Can I hook it up directly to a 12v battery, or do I need something in between? I don’t want my battery to fry the unit.
Thank you so much brilliant advice straight to the point no messing around and yes everybody get carbon monoxide detector with a new battery you never know it could save your life thank you for posting
Contrary to bad advice up higher in this thread(I think) and other videos, INSTALL THE PUMP at a 10 to 30 degrees PUMPING UP or you will experience issues or premature failure. That's not straight up, but in the direction close to straight up. THAT IS ONE OF THE MOST CRITICAL POINTS.
I had left you a long description for your install and maintenance and operation of the heater... alas it wad deleted by either the channel owner or Y. t., why? ...beats me! Then I ;tried to send to you thru your channel, but you have no content at all, nothing to pass you a message! ... sorry.
Well done, all the basic's, when I am watching people RUclips installing the heater you see the filter the wrong way around, no priming done, pump at wrong angles, the list goes on
4:39 so, a hard nylon fuel tube is preferred from the outlet of the pump to the unit because that is what is under pressure? the line from the diesel fuel tank to the inlet of the pump, you'll be alright using the green tubing?
Since the filming of this video I have installed several with the softer green tubing. It works just fine. It’s okay to use whatever fuel line is included with the unit.
So this is all good advice except for the part about a "stand pipe extension" to not use the fuel on the bottom of the tank. The fuel filter adequately protects the pump/heater from debris, why reduce your overall capacity. If there is so much dirt and small particles in your fuel that this would even remotely be considered an option you should be pre filtering the fuel.
It's common practice. Just a simple form of "pre-filter". Diesel is considered a "dirty fuel", so any extra filtration is good. I definitely wouldn't call it bad advice.
It’s not just dirt and debris in the fuel that’s the reason for the standpipe, it’s also necessary to help prevent water going in to the heater. The filter (especially not the cheap one supplied) won’t stop water. All fuels contain some water, and if the tank isn’t full there will also be moisture in the air in the tank. That moisture will condense out in cold temperatures and will collect in the bottom of the tank. Every fuel tank with a bottom exit should have a small standpipe.
Also you want a 90° angle pointing towards the ground at your mounting bracket for exhaust pipe maximum 150mm before end then adjust to 10° off angle away from the vehicle. Or possible 🔥.
For les problem put a pamp closest as is posible to the heater. With that your fuel line will breath less and pamp strock will be strongest. Before pamp put a shut-off walve so if you must muve heater easy is Close a valve and kip fuel into the line then fill line again. But there is one more reason for valve got on fuel line. You will use valve to cut off diesel when you purge to heating chamber if is overfile with diesel. And that hapend sometime.
I add a diesel fuel conditioner like Power Service or Howes to take care of moisture in the fuel and to also add lubricity to the #2 diesel fuel I use.
I have a 2016 Transit Connect which will have the heater mounted inside by the driver’s side rear door. There is a hollow “tube” on each side with the top open (plastic cap) on the passenger side. I will have the exhaust pipe passing outside through the opening covered by the cap, then turning horizontal to mount the muffler pointing rearward. The intake will come in through the same “tube” on the driver’s side where I had to drill a big hole at the top. My intention is to mount the plate to the top of two 1x4” boards oriented on their edges thus creating a space open at both ends for the intake and exhaust and fuel to enter the heater through the plate. Since cabin air can pass freely under the plate, I’m hoping the plate will stay cool enough. Do you see any problems with this?
if you install the fuel filter wrong and start using it before realizing is it wrong it maybe a good idea to replace the filter because if you simply correct the filter you will put any contamination into the pump or even heater. can the muffler be placed before the hose or inline between 2 hoses (get a second hose)?
Dude the vid was really good, you just got to the points and it was super helpful. I'll definitely be using these tips with my install. Thanks very much
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Thank you. I have purchased my diesel heater. My first mistake would have been changing to automotive fuel hose. Second mistake, the muffler set too high.
You have saved me a lot of heartache.
I’m happy to hear that!
This is the best group of instruction pointers I have seen, and I've looked a lot.
I’m so happy to hear this ❤️❤️
This is clearly the simplest yet most articulate explanation of truly important details leading an inexperienced installer to achieve a proper installation. Extremely useful. Complementary notions of the overall process can be found in other videos on the Web. Thank you so much. You’re a truly competent communicator. 👏👏🌿
Glad it was helpful!
Leaving this here for later ;) Thank you for your time.
Position pump 30' angle with arrow pointing up. Muffler water drain hole pointing town. Exhaust pipe should be higher than muffler so moisture can drip out. Dont pinch fuel line. Double check fuel filter direction. Position air intake so muck doesnt hit and clog it whilst driving. Base plate transfers heat, beware. Add stand pipe inside fuel tank to avoid debris. Prime pump before starting heater. Point exhaust away and off the side of vehicle. Carbon monoxide detector
Thanks
Great content! Directly addressing the SPECIFIC issues of installation, all educational. No bs intro, fancy graphics or overly vlogging. Keep it up, simple is better!!!! 😀
thanks! i hate watching videos with all the filler. I just want to know the details!
@@nomadbrad503 Agreed! But you don't need the shiny stuff if you're actually knowledgeable in your field. It shows, glad I encountered you!
The pump tilt is also to seperate sediment as it only delivers 5ml of fuel per 250 pulses !
You're right about the cavitation bubbles. Good to share !
Thanks for the information 😊
Great tips - thanks! Tip number 8 though: that metal plate is to go under the floor (outside) if the floor it is thinner than 1.5mm. That big black gasket on the bottom of the heater is to create an air-tight seal, preventing exhaust fumes from entering the vehicle. Leaving air gap between the bottom of the heater and the surface you're attaching it to defeats the object of this gasket. Try as you might, you're very unlikely to make a perfect seal where the exhaust pipe attaches to the heater. Even a tiny leak in the exhaust can release fatal doses of carbon monoxide into the vehicle. Sorry to poke holes, but it is seriously dangerous. Anyway, thanks again for the tips - trying to decipher the manual this thing comes with is seriously challenging!
Thanks Tom!
I'm thinking about this baseplate, I was going to mount it directly to the floor (painted marine plywood) but now I'm wondering just how hot it'll get...
@@jiri4023 mine's on plywood with the baseplate on top - just need plenty of clearance around the exhaust pipe underneath because that does get very hot.
@@tommoore7348 Thanks for the quick reply Tom! OK, shouldn't be a problem then as I used a much bigger hole saw on the ply than the diameter of the pipes. Now I'm just worried about installing the fuel tank kit correctly and sucking some diesel out until the pump to help it prime faster and safer. Fun.
@@jiri4023 I'd also say make sure the exhaust outlet is sealed to the outside. For me that just meant attaching the basplate to the ply floor with sealant. Maybe get a carbonmonoxide detector too just to be safe. Yes, gotta love the taste of diesel in the morning :)
I used a piece of 1/4" cement board between the plate and the floor of my cargo trailer.
That’s a great idea for a heat shield
I used a strip of 50mm x 0.5 mm steel strip to line the cut edges of my 18mm mounting board. I cut it carefully to give a spring fit and glued it with car body acrylic mastic. My exhaust shoots up my chimney I did not use the muffler.
Why put the air intake outside the vehicle it would draw in ice cold air that needs to be heated better to have the air intake inside the vehicle drawing already warmed air,I have had mine set up for two years like this without a problem.Hope this helps.
@@davegreenwood2687 For one thing, you are sucking air out of your living space, so how is that going to be equalized? Is it going to suck cold air and moisture in thru leaks? For another, when you are burning fuel, it atomizes better when cold, just like with your engine.
By FAR the BEST HOW TO VID on installing this flavour of Heater. Thanks. 💙
I appreciate that 😊
Nice video. Short sweet to the point. Very helpful. No BS music and graphics. Thanks for keeping it on track!
I hate long intros and BS...lets just get to the point
the various manufacturers should sponsor you. excellent video, my heater arrives tomorrow and your tips will help tremendously .
Thank you for watching. I would love a sponsorship ✌🏻😊
Couldn't be happier that I stumbled on your video.
Detailed, no BS cutesy crap. Just facts .
Excellent video.
Thank you!
I’m so glad you found it helpful ✌🏻😎
_I like to add you can use the fuel pump horizontally, providing you use a vac pump to get the small amount of air out. You can use any 4mm OD x 2mm ID fuel or hard nylon line. For short-run like yours, you can use rubber/ silicone, but it's best to use a hard line at all times. If your metering pump doesn't have an arrow, just remember the connection is always going forward for the flow. When it comes to the fuel tank, those little square pads allow a slight tilt to get more fuel usage. It might be best to do a top-down fuel line, lest likely of leaks and easier to change out fuel tanks down the road. Those tanks seem to split after awhile. Not all, but 60% do! If you do a top-down, you can have any tank you want and fit your needs._
These are great pointers ✌🏻
@@nomadbrad503 these pumps create air bubbles must be on angle
@@faffybubs9099 yes... indeed. One should not dream and add more points of failure, just mount it at the proper slant.
Let us agree to disagree on most of your points. Six out of 10 of these fuel tanks are splitting? The consumer protection agency would be having a field day.
Ya unnecessarily add more failure points.. great idea..you must me an engineer
I am installing my diesel heater in a couple of days, thank you for your excellent video.
Thanks for watching!
Although I don't have one of these heaters, it's valuable info for anyone that does. Thanks for taking the trouble to warn owners of problems in use of these heaters.
Thank you so much for watching
A solid video! Thanks for taking the time to share what you learned with the rest of the community! It's people and accounts like this that make van life more accessible!
Thank you for the encouraging feedback
Great list, especially about the fuel direction flow thru the filter. There really ought to be an arrow. Only thing I'd add would be that the relief hole (weeping port) on the muffler should be the LOWEST POINT on the whole exhaust output line.( so all condensation ends up exiting there.
I find your vid pretty interesting, especially what u mention about the muffler positioning...I am using a chinese heater at home. In order to do so, I got myself some long pipes and also I made a small modification by leaving the inlet pipe inside tbe house so that I am 100% sure that no toxic gases could get inside.
I feel it is doing its job now for a reasonable amount of diesel. Hope it last many many years
Thanks for watching, mine has been working great for over 1 year
These are great tips. Id love a video where you go a bit more in depth explaining how to do some of the trickier stuff like priming the fuel and inserting the stand pipe inside the tank. Thanks Brad
You press ok and down at the same time and it should flash "off" press up or down or left or right so it says "on" you have to prime it a few times until all air is out if necessary
Dude, you win the Internet for the Day. Excellent video.
Your #12 is critical. I just broke down and bought an almost $200 personal CO monitor/alert, the AV8 version of Sensorcon.
This version let's you set the CO level at which to alarm you.
I am sleeping in sailboats, campers, and cabins, and actually fly small airplanes, all of which the CO monitor will be with me.
Even though I have a portable Chinese diesel heater for my squaredrop, which runs outside my camper, you just never know if some weird meteorological phenomenon will blow the exhaust back into the camper.
I appreciate that. Good call on the personal co detector
@@nomadbrad503 Yeah, I think if you are a person that's going to be spending a lot of time in small places that use such heaters as these, $200 is over a bunch of years is justified. One thing, though, they have to be calibrated and also the sensors have a surprisingly short lifespan. Keep that in mind for anyone that is going to look at them.
Just starting on the Sprinter Van conversion, trying to prevent newbie mistakes. This is a great video I'll review when I get to this stage. Thanks.
awesome, im happy to help
Very Informative. I am taking my time installing my Diesel Heater. Having to understand the component of installation is a hassle free. This video is deffenaty for everyone to look into, and take the're time to make the installation correctly. This Video is an A++
Good luck with the install
@@nomadbrad503 Thank You, Installation was a success. But I was wondering, Here in Boston, Ma winter is brutal. I install the Diesel pump in the out side of the van. You think it recommended having it install inside instead? I just install it out side, incase the pump make too much noise.
Perfect timing, I have purchased one of theses and it arrived today. Thanks for the tips. I’ve watch a few videos on the insulation of these and hardly any of what you have mentioned in your video were mentioned in the others…. top marks 😊👍
Some additional advice:
* Connect the heater directly to your battery with no switch, or it becomes a fire hazard. Check out this video on another way to prevent a flat battery: ruclips.net/video/TWC5oGU_QWY/видео.html
* The voltage drop on a long cable is significant, my battery voltage at terminals was 13.2 but as the heater fired up it only got 8V (!) in before it flashed an error message for low power and shut itself off. The cable run was completely insignificant at 1.5mm for a 5m run. Check a mm2/awg voltage drop and ampere chart. I will go for 4mm if I do the same run or 6mm if I do it the proper way in my set up (which would require ca 9m of cable).
* You can prime the hose by pressing OK and Down at the same time, just be careful not to overprime it.
* To prime the hose until the pump, you can pick up a small syringe and pull the fuel through. Just make sure to be ready for the mess!
* Tapping into your fuel tank if you have a Relay/Ducato/Boxer is actually very easy and saves a lot of headache for handling the extra fuel tank and mounting it somewhere.
* If you mount the heater safely with the plate, you don't need to drill individual holes in your floor for all the pipes - you can just drill one huge hole. This way for sure nothing is touching and rubbing against the inlet/outlet, the fuel line, or the pump cable.
* The pump cable fits neatly in the slit in the base plate, no need to drill a separate hole.
* The length of the pump cable helps show the max distance the pump can be from the heater (1.2m). This is in the manual but caused some confusion for me and I had to remount the pump.
* The heater needs plenty of space around it as it gets very hot.
* The heater air inlet and outlets shouldn't be too close to each other (reusing the same air) inside your living space.
Great video and advice. Wish I had found this before I installed mine a few days ago. Looks like I got the fuel filter in the wrong direction, and I did the opposite angle for the pump. Thanks!
Thanks!
One of the biggest things that go wrong with these cdh is that the DC cable from the heater needs to be upgraded to a higher capacity cable and fused accorondly . I use cable that is rated at 30 Amps and use both the positive and negative cables direct to the battery. These heaters will draw around 9 Amps on start up and voltage drop is a big problem is one of the causes of failure to start and white smoke out of the exhaust pipe. Once the heater is up and running the current drops down to a couple of amps ( depends on temp and fan speed ). I do not use the chassis as a return for the negative wire. A good well charged battery and recharging capabilities is also a must. The backlighting is crap on these heaters and often fails and is hard to read after several months. One reason to fit a master switch into the DC line.
I'm facing this currently - voltage drop is significant and I need to run a very long cable, so I don't think 2.5mm will cut it. Thinking to use a 4mm2 or even 6mm2 cable all the way to the terminals to be on the safe side.
For a master switch, I heard that this is not advisable since the heater needs to run it's buildup burn and cool down cycle before it can shut itself off safely. But I found a cool way to prevent a flat battery in this video using a VSR and a simple relay: ruclips.net/video/TWC5oGU_QWY/видео.html
The simple fix is keep the included wiring as short as possible, longer runs of wire need to be a much heavier Guage, but really you need a secondary battery, short as possible wiring and an isolator to be safe and not stranded if it's in something mobile. If you have access to 110volts AC or it's for a structure then a simple solution is a variable output AC to DC converter. You get the ones that are 0-48v DC output up to 480 watts. They are $40-60 and last indefinitely as well as work flawlessly even for multiple heaters, also add some polar power diesel fuel treatment or fuel injection cleaner for better operation.
One final tip is the controller that is rectangular and has digital alarm clock LCD font with green characters, and light up red only icons works perfectly after years and years. I have 5 diesel heaters, 2 going right now as I'm a huge fan of these awesome and inexpensive heaters. I use old iron steam radiators to collect and store a ridiculous amount of basically free energy from the exhaust heat.
That's what I did, replaced the #18 wire with #14 because the glow plug wouldn't get hot enough to ignite.
@@ProlificInvention That's an interesting idea on reusing the exhaust heat. How do you capture this heat and are there any related problems with exhaust flow back pressure?
I have a problem with having not received (or I lost) my controller unit. I see your comment about another controller unit. Are they interchangeable?
@@kendonahve924 In my experience the controllers sometimes have different plugs, but if you're good at matching colored wires and splice repairing you should be able to match them up. As far as the steam radiator-no back pressure issues as the input is 1" and basically the hollow inside acts as a giant heavy muffler and is extremely good at extracting all the heat. The exhaust when it finally exits is below 80 degrees. I have a few videos if you go to my channel, click the videos tab, and scroll down to the videos I did last year.
Thank you for making this video. I never would have thought of half of that. My heater arrived wed and I’ll be watching this one more time before install.
Awesome! I’m so happy it helped
Outstanding advice and tips. Hoping to put my heater in the van in Spring. these tips help me plan the installation to reduce issues and problems later. Thank you so much.
Thanks for watching, good luck with the installation
Well done Brad! I just finished my second heater install, the first into a vehicle I just sold, the second into a portable case for tenting. I had the pump backwards! And I'm changing the hardware store fuel line to the green supplied one! All before I fire it up this weekend for the first time. Saved me some headaches! Thanks
Awesome! I’m so glad you made those changes before startup!
Please do your self a favor and don't use that green pvc hose it's not made for fuel, please get some of the hard nylon hose , they are cheap and will save you from a lot of problems down the road
They definitely do make clear (blue/green tinted) fuel line that seems to be made of polyvinyl chloride (pvc). The BMW dealer's mechanic used it to replace a length fuel line between the petcock and fuel filter on my old R65 boxer. Never had a problem with it.
This is a good video and you took the time to go over some awesome tips thank you so much - I think the most important thing I've learned about installing 2 heaters in my school bus was the trick using kite string and a small weight to route the fuel tank pieces when you are assembling the fuel tank parts.
That’s a great idea!
Do you mean as a vertical measure? Don't know the name in english, but a line with a weight in the end? A lod.
You must explain, I don't think you mean that simple thing.
I think the problem with air in the line is that it doesn't block the flow of fuel but gets to the injector & causes sputtering or the flame to go out. I would install a fuel filter between the tank & the pump and keep a spare filter or 2 on hand. To be more quiet they make a silencer for the air intake and upgraded mufflers that can cut the outside noise level in half. If your heater didn't come with a silencer they go for around $25.
The noise from the original pump was bad. With a upgraded version made the fuel pump quite.
Excellent video. My heater stopped working and although the air blows, it will not get hot. I can smell the raw diesel at the exhaust but it is not igniting completely. The old unit had the most impossible thermostat to operate!
That definitely sounds like an ignition problem. Hopefully you can find a solution
Thanks for the tips 👍 The muffler orientation is particularly insightful. Now we just need someone to create a clear and easily understood owner's manual on how to correctly operate and adjust all the features of the heater using the digital control unit.
I agree with that
I got one of the stand up diesel heaters. First thing I noticed there was no fuel filter, the second, there was a kink in the white nylon fuel hose and a mix of different fuel hoses. The exhaust hose also didn't fit. Luckily I had spares from a previous heater and was able to sort all that out but damn, it's a hit and miss affair with these things. I ditched the little fuel tank and plumbed into my 20 Litre tank. So far so good.
I’m glad it’s working out for you 💪🏻
You’re very thorough! This video gives me ease of mind about installing my diesel heater.
Excellent!
Thanks for the detailed video. I'm still very intimidated with assembling it but your video gives me a bit more confidence.
Plan a whole day installing it. It isn't hard to to. It's just a lot of little stuff.
Your video was excellent! Not too much yapping and unnecessary informaion. You were concise and direct with your instruction and whatever pertinent information that you were trying to relay. I originally purchased the heater that is put together. I had to replace it (because it up and stopped working) so I chose this type in the video. Which is a whole production, but it's good to learn and know what you're dealing with (*sometimes) vs just opening the package and using something that you're depending on to work because your mind has you automatically believe and trust that because said product is new, it is good and you'll be good. 👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
Thanks for watching! Over 1 year later and this 5kw heater is still working great
Thanks for taking the time to give us your tips. I've got the green vinyl tubing & was planning to swap it for the rigid nylon since folks say that the pumps aren't as happy with the soft stuff. Really appreciate you pointing out the slope & drainage for the muffler. I'd heard that keeping the exhaust clear and short is important but wouldn't have thought about moisture build-up being a concern.
Thanks for watching, good luck with the install
Hi 👋🏽, thanks for the missing advices. I installed my all in one diesel heater inside my van, my air intake is inside too, cause I have enough fresh air flow inside my vehicle. The exhaust is mounted outside straight down, no curves at all, so the moisture can’t stuck anywhere.
YOUR AIR INTAKE NEEDS TO BE OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE.
2 or 3 mufflers close together and in-line will greatly reduce exhaust noise and provide zero restriction. Provided the muffler is the straight-through design,
the reason for hard fuel line is that every time pump pulses it would cause the line to expand rather than moving the fuel up in the line to the heater. so you would end up having inconsistent fuel delivery. and that messes up the computer trying to adjust fuel to the demanded heat setting.
Absolutely
the internal bore/size ,is important, so do not use "just" some other pipe,get the exact same kind. ( many years as trucker staying warm)
lol it’s so fun seeing friends pop up when I RUclips nomad stuff 🤩
hey rachel! thanks for checking out my video 😎
In the instructions for my Webasto petrol heater it says to install the muffler as close to the unit as is appropriate for your install. Thanks for the tip about the weep hole, I had mine mounted sideways! 👍
So did I! 😂🤷🏻♂️
That was very good! I learn more with every video I watch!
Glad it was helpful!
retired hgv,and trucker here,
learn about your"friend" that keeps you warm, and how to care for him and give him treats,and he will look after you. 🤗
The simple fix is keep the included wiring as short as possible, longer runs of wire need to be a much heavier Guage, but really you need a secondary battery, short as possible wiring and an isolator to be safe and not stranded if it's in something mobile. If you have access to 110volts AC or it's for a structure then a simple solution is a variable output AC to DC converter. You get the ones that are 0-48v DC output up to 480 watts. They are $40-60 and last indefinitely as well as work flawlessly even for multiple heaters, also add some polar power diesel fuel treatment or fuel injection cleaner for better operation.
One final tip is the controller that is rectangular and has digital alarm clock LCD font with green characters, and light up red only icons works perfectly after years and years. I have 5 diesel heaters, 2 going right now as I'm a huge fan of these awesome and inexpensive heaters. I use old iron steam radiators to collect and store a ridiculous amount of basically free energy from the exhaust heat.
Great advice
Thank you VERY much. Well done! My 5kw is producing C Monoxide. I am removing and replacing with a 2kW. Following all your tips closely.
I have a 5kw and it’s been great!
How do you know you have CO being produced? It is odorless, colorless and tasteless. It's pretty unlikely to be produced and even less likely to be detected.
I have the green fuel line, it seems fine, connects DIRECTLY without the black tube...no leaks so far 👍
Fantastic!
Dude I'm installing one of this and you explain so much of what I needed to know. Thank you!! Great info.
Cheers brother! Good luck with the install
very clear, very direct, no wasted time. Thanks. No manual with mine, so the pointers helped.
I try to get to the point! Hate time wasting intros myself
Thankyou for describing all of this in great detail, it saved me a lot of time thinking about whether this is right choice for me, it is clearly not but at least now I know! You're a legend Brad, keep up the good work :)
I’m glad you didn’t head off down the wrong path 💪🏻
Very cool video cause Im about to install the same system and I would not have known any of the good information in this video.Thank you for saving me potential issues
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this informative video. You covered every bit of information I found to be confusing. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Appreciate it!
I’m glad it helped you
Great video Brad, thank you for all the good information on the Diesel heater. 😊
youre welcome! these heaters work great when installed properly
Amazing video. Really clean explanation. Thanks for your time to share this manual. I have a question, what you recommend about hot shower water, I don´t like the idea of "gas". Thank you very much
I use tankless propane heaters for shower water. Specifically the ez tankless 101
www.eztankless.com/products/EZ-101-p174993157
Great video. Thanks! Installing ome in my off grid travel trailer this weekend.
Awesome! Good luck with the install
Great tips! Everyone should watch this video right before installing their new heater.
I agree!
Fantastic .OK any answers would be great .so I have just got one and it's for my cabin as can't get electric to it .so a couple of questions. One does it make a lot of noise as my neighbour is about 50 feet away and 2 can I extend my air intake so its further away from exhaust
The heater is not very loud. Loudest part is the fuel pump. You can install the heater in a cabinet or closet to reduce operational noise. I do believe intake/ exhaust could be extended a little. If you point them in opposite directions, should be sufficient
Wish I’d found this video earlier!
Thankyou !!!👍🏾
Thanks for the video. Lots of good points. I just installed mine, so damn, I have to go back and make some corrections 👍
Better now than when you’re really depending on it and it’s not working. 💪🏻
Great video. Thank you. Question: How do you install the nipple in the tank? Pull it through with wire, or something similar?
use wire like this example, ruclips.net/video/j71Hnp307jw/видео.html
Or like me, tie a short length of thin string around nipple near barb, then blow other end of sting out your hole from filler opening, using compressed air, then just pull it thru.
ps, i modified my nipples, by putting extra feed holes in the sides of them, and making fine brass gauze covers for them as an extra pre filter. Due to my intake nipple mods, my tanks will drain to bone dry, rather than stop when still 10+mm left.
Exactly. I drilled the hole for the nipple. Then ran a wire down through the hole from the fill neck then slid nipple down wire. Not ideal but it works
@@nomadbrad503 I set up my mockup in the shop today and did it exactly the same way. Worked perfectly. Thank you.
It’s a big help for me co’z planing buy that heater in the future
I’m so happy to hear that! Good luck on the onstall
Hi I just installed this diesel heater & looks like I made the common mistake of waiting for the fuel to get from the pump that I primed but was working when it got there it was only short run say 200 ml, I have a problem with white smoke it doesn’t clear & the fan runs slow can u advise pls , great video on the 12 tips thanks for the advice👍
It’s normal to blow white smoke for a few minutes at startup.
good tips.. thank you for the share.. i wanted to ask if you know if they are efficient on fuel.. or about how much fuel they use in a day of use
They come with a 2.5 gallon fuel tank. Mine lasts about 3 nights if I run it from 7pm to 8am. Once i get the temperature right, I drop it down to the lowest setting
@@nomadbrad503 that is better then i expected.. thank you
Love the tips !! I too will be installing a diesel heater in my 6x10. I looked for your install video but it does not seem to be posted. Will you ever post it or is the snippet you had in the video all we get to see. I think I am going to mount the fuel tank inside the back door so that the fuel won't gel. Yes it might smell like diesel in the tiny but having the tank inside I can mount the heater in the rear next to it so less of a fuel run...Thanks for sharing your tips!!
Glad it helped
Great video…. Thanks! Installing one today…. The company should be paying you for tech support.
I agree!
great review, some things I ignored...corrected now, Thank you!
I’m glad it helped!
Every day a school day. Thank you!
I’m happy it helped!
Beautiful video brother. Just getting ready to install mine. Thanks so much for sharing. Saving thousands of people from headaches and stress. D🤙😎🇺🇸
You’re welcome!
Absolutely brilliant! Some excellent information there, I'm glad I watched this before I install my heater.
Me too!
Hi Brad, can you explain the electric power connection of the heater. Can I hook it up directly to a 12v battery, or do I need something in between? I don’t want my battery to fry the unit.
Make your pump vertical. The diesel will lubricate that piston better and it will last longer.
Thank you so much brilliant advice straight to the point no messing around and yes everybody get carbon monoxide detector with a new battery you never know it could save your life thank you for posting
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for a Great video. I've ordered a heater, so this information really comes in handy.
I just kicked it on for the first time after sitting for 9 months. Still heats like a dream 😊✌🏻
This is all so helpful. Thank you for sharing! I'm about to install one of these and I'm so glad to have found this first.
Good luck with the install!
Contrary to bad advice up higher in this thread(I think) and other videos, INSTALL THE PUMP at a 10 to 30 degrees PUMPING UP or you will experience issues or premature failure. That's not straight up, but in the direction close to straight up. THAT IS ONE OF THE MOST CRITICAL POINTS.
I had left you a long description for your install and maintenance and operation of the heater... alas it wad deleted by either the channel owner or Y. t., why? ...beats me! Then I ;tried to send to you thru your channel, but you have no content at all, nothing to pass you a message! ... sorry.
Well done, all the basic's, when I am watching people RUclips installing the heater you see the filter the wrong way around, no priming done, pump at wrong angles, the list goes on
I hear ya…hopefully this helps correct some of those failed installations
Thanks for this, very awesome. I love the information And will help solve my error codes.
I mounted my pump vertikal. Did run from powered on with no issues.
I’m glad to hear that 💪🏻
Wow such amazing and helpful tips. So happy I watched this before starting the installation. Thank you!! 👍👍👍👍
I’m happy to help ✌🏻😊
Excellent advice thanks. I knew about priming the fuel line but .......how?
It’s a setting in the digital controller. It depends on what style you have. Check for a video about your specific controller
First class instructional video. Thanks very much. Really helpful.
You're very welcome!
Thank you! Learned a couple new tricks!
Glad I could help!
Thanks for all this info, just about to install my first 5kw heater.
Awesome! You’ll love it
4:39 so, a hard nylon fuel tube is preferred from the outlet of the pump to the unit because that is what is under pressure? the line from the diesel fuel tank to the inlet of the pump, you'll be alright using the green tubing?
Since the filming of this video I have installed several with the softer green tubing. It works just fine. It’s okay to use whatever fuel line is included with the unit.
So this is all good advice except for the part about a "stand pipe extension" to not use the fuel on the bottom of the tank. The fuel filter adequately protects the pump/heater from debris, why reduce your overall capacity. If there is so much dirt and small particles in your fuel that this would even remotely be considered an option you should be pre filtering the fuel.
I also used a Bosch type fuel filter like the ones used on old VW Bugs.
It's common practice. Just a simple form of "pre-filter". Diesel is considered a "dirty fuel", so any extra filtration is good. I definitely wouldn't call it bad advice.
It’s not just dirt and debris in the fuel that’s the reason for the standpipe, it’s also necessary to help prevent water going in to the heater. The filter (especially not the cheap one supplied) won’t stop water. All fuels contain some water, and if the tank isn’t full there will also be moisture in the air in the tank. That moisture will condense out in cold temperatures and will collect in the bottom of the tank. Every fuel tank with a bottom exit should have a small standpipe.
Good idea
I put my suspended fuel pipe in from the top- therefore 100% no leaks & reduces chance of outlet being broken off- just a thought🤫
Also you want a 90° angle pointing towards the ground at your mounting bracket for exhaust pipe maximum 150mm before end then adjust to 10° off angle away from the vehicle. Or possible 🔥.
thanks for watching!
Thanks! Not quite ready to install ours, but getting close. Good reminders.
I’m glad you found it helpful ✌🏻😎
1st tip, surely ( don't call me Shirley ) the pump would better self lubricate if it was fitted bolt upright. And also cure the air bubble problem.
Thanks rusty!
For les problem put a pamp closest as is posible to the heater. With that your fuel line will breath less and pamp strock will be strongest. Before pamp put a shut-off walve so if you must muve heater easy is
Close a valve and kip fuel into the line then fill line again. But there is one more reason for valve got on fuel line. You will use valve to cut off diesel when you purge to heating chamber if is overfile with diesel. And that hapend sometime.
Great video with important information! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I add a diesel fuel conditioner like Power Service or Howes to take care of moisture in the fuel and to also add lubricity to the #2 diesel fuel I use.
Great idea!
I have a 2016 Transit Connect which will have the heater mounted inside by the driver’s side rear door. There is a hollow “tube” on each side with the top open (plastic cap) on the passenger side. I will have the exhaust pipe passing outside through the opening covered by the cap, then turning horizontal to mount the muffler pointing rearward. The intake will come in through the same “tube” on the driver’s side where I had to drill a big hole at the top. My intention is to mount the plate to the top of two 1x4” boards oriented on their edges thus creating a space open at both ends for the intake and exhaust and fuel to enter the heater through the plate. Since cabin air can pass freely under the plate, I’m hoping the plate will stay cool enough. Do you see any problems with this?
I’m not sure, can’t really picture that design in my mind
Kerosene (Paraffin) is also good to mix 50/50 with diesel. Good fuel burn !
does this mixture burn cleaner? less soot? works at altitude better?
What a fantastic, informative video. Thank you for this
Glad it was helpful!
Never thought I'd learn something from an Oregoner. Nice job explaining everything.
Lol why not, where are you from
@@nomadbrad503 Never thought I'd learn something from an American.
Thanks, the best tips I have seen of YT so far.
I’m glad you found it helpful 💪🏻
if you install the fuel filter wrong and start using it before realizing is it wrong it maybe a good idea to replace the filter because if you simply correct the filter you will put any contamination into the pump or even heater.
can the muffler be placed before the hose or inline between 2 hoses (get a second hose)?
Yes the muffler can be placed between 2
Dude the vid was really good, you just got to the points and it was super helpful. I'll definitely be using these tips with my install. Thanks very much
Thanks for the tips! I'm getting ready to install one in my build.
Awesome, good luck! This one has still been working great
All great info, thanks for taking the time to help
Thank you for watching!
Man this video was extremely helpful! thank you!
Glad it helped!