Contrast Painting Guide: Screamer-Killer from Leviathan in Hive Fleet Kraken Colors
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
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Hi everyone! Here is a Contrast painting tutorial featuring the Screamer-Killer Tyranid model from the new Warhammer 40,000 Leviathan box set, painted in a Hive Fleet Kraken color scheme. Make sure to subscribe and stay tuned for more! I'll be painting the entire box set and sharing more tutorials on the process.
Materials:
Grey Primer (Ace Hardware)
Wraithbone spray (Citadel)
Rosemary and Co series 99 sable brushes, sizes 2, 1, 0
Paints:
White and black (any brands)
Vallejo Game Color: Bonewhite, Offwhite
Games Workshop Contrast: Skeleton Horde, Flesh Tearers Red, Black Templar, Magos Purple, Gryph-Hound Orange.
Citadel Colour Layer/Base: Cadian Fleshtone, Incubi Darkness, Thunderhawk Blue, Fenrisian Grey, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Fire Dragon Bright, Dorn Yellow.
Acoustic Meditation 2 by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommon...
Artist: audionautix.com/
looks amazing!
It's very encouraging hearing this from such a big channel. Thank you!
@@MattsHobbyHour The "Trov" seal of approval... can't get any better praise.
The fact that you paint this well and don’t have more subscribers is criminal! Fantastic work!
Thank you! The channel is only a month old but I'm working hard to build it up, thanks for following!
Been painting for 10+ years. Very impressed with the quality of the paintjob and how beginner friendly it is. The community needs these. Great video my dude.
Thanks you! Will have plenty more to come. And some advanced stuff in the future as well.
@@MattsHobbyHour You could just make videos at this level and you're gonna do great. You got my sub.
That's just a stunning piece of art.Wasnt sure what hivefleet to paint my new nids but think you just made my mind up.
Thank you! I'll have some more Kraken videos posted over the next few weeks.
Extremely pleasant and helpful video as I research a kraken scheme
Thanks for watching! I'm glad it was helpful. Good luck with your Kraken army!
Like your scheme a lot! Might have to try it on my screamer killer. Also enjoyed the amount of brush time you show… seems like it’s just right. Not too long not too short 👌👌
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful. Happy painting!
Its a beautiful paint scheme, Matt
This is probably my favourite Tyranid tutorial I've watched since the release of Leviathan. Excellent work on the painting and the video both.
Thank you!
Just Epic! Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
This is fantastic Matt, you're as meticulous as I remember. I've been wanting to figure a good way to approach hivefleet Kraken and your timing couldn't be more impeccable.
Thanks Ivan! Glad it's helpful. Been a while. Hope life is going well for you!
Thx I've been looking for a guide for hive fleet kraken screamer-killer
Lovely video. Really relaxing actually.
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Look forward to more
Thanks! I'll be posting something new each Wednesday. And some extra stuff here and there too.
Awesome work, Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Amazing work, I bought leviathan today I'm using this scheme...incredible
Thanks! I'm glad you found this helpful. Stay tuned I'll be posting some tutorials for the other tyranids in the set soon! Happy painting
@MattsHobbyHour yes cant wait! as a space marine'r' moving onto nids has been daunting but I've found the kraken scheme I want now and can start lol...Great painting you have a bright future on RUclips ahead of you no doubt!
Excellent work, the color scheme is much more believable and *not* cartoony like how I've seen others paint their Tyranids.
Thanks! I do like my cartoony 2nd ed stuff too ;)
This is insane. Criminally underrated channel. You're a fantastic painter and have taught me a heck of a lot. Excited for more!
Thank you for the kind words! I'll keep em coming. Thanks for watching!
The advice on highlights is great!
Great job! This is rad!
Thanks!
Excellent video! Loved it.
Thank you!
I love how.. genuinely bug like this scheme is
You have just sold me on the Hive Fleet Kraken color scheme! Thanks and great painting!
Thanks! Will have a few more videos of the rest of the set over the coming weeks. All Kraken!
Excellent video!
Thank you Brother Mundo!
beautiful!!!!
Thank you!
In the video, you asked if anyone knew what the oval shaped areas might be. Well, I'm not the guy who knows for sure, but what I do know is there are several species of insects, amphibians, and maybe even fish (I'm looking at you walking fish!), who have those types of features. The short version is that these are oxygen transfer membranes for those times when the species isn't in its natural environment. They use these membranes to breathe. In real life they have the same type of texture and consistency of the human eardrum. In space monsters... who knows. But I imagine if Screamer-Killers invade multiple worlds with different types of atmospheres, they would need a way to breathe. All of this is just a guess though.
Great job on the video. You have a new subscriber and I look forward to future videos.
Cheers!
Very cool info. Thanks so much for sharing and for following!
Spiracles!
Yep you had me captivated after only 2 mins. I also now want the Nids from the Leviathan box set 🤣. GW stealth marketing (GW give this man free stuff) 👍👌
Thanks Kieth! Yep you should get it! I'm also kitbashing the marines for a video too. Lots of opportunities in that set.
I love this color scheme! Amazing work!
Thank you!
Love Kraken, it's how I'd paint nids. I think I might use a bit more flesh tearer to the black, but then I do love me some bright colours! This looked amazing, and is a great blend of simple and moderate techniques to practice with. Definitely a sub.
Thank you!
What little I’ve seen of you, you’re doing an awesome job, all your models and your videos rock, keep it up
Thank you! You'll see a lot more from me. I appreciate the kind words and encouragement
Great Video!
Thank you!
Awesome paint job, great video. I particularly enjoyed the close ups ,thanks man!
Thank you!
I just discovered your Channel, and I love your work. Your schemes are lovely, and the way you explain your process is informative and supremely relaxing
Thank you so much! Welcome to the channel
Found your video on a Google search and have to say I love this scheme and it's now going to be the one I use, happily subscribed and look forward to watching more of your videos
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful. This channel is brand new, I'm surprised it's coming up on Google already. Very cool
If you search contrast screamer killer and go to videos it's the 12th one down, now to hunt down a salamanders scheme for the space marines
The ‘cracks’ are Book Lungs. Spiders have them, they breathe through them, kinda like vents on their skin
very cool, thanks for letting me know!
Nice Job! Thanks for the tips
Thank you!
This looks ace. Nice work Matt!
Thanks HTM!
It was interesting to watch :)
Good job 👍🏻
Thanks!
This actually looks achievable! Subbed
Thanks! Good luck and happy painting
Great tutorial. I love the colors.
Thanks Ian!
Music giving me BuyPainted vibes, I miss him.
Awesome paintjob dude.
Thank you!
You are fitting to absolutely blow up, happy to be here before it happens :)
Thank you, hope that's the case! ;)
informative
!
Love this! I'm looking to do something similar for mine. Just found your channel and have subscribed.
-John
Thank you!
The parts you painted orange. in my mind those are like sinew or muscles or something. the reason the skin exposes them is because Tyranid skin is a lot tougher than ours, so isn't as elastic, so this is to give the creature more mobility/agility. If you think the skin is incredibly tough, it would hinder movement, so they have these splits in the skin so they can move properly.
Does this make sense? I could have definitely worded it better, but hopefully you can get the idea of what I'm trying to say. This is just my own head canon though, I have no idea what they really are. LoL.
i like this version of Kraken way more than the bright red that GW uses for the scheme
Thank you!
Hi Matt! I love your videos and painting guides. A quick tip for you on your video production. It appears that your camera is recording in an interlaced format and the progressive format used on youtube causes scan lines to appear on your videos. You may want to look at the recording format on your camera to see if you can bounce it in 1080p before going into your editing software.
Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the tip! I'm still very new to this whole process. I'm recording on a Nikon D5200 which is supposed to be able to record in 1080p... thought that's what I'm recording in but I'll have to double check. Thanks again!
Hey Matt! I did a little research on your camera and I can see that the manual shows you can record in 1920x1080 but only max 30 fps in progressive. Personally I think 30 is fine for painting videos since it’s not an action movie. Alternatively you can record in 1280x720 at 60p but you’d lose your picture quality. Hope this helps!
@@spencersmith2102 thanks! I really appreciate the insight. Lots for me to learn. If this venture catches on, which it seems to be doing, I'll probably invest in a 4k camera. Then I'll have less to worry about!
Awesome guide man! Been watching all your tyranid vids and I've just finished building my Leviathan box, i dont own any light grey primer so shouls I use mechanicus standard grey and wraithbone or just straight wraithbone to prime?
Thanks for watching them all! I think you'd have great results with either. If you use mechanicus grey first, you will get some deeper shading on the model compared to using just wraithbone. If you have a couple spare gaunts, maybe try out both priming methods and see which one you like more. Good luck!
@@MattsHobbyHour thanks alot I'll give it a go keep up the great content! 🙏
The only grey primer I have right now is Halfords, which won't be any good for this style of painting. I was thinking maybe doing a Zandri dust base with a Wraithbone Zenithal instead. Do you think this would give a good result, or should I wait till I can pick up some nicer, grey?
Did the zenithal step really add a lot to it? I guess it would on a bigger mini like this. Maybe this is something I can skip on gaunts and other smaller minis though?
I just would like to test out your scheme this week, and won't be able to pick up any more more grey rattlecan-stuff for a little over a week.
EDIT: (adding an edit as already left you like 4 comments, LoL) it really comes together with that orange highlight. It has beautiful unity with the magos purple.
I'm going to be doing a turquoise spot colour as well though, on the guns, brains etc (but also on my bases as using Trovarions frozen scheme) so hoping it will pop nicely. I knew it was going to work with a brighter red, so bound to work with this, too. Also the Turquoise goes well with the orange. I guess I'll know when it's done
zandri dust and wraithbone are close enough where I don't think it would make too much of a difference. I'd just use only wraithbone in that case. And you're right about it being more effective on a larger model. No worries on asking a few questions, I don't remember your other questions so I'll go reply to those comments now. Good luck!
@@MattsHobbyHour I think there will be more contrast between the zandri and the warithbone than the grey and wraithbone... unless the idea is to have a warm and cold tone to start with?
I will try the zandri/wraithbone zenithal anyway, just to se how it comes out.
I bought the bone white and off white Vallejo which are my first from the new bottles (I hear they have improved the formula of game paints, too) and got Magos Purple as well, so all set.
I think I will also mix a bottle of the chitin colour, like you suggested. was it 4:1 mix of red to black?
I'll likely just do a Gant as a tester, so will likely mostly be layering the bone colours on, rather than dry brushing. They are small enough to where I can just practice my manual, volumetric highlights on those guys.
I need to learn this for glazing, also.
I'm thinking about painting some Orks to learn to glaze, as they have the muscles which look perfect for learning this style of painting. all the shapes to learn for volumetric highlights, and then the glazing of them together.
Maybe I can do this with a big monster as well from my Nids. I have a bunch of older ones, and the Leviathan set.
Something about doing the green skin is alluring though. it looks like a fun and interesting way to learn some techniques (also adding warm flesh tones as accents around the face, palms and scar tissue and stuff. lots of techniques to learn on Orks)
@@D00M3R_MAVS good luck! Yes its approximately a 4:1 mix. The black templar is a strong color so add it in very small amounts at a time. Mix the paint and check the color before adding more black to the mix.
@@MattsHobbyHour Thanks.
did you thin the contrast paints at all, please? I thin my skeleton horde down, but not sure about your chitin mix? I was doing mephiston red as my chitin and then going to shade it down with a black, contrast mix. it doesn't want to work on the older sculpts though (I think die to the chitin being flat plastic and not having anything for the pigments to adhere to)
I think I'll continue with my Zoanthrope tester, and see how it looks finished. I may end up trying your chitin recipe though on some of my Leviathan sculpts.
I think I may try the mix to shade in on the mephiston red though on my Zoanthrope. I'd really like to be able to shade it in, but the paint just isn't behaving in a way I'm happy with.
I really think the contrat paints need that detail for the pigments to rest on, otherwise it ends up looking a mess.
It could just be that I need more practice with the paints though.
I would be interested in a tutorial on how you based it as well.
great idea, I'll make sure to include basing in the next Tyranid video. Thanks!
Maybe I'm dumb, but are you watering down the 3:1 mix of flesh tearers red and black templar?
The only reason I ask is you specifically mention watering down other colors later, is the black templar contrast watering it down!?
I dont water down that color at all.
This is a very helpful tutorial thanks. What did you paint the internal mouth with?
Thanks! I'm glad you found it helpful. I used a few different colors, same recipe as the mouth tentacles on the Psychophage model here: ruclips.net/video/Cb1pjmBUFkg/видео.html
@@MattsHobbyHour thank you
Will certainly be trying out your chitin recipe, as if I can get this to look good on the older sculpts, it will help me get a more uniform look for my army.
Did you put any contrast medium in this, or is it purely the 3:1 mix please?
Also mate, what is the long brush you are using for your highlights? I remember seeing scale modelers using incredibly long brushes for certain things, usually picking out rivets with wash and that kind of thing.
Maybe it just looks longer on camera, but that brush looks like something I don't have. I mostly use Raph 8404's, and they have very wide bodies. I got some Artis Opus brushes (I know they are Rosemary and Co for whomever may comment to tell me this, LoL) so have some way finer brushes for doing extreme line work on worn leather and such. My 8404's are my general painting brushes that I use for most things though.
I learned quite early the strength of having a wide body and a rock hard tip. It gets you more used to using the tip for detail work, but also holds a lot more paint. Also with a small brush, if it's overloaded it looses it's point anyway. I only use tiny brushes for the minute details.
I didn't thin the contrast paints at all. Straight from the pot and on to my palette. The trick with contrast paint is to watch out for pooling and apply a thin layer. Make sure not to flood the model with it. It's all about controlling how much paint is on the brush and model.
The brushes I use are in the description, they are Rosemary and Co series 99 red sable. Most of the contrast work was done with a number 2, and detail done with a number 1.
@@MattsHobbyHour Thanks, I'll have to get some of those. been meaning to get from those guys, but the unconventional sizing confused me a bit.
@@MattsHobbyHour Thanks. I found thinning the Skeleton horde worked better for me, as it didn't stain the raised are too much.
I was likely not using a properly controlled amount of paint though.
I did like the softer effect with the 1:1 mix though, and then to come in with some snakebite leather to add some darker bits in shadows, and some nazdreg yellow on some of the fleshier parts (although in your recipe it is the gryph-hound orange, so I'll be trying that.
I am essentially going to be combining what I have learned from the trovarion Gants video and this one, with the base design from Trovarions Black Templar video)
So they will have your carapace colours with turquoise guns. Claws are the same on both schemes.
I'm just not sure to go with the purple or the turquoise tongue yet, will have to see how it goes.
The base design is the one he did with white and turquoise liquid pigments, to look like a frozen planet.
I'm using Trovarions design as jump off point for my own frozen planet bases. They look very different to other snow bases, and so much better IMO. (I have specific tufts and stuff for them, and also have this frost effect paint to use on some surfaces)
The GS world snow is the nicest looking snow FX I've seen, as it really looks like snow that has sat there a while, not fresh powder like all the other stuff is.
I still have some fresh powder snow though, as this can be added, sparsely on surfaces to just add another layer.
On my bigger creatures I'm going to do some ice made from resin with stuff trapped under them, seen some amazing examples of this as well.
I've never done resin before though, so it's an entirely new thing to learn.
I knew I wanted to do this kind of base, so specifically have been wanting a Nid scheme to o well on that base.
I was going to go with more Traditional Kraken, but I think the deeper red and the orange are going to look sick with the white and turquoise base (then also Turquoise as the spot colour on the minis as well)
I'm very excited to get something painted up, will probably knock up a tester this weekend with a Gant.
Is there any way I can show you it when it's done?
PS: sorry for another long reply. It's a subject I'm passionate about though, and it's rare I crack a scheme so early on.
I mean it could go wrong yet, but in my mind I can see it and it works. The colours should really work together.
I am slightly worried about white next to bone, maybe they're be too similar, but then you want some similarity and some contrast, right?
Hopefully the combination of colours will be just right.
@@D00M3R_MAVS sounds like a cool project, and it's great that you are personalizing your color scheme. I'd love to see what you do; if you have an Instagram account you can send me a DM there. Link is on my channel page. Good luck!
@@MattsHobbyHour Thanks. I have an account but I don't really use it right now.
I can upload some pics when I finish something though. I'll sort out the link.
I watched a few of your videos. Could you make a tutorial on brush care? I find that paint will dry really fast on my brushes. The bristles will bend and start splitting. I end up getting minimal coverage, and my tip doesn't hold its shape for nearly as long as I see in all of these painting videos I watch from other creators. I like to use only 3 brushes max on most of my models, and I want to learn what mistakes I don't realize im making. I am seeking your wisdom and would love your insight.
Thanks!
That's a great idea! I'll add brush care to the queue. Thanks for watching!
Could be a few reasons why its drying so fast. If the room is hot, dry, or if a fan is running that might be the cause. Never dip a bone dry brush into paint when you start; always make sure to wet it first and then wipe off the excess on a paper towel, that way the brush is damp before you grab paint with it. Try to never let the paint get more than halfway up the hair. Also, make sure to rinse your brush periodically. Good luck!
@MattsHobbyHour thank you man! A lot of my paint is more than a few years old, so I wonder if that is contributing to the issues. Regardless, I look forward to seeing you cover the subject :)
STERBIEZ?!?! HOLY SHIT
U know it brother
Great video man, loved the explanations on techniques. Your stuff still as pretty as always.
@@ericheideman7512 thanks Eric. I appreciate it
Sorry for the influx of comments mate, but I just want to be sure I get stuff down. Did you dilute the Magos purple at all? I might do these steps in Nazdreg yellow instead though, as I don't have the purple yet.
EDIT: just ordered some Magos purple... Excited to try out your scheme.
I didn't dilute the Magos Purple at all. There is a slight amount that does get diluted on the model after rinsing the brush and feathering the edge. But I didn't add any medium or water to the mix on my palette. It was just straight up paint.
I'd stick with Magos Purple, it's very transparent and great for blending. Nazdreg Yellow is really strong and it will stain and be difficult to blend. Good luck!
@@MattsHobbyHour Thanks. I ordered some tonight. I got the bone colour and the off white from Vallejo as well.
@@MattsHobbyHour when you were feathering the magos purple, it looks like you were pulling towards the purple from the area outside first.
is this correct, or did my eyes read it incorrectly?
I know contrast works differently and you usually have to pull the brush in the direction you want to be darkest/have the pigment collect. I was wondering if this is why you were brushing towards the purple rather than away from it to start with?
I have done some feathering before on horns and stuff for, but with thinned down paint. I am very new to using contrast paints, so need to take in all I can.
I find they are very different to other paints and require a different way of painting.
I usually find if I think the contrast down a bit, I have an easier time with it (also if there is some plastic detail for the pigment to attack to) but if it's a flatter area, I have a much harder time with the paint.
I guess when it comes to these areas, we just have to touch them up with the standard paints, after wards?
They very much seem like an ink/wash combo, where as people used the citadel shade paints as washes, they really were not for that and are better for actually using to add shadow. I think if you thin out the contrast, it behaves more like a wash should (IMO at least)
anyway, hope you see this reply as it's late. I have lots to learn with contrast paint, so hope you do more videos in this style. I'd definitely like to see more Tyranids done in this style, maybe see you tackling one of the older sculpts (as they paint very differently IMO. The newer minis are designed with contrast paint in mind)
If I have issues doing the method on the older, big creatures though, I can easy find a deep red and shade it down with black glaze. I think the colour scheme will be easy enough to replicate with different styles of paints.
That's the dream really. Having a speed method that can be replicated with other paints for different minis in the range.
Also I will get an air brush soon, so this adds a whole other dimension as well. You can lay down a lot of base colours, and then only have to glaze the in-betweens pretty much. (I'm also just learning to glaze though)
Have you tried NMM before? I would like to try this as well, but this comes under glazing as well I think.
@@D00M3R_MAVS sometimes I'll start the feathering from the dry side, sometimes from the wet side. It really shouldn't make too much of a difference, because in the end I'm making so many brush strokes in different directions. In a way it's an intuitive process that's easy to show on film but difficult to explain. I'm varying the pressure I'm using on the brush and the direction of the stroke depending on how the paint flows on an irregular surface. The best advice i can give you is paint a bunch of models. Good luck!
@@MattsHobbyHour Thanks. Yeah I get you. It's just one of those things you have to figure out.
I should probably practice the tech on a sprue or something.
This is great! One thing though. I would suggest speeding up the parts where you aren't talking. We can watch you paint a lot faster than you can paint.
Thanks! That is a good point. I'll try trimming down the videos a bit.
i mean...this is great but you didn't do a zenithal.. if someone watching this doesn't know what a zenithal highlight is and they see what you did here, it would be very misleading.
Thanks for watching! It's a subtle, brighter zenithal. Since I didnt start with black spray, and the grey/wraithbone are close in value, it's not as obvious. But I can assure you it is darker on the underside and lighter on the top. Happy painting!