Hello Harry, I miss your videos. Here in the Colonies-Western North Carolina specifically-we think of you and pray for your health. I love your shoe making book. Jim
I have found that when I am in the middle of skiving a project, especially panel skiving, where I need to skive/split to around 0.5mm and need to sharpen the blade that if I deburr I risk tearing the leather, but if I don't deburr I'm much safer. I thought it would be the other way round. I'm wondering if I have some setting wrong. Perhaps, I need to reposition the grinding stone. Edit: I was too aggressive with the deburring, which pushed a microscopic butt to the cutting side. So, now, in this same situation and I decide to deburr, I need to be less aggressive with the deburring stick and run a bit of scrap before proceeding with the project piece.
Hi Harry Big fan here in Australia. Could you do a video on all the fine adjustments ? Eg; distance of the drive stone to the blade etc. Thank you Peter
Thanks for the video and thank god for RUclips videos because the "manuals" these machines ship with are useless. Two questions: How do you know when it's time to sharpen the blade? Also, you mentioned you slow the blade down prior to sharpening, what speed do you set it to?
Could you show an aerial view of the grinding stone that shows how far forward on the blade the stone should be? When properly positioned, the grinding stone should be removing the marker from the blade edge toward the top of the bevel, not the other way round, correct?
Is there any benefit to sharpening the knife for about 10 seconds periodically during a project, or must the entire bevel always be completely ground. Many times, I don't want to do a full sharpening session, which would remove the marker ink, just a touch-up every no and then. However, I noticed that when I use a marker, the grind starts from the top of the bevel and works its way to the edge, requiring about five minutes of sharpening. This tells me that a 10-second touch-up periodically may not be affecting the knife edge as much as I think it is.
Hi Harry. When I move the bell knife close to the foot then I have an issue sharpening the knife. It will sharpen at a point higher up the bell knife so it is only removing the higher edge of my felt marker line, not the leading edge. I have to back up the bell knife a couple of mm and then sharpen it and then move the bell back to the presser foot again. How can I adjust this?
Harry, do you put the motor on any specific speed when sharpening? Fastest possible? I keep my motor pretty slow when skiving and never really go much faster. Just wondering if when sharpening with the stone, should I ramp the speed up?
Hi Harry, Rod at Pinegrove Leather in Shropshire here. Thanks for those instructions, I don't know how you picked up all that knowledge as there's nothing like that in the instructions that I got with the exact same machine! My problem is that my dressing stone keeps spinning off its shaft. Ever experienced that? Thanks, Rod
@@harryrogers Thanks for getting back Harry. That's an idea, I can certainly try it. I just thought I must be doing something wrong for it to keep spinning off. Rod
@@rodboyes1885 Hi Rod ...nothing I can think of! Good luck with it....just a further thought, if the stone has worn unevenly out of round...unlikely...I suppose it may vibrate more and be more inclined to loosen?
@@harryrogers I'm trying to do everything I can to maximize the performance of my Chinese 801. I thought the SKS51 Nippy 301A would be sufficient. It's maybe 20% better than the stock Taking knife. I noticed that most, if not all, people who need to skive daily, are using hardened German steel knives, what Nippy uses for its domestic market. I'm curious to see if it performs better with thick vegetable tanned leather, something that quickly overheats the Nippy 301A.
Now that you have had your bell knife skiver for some time, have you noticed that sometimes the stone grinds from the top of the knife bevel towards the edge, or does it always sharpen from the edge toward the top of the bevel? I have experienced both, and I am wondering if I need to reposition the grinding stone.
Hello yes I have noticed it grinds the back of the bevel more...May need to move the bell knife or get a new grindstone if it becomes a problem? It's fine at the moment.
@@harryrogers What I've noticed is that once the knife begins to wear, the marker ink will be removed from the top of the bevel towards the edge, right to left, and a full grind could take 5 minutes or longer. Periodic 10-second flash grinds may not be enough, as the knife edge may not be affected at all. I suppose this could be remedied by repositioning the grinding stone a bit more forward, but this could negatively affect the bevel profile if not done correctly. Another reason this could be happening is sometimes I have the knife positioned 0.5mm from the presser foot and at other times 1.0mm from the presser foot. This change of 0.5mm could be the difference between grinding right to left or left to right.
@@pequodexpress Hi! I had the same problems. Maybe because my stone got to small. So for sharpening I move my bell knife backwards and than for skiving forward again to 0.5 mm to the presser foot. But I will change the grinding stone soon...
@@vivienholm I've started periodically putting a very thin line of marker ink on the knife edge so that I can easily see when short grinds are immediately affecting the edge and when longer grinds are necessary. Every now and then, grinds of five to ten minutes are necessary to return the edge to optimal performance.
The stone should swing a fair distance inside the machine by adjusting the front screw knob, if its at the end of its travel it suggests the stone or Bell knife or both are worn.
Hi Harry Could you tell me what model your skiver is. I have looked on the tysew uk website but the only model they sell (Ty-801-1) doesn’t have the clear plastic end cover like yours has. Is there a big difference between different models/ brand’s?
My impression is that they are all fairly generic, but some are a bit better than others...its bit like the imported metal lathes, they may be made in the same factory, but some are better finished than others.
@@harryrogers I sort of guessed they would all be fairly similar, but you never know. The only thing I have noticed is some are direct drive rather than belt, I'm not sure in what situation this would be better, perhaps with thicker leather. Thanks again for your reply
Thanks for your videos please contact me, I need threading and use singer machine 457U105 do you one video about of this machine but somethings I dont understand. please help me.
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Hello Harry, I miss your videos. Here in the Colonies-Western North Carolina specifically-we think of you and pray for your health. I love your shoe making book. Jim
Thanks very much Jim
Thanks Harry. Just sharpened my skiver following you video. Well done!
I watched all 3 of your videos on the bell skiver. I feel a lot more well prepared to start using the machine now. Thanks for the help.
So well demonstrated! Thank you
Love your videos. Hope all is well with you during these times.
Picked the very same one up at the beginning of the month brand new £500 😆 best money I have ever spent! Great vid as ever. All the best, Argo.
Harry you have all the cool tools
Thank u this video was very helpful
Harry, you never disappoint ! You sir, are remarkable. So knowledgeable in so many different things. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Jack
verry usefull, thank you so mutch
That was very interesting.
Thank you!! i am new to the skiver and it stopped performing as it did when it arrived. A quick sharpening and it is new again!
That's great
This was usefull
I have found that when I am in the middle of skiving a project, especially panel skiving, where I need to skive/split to around 0.5mm and need to sharpen the blade that if I deburr I risk tearing the leather, but if I don't deburr I'm much safer. I thought it would be the other way round. I'm wondering if I have some setting wrong. Perhaps, I need to reposition the grinding stone.
Edit: I was too aggressive with the deburring, which pushed a microscopic butt to the cutting side. So, now, in this same situation and I decide to deburr, I need to be less aggressive with the deburring stick and run a bit of scrap before proceeding with the project piece.
Hello, I have skiving machine, same like that.
I wondering, how to make the blade can be sharpe long lasting?
Hi Harry Big fan here in Australia.
Could you do a video on all the fine adjustments ? Eg; distance of the drive stone to the blade etc. Thank you Peter
Thanks Peter...yes it will be done soon. Regards Harry
Thanks for the video and thank god for RUclips videos because the "manuals" these machines ship with are useless.
Two questions: How do you know when it's time to sharpen the blade? Also, you mentioned you slow the blade down prior to sharpening, what speed do you set it to?
Could you show an aerial view of the grinding stone that shows how far forward on the blade the stone should be? When properly positioned, the grinding stone should be removing the marker from the blade edge toward the top of the bevel, not the other way round, correct?
Good info Harry, thank you. Mine came with oil, do you know where it should be oiled?
There is certainly one oil hole under the silver cap on top!
Is there any benefit to sharpening the knife for about 10 seconds periodically during a project, or must the entire bevel always be completely ground. Many times, I don't want to do a full sharpening session, which would remove the marker ink, just a touch-up every no and then. However, I noticed that when I use a marker, the grind starts from the top of the bevel and works its way to the edge, requiring about five minutes of sharpening. This tells me that a 10-second touch-up periodically may not be affecting the knife edge as much as I think it is.
Hi Harry. When I move the bell knife close to the foot then I have an issue sharpening the knife. It will sharpen at a point higher up the bell knife so it is only removing the higher edge of my felt marker line, not the leading edge. I have to back up the bell knife a couple of mm and then sharpen it and then move the bell back to the presser foot again. How can I adjust this?
Hi harry! Love your videos. I have a question. How can i change the Grinding Stone On a Skiver Machine. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Hi Jose I have not tried that!
Harry, do you put the motor on any specific speed when sharpening? Fastest possible? I keep my motor pretty slow when skiving and never really go much faster. Just wondering if when sharpening with the stone, should I ramp the speed up?
Hi I run slow and it seems fine...just 3 or 4 seconds on the stone is enough...don't want to overheat the cutter.
Hi Harry, Rod at Pinegrove Leather in Shropshire here. Thanks for those instructions, I don't know how you picked up all that knowledge as there's nothing like that in the instructions that I got with the exact same machine! My problem is that my dressing stone keeps spinning off its shaft. Ever experienced that? Thanks, Rod
Hi Rod, sorry to hear that, would some car brake threadlock fluid help secure it?
@@harryrogers Thanks for getting back Harry. That's an idea, I can certainly try it. I just thought I must be doing something wrong for it to keep spinning off. Rod
@@rodboyes1885 Hi Rod ...nothing I can think of! Good luck with it....just a further thought, if the stone has worn unevenly out of round...unlikely...I suppose it may vibrate more and be more inclined to loosen?
What knife do you have on your machine? I put a Nippy 301A on my Chinese machine. Now I want to see if a hardened German steel knife performs better.
Just the one it came with...I am very careful not to heat it when regrinding ...so like 5 seconds on the grind and it seems very good.
@@harryrogers I'm trying to do everything I can to maximize the performance of my Chinese 801. I thought the SKS51 Nippy 301A would be sufficient. It's maybe 20% better than the stock Taking knife. I noticed that most, if not all, people who need to skive daily, are using hardened German steel knives, what Nippy uses for its domestic market. I'm curious to see if it performs better with thick vegetable tanned leather, something that quickly overheats the Nippy 301A.
Now that you have had your bell knife skiver for some time, have you noticed that sometimes the stone grinds from the top of the knife bevel towards the edge, or does it always sharpen from the edge toward the top of the bevel? I have experienced both, and I am wondering if I need to reposition the grinding stone.
Hello yes I have noticed it grinds the back of the bevel more...May need to move the bell knife or get a new grindstone if it becomes a problem? It's fine at the moment.
@@harryrogers What I've noticed is that once the knife begins to wear, the marker ink will be removed from the top of the bevel towards the edge, right to left, and a full grind could take 5 minutes or longer. Periodic 10-second flash grinds may not be enough, as the knife edge may not be affected at all. I suppose this could be remedied by repositioning the grinding stone a bit more forward, but this could negatively affect the bevel profile if not done correctly.
Another reason this could be happening is sometimes I have the knife positioned 0.5mm from the presser foot and at other times 1.0mm from the presser foot. This change of 0.5mm could be the difference between grinding right to left or left to right.
@@pequodexpress Yes I think you are spot on about the relative position of the bell knife. I am not aware of any fix...sorry.
@@pequodexpress Hi! I had the same problems. Maybe because my stone got to small. So for sharpening I move my bell knife backwards and than for skiving forward again to 0.5 mm to the presser foot. But I will change the grinding stone soon...
@@vivienholm I've started periodically putting a very thin line of marker ink on the knife edge so that I can easily see when short grinds are immediately affecting the edge and when longer grinds are necessary. Every now and then, grinds of five to ten minutes are necessary to return the edge to optimal performance.
i have some issue with my skiving machine the grinder stone its not touching the bell kinfe even if i released the knobe
The stone should swing a fair distance inside the machine by adjusting the front screw knob, if its at the end of its travel it suggests the stone or Bell knife or both are worn.
Hi Harry Could you tell me what model your skiver is. I have looked on the tysew uk website but the only model they sell (Ty-801-1) doesn’t have the clear plastic end cover like yours has. Is there a big difference between different models/ brand’s?
Hi I would ask Tysew to explain, its some years since I got mine.
@@harryrogers yeah I will, I just wanted an independent opinion. Thanks for the reply anyway
My impression is that they are all fairly generic, but some are a bit better than others...its bit like the imported metal lathes, they may be made in the same factory, but some are better finished than others.
@@harryrogers I sort of guessed they would all be fairly similar, but you never know. The only thing I have noticed is some are direct drive rather than belt, I'm not sure in what situation this would be better, perhaps with thicker leather. Thanks again for your reply
As it is designed for cutting leather, does that mean it is technically self-stropping? :P
It does not blunt quickly and is easily restored so I guess there is an element of stropping...but of course no compound to help!
Thanks for your videos please contact me, I need threading and use singer machine 457U105 do you one video about of this machine but somethings I dont understand. please help me.