Transform Your Trailer Floor-Watch This!
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2023
- Your trailer is an investment! And just like all the other components, your trailer floor is important to maintain. Occasionally, the flooring is beyond maintenance and requires that you remove the old wood and replace the boards with new ones! Check out this video to see The TrailerSmith get this utility trailer all fixed up with a new floor!
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Be sure to check out Texas Custom Trailers on their website.
www.txcustomtrailers.com
Links to products in this video
Milwaukee Drill amzn.to/3PNzQRN
Milwaukee Impact amzn.to/3px2OdX
Milwaukee Blower amzn.to/44dIDkn
Century 7/32 Drill Bit amzn.to/44Ctjh0
Slick Stick amzn.to/3rlqz9r
Torx Bit Socket amzn.to/3KbRWt9
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I'm using composite deck lumber from a tear down on my trailer. It should last forever!
Take one gallon used motor oil mix with one gallon diesel. Spread on wood with old mop and let soak couple hours and repeat until all the solution is used and you have a very water resistant deck
That’s how they did it in the old days, but I wouldn’t be able to recommend it these days.
Sometimes the old ways are still best. Pressure Treated lumber is garbage these days. I'm already ripping up stuff I put down less than ten years ago around my farm. Thompson water seal has to be applied continuously as well so it's not maintenance free. I do however, still know of decks, porches and sheds built 50 years ago and treated with diesel and oil that have zero rot. @TheTrailerSmith
Did the oil trick years ago to my car trailer I owned at the time. Big mistake. Everyday that it was hot out the oil would come up to the surface of the wood. What a mess that made on the deck. Never again.
@@tomahawksteak6672 very valid point. One of many reasons I do not recommend this.
Been using old used motor oil on my trailers for 30 years with no issues.
For those that say oil is a poor choice...lve been building decks for that long too. There are some amazing wood water-proofing treatments out there but none are as economical or durable for trailer wood.
Nice job, the floor looks great!
Thanks!
didn't think of self threading screws, good idea.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
They actually make a thread in the metal ?
I know the boards will shrink, but making the deck boards as tight as you did will slow water to pool on top. This will cause the deck board to fail prematurely. Yes tight board may look better, but some spacing between the board so that they may shed water and debris will last longer.
Thanks for watching!
These boards will begin to shrink within a week of install, with significant shrinkage within 2-3 weeks. That shrinkage will allow for the appropriate gap between the boards. If you leave much space during install, the gaps will be to large and add to warping and in generally just be unstable. In the meantime, pooling water isn't really an issue unless the trailer is stored completely level, in which case you can crank the jack a little higher and place a support under the jack foot to add a tilt to the trailer.
I haul excavators all the time. Slap covered in dirt, mud, grease wads.. if you can imagine that disaster to a trailer you would also understand my choice of 2x10 sealed pine with a 1/4 inch separation gap between each board.😂
I don't treat my trailer deck with used motor oil any more after I accidentally stumbled upon something that I think is better. The motor oil treatment, even if cut with diesel, renders your trailer deck too "greasy," even dangerous, to load and work with. It takes several days in the full sun to soak in enough to safely use the trailer.
Here's my story: I was treating some below-grade masonry with a foundation coating and wanted to clean my application brush so I could re-use it later on. The brush cleaning instructions said to use mineral spirits (or kerosene). So I cleaned the brush in a dishpan with some mineral spirits and then "dried out" the brush onto my trailer bed. I liked what I saw after it had dried. It was black and not greasy, but dry. Long-story-short: I now mix 50% mineral spirits and 50% asphalt fibered roof and foundation coating (SKU 1531222 at Menard's) and apply it to the trailer bed with the same brush.
If you see some one doing a roof/foundation coating, you could probably get enough material from their used buckets to do a 16' trailer, and they'd probably be happy for you to take their buckets. Just dump some mineral spirits in the bucket to thin it down and brush onto your trailer. Just make sure it's not the acrylic (water based) sealer....
I stick by my recommendation made in the video.
Great information and tutorial. I didn't see the link for the decking screws. Could you either put it in the description links or reply here. Thanks so much!
Been looking for the new coated screws in Northern Michigan , have not found them yet.
Where did you find the treated screws?
Damn good work man....
Appreciate the feedback! Thanks for watching the channel!
I am using treated 2" x 8" dried and coated (all sides) with Thompson water seal and attached them with stainless steel carriage bolts with SS lock nuts. Works for me... Thumbs Up!
👍👍
Way to go!
Thanks for watching!
Fyi, you'll need to recoat at least once a year if not more with Thompson if you want to maintain your waterproof protection.
Learned a lot in this short video. Much appreciated. If a guy had a shorter trailer but still had the welded metal lip on both ends would you even need to secure the boards to the frame?
I would recommend at least one row of screws. Good question. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I also use the composite door shims for everything. I was unsure about the drill size when i reused some screws. I guessed 7/32. good to Know i was correct.
There's not much you go wrong with using those shims for! Thanks for watching!
Look up a drill and tap index, it'll have what size taps and drill bit sizes to use with each other. When drill through structural steel, ask for the short machine shooter bits. These take more abuse.
I have a 20’ dove tail that is in a bad need of a new floor but I am in the middle of fixing my tractor trailer floor that got hit in the ass end . What a mess I have but getting it done. The floor was bowed up in the middle back about 18” . I have been wetting it an jacking it down a little at a time to get it back down flat but as I keep it wet it will go back down about 2” every three days . Had to cut out about seven rear cross members floor joists . It drove the I.C.C bumper forward an up thru the floor. Thanks
Man, that's rough! I don't envy you for the work on the floors you have going. Keep on keeping on will get you there! Thanks for watching!
if you don't remove the drill shavings they will wear the paint under the boards and rust the deck beams. I'm doing my 30 ft trailer right now and after drilling the boards removing the shavings.
I see you use a standard drill to make the pilot holes, but then switch to a Impact or Hammer Drill to install the self threading screws? My question is can I use the same regular drill to install the Self Threading Screws? I get mixed up on which to use when it comes to Impact drill vs Hammer drill vs Regular drill.. I picture my regular drill getting the screws started or worse snapping them off in the predrilled holes.. Thank You for the video and the link to the Torx head..
Thanks for watching!
You can use your regular drill. Never use hammer drill. My personal preference is an impact to install the screws because that's what it is designed for, but regular drill will work.
Great question!
What’s the best paint to use for the frame rust? Anything besides POR15. I’m thinking rust oleum rust reformer
Hi! I've included a link for the product I use to neautralize the rust. (Disclaimer: This is an affiliate link, I may earn a small commission from purchases made using the link.) But feel free to purchase it at your local hardware or automotive store, as well. After using that, I would go back over it with an oil based paint for optimal protection of the frame. Great question! I hope this helps.
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So just to confirm you are drilling through the wood and also the frame crossmember and then using a self threading screw?
That is correct!
I have an older Lowes trailer with the mesh bottom? What steps would I take to do that type of floor?
I’ve seen people add a wooden floor to those trailers which is going to add weight, lowering your carrying capacity. So be sure to keep that in mind. As long as you have something to attach the floor to & it wouldn’t interfere with ramp or tailgate due to the flooring height increase it could be done. Frankly I don’t recommend replacing the mesh floor with wood, but if you are set on doing that, you should carefully consider these possible issues.
6x10 utility putting 2x6s would you put 2 screws per board every rail for strength
I always put 2 screws per board. I don’t put screws on every runner. It might be a little overkill, but it shouldn’t hurt anything.
Could you use butyl tape between the boards during install to reduce water penetration?
I would not because it could trap the moisture, causing far greater issues.
Use Boiled Linseed Oil
Linseed oil is great.
What kind of wood do I need? Idk nothing about lumber
Try to get number one pressure treated lumber. It’s not great, but it will most likely be the best you can get these days. Great question! Thanks for watching!
Where do you get the screws for treated lumber?
If you have a local trailer parts supplier or repair shop, that would probably be your best bet. They are getting hard to find online for some reason.
I have a 5x8 utility trailer who needs the wood floor replaced. It has angle iron welded in on both ends. I tried to use a floor jack to bend the board into the slots but Im not sure on this short/small a trailer I can bend the 2x8x8 board enough to fit the trailer.
Any advice?
Great question & thanks for watching! You’re going to have to cut/remove that angle iron in order to get those boards in in addition to possibly cutting the boards to length.
@@TheTrailerSmith
So there’s no way to bend a 2 x 8 x 8 board enough without cutting the iron and re-welding
@@ScottJProctor unfortunately, in most cases, there's no way to bend that board enough on that size trailer.
Can you use composite lumber for a trailer floor?
Absolutely you can! But often, when using composite lumber for home or trailer use, they have a minimum substructure support spacing and minimum screw requirement. That minimum would likely require more cross members and closer screw spacing.
Maybe I missed it but what type of wood did you use?
Hi! It’s #1 treated. You can use #2. We use 2x6 and 2x8, depending on the trailer size.
Where is your trailer shop located?? I’m in South Carolina
Hi! We are in Texas.
Any concerns using pressure treated on aluminum frame trailer?
Hi! Great question. You would need to check with the manufacturer of the wood to see what chemicals are in the treatment to be sure it won't react to the aluminum. My biggest concern would be with the fasteners used to secure the lumber. You will pretty much need to stick with a stainless steel fastener so electrolysis doesn't occur.
Thank you! @@TheTrailerSmith
Wood deck coating.... diesel, gas, used GEAR OIL!
Deck fasteners...... Would be better to use Carriage Bolts.... This is exactly what they are made for. There is not enough Head Size on Deck Screws for this type of Application. Deck Screw in Trailer Application will work its way loose, due to decking constantly vibrabrating, moving, and working the holes in wood larger.... Then the decking works it way loose and starts snapping deck screws off....
Yes, its a hassle drilling for 5/16 Carriage Bolts, then getting underneath trailer to tighten.... fyi, bolts should be galvanized or stainless along with Flat & Lock Washers AND USE STEEL TYPE LOCK/JAM NUTS.... Not the useless plastic insert type lock nuts...
Any wood type deck needs to be checked and fasteners snugged up yearly....
Rule of Thumb.... The wimpier the steel frame is... the more movement/twist....the more issues with deck fasteners loosening....
If you want a maintenance free trailer, spend the money on stronger framing and a welded steel deck!
Wood Decks require above mentioned maintenance yearly.
I would never recommend using motor oils, combustible or flammable fuels to preserve your deck floor. Only use sealers & preservatives in accordance with the lumber manufacturer’s recommendations. If using galvanized fasteners, they must be hot-dipped galvanized not electro galvanized. The fasteners used in this video are used specifically for trailer floor applications, not just a deck screw. If budget allows for carriage fasteners, there’s no problem with that. Just be aware that they will loosen once new floor shrinks and they will be hard to tighten or remove the a lock nut, due to the carriage head.
What size screw did you use ?
They 1/4” x 2 1/2” torx head screws is what I use. Hope this helps!
What size screws are recommended?
Hi! I’d recommend screws that are coated specifically for treated lumber. 1/4-20 inch x 2-1/2 inch.
I’m in the middle of doing the same thing to my 16ft trailer, just removed the wood the past weekend. Where did you get the coated screws? What brand screws are they?
what are the screws called and where do you get them?
Hi there! I'll include a link to where you can get the screws online. It includes the screw description, sizing, etc. They are pretty pricey, but this is the only listing I could find to share with you with an online option. If you have trailer repair shops or trailer parts places local to you, there is a good chance they would have them at a cheaper price. You can also check the type of treated lumber you have. If it is not ACQ treated, then you can use a black phospate screw and you can find those at your local hardware store. www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Redline/TFX250ACQ.html
Thank you for the reply! I searched my local shops and all they had was the black phosphate coated ones so I will end up ordering some! Really enjoy the videos and thanks for the help!
If one is going to tear down a trailer to its frame, why not wire brush the metal and repaint it?
Great question! I highly recommend that, depending on each customer’s desire & budget. The floor we did just prior to this one got a full sand blast & paint job before getting anew floor.
Get a drill and tap index chart, itll tell you what bits go with what screw sizes. Also use machine bits or hole shooter bits. Theyre shorter and handle the torque of free handed drilling, theyre harder material and one should last several trailers worth. Also go slow when punching through channel iron as the heel will grab the bit off angle and break it for you.
I usually weld 1"x 1/4" flatbar down the channel joists to avoid this or if the joists are to holed up ill lace the entire frame with flatbar as a good deck mounting surface. The flatbar is inexpensive, easy to shoot through, self tapping deck bolts eat into it well, it can be reused later by drilling into a future deck from the bottom as the joist webs are out of the way now and it can be easily removed if necessary later. I weld it 1" on 12" top and bottom offset, patterns create neatness and neatness counts same as shooting screws with uniformity
Thanks for watching and for the feedback!