Thank you! I like it very much. Every change they made a step in the right direction: - The new chassis plate - The dual rate shocks - The motor is connected by a tooth belt now Currently my DA3 is still a bit smoother, but that one has a lot of OP parts, more expensive motor+esc and more than one year play time. I would say the new car already has 95% of the performance of the old one (and significantly cheaper).
@@griffsminircdrift wow, sounds like DA outdone themselves, very few hop-ups will be needed for this one. Any recommendations for TX? I i have an old basic one with dual rates, endpoints and expos. Do I need a fancier one with programming? E.g. for e-breaking for throwing into a slide and transitions? Which TX are you using in this vid? Im new to 1/24 scene, I had 1:10 with 1.5 CS belt driven AWD - found out the hard way that it's way too big even for my living room ...
I'm using a FlySky Noble 4, but I can't recommend it anymore, as they are planing to make it impossible to use 3rd party receivers. In my car, I'm using an RX+Gyro combo. I would go probably with Sanwa (SANWA MT-R and MT-5 seems a reasonable priced TX): SANWA FH5: www.gt55racing.com/products/sanwa-fh5-4ch-tower-antenna-nano-gyro-receiver-with-shell3-dsk-801-multi-color-optional-gt55racing?DIST=TkFA In my car, I'm using FlySky compatible (AFHDS3) unit: www.gt55racing.com/products/gt55racing-nb4-tower-antenna-gyro-receiver-v5-dsk-505b-cnc01?DIST=TkFA FUTABA F4G: www.gt55racing.com/products/new-futaba-f-4g-tower-antenna-gyro-receiver-for-10px-dsk-407b-cnc01-gt55racing?DIST=TkFA Cheap option: Dumbo RC: www.gt55racing.com/products/dumborc-4ch-antenna-nano-gyro-receiver-x4fmg?DIST=TkFA
@@griffsminircdrift Thanks i'll check out Sanwa! But in terms of programming, do you need any extra trickery for drifting 1/24 besides endpoints/dual/expo?
my da4 does not drift as smooth as yours :( i tried changing many things but it still spins out if i get on the throttle and can not transition like yours does. it does great at slower speeds, can you help me with the measurements of what you have for alignment?
Things to check: - Clearance: - 1. Try your car without the body, just make it sure it's not a clearance issue. - 2. Other thing to check specially, if your frontend is narrow: The stem of the T shape Upper arm setup can touch your tire in full lock. - Make sure your assembly is right and everything moves freely. (Usually no problem with this, but better to check.) - Also make it sure the suspension stiffness are simmetric between left and right. My main numbers: Front width: 74mm (N+1) Rear width: 82mm (W+3.5) Wheelbase: 94.5mm (on chassis it says 96.5mm) Front Toe out: 5° Rear Toe in: 0° Front Camber: 2.5° Rear Camber: 1.5° Front Caster: 3° Servo is positioned absolutely center: screws aligned with the line between B and C. I've flipped the turn buckles to have the straight end on the servo arms. Let me know, if you need more info or help.
Awesome drifting, good work! 👍
YEAH, I love NEW Videos!!!!
Hey where is this track from ! So awesome drifting btw! I like this filming style quite a lot keep it up 👏👏
Hi! Thank you!
The track is from Drift Track Thailand: facebook.com/share/jFRY2RxagvASaHiS/
smoooooth drifts yet so little steering and throttle inputs is used, mad skillz! What is your verdict on the new chassis?
Thank you! I like it very much. Every change they made a step in the right direction:
- The new chassis plate
- The dual rate shocks
- The motor is connected by a tooth belt now
Currently my DA3 is still a bit smoother, but that one has a lot of OP parts, more expensive motor+esc and more than one year play time. I would say the new car already has 95% of the performance of the old one (and significantly cheaper).
@@griffsminircdrift wow, sounds like DA outdone themselves, very few hop-ups will be needed for this one. Any recommendations for TX? I i have an old basic one with dual rates, endpoints and expos. Do I need a fancier one with programming? E.g. for e-breaking for throwing into a slide and transitions? Which TX are you using in this vid? Im new to 1/24 scene, I had 1:10 with 1.5 CS belt driven AWD - found out the hard way that it's way too big even for my living room ...
I'm using a FlySky Noble 4, but I can't recommend it anymore, as they are planing to make it impossible to use 3rd party receivers.
In my car, I'm using an RX+Gyro combo.
I would go probably with Sanwa (SANWA MT-R and MT-5 seems a reasonable priced TX):
SANWA FH5: www.gt55racing.com/products/sanwa-fh5-4ch-tower-antenna-nano-gyro-receiver-with-shell3-dsk-801-multi-color-optional-gt55racing?DIST=TkFA
In my car, I'm using FlySky compatible (AFHDS3) unit: www.gt55racing.com/products/gt55racing-nb4-tower-antenna-gyro-receiver-v5-dsk-505b-cnc01?DIST=TkFA
FUTABA F4G: www.gt55racing.com/products/new-futaba-f-4g-tower-antenna-gyro-receiver-for-10px-dsk-407b-cnc01-gt55racing?DIST=TkFA
Cheap option:
Dumbo RC: www.gt55racing.com/products/dumborc-4ch-antenna-nano-gyro-receiver-x4fmg?DIST=TkFA
@@griffsminircdrift Thanks i'll check out Sanwa! But in terms of programming, do you need any extra trickery for drifting 1/24 besides endpoints/dual/expo?
Ch3 (gyro sensitivity), should be adjustable from the transmitter. Good response time. Nothing very fancy or special.
my da4 does not drift as smooth as yours :( i tried changing many things but it still spins out if i get on the throttle and can not transition like yours does. it does great at slower speeds, can you help me with the measurements of what you have for alignment?
Things to check:
- Clearance:
- 1. Try your car without the body, just make it sure it's not a clearance issue.
- 2. Other thing to check specially, if your frontend is narrow: The stem of the T shape Upper arm setup can touch your tire in full lock.
- Make sure your assembly is right and everything moves freely. (Usually no problem with this, but better to check.)
- Also make it sure the suspension stiffness are simmetric between left and right.
My main numbers:
Front width: 74mm (N+1)
Rear width: 82mm (W+3.5)
Wheelbase: 94.5mm (on chassis it says 96.5mm)
Front Toe out: 5°
Rear Toe in: 0°
Front Camber: 2.5°
Rear Camber: 1.5°
Front Caster: 3°
Servo is positioned absolutely center: screws aligned with the line between B and C.
I've flipped the turn buckles to have the straight end on the servo arms.
Let me know, if you need more info or help.