I got the Exact Same Rear Suspension, UPR Adjustable Uppers and Lowers, UPR Anti-Roll Bar, and Strange Shocks. Except my Control Arms have to Metal Heim Joints. Years Ago i ran the Southside Control Arms, they work Totally Different than this type of Set Up, was More Violent on the Launch, Broke Axles, Driveshaft, and Ripped the Upper Control Arms out from my Floor. Car was Only going Low 12's at the time with a Tremec TKO. Now going Low to Mid 9's With a C-4. People reinforce your Torque Box Areas, had the Lower Battle Boxes when this happened, i Never did Nothing with the Upper Area, and i learned my Lesson on that mistake. Well Car is completely reinforced now.
Good question. It came down to cost. It was originally a 4cyl. I wanted to do something boosted and this was the cheapest route. I paid 1300 for motor, transmission, turbo, ecu, and all wiring.
First great choice on shocks. Strange makes a great product. Not cheap but worth the money. It wasn't a bad video but maybe you should have explained how to cut the spring before some dummy breaks out a torch. Still not a good idea either way. Springs are cheap and they do make a difference. If you have a car making lots of power or is a stick. The torque boxes should be welded and subframe connected added also. The adjustable control arms are worth the extra money. You don't want the car to squat or lift up. You want to go forward a much as possible. Now you don't have the adjustment like on an actual 4 link where you can move both ends of all the bars up or down but it does do a better job for setting the instant center. Cutting a spring doesn't give you the adjustable you need for the best launch. Also just doing the back Without addressing the front of the car you won't get everything out of it. Adjustable front struts and having them set correctly makes a big difference. Moving the battery to the back helps. Another thing that really helps even though it's adding weight is a cage. Even if its only an 8pt cage. It will really tie the car together and get more power to the ground. If you have a stick and run slicks or DR's the subframe connectors are a must. If not the rear quarter by the back side window will crease/dent. Anyway good luck with the car.
Dang, did you get a deal from somebody, or what? Lsx's run about that much just for motor & ecu 'round here. A ittle less for the 4.8 since they're not as popular.
Good video but I recommend adjustable upper control arms for easy pinion angle adjustment. Torque box reinforcement are a must. If it's a high horsepower car I would recommend a anti roll bar along with adjustable lower control arms to adjust torque steer. When lowering the front end you want a bump steer kit to correct the angle of the tie rods. Team Z makes great products.
Very good informative video. You are answering a lot of questions i had for a while. Mainly when you say the front have to be a litter bit higher than rear. Especially after cutting rears coils.👍
I have a 96 and understand your concept, however, our cars squat more to the right, so upping the right side with a air suspension,( I put one in) helps plant the car better. So actually raising the right side a bit helps. Same concept for fox
Had to watch the video again. Its REALLY helpful. Two questions if you don't mind, please. 1) The '94-'95 SN95 seems to have, essentially, the same rear end suspension. Can this be done to them, too? 2) Just trying to think through this: Would it be possible to achieve the same upper ctrl arm angles under acceleration and better launch results by removing the rear spring isolators in stead of cutting the stock springs and leaving the isolators in?
Fox-Body Is it worth getting adjustable control arms if you have the budget or are they not needed for a street car that might see the strip occasionally?
Good video I own a 93 fox body my trq box’s we’re destroyed due to all the launching on drag radials or slicks so I went with the wild rides racing upper and lower trq box’s and now my car is super rigid and I just can’t figure out why, I believe I know now I’m going to go over my uppers, and throw these damn 4cyl springs away and try to find some gt springs and cut a coil...
Years Ago lots of people ran the 4 cyl. Springs in the Rear. I'm using the Moroso Rear Drag Springs in my 1986 Mustang. I know the Moroso Springs are different Drivers and Passenger Sides, believe it helps the Car from Twisting during Launch. My Car still Twisted with them, a UPR Anti-Roll Bar Totally Fixed That Issue.
I have a mostly stock 91 5.0 AOD LX convertible (some bolt ons, and 3.73 gears, drag radials). With no sway bars, stock V8 front springs, 4 cyl rear springs, car cut 2.18 60'. I swapped 4cyl springs on the front, and while I love the look, my 60' times are constant 2.3+. Heat, track temp, isn't making this an apples to apples comparison, but I'm about to swap the front springs back. Found your vid via a google search,. I'd appreciate your opinion. It was a pain to swap the springs the first time, not looking forward to doing it again without some idea of the results. Stock shocks and control arms all the way around. Thanks.
@@fox-body No, which is part of the problem, Stock stall, 4.10s and sticky tires, it just lugs out of the hole. I have a converter to put in it, but I really wanted an altitude corrected 13.99 with a stock motor and mostly stock AOD (has a shift kit). I'm in Vegas, so DA tonight was nearly 6K feet.
For a regular street driver like me, I understand you recommend cutting one coil off the rear springs, not sure if I will do that. Are you happy with the UPR's? I want to avoid the adjustable uppers as I am not sure how to adjust them. Also, is it OK to eliminate the quad shocks once you get good upper and lower control arms, like the UPR's? I just installed maximum motorsports sub frame connectors. I really like them.
pittsky p Yes the upr’s are good for street strip. The adjustables are good for adjusting your pinion angle but if you street drive a lot it’s not necessary. get rid of the quad shocks.
Man 👍up to the turbo 4cyl I seen some nasty lil turbo 4cyl ripping both front wheels off the ground about a foot high! I have a 87 notch 4cyl it's a beautiful car I got really lucky with it if I had all the turbo stuff to go with it then it would be a turbo 4cyl! Then first question is it a 4cyl or V8 car when u do a V8 swap it's like it's frown apawn but I am doing a V8 swap on my 87 notch as soon as the 4cyl goes! But thumbs up beautiful car enjoy it! 1 of the 4cyl turbo car's I am talking about is 2300gearjammer that thing is crazy!
James Voss It has a 1jz in-line 6 cyl. It’s a Toyota motor similar to what was used in Supra’s. I was going to do a turbo 4cyl but the cost to make the power I wanted was to high.
I have a 1985 GT stick shift with "Drag Shocks" on the back...It is stiff but- about 1-1/2 inches lower than the front. It's just a daily / street Ride with aprox 325 hp for fun... What should I put in back to raise the rear a lil bit?
went from my 7th stang build. wanted to go turbo lsx so I bought a gbody, didn't want all those ripped out torque boxes and weak control arms lmao!! gave up my 98 cobra to keep it pure, would have made 1 hell of a race car. now guess what rear end im trying to find. im gonna try to do an sn95 swap and see if I cant save $1,000 over a damn chevy 12 bolt version of an 8.8
I'm running UPR Upper and Lower Control Arms but with the Metal Heim Joints instead of Rubber or Polyurethane. Also UPR Anti-Roll Bar, Strange Adj. Shocks. This Set Up works good for me, 275/60 Mickey Thompson ET Street, Drag Radial Pro. I Love these Tires, used to run 28/10/15 Drag Slicks, Will probably Never see a set of Slicks on my Car again. Maybe on the Street, that's about it. The Technology now a days is Amazing on how good these Drag Radials are.
Ok... good advice. But a Jap motor between the fenders of an American car? Oh lord help me! It’s supposed to be the other way around... like a LS motor in a Supra. There ya go.. Foxes need to have pushrod 5-ohs in em. That’s about like pulling a turbo 3.8 out of a grand national and dropping in a Mazda rotary. God forbid
CHEWY9767 to each is own bro....takes talent and skills to get this swap done. I applaud this creation, haven't seen this before. I love it. Respect to the builder/owner. And great video!
You should do a little research... The toyota jz engine is arguably better than most motors Ford ever produced.... Do you see any factory 302 blocks capable of 1000hp...
As a mechanic, I don’t care for working on most Fords, the powertrains always have some crippling weak link, such as the V6 trucks that blow intake gaskets with coolant passages and hydrolock the engine, triton engines with their cam phaser and spark plug issues, 6.whatever powerstrokes that never run right and cost an arm and a dick to repair, and I’ve never seen a 460 oil pan seal correctly. The older small blocks I can’t say much about, but I know the stock block won’t take more than about 500 hp. I can’t remember the last time I’ve seen a Toyota roll in that that didn’t have a quarter of a million miles or more.
I got the Exact Same Rear Suspension, UPR Adjustable Uppers and Lowers, UPR Anti-Roll Bar, and Strange Shocks. Except my Control Arms have to Metal Heim Joints. Years Ago i ran the Southside Control Arms, they work Totally Different than this type of Set Up, was More Violent on the Launch, Broke Axles, Driveshaft, and Ripped the Upper Control Arms out from my Floor. Car was Only going Low 12's at the time with a Tremec TKO. Now going Low to Mid 9's With a C-4.
People reinforce your Torque Box Areas, had the Lower Battle Boxes when this happened, i Never did Nothing with the Upper Area, and i learned my Lesson on that mistake. Well Car is completely reinforced now.
Good question. It came down to cost. It was originally a 4cyl. I wanted to do something boosted and this was the cheapest route. I paid 1300 for motor, transmission, turbo, ecu, and all wiring.
First great choice on shocks. Strange makes a great product. Not cheap but worth the money. It wasn't a bad video but maybe you should have explained how to cut the spring before some dummy breaks out a torch. Still not a good idea either way. Springs are cheap and they do make a difference. If you have a car making lots of power or is a stick. The torque boxes should be welded and subframe connected added also. The adjustable control arms are worth the extra money. You don't want the car to squat or lift up. You want to go forward a much as possible. Now you don't have the adjustment like on an actual 4 link where you can move both ends of all the bars up or down but it does do a better job for setting the instant center. Cutting a spring doesn't give you the adjustable you need for the best launch. Also just doing the back Without addressing the front of the car you won't get everything out of it. Adjustable front struts and having them set correctly makes a big difference. Moving the battery to the back helps. Another thing that really helps even though it's adding weight is a cage. Even if its only an 8pt cage. It will really tie the car together and get more power to the ground. If you have a stick and run slicks or DR's the subframe connectors are a must. If not the rear quarter by the back side window will crease/dent. Anyway good luck with the car.
Dang, did you get a deal from somebody, or what? Lsx's run about that much just for motor & ecu 'round here. A ittle less for the 4.8 since they're not as popular.
@@waynebollentin989 absolutely. Great info
Good video but I recommend adjustable upper control arms for easy pinion angle adjustment. Torque box reinforcement are a must. If it's a high horsepower car I would recommend a anti roll bar along with adjustable lower control arms to adjust torque steer.
When lowering the front end you want a bump steer kit to correct the angle of the tie rods.
Team Z makes great products.
Very good informative video. You are answering a lot of questions i had for a while. Mainly when you say the front have to be a litter bit higher than rear. Especially after cutting rears coils.👍
Saw this car at showtime cleanest import to fox swap ive ever seen really cool
Thanks! I’ll be back out soon.
I have a 96 and understand your concept, however, our cars squat more to the right, so upping the right side with a air suspension,( I put one in) helps plant the car better. So actually raising the right side a bit helps. Same concept for fox
Thanks man 👍... 9:38 Genius way of explaining the front ride height.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Lots of great info..
No problem.
Also, by lowering the rear will make it almost impossible to put a 28" slicks in there without shortening the wheel base and or tub
Had to watch the video again. Its REALLY helpful. Two questions if you don't mind, please. 1) The '94-'95 SN95 seems to have, essentially, the same rear end suspension. Can this be done to them, too? 2) Just trying to think through this: Would it be possible to achieve the same upper ctrl arm angles under acceleration and better launch results by removing the rear spring isolators in stead of cutting the stock springs and leaving the isolators in?
Yeah same concept on the SN. Removing the isolators may not be enough. You could try it though.
Great video man. I’m new to the foxbody game and have a completely stock suspension setup. This video helped me a lot.
Brian Bishop Glad to help👍🏼
Fox-Body Is it worth getting adjustable control arms if you have the budget or are they not needed for a street car that might see the strip occasionally?
B Bishop I would say not needed if it’s mostly street use.
Hey
Forgiving the engine heresy because that notch looks so good.
Ha ha😂
Good video I own a 93 fox body my trq box’s we’re destroyed due to all the launching on drag radials or slicks so I went with the wild rides racing upper and lower trq box’s and now my car is super rigid and I just can’t figure out why, I believe I know now I’m going to go over my uppers, and throw these damn 4cyl springs away and try to find some gt springs and cut a coil...
Years Ago lots of people ran the 4 cyl. Springs in the Rear. I'm using the Moroso Rear Drag Springs in my 1986 Mustang. I know the Moroso Springs are different Drivers and Passenger Sides, believe it helps the Car from Twisting during Launch. My Car still Twisted with them, a UPR Anti-Roll Bar Totally Fixed That Issue.
Whoa! 1.2 60's with stock springs? Dayumn!
Very helpful thank...
I have a mostly stock 91 5.0 AOD LX convertible (some bolt ons, and 3.73 gears, drag radials). With no sway bars, stock V8 front springs, 4 cyl rear springs, car cut 2.18 60'. I swapped 4cyl springs on the front, and while I love the look, my 60' times are constant 2.3+. Heat, track temp, isn't making this an apples to apples comparison, but I'm about to swap the front springs back. Found your vid via a google search,. I'd appreciate your opinion. It was a pain to swap the springs the first time, not looking forward to doing it again without some idea of the results. Stock shocks and control arms all the way around. Thanks.
The stock control arms are terrible. I’d start there first. 4cyl springs in the rear are not bad, many people use them. Is it spinning?
@@fox-body No, which is part of the problem, Stock stall, 4.10s and sticky tires, it just lugs out of the hole. I have a converter to put in it, but I really wanted an altitude corrected 13.99 with a stock motor and mostly stock AOD (has a shift kit). I'm in Vegas, so DA tonight was nearly 6K feet.
James H if it’s not spinning then suspension won’t do much to help the 60. Hit it with a 100 shot. Problem solved. 👍🏼
@@fox-body True, 4.10s though, I run out of RPM before the stripe if I bottle feed it.
I have no idea why you don't have a million views. This is the best video I've seen on launches.
Thanks! I’m making a part 2 soon to go a little deeper on the subject.
For a regular street driver like me, I understand you recommend cutting one coil off the rear springs, not sure if I will do that. Are you happy with the UPR's? I want to avoid the adjustable uppers as I am not sure how to adjust them. Also, is it OK to eliminate the quad shocks once you get good upper and lower control arms, like the UPR's? I just installed maximum motorsports sub frame connectors. I really like them.
pittsky p Yes the upr’s are good for street strip. The adjustables are good for adjusting your pinion angle but if you street drive a lot it’s not necessary. get rid of the quad shocks.
New to fox body. Why put different control arms in rear? Also is there a happy medium for handling as well? I want it all.
Get the torque box reinforcement kit to go with your new control arms. You do not want to blow out a toque box.
True. That’s on the list of things to do. 👍🏼
Man 👍up to the turbo 4cyl I seen some nasty lil turbo 4cyl ripping both front wheels off the ground about a foot high! I have a 87 notch 4cyl it's a beautiful car I got really lucky with it if I had all the turbo stuff to go with it then it would be a turbo 4cyl! Then first question is it a 4cyl or V8 car when u do a V8 swap it's like it's frown apawn but I am doing a V8 swap on my 87 notch as soon as the 4cyl goes! But thumbs up beautiful car enjoy it! 1 of the 4cyl turbo car's I am talking about is 2300gearjammer that thing is crazy!
James Voss It has a 1jz in-line 6 cyl. It’s a Toyota motor similar to what was used in Supra’s. I was going to do a turbo 4cyl but the cost to make the power I wanted was to high.
Ok I thought it was a turbo 4cyl but still it is a really nice car sorry for the mix up! 👍👍👍
This was my major problem on my 97 cobra.. Upper control arm is to straight
Could you clarify for me - how did you determine where to start and stop when cutting the coil spring? Thx! That fox is super clean looking.
Yes 1 Coil. Cut it just below the beginning of the first coil. If that makes sense.. You will be left with a full circle cut of.
@@fox-body Hey thank you very much! Sorry if that was a dumb question, I just got to over-thinking it a little, lol
Great vid
Good video! I have same adjustable front and back! Which number do you like on front and back? Just a fun slow stock street car! Thanks
I’ll double check but I believe I have the front at 5 clicks from soft and the rear 3 or 4.
Why are you not running a rear swaybar?
I have a 1985 GT stick shift with "Drag Shocks" on the back...It is stiff but- about 1-1/2 inches lower than the front. It's just a daily / street Ride with aprox 325 hp for fun... What should I put in back to raise the rear a lil bit?
What's your rear backspacing on the rear 8" wheel
5.5
went from my 7th stang build. wanted to go turbo lsx so I bought a gbody, didn't want all those ripped out torque boxes and weak control arms lmao!! gave up my 98 cobra to keep it pure, would have made 1 hell of a race car. now guess what rear end im trying to find. im gonna try to do an sn95 swap and see if I cant save $1,000 over a damn chevy 12 bolt version of an 8.8
Will cutting a coil out of the rear spring level or the car. So I can leave the stock front springs unchanged if I wanted to? Thanks for the video
Yes for sure.
If you cut 1 coil off 4cyl springs will if have the same effect as the v8 springs
Yes. These are actually 4cylinder springs on this car.
Will this same theory work on dig street races?
Reynaldo Rogers Yes. If it is a 4 link type suspension. If you google “instant center” it gives a lot more detail on the subject.
What wheel and tire combo is that?
What type of UPR control arms are you running?
Elite series.
@@fox-body do you recommend them?
mustang_eddie Yes. If you street drive and occasional track. If track only there are better options.
@@fox-body It's my daily Driver, so yes. I'll give them a try then.
I'm running UPR Upper and Lower Control Arms but with the Metal Heim Joints instead of Rubber or Polyurethane. Also UPR Anti-Roll Bar, Strange Adj. Shocks. This Set Up works good for me, 275/60 Mickey Thompson ET Street, Drag Radial Pro. I Love these Tires, used to run 28/10/15 Drag Slicks, Will probably Never see a set of Slicks on my Car again. Maybe on the Street, that's about it. The Technology now a days is Amazing on how good these Drag Radials are.
What can that car run in the 1/4 mile ?
Hopefully mid 10s.
@@fox-body its a very cool car man good job with the build.
so 90/10 front struts are bad?
No. There good.
Instant center look it up
What are your rear shocks set on?
Right in the middle. About 5 clicks.
I was told that you have to prove you are gay before you can swap a motor into a foxbody. Can you verify that please?
Okay..
Hello
Ok... good advice. But a Jap motor between the fenders of an American car? Oh lord help me! It’s supposed to be the other way around... like a LS motor in a Supra. There ya go.. Foxes need to have pushrod 5-ohs in em. That’s about like pulling a turbo 3.8 out of a grand national and dropping in a Mazda rotary. God forbid
whats your IG
@the_hated_1j
Why it sound like its slow take that shit out now lol
Wast of a car with a inport motor in it👎
CHEWY9767 import👍🏼
CHEWY9767 to each is own bro....takes talent and skills to get this swap done. I applaud this creation, haven't seen this before. I love it. Respect to the builder/owner. And great video!
I dont know, I think it pretty cool its unique
Why would you put that garbage engine in such a beautiful car?
Ford arguably makes worse engines than Toyota. JZs are fucking bulletproof.
Eric Fixalot Yea the old 302s certainly had their limits.
You should do a little research... The toyota jz engine is arguably better than most motors Ford ever produced.... Do you see any factory 302 blocks capable of 1000hp...
As a mechanic, I don’t care for working on most Fords, the powertrains always have some crippling weak link, such as the V6 trucks that blow intake gaskets with coolant passages and hydrolock the engine, triton engines with their cam phaser and spark plug issues, 6.whatever powerstrokes that never run right and cost an arm and a dick to repair, and I’ve never seen a 460 oil pan seal correctly. The older small blocks I can’t say much about, but I know the stock block won’t take more than about 500 hp. I can’t remember the last time I’ve seen a Toyota roll in that that didn’t have a quarter of a million miles or more.