A few thing that can help you drift smoother: Put gyro to about 30% of a little more. When drifting rely mostly on gyro rather than steering manually. That made rwd drifting way smoother:) Turn down throttle speed setting to about 50% of less, depending on what type of drifting ur doing. Turn down steering angle to about 75%.
Thanks. Right now Steering EPA = 93% to get me out of sticky situation, gyro 40%, throttle 55%. I should add EXP so steering won't be so brutal. I also need more practice. I've been out of RWD for too long.
Hey Beaver! I have been wanting an Rc drift car for a while now, and Mini z is not accesible/too expensive in my country, banggood stuff seems good, but I want an experienced persons opinions. What do you recommend? Not too expensive and decent?
WLtoys K969 is ready to drift out of the box. You might need to fix it to make it run perfectly. I have tutorial in K989 series, just follow first 2 episodes and you'll complete the fixes. The other option is TRQ1. It's a bit slow so it's easier to drift. Also cheaper to upgrade. But the circuit board is a gamble. I still see people with burnt board or non functioning servo.
To put it simply adjustable suspension = DRZ, adjustable wheelbase = HGD1. Here's my long answer. It depends on what you are looking for. This one is easier to build and easier to drive while DRZ is harder to build and to drive but also smoother to drive and it has more adjustability. Well, "smoother to drive" is pretty debatable because I've seen some ultra smooth drift from HGD1 too. Personally I'm leaning towards DRZ because it has more adjustability which you'll need if you want to adapt the car to various situations. Or if your primary goal is to use it with 1/24 scale model kit (because there are a lot of cool cars you want to drift like some Rocket Bunny stuffs) then HGD1 is the answer.
@@dudycemed790 DRZ shares parts with other Atomic cars, mostly AMR (DRZ is based on AMR anyway) then some parts from BZ. HGD1 shares most of the parts with Mini-Q AWD. Motor mount, knuckle, pinion and spur are Mini-Q in general. Suspension is lifted directly from Q5OP.
Hey Beaver? I have the same car hgd1 but my gyro shakes so much even with gyro gain down low. Did you have any issues with the gyro? I can't get it to drift because of it. Thanks and any tip would be greatly appreciated! Keep up the great work!
I don't have gyro shake. However it can come from many, many things like the unbalanced wheels, too much vibration, slop in the knuckle or even loose linkages. Sometimes putting it in a different place also helps. Try checking these things. - Is the gyro direction corrects? Swing the car and see if it counter steers. Wrong gyro direction will shake the gyro a lot and it also won't drift. - Are the bearing in the knuckles correct? Closed bearings in the front and opened in the back. - Are the ball heads in the knuckles tightly secured? - If there's too much slop in the steering, put a rubber band on it similar to this. imgur.com/eHEUJhi - Moving gyro around and see if different position helps.
hello beaver, I'm planning to get into rc drifting, I thought of buying either the trq1 or the k989. Which one is better? Or are there any better ones for
TRQ1 is easier to drift because it's slower and it has gyro. K969 is the drift version of K989, you'll need to fix it out of the box but in the long run it has more headroom to upgrade and mod. In conclusion, the easy way = TRQ1. Hard way but better in long run = WLtoys K969.
@@olandscape Some of them are kit like this one. But it has all the components including transmitter and everything. You'll have to supply your own batteries just like the RTR. This is just not pre-assemble so you can learn how the car works. www.banggood.com/custlink/KGGmMal26R
First, Flysky Noble NB4 doesn't have onboard gyro (yet). 2nd, separated gyro is usually more responsive and accurate than built-in. However I haven't tried the new stuffs yet and these are what I know based on my experience with old stuffs. New ones like RC4GS might work just as good already.
When it's badly tune it will either randomly spin or won't turn in. But it's still smoother and more precise than HGD1. ps. Sorry, should have put some caption on there.
hi, i want to buy a 1/28 and i'm pretty undecided. Is the MINI-Z AWD Honda CIVIC Type R based on the chassis ma-020 good for touring? Can the station be changed to this model? I have a noble flysky. thank you very much
MA020 is still good but it's old now and you can't change the radio. I highly recommend you get the MA-030 EVO so you can use Noble with it. It's also better than MA-020. MA-030 also has better balance and it's very easy to drive.
Hmm.. I'm a bit hesitate to trim the side clip. I'm affraid I won't be able to put it back on mini-z later. After you trimmed your body side clip, have you tried to put it back on mini-z without issues? Thanks
Hey✌🏽 Would you sell this car rtr with the transmitter? I’ve been lookin to get myself a micro rwd drift rc for a while and but can’t seem to find something I like without having to customise the hell out of it like I’m seeing on RUclips. I wouldn’t mind building my own tho So I’d love if you could share a parts list with website links ect to build a car with good performance, I know you’ve put out videos like that but there’s always updates and it’s hard to keep track of what the best way to do it is (buy a rtr and customise or buy kit with upgrades)
I'm sorry I don't sell cars. I think the best way is to customize your own. First, the easy way. HGD1 in this video. Let's start with the transmitter & receiver. The transmitter should be comfortable for you to hold so sometimes going to a local shop is better so you can see it in person. Here are some of my picks. One of the best right now is Flysky Noble NB4: bit.ly/2FVvIdy Or if you want a simple one that works well and has all the neccesary functions, Radiolink RC4GS: bit.ly/2WSjb0G Next, the car. Of course HGD1. If you choose package 2 or 3, you'll get almost everything except body and transmitter. bit.ly/3bGj3JQ (at the moment there's only brushed motor kit left in the stock, it's package number 2, the same one I have.) As for the body, you can choose anything you like because wheelbase is adjustable. bit.ly/2CGgozp I highly recommend Nissan GT-R R33 because you also got wheels with it. Or GT86 because it's very good drift body. And that's it if you choose HGD1. It's the easiest car to start micro RWD drifting. Next, the hard way with the best car at this moment, XRX DPA. Since Atomic DRZ doesn't got the best steering and HGD1 doesn't have adjustability on every part. XRX is your best choice. godracing.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=152 You're gonna need wheels & tyres. Here's a good set. godracing.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=217 Actually wheels depends on the body you choose. I'd say get the Toyota GT86 body. bit.ly/2JJ3ZhA And 1.5mm offset narrow wheels for the front. bit.ly/2WSecRf 0mm offset wide for the rear. bit.ly/2znzs3K And get some DS racing LF-4 tyres by contacting facebook.com/DSracingthailand/ . Next, electronics. Motor & ESC from Atomic are good. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_322_433&products_id=14065 www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1024&products_id=14040 Battery bit.ly/340Liik They don't ship to Europe so if you are in the EU, look for 2S lipo 300mAh in a local store. Charger bit.ly/2V4wfR1 Plugs to convert Battery Plug (battery side) JST-XH 2.5: bit.ly/3bj4eM6 Battery Plug (ESC side) JST-PH 2.0: goo.gl/69G4zW Receiver Plug (input from ESC & servo) JST-XH 1.5: goo.gl/Mhy8pV Receiver Plug 2 (convert ESC & servo to standard receiver) : bit.ly/3aV9VQU Transmitter & receiver are from what I said earlier. Hope this helps.
40% on both cars. DRZ really is smoother from driver's perspective. But I messed up the setup on DRZ so it won't turn in to one side and will sudden spin in right turn.
I do like the look of that hdg1 and you handle it a treat here....... just wondering if you know what the max wheelbase is on those? Also does it step up in 4mm increments like other popular chassis of this scale? Thanks dude and thanks for sharing👌
I'd say get the DRZ V2. It's the best value for money because of (mildly) adjustable wheelbase. I have the GLD and it drives beautifully to the point of telepathically accurate. However while it's a brilliant car the parts quality is not up there with other cars in GL Racing brand so I suggest waiting for 2nd batch if you want the GLD. Realistically any car is a gamble for build quality these days (I've heard about too tight bearing slot on HGD1 too) so take a pick and hope for the best. Take a look at Blitz Works too, he's got both DRZ V2 and GLD. ruclips.net/channel/UCvAEMobIbI-hRIrR0NmukoQ
@@pejalai You can't go wrong with either of these. I'd say choose the chassis with these criteria: - Adjustable wheelbase from 86mm to 116mm = HGD1 - Adjustable wheelbase from 90-98mm and easy to drive = DRZ v2 - Great 94mm chassis (adjustable if you are willing to pay $50 for the upgrade chassis plate) = GLD but you should wait for the 2nd batch if you don't plan to upgrade it to full aluminium.
@@BeaversHobbyhonestly i didnt think you would respond to my comment on a 3 year old video so soon. Thank you so much for responding. I notice that you are using a 300mah battery but what if i am using a 600mah battery from k969 with brushless motoer and esc
@@BeaversHobbyi was on AliExpress and i saw a HGD2 and a HGV2. It looks very similar to the HDG1 but was a different suspension. I also saw a RC01 which looks liked a metal version of the HDG1 but at 40 USD.
@@hwelp Bigger battery gives longer runtime so yes, 600mAh will give you much longer but I can't say for certain how long will it be. HGD2/HGV2 is the version with double wishbone suspension so the shocks are better than HGD1. I haven't seen RC01 so I can't comment on that. There's HGV1 which is the all plastic version and a bit cheaper than HGD1 too.
@@BeaversHobbycan i know what is the wheel width of the car. I plan to use a 1/24 scale car body from Aoshima so i looking for the car wheelbase and width
@@LegendaryRc If you have space to drive 1/10 I'd say get the MST RMX v2. It's one of the best RWD car right now. Converting HSP to RWD is going to be a bigger money pit than K989.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Damn! that angle is insane.
A few thing that can help you drift smoother:
Put gyro to about 30% of a little more.
When drifting rely mostly on gyro rather than steering manually. That made rwd drifting way smoother:)
Turn down throttle speed setting to about 50% of less, depending on what type of drifting ur doing.
Turn down steering angle to about 75%.
Thanks. Right now Steering EPA = 93% to get me out of sticky situation, gyro 40%, throttle 55%. I should add EXP so steering won't be so brutal.
I also need more practice. I've been out of RWD for too long.
STANCED he knows
it is so cool how they get a 1/28 rwd to drift
rc has gone a long way dude
It's been on 1/10 for so long. I'm so glad now we can have it on 1/28 as well.
loved that ae86 body
I have located the partially unglued tile. Dang it, I want one of those. Need to see it on the office race course.
Glue it and hammer it down, I suppose.
Ha! I think it'll be fine. This is why I should put "lol" after comedy comments ;D
Have you considered one of the Dr!ft cars from Sturmkind? Brilliant and addictive little drift cars.
I don't know if I can get my hands on it but it's a very interesting car.
Drew fox they are cool but not really considered drifting. It’s just got a rotating wheel under it.
Hey Beaver! I have been wanting an Rc drift car for a while now, and Mini z is not accesible/too expensive in my country, banggood stuff seems good, but I want an experienced persons opinions. What do you recommend? Not too expensive and decent?
WLtoys K969 is ready to drift out of the box. You might need to fix it to make it run perfectly. I have tutorial in K989 series, just follow first 2 episodes and you'll complete the fixes.
The other option is TRQ1. It's a bit slow so it's easier to drift. Also cheaper to upgrade. But the circuit board is a gamble. I still see people with burnt board or non functioning servo.
Cool!!
I made my wltoys rear wheel drive and i suck i probably need a gyro
You really need gyro for RWD.
Woah the toe angle ..
Hi. It's been long time.
Anyway, which one do you think is better if I want to build Rwd drift 28 scale, this one or atomic DRZ?
Thanks.
To put it simply adjustable suspension = DRZ, adjustable wheelbase = HGD1.
Here's my long answer. It depends on what you are looking for. This one is easier to build and easier to drive while DRZ is harder to build and to drive but also smoother to drive and it has more adjustability. Well, "smoother to drive" is pretty debatable because I've seen some ultra smooth drift from HGD1 too.
Personally I'm leaning towards DRZ because it has more adjustability which you'll need if you want to adapt the car to various situations.
Or if your primary goal is to use it with 1/24 scale model kit (because there are a lot of cool cars you want to drift like some Rocket Bunny stuffs) then HGD1 is the answer.
@@BeaversHobby do they share similar spare parts?
@@dudycemed790 DRZ shares parts with other Atomic cars, mostly AMR (DRZ is based on AMR anyway) then some parts from BZ.
HGD1 shares most of the parts with Mini-Q AWD. Motor mount, knuckle, pinion and spur are Mini-Q in general. Suspension is lifted directly from Q5OP.
Hey Beaver? I have the same car hgd1 but my gyro shakes so much even with gyro gain down low. Did you have any issues with the gyro? I can't get it to drift because of it. Thanks and any tip would be greatly appreciated! Keep up the great work!
I don't have gyro shake. However it can come from many, many things like the unbalanced wheels, too much vibration, slop in the knuckle or even loose linkages. Sometimes putting it in a different place also helps.
Try checking these things.
- Is the gyro direction corrects? Swing the car and see if it counter steers. Wrong gyro direction will shake the gyro a lot and it also won't drift.
- Are the bearing in the knuckles correct? Closed bearings in the front and opened in the back.
- Are the ball heads in the knuckles tightly secured?
- If there's too much slop in the steering, put a rubber band on it similar to this. imgur.com/eHEUJhi
- Moving gyro around and see if different position helps.
hello beaver,
I'm planning to get into rc drifting, I thought of buying either the trq1 or the k989. Which one is better? Or are there any better ones for
TRQ1 is easier to drift because it's slower and it has gyro.
K969 is the drift version of K989, you'll need to fix it out of the box but in the long run it has more headroom to upgrade and mod.
In conclusion, the easy way = TRQ1. Hard way but better in long run = WLtoys K969.
Does all trq1s come rtr? I'm afraid that when I order it will come as a kit.
@@olandscape Some of them are kit like this one. But it has all the components including transmitter and everything. You'll have to supply your own batteries just like the RTR. This is just not pre-assemble so you can learn how the car works.
www.banggood.com/custlink/KGGmMal26R
Thanks for the suggestion! 😁
@@olandscape I forgot to mention that version I just sent you is not a drift car. Sorry, I just saw the tyres.
I noticed you use a separate gyro instead of a Flysky receiver with gyro built in. Any reason why?
First, Flysky Noble NB4 doesn't have onboard gyro (yet). 2nd, separated gyro is usually more responsive and accurate than built-in.
However I haven't tried the new stuffs yet and these are what I know based on my experience with old stuffs. New ones like RC4GS might work just as good already.
@@BeaversHobby I did not realize the Noble didn't. I have a GT5 that does but good to know about the accuracy.
whats the bonus bad tuned brz supposed to mean? even badly tune its still drift-able?
When it's badly tune it will either randomly spin or won't turn in. But it's still smoother and more precise than HGD1.
ps. Sorry, should have put some caption on there.
hi, i want to buy a 1/28 and i'm pretty undecided. Is the MINI-Z AWD Honda CIVIC Type R based on the chassis ma-020 good for touring?
Can the station be changed to this model? I have a noble flysky. thank you very much
MA020 is still good but it's old now and you can't change the radio.
I highly recommend you get the MA-030 EVO so you can use Noble with it. It's also better than MA-020. MA-030 also has better balance and it's very easy to drive.
Hi Beaver, if I want to put mini z body on hgd1 , do I have to trim the body's side mounting post as well?
Yes, you'll have to trim the side clips just a little bit. Don't need trim them all off to small stubs like other cars.
Hmm.. I'm a bit hesitate to trim the side clip. I'm affraid I won't be able to put it back on mini-z later. After you trimmed your body side clip, have you tried to put it back on mini-z without issues? Thanks
Hey✌🏽 Would you sell this car rtr with the transmitter? I’ve been lookin to get myself a micro rwd drift rc for a while and but can’t seem to find something I like without having to customise the hell out of it like I’m seeing on RUclips. I wouldn’t mind building my own tho So I’d love if you could share a parts list with website links ect to build a car with good performance, I know you’ve put out videos like that but there’s always updates and it’s hard to keep track of what the best way to do it is (buy a rtr and customise or buy kit with upgrades)
I'm sorry I don't sell cars. I think the best way is to customize your own.
First, the easy way. HGD1 in this video.
Let's start with the transmitter & receiver. The transmitter should be comfortable for you to hold so sometimes going to a local shop is better so you can see it in person.
Here are some of my picks.
One of the best right now is Flysky Noble NB4: bit.ly/2FVvIdy
Or if you want a simple one that works well and has all the neccesary functions, Radiolink RC4GS: bit.ly/2WSjb0G
Next, the car. Of course HGD1. If you choose package 2 or 3, you'll get almost everything except body and transmitter. bit.ly/3bGj3JQ (at the moment there's only brushed motor kit left in the stock, it's package number 2, the same one I have.)
As for the body, you can choose anything you like because wheelbase is adjustable. bit.ly/2CGgozp I highly recommend Nissan GT-R R33 because you also got wheels with it. Or GT86 because it's very good drift body.
And that's it if you choose HGD1. It's the easiest car to start micro RWD drifting.
Next, the hard way with the best car at this moment, XRX DPA. Since Atomic DRZ doesn't got the best steering and HGD1 doesn't have adjustability on every part. XRX is your best choice.
godracing.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=152
You're gonna need wheels & tyres. Here's a good set. godracing.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=217
Actually wheels depends on the body you choose.
I'd say get the Toyota GT86 body. bit.ly/2JJ3ZhA
And 1.5mm offset narrow wheels for the front. bit.ly/2WSecRf
0mm offset wide for the rear. bit.ly/2znzs3K
And get some DS racing LF-4 tyres by contacting facebook.com/DSracingthailand/ .
Next, electronics. Motor & ESC from Atomic are good. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_322_433&products_id=14065
www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1024&products_id=14040
Battery bit.ly/340Liik They don't ship to Europe so if you are in the EU, look for 2S lipo 300mAh in a local store.
Charger bit.ly/2V4wfR1
Plugs to convert
Battery Plug (battery side) JST-XH 2.5: bit.ly/3bj4eM6
Battery Plug (ESC side) JST-PH 2.0: goo.gl/69G4zW
Receiver Plug (input from ESC & servo) JST-XH 1.5: goo.gl/Mhy8pV
Receiver Plug 2 (convert ESC & servo to standard receiver) : bit.ly/3aV9VQU
Transmitter & receiver are from what I said earlier.
Hope this helps.
Hi, do you think a front 1.5 offset narrow, and rear 2.0 offset wide, setup be any good? I've found some cool wheels online?
Front is good. Rear 2.0 offset is too much and will make the rear much wider than the front which isn't good. You'll need 1.0 or 0 mm offset.
Beaver's Hobby 1)what if you had front and rear 2.0 or front and rear 1.5? Thanks 2) Also would a rear wide 1.0 and front narrow 1.5 work?
@@ab-mb6od Both will work. Try to keep the rear to the same offset or lower so the rear won't stick out too much.
@@BeaversHobby Ok, thnaks a lot
@@ab-mb6od My pleasure.
This thing looks really cool but damn is it expensive
Yes, very expensive at its normal price. Wait for it to get some discount.
Hey where is the a252 fpv mod video just asking
Not yet. Sorry. It'll take a while until I got time to do the mod since I got about 3 car reviews lining up right now.
Nice! What % of gyro did you use for the HGD1? DRZ actually looks smoother in this video.
40% on both cars. DRZ really is smoother from driver's perspective.
But I messed up the setup on DRZ so it won't turn in to one side and will sudden spin in right turn.
@@BeaversHobby I see :O, I'm using 35% for the HGD1. Can't wait till I get my hands on the DRZ :D
@@Auranapse It needs much more attention to build than HGD1 but I think you will have no trouble at all.
Whats best servo for hgd1?
AGF A11CLS is the best one. You might need to tinker with the slot a bit to get it exactly on the centre of the chassis.
I do like the look of that hdg1 and you handle it a treat here....... just wondering if you know what the max wheelbase is on those? Also does it step up in 4mm increments like other popular chassis of this scale? Thanks dude and thanks for sharing👌
The wheelbase goes from 86mm up to 110mm if I remember. You can step it up about 1-2mm. I do have videos on it too if you're interested :P
Ok, thank you for the reply 😊👍I'll check them videos out now 👍
@@tomwright943 Yes, that. Follow Auranapse about this car. He went further than me. I only drive the car today for the first time.
Ok thank you dude😊👌
Does K989 motor with mini-z pinion fit this car?
Yes, it does.
Hi beaver, between the Hdg1 and drz. Which one would be better to get?
I'd say get the DRZ V2. It's the best value for money because of (mildly) adjustable wheelbase. I have the GLD and it drives beautifully to the point of telepathically accurate. However while it's a brilliant car the parts quality is not up there with other cars in GL Racing brand so I suggest waiting for 2nd batch if you want the GLD.
Realistically any car is a gamble for build quality these days (I've heard about too tight bearing slot on HGD1 too) so take a pick and hope for the best.
Take a look at Blitz Works too, he's got both DRZ V2 and GLD. ruclips.net/channel/UCvAEMobIbI-hRIrR0NmukoQ
@@BeaversHobby ah.. This make decisions even harder.
@@pejalai You can't go wrong with either of these. I'd say choose the chassis with these criteria:
- Adjustable wheelbase from 86mm to 116mm = HGD1
- Adjustable wheelbase from 90-98mm and easy to drive = DRZ v2
- Great 94mm chassis (adjustable if you are willing to pay $50 for the upgrade chassis plate) = GLD but you should wait for the 2nd batch if you don't plan to upgrade it to full aluminium.
@@BeaversHobby alright. This narrow it down. Thanks. Your other respond on mini q also help a lot.
@@pejalai My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
Quick question beaver, HGD1 or DRZ for my first RWD car?
DRZ V2
@@BeaversHobby why?
@@ricardnadalbuxade5710 Better suspension and more adjustability.
Nice vid are thoese wl toys rims ?😂
They look like Wltoys but they are a bit different. These don't have grooves and they are exactly like Mini-Z wheels.
What is the maximum time you can drift until it runs out of battery
It depends on how hard you press the throttle. Normally for me I can run about 25-30 minutes until I feel a significant drop of power.
@@BeaversHobbyhonestly i didnt think you would respond to my comment on a 3 year old video so soon. Thank you so much for responding. I notice that you are using a 300mah battery but what if i am using a 600mah battery from k969 with brushless motoer and esc
@@BeaversHobbyi was on AliExpress and i saw a HGD2 and a HGV2. It looks very similar to the HDG1 but was a different suspension. I also saw a RC01 which looks liked a metal version of the HDG1 but at 40 USD.
@@hwelp Bigger battery gives longer runtime so yes, 600mAh will give you much longer but I can't say for certain how long will it be.
HGD2/HGV2 is the version with double wishbone suspension so the shocks are better than HGD1.
I haven't seen RC01 so I can't comment on that.
There's HGV1 which is the all plastic version and a bit cheaper than HGD1 too.
@@BeaversHobbycan i know what is the wheel width of the car. I plan to use a 1/24 scale car body from Aoshima so i looking for the car wheelbase and width
Can you test without gyro..
Very difficult to drive to the point that I'd say undrivable.
Body?
This one is from Firelap. It's the same as Mini-Z AE86 rc.kyosho.com/en/mzn151.html .
how hard is it to drift without a gyro
can you learn from scratch without a gyro
It's nigh impossible to drift RWD without gyro.
I've seen some people try it and either have to go very slowly or can't hold the slide for too long.
@@BeaversHobby ive seen 1/10 drifts without a gyro but maybe with 1/28 it is extremely hard
is rwd drift with gyro harder than 4wd drifting
@@LegendaryRc Yes, it's harder but it's more satisfying to drift.
@@BeaversHobby awesome man
do you think i should get a k989 or will it just end up a money pit
should i just get a hsp drift and convert that to rwd
@@LegendaryRc If you have space to drive 1/10 I'd say get the MST RMX v2. It's one of the best RWD car right now. Converting HSP to RWD is going to be a bigger money pit than K989.
Is that RC just a $100
This one is about $210 right now and does not include the transmitter and body.
@@BeaversHobby does that include the motor?
@@demonslayer9772 Yes, it includes motor, ESC, servo and gyro as well. Check out my unboxing video. ruclips.net/video/_vuN9n4P3ik/видео.html