MY SEWING MISTAKES AND HOW TO AVOID THEM, PART II // MY MEDIEVAL COSTUMING JOURNEY
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
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The metal rings for the arming garment is such a revelation for me. I think I’ll be trying that for my dad’s arming clothes.
Thank you for watching and commenting! Diego's farsetto is in general a revelation in 15th century Tailoring. For instance, the peplum on the front panels is actually not separate from the body. There is a false seam to create the indented waist and impression that it is, but I believe the false team was put there because the leg harness was suspended from the Garment and having a false seen instead of a completely separate piece of fabric made it strong enough to take the weight of the leg harness in combat conditions. I'm in the process of patterning and making a reconstruction of this doublet, and have started publishing the raw footage of the process as extras for my channel members and patreons. 😊
Such wonderful tips and words of wisdom! I, too, live by these when sewing! 🧵🪡👍
Thank you for watching and commenting! I know you are an advanced sewist, so I appreciate you watching despite the fact that nothing in here was probably news to you! 😅😊
@@thecreativecontessa refreshers are always good too 👍
I always enjoy your humor and storytelling too ❤️
@@LisaJones-wc9ny it is always good to know when my sense of humor actually shines through and provides enjoyment! Of course, my particular brand of wit is not to everyone's taste, and it does sometimes trigger people! My video essay on medieval headgear is a prime example...🤣🤣🤣
On my thick Roman era-based Tunic a very thick gold brocade was sewn around the collar and partially down the split neckline down the chest where I own a very large collection of ancient perfect condition bronze and iron Fibulas in which I use to fasten my Roman cloak and large Tunic. I use same method you have described in your video every time I use an ancient small Pegasus Fibula on the cloak with no fabric damage after twenty years of using this 2200-year-old Fibula. The pin slides right through the fabric without any resistance and prevented the Fibula pin from bending and breaking. The Awl method is definitely proven its worth through ages. Thank you.
I love that you are using original pieces in your ensemble! How did they survive in such excellent condition? Buried inside a lead box in some sort of anaerobic bog mud?
@@thecreativecontessaMostly extreme patience in buying only well-preserved bronze artifacts from sellers in Ebay with no complaints in their profiles and by going through 2000 lots a day while buying the best preserved and most importantly watching out for fakes.
Thanx a lot! 👍💚
I have been doing historical garments for 28 years and I think I've made all those mistakes at one time or another, between me and my family's garb. Add to that , washing a red linen tunic with a white chemise-which is now blotchy pink. Said red linen tunic was prewashed but still bled color. I've seen eyelets reinforced with loops of thick thread or cord as well as the rings you describe.
Biais stretch is terrifying honestly. Marvellous. But terrifying.
Indeed! When harnessed properly, the effects are delightful. When brought into action without meaning to, disastrous! 😅
The dance is soooo flirty. Cute kitties
Wonderful video, I enjoyed reminiscing through my very same mistakes made through the decades!
Thank you for watching and commenting! It is Interesting how many of these mistakes have experienced "parallel development". 😅
Liked, shared and now commented.
I hope it was interesting if not necessarily useful for you!❤
Always.
Also: I am fully expecting to take some hate/heat over my unequivocal stance about authenticity gatekeeping and my rather strong statements in that regard. 🤣
Haters will hate.@@thecreativecontessa
Reminds me of my war on the Tramsviking community. And i don't even do "Viking" LARP-ing or re-enactment@@thecreativecontessa
I love this. Oh the silks I have killed! Not to mention the problems with children's garb.
The kirtle you had to correct the neckline - it is a back laced. What’s your stand nowadays with back lacing? A lot of transitional illuminations (Robinet Testard, the book of simple medicines or Roman de la rose or Boccace Des cleres et nobles femmes) show these kirtles but seldom the lacing. I have begun some projects years ago with side lacing to create the look. Now when I’m going to finish them I’m not sure of where I should put the lacing…
That is a very good question! The kirtle is indeed back-laced, but I would say that my current position is I don't really have evidence of them being laced in the back. And honestly, it's very inconvenient because then you absolutely have to have someone help you get dressed. So I have not made any more back-lacing gowns. The problem with illuminations is that they are often in miniature, and so details like that aren't necessarily depicted clearly. And, of course, proper portraits never depict women in that layer. Meanwhile the ultra realistic Flemish paintings when they do show women in that layer depict them as having either front or side lacing. So my current theory is hidden lacing of the sort that you see in the posthumous portrait of Agnes Sorrel. With lacing rings on the inside of the opening placed so closely that you practically so the thing together. Or that it is opened in the front and it is sewn shut. I had one kirtle that I did literally sew shut because I was too lazy to actually install holes or rings. It actually doesn't take that long. And it would be entirely possible to simply pull the thread back through and reuse the thread for future projects, taking into account the medieval mindset about conservation of materials.
💜💜💜💜💜💜
Thank you for the lovely emojis! I hope it proved interested if not useful! ☺
I had a few wool sweaters that I washed for years on a cold, gentle cycle, and went from laying down to dry, to hanging to dry. I bought them large, expecting some shrinking, and when they did not shrink much, I was pretty pleased. Of course, I grew in that time, and the extra fabric became just about right. Well, eventually, I noticed my sweaters pilled more, and were dryer in that brittle sort of way. So, I put them in the wash with melted lanolin... They felted up. The proportions got all wrong. That was quite a disappointment. I wouldn't look at wool again until I started contemplating boiled wool. But note that the lanolizing wash was on cold, as best as I can recall. (My instructions were for warm/cold, but I think by then I had hurt another sweater with a warm/cold wash, and I didn't trust it. My memory is a bit fuzzy.) I have wondered since then if taking something like otterwax, and rubbing it on, then melting it with a the bottom of a hot bowl, might do less felting, but I haven't tried it. I like cabled, thick knits, and rubbing in wax on one side, just doesn't seem very possible or effective, unless you've run through every other option.
There's a small spinnery in Vermont, (Green Mountain Spinnery?) that puts out videos about the machines they use, how they treat the wool, and who they work with. When I started buying yarn, I quickly started favoring worsted, because it didn't seem to pill as much. Green Mountain Spinnery made it clear they don't make worsted yarn, and it requires an extra machine to make, and it is a later invention, an industrial one. What they make is yarn that sort of has fluffy burls inside, and is a bit uneven on the outside, allowing different fiber lengths to be used, and an air trapping, light, and still somewhat bulky yarn to be made. What it has on worsted is warmth. I say this because this is, and was the height of engineering a technical, warm yarn out of wool. Was it harder to care for? Yes. Just like down is harder to care for. Was it prized for just the qualities that also make washing it such a nail biter? Yes. Felt is warm, don't get me wrong, but like worsted, well... I'm no expert, but you see where I'm going? For most uses you'd be interested in felt, that doesn't matter much. It's plenty warm. Just know, that if, like me, you're about ready to throw in the towel on any wool that hasn't been boiled, and pre-felted, you might also be electing to miss out on the lightest, warmest incarnations wool has taken. Also, if you look into the history of the Great Kilt, and a lot of historical workhorse wool garments, you're looking at virgin wool that has kept as much of its lanolin as possible. Green Mountain Spinnery have an old washing machine they use to wash all the wool, and it's a whole different thing from modern agitators. If you want to know more, I'd look them up.
Thank you for sharing your wool journey, experience and discoveries! I personally adore wool, wearing it and using it quite frequently to make historical garments. With the exception of boiled or thickly felted wool, I find it to be exceptionally comfortable in even hot and humid weather. I discovered in making this video that a lot of modern wool is treated chemically to prevent shrinkage (such as wool for knitting and sweaters bought off the rack); there are a variety of chemicals that will actually seal the burrs, making the wool softer to the touch (less prickly) and preventing the locking action that causes the shrinkage. Hence why some commercially made woolen garments can safely be put through a spin cycle, while others become neutron stars of felted wool. I personally try to minimize machine washing of any garments in any case because the average modern machine does more damage to the fibers than handwashing, thereby shortening the lifespan of the garment (and I do enough damage just by wearing them in my high-action lifestyle 😅). A vintage machine would be interesting to examine; thanks for the tip!
@@thecreativecontessaGlad to hear from a wool enthusiast!
From what I understand, that chemical treatment takes the burrs right off, and then it gets called superwash wool. I know I looked into that ages ago. I can't remember my reasoning for not buying more of it. For a while I remember it seemed like the answer to all my problems. It might have been sustainability issues, or property issues. Last year I went down the rabbit hole on mercerized cotton, and the creation of rayon/viscose. That was quite the shocking picture. It might have been around then, and wiped my hard drive, so to speak.
It's interesting that you handwash your wool. My options have been to wash my garments in the bathtub, my scrubba, or in the washer. I'm at least 2XL, and I like my wool, thick, long, and over-sized. That translates to a lot of weight pulling on the fabric when it is wet. Alone, that isn't disastrous, though I tend to spend more time fiddling with the reshaping of the garment if it doesn't get spun. What alarmed me, is that I put sweaters in my Scrubba, in a garment bag, and I noticed fibers on the surface reaching up, more than I'd like. It seemed like the washer did a better job of tightening the yarn up ever so slightly, and leaving the whole thing more cohesive. That wasn't what I was expecting at all. I thought putting my clothes through the washer those first few times would spell the beginning of the end. I remember it shrinking the wool the first couple times, but not drastically. I'm curious what your routine is like. I confess I started out babying my wool with soapnuts, vinegar, then liquid castile soap, until somewhat abusing it with soap flakes and washing soda with the rest of my clothes. I am honestly still shocked that waxy sheep oil was what felted it up.
The term you’re looking for is woollen spun !
I think the best way to not end up with dry, brittle wool, is to not wash it until it smells, and to only spot treat in between. That way you put a bit of sebum of the fibers every time you handle/wear them, and it maintains the amount of oil present over time. Also, to not wash them with alcaline substances (unless you have an oil stain, then use soap, but only on the stain, and be careful, strong bases dissolve protein fibers)
Use neutral or slightly acidic washes, it lifts the dirt without stripping the fibers.
@@saulemaroussault6343 Thank you. About the bases, that would jive with my experience. I can't say I love my own sebum all over my clothes, but that is an interesting way of seeing it, and I'll have to keep an eye out. In the ancient world, when wool was such a standard, and soap was relatively rare, and oil was instead the standard for body care, I wonder if the kind of dirty the wool got made a difference in this wash cycle. Too much oil, and I'd think felting might be an issue once again, but it makes you think, right?
@@sierrasukalski2133 well lanolin is some form of sheep sebum, and it’s fine in small quantities, the same way it’s necessary for the skin, and we want to keep some !
I think that for a really oily garment they would have gone with water and a small quantity of ash, and repeated the process to clean but not too harshly? Washing with ash is a very old practice, as well as washing yourself with warm water plain, or with ash.
But also wool was not that often worn right against the skin/washing with oil is more a thing from Mediterranean regions, where plant fibers were used very early on, and oil was available. I’m not sure people from elsewhere washed themselves with the fats they had (butter, tallow, …) but I don’t think so. Also plant fibers garments were available about everywhere in Europe in the early middle ages; commerce was flourishing and we find evidence of it more and more. So people in the majority wore a linen, hemp, cotton, nettle, … garment on the skin to be comfier and to be able to wash the first layer more easily.
(Those are my understanding of the things I know, but I’m not a historian)