I used to own a 1968 Ford F-100. Thanks to some friends I've been acquainted with for 63 years, named Righty and Lefty, it's now a trailer. My tow vehicle had a 4-pin flat plug, so that's what I went with for the lights. My current vehicle is a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer EXT with a 7 pin connector, so I got an adapter. The lights are grounded through the taillight buckets, and I think age and weather have degraded the grounds, as well as the buckets themselves. I bought new buckets, a 7 pin cord, and have a junction box coming from AutoZone. I plan to build a new wiring harness for the trailer and do the job right. I also plan to run a ground wire from each bucket to a screw/bolt on the frame. I completely agree with you on the suitcase connectors. They are fine for wiring your model railroad, but they have no place on a trailer! I'll get this done if Lincoln, Ne ever gets out of the deep freeze!
I have towed recreational trailers for almost 60 yr. My experience agrees with all your trailer videos. There is an additional factor involving trailer lights. In my experience mechanical damage is a significant cause of light failure. Brush, weeds etc well break the light housing or pull loose wiring apart. As a result I went a different direction in my light housings and connections. I doubled up on the housing brackets putting protection on the top and bottom of the light. I drill holes in the frame and run wires thru to avoid hanging wires. Under the trailer I run gray conduit with wires pulled in to avoid mechanical damage. I fully agree that solder and shrink tube is the best. I have all the training and equipment to do it but not on the side of the road. So for connections I use plain old wire nuts. That way if need to made repairs on the side of the road I can do it. I am certainly anal about it but I got tired of fixing lights every time I used one of my five trailers.
do you have any tips on making sure the connections thru your 7 Pin are good. I always seem to have trouble with just the plug connection, like one light not working until I wiggle it the proper way. seems like the problem is new plugs, old plugs whatever. is there some kind of product to make that connection better?
Another great informative video. One quick quick question. When you are piercing the ground wire with your tester does that not leave a tiny hole in the wire that you need to cover or does the insulation self seal after you take the tester out. Sorry for the dumb question.
Buddy, what is the difference in between utility and RV? I always get turned around when the colors don’t jive/why wouldn’t they both be the same? Good info man?
Great advice as usual, except in regard to soldering. Soldered connections are not ideal, especially where vibration is a factor. This is one of the reasons why OEM vehicles, aircraft, motorsport, etc do not solder for the majority of their connections, they crimp using proper crimps and proper crimping tools.
Don't forget dirty contacts on the incandescent bulbs and socket...been there. Use a dab of dielectric grease on the bulbs. AND make sure your plug contacts are clean and no corrosion.
@@johndias6614 your correct. Back in the bulb socket days the dielectric greases helped a lot. The contact corrosion is a big problem. Most metal oxides are electrically semiconductors as a result the contacts generate heat I squared r heat. The heat can cause the plastic connector insert to become plastic (in the strength of materials meaning). In an Rv type connector the flat blades move apart in the soft plastic. So there is less wiping action during mating. If one has trailers with four wheel brakes and 11 inch drums the current in the ground pin gets high enough to cause resistive heating. The ground current is the sum of all the lights and brake currents. My solution was to go to an 18 wheeler connector. The ground pin is larger and the pins are round so no side forces. The 18 wheeler connectors are very near the price of an Rv flat blade connector. The Rv guys should consider changing over. Even better fewer people will want to barrow your trailer!
....trailer wiring/lighting is about a 3-4 times/year event for me. Grounding.....I agree is most frequent. I have no idea what a good led is versus failure prone led. .....thyere all china made these days. I just carry an extra set and use a lot of DOT reflective tape. Soldering is easy peasy.....I only skip it if in a rush or access is difficult.
The thing that makes me cringe is the piercing of the insulation to test it. I can’t tell you how much wiring I’ve repaired because the wire corroded where it was pierced. You need to reseal the insulation if you are going to pierce a hole in it with your tester.
You never ever pierce the wiring insulation! In my shops test lights with sharp points are not allowed! Salt and. Copper wiring do not mix, you get green death. Fireable offense here
I used to own a 1968 Ford F-100. Thanks to some friends I've been acquainted with for 63 years, named Righty and Lefty, it's now a trailer. My tow vehicle had a 4-pin flat plug, so that's what I went with for the lights. My current vehicle is a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer EXT with a 7 pin connector, so I got an adapter. The lights are grounded through the taillight buckets, and I think age and weather have degraded the grounds, as well as the buckets themselves. I bought new buckets, a 7 pin cord, and have a junction box coming from AutoZone. I plan to build a new wiring harness for the trailer and do the job right. I also plan to run a ground wire from each bucket to a screw/bolt on the frame.
I completely agree with you on the suitcase connectors. They are fine for wiring your model railroad, but they have no place on a trailer! I'll get this done if Lincoln, Ne ever gets out of the deep freeze!
I have towed recreational trailers for almost 60 yr. My experience agrees with all your trailer videos. There is an additional factor involving trailer lights. In my experience mechanical damage is a significant cause of light failure. Brush, weeds etc well break the light housing or pull loose wiring apart. As a result I went a different direction in my light housings and connections. I doubled up on the housing brackets putting protection on the top and bottom of the light. I drill holes in the frame and run wires thru to avoid hanging wires. Under the trailer I run gray conduit with wires pulled in to avoid mechanical damage. I fully agree that solder and shrink tube is the best. I have all the training and equipment to do it but not on the side of the road. So for connections I use plain old wire nuts. That way if need to made repairs on the side of the road I can do it. I am certainly anal about it but I got tired of fixing lights every time I used one of my five trailers.
Yes sir I’m guilty of going cheap and it always bites me! You are a book of knowledge buddy!
I’ve been there, too! Thanks for watching!
Man that ground information that is good stuff man super effective and easy to remember
Thanks for watching!
Very helpful. Thanks
You’re welcome. Thank you for watching!
Thanks for what you do. Don
I enjoyed the video good info thank you
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
All good information. Thank you sir!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
good one thanks
do you have any tips on making sure the connections thru your 7 Pin are good. I always seem to have trouble with just the plug connection, like one light not working until I wiggle it the proper way. seems like the problem is new plugs, old plugs whatever. is there some kind of product to make that connection better?
Another great informative video. One quick quick question. When you are piercing the ground wire with your tester does that not leave a tiny hole in the wire that you need to cover or does the insulation self seal after you take the tester out. Sorry for the dumb question.
The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. It's good practice to use a dab of liquid electrical tape on the hole and seal it.
Question, is there such a thing as an adapter to go from your 7-pin RV male trailer plug to a power source such as a generator?
Great video, my question is, why is there a difference in color code between a recreational trailer and a utility trailer?
Buddy, what is the difference in between utility and RV? I always get turned around when the colors don’t jive/why wouldn’t they both be the same? Good info man?
Great advice as usual, except in regard to soldering. Soldered connections are not ideal, especially where vibration is a factor. This is one of the reasons why OEM vehicles, aircraft, motorsport, etc do not solder for the majority of their connections, they crimp using proper crimps and proper crimping tools.
Solder Seal connectors are the bomb.. no mention in your video.
Wow, how can you recommend Chinese made aluminum wire for use on a trailer?
@@Oldtech51 and solder to it?
Great lawyer joke !!!!
What part of Texas are you from?
I’m in north Texas
Don't forget dirty contacts on the incandescent bulbs and socket...been there. Use a dab of dielectric grease on the bulbs.
AND make sure your plug contacts are clean and no corrosion.
@@johndias6614 your correct. Back in the bulb socket days the dielectric greases helped a lot. The contact corrosion is a big problem. Most metal oxides are electrically semiconductors as a result the contacts generate heat I squared r heat. The heat can cause the plastic connector insert to become plastic (in the strength of materials meaning). In an Rv type connector the flat blades move apart in the soft plastic. So there is less wiping action during mating. If one has trailers with four wheel brakes and 11 inch drums the current in the ground pin gets high enough to cause resistive heating. The ground current is the sum of all the lights and brake currents. My solution was to go to an 18 wheeler connector. The ground pin is larger and the pins are round so no side forces. The 18 wheeler connectors are very near the price of an Rv flat blade connector. The Rv guys should consider changing over. Even better fewer people will want to barrow your trailer!
....trailer wiring/lighting is about a 3-4 times/year event for me. Grounding.....I agree is most frequent. I have no idea what a good led is versus failure prone led. .....thyere all china made these days. I just carry an extra set and use a lot of DOT reflective tape.
Soldering is easy peasy.....I only skip it if in a rush or access is difficult.
The thing that makes me cringe is the piercing of the insulation to test it. I can’t tell you how much wiring I’ve repaired because the wire corroded where it was pierced. You need to reseal the insulation if you are going to pierce a hole in it with your tester.
You never ever pierce the wiring insulation! In my shops test lights with sharp points are not allowed! Salt and. Copper wiring do not mix, you get green death. Fireable offense here