Excellent video thank you. I never knew that ACQ screws were recommended for treated wood. I purchased 130 1/4 x 2 1/2 inch screws for $48.10 plus $31.14 UPS delivery from Humphreys Hitch And Trailer Parts, Pensacola, Florida
I am using treated 2" x 8" dried and coated (all sides) with Thompson water seal and attached them with stainless steel carriage bolts with SS lock nuts. Works for me... Thumbs Up!
Take one gallon used motor oil mix with one gallon diesel. Spread on wood with old mop and let soak couple hours and repeat until all the solution is used and you have a very water resistant deck
Sometimes the old ways are still best. Pressure Treated lumber is garbage these days. I'm already ripping up stuff I put down less than ten years ago around my farm. Thompson water seal has to be applied continuously as well so it's not maintenance free. I do however, still know of decks, porches and sheds built 50 years ago and treated with diesel and oil that have zero rot. @TheTrailerSmith
Did the oil trick years ago to my car trailer I owned at the time. Big mistake. Everyday that it was hot out the oil would come up to the surface of the wood. What a mess that made on the deck. Never again.
Been using old used motor oil on my trailers for 30 years with no issues. For those that say oil is a poor choice...lve been building decks for that long too. There are some amazing wood water-proofing treatments out there but none are as economical or durable for trailer wood.
I know the boards will shrink, but making the deck boards as tight as you did will slow water to pool on top. This will cause the deck board to fail prematurely. Yes tight board may look better, but some spacing between the board so that they may shed water and debris will last longer.
Thanks for watching! These boards will begin to shrink within a week of install, with significant shrinkage within 2-3 weeks. That shrinkage will allow for the appropriate gap between the boards. If you leave much space during install, the gaps will be to large and add to warping and in generally just be unstable. In the meantime, pooling water isn't really an issue unless the trailer is stored completely level, in which case you can crank the jack a little higher and place a support under the jack foot to add a tilt to the trailer.
I haul excavators all the time. Slap covered in dirt, mud, grease wads.. if you can imagine that disaster to a trailer you would also understand my choice of 2x10 sealed pine with a 1/4 inch separation gap between each board.😂
Good video. That’s a nice method to fit the last plank in the center. I use a nice heavy wood post to clobber wood down vs stomping and pounding with my joints. I use sledge hammers of various weights and scrap wood block to budge wood sideways. Weight plus gentle speed = inertia that overcomes stiction.
Excellent video again. One question, how do you insure you don't hit existing holes in the cross members? When I do a new deck, I mark them on each board so I hit new metal.
I have a 5x8 utility trailer who needs the wood floor replaced. It has angle iron welded in on both ends. I tried to use a floor jack to bend the board into the slots but Im not sure on this short/small a trailer I can bend the 2x8x8 board enough to fit the trailer. Any advice?
Great question & thanks for watching! You’re going to have to cut/remove that angle iron in order to get those boards in in addition to possibly cutting the boards to length.
Do you have a recommendation on what wood to use on a cargo trailer floor and on a ramp door other than plywood? Need to use an electric pallet jack inside the cargo trailer without it cracking and breaking up the the floor
Learned a lot in this short video. Much appreciated. If a guy had a shorter trailer but still had the welded metal lip on both ends would you even need to secure the boards to the frame?
I have a 20’ dove tail that is in a bad need of a new floor but I am in the middle of fixing my tractor trailer floor that got hit in the ass end . What a mess I have but getting it done. The floor was bowed up in the middle back about 18” . I have been wetting it an jacking it down a little at a time to get it back down flat but as I keep it wet it will go back down about 2” every three days . Had to cut out about seven rear cross members floor joists . It drove the I.C.C bumper forward an up thru the floor. Thanks
did you say exspecially or especially. its especially. its not expresso coffee its espresso. just trying to help. you help me and 1000s of others. you are a boss. thank you for all of your help
Great information and tutorial. I didn't see the link for the decking screws. Could you either put it in the description links or reply here. Thanks so much!
No nuts required on the underside of the floor screws ? I understand that they're self threading into the steel , but wouldn't it be likely that corrosion would eventually eat away at the weak thread that the screw cut into the steel ?
When taping wires or cable with electrical tape, apply a coat of Scotchkote Electrical Coating to the taped area. It will waterproof the tape and help prevent unraveling of the tape. UPC 00051128. Great video.
Great video! I also use the composite door shims for everything. I was unsure about the drill size when i reused some screws. I guessed 7/32. good to Know i was correct.
Look up a drill and tap index, it'll have what size taps and drill bit sizes to use with each other. When drill through structural steel, ask for the short machine shooter bits. These take more abuse.
What is a good bit to buy that actually works well with air or battery powered drill,,i have bought many but few seem to be sharp enough to easily cut the holes,,also is it a bad idea to eliminate leaf srpings if trailer is only used on farm transporting items..existing ;eaf springs are very rusted
Hi! I've included a link for the product I use to neautralize the rust. (Disclaimer: This is an affiliate link, I may earn a small commission from purchases made using the link.) But feel free to purchase it at your local hardware or automotive store, as well. After using that, I would go back over it with an oil based paint for optimal protection of the frame. Great question! I hope this helps. amzn.to/45TQDqz
I’ve seen people add a wooden floor to those trailers which is going to add weight, lowering your carrying capacity. So be sure to keep that in mind. As long as you have something to attach the floor to & it wouldn’t interfere with ramp or tailgate due to the flooring height increase it could be done. Frankly I don’t recommend replacing the mesh floor with wood, but if you are set on doing that, you should carefully consider these possible issues.
Ive always been told that PT lumber is corrosive to metal, especially the PT lumber we have nowadays… you ever find any issues with that? I know most of the trailer frame it’s touching is painted, but anything that isn’t or the hardware maybe?
I see you use a standard drill to make the pilot holes, but then switch to a Impact or Hammer Drill to install the self threading screws? My question is can I use the same regular drill to install the Self Threading Screws? I get mixed up on which to use when it comes to Impact drill vs Hammer drill vs Regular drill.. I picture my regular drill getting the screws started or worse snapping them off in the predrilled holes.. Thank You for the video and the link to the Torx head..
Thanks for watching! You can use your regular drill. Never use hammer drill. My personal preference is an impact to install the screws because that's what it is designed for, but regular drill will work. Great question!
Hi! Great question. You would need to check with the manufacturer of the wood to see what chemicals are in the treatment to be sure it won't react to the aluminum. My biggest concern would be with the fasteners used to secure the lumber. You will pretty much need to stick with a stainless steel fastener so electrolysis doesn't occur.
Hi there! I'll include a link to where you can get the screws online. It includes the screw description, sizing, etc. They are pretty pricey, but this is the only listing I could find to share with you with an online option. If you have trailer repair shops or trailer parts places local to you, there is a good chance they would have them at a cheaper price. You can also check the type of treated lumber you have. If it is not ACQ treated, then you can use a black phospate screw and you can find those at your local hardware store. www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Redline/TFX250ACQ.html
Thank you for the reply! I searched my local shops and all they had was the black phosphate coated ones so I will end up ordering some! Really enjoy the videos and thanks for the help!
Try to get number one pressure treated lumber. It’s not great, but it will most likely be the best you can get these days. Great question! Thanks for watching!
I’m in the middle of doing the same thing to my 16ft trailer, just removed the wood the past weekend. Where did you get the coated screws? What brand screws are they?
Absolutely you can! But often, when using composite lumber for home or trailer use, they have a minimum substructure support spacing and minimum screw requirement. That minimum would likely require more cross members and closer screw spacing.
I just did a 10 foot trailer and had a hella time drilling through the steel. I used carbide tip 5/16 with WD40 and burned up my 20v cordless and had to rent a corded drill. What type of bit do you recommend to make getting through that steel easier? I went through 3 Diablo bits and am still sore from the effort 😅
Wood deck coating.... diesel, gas, used GEAR OIL! Deck fasteners...... Would be better to use Carriage Bolts.... This is exactly what they are made for. There is not enough Head Size on Deck Screws for this type of Application. Deck Screw in Trailer Application will work its way loose, due to decking constantly vibrabrating, moving, and working the holes in wood larger.... Then the decking works it way loose and starts snapping deck screws off.... Yes, its a hassle drilling for 5/16 Carriage Bolts, then getting underneath trailer to tighten.... fyi, bolts should be galvanized or stainless along with Flat & Lock Washers AND USE STEEL TYPE LOCK/JAM NUTS.... Not the useless plastic insert type lock nuts... Any wood type deck needs to be checked and fasteners snugged up yearly.... Rule of Thumb.... The wimpier the steel frame is... the more movement/twist....the more issues with deck fasteners loosening.... If you want a maintenance free trailer, spend the money on stronger framing and a welded steel deck! Wood Decks require above mentioned maintenance yearly.
I would never recommend using motor oils, combustible or flammable fuels to preserve your deck floor. Only use sealers & preservatives in accordance with the lumber manufacturer’s recommendations. If using galvanized fasteners, they must be hot-dipped galvanized not electro galvanized. The fasteners used in this video are used specifically for trailer floor applications, not just a deck screw. If budget allows for carriage fasteners, there’s no problem with that. Just be aware that they will loosen once new floor shrinks and they will be hard to tighten or remove the a lock nut, due to the carriage head.
if you don't remove the drill shavings they will wear the paint under the boards and rust the deck beams. I'm doing my 30 ft trailer right now and after drilling the boards removing the shavings.
Great question! I highly recommend that, depending on each customer’s desire & budget. The floor we did just prior to this one got a full sand blast & paint job before getting anew floor.
You should flip those deck boards over so the growth rings look like a smile. As the wood shrinks, the growth rings try to straighten, not curve more. Think about an old log. It doesn’t get smaller in diameter, it gets splits the length of the log because as it dries the long wood fibers shrink in their cross section and the growth rings are trying to straighten .
Hi guys, I'm working on replacing the boards for my Dad on his 4x8 - my trouble is the boards run short side to side, not longways... impossible to flex those last boards into place. I'm stumped . Any suggestions appreciated. Also, you look like godzilla stomping there 😅 jk 🎉
Yeah. You can’t really bend anything under 16 foot. You’re gonna have to cut you an access point or remove the flat strap on one or the other then reattach.
SMFH! Work smarter not harder! Make a Upside down V Or a teepee in the center with 2 boards and then step on the boards to drop/push them in.. I mean how dificult is that?
Get a drill and tap index chart, itll tell you what bits go with what screw sizes. Also use machine bits or hole shooter bits. Theyre shorter and handle the torque of free handed drilling, theyre harder material and one should last several trailers worth. Also go slow when punching through channel iron as the heel will grab the bit off angle and break it for you. I usually weld 1"x 1/4" flatbar down the channel joists to avoid this or if the joists are to holed up ill lace the entire frame with flatbar as a good deck mounting surface. The flatbar is inexpensive, easy to shoot through, self tapping deck bolts eat into it well, it can be reused later by drilling into a future deck from the bottom as the joist webs are out of the way now and it can be easily removed if necessary later. I weld it 1" on 12" top and bottom offset, patterns create neatness and neatness counts same as shooting screws with uniformity
Really smart not telling anyone why you don't like self tapping screws.
Excellent video thank you. I never knew that ACQ screws were recommended for treated wood. I purchased 130 1/4 x 2 1/2 inch screws for $48.10 plus $31.14 UPS delivery from Humphreys Hitch And Trailer Parts, Pensacola, Florida
didn't think of self threading screws, good idea.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
They actually make a thread in the metal ?
I am using treated 2" x 8" dried and coated (all sides) with Thompson water seal and attached them with stainless steel carriage bolts with SS lock nuts. Works for me... Thumbs Up!
👍👍
Way to go!
Thanks for watching!
Fyi, you'll need to recoat at least once a year if not more with Thompson if you want to maintain your waterproof protection.
Take one gallon used motor oil mix with one gallon diesel. Spread on wood with old mop and let soak couple hours and repeat until all the solution is used and you have a very water resistant deck
That’s how they did it in the old days, but I wouldn’t be able to recommend it these days.
Sometimes the old ways are still best. Pressure Treated lumber is garbage these days. I'm already ripping up stuff I put down less than ten years ago around my farm. Thompson water seal has to be applied continuously as well so it's not maintenance free. I do however, still know of decks, porches and sheds built 50 years ago and treated with diesel and oil that have zero rot. @TheTrailerSmith
Did the oil trick years ago to my car trailer I owned at the time. Big mistake. Everyday that it was hot out the oil would come up to the surface of the wood. What a mess that made on the deck. Never again.
@@tomahawksteak6672 very valid point. One of many reasons I do not recommend this.
Been using old used motor oil on my trailers for 30 years with no issues.
For those that say oil is a poor choice...lve been building decks for that long too. There are some amazing wood water-proofing treatments out there but none are as economical or durable for trailer wood.
Thanks for sharing your experience
Bought mine from tractor supply already with 2x's. I coated it with a gallon of truck bed paint. Worked really nice.
I know the boards will shrink, but making the deck boards as tight as you did will slow water to pool on top. This will cause the deck board to fail prematurely. Yes tight board may look better, but some spacing between the board so that they may shed water and debris will last longer.
Thanks for watching!
These boards will begin to shrink within a week of install, with significant shrinkage within 2-3 weeks. That shrinkage will allow for the appropriate gap between the boards. If you leave much space during install, the gaps will be to large and add to warping and in generally just be unstable. In the meantime, pooling water isn't really an issue unless the trailer is stored completely level, in which case you can crank the jack a little higher and place a support under the jack foot to add a tilt to the trailer.
I haul excavators all the time. Slap covered in dirt, mud, grease wads.. if you can imagine that disaster to a trailer you would also understand my choice of 2x10 sealed pine with a 1/4 inch separation gap between each board.😂
Wrong theyll shrink
@JB-bb1zw
Reading comprehension is not your finest skill.
Good video. That’s a nice method to fit the last plank in the center. I use a nice heavy wood post to clobber wood down vs stomping and pounding with my joints. I use sledge hammers of various weights and scrap wood block to budge wood sideways. Weight plus gentle speed = inertia that overcomes stiction.
So just to confirm you are drilling through the wood and also the frame crossmember and then using a self threading screw?
That is correct!
Excellent video again. One question, how do you insure you don't hit existing holes in the cross members? When I do a new deck, I mark them on each board so I hit new metal.
Where did you find the treated screws?
I'm using composite deck lumber from a tear down on my trailer. It should last forever!
I have a 5x8 utility trailer who needs the wood floor replaced. It has angle iron welded in on both ends. I tried to use a floor jack to bend the board into the slots but Im not sure on this short/small a trailer I can bend the 2x8x8 board enough to fit the trailer.
Any advice?
Great question & thanks for watching! You’re going to have to cut/remove that angle iron in order to get those boards in in addition to possibly cutting the boards to length.
@@TheTrailerSmith
So there’s no way to bend a 2 x 8 x 8 board enough without cutting the iron and re-welding
@@ScottJProctor unfortunately, in most cases, there's no way to bend that board enough on that size trailer.
U could put just a plank sized section. Insert plank n slide it down, repeat.
Bolt & washer. That's just me. Looks good, excellent fit.
Do you have a recommendation on what wood to use on a cargo trailer floor and on a ramp door other than plywood? Need to use an electric pallet jack inside the cargo trailer without it cracking and breaking up the the floor
Learned a lot in this short video. Much appreciated. If a guy had a shorter trailer but still had the welded metal lip on both ends would you even need to secure the boards to the frame?
I would recommend at least one row of screws. Good question. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! Learned a few things that will help me replace the deck on my trailer. Scott
I like the screw tip. Make sure to seal any cuts otherwise that area will effectivley be non treated pine because of how weak the treatment is.
I used carriage bolts in mine worked well for me haven’t had any issues
I have a 20’ dove tail that is in a bad need of a new floor but I am in the middle of fixing my tractor trailer floor that got hit in the ass end . What a mess I have but getting it done. The floor was bowed up in the middle back about 18” . I have been wetting it an jacking it down a little at a time to get it back down flat but as I keep it wet it will go back down about 2” every three days . Had to cut out about seven rear cross members floor joists . It drove the I.C.C bumper forward an up thru the floor. Thanks
Man, that's rough! I don't envy you for the work on the floors you have going. Keep on keeping on will get you there! Thanks for watching!
Nice job, the floor looks great!
Thanks!
did you say exspecially or especially. its especially. its not expresso coffee its espresso. just trying to help. you help me and 1000s of others. you are a boss. thank you for all of your help
Since you are correcting people I think the spelling that You were looking for is it's as in it is. Not its. Just trying to help..
Do you apply to the bottom?
If not, will the heavy coating on the top be enough?
Great information and tutorial. I didn't see the link for the decking screws. Could you either put it in the description links or reply here. Thanks so much!
No nuts required on the underside of the floor screws ?
I understand that they're self threading into the steel , but wouldn't it be likely that corrosion would eventually eat away at the weak thread that the screw cut into the steel ?
When taping wires or cable with electrical tape, apply a coat of Scotchkote Electrical Coating to the taped area. It will waterproof the tape and help prevent unraveling of the tape. UPC 00051128. Great video.
Great video! I also use the composite door shims for everything. I was unsure about the drill size when i reused some screws. I guessed 7/32. good to Know i was correct.
There's not much you go wrong with using those shims for! Thanks for watching!
Look up a drill and tap index, it'll have what size taps and drill bit sizes to use with each other. When drill through structural steel, ask for the short machine shooter bits. These take more abuse.
You have any experience with those plastic boards that they make for trailer floors?
What is a good bit to buy that actually works well with air or battery powered drill,,i have bought many but few seem to be sharp enough to easily cut the holes,,also is it a bad idea to eliminate leaf srpings if trailer is only used on farm transporting items..existing ;eaf springs are very rusted
Can you share a link to the screws you used?
What’s the best paint to use for the frame rust? Anything besides POR15. I’m thinking rust oleum rust reformer
Hi! I've included a link for the product I use to neautralize the rust. (Disclaimer: This is an affiliate link, I may earn a small commission from purchases made using the link.) But feel free to purchase it at your local hardware or automotive store, as well. After using that, I would go back over it with an oil based paint for optimal protection of the frame. Great question! I hope this helps.
amzn.to/45TQDqz
I have an older Lowes trailer with the mesh bottom? What steps would I take to do that type of floor?
I’ve seen people add a wooden floor to those trailers which is going to add weight, lowering your carrying capacity. So be sure to keep that in mind. As long as you have something to attach the floor to & it wouldn’t interfere with ramp or tailgate due to the flooring height increase it could be done. Frankly I don’t recommend replacing the mesh floor with wood, but if you are set on doing that, you should carefully consider these possible issues.
Ive always been told that PT lumber is corrosive to metal, especially the PT lumber we have nowadays… you ever find any issues with that? I know most of the trailer frame it’s touching is painted, but anything that isn’t or the hardware maybe?
what did that cost? would you share with us? parts price and labor price. thanks again for sharing.
Hmm. Never knew they made self threading screws. Great job thanks
Where do you get the screws for treated lumber?
If you have a local trailer parts supplier or repair shop, that would probably be your best bet. They are getting hard to find online for some reason.
What size Coated Screws are you using for Trailer Flooring? My trailer had 2-1/2 in, 1/4-20…
Where can I get a good lumber for may trailer and what kind of wood ?
I see you use a standard drill to make the pilot holes, but then switch to a Impact or Hammer Drill to install the self threading screws? My question is can I use the same regular drill to install the Self Threading Screws? I get mixed up on which to use when it comes to Impact drill vs Hammer drill vs Regular drill.. I picture my regular drill getting the screws started or worse snapping them off in the predrilled holes.. Thank You for the video and the link to the Torx head..
Thanks for watching!
You can use your regular drill. Never use hammer drill. My personal preference is an impact to install the screws because that's what it is designed for, but regular drill will work.
Great question!
6x10 utility putting 2x6s would you put 2 screws per board every rail for strength
I always put 2 screws per board. I don’t put screws on every runner. It might be a little overkill, but it shouldn’t hurt anything.
Would there be any advantage to using wider boards than 2x6?
Any concerns using pressure treated on aluminum frame trailer?
Hi! Great question. You would need to check with the manufacturer of the wood to see what chemicals are in the treatment to be sure it won't react to the aluminum. My biggest concern would be with the fasteners used to secure the lumber. You will pretty much need to stick with a stainless steel fastener so electrolysis doesn't occur.
Thank you! @@TheTrailerSmith
Been looking for the new coated screws in Northern Michigan , have not found them yet.
Damn good work man....
Appreciate the feedback! Thanks for watching the channel!
Can i remove and replace my old wood planks the same way if i have a box van ?
what are the screws called and where do you get them?
Hi there! I'll include a link to where you can get the screws online. It includes the screw description, sizing, etc. They are pretty pricey, but this is the only listing I could find to share with you with an online option. If you have trailer repair shops or trailer parts places local to you, there is a good chance they would have them at a cheaper price. You can also check the type of treated lumber you have. If it is not ACQ treated, then you can use a black phospate screw and you can find those at your local hardware store. www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Redline/TFX250ACQ.html
Thank you for the reply! I searched my local shops and all they had was the black phosphate coated ones so I will end up ordering some! Really enjoy the videos and thanks for the help!
Question, sir: Is a 50/50 mixture of diesel & engine oil a good wood preservative ?
What size screw did you use ?
They 1/4” x 2 1/2” torx head screws is what I use. Hope this helps!
@@TheTrailerSmith was hoping to find a link! All I can find are the black ones! Thanks!!
Maybe I missed it but what type of wood did you use?
Hi! It’s #1 treated. You can use #2. We use 2x6 and 2x8, depending on the trailer size.
What kind of wood do I need? Idk nothing about lumber
Try to get number one pressure treated lumber. It’s not great, but it will most likely be the best you can get these days. Great question! Thanks for watching!
What size screws are recommended?
Hi! I’d recommend screws that are coated specifically for treated lumber. 1/4-20 inch x 2-1/2 inch.
I’m in the middle of doing the same thing to my 16ft trailer, just removed the wood the past weekend. Where did you get the coated screws? What brand screws are they?
Could you use butyl tape between the boards during install to reduce water penetration?
I would not because it could trap the moisture, causing far greater issues.
Can you use composite lumber for a trailer floor?
Absolutely you can! But often, when using composite lumber for home or trailer use, they have a minimum substructure support spacing and minimum screw requirement. That minimum would likely require more cross members and closer screw spacing.
I just did a 10 foot trailer and had a hella time drilling through the steel. I used carbide tip 5/16 with WD40 and burned up my 20v cordless and had to rent a corded drill. What type of bit do you recommend to make getting through that steel easier? I went through 3 Diablo bits and am still sore from the effort 😅
use solid cobalt bits not coated they are expensive dont drill on old broken bolts
Where is your trailer shop located?? I’m in South Carolina
Hi! We are in Texas.
Wood deck coating.... diesel, gas, used GEAR OIL!
Deck fasteners...... Would be better to use Carriage Bolts.... This is exactly what they are made for. There is not enough Head Size on Deck Screws for this type of Application. Deck Screw in Trailer Application will work its way loose, due to decking constantly vibrabrating, moving, and working the holes in wood larger.... Then the decking works it way loose and starts snapping deck screws off....
Yes, its a hassle drilling for 5/16 Carriage Bolts, then getting underneath trailer to tighten.... fyi, bolts should be galvanized or stainless along with Flat & Lock Washers AND USE STEEL TYPE LOCK/JAM NUTS.... Not the useless plastic insert type lock nuts...
Any wood type deck needs to be checked and fasteners snugged up yearly....
Rule of Thumb.... The wimpier the steel frame is... the more movement/twist....the more issues with deck fasteners loosening....
If you want a maintenance free trailer, spend the money on stronger framing and a welded steel deck!
Wood Decks require above mentioned maintenance yearly.
I would never recommend using motor oils, combustible or flammable fuels to preserve your deck floor. Only use sealers & preservatives in accordance with the lumber manufacturer’s recommendations. If using galvanized fasteners, they must be hot-dipped galvanized not electro galvanized. The fasteners used in this video are used specifically for trailer floor applications, not just a deck screw. If budget allows for carriage fasteners, there’s no problem with that. Just be aware that they will loosen once new floor shrinks and they will be hard to tighten or remove the a lock nut, due to the carriage head.
Not sure why They did not want to clean up and repaint the cross frame members???
Budget is usually a big factor for these decisions. The purpose for the trailer usually another reason.
where are you located and do you take new customers.
We are located in North Texas. Just north of Fort Worth
Should function well
if you don't remove the drill shavings they will wear the paint under the boards and rust the deck beams. I'm doing my 30 ft trailer right now and after drilling the boards removing the shavings.
Use Boiled Linseed Oil
Linseed oil is great.
If one is going to tear down a trailer to its frame, why not wire brush the metal and repaint it?
Great question! I highly recommend that, depending on each customer’s desire & budget. The floor we did just prior to this one got a full sand blast & paint job before getting anew floor.
You should flip those deck boards over so the growth rings look like a smile. As the wood shrinks, the growth rings try to straighten, not curve more. Think about an old log. It doesn’t get smaller in diameter, it gets splits the length of the log because as it dries the long wood fibers shrink in their cross section and the growth rings are trying to straighten .
Hi guys, I'm working on replacing the boards for my Dad on his 4x8 - my trouble is the boards run short side to side, not longways...
impossible to flex those last boards into place. I'm stumped . Any suggestions appreciated.
Also, you look like godzilla stomping there 😅 jk 🎉
Yeah. You can’t really bend anything under 16 foot. You’re gonna have to cut you an access point or remove the flat strap on one or the other then reattach.
SMFH! Work smarter not harder! Make a Upside down V Or a teepee in the center with 2 boards and then step on the boards to drop/push them in.. I mean how dificult is that?
Anytimee l get wood its a great day ............ oh wood wood my bad
Get a drill and tap index chart, itll tell you what bits go with what screw sizes. Also use machine bits or hole shooter bits. Theyre shorter and handle the torque of free handed drilling, theyre harder material and one should last several trailers worth. Also go slow when punching through channel iron as the heel will grab the bit off angle and break it for you.
I usually weld 1"x 1/4" flatbar down the channel joists to avoid this or if the joists are to holed up ill lace the entire frame with flatbar as a good deck mounting surface. The flatbar is inexpensive, easy to shoot through, self tapping deck bolts eat into it well, it can be reused later by drilling into a future deck from the bottom as the joist webs are out of the way now and it can be easily removed if necessary later. I weld it 1" on 12" top and bottom offset, patterns create neatness and neatness counts same as shooting screws with uniformity
Thanks for watching and for the feedback!
Why wouldnt you clean and paint all the cross braces? Seems like a good time to do it…
This is not my personal trailer. I run a shop that does maintenance & repairs for customers. That is not a service the customer wanted at that time.