Part 1 Ford Flex oil leak, coolant loss, P0016 water pump replacement
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Part 1 Ford Flex
In this video demonstration I take you through the process I used to identify the source of an oil leak along with coolant loss, overheating and a code P0016
In addition we begging the process of removing and replacing the water pump and various timing components
I apologize for the lack of step by step information and pieced together footage however I feel this information would still be valuable as is, hope you enjoy
Finished the job.The engine is quiet, no leaks, runs smooth, p0016 code is gone. 2010 flex had p0016 code, never overheated, had plenty of coolant in oil. pump shaft leaking from shaft with lots of side play. The bearing was binding and ready to blow apart. Impeller intact . I put in new oil and filter and I ran it for one day. Then drained oil and replaced with new oil and filter. Oil is still clear and maintaining level. I am a mechanic who works on material handling equipment and older engines at work. I have always worked on my own cars. Without your video it would have been very difficult job. One of the most challenging jobs ever done. Without outside connections it would have been difficult to link the code to the water pump. You help is invaluable. My flex has 125,000 miles.
Engineers and Architects...I wish they forced to do work on their own creations. It would eliminate half of all poor design flaws.
I can not thank you enough for this video. I am stuck with the same problem and thanks ALL to you, I have my 'Ace in the hole '.
God Bless You and your Family.
having the same issue
They design it to maximize repair profits.
excellent video. the shop manual pics really help me understand the orientation of which part you are talking about. Also you know your stuff and are very thorough.
The water pump on my 09 Flex went bad at 70000 mi. Luckily the extended warranty covered the repair minus the deductable. I just noticed some coolant loss dealer service found the problem. Glad I did'nt tackle it myself ! Love your vids Will,keep em coming!
Having done this job many times as a dealer tech I can't believe they told you that...
But then again I'm not so surprise,not all the techs are up to the task..I never had them for that code but def for overheating and leaking out of that hole.
I'm actually gonna do one in the mks,which has a similar engine 3.7l..
Great job man..
Very nice. The bolt head measurements and bolt "counts" are very helpful for us shade tree types!
Working on a 2007 Mazda CX-9 3.5L same engine same problem, is the most intense water pump job so far. A water pump should never be this complicated to replace nor be placed in a spot that could lead to coolant and oil mix which can easily escalate to engine replacement, horrible design... Thank you for taking the extra time to get this on video which i know adds on extra hours of labor you dont get paid for, Thanks
You would think that Ford would have learned a lesson from Chrysler putting water pumps inside of an engine. I guess they figured they would last until the warranty expired, after that who gives a damn. Nice diagnosis, keep em coming.
thought i'd add a suggestion from doing this myself just now. i'd removed the coolant overflow tank, so the large hose to the bottom of the radiator was sitting open. i capped the nipple on the t-stat (used for the crossover hose to the coolant overflow tank). had my son hold the wet vac on the large coolant overflow hose as i cracked the water pump off very slowly. the wet vac pulled up about a gallon of coolant, and only a few ounces drained down. i had a large rag in the oil pan (after using the wet vac to get the last of the oil). upshot, only a few ounces of coolant went into the rag, and none at all into the oil pan. the wet vac on the coolant overflow hose got almost all of it.
key is to keep two bolts in the water pump, and crack it loose very gradually, loosing the screws as you go.
thought i'd add this to the most helpful video i've found for this procedure. good to see you have your boy helping too. THANKS AGAIN!
That is a great tip, although I will never venture into this mess myself. Good to see your son helping you too.
I just wanted to thank you for the great videos regarding this issue with the water pump on the Ford Flex! the videos made my life easier and I was able to check and repair my Ford Flex with no problems. Thanks again!
Thank you for the excellent video, I have been searching a week trying to find this information. I have the service manual, but a video goes so much further.
Great video, and awesome diagnosis!!! It will be interesting to see what happens in Part 2, and why we failed to get coolant from the weep hole... Thanks for posting this man, please get part 2 up asap...you left us with a cliff hanger! Take care man!
Well here we go. About to tackle this on my 2009 flex with 136k. I plugged what I think was the upper weep hole not knowing what it was and why coolant was leaking, now I have a leak below the alternator. No coolant in the oil, so outer seal probably ok but inner likely shot. These two videos will help with my service manual.
Your the best. I have a flex with the identical problem. Got the p0016 code, leaking from the shaft and bearing almost seized up on water pump. Just about done with the job and all is going well so far. Thanks for your excellent demonstration and photography.
So how do I quickly notice the leak and turn off the car, the liquid will not damage the engine? I rode slowly for 3 km. I noticed the fan working. I stopped and didn't drive the car anymore. Today the mechanic will replace the pump and timing belt. I look at the oil dipstick and see a lot of fluid in the engine. I think 2-3 liters.
Nice video. Cannot wait to see how things turn out. I don't know about these fords but if the VVT cam advancers are hydraulic but on the 5.7L VVT hemi's if you use the wrong viscosity oil it wont advance properly causing a cam/crank code. I bet that since there is water in the oil it changed the oils viscosity and thus caused those VVT advancers to not operate properly. Keep us posted on what happens!
Same everything on the Taurus lol just a different body but same power train the older Taurus weren’t even this bad. I got to tear this same setup down tomorrow I’ll be using your tips. Thanks a lot you remind me of diesel tech Ron with the diesel tips
They really dicked this up by hiding the water pump like that. Thanks for the vid, Will! Looking forward to part 2!
Great video I love the way you explain everything
Awesomely detailed description! I wish you were where we are.
I changed the water pump on a Mazda Cx9 with the 3.7L.
TON OF WORK.
Those duratecs are Great engines with the FWD water pump as a massive flaw.
Nice work, Ford......FML.
So how do I quickly notice the leak and turn off the car, the liquid will not damage the engine? I rode slowly for 3 km. I noticed the fan working. I stopped and didn't drive the car anymore. Today the mechanic will replace the pump and timing belt. I look at the oil dipstick and see a lot of fluid in the engine. I think 2-3 liters.
Nice- I think the belt is a stretch fit that uses a tool to put a new one on.
Yes you are correct, they have a special tool for removal and installation
robinsonsauto Large zip tie and bumping the starter works. Then just cut the zip off. Gates or Goodyear shows the procedure on the box for the replacement belt.
P0016 is the sign of water pump failure at bearing / seal. I am currently doing a 2007 Edge same engine. Although the coolant went into the oil and read overfilled on dipstick. Did a drain of oil after having it towed. and then a refill . pulled the fuel pump relay and cranked it over a few times to recoat the bearing with oil. Drained again and did it again but left it to sit until I could get to it this way the crank wasn't sitting in coolant mixed oil. Will use motor flush to rise the cams both sides with some brake clean. Then will drain oil before disassembly. Lots of cleaning to do. I opted to replace timing set all tensioners and guides, vvt solenoids, oil pump, water pump and since the crank bolt and the 4 bolts for Phasers are a one time use those bolts too. while at it belt tensioner both belts. Also using the motorcraft sealant for cover ( 5oz tube 38.00) Mind you all parts are Motorcraft ( don't want to do this job twice because of aftermarket parts failing. I think the worst thing is that some Ford engineer thought it would be a good idea to put the water pump inside the engine, what were they drinking or smoking? And yes I have the cam tool.
Great video! My Mazda 3 has a similar set up for the ac compressor belt. It's a self tensioning melt. There's a special belt removing tool by Lisle that makes removal and install easy. But I'm sure you already knew that. As a home mechanic it was a real head scratcher the first time I had to remove the belt.
Yup your correct, special tool for removal and install, just seems It could have been done deferent, thanks for the feedback
You absolutely right, i had same problem. It was the water pump. Thanks you for help. Good job.
Excellent diagnostic work. What a nightmare of a job though.....kinda a terrible design but it is what it is. Looking forward to Pt 2.
love the video the P/S belt is a stretch belt you remove and replace with an inexpensive tool.
Or zip ties 🤔
I have the same symptoms (2010 Flex) except no oil leak and my oil level is high. I just dropped it at the dealer today, hopefully they diagnosis it as the water pump. Until watching your video I was thinking head gasket or cracked head/block.
great video, I liked the parts/repair diagram cutaways too. So, the oil leak was oil getting through the water pump weep hole?
😉 your the first to mention that, yes that's my beliefs I will be trying to explain more in part 2 thanks for the feed back
kauboi I like the diagrams too. First the viewer gets the real life look at the engine, and then the diagram to orient to the engine view. Just how you would like information feed to you if you were working on the vehicle. Great format!
That belt on the power steering is called a stretch belt. I guess a lot of guys just put it back on when they put everything back together. You can use a zip tie to hold it on the crank then spin it around and cut the zip tie
Hello, I very much enjoyed your video series. Great job. I have a 2010 Ford Taurus 3.5L and will soon be replacing the water pump and assorted parts. Could you please confirm what service manual you used? It seems that pictures in your video were from a shop manual. A good manual would be so helpful as I soon will be tackling this large job. Thanks so much.
Wow, I had no idea that some cars have an internal water pump. On one video, I can't recall if it was a Mercedes but the starter motor was mounted in the lifter valley.
Thanks for the information. I m running through the same situation with my 2008 lincoln MKZ. The temperature went up, took it to the shop, they thought it was the thermostat but at last figure it out it was the water pump. I will go back again tomorrow, hopefully the engine is not messed up. I wonder how common this problem is, the car has 132k
So how do I quickly notice the leak and turn off the car, the liquid will not damage the engine? I rode slowly for 3 km. I noticed the fan working. I stopped and didn't drive the car anymore. Today the mechanic will replace the pump and timing belt. I look at the oil dipstick and see a lot of fluid in the engine. I think 2-3 liters.
I know this is an old video but damn, excellent diagnosis work. What do you think of this engine btw?
Always been a fan of yours. It's great how far you'll go to do the right thing. Thanks a lot.
Do you remember how many miles it had before you changed the water pump?
Thanks for your time!!
You are the man, I missed your vids a lot while you were away. What a video to come back on, some pretty darn good Sherlock stuff on that one. !!!! Love your vids.
make sure to have the special cam shaft holding tool and a large torque wrench when doing this job. If you have compression(not resistance) its because the spark plugs are still in.
Would love to know how you got the timing chain plate off. It has thick silicone on it
you definetly have your orange timing chain marks you mentioned there just about 10 teeth off from where they need to be. wonder if somebody has been in there before you working with the chain. good work
Way to go Will .. What was Ford thinking when they built that thing ? Seems like the dealers are treating engines and transmissions like Bic lighters any more .. Any trouble replace it ! Stupid waist .. Good job on the vid great content !!
Update!! See past question. How did you keep the crank from turning when breaking lose the crank bolt? Is it ok to use the cam locking tool? I’m replacing the chains anyways? On VW and Audi it’s a locking tool. You remove block bolt and insert a specialty tool, basically all it is hardened bolt that locks the crank in place. But I doubt Ford thought of that
I finally received my Ford Flex service Manual. Read to use a strap wrench. I improvised by using the old serpentine belt and vicegrips
Awesome video. Very thorough. Thank you!
Thank you Brother! your one of the good ones!
Thank you so much for this video. 2011 ford explorer same engine. Same problem except for more timing chain related codes. I have P0014 P0016 P0017 and P0019 and the car runs like crap. Same coolant leak from same spot. no oil leak though but I do have very little vacuum to the brake booster so no power brakes now. All cylinders misfiring. Oil looked okay except the same milky substance under the oil cap. I'm guessing the chain is pretty loose now?
As usual great job Will !
looks like a major PIA to work on,,,was looking ar getting a Flex,,,but not so much anymore
Good call pulling the timing cover to check the water pump. I don't believe you mentioned the mileage on this engine, just the year.
Ozzstar We know it is out of warranty, so Ford has a 5 year, 60k mileage warranty on the drivetrain, so we know its over 60k.
***** that still doesn't answer the question, only makes a statement
Great work Sir. How many miles are on this vehicle? Will you recommend to the owner to replace the timing chain, tensioner, and guides while you are in there? Thanks for posting.
Enjoyable to watch. Thanks.
6:11 pm ET August 14, 2018 (PR Newswire)
The law firm of Kessler Topaz Meltzer & Check, LLP announces that it has filed a class action lawsuit against Ford Motor Company ("Ford") in the Eastern District of Michigan on behalf of all persons in the United States who purchased, own, owned, lease or leased the following vehicles: Ford Edge (2007-2018); Ford Explorer (2011-2018); Ford F150 (2015-2017); Ford Flex (2009-2018); Ford Fusion (2010-2012); Ford Taurus (2008-2018); Lincoln MKX (2007-2010); Lincoln MKZ (2007-2012); and Mercury Sable (2008-2009). The case is Roe, et al. v. Ford Motor Company, Case No. 2:18-cv-12528.
Owners or Lessees of Ford vehicles with a defective water pump who wish to discuss their legal rights or interests are encouraged to contact Kessler Topaz Meltzer & Check, LLP (James Maro, Esq. or Adrienne Bell, Esq.) at (888) 299-7706 or (610) 667-7706, or via e-mail at info@ktmc.com. For additional information please visit: www.ktmc.com/ford-lincoln-water-pump-engine-failure.
The complaint alleges that, beginning in 2007 and continuing through the present, Ford has equipped millions of vehicles sold under the Ford, Lincoln and Mercury brand names with the Ford Cyclone Engine, also known as the Duratec engine. Unbeknownst to purchasers and lessees of these vehicles, the Ford Cyclone Engine contains a defect in design, manufacturing, materials and/or workmanship that causes the water pump to suddenly and prematurely fail--before the end of the useful life of the engine--and can lead to catastrophic engine failure.
The chain-driven water pump in the Ford Cyclone Engine is located internal to the engine. When the water pump prematurely fails, coolant leaks from the water pump directly into engine parts or the oil pan, destroying essential engine components or mixing with the engine's oil. In many cases, this mixture of engine oil and coolant is carried throughout the engine, leading to destruction of the engine. This often occurs with little to no warning. Despite having knowledge of this defect, Ford has continued selling defective vehicles, has failed to disclose the defect to owners and lessees, has not issued a recall, and has not remedied the issue and/or compensated owners and lessees of the defective vehicles.
**** Note, I have no idea what KTMC defines as "useful life" because I think Ford would say that if it lasted >150k, you got a full 'useful life' out of the product. Guess we'll see in court... I think it's a stupid design to begin with, but whatever.. Amazing work you did in fixing this car!!
This lawsuit was dismissed last year. Ford escaped.
This is a common problem, it also happen to me in a 2011 explorer
nikond90 yes it later became a common issue this video was from years ago
Your video and diagnosis are excellent. My frustration is with ford. I was quoted 3K to replace water pump phasers and other parts or 6K for a new engine. Great videos, keep up the great work!
I guess there is a class action suit going on with ford over this design. Get on the list if your engine is ruined
I think that water pump bushing is so loose oil was getting past it leaking down the weep hole out the side of the block that is supposed to be an escape for the coolant leaking out the bushing!!
Good call my thoughts exactly thank you for the feedback
Customer is very lucky not to have a blown engine! Great video as always look forward to part two!
Love this video....my Flex has this problem......are you located in Massachusetts...?
Great video. I'm fixing to do a 2013 explorer water pump. Where would I find the torque specs
how hard was to remove the cover with so little room
It's not bad. When I do this on Explorers, Taurus' and Flexes, I pull the the wipers and cowl off. It gives you a lot more room and a straight shot to get the cover back on, especially with all the sealant being wet and not wanting to get it everywhere. Before tat' it would always smear somehwere and it drove me nuts.
This is a deliberate Ford way of getting your service bill money and it is a huge bill to do you have to pull the drive train to do it right this was the stupidest place to put the water pump / the other was the catalytic converter they use to put it as far back away from the motor so not to burn them up now they melt there right at The manifold they do not need to be there in fact I had a used car that had some good mileage that I bought and where we lived every two years we had to go get a inspection to get plates I took it off and the cat and it didn't have any guts to it so i just put it back on and got tested and passed the whole test !
Great videos a lot of detail but can u tell me what parts you replaced? I no the timing chain kit and water pump but I have a mechanic that whants to replace eveything that was contaminated by the fluids my car never over heated cause it wouldn't stay running cause the timing was off.
The other option is to drop the whole subframe, engine, and drivetrain. Do you think that would be easier?
what i'd like to know i didn't see addressed, at what engine miles this occurred? and were the plastic chain guides holding up or worn a little or worn badly? and can we agree a small amount of anti-freeze is enough to dilute the oil and lower oil pressure enough to affect timing and set up P0016 code timing out of sync? thx
I like your inspection camera, what brand and model is it?
24:11 "Man that's definitely the problem!" lol that w/p was shot!!
Thanks for posting this! Been very helpful. I'm stuck on removing power steering pump. What did you do to get access to those 4 bolts that hold the pump on?
Me too!
thank you for your efforts...
Robinsons auto. How did you get the power steering pump back on. The top bolt closest to the pulley doesn't want to go in because the high pressure hose is right in front of the mounting hole on the pump?
I'm doing the same job right now and I'm kinda stuck... how did you get that power steering pump out??
On the Avasva you can count on professional help with problems and technical support.
I was watching this video to see how you removed the power steering pump.what a real pain in the ass.I lowered the front sub from as is says in the Haynes manual but its not down enough to get at the bolts going through to the timing cover.
07 ford edge
Thank you so much! this is what just happened to us, I have everything torn down and waiting for parts. I'm going to pull the oil pan to clean really well in there. Did you use brake cleaner on the top of the heads or just in the timing chain area?
So how do I quickly notice the leak and turn off the car, the liquid will not damage the engine? I rode slowly for 3 km. I noticed the fan working. I stopped and didn't drive the car anymore. Today the mechanic will replace the pump and timing belt. I look at the oil dipstick and see a lot of fluid in the engine. I think 2-3 liters.
What year is this ford flex? I have a 2012 Ford Flex limited 3.5 and wondering if all this on this video is the same procedure to our 2012 ford flex?
So how do I quickly notice the leak and turn off the car, the liquid will not damage the engine? I rode slowly for 3 km. I noticed the fan working. I stopped and didn't drive the car anymore. Today the mechanic will replace the pump and timing belt. I look at the oil dipstick and see a lot of fluid in the engine. I think 2-3 liters.
What a stupid design running the water pump of the timing chain, reminds me of the Chrysler 2.7 motors....
Life saver Thank you!
Would you be able to head with the heads sequence and torques along with cam caps ?
Had the same problem on my wife's 2010 flex.
I secretly called and found out from Ford corporate that ALL Ford FWD chassis 3.5L/3.7L NA & turbo have this timing-chain water pump design issue (2007-2019), which can easily cost up to $3,000 in labor by dealer to change a $50 part if it fails. The only difference here is Ford upgraded the water pump bearing later on, but this problem still cannot be avoided at all. The bearings have limited lifespan that will eventually fail some day at any random mile. If coolant leaks from failed water pump, it destroys the engine completely. Ford refuses to relocate water pump with new design. This is a time-ticker engine bomb that fails whenever it likes to, and millions of people that already bought this are actually affected. Please look at Chevrolet instead. Consumer Reports already rated Chevrolet (all models) more-reliable than Ford.
you think this is bad? Ford flex is not the only one ...ford edge and Taurus are the same and I also believe that some Lincoln's have the same engine's...Ford built though...to repair...
good thorough and detailed. thanks for taking the effort. subb'd
How long did it take to complete that job ya think?
Hi I'm having the same problem on a 2009 Lincoln MKZ from the same weep hole behind the alternate Inking coolant ,,I think is the same the water pump , how can I make sure is what, is causing that??
great video will thanks for sharing nice call on the waterpump like your video scope does your video scope work with a pc and usb cable to upload videos?
Awesome channel!
what are the bolt part #/s for the cam phasers? If they need replaced?
A lot of these Flex(es) are literally totaled because of the water pump, and the time it takes to diagnose/repair it.
Hi there is it the same for Ford edge I mean water pump location??
Thanks
Will a 2008 ford edge with 3.5 be the same procedure
Wow! what was ford smokin on that one?
Chain drive water pump?!. That is bad...
Barry Kelly That seems like a terrible design. Does a timing chain place more stress on a water pump than a serpentine belt. Could someone design a bullet proof WP for this car?
Some people say this was already fixed starting with 2014 model year.
Hey are you guys located in Texas
Hi @Robinsonsauto I have the same 2010 Flex and the oil looks the same, how do I know if it is the water pump or the head gasket? Please help the fix its too expensive at a shop and I don't have the money to do it. but if it;s the pump it will be a little cheaper.
I do not know why so many people dis Ford for these Ecoboost engines. Do they realize that most every manufacture makes these engines, except Toyota which has announced they are going this route. Or Honda which is direct inject but they only offer the CVT transmission. Each manufacture has had problems too with misfires due to deposits on valves, fuel problems, and in Chevy's case; melting pistons due to running too lean. How about Nissan that starts this year not only direct injection but variable compression ratio engine. This will need to be opened completely for repair/inspection. This is the cost to want power and low emissions. However, look at Chevy multi displacement. 70K and Chevy recommend opening lower engine and replace pistons due to problems with deactivated cylinders. Talk about stupid engineering, by Chrysler/Dode AWD and it is controlled by temperature, not you the driver. Live in So. Cal and raining and I want AWD, and no I can't because it isn't under 42 degrees Fahrenheit. Trouble is finding technicians that know how to fix these cars and do a good job.
I think I messed up. I don't think the crankshaft seal is all the way to the end on mine. Oh my!
This is by far the hardest job I have had to do to a piece of machinery. Ford products suck!!!!!!!!!!! Let me tell you again this is the worst project ever!!
Thank you for the video!!
What A HUGE pain in the ass! It's obvious that the designers of that engine never work on 'em....My hat is off to you for diving into that mess. I hope you get paid well for it.
this is normally a $2000+ job
Good thinking!
This just happened to my 2010 edge. As soon as I saw it overheat I stopped running it. I’m changing the water pump and chains But coolant is mixed with oil. What are the chances the engine is still good? And how do I flush it or clean the engine from all the coolant mixing with oil?
I'm thinking you don't flush it. Instead, you place new (SYNTHETIC) oil after fixed and let it run idle until hot - and the water will evaporate itself out of the engine. Engine is still good if YOU stopped running it, instead of it stopping itself off. Not as new, of course, but it has some life left in it.
So how do I quickly notice the leak and turn off the car, the liquid will not damage the engine? I rode slowly for 3 km. I noticed the fan working. I stopped and didn't drive the car anymore. Today the mechanic will replace the pump and timing belt. I look at the oil dipstick and see a lot of fluid in the engine. I think 2-3 liters.
So how do I quickly notice the leak and turn off the car, the liquid will not damage the engine? I rode slowly for 3 km. I noticed the fan working. I stopped and didn't drive the car anymore. Today the mechanic will replace the pump and timing belt. I look at the oil dipstick and see a lot of fluid in the engine. I think 2-3 liters.
great video
thank you for posting !
What year flex is this?
nice video
Great video! I CAN NOT BELIEVE this design! But it kind of explains Ford engineers way of thinking when you listen to their technicians mentality : " Broken water pump=>replace engine "!!! Jesus!!!
Water pump change 1600.00 Change spark plug remove the intake .No fords for me!
hello , can I get away without using the cam holding tool like you did.