Thank you for the information that made my day I’m doin a ls swap and my doner motor looked really oily and I was gonna put rings in it but it ran fine and had great compression and I found this video wow that’s what it is it saved me from tearing it apart
Family Mann if you can, it might be a good idea to replace the valve seals, they seem to get hard/loose with higher mileage. On this engine at 300k the guide seals were the only thing I found really needing replacement. Good luck on your project! 👍
This is a great post and you did a great job with it. Funny thing is not 2 hrs ago I was changing my tensioner pully and noticed oil and dirt just caked under the throttle body and top of plentuim.so i spent a couple hrs. cleaning it all up removing the soaked sponge spacer I'm talking dripping soaked all along trying to figure out where it could be coming from. oil filler tube being one, junk, junk, junk delete it! i have a point bear with me. i know this has just become a major issue#1 because i had the front of the motor apart to replace oil pick up, oil pump went ahead and did everything while i was there timing gears, chain water pump oil pan gasket and so on maybe 8 months ago so i know it was not that way or put back together with a mess like that so close. Since then, began doing a lot of highway driving and developed one hell of an oil leak. I followed it to the top, rear of block. Changed oil pressure sensor with 0 results. I've been leaving oil stains everywhere I go the size of 4" radius, crazy oil consumption and my exhaust crossover covered with baked on oil and lets just say everything to the rear axle is very well lubricated. I'm going out of my mind because my ole 2005 escalade is very clean top and bottom. This just solved it for me without spending more time chasing what I found today. Thank you so much. This is a very comen issue with the oil showing up around oil filter, pan etc. area leading to people to throwing gaskets and seals and sensors out of desperation chasing the source. I will be sharing this to many having the same issue so make no mistake you are helping and making a huge impact. Thanks again for sharing. I have the LQ9 6.0(}, V8, MFI, Iron block, High output 345 hp in a 2005 escalade with 250 k miles. these engines are amazing and while i had the pan dropped there was no sludge, no grit, metal nothing but a clean but varnished oil pan. Oil changes work people! my brother in-law who has the highest GM certification you can get and stays up to date with 30 + years' experience said there is little to no wear on crank bearings or crank and was blown away by same find with the cam. Again, taken care of these LS motors are great. do they have some issues? yes sir they do but nothing to cry about for what they deliver. sorry for the story book people but there you go. This man just shared knowledge to an easy fix to a very illusive oil consumption issue.
I bet the intake manifold is full of oil. Once you create a path where any oil from the PCV valve has to beat gravity to get out and if possible use a separator to keep any oil from getting to the intake you should be good. They sell updated valve covers as well with better baffling to help. Thanks! JD
Rather than an inline filter, I would recommend an oil catch can with a drain. I installed one on my LS1, in addition to the LS6 valley cover with built in PCV valve and haven't gotten a single drop of oil in my intake since. My car use to drink oil like crazy before this too!
TheGuitarGuy09 I used the fuel filter between the valve cover and throttle body for two reasons. I already had the filter and it was super easy. I also built an oil separator catch can for the PCV hose. So far I haven't seen any oil in the small filter and I haven't tried draining the catch can yet. My goal was the same, stop oil consumption before it started. See my videos to see the catch can I built out of a Fram canister fuel filter housing and spare parts. Thanks for the feedback! Also check out my video on adding drain back holes to the oil ring lands to avoid oil consumption. JD
+TheGuitarGuy09 - Yea a Can would be better and I agreed 100%. I installed 2 Cans recently... I thought I was installing an Oil Catch Can. Come to find out, I install Moisture / Coolant Catch Can instead, LOL. 1 Car, get about 1 Ounce of Moisture every 100 Miles. The other get 1 Ounce every 400 Miles. I know it's a lot and I didn't expect that, but I am glad I install the Cans :).
@@HeadFlowInc so at this point do you think nothing is needed on that breather on the passenger side? I have a 06 Yukon I've owned since new. She has 130K miles. I've never had an oil consumption problem and I've yet to have to pull the intake. It will use like 1/2 quart after 4,000 miles.
Im working on a 2010 5.3L 130k miles, and found at least 1/4 cup of oil pooled in the intake manifold. The plugs are fouling black in at least half the cylinders, It has the original style valve covers (not the updated valve covers). To get that much oil in the intake requires a great deal of crankcase pressure and air volume, combined with the flooding of oil into the valve covers PCV system. I did not do a leak down test but went straight for engine removal and piston inspection for evidence of blow-by. My hunch was right. Every piston had massive carbon build up on the pistons and the oil rings were loaded with carbon. The cylinders are smooth and still within specs. I am in the process of cleaning the pistons and replacing the rings. I also washed and blew out the internal valve cover's PCV filters with cleaners solvent along with washing out the intake manifold. Once I assemble the engine with new rings, I expect the problem to be fixed for now. After all, the engine ran fine for 130k miles as it was and I believe it should do another 130k miles after this.
Jeff Whisenand I have a video/s discussing how improper oil drain back holes in the Ringlands is the root cause of the “coaking” of oil. Oil gets trapped in the oil control Ringland and basically gets cooked/reduced to a sludge then hardens. If you look at the LS pistons they do not have holes in the back of the oil control Ringland, instead they have two slots each side partially covered by the bottom support ring etc. greatly reducing if not blocking oil drain back. In my videos I discuss and show how to add drain holes to the pistons to drain the oil more efficiently. You are 100% correct in your findings! Imho Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it! I’ll see if I can link those videos! 👍👍👍 ruclips.net/video/YviqyNByn0g/видео.html ruclips.net/video/bbq24Ufsqhw/видео.html
You need to fit a catch can from your valley plenum to the intake manifold. Got about 50ml every two or so weeks in the catch can. I had a fuel filter fit like you have. Found no oil in there it only discolored the clear plastic filter from the oil vapour in the valve cover.
if you drill extra drain holes in the baffle and enlarge the one by the pvc you don't need a bunch of aftermarket parts or a so called up dated valve cover
Ive done this alot with pevious gen 3s ive built but i had one engine i built i had to up datee the valve cover. The cover just had to much grime and 400,000 miles on it. Also it was causing valve rattle or detonation because the oil was getting in the air fuel mixture causing lower octane.
I just had to pull mine to free a stuck AFM/DOD lifter. Close to a quart came out. Also had slickness all over the inside of my K&N intake pipe. That driver side PCV is the culprit for the manifold. The passenger side PCV for the intake pipe. I took the time to add an Elite Engineering catch can and clean-side separator. The clean-side separator blocks off the passenger side in favor of an oil cap replacement. That was about 1000 miles ago. Lots of oil in the catch can. I even did the updated driver side valve cover.
I was hoping the newer valve cover would help more. One trick is to make sure the hoses from the separator hoses have a 45*-90* angle from the valve cover so any oil has to overcome gravity to make it to the catch can. We’re having good luck not running a PCV valve instead running a true dual open air vented catch can setup installed as I described. JD ruclips.net/video/RGiTBBOgApE/видео.html
@@HeadFlowInc it seems to be more vaporized oil that condenses instead of full liquid. I suspect it is greatly reduced and then the catch can contains it. Will likely pull intake in 10K to see.
The oil catch can worked great but I didn’t drain it or check it often enough! Also I found out you want the hose from the PCV valve to run straight up from the valve if possible or a bare minimum of 45* up so the oil has to overcome gravity to ever have a chance to get to the catch can. I sure wish I had checked my catch can! JD
I just installed a homemade catch can on my 06 2,400mi L33 and I have noticed roughly a cup of oil in it with less than 100 miles since installed.. after presenting my findings to the local forums, they blamed blowby from my rings not being properly gapped.. well after further investigation, I discovered that my engine has an extreme amount of intake vacuum.. common sense is now telling me that im not blowing oil via blowby, but instead, im actually sucking oil out of the valve cover. My driver side valve cover isn't the PCV style but the full length baffle instead. With the lack of draining properties, my engine is acting like a vacuum cleaner in my valve cover lol. Im probably just going to remove that baffle and see what it does. If that dont work, ill just change valve covers.
100% sucking oil through the PCV valve has been proven and acknowledged by GM. Things that help include the updated v2 valve cover, running the hose to the PCV straight up in a way oil has to overcome gravity to make it to the intake or catch can. Also you can move the PCV to the valley by using an F-body valley cover. You are 100% on the right track! JD
Thats the crankcase air intake. It does not suck air from your valve cover. The port for that hose is on the airfilter side of the throttle plate of the TB so its not vacuum. A filter wouldnt hurt anything really but you should switch the filter flow direction. The pvc exit is on the drivers side. The exit is vented into the intake behind the TB. It would be more beneficial to install your filter to the drivers side hose.
@@teezyhernandez9345 the ls6 valley cover...it has the pcv system built in and eliminates all the hoses and fittings of the LS1...one hose...from valley cover fitting to throttle body fitting, about 4 inches, one of the best mods for an LS1
Pretty sure that is not a "vacuum" line but a source of filtered air to be drawn from the air horn into the crankcase. Air and contaminants are drawn out through the PCV hose on the opposite valve cover, but the pass side hose is needed to supply fresh air, just as in PCV systems since their introduction. This is not to say that excessive blow by in the crankcase will not sometimes back flow through the breather tube, but it would be abnormal. Newer versions (Gen 4) draw clean air in from the intake tube before the throttle body but the effect is the same. I have considered replacing my truck oil filler cap with a filter element type cap which would supply ample fresh air and I think would deal with occasional excess blow by better than the small breather tube. If I thought it would clear the firewall, I would use a pass side valve cover on the drivers side and use the tall oil filler tube as an oil separator to draw PCV gases out of.... but I think it would hit the firewall. The oil in my trucks seems to get pretty nasty. I think two major factors are an insufficient PCV system and the LONG oil change intervals shown by the computer. I usually change oil around the 50% oil life reading but when I recently let it play out longer, I had the dreaded oil pressure drop (from 40 to 20psi). An oil change instantly brought it back to normal. My truck has about 100,000 miles on it and from now on, it will get more frequent oil changes.
Anything you can do to reduce the amount of oil being transferred from the PCV valve into the top of the intake the better. Some people use a longer hose and add a loop between the vacuum source and the PCV. The Gen 4 are supposed to have a redesigned baffle to help with the oil splash being sucked up through the PCV system. Now I’ve gone Turbo I run open -10 lines from each valve cover to an open element catch can. The odd part is I’ve never collected anything in the catch can. JD
I believe that hose on the passenger side is where the clean filtered air is drawn in as the PVC valve is pulling vacuum. You will have some oil in your little filter do too pulsations. The real issue is the defective valve cover on driver side.
Yeah, I never had a drop of oil in the passengers side filter but couldn’t stop oil from being pulled through the PCV setup. I’ve heard you can add a “loop” in the hose, use a 180°/straight PCV valve, making sure the vacuum hose runs vertical from the valve cover. All these tips are to use gravity to stop oil from making it to the intake manifold. Once I went Turbo I switched to a Vented catch can plumbed from each valve cover and so far haven’t found any oil in the can. Win win! Thanks for watching and for the feedback! JD
I'm a fan of running catch cans inline with the PCV line. Not the fresh air intake line to the crank case lol(like where this filter is located). Not sure what's going on here 🤷. That hose on the passenger side connects to the TB that should have a port that is in front of the blade. Vacuum shouldn't really exist in front of the blade. This is known as a "closed loop" PCV system. The air that's pulled from in front of the throttle blade, has in fact been metered by the MAF already. Another important reason why you should NOT have a vented filter on the catch can. It's a very efficient system.
Yes I agree, the setup I had needed improvement. I currently have both valve covers vented via 5/8” hose to an open air catch can zero PCV since going turbo. No complaints so far! JD
@@HeadFlowInc yeah with the turbo setup you'd definitely need the vented catch can. Usually plug the pcv ports from the TB and the intake at that point. Turbos make a lot of crank case pressure blow by. Most guys have to because with that much pressure, oil does get pushed back into that line. I enjoy watching your videos by the way. Very educational and satisfying. I ended up porting everything I could on a supercharged V6 build I did just for fun lol
I changed all my valve stem seals thinking that was the issues well they were lightly wore but overall fine. Now I just changed my PCV valve to the 12572717 type GM made just for this issue. Let's see how much it helps.
Thanks for the tip, I haven’t heard of the improvemed PCV valve! Anything to stop the oil from being pulled from the valve cover to the intake manifold. 👍👍👍
@@HeadFlowInc 8 years of having this truck it's always smoked a lil at start. But recently it's been kicking out a huge plume when starting. Bout the size of a VW beetle. After valve seal change it still continued. Finally I noticed oil puddle in my intake manifold and that came thru my PVC line. My PCV rattled like a rattle snake at idle. So I went ahead and bought a new pcv valve and the redesigned one. I'll posy results. I gave my intake manifold and good cleaning to rid the oil.
That is fresh air side of system.. not under vacuum. Drill extra drain holes on pcv side valve cover baffle. If still worried add catch can to pxv side.
Check out the current setup with the turbo, works great! Both valve covers hooked to an open vented catch can. JD ruclips.net/video/RGiTBBOgApE/видео.html
kevo s You can definitely plug that barb on the valve cover, you will have a PCV to relieve crankcase pressure. In a carb application it would be difficult to hook up, it would need to be hooked to the air filter not a vacuum port, that will cause a lean tuning nightmare
You can't just vent to atmosphere because the crankcase pressure won't evacuate without intake vacuum. When I got my LS it was setup that way, and you could hear the pressure release when taking the dipstick out.
03 Suburban with oil consumption issue. Changed driver side valve cover to their redesigned cover but that did not help. Put at least a quart in between oil changes. No visible leaks on driveway either although area in front of oil pan seems to always be wet with oil. Almost like it may only leak when it is actually driving on the road? Or your observation with these lines. Interested in your theory here but not sure what you findings were ultimately.
condor5635 If you put separators on every hose running from the valve covers to the plenum/intake this eliminates engine oil supply as a cause. I don't have enough miles or run time logged, however I haven't seen any oil usage. Check out my videos about adding oil drain back holes to the Pistons during a rebuild. There's data supporting oil consumption associated with stuck piston rings caused by burned engine oil causing a hydraulic situation. By improving the oil drain back behind the oil control rings cures the issue.
HeadFlowInc not really sure what you mean by adding separators based on what you did. Your filter will show oil if in fact it is going into the throttle body area from the valve cover area. Question is how do you then go to the next steps to add the additional piece to separate the oil and return it back to the engine?
condor5635 The way I added the separator to my PCV hose doesn't return the oil, it captures it to be drained every oil change. If you add a separator to the line to the throttle body it will also collect. The fuel filter is positioned such that any oil should simply run back down the hose. Hopefully Using the process of elimination, if you address any hoses between engine oil and the upper plenum you've narrowed the possibilities.
Kevin Hornbuckle Another viewer says the 2004 and newer valve covers have a baffle inside to help with the issue. See the engineers can learn once in a while! lol
Trent Robey The filter on the front near the TB never showed any oil. The separator I installed off the PCV valve driver side rear worked great but I didn’t check/drain it as often as I should, so it filled up completely and put oil in the intake. It’s a battle to keep oil out of the intake!
Any reputable hotrod Fab shop would be able to create a set of VC made from aluminum or SS .. with pretty Tig welds . Plus there built to your clearance specs . Especially if you plan to upgrade the rocker arms, or plan to put a real camshaft that requires longer push rods , benefits from full roller rockers with lock down bars to keep the stud distortion to a min when your @ 7500 + . Thank you GM for the rebirth of my childhood SBC 350 4 bolt , To a DIY build your own race engine for cheap while retaining most of the factory go fast parts, only having to perform a few upgrades here and there for getting to enjoy 500 1000 American HP . On a daily basis.. I have been around this engine since it hit our scene my 2 cents is this engine falls into the same category as the old school non turbo Detroit Diesel's you can't kill but you can shut them down mess around and not pay attention , fire her back up and she running wide open in reverse rotation lol that's coolest thing an engine could do back in them good ole days . Thank you My Universe for having my time lines , inline with the internal combustion engine . No misplacement for displacement. With a big ass cam :). The only non human thing on my planet that can and will always give me chills faster than any human female on my planet. Watching her drag the doors on ole loud mouth, while exploding 15,000 worth of drive train on a $100 race I recorded in HD . Priceless !
CouchHam The small filter in the front never showed any oil. The oil consumption/control issue was centered around the PCV valve sucking oil into the intake, which is a common and documented issue with the LS engine. I found the hose from the PCV needs to have an upward path to allow oil to drain back via gravity then route the vacuum hose to the oil catch can/separator and then to the vacuum source at the Intake. I didn’t check my catch can often enough which allowed it to fill up in turn allowing oil to fill my cleaned intake. Lesson learned! JD
I ended up running both valve covers to a catch can using -10 hose. It works great with the new Turbo setup! Thanks for watching and the feedback! Check out more of my videos! JD
It is hooked up to the intake pipe between the MAF and the throttle body. It’s easy to see if you have a K&N cold air intake. It’s a straight shot from the valve cover to that pipe.
stan harp I tell you what, I want you to rig up a vacuum gauge inline to the hose attaching the passenger valve cover and the throttle body. 1st Is there any vacuum showing on the gauge? Nope the engines not running. 2nd start the engine and check the gauge.... oops my hose I thought was a fresh air source is now affected by “Venturi Vacuum” pulling into the throttle body and intake. 3rd Even if the PCV line has more vacuum than the Venturi it’s still a stagnant situation with 2 varying vacuum sources fighting each other. 👎 See guys, it’s just this simple, there is no fresh air source to offset the vacuum being added to the crankcase.
I see your has a throttle cable, so unless a van application, it must 2002 or a little older. I have a 5.3L from a 2003 Tahoe. It has the same valve port and hose, but it plugs into the air intake tube. So just a little different, but on yours, I like your thinking with vertical inline filer. It looks like a fuel filter for a 1975 Datsun B210. Is this actually vacuum or ported just in front of the throttle valve? Curious! I will be watching for more as you got a lot of irons in the fire. Take care!
Dean Kay The fuel filter worked fine, but there never was any oil captured between the Pass Valve cover and the Throttle Body. My 2002 setup OEM had a hose from the Pass cover to a timed port on the throttle body which is supposed to be the clean air. JD
Thanks for clearing that up because I was not familiar with that type of throttle body. Thanks much. I would bet the candidate for president, mayor Bloomberg, will eventually get around to cutting down anyone who fixes cars, don’t have the grey matter to get a higher paying computer coding job. He already hit farmers & machinist as being simple. Thanks!
gene cauthorne You have what they call a "fixed oriface" PCV system. There's no moving parts in the newer style PCV valve. Yours does help reduce oil consumption slightly.
You won’t need one on the passenger side valve cover, I never saw a drop. Those 3/8” in/out clear fuel filters are available at any auto parts store or online. Order a catch can setup online eBay or Amazon for the driver side. JD
I dont understand people haveing oil consumption problems my 2010 suburban 5.3 has over 100k miles on it doesnt use a drop,i just took a trip put over 6100 miles and it didnt use a drop and most of the trip speed limit was 75 to 80 mphs and i ran the speed.
Dewayne Miguel It’s great to hear a success story! Unfortunately you are the minority when it comes to oil consumption so consider yourself fortunate. I’m hoping GM found ways to correct the initial causes for consumption, it looks like the 2010 model is far better than the earlier versions. Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD
Icouldbe? As long as you are providing enough fresh air to offset the dirty air being pulled out by the PCV setup you’ll be fine if you plugged them. In Boosted applications we don’t run a PCV valve at all, instead we run -10 AN fittings and hose from each valve cover to a single open air catch can. JD
I have a 2006 5.3 I am running a catch can off the too vent on intake into the can then from can to PCV on back driver side But also rebuilding another 5.3 for my son’s avalanche going to run same can setup was thinking of just plugging the pass barbs Your opinion?
I’ve put a cap on both those barns before no issues. They also sell a tint push on filter for the pipe on the valve cover. The biggest thing is to make sure the hose from the PCV to catch can is at a 45*+ angle out of the cover then to a good catch can hopefully mounted above the engine, or as high as practical to aid in oil drain back. Check the catch can often. Thanks JD
I’ve put a cap on both those barns before no issues. They also sell a tint push on filter for the pipe on the valve cover. The biggest thing is to make sure the hose from the PCV to catch can is at a 45*+ angle out of the cover then to a good catch can hopefully mounted above the engine, or as high as practical to aid in oil drain back. Check the catch can often. Thanks JD
It’s a design flaw where the PCV valve is being hit by direct oil splash from the rocker arms. GM made an updated rocker cover with a better baffle and a different PCV design. Also, if you hook up a catch can, with the hose at an upward angle from the PCV valve at 45* or steeper it makes it much harder for oil to make it as far. This oil consumption issue is a real problem, on our Turbo applications we do not run the PCV at all or don’t hook it to vacuum basically having open air at both Valve covers. On my Turbo 4.8 I have a conversion oil cap to -10 Barb on both covers. JD
And how does that work with a bigger hole, I think the guy who sold me the pistons and rings didn't tell me that rings were sized for boost around .030, and might not have seated but regardless I'm pulling it apart and installing new rings
You probably won't have oil in there since it's on the wrong side of the pcv system. There's a good reason the valve cover was redesigned on the OTHER side. 🤔
schrankm That unfortunately isn’t correct, Gen 4 engines received a “Baffle” inside the passenger valve cover while the Driverside, they moved the PCV from the valve cover to the back of the intake. Another fact, on the Gen 3 engines, sucking oil straight from the passenger valve cover, deposited directly behind the throttle blade. Check them out, the entire intake will be full of engine oil and the inside of the throttle body will be caked with burned engine oil. This is a long validated issue with the LS/Vortec engines. My setup puts a separator on any vacuum hose from the intake to the engine/crankcase, results in Zero oil getting to the intake. 👍
+HeadFlowInc - I agree with you there, I do see a lot of " Steam " on my Dad's Truck on the Passenger as well. Maybe there is a Blow-By that I don't know about. But sure there is a lot of Vapor coming out for sure!
Jordan Bronson I forgot to check my other separator for the PCV system on the driver side. The combination of blow-by and having the separator lower than the valve cover was a bad combo. The PCV separator filled up and put a ton of oil in the intake. 😳. It’s my fault, I kept putting off checking it since I never noticed any oil in the small filter on the front right. My new 4.8 build is getting the PCV installed in the rear of the valley pan, same as the LS6, LS2, LS3, and LS7. 👍
+HeadFlowInc - Maybe you can do an " Oil Cap Breather Mod " ... I did it under $5.00 to get some of the Moisture out from the Passenger Side. See Video here: ruclips.net/video/oYNm3EN9K1c/видео.html
+HeadFlowInc - On the PCV Side, you need an Oil Catch Can! I got mine for $15.00 including shipping. I was going to make one, but with all the Parts / Fittings.... It was Cheaper to get one on eBay. LOL
There is no external PCV valve that you can remove as in traditional PCV valves. It is built into the valve covers with restrictive flow instead of a PCV check valve. When you remove the valve cover you will see a metal shield inside.
It’s very common, every LS intake I’ve seen has oil in them. What baffles my mind is people still try to argue about the oil consumption issues. Not only does the PCV setup have issues pulling oil up to the intake, on higher mileage units the rings can get stuck in the ring lands from burned/coated engine oil due to a poor oil drain back provision from the oil control rings. I have a couple videos on my channel about the oil drain back issues and how I’ve corrected them when rebuilding/refreshing the engine. JD
@@HeadFlowInc we took off valve covers last weekend, and my mechanic said this engine is on its last leg. the sludge was so heavy on top of the engine (rocker arms, springs..etc), that he said it would be cheaper to put in a new engine from autozone. I bought this 2005 GMC sierra with 5.3l only 3 months ago from a dealer. it has 155k miles. the oil pressure is at 20 when warm, and 40 at cold. plus, the RPM when fully warmed up is always at 500 at idle, and drops to 300 from time to time. this prompted me to search for a solution, and my mechanic friend did the work, but nothing fixed the problem until we discovered the sludge problem. I did purchase a 2 year warranty from AUL for powertrain. I don't know how to deal with this problem. What would you do? should I buy a new engine if my warranty pays towards it, or have him rebuild this one?
oh, forgot to mention, we already pulled down the pick-up tube, and cleaned the sludge in the pan, and cleaned the screen, and placed a new gasket for oil pick up tube. changed the sending unit. nothing helps the low oil pressure.
Wow this stinks, with only 155k miles it makes me wonder if the swapped the gauge cluster? It takes a long time to turn oil into thick sludge. The oil pressure is normal in the majority of the LS engines I’ve seen and the factory idle is set at 500-550 rpm. Stumbling idle could be a dirty MAF I’m really shocked this has turned into a fiasco.
Worked great but if you don’t check the catch can it can fill up with oil and ph ET oil get pulled into the intake. Always make the hose go straight up from the PCV so gravity helps. JD
Can someone please help me!! I have a 2005 cadillac escalade. Has the 5.3l engine. I have an oil leak drip above starter, and i have an oil leak above oil filter. They both drip the same amount of oil. I've changed sensors, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, oil pressure sensor. Transmission inspection hole is dry. The plate inside is dry. Not rear main seals. Not sensors. Wtf could it be??
The leak could be the valley pan with oil running down the back of the block to each side. Does the 2005 still have the rear cam sensor? The only other thing I can think of are the valve covers which you’ve changed. JD
@@chrisg1364 There should be a trail, top to bottom. There’s only a few places the oil can come from. Get a clean White rag and wipe the back of the block to find the origin point. It almost has to be from one of the sensor holes or a leaking block plug. They sell dye you can put in the oil that glows under a black light, try it. JD
Yes but it’s not needed on the passenger side valve cover vent. The issue is splash oil being pulled through the PCV valve up to the intake manifold especially on the early truck LS engines. Later driver side valve covers had an improved baffle setup. Running an oil separator does work but you’ll need to empty it regularly. Or it helps if you run the vacuum hose to the PCV at a 90° angle/vertical and add a loop so oil has to fight gravity to reach the intake manifold. JD
Once I went turbo on the new 4.8 build I set it up with an open air vented catch can with -10 or 5/8” hose coming from each valve cover to the can; ie PCV delete it’s perfect! 3+ years later I’ve never had any oil in the catch can. JD
Hipothesee! Nice!😂 This is nonsense! The side you put that fuel filter on (lol) flows from throttle to valve cover to make up the crankcase air that is drawn out by the PVC which is on the other valve cover. They're called oil catch cans genius🙃
Yeah I never saw a single drop from the passenger side but the drivers side would fill up all the time! Tip: You can route the hose to the PCV valve so it goes straight up, add as much as possible to make it harder for the oil to climb/pulled out. I currently run two open 5/8” lines without a PCV to an open breather catch can and it’s always dry. JD
I would not loop them together unless they’re connected to a vented catch can setup. Looking together without venting essentially plugs off or eliminates function. The hose from the Pass side cover to the throttle body is supposed to be the fresh air source but isn’t very affective but does work. JD
kc0lif 😂 what’s interesting is how GM made the entries to the intake runners at the roof of the intake! This roof entry to the runners allows more than 1Qt to accumulate without getting sucked into the engine...🤔
LS engine suck oil through the PCV valve filling the intake I’ve ended up putting a separator on it the separator can work but you have to remember to drain it all right I’ll just suck oil even worse. There’s no real reason I have the small filter on the passenger cover nothing ever comes out of it.
@@HeadFlowInc Hey, you learned something about your engine by putting that filter on. A good experiment. If the filter ever oils up, it will indicate some impressive blow by. :0
You shouldn't need a filter or catch can on a naturally aspirated engine, my 5.7 litre LS1 engine doesn't have much of that problem,maybe because Holden ordered them with the LS6 intake from 2000 onwards,even then,yours doesn't have the breather tube barb towards the back of that valve rocker cover which mine has. Mine has a hose because the rubber parts deteriorated,it links the 2 valve rocker covers together to where the PCV valve port grommet is then it tees off into a PCV valve which is located near the right hand path of the fuel rail, it is then plumbed into the inlet manifold where the throttle body bolts onto. If there's no oil sitting the MAF tube then I don't worry about it,in the LS intakes I think that oil inevitably builds up over time but the fine oil mist or crankcase vapours is meant to get burnt off in the combustion chamber then filtered out through the catalytic converters.
no you don't need that stuff on a stock LS nor a so called updated valve cover drill extra holes in the baffle on the drivers side valve cover and enlarge the one by the pvc
James Holbrook It was coming through the PCV hose on the driver side valve cover 100%. I think this engine needed new valve seals and at 315k+ miles the ring seal wasn’t the best.
Ya i mean you can get the motors cheap enough it would not be that expensive or a huge deal to go thru one with seals and gaskets maybe hone the cylinders and new rings I mean thats probably not going to 100% fix that problem but should definitely be manageable since you already have a catch can
If your going to make informational videos you should at least understand what your talking about . You have the flow backwards . The hose on the passenger side is the clean air INTO the engine . It is filtered by the air filter . Pull your intake hose off the front of the throttle body and look at the small hole at the top . There is No vacuum on this hose ,it is just ported through the throttle body to the filtered air in FRONT of the throttle blade . The oil in the intake is coming from the driver side valve cover being designed wrong . There is a new one available . Or you can use a catch can on the driver (vac) side .
OnTheLake I’m well aware of what I’m doing and what hose goes where thanks. You’re entitled to your opinion, good luck on your build if you have one. JD
OnTheLake The hose from the passenger valve cover to the throttle body sees a Venturi effect vacuum via plenum draw and high speed air entering. See, sometimes there’s more to something than meets the eye. 😉
Wouldnt you agree there is more vacuum on the back side of the throttle plate than the front . If so then understand air comes in through the main air filter box through the small hole in the throttle body into the passenger valve cover through the crankcase out the driver side valve cover into the pvc hose and on to the the intake (back side of throttle blade). Never will there be more "venturi" effect on the inlet hose than Vacuum effect .
Thank you for the information that made my day I’m doin a ls swap and my doner motor looked really oily and I was gonna put rings in it but it ran fine and had great compression and I found this video wow that’s what it is it saved me from tearing it apart
Family Mann if you can, it might be a good idea to replace the valve seals, they seem to get hard/loose with higher mileage. On this engine at 300k the guide seals were the only thing I found really needing replacement. Good luck on your project! 👍
This is a great post and you did a great job with it. Funny thing is not 2 hrs ago I was changing my tensioner pully and noticed oil and dirt just caked under the throttle body and top of plentuim.so i spent a couple hrs. cleaning it all up removing the soaked sponge spacer I'm talking dripping soaked all along trying to figure out where it could be coming from. oil filler tube being one, junk, junk, junk delete it! i have a point bear with me. i know this has just become a major issue#1 because i had the front of the motor apart to replace oil pick up, oil pump went ahead and did everything while i was there timing gears, chain water pump oil pan gasket and so on maybe 8 months ago so i know it was not that way or put back together with a mess like that so close. Since then, began doing a lot of highway driving and developed one hell of an oil leak. I followed it to the top, rear of block. Changed oil pressure sensor with 0 results. I've been leaving oil stains everywhere I go the size of 4" radius, crazy oil consumption and my exhaust crossover covered with baked on oil and lets just say everything to the rear axle is very well lubricated. I'm going out of my mind because my ole 2005 escalade is very clean top and bottom. This just solved it for me without spending more time chasing what I found today. Thank you so much. This is a very comen issue with the oil showing up around oil filter, pan etc. area leading to people to throwing gaskets and seals and sensors out of desperation chasing the source. I will be sharing this to many having the same issue so make no mistake you are helping and making a huge impact. Thanks again for sharing. I have the LQ9 6.0(}, V8, MFI, Iron block, High output 345 hp in a 2005 escalade with 250 k miles. these engines are amazing and while i had the pan dropped there was no sludge, no grit, metal nothing but a clean but varnished oil pan. Oil changes work people! my brother in-law who has the highest GM certification you can get and stays up to date with 30 + years' experience said there is little to no wear on crank bearings or crank and was blown away by same find with the cam. Again, taken care of these LS motors are great. do they have some issues? yes sir they do but nothing to cry about for what they deliver. sorry for the story book people but there you go. This man just shared knowledge to an easy fix to a very illusive oil consumption issue.
I bet the intake manifold is full of oil. Once you create a path where any oil from the PCV valve has to beat gravity to get out and if possible use a separator to keep any oil from getting to the intake you should be good.
They sell updated valve covers as well with better baffling to help. Thanks! JD
Rather than an inline filter, I would recommend an oil catch can with a drain. I installed one on my LS1, in addition to the LS6 valley cover with built in PCV valve and haven't gotten a single drop of oil in my intake since. My car use to drink oil like crazy before this too!
TheGuitarGuy09 I used the fuel filter between the valve cover and throttle body for two reasons. I already had the filter and it was super easy. I also built an oil separator catch can for the PCV hose. So far I haven't seen any oil in the small filter and I haven't tried draining the catch can yet. My goal was the same, stop oil consumption before it started. See my videos to see the catch can I built out of a Fram canister fuel filter housing and spare parts. Thanks for the feedback! Also check out my video on adding drain back holes to the oil ring lands to avoid oil consumption. JD
+TheGuitarGuy09 - Yea a Can would be better and I agreed 100%. I installed 2 Cans recently... I thought I was installing an Oil Catch Can. Come to find out, I install Moisture / Coolant Catch Can instead, LOL. 1 Car, get about 1 Ounce of Moisture every 100 Miles. The other get 1 Ounce every 400 Miles. I know it's a lot and I didn't expect that, but I am glad I install the Cans :).
@@HeadFlowInc so at this point do you think nothing is needed on that breather on the passenger side? I have a 06 Yukon I've owned since new. She has 130K miles. I've never had an oil consumption problem and I've yet to have to pull the intake. It will use like 1/2 quart after 4,000 miles.
Mine will suck it from the catch can
@@michaelbaskinmichael9862 you don't have the can installed properly then
Im working on a 2010 5.3L 130k miles, and found at least 1/4 cup of oil pooled in the intake manifold. The plugs are fouling black in at least half the cylinders, It has the original style valve covers (not the updated valve covers). To get that much oil in the intake requires a great deal of crankcase pressure and air volume, combined with the flooding of oil into the valve covers PCV system. I did not do a leak down test but went straight for engine removal and piston inspection for evidence of blow-by. My hunch was right. Every piston had massive carbon build up on the pistons and the oil rings were loaded with carbon. The cylinders are smooth and still within specs. I am in the process of cleaning the pistons and replacing the rings. I also washed and blew out the internal valve cover's PCV filters with cleaners solvent along with washing out the intake manifold. Once I assemble the engine with new rings, I expect the problem to be fixed for now. After all, the engine ran fine for 130k miles as it was and I believe it should do another 130k miles after this.
Jeff Whisenand I have a video/s discussing how improper oil drain back holes in the Ringlands is the root cause of the “coaking” of oil. Oil gets trapped in the oil control Ringland and basically gets cooked/reduced to a sludge then hardens.
If you look at the LS pistons they do not have holes in the back of the oil control Ringland, instead they have two slots each side partially covered by the bottom support ring etc. greatly reducing if not blocking oil drain back. In my videos I discuss and show how to add drain holes to the pistons to drain the oil more efficiently.
You are 100% correct in your findings! Imho Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it! I’ll see if I can link those videos! 👍👍👍
ruclips.net/video/YviqyNByn0g/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/bbq24Ufsqhw/видео.html
Jeff Whisenand ruclips.net/video/bbq24Ufsqhw/видео.html
You need to fit a catch can from your valley plenum to the intake manifold. Got about 50ml every two or so weeks in the catch can.
I had a fuel filter fit like you have. Found no oil in there it only discolored the clear plastic filter from the oil vapour in the valve cover.
if you drill extra drain holes in the baffle and enlarge the one by the pvc you don't need a bunch of aftermarket parts or a so called up dated valve cover
i know I'm kinda randomly asking but does anyone know of a good site to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Juan Travis Lately I have been using flixzone. Just google for it :)
Would you happen to have a link for this mod?
Ive done this alot with pevious gen 3s ive built but i had one engine i built i had to up datee the valve cover. The cover just had to much grime and 400,000 miles on it. Also it was causing valve rattle or detonation because the oil was getting in the air fuel mixture causing lower octane.
I just had to pull mine to free a stuck AFM/DOD lifter. Close to a quart came out. Also had slickness all over the inside of my K&N intake pipe. That driver side PCV is the culprit for the manifold. The passenger side PCV for the intake pipe. I took the time to add an Elite Engineering catch can and clean-side separator. The clean-side separator blocks off the passenger side in favor of an oil cap replacement. That was about 1000 miles ago. Lots of oil in the catch can. I even did the updated driver side valve cover.
I was hoping the newer valve cover would help more. One trick is to make sure the hoses from the separator hoses have a 45*-90* angle from the valve cover so any oil has to overcome gravity to make it to the catch can. We’re having good luck not running a PCV valve instead running a true dual open air vented catch can setup installed as I described. JD
ruclips.net/video/RGiTBBOgApE/видео.html
@@HeadFlowInc it seems to be more vaporized oil that condenses instead of full liquid. I suspect it is greatly reduced and then the catch can contains it. Will likely pull intake in 10K to see.
I know everyone I giving you hell about the oil catch but I like your filter idea as a quick fix!
The oil catch can worked great but I didn’t drain it or check it often enough! Also I found out you want the hose from the PCV valve to run straight up from the valve if possible or a bare minimum of 45* up so the oil has to overcome gravity to ever have a chance to get to the catch can. I sure wish I had checked my catch can! JD
you don't need a filter or catch can clean the valve cover and drill extra holes in the baffle enlarge the one by the pvc
I just installed a homemade catch can on my 06 2,400mi L33 and I have noticed roughly a cup of oil in it with less than 100 miles since installed.. after presenting my findings to the local forums, they blamed blowby from my rings not being properly gapped.. well after further investigation, I discovered that my engine has an extreme amount of intake vacuum.. common sense is now telling me that im not blowing oil via blowby, but instead, im actually sucking oil out of the valve cover. My driver side valve cover isn't the PCV style but the full length baffle instead. With the lack of draining properties, my engine is acting like a vacuum cleaner in my valve cover lol. Im probably just going to remove that baffle and see what it does. If that dont work, ill just change valve covers.
100% sucking oil through the PCV valve has been proven and acknowledged by GM. Things that help include the updated v2 valve cover, running the hose to the PCV straight up in a way oil has to overcome gravity to make it to the intake or catch can.
Also you can move the PCV to the valley by using an F-body valley cover.
You are 100% on the right track! JD
Maybe this is why LS engines are so reliable. The are oiling the cylinder wall better than any other.
GM supposedly fixed the issue by redesigned oil baffles in the drivers side valve cover. Filling the intake with oil was/is an issue for a long time.
Thats the crankcase air intake. It does not suck air from your valve cover. The port for that hose is on the airfilter side of the throttle plate of the TB so its not vacuum. A filter wouldnt hurt anything really but you should switch the filter flow direction. The pvc exit is on the drivers side. The exit is vented into the intake behind the TB. It would be more beneficial to install your filter to the drivers side hose.
Ls6 valley cover for the win! Cheers!
Art Life Yes I agree 100%, I wish I had known about the LS6 cover sooner! Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it!!! JD
Can you post a link to the ls6 valley covers? Thanks
Is it a valley cover or valve cover?
@@teezyhernandez9345 the ls6 valley cover...it has the pcv system built in and eliminates all the hoses and fittings of the LS1...one hose...from valley cover fitting to throttle body fitting, about 4 inches, one of the best mods for an LS1
Pretty sure that is not a "vacuum" line but a source of filtered air to be drawn from the air horn into the crankcase. Air and contaminants are drawn out through the PCV hose on the opposite valve cover, but the pass side hose is needed to supply fresh air, just as in PCV systems since their introduction. This is not to say that excessive blow by in the crankcase will not sometimes back flow through the breather tube, but it would be abnormal. Newer versions (Gen 4) draw clean air in from the intake tube before the throttle body but the effect is the same.
I have considered replacing my truck oil filler cap with a filter element type cap which would supply ample fresh air and I think would deal with occasional excess blow by better than the small breather tube. If I thought it would clear the firewall, I would use a pass side valve cover on the drivers side and use the tall oil filler tube as an oil separator to draw PCV gases out of.... but I think it would hit the firewall.
The oil in my trucks seems to get pretty nasty. I think two major factors are an insufficient PCV system and the LONG oil change intervals shown by the computer. I usually change oil around the 50% oil life reading but when I recently let it play out longer, I had the dreaded oil pressure drop (from 40 to 20psi). An oil change instantly brought it back to normal. My truck has about 100,000 miles on it and from now on, it will get more frequent oil changes.
Anything you can do to reduce the amount of oil being transferred from the PCV valve into the top of the intake the better. Some people use a longer hose and add a loop between the vacuum source and the PCV.
The Gen 4 are supposed to have a redesigned baffle to help with the oil splash being sucked up through the PCV system.
Now I’ve gone Turbo I run open -10 lines from each valve cover to an open element catch can. The odd part is I’ve never collected anything in the catch can. JD
@@HeadFlowIncwhat hose size did you use for the valve covers? The driver side and passenger side are different sizes correct?
I believe that hose on the passenger side is where the clean filtered air is drawn in as the PVC valve is pulling vacuum. You will have some oil in your little filter do too pulsations. The real issue is the defective valve cover on driver side.
Yeah, I never had a drop of oil in the passengers side filter but couldn’t stop oil from being pulled through the PCV setup.
I’ve heard you can add a “loop” in the hose, use a 180°/straight PCV valve, making sure the vacuum hose runs vertical from the valve cover. All these tips are to use gravity to stop oil from making it to the intake manifold.
Once I went Turbo I switched to a Vented catch can plumbed from each valve cover and so far haven’t found any oil in the can. Win win!
Thanks for watching and for the feedback! JD
I'm a fan of running catch cans inline with the PCV line. Not the fresh air intake line to the crank case lol(like where this filter is located). Not sure what's going on here 🤷. That hose on the passenger side connects to the TB that should have a port that is in front of the blade. Vacuum shouldn't really exist in front of the blade. This is known as a "closed loop" PCV system. The air that's pulled from in front of the throttle blade, has in fact been metered by the MAF already. Another important reason why you should NOT have a vented filter on the catch can. It's a very efficient system.
Yes I agree, the setup I had needed improvement. I currently have both valve covers vented via 5/8” hose to an open air catch can zero PCV since going turbo. No complaints so far! JD
@@HeadFlowInc yeah with the turbo setup you'd definitely need the vented catch can. Usually plug the pcv ports from the TB and the intake at that point. Turbos make a lot of crank case pressure blow by. Most guys have to because with that much pressure, oil does get pushed back into that line.
I enjoy watching your videos by the way. Very educational and satisfying. I ended up porting everything I could on a supercharged V6 build I did just for fun lol
thanks
I changed all my valve stem seals thinking that was the issues well they were lightly wore but overall fine.
Now I just changed my PCV valve to the
12572717 type GM made just for this issue. Let's see how much it helps.
Thanks for the tip, I haven’t heard of the improvemed PCV valve! Anything to stop the oil from being pulled from the valve cover to the intake manifold. 👍👍👍
@@HeadFlowInc 8 years of having this truck it's always smoked a lil at start. But recently it's been kicking out a huge plume when starting. Bout the size of a VW beetle. After valve seal change it still continued. Finally I noticed oil puddle in my intake manifold and that came thru my PVC line. My PCV rattled like a rattle snake at idle. So I went ahead and bought a new pcv valve and the redesigned one. I'll posy results.
I gave my intake manifold and good cleaning to rid the oil.
That is fresh air side of system.. not under vacuum. Drill extra drain holes on pcv side valve cover baffle. If still worried add catch can to pxv side.
Check out the current setup with the turbo, works great! Both valve covers hooked to an open vented catch can. JD
ruclips.net/video/RGiTBBOgApE/видео.html
hi I was thinking of going carbureted where would I connect that oil separator filter on an carbureted intake
kevo s You can definitely plug that barb on the valve cover, you will have a PCV to relieve crankcase pressure. In a carb application it would be difficult to hook up, it would need to be hooked to the air filter not a vacuum port, that will cause a lean tuning nightmare
So can I just plug the vacuum port on the top of the intake and vent the valve cover to atmosphere?
Trey W Yes, many people plug the port and vent to atmosphere. Iirc you need to vent both sides, generally they run both sides to a catch can.
You can't just vent to atmosphere because the crankcase pressure won't evacuate without intake vacuum. When I got my LS it was setup that way, and you could hear the pressure release when taking the dipstick out.
03 Suburban with oil consumption issue. Changed driver side valve cover to their redesigned cover but that did not help. Put at least a quart in between oil changes. No visible leaks on driveway either although area in front of oil pan seems to always be wet with oil. Almost like it may only leak when it is actually driving on the road? Or your observation with these lines. Interested in your theory here but not sure what you findings were ultimately.
condor5635 If you put separators on every hose running from the valve covers to the plenum/intake this eliminates engine oil supply as a cause. I don't have enough miles or run time logged, however I haven't seen any oil usage. Check out my videos about adding oil drain back holes to the Pistons during a rebuild. There's data supporting oil consumption associated with stuck piston rings caused by burned engine oil causing a hydraulic situation. By improving the oil drain back behind the oil control rings cures the issue.
HeadFlowInc not really sure what you mean by adding separators based on what you did. Your filter will show oil if in fact it is going into the throttle body area from the valve cover area. Question is how do you then go to the next steps to add the additional piece to separate the oil and return it back to the engine?
condor5635 The way I added the separator to my PCV hose doesn't return the oil, it captures it to be drained every oil change. If you add a separator to the line to the throttle body it will also collect.
The fuel filter is positioned such that any oil should simply run back down the hose. Hopefully
Using the process of elimination, if you address any hoses between engine oil and the upper plenum you've narrowed the possibilities.
That engineer will probably be interested in the results you get from your device.
Kevin Hornbuckle Another viewer says the 2004 and newer valve covers have a baffle inside to help with the issue. See the engineers can learn once in a while! lol
How did this idea hold up....how long until you have to empty the filter..
Trent Robey The filter on the front near the TB never showed any oil. The separator I installed off the PCV valve driver side rear worked great but I didn’t check/drain it as often as I should, so it filled up completely and put oil in the intake.
It’s a battle to keep oil out of the intake!
Where do I find these later valve covers from?
Trent Robey I think GM put them on around 2005, you’ll see they’re made different.
Any reputable hotrod Fab shop would be able to create a set of VC made from aluminum or SS .. with pretty Tig welds . Plus there built to your clearance specs . Especially if you plan to upgrade the rocker arms, or plan to put a real camshaft that requires longer push rods , benefits from full roller rockers with lock down bars to keep the stud distortion to a min when your @ 7500 + .
Thank you GM for the rebirth of my childhood SBC 350 4 bolt ,
To a DIY build your own race engine for cheap while retaining most of the factory go fast parts, only having to perform a few upgrades here and there for getting to enjoy 500 1000 American HP .
On a daily basis..
I have been around this engine since it hit our scene my 2 cents is this engine falls into the same category as the old school non turbo Detroit Diesel's you can't kill but you can shut them down mess around and not pay attention , fire her back up and she running wide open in reverse rotation lol that's coolest thing an engine could do back in them good ole days .
Thank you My Universe for having my time lines , inline with the internal combustion engine .
No misplacement for displacement. With a big ass cam :).
The only non human thing on my planet that can and will always give me chills faster than any human female on my planet.
Watching her drag the doors on ole loud mouth, while exploding 15,000 worth of drive train on a $100 race I recorded in HD .
Priceless !
Another 15 minute video with 30 seconds of content.
Its all about the algorithm . He knows something.
Is there another video on the amount of oil this filter captured?? Like part 2??
CouchHam The small filter in the front never showed any oil. The oil consumption/control issue was centered around the PCV valve sucking oil into the intake, which is a common and documented issue with the LS engine.
I found the hose from the PCV needs to have an upward path to allow oil to drain back via gravity then route the vacuum hose to the oil catch can/separator and then to the vacuum source at the Intake. I didn’t check my catch can often enough which allowed it to fill up in turn allowing oil to fill my cleaned intake. Lesson learned! JD
nice mine is 2008 5.3 it has that hose but other end not hooked up to anything🤔 electronic driveby / throttle , couldnt see any empty vacuums
I ended up running both valve covers to a catch can using -10 hose. It works great with the new Turbo setup! Thanks for watching and the feedback! Check out more of my videos! JD
It is hooked up to the intake pipe between the MAF and the throttle body. It’s easy to see if you have a K&N cold air intake. It’s a straight shot from the valve cover to that pipe.
On my 07 tbss , the passenger side is sucking freash air in from in front of the throttle body...
stan harp I tell you what, I want you to rig up a vacuum gauge inline to the hose attaching the passenger valve cover and the throttle body.
1st Is there any vacuum showing on the gauge? Nope the engines not running.
2nd start the engine and check the gauge.... oops my hose I thought was a fresh air source is now affected by “Venturi Vacuum” pulling into the throttle body and intake.
3rd Even if the PCV line has more vacuum than the Venturi it’s still a stagnant situation with 2 varying vacuum sources fighting each other. 👎
See guys, it’s just this simple, there is no fresh air source to offset the vacuum being added to the crankcase.
It isn’t sucking air from there. The intake is sucking out oil vapor from that passenger side valve cover. It’s the reverse.
Can you tell me the Size of the kt 0003 bushing Im having a hard time finding it here in Canada. Or if possible maybe there is another part #.
Jason Diachuk I had someone provide a different part number, I’ll have to search the comments on that video.
@@HeadFlowInc 👍
Jason Diachuk Factory Air #49908 from Advance Auto Parts
I see your has a throttle cable, so unless a van application, it must 2002 or a little older. I have a 5.3L from a 2003 Tahoe. It has the same valve port and hose, but it plugs into the air intake tube. So just a little different, but on yours, I like your thinking with vertical inline filer. It looks like a fuel filter for a 1975 Datsun B210. Is this actually vacuum or ported just in front of the throttle valve? Curious! I will be watching for more as you got a lot of irons in the fire. Take care!
Dean Kay The fuel filter worked fine, but there never was any oil captured between the Pass Valve cover and the Throttle Body.
My 2002 setup OEM had a hose from the Pass cover to a timed port on the throttle body which is supposed to be the clean air. JD
Thanks for clearing that up because I was not familiar with that type of throttle body. Thanks much.
I would bet the candidate for president, mayor Bloomberg, will eventually get around to cutting down anyone who fixes cars, don’t have the grey matter to get a higher paying computer coding job. He already hit farmers & machinist as being simple. Thanks!
Can someone one tell me where the pcv Value is on a GMC Sierra 4.8 or please show me on my 04
gene cauthorne You have what they call a "fixed oriface" PCV system. There's no moving parts in the newer style PCV valve. Yours does help reduce oil consumption slightly.
Where can I bought those filter?
You won’t need one on the passenger side valve cover, I never saw a drop.
Those 3/8” in/out clear fuel filters are available at any auto parts store or online.
Order a catch can setup online eBay or Amazon for the driver side. JD
I dont understand people haveing oil consumption problems my 2010 suburban 5.3 has over 100k miles on it doesnt use a drop,i just took a trip put over 6100 miles and it didnt use a drop and most of the trip speed limit was 75 to 80 mphs and i ran the speed.
Dewayne Miguel It’s great to hear a success story! Unfortunately you are the minority when it comes to oil consumption so consider yourself fortunate. I’m hoping GM found ways to correct the initial causes for consumption, it looks like the 2010 model is far better than the earlier versions.
Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD
I know this is old ...But it being just another vent Why couldn’t you plug the barb on the valve cover and the barb on the throttle body?
Icouldbe? As long as you are providing enough fresh air to offset the dirty air being pulled out by the PCV setup you’ll be fine if you plugged them.
In Boosted applications we don’t run a PCV valve at all, instead we run -10 AN fittings and hose from each valve cover to a single open air catch can. JD
I have a 2006 5.3 I am running a catch can off the too vent on intake into the can then from can to PCV on back driver side But also rebuilding another 5.3 for my son’s avalanche going to run same can setup was thinking of just plugging the pass barbs Your opinion?
I’ve put a cap on both those barns before no issues. They also sell a tint push on filter for the pipe on the valve cover.
The biggest thing is to make sure the hose from the PCV to catch can is at a 45*+ angle out of the cover then to a good catch can hopefully mounted above the engine, or as high as practical to aid in oil drain back. Check the catch can often. Thanks JD
I’ve put a cap on both those barns before no issues. They also sell a tint push on filter for the pipe on the valve cover.
The biggest thing is to make sure the hose from the PCV to catch can is at a 45*+ angle out of the cover then to a good catch can hopefully mounted above the engine, or as high as practical to aid in oil drain back. Check the catch can often. Thanks JD
Mine is doing the exact same sucking oil from PCs valve and passenger side line add to fresh air inlet and PCs t in too stop my oil sucking
It’s a design flaw where the PCV valve is being hit by direct oil splash from the rocker arms. GM made an updated rocker cover with a better baffle and a different PCV design.
Also, if you hook up a catch can, with the hose at an upward angle from the PCV valve at 45* or steeper it makes it much harder for oil to make it as far. This oil consumption issue is a real problem, on our Turbo applications we do not run the PCV at all or don’t hook it to vacuum basically having open air at both Valve covers. On my Turbo 4.8 I have a conversion oil cap to -10 Barb on both covers. JD
drill extra drain holes in the baffle and enlarge the one by the pvc then clean your cover works every time
And how does that work with a bigger hole, I think the guy who sold me the pistons and rings didn't tell me that rings were sized for boost around .030, and might not have seated but regardless I'm pulling it apart and installing new rings
You probably won't have oil in there since it's on the wrong side of the pcv system. There's a good reason the valve cover was redesigned on the OTHER side. 🤔
schrankm That unfortunately isn’t correct, Gen 4 engines received a “Baffle” inside the passenger valve cover while the Driverside, they moved the PCV from the valve cover to the back of the intake.
Another fact, on the Gen 3 engines, sucking oil straight from the passenger valve cover, deposited directly behind the throttle blade. Check them out, the entire intake will be full of engine oil and the inside of the throttle body will be caked with burned engine oil. This is a long validated issue with the LS/Vortec engines.
My setup puts a separator on any vacuum hose from the intake to the engine/crankcase, results in Zero oil getting to the intake. 👍
+HeadFlowInc - I agree with you there, I do see a lot of " Steam " on my Dad's Truck on the Passenger as well. Maybe there is a Blow-By that I don't know about. But sure there is a lot of Vapor coming out for sure!
Jordan Bronson I forgot to check my other separator for the PCV system on the driver side. The combination of blow-by and having the separator lower than the valve cover was a bad combo. The PCV separator filled up and put a ton of oil in the intake. 😳. It’s my fault, I kept putting off checking it since I never noticed any oil in the small filter on the front right.
My new 4.8 build is getting the PCV installed in the rear of the valley pan, same as the LS6, LS2, LS3, and LS7. 👍
+HeadFlowInc - Maybe you can do an " Oil Cap Breather Mod " ... I did it under $5.00 to get some of the Moisture out from the Passenger Side. See Video here: ruclips.net/video/oYNm3EN9K1c/видео.html
+HeadFlowInc - On the PCV Side, you need an Oil Catch Can! I got mine for $15.00 including shipping. I was going to make one, but with all the Parts / Fittings.... It was Cheaper to get one on eBay. LOL
Can anyone show me where the pcv Value is an how to change it on a GMC Sierra 4.8
There is no external PCV valve that you can remove as in traditional PCV valves. It is built into the valve covers with restrictive flow instead of a PCV check valve. When you remove the valve cover you will see a metal shield inside.
I drained 4 Oz of oil out of my intake plenum last week.
It’s very common, every LS intake I’ve seen has oil in them. What baffles my mind is people still try to argue about the oil consumption issues.
Not only does the PCV setup have issues pulling oil up to the intake, on higher mileage units the rings can get stuck in the ring lands from burned/coated engine oil due to a poor oil drain back provision from the oil control rings. I have a couple videos on my channel about the oil drain back issues and how I’ve corrected them when rebuilding/refreshing the engine. JD
@@HeadFlowInc we took off valve covers last weekend, and my mechanic said this engine is on its last leg. the sludge was so heavy on top of the engine (rocker arms, springs..etc), that he said it would be cheaper to put in a new engine from autozone. I bought this 2005 GMC sierra with 5.3l only 3 months ago from a dealer. it has 155k miles. the oil pressure is at 20 when warm, and 40 at cold. plus, the RPM when fully warmed up is always at 500 at idle, and drops to 300 from time to time. this prompted me to search for a solution, and my mechanic friend did the work, but nothing fixed the problem until we discovered the sludge problem. I did purchase a 2 year warranty from AUL for powertrain. I don't know how to deal with this problem. What would you do? should I buy a new engine if my warranty pays towards it, or have him rebuild this one?
oh, forgot to mention, we already pulled down the pick-up tube, and cleaned the sludge in the pan, and cleaned the screen, and placed a new gasket for oil pick up tube. changed the sending unit. nothing helps the low oil pressure.
Wow this stinks, with only 155k miles it makes me wonder if the swapped the gauge cluster? It takes a long time to turn oil into thick sludge.
The oil pressure is normal in the majority of the LS engines I’ve seen and the factory idle is set at 500-550 rpm. Stumbling idle could be a dirty MAF
I’m really shocked this has turned into a fiasco.
Honestly, 20-25# is a very common oil pressure. Does your mechanic have access to Alldata? I’m curious what the listed oil pressure is for a 2005 LS?
So did it work
Worked great but if you don’t check the catch can it can fill up with oil and ph ET oil get pulled into the intake.
Always make the hose go straight up from the PCV so gravity helps. JD
Can someone please help me!! I have a 2005 cadillac escalade. Has the 5.3l engine. I have an oil leak drip above starter, and i have an oil leak above oil filter. They both drip the same amount of oil. I've changed sensors, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, oil pressure sensor. Transmission inspection hole is dry. The plate inside is dry. Not rear main seals. Not sensors. Wtf could it be??
The leak could be the valley pan with oil running down the back of the block to each side. Does the 2005 still have the rear cam sensor?
The only other thing I can think of are the valve covers which you’ve changed. JD
@@HeadFlowInc Yes no leak. Could you see the leak drip down if it was the valley pan?
@@chrisg1364 There should be a trail, top to bottom.
There’s only a few places the oil can come from. Get a clean White rag and wipe the back of the block to find the origin point.
It almost has to be from one of the sensor holes or a leaking block plug. They sell dye you can put in the oil that glows under a black light, try it. JD
Its that an fuel filter?
Yes but it’s not needed on the passenger side valve cover vent. The issue is splash oil being pulled through the PCV valve up to the intake manifold especially on the early truck LS engines.
Later driver side valve covers had an improved baffle setup. Running an oil separator does work but you’ll need to empty it regularly. Or it helps if you run the vacuum hose to the PCV at a 90° angle/vertical and add a loop so oil has to fight gravity to reach the intake manifold. JD
@@HeadFlowInc @ how about on driver side
Why not just route both valve covers to 1 catch can with a breather and plug off both intake ports and just not route back to the intake at all?
Once I went turbo on the new 4.8 build I set it up with an open air vented catch can with -10 or 5/8” hose coming from each valve cover to the can; ie PCV delete it’s perfect! 3+ years later I’ve never had any oil in the catch can. JD
@@HeadFlowInc so would you recommend that setup for an NA build? Using a vented catch can that is
I would use it to avoid adding oil inside the intake manifolds.
Hipothesee! Nice!😂 This is nonsense! The side you put that fuel filter on (lol) flows from throttle to valve cover to make up the crankcase air that is drawn out by the PVC which is on the other valve cover. They're called oil catch cans genius🙃
Love ya love your show, thanks for the kind words! Have fun be safe! JD
Finally somebody making sense!!! Of course, this is a suction side and has nothing to do with anything!
I did a catch can for the driver side and that thing would fill up like every 3 days! Wtf
Yeah I never saw a single drop from the passenger side but the drivers side would fill up all the time!
Tip: You can route the hose to the PCV valve so it goes straight up, add as much as possible to make it harder for the oil to climb/pulled out.
I currently run two open 5/8” lines without a PCV to an open breather catch can and it’s always dry. JD
I got a 4.3 that uses an orfice instead of a pcv valve. I know for a fact it consumes oil through there. I wish gm wasn't so cheap sometimes
theol31 Definitely add a separator; I agree GM should be responsible! Even the EPA would be interested since it adds to pollution.
Catch can!
james guralski Yep catch can no PCV now! 👍
Why can’t I loop the PCs valve with passenger side valve cover then Fred air inlet to the throttle body
I would not loop them together unless they’re connected to a vented catch can setup. Looking together without venting essentially plugs off or eliminates function.
The hose from the Pass side cover to the throttle body is supposed to be the fresh air source but isn’t very affective but does work. JD
drill a few extra holes in the baffle and enlarge the one by the pvc
keeps intake lubricated
kc0lif 😂 what’s interesting is how GM made the entries to the intake runners at the roof of the intake! This roof entry to the runners allows more than 1Qt to accumulate without getting sucked into the engine...🤔
@@HeadFlowInc seafoam spray down the vacuum tube seems clean them pretty good.
So what the hell happened?
LS engine suck oil through the PCV valve filling the intake I’ve ended up putting a separator on it the separator can work but you have to remember to drain it all right I’ll just suck oil even worse. There’s no real reason I have the small filter on the passenger cover nothing ever comes out of it.
@@HeadFlowInc Hey, you learned something about your engine by putting that filter on. A good experiment. If the filter ever oils up, it will indicate some impressive blow by. :0
That is the clean side. Wrong. That filter does nothing.
You shouldn't need a filter or catch can on a naturally aspirated engine, my 5.7 litre LS1 engine doesn't have much of that problem,maybe because Holden ordered them with the LS6 intake from 2000 onwards,even then,yours doesn't have the breather tube barb towards the back of that valve rocker cover which mine has.
Mine has a hose because the rubber parts deteriorated,it links the 2 valve rocker covers together to where the PCV valve port grommet is then it tees off into a PCV valve which is located near the right hand path of the fuel rail, it is then plumbed into the inlet manifold where the throttle body bolts onto.
If there's no oil sitting the MAF tube then I don't worry about it,in the LS intakes I think that oil inevitably builds up over time but the fine oil mist or crankcase vapours is meant to get burnt off in the combustion chamber then filtered out through the catalytic converters.
no you don't need that stuff on a stock LS nor a so called updated valve cover drill extra holes in the baffle on the drivers side valve cover and enlarge the one by the pvc
Guess you found out its not coming from there
James Holbrook It was coming through the PCV hose on the driver side valve cover 100%. I think this engine needed new valve seals and at 315k+ miles the ring seal wasn’t the best.
Ya i mean you can get the motors cheap enough it would not be that expensive or a huge deal to go thru one with seals and gaskets maybe hone the cylinders and new rings I mean thats probably not going to 100% fix that problem but should definitely be manageable since you already have a catch can
James Holbrook Check out my 4.8 build, it’s been setup for a Turbo in the future! Thanks for watching! 👍👍
I think i have seen most of it
James Holbrook I’ve finished the 2nd rebuild of the 8.8 got it installed. No video yet but I’ve driven it 200+ miles so far so good!
An it's a 04
If your going to make informational videos you should at least understand what your talking about . You have the flow backwards . The hose on the passenger side is the clean air INTO the engine . It is filtered by the air filter . Pull your intake hose off the front of the throttle body and look at the small hole at the top . There is No vacuum on this hose ,it is just ported through the throttle body to the filtered air in FRONT of the throttle blade . The oil in the intake is coming from the driver side valve cover being designed wrong . There is a new one available . Or you can use a catch can on the driver (vac) side .
OnTheLake I’m well aware of what I’m doing and what hose goes where thanks.
You’re entitled to your opinion, good luck on your build if you have one. JD
If you were aware why did you think there was vacuum on the inlet hose and put a filter on filtered air.
OnTheLake The hose from the passenger valve cover to the throttle body sees a Venturi effect vacuum via plenum draw and high speed air entering. See, sometimes there’s more to something than meets the eye. 😉
OnTheLake It can become an issue with crankcase pressure not having an easy way to get out, it’s a locked affect. It’s all good! 👍
Wouldnt you agree there is more vacuum on the back side of the throttle plate than the front . If so then understand air comes in through the main air filter box through the small hole in the throttle body into the passenger valve cover through the crankcase out the driver side valve cover into the pvc hose and on to the the intake (back side of throttle blade). Never will there be more "venturi" effect on the inlet hose than Vacuum effect .
So much of this is redundancy.
🙄
Dude please speed up the presentation, BORING comes to mind!