Great video! I have the dreaded P2007 code showing on my 2017 F150 and I am watching as many clips as possible to see how to replace the intake. Your video was very informative.
This video is gold brother! I got the damn P2007 code tonight. I’m so POed as my 2017 just turned 38k miles on it as the check engine light came on. In short order I’ve realized there are so many with the same problem. I’ve found a replacement to OEM that seems to have beefed up the IMRC rod where the breaks occur so I’ll be swapping it out next weekend. On a scale of 1-10 for mechanical I’m probably a 6-7, but your disassembly overview is awesome. Thanks for the fuel line tool overview as I just ordered those to do the job. If all goes well, I’ll throw you a few bucks as you’ll have seriously saved me big on labor not to mention teaching me something new! Thanks man!
I’m glad I could help you out! I work at a Ford Dealer and that issue is becoming more and more of a problem. For whatever reason they won’t make a better manifold!
I too just had this code pop up over the weekend, my '17 Platinum with 43k shouldn't be this unreliable. But, I've also noticed tons of folks are having the same issues. It's a shame we Ford customers have to spend $400+ on the intake manifold itself, and install it, all to avoid an extra $300 (if not more) just for it to be installed by Ford.
@@Speedfreely I found one on Summit for $400 and has beefed up IMRC rods so that they'll never (hopefully not) break again. How did the installation go for you when you did it?
@@hunterrwiilson It took me about 4hrs just because I'm not as flexible as I used to be and slightly overweight. The biggest pain were the wire harnesses that plug into the back of the intake where the connectors are located. Putting it back together was a cinch. I also didnt reinstall the wire harnesses as the wires are already really snug in place when everything is back together. I didn't mind the extra time though as I was pretty deliberate and learned what needs to be done when I need new spark plugs/coils. That job, when time, ought to be an hour or less.
This is a great video. I'm looking at doing this with my 2011 Ford f150 5.0. I want to run a mustang intake manifold, custom tune it, jlt air intake, and BBK throttle body.
Finally got around to fixing my 2017 this past weekend. I only had to disconnect one fuel rail based on design change I guess. The other thing different on my 2017 was I had to disconnect a coolant hose that runs across the top front of the manifold. Took me about 4hrs. I’m not as flexible as I use to be. lol. What got me was the damn wire harnesses that are clipped to the back of the manifold where the connectors are. SOBing engineers!! Reassembly was so much faster though. And what is up with all the freaking oil inside the manifold and throttle body??!! Thanks for the video, it helped out
So I have an F-150 2016 SuperCrew cab I bought the 302 boss intake manifold the reason why I bought the manifold is because because the engine light came on and the the code read the second stage Runner is staying open it won't close. So I upgraded the manifold to the 302 Boss does the boss come with its own second stage Runner and all that equipment in the back of the original manifold
I’m a Ford Tech so I’m pretty familiar with the IMRC issues lol the boss 302 manifold doesn’t have any IMRC controls, it’s a straight runner design with no charge motion control.
I’m fixing to change the intake on my 2017 f150 I’ve watched your video and it really helps. My question is when you u plug the wires in the back can you pick the intake up and move it forward to get the cables unplugged or do you have to do it in place. I think this will be the worst part. Thanks for the video.
Have you tried running the truck with 4hi engaged right off the line and then switching to 2hi on the fly after you get through 1st? How do you run it, with just locked rear end in 2hi with drag radials or what exactly to get into the high 12s?
I've tried switching it out of 4WD at different points in a pass and it doesn't really make a difference. The truck automatically disengages the transfer case above 55 anyways. But nothing special to get it into the 12's, how you see it in the video is how usually get's ran, always in 4wd. I have some smaller tires that I use as a "drag pack" (stock 17" wheels with 28" tall tires) and its been 12.09 at 114 with those. Otherwise it runs 12.40's-12.50s on the stock wheels and tires.
I like that pep from 0 to 60 and at lower rpms. Will this manifold kill that range and you only really feel the gains at high rpms? Also, saw where you were going to 4.10s how much time are you hoping to shave in your times?
It really doesn't lose much, if any at all, at lower RPM's. That's the nice thing about the mustang manifold is that it carries that power a lot better and doesn't sacrifice the bottom end. Right now with the 3.55's it goes 2.00's to the 60' and I know that with 4.10's it should go in the 1.80's!
I have a question..I have a 16 f150 motor that I'm swapping into my 90 fox and I bought comp cams for it and I want to get this intake.. it's the process the same going into a fox 6r80 combo..I have a pbh control pack and harness
Ironically, I’m doing the same thing on my 1978 King Cobra (videos on my channel) with a gen 2 truck motor that I swapped mustang cams into. To answer your question, it will still work and bolt in correctly and everything yes. Only challenge being the IMRC’s. I’ve heard of people having issues getting them to work with a gen 3 manifold on a gen 2 engine. The plugs are different but they do make adapter harnesses. You can also buy lock outs for around $20 and that’ll work as well. Hope this helps!
The wheels I use for daily driving are 20" Lariat Sport wheels, like the ones in the thumbnail, but I also have the stock set of 17's with 28" tall tires on them, having the short tires is like having 4.10 gears with the 31" "stock" tires. It's a lot more fun to drive that way. The 17's are also a lot lighter as well, probably 10-20 pounds a wheel. As for the tires, they're a BFGoodrich Advantage TA (275/55R20)
I swapped a 2017 F150 XLT 5.0, (had IMRC issues) to 2018 GT Intake, got the manifold ported for MAP sensor, and also have installed plug ins to keep IMRCs...everything in the back is connected, but the front has open vaccuums that do not match , sensor behind throttle body has no place for connection...can you understand the place or part I'm speaking of? HELP!
I know you have to move a couple of the vacuum lines because the ports are in different spot. The sensor behind the throttle body is the evap control solenoid! The gen 3’s have an external one. You could probably cap it and leave it!
I have a 2017 ford f150 5.0 and I’m wondering if change the entire intake manifold or just the IMRC because it’s making a weird sound like it’s sucks air in the IMRC so what do you think I should do or what do you think the problem might be?
I know that 15-17 manifolds have really bad issues and they’ve very expensive to buy new and parts are available to repair them from what I know. Last I knew a new gen 2 manifold from the dealership was over $1,000.
It will physically bolt on yes! I'm pretty sure the stock fuel rails work as well. But you will have to create provisions for the MAP sensor and it will obviously need a custom tune.
Hey buddy I'm in process of doing this to my 2016 5.0 f150 what tune do I need to make everything work with no cel I bought a bully dog bdx 40470 will the e87 tune be all I need the intake I will be using is from a 2018 truck not the mustang gt manafold
You’ll need the adapter harnesses for sure for the IMRC’s but you can use the ones they make for a mustang since the plugs are the same. The emissions lugs will be in different spots but should be relatively painless.
I bought the tools at O'reilly's I believe, you can buy them at almost any parts store, though. If you're asking about the actual fuel lines themselves, I can get you part numbers if need be, but they're all the original factory Ford fittings. However, 15-17 trucks wont have the fuel line going to the passengers bank because they don't have Direct Injection.
I have a 2011 XLT 5.0.. just installed a cat back rough country exhaust system, after market k&n cold air intake.. I've saved about 2,000 and wanna put into engine.. Being that you're very familiar with these motors I'm curious to see what you would recommend to make more horsepower for the buck?? Thanks
Sorry, I just need a little bit more information, did you replace the manifold on your truck with another stock Gen 2 truck manifold or did you replace it with a Gen 3 Mustang manifold? If you did the Mustang manifold, did you get the adapter harnesses to run the IMRC's on the new mustang manifold?
I got all of my hoses out the way, and bolts loosened up on the intake manifold. When I try to bring it forward enough to remove the IMRC plugs there's little to no movement. I'm assuming the harnesses are attached to the back and stopping me. Did you blindly snap those off or did you have more play in your wiring to bring the manifold towards the front of the truck? I have a P2007 error and attempting this myself but limited movement on the intake once it's broken loose.
Yes the harness is clipped to the back of the intake manifold in at least 2 places which is terribly annoying. But yeah, there are the 2 (or 4) plugs for the IMRC's but there's also the plug for the MAP sensor. I used a christmas tree removal tool that I cut down to fit back there but you could possibly pull on the harness which I don't recommend but would work!
@@dugganracecraft after about an hour of struggling to reach it, having my phone back there so I could see what I was doing, I finally got the clips off. I did have to buy the door panel tool, and there were more than a few choice cuss words though. My intake has a hose out the back that eventually connects to the brake booster. It has the dual clip clamp requiring 2 pliers and guess what, the tabs are towards the intake and is impossible to get off without removing the intake first. Now to watch the tail end of you video re-installing this bad boy! IF, I can get my hands on one of the global back-ordered intakes that are $570 now.
@@dugganracecraft thanks for the your video & your help. I was able to get an intake and install it yesterday. It's hard to believe a $2.00 piece of cheap material costs us $600 to replace the entire manifold. It seems I have more lower end power than before so I'm curious how long I've had this issue before receiving the P2007 error.
I have done a little bit of research, I think circle D is the best brand to use on newer vehicles and have heard a lot of great things. However, I'm not too impressed with their 10r80 converters, I've heard of a lot of people having issues with longevity and even guys having the transmissions get tore up when the converter fails. The issue I'm hearing most is something along the lines of the center guide for the input shaft basically eating itself alive. I don't remember exactly but it's something along those lines. Eventually I'll get one but that's a little bit down the road!
It says 2015+, but I thought 15-17 is Gen 2 and the imrc won't work , is that correct? I am looking at doing a intake swap because my runner control just went out
I'm not sure about that tbh. In theory it should still run fine, but throw a CEL for the IMRC's being unplugged. I forgot to plug them back in once and it ran like a dog up top because the runners wouldn't switch. The only thing I can think of for your particular issue is the vacuum line that the IMRC's originally used not being plugged.
@@dugganracecraft should I take off the manifold and start all over again. I'm also getting a code on my sct scanner p1702 tcm transmission control module. It happen when it came off the dyno .
Do you or anyone for that matter, know if the install on this mustang intake is the same or similar to an 18+ f150 manifold upgrade. Looking to do the Oz tunning, IMCR fix it kit.
I went with Lund because I already had an Ngauge when I bought this truck, eventually I needed to switch to the RTD and it was the cheapest at the time. I never did a bolt on aftermarket kit but I did build a ram air intake for it and it did seem to pick up a little bit but not a lot.
Yes, only difference being the IMRC plugs. They're different between the two. I've heard of people using adapter connections with varying degrees of success. Otherwise you could delete them and not have to deal with it!
Same size tb but gen2 and gen3 have a different software on them. I put a gen3 intake my my gen2 truck motor in my fox and it wouldn’t idle correctly, once i swapped the gen2 truck tb on the gen3 stang intake it ran fine.
Honestly, progress has been slow to non-existent with it as of recently. I have high hopes for it in the near future with seeing how fast I can make it N/A but most of my time and resources are being used on my '78 Mustang!
So.... officially speaking yes. Personally, I've ran it on the stock tune before and it runs fine. Mainly because the trucks are MAP so as long as the MAP sensor is functioning properly the computer can do the compensating. I don't recommend not tuning it though because hardware changes should be associated with software changes as well and assume no responsibility or liability for damages occurring to anyone's vehicle. Attempt at your own risk.
I agree with Mr. Trucker, with how much the 15-17 manifolds are selling for on EBay ($400+) you can easily get into a used 18+ manifold. The gains you would see with a 15-17 are negligible at best.
Oh definitely, these engines are designed to handle the RPM. The Gen III coyote engine is the same long block as what comes in the 2018+ Mustangs and F-150's.
I’m actually in the process of doing the 18+GT versus the Boss Manifold on my Coyote Swapped Mustang. I have a video coming soon on it. I like the GT manifold more, especially on the truck because it’s so much more responsive in the midrange which is really nice in a heavy truck for obvious reasons. If I raced it more, it would definitely get a boss manifold.
You do lose juuuuust a little down low, but I was still able to pull just fine with the mustang manifold. I pulled a 4,200 pound car over 800 miles on it and it went great!
@@dugganracecraft That's good to hear. I intend to pull an SXS with this truck but wasn't too sure about installing a GT manifold due to that reason. Thank you
Opps!!!!! I have broken the law many times, please forgive meeeee!!!!! I have taken the converters off of everyone of my hotrods 😭😭😭😭🚗💨💨💨💨🚓🚔🚓 Im running now before the cops get me. 🤣😂😂 cool little mod for the truck, those coyotes are hard to beat
I’m not prepared to say that I’ve never had the cats off the truck, but I’m also not prepared to say that I have lol surprisingly with these new cats, it makes verrrryyy little performance difference. I’ve ran it back to back with and without and it ran basically the same times both times. But it sounds much faster without them. 😚😚😋
@@dugganracecraft 😂🤣😂 yeah they have figured out how to make them a lot less restrictive than the older ones, but it does sound so much better without them because they still muffle out some of the great sound that we have all enjoyed without them. That is a really good time that the truck ran pretty much all stock, that thing has got to be fun to drive
@@79beans347 oh it’s a blast, the 10 speed is unbelievable. I’ve been 12.16 @ 113.5 at the track last year. I was going to try to go 11’s this year but ended up picking the GT and well, you know how that goes lol
Hey, it's not a modification for everyone. But, it was much more than 3/10ths. My best Stock manifold time was 12.95 @ 106.9, my best time with the mustang manifold was a 12.09 @ 113.5MPH. It really not that much work for quite a large gain in my opinion, but if it's not worth it for you then I totally understand!
Appreciate the fact that dude has an "I'm getting this shit done no matter what" attitude, but that intake manifold is HACKED. Even the "pre-modified and pre-drilled" manifolds for the F150 MAP sensor from some performance companies look sketchy. I don't doubt the validity of tuning, but all the work you have to go through with the manifold for negligible gains just isn't worth it.
I definitely agreed it's a little hacked, I refuse to hide stuff like that. The mustang manifold just wasn't designed to have the MAP sensor in the back, plain and simple. But I will disagree that the difference it makes is negligible. At face value, sure it doesn't make tons more power. BUT it makes a boat load more under the curve and spins another 2,500 RPM more than the stock manifold. But that's my subjective opinion, it's worth it for me but I completely understand that for a lot of people that it's not. With that being said, eventually it'll get the best type of intake manifold, a belt driven one ;)
@@dugganracecraft There isn't a mechanic out there that hasn't has a "that probably could have gone better" moment. It's the official hallmark of my career. LoL. Sometimes, however, ya gotta get shit done. That's the job. Apparently, you can purchase these manifolds pre-drilled and ported, but it ain't cheap. 600-650, and that's without the tune. Not gonna lie though, it does look like a fun project, though I'd probably be cursing out Ford along the way for the lack of access to the IMRC connectors. I'm personally not a fan of IMRC deletes, as they do provide performance value, though it can be a potentially costly repair should that system fail. As far a the superchargers, those things are just siiiiiiiickkkk. Bang for the buck, it's probably the most cost effective, though you better save some coin for future repairs. Put that much fun under the hood, you're gonna break something eventually. LoL
Definitely, in my opinion, you really should leave the IMRC's connected because there's no gain to deleting them. Fortunately, I bought this manifold before the prices went up lol I bought it for $289 from Fairway Ford on eBay back in 2018/19. But yes, you definitely need money put away for repairs lol. I had a Roush supercharged 2015 GT and unfortunately went through an engine and a transmission before I got rid of it. Some very expensive mistakes lol
No reason to be jealous! This is a very replicable set-up, although trucks are very hard to come by right now lol. My instagram is DugganRacecraft and I'm Sean Duggan on facebook!
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Kick ass video brother!
Thanks, Jay!
great work bro! Solid video.
Appreciate it!
Great running truck. Fast
Your video helped me a lot .... thanks man
Glad it helped! Let me know if you have any questions!
Thanks for all of your help. New subscriber.
Thanks for the sub!
Yes .. more truck videos please !!!
I've got some more video in the works!
Great video! I have the dreaded P2007 code showing on my 2017 F150 and I am watching as many clips as possible to see how to replace the intake. Your video was very informative.
Good luck! I'm glad the video helped, feel free to get ahold of me if you get stuck on something.
@@dugganracecraft Thanks!
James whered you get your manifold at?
@@linodelacruz1581 Somewhere in TX. I just searched until I found someone willing to sell one. There are dealerships thathave them, but
@@linodelacruz1581 they are saving them for their own customers.
This video is gold brother! I got the damn P2007 code tonight. I’m so POed as my 2017 just turned 38k miles on it as the check engine light came on. In short order I’ve realized there are so many with the same problem. I’ve found a replacement to OEM that seems to have beefed up the IMRC rod where the breaks occur so I’ll be swapping it out next weekend. On a scale of 1-10 for mechanical I’m probably a 6-7, but your disassembly overview is awesome. Thanks for the fuel line tool overview as I just ordered those to do the job. If all goes well, I’ll throw you a few bucks as you’ll have seriously saved me big on labor not to mention teaching me something new! Thanks man!
I’m glad I could help you out! I work at a Ford Dealer and that issue is becoming more and more of a problem. For whatever reason they won’t make a better manifold!
I too just had this code pop up over the weekend, my '17 Platinum with 43k shouldn't be this unreliable. But, I've also noticed tons of folks are having the same issues. It's a shame we Ford customers have to spend $400+ on the intake manifold itself, and install it, all to avoid an extra $300 (if not more) just for it to be installed by Ford.
@@hunterrwiilson get ready to pay $800 for the OEM. I ordered a knock-off from Amazon and it showed up broken. :( good luck.
@@Speedfreely I found one on Summit for $400 and has beefed up IMRC rods so that they'll never (hopefully not) break again. How did the installation go for you when you did it?
@@hunterrwiilson It took me about 4hrs just because I'm not as flexible as I used to be and slightly overweight. The biggest pain were the wire harnesses that plug into the back of the intake where the connectors are located. Putting it back together was a cinch. I also didnt reinstall the wire harnesses as the wires are already really snug in place when everything is back together. I didn't mind the extra time though as I was pretty deliberate and learned what needs to be done when I need new spark plugs/coils. That job, when time, ought to be an hour or less.
Love it!
Thanks Mart!
This is a great video. I'm looking at doing this with my 2011 Ford f150 5.0. I want to run a mustang intake manifold, custom tune it, jlt air intake, and BBK throttle body.
That thing should be pretty rowdy!
Finally got around to fixing my 2017 this past weekend. I only had to disconnect one fuel rail based on design change I guess. The other thing different on my 2017 was I had to disconnect a coolant hose that runs across the top front of the manifold. Took me about 4hrs. I’m not as flexible as I use to be. lol. What got me was the damn wire harnesses that are clipped to the back of the manifold where the connectors are. SOBing engineers!! Reassembly was so much faster though. And what is up with all the freaking oil inside the manifold and throttle body??!! Thanks for the video, it helped out
I hear you there brother! I’ve gotten a few years older since this video and things are as easy as they used to be 😂
Wicked. Inspiring.
Late to the video but you just got a subscriber bro. Got a 2018 5.0 hoping to build her up
Better late than never right? 😉 thanks for the sub hood buddy!
The damn sauce wagon is nasty🥵🥵
You’re my hero lol
Love the video. Take my sub. And keep em coming! 18' F150 Coyote
I’ve got a new truck on the way and I plan to make a ton of videos about it!
Thanks for the video! Great idea especially with the f150 since the mustang internals are almost the same..(since 2001) 😂 Terminating since 2001
Thanks for watching good buddy!
Super helpful video! AEKDB brother
A-B brother!!
So I have an F-150 2016 SuperCrew cab I bought the 302 boss intake manifold the reason why I bought the manifold is because because the engine light came on and the the code read the second stage Runner is staying open it won't close. So I upgraded the manifold to the 302 Boss does the boss come with its own second stage Runner and all that equipment in the back of the original manifold
I’m a Ford Tech so I’m pretty familiar with the IMRC issues lol the boss 302 manifold doesn’t have any IMRC controls, it’s a straight runner design with no charge motion control.
I’m fixing to change the intake on my 2017 f150 I’ve watched your video and it really helps. My question is when you u plug the wires in the back can you pick the intake up and move it forward to get the cables unplugged or do you have to do it in place. I think this will be the worst part. Thanks for the video.
You should be able to move it forward, but it won’t be more than an inch or two!
Thank you sir! There are NO MAP sensor videos!
Not a problem!
Have you tried running the truck with 4hi engaged right off the line and then switching to 2hi on the fly after you get through 1st? How do you run it, with just locked rear end in 2hi with drag radials or what exactly to get into the high 12s?
I've tried switching it out of 4WD at different points in a pass and it doesn't really make a difference. The truck automatically disengages the transfer case above 55 anyways. But nothing special to get it into the 12's, how you see it in the video is how usually get's ran, always in 4wd. I have some smaller tires that I use as a "drag pack" (stock 17" wheels with 28" tall tires) and its been 12.09 at 114 with those. Otherwise it runs 12.40's-12.50s on the stock wheels and tires.
Great video. Can you elaborate about how to get those 4 plugs out. Are they reachable? Thanks for the video.
They’re not terrible, just unbolt the manifold and get at the plugs in back!
I like that pep from 0 to 60 and at lower rpms. Will this manifold kill that range and you only really feel the gains at high rpms? Also, saw where you were going to 4.10s how much time are you hoping to shave in your times?
It really doesn't lose much, if any at all, at lower RPM's. That's the nice thing about the mustang manifold is that it carries that power a lot better and doesn't sacrifice the bottom end. Right now with the 3.55's it goes 2.00's to the 60' and I know that with 4.10's it should go in the 1.80's!
@@dugganracecraftyou probably don’t feel the loss as much since you have a single cab which are very light compared to say my 4x4 Platinum 4 doors
I have a question..I have a 16 f150 motor that I'm swapping into my 90 fox and I bought comp cams for it and I want to get this intake.. it's the process the same going into a fox 6r80 combo..I have a pbh control pack and harness
Ironically, I’m doing the same thing on my 1978 King Cobra (videos on my channel) with a gen 2 truck motor that I swapped mustang cams into.
To answer your question, it will still work and bolt in correctly and everything yes. Only challenge being the IMRC’s. I’ve heard of people having issues getting them to work with a gen 3 manifold on a gen 2 engine. The plugs are different but they do make adapter harnesses. You can also buy lock outs for around $20 and that’ll work as well. Hope this helps!
Thank you for the information. What kinda of wheel are you running. Thank you
The wheels I use for daily driving are 20" Lariat Sport wheels, like the ones in the thumbnail, but I also have the stock set of 17's with 28" tall tires on them, having the short tires is like having 4.10 gears with the 31" "stock" tires. It's a lot more fun to drive that way. The 17's are also a lot lighter as well, probably 10-20 pounds a wheel. As for the tires, they're a BFGoodrich Advantage TA (275/55R20)
I swapped a 2017 F150 XLT 5.0, (had IMRC issues) to 2018 GT Intake, got the manifold ported for MAP sensor, and also have installed plug ins to keep IMRCs...everything in the back is connected, but the front has open vaccuums that do not match , sensor behind throttle body has no place for connection...can you understand the place or part I'm speaking of? HELP!
I know you have to move a couple of the vacuum lines because the ports are in different spot. The sensor behind the throttle body is the evap control solenoid! The gen 3’s have an external one. You could probably cap it and leave it!
I have a 2017 ford f150 5.0 and I’m wondering if change the entire intake manifold or just the IMRC because it’s making a weird sound like it’s sucks air in the IMRC so what do you think I should do or what do you think the problem might be?
I know that 15-17 manifolds have really bad issues and they’ve very expensive to buy new and parts are available to repair them from what I know. Last I knew a new gen 2 manifold from the dealership was over $1,000.
Do you know if the boss 302 intake works with the 3rd gen 5.0 in the 2022 f150?
It will physically bolt on yes! I'm pretty sure the stock fuel rails work as well. But you will have to create provisions for the MAP sensor and it will obviously need a custom tune.
Hey buddy I'm in process of doing this to my 2016 5.0 f150 what tune do I need to make everything work with no cel I bought a bully dog bdx 40470 will the e87 tune be all I need the intake I will be using is from a 2018 truck not the mustang gt manafold
You’ll need the adapter harnesses for sure for the IMRC’s but you can use the ones they make for a mustang since the plugs are the same. The emissions lugs will be in different spots but should be relatively painless.
Will this intake benefit the 2012 Coyote F150 ?
Where did you get the quick connect fitting for the fuel line ?
I bought the tools at O'reilly's I believe, you can buy them at almost any parts store, though. If you're asking about the actual fuel lines themselves, I can get you part numbers if need be, but they're all the original factory Ford fittings. However, 15-17 trucks wont have the fuel line going to the passengers bank because they don't have Direct Injection.
I have a 2011 XLT 5.0.. just installed a cat back rough country exhaust system, after market k&n cold air intake.. I've saved about 2,000 and wanna put into engine.. Being that you're very familiar with these motors I'm curious to see what you would recommend to make more horsepower for the buck?? Thanks
For $2k I’d say a GT manifold and a good tune would be the best value!
12.70 @109 is what my tuned SHO runs. We would be a great race.
I’m always down for a good race 😁
Will any boss 302 manifold fit any year 5.0 f150? Been wanting to get one for my 2020 f150 but not sure which 302 would fit mine😬
It will, it takes a little more modifying that the GT manifold but it will directly bolt on!
Video is very informative, replacing mine on my 2017 5.0 cause p2007 code. Just wonder what gaskets I may need ?
Did you delete the IMRC's? That code is related to IMRC's as well.
@@dugganracecraft Nope I didn't, just ended up replacing the intake manifold
Sorry, I just need a little bit more information, did you replace the manifold on your truck with another stock Gen 2 truck manifold or did you replace it with a Gen 3 Mustang manifold? If you did the Mustang manifold, did you get the adapter harnesses to run the IMRC's on the new mustang manifold?
How do you get the passenger side imrc clip off, I’ve been having issues trying to get it off
I’m sure you’ve got it figured out by now but a lot of cussing and tugging, I wish I had more information to help you 😂
should I replace the fuel injector seals that seat in the manifold?
It really depends on miles and condition but generally I would say no if they still feel pliable and soft!
Is it possible to replace the MAP sensor without removing the intake?
I suppose it's possible? I wouldn't recommend it though.
I got all of my hoses out the way, and bolts loosened up on the intake manifold. When I try to bring it forward enough to remove the IMRC plugs there's little to no movement. I'm assuming the harnesses are attached to the back and stopping me. Did you blindly snap those off or did you have more play in your wiring to bring the manifold towards the front of the truck? I have a P2007 error and attempting this myself but limited movement on the intake once it's broken loose.
Yes the harness is clipped to the back of the intake manifold in at least 2 places which is terribly annoying. But yeah, there are the 2 (or 4) plugs for the IMRC's but there's also the plug for the MAP sensor. I used a christmas tree removal tool that I cut down to fit back there but you could possibly pull on the harness which I don't recommend but would work!
@@dugganracecraft after about an hour of struggling to reach it, having my phone back there so I could see what I was doing, I finally got the clips off. I did have to buy the door panel tool, and there were more than a few choice cuss words though. My intake has a hose out the back that eventually connects to the brake booster. It has the dual clip clamp requiring 2 pliers and guess what, the tabs are towards the intake and is impossible to get off without removing the intake first. Now to watch the tail end of you video re-installing this bad boy! IF, I can get my hands on one of the global back-ordered intakes that are $570 now.
@@dugganracecraft thanks for the your video & your help. I was able to get an intake and install it yesterday. It's hard to believe a $2.00 piece of cheap material costs us $600 to replace the entire manifold. It seems I have more lower end power than before so I'm curious how long I've had this issue before receiving the P2007 error.
I'm glad to hear that everything worked out! I forgot to note the few difference between the 15-17's and the 18+!
Is there any other way to get to the MAP sensor if need to replace?
Not without removing the manifold unfortunately
Have you checked out circle d converters. They work
I have done a little bit of research, I think circle D is the best brand to use on newer vehicles and have heard a lot of great things. However, I'm not too impressed with their 10r80 converters, I've heard of a lot of people having issues with longevity and even guys having the transmissions get tore up when the converter fails. The issue I'm hearing most is something along the lines of the center guide for the input shaft basically eating itself alive. I don't remember exactly but it's something along those lines. Eventually I'll get one but that's a little bit down the road!
It says 2015+, but I thought 15-17 is Gen 2 and the imrc won't work , is that correct? I am looking at doing a intake swap because my runner control just went out
Yeah that’s pretty common from what it seems like, you can get the adapter harness for the IMRC from VMP!
What did it run before swap? How many tenths improvement, and mph. Also hows it in town between that 3 to 5k rpm? Thanks
Drivability and part throttle drivability are virtually the same. Direct A-B test I would say 3 tenths and 6 mph.
Great video! I have a question, will the stock air intake work with the GT manifold?
Thank you! Yes it will! However, if you use a Boss Manifold or a Cobra Jet you'll need an aftermarket cold air!
So without the imrc delete the truck won't work right. Right cause I delete mine and the truck is having alot of problems.
I'm not sure about that tbh. In theory it should still run fine, but throw a CEL for the IMRC's being unplugged. I forgot to plug them back in once and it ran like a dog up top because the runners wouldn't switch. The only thing I can think of for your particular issue is the vacuum line that the IMRC's originally used not being plugged.
@@dugganracecraft should I take off the manifold and start all over again. I'm also getting a code on my sct scanner p1702 tcm transmission control module. It happen when it came off the dyno .
Greetings, I have a f 150 2018 5.0 and I would like to know where I can buy the manifold, thanks
You can buy them new from like Tasca parts online for around $450 shipped but you can find them on Facebook marketplace or eBay for less!
Do you need to do the E85 R tune for this to work?
Not necessarily, it just has to be tuned for the GT intake regardless of what fuel you’re running.
The 2019 GT manifold is the same right? Gonna buy a 2019 one to put on my 18 f150
Yessir! They're the same all the way up until the 2023!
Will the 302 intake fit a 2017f150
Yes it would
I found 1 intake manifold for my truck, is there a big difference between original ford part vs aftermarket?
Thank you
As far as I’m aware, no one makes an aftermarket manifold but you can’t get better than OEM in my opinion!
@dugganracecraft , I bought it, aftermarket and is installed already , all good, works
Do you or anyone for that matter, know if the install on this mustang intake is the same or similar to an 18+ f150 manifold upgrade. Looking to do the Oz tunning, IMCR fix it kit.
It’s exactly the same install wise, just different intake manifolds!
@@dugganracecraft thanks for the reply, what did you do with the purge valve off of the front?
Cut the original hard hose off and used some vacuum line to hook it up!
@@dugganracecraft thanks, exactly how i have mine ran. Seems to all be fine with it.
2 Questions.
1). Why Lund Racing tuning over other companies?
2). Did you ever add an aftermarket intake to the manifold? If so, was much gained?
I went with Lund because I already had an Ngauge when I bought this truck, eventually I needed to switch to the RTD and it was the cheapest at the time.
I never did a bolt on aftermarket kit but I did build a ram air intake for it and it did seem to pick up a little bit but not a lot.
Quick question. Will a 2018 f150 manifold work on a 2016 f150 with no issues (5.0)?
Yes, only difference being the IMRC plugs. They're different between the two. I've heard of people using adapter connections with varying degrees of success. Otherwise you could delete them and not have to deal with it!
@@dugganracecraft thank you!
Did you use the throttle body that was on the stock manifold on the mustang manifold
They’re the same throttle body as far as I know! I know they’re the same size, and as far as I know, they should be the same part number as well.
Same size tb but gen2 and gen3 have a different software on them. I put a gen3 intake my my gen2 truck motor in my fox and it wouldn’t idle correctly, once i swapped the gen2 truck tb on the gen3 stang intake it ran fine.
How much did you gain in the 1/8 or 1/4 mile with the IM and retune?
I don’t remember 1/8th mile gains off hand but I picked up 5 mph and 5 tenths to the quarter!
We want more truck sauce!
Can you handle all that sauce?
which is better the 302 boss or the 18 gt?
It really depends, if I did it over again, I would do a boss manifold. But it all really depends on who’s tuning it.
What can I do with my twenty nineteen ford explorer sport
A tune would be a huge difference! Gen 2 3.5 EBs are pretty crazy with a tune!
What tuning had to be done after the intake install?
I did have the truck tuned after the intake but I have ran it without a tune without issue.
More content on the F150! Have an 18 crew cab and would like to see the progress on yours
Honestly, progress has been slow to non-existent with it as of recently. I have high hopes for it in the near future with seeing how fast I can make it N/A but most of my time and resources are being used on my '78 Mustang!
@@dugganracecraft i understand, appreciate the response!
When you swap intake do you have to tune it
So.... officially speaking yes. Personally, I've ran it on the stock tune before and it runs fine. Mainly because the trucks are MAP so as long as the MAP sensor is functioning properly the computer can do the compensating. I don't recommend not tuning it though because hardware changes should be associated with software changes as well and assume no responsibility or liability for damages occurring to anyone's vehicle. Attempt at your own risk.
Can a intake manifold bolt be replaced?
Not that I’m aware of? You could press out a bolt and press a new one in I suppose
Would a 2017 GT manifold work with a 2018 F150? Anything else I would need to do?
That would be a silly thing to do. may as well ask if you can swap out the 5.0 engine
for a 2v 4.6
I agree with Mr. Trucker, with how much the 15-17 manifolds are selling for on EBay ($400+) you can easily get into a used 18+ manifold. The gains you would see with a 15-17 are negligible at best.
Would this work with a gt350 mani?
Yup, same basic principal. You would need IMRC adapters if you retain them though I’m pretty sure
Can you do safely 8k rpms?
Oh definitely, these engines are designed to handle the RPM. The Gen III coyote engine is the same long block as what comes in the 2018+ Mustangs and F-150's.
Man how can I get in touch with you? I’ve got some questions and I can’t seem to find the answers anywhere.
You can email me! Dugganracecraft@gmail.com
why not the boss 302 intake? or is this basically the same?
I’m actually in the process of doing the 18+GT versus the Boss Manifold on my Coyote Swapped Mustang. I have a video coming soon on it. I like the GT manifold more, especially on the truck because it’s so much more responsive in the midrange which is really nice in a heavy truck for obvious reasons. If I raced it more, it would definitely get a boss manifold.
Sweet look forward to the video. Thanks!
Would this effect low end torque like for towing? I’d like to give my truck more power but not lose low end
You do lose juuuuust a little down low, but I was still able to pull just fine with the mustang manifold. I pulled a 4,200 pound car over 800 miles on it and it went great!
@@dugganracecraft That's good to hear. I intend to pull an SXS with this truck but wasn't too sure about installing a GT manifold due to that reason. Thank you
Does this intake fit a 2011 f150 5.0
Yes it will.
@@dugganracecraft wich intake do you recommend more for a gen 1 coyote f150 this one or the boss 302 one?
Probably the 18 GT manifold. It still performs the same and makes the same power but keeps a lot of torque down low
Opps!!!!! I have broken the law many times, please forgive meeeee!!!!! I have taken the converters off of everyone of my hotrods 😭😭😭😭🚗💨💨💨💨🚓🚔🚓 Im running now before the cops get me. 🤣😂😂 cool little mod for the truck, those coyotes are hard to beat
I’m not prepared to say that I’ve never had the cats off the truck, but I’m also not prepared to say that I have lol surprisingly with these new cats, it makes verrrryyy little performance difference. I’ve ran it back to back with and without and it ran basically the same times both times. But it sounds much faster without them. 😚😚😋
@@dugganracecraft 😂🤣😂 yeah they have figured out how to make them a lot less restrictive than the older ones, but it does sound so much better without them because they still muffle out some of the great sound that we have all enjoyed without them. That is a really good time that the truck ran pretty much all stock, that thing has got to be fun to drive
@@79beans347 oh it’s a blast, the 10 speed is unbelievable. I’ve been 12.16 @ 113.5 at the track last year. I was going to try to go 11’s this year but ended up picking the GT and well, you know how that goes lol
What gears do u have
I have 3.55's currently, but I'll be swapping to 4.10's sometime soon.
@@dugganracecraft ohh I got 3.15s open differential on mine it still spins from a dig but I really wanna try 3.55s how do they do ?
Comes to the video to see how to get the back side connectors off… video has that part completely cut out 😂😭
Sorry boss :/ it’s very hard to show those plugs, they have sliding locks on them if that helps!
Cattless?
I will not confirm or deny if it is, because that’s against the law. But there’s a chance that it has been.
All that to pick up 3/10ths? No thanks
Hey, it's not a modification for everyone. But, it was much more than 3/10ths. My best Stock manifold time was 12.95 @ 106.9, my best time with the mustang manifold was a 12.09 @ 113.5MPH. It really not that much work for quite a large gain in my opinion, but if it's not worth it for you then I totally understand!
Appreciate the fact that dude has an "I'm getting this shit done no matter what" attitude, but that intake manifold is HACKED. Even the "pre-modified and pre-drilled" manifolds for the F150 MAP sensor from some performance companies look sketchy. I don't doubt the validity of tuning, but all the work you have to go through with the manifold for negligible gains just isn't worth it.
I definitely agreed it's a little hacked, I refuse to hide stuff like that. The mustang manifold just wasn't designed to have the MAP sensor in the back, plain and simple. But I will disagree that the difference it makes is negligible. At face value, sure it doesn't make tons more power. BUT it makes a boat load more under the curve and spins another 2,500 RPM more than the stock manifold. But that's my subjective opinion, it's worth it for me but I completely understand that for a lot of people that it's not.
With that being said, eventually it'll get the best type of intake manifold, a belt driven one ;)
@@dugganracecraft There isn't a mechanic out there that hasn't has a "that probably could have gone better" moment. It's the official hallmark of my career. LoL. Sometimes, however, ya gotta get shit done. That's the job. Apparently, you can purchase these manifolds pre-drilled and ported, but it ain't cheap. 600-650, and that's without the tune. Not gonna lie though, it does look like a fun project, though I'd probably be cursing out Ford along the way for the lack of access to the IMRC connectors. I'm personally not a fan of IMRC deletes, as they do provide performance value, though it can be a potentially costly repair should that system fail. As far a the superchargers, those things are just siiiiiiiickkkk. Bang for the buck, it's probably the most cost effective, though you better save some coin for future repairs. Put that much fun under the hood, you're gonna break something eventually. LoL
Definitely, in my opinion, you really should leave the IMRC's connected because there's no gain to deleting them. Fortunately, I bought this manifold before the prices went up lol I bought it for $289 from Fairway Ford on eBay back in 2018/19. But yes, you definitely need money put away for repairs lol. I had a Roush supercharged 2015 GT and unfortunately went through an engine and a transmission before I got rid of it. Some very expensive mistakes lol
I’m literally so jealous. Do you have an Instagram or Facebook? I’d like to keep in touch with you, I’m about to order the manifold.
No reason to be jealous! This is a very replicable set-up, although trucks are very hard to come by right now lol. My instagram is DugganRacecraft and I'm Sean Duggan on facebook!
@@dugganracecraft well I’m selling the truck lol looking for an 18 GT. What are your thoughts on Lund racing with the ngauge?