Nice video…Acetone and xylene both work well to remove any oils grease etc..If you’re not sure if there is any plating left on after preparing, leave in citric acid or white vinegar for a few hours to dissolve it., then clean in water then acetone again before putting in the blacking solution.
You are the man! We manufacture curb inlet trash guards and use carriage bolts for their installation. The material of the guards is black HDPE. Once installed, the 18 carriage bolts of each guard stand out like a sore thumb, it's horrible. I was looking into how to paint them black because for my next project, I'm going to use 8500 carriage bolts. I'm going to start learning how to do this in bulk right away. Thank you for your advice.
After rinsing, I'd use a little denatured alcohol to displace the remaining water and instead of using WD40, I'd apply some linseed oil that is first diluted with mineral spirits 1:1. That will leave a thin coating that will dry in a few days that would be less likely to wash off. In the end you would just be replacing the mineral oil in the WD40 with the linseed oil that reacts with the air to leave a slow drying coating. Also when done with your restoration, you can touch up the wrenched on hardware by brushing on a little of the diluted Linseed oil and wiping off the excess periodically. Just be careful to let any rags with linseed oil air dry before disposing of them as they can pose a fire hazard. I keep a small jar of the mix and an acid brush handy in the shop.
thanks mate, forever been trying to find that edge, my edge for my projects. i think your name is Ed and im pleased to meet you mate. here in Aus we have a hardware store Bunnings to supply us, so easy to find. i think i should follow you, absorb some of your experience. keep them coming and stay well.
If you will give those shinney bolts a bath in muriatic acid until they quit bobbling. Give them a quick bath in tap water. Then do your black oxide process you won't have the spotty results. They will be really nice dark black.
Black oxide treatment does provide a pleasing, satin color to hardware but unfortunately is quite weak at resisting rust and discoloration. It is particularly unsuitable for cosmetic purposes in a hot environment like an engine compartment. The oil applied at the end of the treatment process will shortly begin to turn brown in that hot environment. This will "look" like rust even before the actual corrosion sets in. If the oil treatment is omitted, rust will form in short order so you get the discoloration either way. Black oxide forms a surface barrier that is only about 1/100,000 of an inch thick, hence its weakness both to corrosion and abrasion. Black oxide coloring is more durable/stable on stainless steel fasteners, but of course those would provide rust protection anyway with no treatment at all.
Great tip, thanks buddy. I’ll have to go look at my gun bluing and see if it’s black oxide. Winter up here in the cariboo and it’s project time on the 87 t-top. Youll have to hit me up for a cruise down in k-town
So... 2 things. Does it affect the threads size at all. I was looking to do this with very small screws like m3. And also do you have to keep the wd40 on there? Or is it just spray it on to neutralize then wipe it off?
I'm wondering if the "splotchy" areas on the one bolt was due to differing surface textures...if you notice the pattern on the bolt head, it looks like maybe the ares where a wrench would put pressure during tightening on it were the lighter areas. Just a guess of course...but it might be worth the time to experiment a little, maybe try lightly sanding or wire brushing the bolt head and re-treat....
most bolts on undercarriage stuff is zinc, black oxide, or sometimes cadnium plated. If it has zinc or cadnium on it then that is the splotchy area. I suspect you could drop the bolts in a mild solution of muriatic acid or something similar and it would help strip the other platings off but you want to have a process that strips them, degreases them, and cleans them pretty quickly so you can get them in the black oxide solution before any rust sets in.
Where'd you get that container that has the hinges on it? Great video BTW. I just did a batch today and one question I have is if I sandblast, do I have to do the pre-clean with solvent? I did and it and it flash rusted super quick. Maybe I should've had all my solutions all premixed.
Can we use this to coat the insides of a motorcycle gas tank? Say after completlely removing the rust etc... I have heard that all the existing tank liner coatings eventually do come off. So this sounds like a great solution, if it works.
Hi there. I have never tried that but at first glance, I would be sceptical of ones success... I cannot remember the product but I have a friend that fixes high end Harleys and uses a product for coating tanks that he swears by!
@@KASLCustoms Interesting. Can you get the name of the product from your friend? And, regarding the black oxide coating for the gas tank, wouldn’t it resist any rust going forward as it seems to be embedded in the metal?
yes I will. He is on holidays right now but I will try and remember to ask him once he is back for you. Yes, you do make a good point however I do not think that that is what the product was intended for. Long story short, I don't think I would trust/try it...
Here's a quick tip if you are in a hurry and want to make your bolts black. This way is a tad more dangerous since it involves fire and flammable material. First you want to get all the rust off of your fasteners or whatever you're trying to blacken. Once that's done you can use a propane torch and you heat the bolt or other part up. You don't need to heat them up to any temperature of melting steel. It's more or less trial and error to make sure your part is hot enough. Then you would need a container and I cannot stress this part enough. It has to be made out of metal or glass which I don't particularly like to use. Once you got the appropriate container now you put motor oil in there. Most people including myself use old oil from previous oil changes. You can use new oil but like I said the majority use recycled oil. Now this is the real dangerous part of this. Don't drop your parts into the tub of oil. You do that you're in for a nice surprise. You put the heated parts into the oil and immediately the oil does start to react but if you go slow and don't throw your parts into your oil bath you should be fine. Basically you just leave them in there for a really undetermined time. Sometimes it takes a couple minutes sometimes 30 40 seconds. I think that the heat and temperature dictates on how fast or how slow it works. The reason you cannot use plastic is when the bolt or parts goes into the oil the oil gets so hot that it flashes and you will have a little bit of flames on top of the oil. You will see a lot of RUclips videos where people did not listen and used a plastic container. It's not pretty to watch. I actually like the way it was done in this video. I'm getting ready for a big over the winter project and I'm going to use the message in this video. I hope this helps someone out who might just need a few bolts or parts blackened and do not want to spend a lot of money to do this. The most expensive part of this treatment that I talked about is it's a propane or acetylene. And then oil and if you have some old oil around then that doesn't cost you any thing either. As far as what to put the oil in you can go to any grocery store Walmart or dollar stores and you can pick up throw away aluminum cooking pans they come in all different sizes and normally they are a five pack. You could also use the tin that some people to put cookies in.
So, this is basically quenching. It does modify the hardness of your piece and it could have an unwanted distortion. Try it carefully if the thread goes fine. Don't push it in case it has been deformed you might strip the thread.
I have watched a number of videos on how to rust proof my hardware, I have spent hours. This seems too easy, have you tested it to see if they are rust proof? Does the wd40 act as a sealer? I see they say to seal the part when its done and they sell a sealer.
Lol - your in good company my friend. I too have lost years on my life prettying up bolts! Yes it does work and the WD is my way of not paying for their sealer. It works for me 👍
May have already been said somewhere in the comments, but putting the bolts in vinegar (white or apple cider) will remove the zinc coating and leave bare metal.
Interesting. Currently working on a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse and the slight rust on the engine bay hardware is driving me nuts…thought about priming, painting and clearing each one but I may try this. Thanks!
I'm restoring a gun and need to make my screws dark. I tried using the gun blueing but it didn't take. I think every screw you buy these days have zinc in them
Not much real information. What were the bolts made of? What where they originally finished with? The WD40 makes them look great for a while, but it won't last.
Black oxide is chemically similar to red oxide (rust) but is more stable and resistant to corrosion. It can be applied to ferrous metals, stainless steel, copper, and other metals. You will have to take the material down to bare metal as it will react differently on various finishes or may not apply giving inconsistent results. Automotive bolts are typically made from carbon steel. WD40 provides a thin layer of protection and corrosion resistance . It will eventually wear off and need to be reapplied. Other oils can be used as well. Black oxide is not a perfect coating. In fact, it is easily scratched and will eventually wear off when exposed to the elements. It is, however, better than nothing and is aesthetically appealing. It’s also very easy to apply.
@@cannoncolossus2449 I've found black oxide to be practically useless at providing corrosion resistance on mild steel. A few months into winter, and rust is beginning to show.
As a fellow black hardware lover, thank you thank you thank you!!! Wow, words arent working for me now, seriously thank you!
👊👊👊
This video will literally save my life when it comes to doing the engine part of my fox project
👍
Nice video…Acetone and xylene both work well to remove any oils grease etc..If you’re not sure if there is any plating left on after preparing, leave in citric acid or white vinegar for a few hours to dissolve it., then clean in water then acetone again before putting in the blacking solution.
I will try that. Thank you
You are the man! We manufacture curb inlet trash guards and use carriage bolts for their installation. The material of the guards is black HDPE. Once installed, the 18 carriage bolts of each guard stand out like a sore thumb, it's horrible. I was looking into how to paint them black because for my next project, I'm going to use 8500 carriage bolts. I'm going to start learning how to do this in bulk right away. Thank you for your advice.
Right on!
After rinsing, I'd use a little denatured alcohol to displace the remaining water and instead of using WD40, I'd apply some linseed oil that is first diluted with mineral spirits 1:1. That will leave a thin coating that will dry in a few days that would be less likely to wash off. In the end you would just be replacing the mineral oil in the WD40 with the linseed oil that reacts with the air to leave a slow drying coating. Also when done with your restoration, you can touch up the wrenched on hardware by brushing on a little of the diluted Linseed oil and wiping off the excess periodically. Just be careful to let any rags with linseed oil air dry before disposing of them as they can pose a fire hazard. I keep a small jar of the mix and an acid brush handy in the shop.
Very good info! Thanks so much for sharing. I will definitely try it out 👍
Your not alone... been there done that....
Wish I knew about this stuff when I rebuilt my goat...
Hahahaha the struggle is real! 😉.
This guy knows my hardship
Hi , thank you for this tip. Omg it’s amazing , just finished doing a lot of bolts before putting the motor back together.
Right on!!! They turn out nice 👌
I'm going to try this on some knife blades it should work great 👍 thanks
Right on! That would be awesome!
thanks mate, forever been trying to find that edge, my edge for my projects. i think your name is Ed and im pleased to meet you mate. here in Aus we have a hardware store Bunnings to supply us, so easy to find. i think i should follow you, absorb some of your experience. keep them coming and stay well.
You’re very welcome my friend! All the best - stay in touch!
If you will give those shinney bolts a bath in muriatic acid until they quit bobbling. Give them a quick bath in tap water. Then do your black oxide process you won't have the spotty results. They will be really nice dark black.
Ok thank you for the advice
Your beard is immaculate. Cheers broham 🍻
Hahaha thank you 🍻
I wonder if this would work on nickle plated carriage bolts.
It won't. You will need to get the nickle off the bolts first
Thank you for this.
Using your link to purchase.
No problem!
Black oxide treatment does provide a pleasing, satin color to hardware but unfortunately is quite weak at resisting rust and discoloration. It is particularly unsuitable for cosmetic purposes in a hot environment like an engine compartment. The oil applied at the end of the treatment process will shortly begin to turn brown in that hot environment. This will "look" like rust even before the actual corrosion sets in. If the oil treatment is omitted, rust will form in short order so you get the discoloration either way. Black oxide forms a surface barrier that is only about 1/100,000 of an inch thick, hence its weakness both to corrosion and abrasion. Black oxide coloring is more durable/stable on stainless steel fasteners, but of course those would provide rust protection anyway with no treatment at all.
This is badass. Great tip.
You’re welcome 🙌
Great tip, thanks buddy. I’ll have to go look at my gun bluing and see if it’s black oxide. Winter up here in the cariboo and it’s project time on the 87 t-top. Youll have to hit me up for a cruise down in k-town
Thx pal! It’s pretty cool stuff for sure!!
Yes absolutely - anytime 🦊👍
Before there was OCD there were skilled trade and craftsmen
Does the coating scratch come off after you install the screw and show marks from the tool used to install it?
no sir
So... 2 things. Does it affect the threads size at all. I was looking to do this with very small screws like m3. And also do you have to keep the wd40 on there? Or is it just spray it on to neutralize then wipe it off?
Hi there! It doesn’t change the thread size at all. And the WD is just to neutralize, I wipe it off right away 👍
Excellent 😊
I'm wondering if the "splotchy" areas on the one bolt was due to differing surface textures...if you notice the pattern on the bolt head, it looks like maybe the ares where a wrench would put pressure during tightening on it were the lighter areas. Just a guess of course...but it might be worth the time to experiment a little, maybe try lightly sanding or wire brushing the bolt head and re-treat....
Yessir - very good point! It is a bit of a “trial and error” type process but for the time it takes to try, it sure beats painting 😉👍
most bolts on undercarriage stuff is zinc, black oxide, or sometimes cadnium plated. If it has zinc or cadnium on it then that is the splotchy area. I suspect you could drop the bolts in a mild solution of muriatic acid or something similar and it would help strip the other platings off but you want to have a process that strips them, degreases them, and cleans them pretty quickly so you can get them in the black oxide solution before any rust sets in.
Yes very good point!
Fantastic, thanks brother!!
My pleasure!
Where'd you get that container that has the hinges on it? Great video BTW. I just did a batch today and one question I have is if I sandblast, do I have to do the pre-clean with solvent? I did and it and it flash rusted super quick. Maybe I should've had all my solutions all premixed.
I, too, am rather picky: @ 2:56 that is NOT a carriage bolt. Appears to be a hex bolt with a captive flat washer.
That last bolt has a zinc coating.
Great video!
Thank you 🙏
how much did that bottle cost you? do you still have the link for where you got yours?
are these bolts are aluminium or steel?
Damn wish I would have found this out before finishing my car lol this is definitely getting done thought !!
Hahahaha - it’s a game changer 👍
Any idea if it would make Crome bolts black
No it will not
Can we use this to coat the insides of a motorcycle gas tank? Say after completlely removing the rust etc... I have heard that all the existing tank liner coatings eventually do come off. So this sounds like a great solution, if it works.
Hi there. I have never tried that but at first glance, I would be sceptical of ones success... I cannot remember the product but I have a friend that fixes high end Harleys and uses a product for coating tanks that he swears by!
@@KASLCustoms Interesting. Can you get the name of the product from your friend? And, regarding the black oxide coating for the gas tank, wouldn’t it resist any rust going forward as it seems to be embedded in the metal?
yes I will. He is on holidays right now but I will try and remember to ask him once he is back for you. Yes, you do make a good point however I do not think that that is what the product was intended for. Long story short, I don't think I would trust/try it...
@@KASLCustoms Thank You!
@@KASLCustoms *reminder*
Great video! Can this work on stainless steel?
Thank you! I have not tried it on stainless yet
Here's a quick tip if you are in a hurry and want to make your bolts black. This way is a tad more dangerous since it involves fire and flammable material.
First you want to get all the rust off of your fasteners or whatever you're trying to blacken. Once that's done you can use a propane torch and you heat the bolt or other part up. You don't need to heat them up to any temperature of melting steel. It's more or less trial and error to make sure your part is hot enough.
Then you would need a container and I cannot stress this part enough. It has to be made out of metal or glass which I don't particularly like to use. Once you got the appropriate container now you put motor oil in there. Most people including myself use old oil from previous oil changes. You can use new oil but like I said the majority use recycled oil.
Now this is the real dangerous part of this. Don't drop your parts into the tub of oil. You do that you're in for a nice surprise. You put the heated parts into the oil and immediately the oil does start to react but if you go slow and don't throw your parts into your oil bath you should be fine. Basically you just leave them in there for a really undetermined time. Sometimes it takes a couple minutes sometimes 30 40 seconds. I think that the heat and temperature dictates on how fast or how slow it works. The reason you cannot use plastic is when the bolt or parts goes into the oil the oil gets so hot that it flashes and you will have a little bit of flames on top of the oil. You will see a lot of RUclips videos where people did not listen and used a plastic container. It's not pretty to watch.
I actually like the way it was done in this video. I'm getting ready for a big over the winter project and I'm going to use the message in this video.
I hope this helps someone out who might just need a few bolts or parts blackened and do not want to spend a lot of money to do this. The most expensive part of this treatment that I talked about is it's a propane or acetylene. And then oil and if you have some old oil around then that doesn't cost you any thing either. As far as what to put the oil in you can go to any grocery store Walmart or dollar stores and you can pick up throw away aluminum cooking pans they come in all different sizes and normally they are a five pack. You could also use the tin that some people to put cookies in.
Right on! Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge my friend!!
What about heat treated parts ? Will it work with lower temperature of heating the part? Lower ..let's say 80C to 120C ?
Yes I believe so
So, this is basically quenching. It does modify the hardness of your piece and it could have an unwanted distortion. Try it carefully if the thread goes fine. Don't push it in case it has been deformed you might strip the thread.
does it work with stainless steel ?
No it does not
Will this work on chromed nuts/bolts?
No I don’t believe so. They need to be raw/untreated steel
You can't do the same with Oil and heat up the bolt?
What happens if you don’t dilute? Super black?
Some Parts are dark gray/Black with a slight green tint. Any idea how to do that?
I’m not sure what you mean? After you treat them?
@@KASLCustoms original GM smog tubes were plated a dark grey/Black that had a sight green reflective tint
Oh I see what you mean. Yes 👍
Does it work will alloy bolts aswell
I’m not 100% sure on that - sorry
Do the parts have to be oiled after the process?
I spray them with WD40 as it is supposed to Neutralize them
I have watched a number of videos on how to rust proof my hardware, I have spent hours. This seems too easy, have you tested it to see if they are rust proof? Does the wd40 act as a sealer? I see they say to seal the part when its done and they sell a sealer.
Lol - your in good company my friend. I too have lost years on my life prettying up bolts! Yes it does work and the WD is my way of not paying for their sealer. It works for me 👍
Do you know if it works for titanium bolts?
Sorry my friend, I have not tried it on Ti
May have already been said somewhere in the comments, but putting the bolts in vinegar (white or apple cider) will remove the zinc coating and leave bare metal.
I didn’t know that. Thanks for sharing!
what would happen if you kept them in there for hours or days ? Why WD40 at end ?
I’m not sure? The WD neutralizes it
This stuff is cool!
Lol - I know right! It’s a game changer
Interesting. Currently working on a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse and the slight rust on the engine bay hardware is driving me nuts…thought about priming, painting and clearing each one but I may try this. Thanks!
Lol - been there too many time my friend! 🤣. Hence the reason I found this stuff 👍
Will this work on chrome? Like lug nuts?
I don’t believe so. It needs to be bare metal
How much does the stuff cost
I can’t remember now. It’s not outrageous though
I'm restoring a gun and need to make my screws dark. I tried using the gun blueing but it didn't take. I think every screw you buy these days have zinc in them
Not all of them but a lot of them do for sure
Can u plz send me the formula of black oxide.
I don’t make it, I buy it
Does this work with stainless
No it doesn’t sadly…
Gud pm sir what name at chemical liquid?? From philipines mabuhay ka.
Thank you. It’s called black iron oxide
How do you dispose of the chemical? Take it anywhere or do anything Special with it?
I keep it in a mason jar and just reuse it 👍
What’s the math again? How much distilled water? And how much concentrate?
8-1
Im sorry, what does 8-1 mean? Like 8 cups, and 1 cup?
Not much real information. What were the bolts made of? What where they originally finished with? The WD40 makes them look great for a while, but it won't last.
Sorry I’m not sure what the bolts are made of, I assume mild steel.The WD40 is nothing more then a neutralizing agent.
Black oxide is chemically similar to red oxide (rust) but is more stable and resistant to corrosion. It can be applied to ferrous metals, stainless steel, copper, and other metals. You will have to take the material down to bare metal as it will react differently on various finishes or may not apply giving inconsistent results. Automotive bolts are typically made from carbon steel.
WD40 provides a thin layer of protection and corrosion resistance . It will eventually wear off and need to be reapplied. Other oils can be used as well.
Black oxide is not a perfect coating. In fact, it is easily scratched and will eventually wear off when exposed to the elements. It is, however, better than nothing and is aesthetically appealing. It’s also very easy to apply.
@@cannoncolossus2449 I've found black oxide to be practically useless at providing corrosion resistance on mild steel. A few months into winter, and rust is beginning to show.
The blacking works fast. The only problem is the hours spent cleaning. LOL
lol yup. A wire wheel or blasting cabinet helps 😉👍
What a crock
Black oxide prevents rust? That’s a load of BS.
This video will be so much better if he would shut up and get to the point