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Just bought a new '24 Jayco with Lippert EZ lube axles. Removed the rubber caps to check for grease. Outer bearing did have some although light in my opinion. After 1st trip (about 20 miles) I did notice one hub running hot compared to the other three. Should I just grease all the hubs until grease pushes out outer bearing?

about 100 in the tx panhandle today,how about solder and heat shrink

Does someone have to be depressing the brake pedal for the power to be coming to the brakes?

I am about to receive a custom-ordered cargo trailer that’s being driven from your neck of the woods to Austin. Is there harm in doing the burnishing process (AFTER I check the lug nuts!)? I won’t have a clue on whether the brakes were burnished but for sure they won’t have been adjusted. Just wondering if there’s any risk to RE-burnishing them after it’s been driven a few hundreds of miles to get to me.

Thank you for your video, it really opens our eyes to the real deal. We bought a new 2024 Jayco . I wondered after receiving ownership if the barrings should be repacked right away or they can wait. Common sense says to repack asap! Thanks again.

Great series of videos, really enjoying them. I would love to hear your thorough coverage on "all you ever wanted to know about breakaway brakes." I don't spot that in your current list of videos. I suspect I am like a lot of folks - I connect the safety wire (maybe the right way, maybe not) and just assume it's going to work if I ever need it! I think there's a lot I need to learn.

I'm surprised you didn't go into manufacturing dates on the tires. When the tire company says to replace the tires at 5 to 7 years, that doesn't mean when they are put on your trailer. That means when the tires are manufactured. Also, the next biggest thing is when you get tires that all have the same manufacture date on them or a week or two different. Just like anything else, tire shops try and get rid of old stock first before they get into the newer stock.

Just finshed taking everything apart on my camper. Brakes having electrical disconnect issues so I needed to get the the backing plates. I found two of the hubs had seal failures and the brakes were full of grease so half of the brakes were effectivly not working. I have had this trailer for 10 years and all previous inspections I never had this failure. I also found two of the outer bearings starting so spall which I would not have known about if I would not have taken the the system apart. So does easy lube work, it kinda does but you can have brake issues and not know it. My other trailer with ezlube axle does not have brakes so its easy for me to pump it full until I see clean red grease come out and I can see the rear seal. I guess at the end of the day, if you hand pack and then imediately fill the system it will work with clean grease. Then in the future you can quickly grease the system and see clean grease at the outer bearing. ONce the grease starts to show dirty coming out then time to clean and hand pack to get it cleaned up again. In regards to the electrical disconnect issues and check wiriring warnings I ams still working thru that problem. I did find a smoking gun for the cause of this problem as one of the axles had the cross wires that is inside of the axle showing wear thru the the insulation and bare wire that could have been shorting out the system. Until I get it rewired this week I can not do any testing to see if I fixed the problem.

Just an idea here take it or leave it. I welded washers on my u-bolts by the brake so I can tie the brake wire to it .

First great video I have dexter axles I was going to use lucas red n tacky and or other one I think it’s called heavy duty put out by lucas also but would those products have some kind of reaction causing the lucas product to degrade or does enough come out so that should not be a problem this is the first time with this kind of axle I was thinking one year use the ez lube system and the next do a total breakdown I put on 2,000 miles a year maybe. Just looking for your thoughts.

Great information and tutorial. I didn't see the link for the decking screws. Could you either put it in the description links or reply here. Thanks so much!

The simplest and best narrated video on this subject period!. Thank you Mr TrailerSmith!

Mention of 'real fine Emery cloth or Steel wool' on spindle....What Grit?

I asked the guy at rv place about ez lube axles . He said he doesn’t recommend. Said : dexter made that for marine applications mainly .

I see dexter has sealed bearings for trailers . 🤔

Thanks for the video and info

At minimum stay safe is the best advice if you know you won't check them often enough please get at minimum the auto adjust ones. I've been a master mechanic for 2 decades and please be safe in the road it's my family your driving towards

When using the Mistik Jt6 high temp. Does it have to specify for wheel bearings or not.

The so called technicians are so bad now your lucky if they put all the lug nuts back on the trailer now, charge you a huge bill, F you over by doubling the parts bill and screw something else up in the process and not looking at anything else but there watch for lunch hour

Thank you for the video.

Your videos are very informative.

I was excited about ez lube but then I remembered my moto on my business invoices... "If you don't do it right the first time, when are you going to have time to do it over?"

Thank you for the video.

Thank you for the video.

Thank you for the video.

Thank you for the video.

Just bought a pontoon boat and its got these on it and was needing to service them I've never dealt with them before but now im waiting to replace them with something. Do you recommend using bearing buddies are something else? Thanks for your help!

Awesome

excellent video,,,,Thanks !!!!!!

If you fill the hub cavity with grease, as it heats up the grease will expand and go somewhere. If the cap is cleaned out it will be okay. If you leave the cap full it will either blow the cap off or blow the seal out the back. I have never and will never use an ez lube. I have pulled apart hubs that have not been apart for 20 years and not a single problem. Granted I only tow a few thousand miles a year.

My expensive truck has molded 4-flat and 7-pin with nothing hanging down. I tow both a boat trailer with surge brakes and 5-pin but I also tow an equipment trailer with electric brakes and 7-pin connector for which I have a controller under my dash. Adapter 7-pin to 5-pin is only way to go. Buy two ... always carry a spare.

The small cargo trailer i just bought has these. I kinda thought of it as a joke. As a mechanic im with you im pulling the drums off to inspect everything and clean it. To much risk in my opinion with a single axle trailer pulling my tools around in. Granted its only a small cart and some specialty 3.0 ford/land rover tools. I did learn how it works. I may give it a try when i add trailer brakes to the trailer. Im religious on maintenance so maybe it will work how they designed it.

From what I've found in last 5yrs running a 8k with oil, if it gets milky looking, then the inside seal is failing and it's seeping oil inside the drum. It won't be noticeable for awhile because when using it the heat cooks it off, but when it cools from sitting thats when it let's in atmosphere and oil gets milky looking again. Oil is nice, but u should always watch them cause the amount of oil is minimum vs a OTR class 8 trailer. Oil is nice, but that seal is 20-30$ vs 10$ or less for grease. I'd rather have oil at this point vs grease. Been using synthetic oil 75-130 and it stays cleaner and doesn't get that nasty burnt smell 80/90 gets after a yr

Should cover if balancing a trailer tire is necessary or not. I'm a believer that it is not. I've changed hundreds and hundreds of semi trailer tires and not a single one was ever balanced in any way. That and even new trailer tires mounted on rims do not come balance. Just my opinion and would like others who know what they are talking about or have a lot of experience with trailer tires chime in.

Airstream travel trailers are the premium brand, they all come with LT Michelin tires now.

hi, i am building my own tandem and i have a lot of problems with the equaliser. is there many model of equaliser size,my tandem is 13 inch wheel and all 3500 leaf spring. 23.25 between leaf eye. thanks if you can show 2,3 model of equaliser ,now i installed EQ-310 and i found it to be wait to high n the center so my leaf are jumming ,,and i have to use a big screew driver to take them back in position. i need support 1 thanks in advance. Gervais. PS thanks for the video

Thank you!!! I will most definitely save this video for reference

That’s good information I don’t care who you are 😊

What do you think of the curt echo

Boat trailer oil I'll do every year, utility trailer or camping trailer with synthetic grease maybe every 3 yrs, camping trailer with oil, every 2 yrs depending on how long it sits for in that period, oil will detiorate a bit faster than grease, and trailer axles can't vent condensation when they heat up like a drive axle can, as they don't have breathers. If the oil is dark or cloudy, not clear, change it. MIleage on the synthetic oil & grease is nearly irrelevant, currrent oils can run to 3yrs, 250,000 miles these days, condensation and time is the enemy.

Kudos to the cameraman.

Great video as always. What, no eyelets today and fancy wire stripper? Thanks again

I've wired them before, but never used eyelets. Great idea! Thanks

I'm told that the blue wire powering the electric brakes on trailer is only 'hot' at the 7-pin on truck if the truck is moving because of proportional braking on modern trucks. If so, how do I check this connection? My tbc works if squeezed and the break away emergency works, just not with truck brake pedal while running down the road. Ideas for me to check? I have new drums and magnets, checked fuses, and checked for rusty wires at junction box where wires from harness enter the trailer. Thanks for you videos, well presented.

So you’re worried about tires that are only 20 years old?! Mine were old when I bought my utility trailer in 1984 so they’re well over 40. It’s a dual axle 5x12 that was originally used by a lawn care provider. BUT, it kind of fits your “pulling it around the farm” example. I’ve probably never had more than 1000 lbs in it and seldom over 500. And I can only remember one time when I pulled it further than 5-6 miles to the landfill or the local big box when I need to carry something too big for my SUV - and most of that distance is on a dirt road. The one ‘long’ trip was a 40 miles to pick up a used sandblasting cabinet - so no real weight in it. The biggest problem I have with the tires is rim leaks that develop when I let it sit too long. HOWEVER, the cracks in the tires are now getting so bad that it looks like the tires were retreads and the retread is about to come off. I guess I finally need to go out and spend at least twice as much on new tires as the $400 I paid for the trailer originally. (Yeah, the frame was cracked in multiple places and it needed wheel bearings so I got it cheap and fixed it up for about $100 - in 1984 dollars of course.)

All of my enclosed race trailers have come equipped with some form of EZ Lube axles and personally, I am not a fan. Being a mechanic and old racer I much prefer to fully tear mine down for service. This allows me to put hands and eyes on every component in the system and verify their integrity. I've serviced mine that way in 30+ years and over 250k miles of hauling trailers behind our coach. Great video. Mike

Thanks for the video. After re assembly with easy hubs, should I refill the cavity with grease thru the zerk fitting?

Do electric brakes have wear indicators like automobiles?