A Benchy is designed for its original size. At such massive dimensions bridges and also overhangs are so wide that noticeable sagging can be expected. You would either have to add supports or try if much slower briding speeds at max cooling can help already sufficiently.
Thanks for filming this. Its great to see large prints run off this as it was intended! I’m still waiting for my preorder email for my XL - in the meantime I’m living my XL printing through you!
For what it is, the print looks fantastic. The layer shift was inevitable, as you said, due to the yanking on the hotend... something shifted slightly. And the overhangs were designed for an original size benchy, so they're not all that bad considering how large you went. Well done!
@@imst4722 Homing is not a good idea. Because microswitch has a 0.01-0.025mm deviation. You may just endup with another small layer shift. Actually, the nextrudor can open the idler to release the filament, should not require hard pull on it
@アルヴィン if you've seen the miragec video on extrusion inaccuracy due to off center bmg gears, the issue is based on a variance of .01mm. Chances are you'd never notice a difference. The xl uses sensorless homing form my understanding which might be a bit less accurate but based on the mk3s using crash protection to continue a print after re-homing, you can get a pretty good idea of the accuracy.
the shift can be seen as you pull the filament. Re run the test with the tweaks needed and perhaps just a little less infill so it will print with one roll???
It's possible that in removing the filament you moved the head, even a little. This could be a nice bug file, since the head must have enough current to avoid such an unwanted movement
I ran into the same problem when doing a filament change during the print. Took me a bit because it wasn't clear how the idler opens. There was a latch that flips up, then you can flip down the door facing the front of the printer. I don't know why there isn't a clear picture or video of doing this on Prusa's website. They only show the idler open, not how to get there.
Are there not command buttons on the Nextruder that you could programme? Normally in this scenario if the extruder still has a grip on the filament then you'd want to reverse the extruder to release it. Does the firmware on the screen offer any options that would allow you to do this? Appreciate this is a new printer. Failing that, opening the idler door if there is such a thing on the XL should unlock the extruder tension and allow you to release the filament by hand? Less moving the toolhead when you have it paused will result in better prints unless it rehomes X and Y after you have replaced the filament (unusual in Prusas?). The printer wouldn't know where the X and Y axis was if you moved it by hand during a pause.
The stuck filament is an interesting take on a common hardship. So this happens on my Mini when the filament unloads (waiting for a change overnight) and it kinda gets stuck in the tube after the extruder gears and cools. In my case just a little force pulls it out pretty easy because the gears are *right there* where you load the filament. In the XL's case the extruder is miles away from the loading tube...so you're only choice for any reasonable direct force is to remove the tube like you did. This kind of makes me realize that really sucks with the XL and something that's not a big deal for my Mini, will be a bigger deal (and potentially cause the layer shift problem) for the XL which is supposed to make life easier. Hm.
Right! Doing this on the mini is why I even thought to unhook it at the other end. But since I had already clicked that it unloaded, there was no way to "retry" on this huge print. I'll be more careful on that button from here out. I did have another one run out without issues. So it just happened on this one so far. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting I wonder if the nozzle cooled down after you clicked okay. Not sure if there is a way to reheat the nozzle without lying to the printer on the current state of the loaded filament. Ie maybe insert new filament as far as you can to satisfy all the sensors, finish the prompts to change the filement, then immediately pause the print and reload the filament.
That's massive! From what I'm seeing, that's a nice printer. I've also made the mistake of telling the printer that the filament came out correctly when it had not. Bit frightening to feel it stuck in there. It makes sense that there was some sagging, since the overhangs are very large. I would, personally, do a single color print if I were to do a large benchy like that, to avoid the rainbow issue you had. Thank you for being one of the first to talk about this machine!
Great test! Just found your channel and look forward to learning more about printing. Don't think I'd ever try printing a benchy so big, but cool to watch. :D
As the filament sensor is on the side of the XL, you should just push in the new filament. The printer should detect the new filament and you will have to push the new filament in until the nextruder grabs the new filament. I have done so several times on a MK3S.
Yes but the tube on the XL is almost 4 feet long and I would worry about it not catching quite right and leaving a funny line. Not any worse than what I did tho! Thanks!
The layer shift at filament change is a bug in the Prusa microcode. I had exactly the same bug on a MK3 here recently. The printer needs to retest the x/y location of the head before continuing with the print after a filament change. This because manual filament changes regularly have filament jams, as you did, and can be expected to need excessive force to fix, thus causing a shift the print head and ruining the print. Anyway, I love this big benchy test.
Running out of filament is never great but I claim this one. But at that point I was too curious to not let it finish. I need to be more careful. Thanks!
@@shelbyseelbach9568 true. But I did click that yes, it had unloaded successfully. Who knows if I had said no, if it still would've been jammed tho. 🤷♂️
My bridges on my mki3s were horrible had to speed them up in slicer like x2 speed you got to do a bridge test to get your printer dialed. On my slicer profiles I had to set different speed for different nozzles diameters .025,.04,etc
Love the tests, but was really hoping to hear the sound of the printer as it was printing some of the layers to compare to the small benchy. Trying to get a sense of the difference in noise
@@tada3dprinting I really liked the way you did it with the regular benchy video, giving a sense of what the first layer sounds like and then the second layer when it speeds up. something in the middle would be nice too. I know with larger prints it would make a longer video, but you could put chapters so people can skip it if they want. Though really I'd love to hear your personal experience with noise compared to your MK3 (in stealth and normal mode) when printing smaller vs larger prints. I only have room for one printer and looking to replace my current MK2.5S with either the XL or the MK4. So your experience is exactly what I've been searching for. If possible I'd LOVE a video where you go over quality of life stuff you really like about your XL vs your MK3. And then any minor or major annoyances with the XL vs the MK3. Obviously the loadcell is a huge quality of life improvement, but anything else that might be unique to the XL? Thanks for the reply and really appreciate your videos!
@@tada3dprinting Awesome! Thank you and I look forward to that! There are times where I've wanted or needed a larger build volume, so that's why I'm trying to see if the XL would work for me. So I'm not as concerned with the noise of larger prints (but would be nice to know) since it's not something I would do often, but I've definitely felt the limitations of even just the build plate size of my MK2.5S If printing "MK3" size prints is about as loud as an MK3/4 I can probably live with that. On my MK2.5 I really only notice when it does some fast movements. Fan noise is a factor too since I don't really notice that right now.
Like this funny stuff you did and yes, the layer shift is just because you are not friendly to your extruder at all :D The sagging is pretty good compared to the large distanziert at this print! Overall good quality.
This (excellent) channel appears to have the only Prusa XL ever seen in the wild. You should print a unicorn, because that what the XL appears to be. I wonder when Prusa will ship the SECOND of these XL units. :-)
So I noticed at the beginning when it started it extruded some filament that was hanging off the bed. Was that an accident or is that how it intentionally extrudes at the start of a print?
It does the purge line like this everytime. I don't know if all XLs do it but i assume they do. I thought it looked odd at first. But now I like it because I can grab the purge line without touching the bed. If I can pop and slide the print, I don't even have to clean the bed in between prints. Thanks!
Awesome---love these videos! Would love to see a normal benchy size at highest quality settings (and maybe a smaller nozzle like .4 or .25?) and see what kind of close detail it's capable of.
I don't know if they have offered a pre-order on more toolheads by themselves for this printer yet but I will purchase when they do. And I have another 5 toolhead semi-assembled on order. Thanks!
that is such an absurd benchy, but I also cannot help but notice the size of the hole in the smoke stack. I wonder how close that is to the size of the threaded rods used for lamps, Just a dumb novelty idea of how to put that mega benchy to use. a little table lamp by a bed or on a dresser.
Seems wild that they didn’t include a filament tensioner so you can remove the filament from the direct drive easily that filament switch looked difficult
I have run out of filament 3 times so far. The others were smooth and barely showed. This one that I was recording was the one it decided to give me trouble. But yes just swapping filament is annoying! Thanks!
In regards to the filament transitioning abruptly from green to orange: they certainly were the exact same spool from the same brand. But, like you said in the video, the color that starts the spool doesn't end the spool, so clearly the manufacturer (somewhat understandably) didn't account for the possibility of someone printing something that takes more than one spool. A (kind of silly) way to fix this would be to take the cut tool in PrusaSlicer and take the same mega-benchy file, but cut it horizontally right around the point on the hull of the benchy that the color first became blue/green, and then slice that with the same settings (but no top layers) to see how much filament you need to shave off of the new spool before you get to the first instance of green again. Then, just print something else with the filament that will use a similar amount of filament to the amount you've just calculated, and BOOM--you have a maybe half-decent transition to the new spool. This solution is silly because unless you perfectly planned to do it from the start, you'll be stuck waiting for your other printer to finish printing all the unwanted parts of the new spool before you can continue the BIG BENCHY. Anyways, awesome video. Keep it up!
If you find a "fix" for the over-hangs, you should try printing a low poly tyranitar off thingivers. I printed one at 500% scale and wanted to do no supports to test my modded print head. Still took 5 attempts.
merci pour les retours, effectivement c'est un problème pour la repise de l'impression. Encore une fois rapporté au prix de l'imprimante, il y a de quoi faire la tête. Impatient de voir la suite Thank you for the feedback, indeed it is a problem for the print repise. Once again, for the price of the printer, there is enough to make the head. Can't wait to see the rest
Yikes on the removal - I've done that with a mk3s. Isn't there's a double lever to release the filament or is that only the mk4? The layers low down look very smart - the overhangs in the anchor hole and cabin don't look great. The layer shift is kinda your fault reefing on the filament and lifting the whole pinter. hahaha. Strong determined woman!! must have filament out!! So maybe a redo with that 2kg filament.
@@tada3dprinting - Looks like the linked videos disappeared. On prusa3d > help > prusa xl > articles > regular print maintenance (xl) and RUclips > nero 3d > Prusa Mk4 Unboxing and Setup > 25mins 10secs time
What was the infill type and density on this. I am printing large print off my p1p lately and little change in the setting does reduce filament usage alot. I reduced my print from 841g to 475g with just pattern changes in slicer
@@tada3dprinting You can also narrow down the extrusion width of infill in the advanced tab. Makes a huge difference, without actually changing the density. I print infill with 0,48mm widt and 0,60mm nozzle. Works beautifully, saves 25% of material as said, without sacrificing top layer support.
@@tada3dprinting Really great way to reduce plastic needed. You can also increase the infill speed after that, since the amount of extruded plastic lowers, and your max speed therefore increases
No it's even more top-heavy than the smaller ones. I did a giveaway when I hit 1,000 subscribers and the person that won this lives in Ireland. Thanks!
I should have taken a picture of what the panel said. I think it just told me "remove filament". I even clicked the ok button to see if it would realize it was stuck. Nothing. But it was on me. I had told it that the filament had unloaded successfully and it hadn't.
@@tada3dprinting Still, if it is stuck = is engaged with the gears, and you have confirmed that it has been removed, you can always go into the remove filament menu and start over. You can do that on a MK3, don't think it's changed.
These Prusa printers are way too expensive for what they are. Like 2000 dollars for a kit you have to partly assemble yourself ? I know it has a big build volume but c'mon guys, that printer really isn't worth 2000 dollars !
It's really just putting the toolhead on. And I'm glad they ship it this way because a 36" tall box would be a pain to move. I think its a decent price for the bed size.
I know you put a lot of effort into this 3D print, but I noticed that it used a large amount of filament. Did you have a specific purpose in mind for this print? There are so many useful things that can be printed on such an expensive printer, and I'm sure the community would love to help you find some cool projects which have a meaning. Maybe prosthetics, educational models or whatever.
Here's my two cents. We would probably agree that one of the biggest problems with 3D printing is the amount of plastic waste generated by people printing useless trinkets. Back when the RepRap was first developed, the goal was not to simply create more plastic junk, but to offer people a way to have their very own mini factory right on their desk, which could provide them with functional, useful items. That was a liberator actually, not yet another entertaining gadget. While we now have access to more advanced printers and exciting new materials, I propose that we go back to the original RepRap spirit and use our printing capabilities to create meaningful, useful items that can truly make a difference in people's daily lives. We must remember that there is a real cost to all of the plastic waste that we generate, and it's not just an environmental cost, but a human one as well. That's why I believe it's so important that we work together with the whole 3D printing community to create prints that have a real purpose and value, rather than simply using our printers to churn out more useless trinkets. With the help of the Prusa XL and other advanced printers, we have the ability to create truly remarkable things that can benefit individuals and communities alike. Let's focus on using our skills and abilities to inspire people to make positive changes in the world by printing items that have a genuine meaning and value.
It's nice to see your channel grow so quickly😊 you're still the only one uploading actual test footage of this printer!
Thanks so much!
Holy guacamole, this is the TITANIC of all Benchies⚓😱👍
Haha yeah that's a good name! Thanks!
A Benchy is designed for its original size. At such massive dimensions bridges and also overhangs are so wide that noticeable sagging can be expected. You would either have to add supports or try if much slower briding speeds at max cooling can help already sufficiently.
Yes I agree. I just wanted to see what it would do. Definitely needs more work. Thanks!
Exactly. The result will be likely better with PrusaSlicer 2.6.0 (slowdown on overhangs and extra perimeters on overhangs).
@@1000gib does this version of slicer have the XL? I ended up updating to 2.6.2 when I got the XL. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting Yes.
Thanks for filming this. Its great to see large prints run off this as it was intended! I’m still waiting for my preorder email for my XL - in the meantime I’m living my XL printing through you!
Thanks so much!
@ManuelDescayola not heard anything yet sadly :( have fun with yours when it arrives!!!
@ManuelDescayola placed it November last year with a dual head. Maybe santaclaus will be kind!
That’s insane, I’m actually impressed how well it did with all the overhangs etc at that size!
Yes when you factor in the size, it's not bad! Thanks!
I would not print one, but it's very cool to see someone else try it :D
Thanks!
For what it is, the print looks fantastic. The layer shift was inevitable, as you said, due to the yanking on the hotend... something shifted slightly. And the overhangs were designed for an original size benchy, so they're not all that bad considering how large you went. Well done!
Thank you!
it really should home x and y before resuming the print (after human intervention)
@@imst4722 that would resolve layer shift I would think! Thanks!
@@imst4722 Homing is not a good idea. Because microswitch has a 0.01-0.025mm deviation. You may just endup with another small layer shift. Actually, the nextrudor can open the idler to release the filament, should not require hard pull on it
@アルヴィン if you've seen the miragec video on extrusion inaccuracy due to off center bmg gears, the issue is based on a variance of .01mm. Chances are you'd never notice a difference. The xl uses sensorless homing form my understanding which might be a bit less accurate but based on the mk3s using crash protection to continue a print after re-homing, you can get a pretty good idea of the accuracy.
the shift can be seen as you pull the filament. Re run the test with the tweaks needed and perhaps just a little less infill so it will print with one roll???
Yeah I almost ran it a hair smaller to be on one roll but I decided to push it.
Nice. That thing is huge!
These videos are amazing thank you for putting em up
Thanks so much!
Yay. You are now officially insane. I won't print a benchy but I will print a Lioness as soon my XL arrives.
Haha. Oooh yeah the lion is awesome Gigantic. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting I love printing the Lioness from Thingiverse model thing:182359 I have over a hundred printed. I like this model so much.
I'll definitely check it out. Is it different the regular lion with the mane? Thanks!
It's possible that in removing the filament you moved the head, even a little. This could be a nice bug file, since the head must have enough current to avoid such an unwanted movement
I'm sure it was from me. Thanks!
very funny, i always wanted to print a huge benchy but never did. haha thx for that.
Thank you!
It is cool to see you test these things, thanks for this content. Would love to see a bust of some sort.
Oh yeah that would be fun! Thanks!
I ran into the same problem when doing a filament change during the print. Took me a bit because it wasn't clear how the idler opens. There was a latch that flips up, then you can flip down the door facing the front of the printer. I don't know why there isn't a clear picture or video of doing this on Prusa's website. They only show the idler open, not how to get there.
Same! I made it more difficult than needed. Thanks!
Are there not command buttons on the Nextruder that you could programme? Normally in this scenario if the extruder still has a grip on the filament then you'd want to reverse the extruder to release it. Does the firmware on the screen offer any options that would allow you to do this? Appreciate this is a new printer.
Failing that, opening the idler door if there is such a thing on the XL should unlock the extruder tension and allow you to release the filament by hand? Less moving the toolhead when you have it paused will result in better prints unless it rehomes X and Y after you have replaced the filament (unusual in Prusas?). The printer wouldn't know where the X and Y axis was if you moved it by hand during a pause.
The stuck filament is an interesting take on a common hardship. So this happens on my Mini when the filament unloads (waiting for a change overnight) and it kinda gets stuck in the tube after the extruder gears and cools. In my case just a little force pulls it out pretty easy because the gears are *right there* where you load the filament. In the XL's case the extruder is miles away from the loading tube...so you're only choice for any reasonable direct force is to remove the tube like you did. This kind of makes me realize that really sucks with the XL and something that's not a big deal for my Mini, will be a bigger deal (and potentially cause the layer shift problem) for the XL which is supposed to make life easier. Hm.
Right! Doing this on the mini is why I even thought to unhook it at the other end. But since I had already clicked that it unloaded, there was no way to "retry" on this huge print. I'll be more careful on that button from here out. I did have another one run out without issues. So it just happened on this one so far. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting I wonder if the nozzle cooled down after you clicked okay. Not sure if there is a way to reheat the nozzle without lying to the printer on the current state of the loaded filament. Ie maybe insert new filament as far as you can to satisfy all the sensors, finish the prompts to change the filement, then immediately pause the print and reload the filament.
That's massive! From what I'm seeing, that's a nice printer. I've also made the mistake of telling the printer that the filament came out correctly when it had not. Bit frightening to feel it stuck in there. It makes sense that there was some sagging, since the overhangs are very large. I would, personally, do a single color print if I were to do a large benchy like that, to avoid the rainbow issue you had. Thank you for being one of the first to talk about this machine!
Great test! Just found your channel and look forward to learning more about printing. Don't think I'd ever try printing a benchy so big, but cool to watch. :D
Thanks so much!
Great video, just subscribed! Looking foward to see what you make next :)
Thank you!
As the filament sensor is on the side of the XL, you should just push in the new filament. The printer should detect the new filament and you will have to push the new filament in until the nextruder grabs the new filament. I have done so several times on a MK3S.
Yes but the tube on the XL is almost 4 feet long and I would worry about it not catching quite right and leaving a funny line. Not any worse than what I did tho! Thanks!
I hope down the road some tweaks can be made to the printer for fast printing times after all it is a core XY
Same! They say when input shaping comes out, it will speed up. We will see!
The layer shift at filament change is a bug in the Prusa microcode. I had exactly the same bug on a MK3 here recently. The printer needs to retest the x/y location of the head before continuing with the print after a filament change. This because manual filament changes regularly have filament jams, as you did, and can be expected to need excessive force to fix, thus causing a shift the print head and ruining the print. Anyway, I love this big benchy test.
Classic user error
Running out of filament is never great but I claim this one. But at that point I was too curious to not let it finish. I need to be more careful. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting Not at all, you didn't cause the initial failure to actually eject the filament.
@@shelbyseelbach9568 true. But I did click that yes, it had unloaded successfully. Who knows if I had said no, if it still would've been jammed tho. 🤷♂️
Finally a vid that I could watch on mobile😂
Wow that stuck well and with no brim, I'm surprised there was no warping from the bed
Yes I am too! It did well! Especially for such a long print!
Overall, its an awesome 3D Print. Congratulations 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻😎
Thank you!
These are the small things in the menu that Prusa should really change. That already gets on my nerves with the MK3s+.
Thanks for this nice Video.
My bridges on my mki3s were horrible had to speed them up in slicer like x2 speed you got to do a bridge test to get your printer dialed. On my slicer profiles I had to set different speed for different nozzles diameters .025,.04,etc
Good to know! Thanks!
Love the tests, but was really hoping to hear the sound of the printer as it was printing some of the layers to compare to the small benchy. Trying to get a sense of the difference in noise
I'll keep that in mind. Are you thinking when it starts or midway?
@@tada3dprinting I really liked the way you did it with the regular benchy video, giving a sense of what the first layer sounds like and then the second layer when it speeds up. something in the middle would be nice too. I know with larger prints it would make a longer video, but you could put chapters so people can skip it if they want.
Though really I'd love to hear your personal experience with noise compared to your MK3 (in stealth and normal mode) when printing smaller vs larger prints. I only have room for one printer and looking to replace my current MK2.5S with either the XL or the MK4. So your experience is exactly what I've been searching for.
If possible I'd LOVE a video where you go over quality of life stuff you really like about your XL vs your MK3. And then any minor or major annoyances with the XL vs the MK3. Obviously the loadcell is a huge quality of life improvement, but anything else that might be unique to the XL?
Thanks for the reply and really appreciate your videos!
@@notsunil sounds good! I'll work on this. I would say if you don't need the build size or the toolchanger of the xl, then MK4 will be a great fit.
@@tada3dprinting Awesome! Thank you and I look forward to that! There are times where I've wanted or needed a larger build volume, so that's why I'm trying to see if the XL would work for me. So I'm not as concerned with the noise of larger prints (but would be nice to know) since it's not something I would do often, but I've definitely felt the limitations of even just the build plate size of my MK2.5S
If printing "MK3" size prints is about as loud as an MK3/4 I can probably live with that. On my MK2.5 I really only notice when it does some fast movements. Fan noise is a factor too since I don't really notice that right now.
Like this funny stuff you did and yes, the layer shift is just because you are not friendly to your extruder at all :D
The sagging is pretty good compared to the large distanziert at this print! Overall good quality.
That's pretty cool actually! Some small tweaks in the slicer and you could get an improved result no doubt.. thanks for sharing!
Thank you!
I wanna try to print something like this when I get my Prusa xl!
You'll love the size!
My grandmonsters wound love one of these.
It's a pretty awesome size! Thanks!
Love the XL videos
Thank you!
This (excellent) channel appears to have the only Prusa XL ever seen in the wild. You should print a unicorn, because that what the XL appears to be.
I wonder when Prusa will ship the SECOND of these XL units. :-)
Haha I like that idea! Thanks!
2024?
I need definetly a 16“ benchy😍😍😍
So I noticed at the beginning when it started it extruded some filament that was hanging off the bed. Was that an accident or is that how it intentionally extrudes at the start of a print?
It does the purge line like this everytime. I don't know if all XLs do it but i assume they do. I thought it looked odd at first. But now I like it because I can grab the purge line without touching the bed. If I can pop and slide the print, I don't even have to clean the bed in between prints. Thanks!
Awesome---love these videos! Would love to see a normal benchy size at highest quality settings (and maybe a smaller nozzle like .4 or .25?) and see what kind of close detail it's capable of.
Yes, I need to order some more nozzle sizes. Right now I just have .6 on the XL. Thanks!
Do you have a multi-tool upgrade on order? That might be the eventual solution to the issues of running out of filament mid print.
I don't know if they have offered a pre-order on more toolheads by themselves for this printer yet but I will purchase when they do. And I have another 5 toolhead semi-assembled on order. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting awesome!
that is such an absurd benchy, but I also cannot help but notice the size of the hole in the smoke stack. I wonder how close that is to the size of the threaded rods used for lamps, Just a dumb novelty idea of how to put that mega benchy to use. a little table lamp by a bed or on a dresser.
Yeah that might work. Thanks!
I think it looks cool
Thank you!
Seems wild that they didn’t include a filament tensioner so you can remove the filament from the direct drive easily that filament switch looked difficult
I have run out of filament 3 times so far. The others were smooth and barely showed. This one that I was recording was the one it decided to give me trouble. But yes just swapping filament is annoying! Thanks!
Is removing and loading filament giving u problems often like it did there?
This was the only time I had trouble. I am careful to check that it did unload correctly before clicking yes. Thanks!
In regards to the filament transitioning abruptly from green to orange: they certainly were the exact same spool from the same brand. But, like you said in the video, the color that starts the spool doesn't end the spool, so clearly the manufacturer (somewhat understandably) didn't account for the possibility of someone printing something that takes more than one spool.
A (kind of silly) way to fix this would be to take the cut tool in PrusaSlicer and take the same mega-benchy file, but cut it horizontally right around the point on the hull of the benchy that the color first became blue/green, and then slice that with the same settings (but no top layers) to see how much filament you need to shave off of the new spool before you get to the first instance of green again. Then, just print something else with the filament that will use a similar amount of filament to the amount you've just calculated, and BOOM--you have a maybe half-decent transition to the new spool. This solution is silly because unless you perfectly planned to do it from the start, you'll be stuck waiting for your other printer to finish printing all the unwanted parts of the new spool before you can continue the BIG BENCHY.
Anyways, awesome video. Keep it up!
Never thought of that. Thanks!
If you find a "fix" for the over-hangs, you should try printing a low poly tyranitar off thingivers. I printed one at 500% scale and wanted to do no supports to test my modded print head. Still took 5 attempts.
Yeah I am sure it's possible to fine-tune it and get it looking nicer. But I'm not sure I have the patience for it right now. Thanks!
merci pour les retours, effectivement c'est un problème pour la repise de l'impression. Encore une fois rapporté au prix de l'imprimante, il y a de quoi faire la tête.
Impatient de voir la suite
Thank you for the feedback, indeed it is a problem for the print repise. Once again, for the price of the printer, there is enough to make the head.
Can't wait to see the rest
Thank you!
Love the colors!
Thank you!
Great Print !!!
Subscribed! That’s awesome.
Thank you!
Serious yanking there 😅. Maybe some variable layer hight for the roof next time.
How fast can it print an original-size Benchy?
On my last video I compare stock profiles for different layer heights. Thanks!
2:40
**sweats in $2 000 machine**
Haha
Can't wait for Bambu XL going to destroy everybody else :D
Is there one coming?
Yikes on the removal - I've done that with a mk3s. Isn't there's a double lever to release the filament or is that only the mk4?
The layers low down look very smart - the overhangs in the anchor hole and cabin don't look great. The layer shift is kinda your fault reefing on the filament and lifting the whole pinter. hahaha. Strong determined woman!! must have filament out!! So maybe a redo with that 2kg filament.
Yeah it was definitely my fault. You know, maybe there is an easier way like you describe. You would think there is. I'll look. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting - Looks like the linked videos disappeared.
On prusa3d > help > prusa xl > articles > regular print maintenance (xl)
and RUclips > nero 3d > Prusa Mk4 Unboxing and Setup > 25mins 10secs time
@@75keg75 ok great thanks!
Nice, looks like Sunlu Rainbow filament?
Yes "Rainbow 01". Are there more than one color of Rainbow?
What was the infill type and density on this. I am printing large print off my p1p lately and little change in the setting does reduce filament usage alot. I reduced my print from 841g to 475g with just pattern changes in slicer
I went with 5% infill on this size benchy. Yes I agree it makes a lot of difference! Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting You can also narrow down the extrusion width of infill in the advanced tab. Makes a huge difference, without actually changing the density. I print infill with 0,48mm widt and 0,60mm nozzle. Works beautifully, saves 25% of material as said, without sacrificing top layer support.
@@sandervanvoxel3d oh that's good to know!
@@tada3dprinting Really great way to reduce plastic needed. You can also increase the infill speed after that, since the amount of extruded plastic lowers, and your max speed therefore increases
Bet you can't wait for multi-tool heads :)
You're right! Altho I purchased this and the 5 toolhead. So I might get skipped when they send out the 2 toolheads. Thanks!
Going to have to start buying 2kg spools. Looks good (other than the shift).
Thanks! Yeah going to have to!
Does it float? :))
Oooo I should see! Thanks!
ok does it float where u going to put that
No it's even more top-heavy than the smaller ones. I did a giveaway when I hit 1,000 subscribers and the person that won this lives in Ireland. Thanks!
The prusa interface is great until you accidentally click the wrong option
Yeah I wish there was a back button!
Does the benchy float?
It floats upside down which doesn't really count. But this one floats - ruclips.net/video/nAeLsI3fUwk/видео.htmlsi=_fiDCIgxatSb3WMq
Nice layer shift 😅
Still very nice print, and i do not like benchies, just to much of them! 😃
Are those 1KG spools?
Yes 1kg spools. It ended up being about 1150 grams. Thank you!
Where is Russel Crowe?
can it sail or is it too top heavy? 🙂
I have a "short" video recorded where I test it out. It'll upload tomorrow at 10 am central time. Thanks!
I think you should print an Ant next time ! 🐜
Haha! Great idea Ants! I'll see what I can find. Thanks!
you live and learn :)
Which nozzle size was used?
0.6
Looks like you need supports on the windows and arch. That's not the printers fault. You can't bridge that far.
Yeah I was just curious what would happen that large and thought maybe with a large nozzle it would help. Oh well. Thanks!
Is it me ok the PrusaXL is really problematic!?!
It's quirky. My single toolhead is actually less quirky than the 5 toolhead. Thanks!
Next time user "remove filament" from the user panel menu
I should have taken a picture of what the panel said. I think it just told me "remove filament". I even clicked the ok button to see if it would realize it was stuck. Nothing. But it was on me. I had told it that the filament had unloaded successfully and it hadn't.
@@tada3dprinting Still, if it is stuck = is engaged with the gears, and you have confirmed that it has been removed, you can always go into the remove filament menu and start over. You can do that on a MK3, don't think it's changed.
Nice paper weight 😂
lol must be your first printer getting out the tools like that lol
Niceee! =D
Thank you!
@@tada3dprinting 😁🤟
Best quality ahahhaa
Could you donate this to a kids charity?
I actually gave it away to my subscribers. But email me at tada3dprinting@gmail.com with details. I have plenty of other prints to send. Thanks!
BIG.... Nice one.
Thanks!
These Prusa printers are way too expensive for what they are. Like 2000 dollars for a kit you have to partly assemble yourself ? I know it has a big build volume but c'mon guys, that printer really isn't worth 2000 dollars !
It's really just putting the toolhead on. And I'm glad they ship it this way because a 36" tall box would be a pain to move. I think its a decent price for the bed size.
You have another toolchanger in mind that is a better value?
@@sasca854 Creality CR-M4
@@JonasDM46 that doesn't have a tool changer. Just a large bedslinger from creality...
@JonasDM46 isn’t a Voron 2 similar price? That only a single extruder yet XL can get 5 tools heads.
I know you put a lot of effort into this 3D print, but I noticed that it used a large amount of filament. Did you have a specific purpose in mind for this print? There are so many useful things that can be printed on such an expensive printer, and I'm sure the community would love to help you find some cool projects which have a meaning. Maybe prosthetics, educational models or whatever.
I just wanted to see how a benchy would look maxed out in the bed. But yes I have other prints in mind next. And I'm open to suggestions.
Here's my two cents. We would probably agree that one of the biggest problems with 3D printing is the amount of plastic waste generated by people printing useless trinkets. Back when the RepRap was first developed, the goal was not to simply create more plastic junk, but to offer people a way to have their very own mini factory right on their desk, which could provide them with functional, useful items. That was a liberator actually, not yet another entertaining gadget.
While we now have access to more advanced printers and exciting new materials, I propose that we go back to the original RepRap spirit and use our printing capabilities to create meaningful, useful items that can truly make a difference in people's daily lives. We must remember that there is a real cost to all of the plastic waste that we generate, and it's not just an environmental cost, but a human one as well. That's why I believe it's so important that we work together with the whole 3D printing community to create prints that have a real purpose and value, rather than simply using our printers to churn out more useless trinkets.
With the help of the Prusa XL and other advanced printers, we have the ability to create truly remarkable things that can benefit individuals and communities alike. Let's focus on using our skills and abilities to inspire people to make positive changes in the world by printing items that have a genuine meaning and value.
big....
LGBT filament trolololo🔥
Almost seaworthy
Whata waste of plastic. 🙈
What a total waste of filament!
It's a Benchy. 🤷🏻♂️
Haha. Any suggestions on what you would like to see?
Thanks for sharing your honest experience with this printer. The slow speed of the Prusa XL and crap print quality convinced me not to get it 😊.
Ruined print cause of a shitty printer that can’t even retract some filament 😂😂😂😂