Nice tip on the magnet position to put it slightly towards the back. It's easy if the area on the body you stick the magnet to is flat otherwise it's pretty tricky. I'll probably use hot glue gun on my next one so if the area is curved I can still put the magnet on.
I couldent agree more. Luckily the DRZ has ready made mounting positions, but it shouldn’t be too hard to carry over the a mini-z. I post another video once I get to it on the Zs
It’s study enough to pick the car up by the shell & the magnets won’t detach, but if you slam a wall chances are the magnets will pop out of alignment.
Hey man sorry for the delay. I had typed up a long response the other day but it looks like I dident hit post 🤦🏻♂️ Anyways, it depends on what your looking for. Most distributors only carry a couple of brands & they don’t always have everything I want in stock so I order from lots of websites. But my main go to’s are RCM8, Chan RC, the Driftaholics Facebook group & SuperG Drift. For mini-z stuff I check those websites & Kenno hobby as well.
Random question, what car do you prefer? the mini z or the drz? I’m not so worried about the drive system. And also, can you put a brushless motor into a ma020?
Hey man, sorry for the delayed response. DRZ V2 hands down, but it’s not a fair comparison since mini-z is AWD & has very limited steering angle. AWD tends to be very high speed for drifting since you carry more speed due to the added grip, & due to the limited steering angle the mini-z does more of a power slide rather then a true drift. The DRZ V2 on the other hand has a ridiculous amount of steering angle so it can turn on a dime, & since it RWD puts down less power then AWD the DRZ can drift at very low speed. My drz can easily drift in a much smaller area then my mini-z, & that makes it far superior imo. Plus the DRZ has much more adjustability & tuning potential so you can really dial it into your driving style.
I really like the idea of mounting bodies with magnets, i first seen it on darkdragonwings channel and always thought it was a very flush way to mount a body. If you haven't heared of the guy you should check him out, he makes insane 1/10 scale rc bodies out of lexan. Btw does anyone else hear static clicking noises in the video?? My mobo soundcard aint that great and i have it with 1% of the video's on youtube. but never with BMR
I have never heard of that channel before, but I don’t follow 1/10th scale. Thanks for the recommendation I’ll have to go check him out! Apologies for the clicking noise... I hear it too, about 3min in it starts but I’m not sure why. I recently got a blue yeti mic to improve the audio quality (previously everything was recorded through my iPhone) but now I’m fighting with that clicking noise. I need to take another look at my setup & possibly run the audio through GarageBand on my laptop? Again apologies, I’m looking into fixing the clicking noise.
@@BMR3 i don't own any 1/10th scale myself either. but i looked into it before i got a mini-z. that guy is so creative!! just inspirational to watch even if you're not getting into 1/10th scale yourself. No reason for apologise, hope you get it sorted soon 👍
Did this to mount the pink hummer from the mni-z overland series to the geko. bit harder there as when rock crawling the body is subject to stresses. such a great mod though
I agree it’s well worth it, especially with the DRZ & GLD style chassis since you can remove the side clips. It’s just one less thing to have hung up wires. I have the BMRX stealth mounting system as well to test out.
@@BMR3 hunting down a source now. for the overland i did epoxy but did some trickery to make sure that it self aligned. tape does seem much better though. i ended up buying a 100 pack of 3m double sided tape as i go through it so quickly
@@BMR3 Put the body magnets on the chassis magnets, then put 5min epoxy on top then drop the body into position on top. the overland makes this a tad bit simpler as i had the magnets sitting on a perspex square aligned to the body clips (which are different for the overland to the normal side ones) but the principle should still apply
@@BlitzWorks Thank you for sharing your method, but I moved the posts have a bit of wobble in them. If I tried your method, I think there would still be a bit of play. I had to mount the magnets as far forward on the body as possible, that way they pull chassis towards the front body clip. Hope that makes sense, it was the only way to prevent slop/wobble between the chassis & body
Pretty much any body will fit, the trick is getting all your electronics tucked away so that the bodies can fit. It really varies from build to build depending on what receiver, esc & gyro you’re using since they all take up critical real estate
Sorry for the delayed response Ivan! There are two ways I got about it. First & easiest is to take a small flat head screw driver & wedge it behind the clip in between the body & simply leaver the clip out, sometimes they pop right off & other times they don't , it just depends on how much glue was used to secure the clip. Be very careful when doing this tho as you can damage the plastic body if you apply to much force. second option is to cut them out, but I only resort to this when there is too much glue & I cannot pry the clip out. I just use a new sharp exacto blade & cut the tabs off the body, again being super careful. Let me know if this helps or you have further questions!
@ivan tay yeah its a real PITA but its sooooooo worth it once you have the magnets installed. I hate having to pull the bodies apart to remove them from the chassis since I always feel like they are going to get damaged since they are kinda brittle. Plus its soooo satisfying to be able to just drop your body on top of the chassis & hear that satisfying click :D Maybe ill make a video about removing the body clips & prepping the body/chassis for magnet install. Just gotta find some time.
@@BMR3 Ahaha, I just love that you remember me and my project 😂 Yeah, will likely try it out, I have A BUNCH of tiny neodymium's from my past Cosplay projects. Kinda worried about the electronics, hopefully I can figure out a good mounting spot with the little space I got. Currently I'm at more stressed out with the wheels, I was attempting to diy them and make curved tires with the already available hotwheels tires but man I messed them up. Currently I'm looking into 3d printing some curved wheels instead
Of course I remember your project, if you can pull it off it would be amazing! I wouldn’t worry about rounded tires, flat tires work just fine. Have you seen this channel? They might have some really insightful tips for you: ruclips.net/video/qHlct6KrmMY/видео.html
@@BMR3 Yes, I've seen it. Some of his videos have the comments turned off for some reason ;w; It's all very interesting but like he does use already available kits I believe, still tho, kind of insightful of the space you have in a Hotwheels body
Nice tip on the magnet position to put it slightly towards the back.
It's easy if the area on the body you stick the magnet to is flat otherwise it's pretty tricky. I'll probably use hot glue gun on my next one so if the area is curved I can still put the magnet on.
I think this is going to become a critical mod for Mini Z, especially for people who want to use the body for a very long time.
I couldent agree more. Luckily the DRZ has ready made mounting positions, but it shouldn’t be too hard to carry over the a mini-z. I post another video once I get to it on the Zs
Nice video (as i said on Facebook) and it's cool to see your DRZ with a body.
Thank you, yes I’m very happy with how it all worked out & im thrilled to have the body finally on this chassis!
@@BMR3 I truly understand you my friend!
Kyosho should start doing this and other companies. Thanks going to do this on my k989
Best upgrade you can do imo, huge quality of life improvement when changing batteries
is it a solid mount? like if you crash does it stay on?
It’s study enough to pick the car up by the shell & the magnets won’t detach, but if you slam a wall chances are the magnets will pop out of alignment.
Hey mate, where'd you find this mounting system, I can't find it anywhere other than SuperG who's out of stock. Thanks!
I got mine from Super G Drift but they are currently out of stock. I saw yesterday that Chan RC had some in stock, you can contact him on Facebook
Hey buddy been asking ya a lot of questions lately my apologies. But where do you order you chassis and parts for the most part
Hey man sorry for the delay. I had typed up a long response the other day but it looks like I dident hit post 🤦🏻♂️
Anyways, it depends on what your looking for. Most distributors only carry a couple of brands & they don’t always have everything I want in stock so I order from lots of websites.
But my main go to’s are RCM8, Chan RC, the Driftaholics Facebook group & SuperG Drift. For mini-z stuff I check those websites & Kenno hobby as well.
@@BMR3 no worries I appreciate the help
@@xJesseJames33x anytime brother! Don’t hesitate to ask questions, I’m happy to help 😸🍻
Random question, what car do you prefer? the mini z or the drz? I’m not so worried about the drive system. And also, can you put a brushless motor into a ma020?
Hey man, sorry for the delayed response.
DRZ V2 hands down, but it’s not a fair comparison since mini-z is AWD & has very limited steering angle. AWD tends to be very high speed for drifting since you carry more speed due to the added grip, & due to the limited steering angle the mini-z does more of a power slide rather then a true drift.
The DRZ V2 on the other hand has a ridiculous amount of steering angle so it can turn on a dime, & since it RWD puts down less power then AWD the DRZ can drift at very low speed. My drz can easily drift in a much smaller area then my mini-z, & that makes it far superior imo. Plus the DRZ has much more adjustability & tuning potential so you can really dial it into your driving style.
I really like the idea of mounting bodies with magnets, i first seen it on darkdragonwings channel and always thought it was a very flush way to mount a body.
If you haven't heared of the guy you should check him out, he makes insane 1/10 scale rc bodies out of lexan.
Btw does anyone else hear static clicking noises in the video?? My mobo soundcard aint that great and i have it with 1% of the video's on youtube. but never with BMR
I have never heard of that channel before, but I don’t follow 1/10th scale. Thanks for the recommendation I’ll have to go check him out!
Apologies for the clicking noise... I hear it too, about 3min in it starts but I’m not sure why. I recently got a blue yeti mic to improve the audio quality (previously everything was recorded through my iPhone) but now I’m fighting with that clicking noise.
I need to take another look at my setup & possibly run the audio through GarageBand on my laptop? Again apologies, I’m looking into fixing the clicking noise.
@@BMR3 i don't own any 1/10th scale myself either. but i looked into it before i got a mini-z. that guy is so creative!! just inspirational to watch even if you're not getting into 1/10th scale yourself.
No reason for apologise, hope you get it sorted soon 👍
Did this to mount the pink hummer from the mni-z overland series to the geko. bit harder there as when rock crawling the body is subject to stresses. such a great mod though
I agree it’s well worth it, especially with the DRZ & GLD style chassis since you can remove the side clips. It’s just one less thing to have hung up wires.
I have the BMRX stealth mounting system as well to test out.
@@BMR3 hunting down a source now. for the overland i did epoxy but did some trickery to make sure that it self aligned. tape does seem much better though. i ended up buying a 100 pack of 3m double sided tape as i go through it so quickly
@@BlitzWorks tell me your secrets wizard! How did you manage to make it self align? I spent so much time trying to get the body to sit perfectly
@@BMR3 Put the body magnets on the chassis magnets, then put 5min epoxy on top then drop the body into position on top. the overland makes this a tad bit simpler as i had the magnets sitting on a perspex square aligned to the body clips (which are different for the overland to the normal side ones) but the principle should still apply
@@BlitzWorks Thank you for sharing your method, but I moved the posts have a bit of wobble in them. If I tried your method, I think there would still be a bit of play. I had to mount the magnets as far forward on the body as possible, that way they pull chassis towards the front body clip. Hope that makes sense, it was the only way to prevent slop/wobble between the chassis & body
Hey I want to buy a drz2 but I'm not sure what bodys will fit can u lead me in the right way
Pretty much any body will fit, the trick is getting all your electronics tucked away so that the bodies can fit. It really varies from build to build depending on what receiver, esc & gyro you’re using since they all take up critical real estate
So 94mm to 98mm bodys fit do 90mm ?
Yep 90mm will fit if you have the HV servo & special servo mounts
Hi could you please show me the link for Magnetic mounting system you buy from?
here you go my friend but sadly its out of stock :(
supergdrift.com/store/product/hgd1-magnet-stealth-mount-system-1-27-kit/
How can the white body clip at the side of autoscale be removed?
Sorry for the delayed response Ivan! There are two ways I got about it. First & easiest is to take a small flat head screw driver & wedge it behind the clip in between the body & simply leaver the clip out, sometimes they pop right off & other times they don't , it just depends on how much glue was used to secure the clip. Be very careful when doing this tho as you can damage the plastic body if you apply to much force.
second option is to cut them out, but I only resort to this when there is too much glue & I cannot pry the clip out. I just use a new sharp exacto blade & cut the tabs off the body, again being super careful.
Let me know if this helps or you have further questions!
@@BMR3 Thanks for the tips! I have not go to magnet mount as I find it difficult to remove the white clip but might try it some day :)
@ivan tay yeah its a real PITA but its sooooooo worth it once you have the magnets installed. I hate having to pull the bodies apart to remove them from the chassis since I always feel like they are going to get damaged since they are kinda brittle. Plus its soooo satisfying to be able to just drop your body on top of the chassis & hear that satisfying click :D
Maybe ill make a video about removing the body clips & prepping the body/chassis for magnet install. Just gotta find some time.
@@BMR3 that will make a great video! Will look out for that if you do make 1 ;)
Very interesting video, thanks for the tips ouo
I think magnets would be the only way to go for your project
@@BMR3 Ahaha, I just love that you remember me and my project 😂
Yeah, will likely try it out, I have A BUNCH of tiny neodymium's from my past Cosplay projects. Kinda worried about the electronics, hopefully I can figure out a good mounting spot with the little space I got. Currently I'm at more stressed out with the wheels, I was attempting to diy them and make curved tires with the already available hotwheels tires but man I messed them up. Currently I'm looking into 3d printing some curved wheels instead
Of course I remember your project, if you can pull it off it would be amazing! I wouldn’t worry about rounded tires, flat tires work just fine.
Have you seen this channel? They might have some really insightful tips for you: ruclips.net/video/qHlct6KrmMY/видео.html
@@BMR3 Yes, I've seen it. Some of his videos have the comments turned off for some reason ;w;
It's all very interesting but like he does use already available kits I believe, still tho, kind of insightful of the space you have in a Hotwheels body
Is this the EVO version with a custom chassis!
No this is the Atomic DRZ V2, but I do have plans to use magnets on the EVO as well. I’ll post another video once I have that project sorted ;)