Instead of writing my own comment, I will simply quote Ms. Mott's comment "This is well done, easy to understand and SO HELPFUL, thank you thank you THANK YOU!!!" 2
Great how to video. I used your method last weekend on a remodel project I'm working on. Changed up the method a little because I had a mix of Anderson 400 and 100 windows. The 400s didn't have any depth (window took up the full depth of the 4 1/2" wall).
Thanks for the feedback. I hope your sills turned out great. I was using a 16-ga here with 2 1/2” nails. But I’ve gone to using an 18-ga with 2” nails most of the time now.
So sorry for this incredibly late response. Clearly I’m not paying enough attention to my channel. I’m sure you’ve discovered by now a solution to your problem. I suppose there are several, but in my opinion, to get the best result with full casings, you’ve got to redo the sills and make them long enough. Builders aren’t always very thoughtful. As a standard, even if a client doesn’t want window casings at the time of the build, I cut the sills long enough so they can add casings at any time down the road.
You set it up the same, but then use something to make a radius curve rather than just cutting it square out at the point that represents the intersection of the window jamb and wall. I sometimes just use a quarter (coin) if the bullnose is 3/4” bull nose.
Hey nice instruction, thank you. I'm wondering if you recommend for caulking to be applied around the perimeter where the sill makes contact with the window and drywall?
Thank You so much!! Yes I will. I've got one in the works for some various wall accents as well as trimming out an archway in some cool reclaimed lumber. I'm excited to do that one.
I’d like to build sills like these to put heavier sound proofing windows on then screw in the window frame. Can a sill like this support the weight of a whole window itself?
First of all thank you this video was perfect. The only question I have is my window has exposed metal clamps holding it to the cement. Placing the sill next to it it leaves a gap of about 3/8 between the sill and the 2x4, should I just fill the gap with plywood? As the sill is mdf I’m concerned that not having a full length board it will sag or give too much.
Basement/foundation framing can complicate it a little. I'd be inclined to make sure I had a shim to fill that gap--maybe one shim every 10-12". Once you have the apron under the front, and then you caulk it all in, it really shouldn't budge unless it's going to get stepped on a bunch, which is unlikely in basement. Good luck! Thanks so much for the feedback!
Thank you so much I used a combination of shims and 3/8" plywood to fill in the gaps and make them level. they turned out perfect. Again, fantastic video best I have found on the subject.
Great vid thanks! Do you put the MDF boards through your router table or just use a plunge router at the job site? ALSO, do they need sanded after routing the edges? 👍😄
Hi Ross: yeah, i use my little triimmer router on site, and yes, the edges really should be sanded, though I didn't in this video. (Mass production, low-budget, blah, blah, etc... ;) ). Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the video. Trim delivery is in 3 days and I was still a little murky on the sill. This video helps. Quick question - for craftsman style case and trim such as this, no return on the ends of the apron or the head piece?
You're welcome! Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, if it's just craftsman style flat trim, I don't build returns. I simply put a routered edge on each end--usually 1/8" roundover, but whatever seems to match what's machined on the factory finished edges. Good luck!
Great video man !!! Did you begin your career as a finish carpenter? I'm in the process of beginning an apprenticeship and an opportunity to begin as a finish carpenter came my way . But my issue is that it my hinder me on being well rounded. Would really like to hear your thoughts .
Thank You! I'm so glad to hear you enjoyed the video. So you're wondering whether becoming too specialized will hinder you on becoming a better generalist in construction? I'd actually argue that your experience as a finish carpenter will make you BETTER at everything else, as far as being someone whose workmanship is precise. As a finish carpenter, you'll frequently be dealing with 1/32 and even 1/64" precision on your cuts and measurements. It'll apply to other trades as well. Good luck!
Hey there! Yes. That is by far the most widely used "wood" for trim around here. I get pretty excited when someone actually uses a hardwood. I suppose I do get to use a bit of alder or oak on railings but most of the trim we use is MDF.
We use a lot of mdf here in utah where we have a really dry climate. However, if you want to use actual wood--and I think you should--poplar is a great hardwood that has TIGHT grains and paints up flawlessly.
I live in a very dry climate, so MDF gets used a lot. It's cheap and easy to work with. If you live in a wetter climate, you'll want actual wood and I'd recommend using poplar. It paints up really nicely and is very durable.
I just installed oak window cills and wanted to clear coat with polyurethane oil base but can't seem to find any putty to fill nail holes that will match everything I've tried shows through any suggestions
I use Elmer's stainable wood filler from time to time. It seems to work well with lighter colored woods. Outside of that, I'm really not sure. I'm usually just the guy who makes the nail holes, and leaves a painter to figure out the rest ;) Best of luck!
Hi John. Sorry for the slow reply. I have used cedar. I actually love when I get to. I love the look of it, both rough-sawn and smooth finish. I actually did an entire basement with cedar trim--the windows, the baseboards, and a wainscot.
would you recommend putting a slope to the window sill so if any moisture gathers it wont seep behind and under the window or its ok to keep it leveled? we're putting in a sill right now and are stuck on that thought since we'll have plants and stuff sitting on it.
Hi Jeremy. Sorry for the late response. If your window is flashed properly, hopefully you don't have to worry about enough moisture to make any difference. I'd set it level and not sloped, mostly so it can be utilized as a shelf if someone wanted to. If not, there's probably nothing wrong with some slope if you like.
@@paysonbiker no worries thanks for the reply. The wood we used for the sill had a natural slope to it anyways, so we just put it flat and let it do its thing.
@@paysonbiker Thanks for answering this question Wade. I was wondering what kind of nails you were using, finish or brad. I just bought a Ridgid brad nailer from Home Depot to replace my crappy harbor freight 3 in one nailer which does brad, finish nails & staples. I believe I have learned my lesson from buying tools such as that from harbor freight lol. So I should be good to use 18 gauge brad nails to set the sill in place, only reason I'm asking is because brads are a thinner gauge than finish nails & I'm just worried about movement over time. Also great video Wade I like how you were explaining everything step by step, have a great day sir.
Hi Andrew. So, if I'm doing a sill on a window that won't get any casing trim, I make the apron 1" shorter than the sill, giving a 1/2" reveal on either side. Or, if I am putting on casing trim, I might cut the apron more precisely the same as the measurement from outside left casing to outside right casing, if that makes sense.
ruclips.net/video/VRkDkuFNZLI/видео.htmlm54s I'm confused how you level front to back and then put a nail in, how does that hold it level without a shim underneath? thanks for answer
Good question. I should have been more clear. So, I pick a reveal along the back of the sill to the vinyl. (The amount of vinyl I want showing above the back of the sill.) Then I use or make shims to achieve that, and only set them along the back. Once I set the sill in, I put a nail in each place I have a shim. Now I level the sill front to back by leveling and then just putting a nail or two. You are correct that this wouldn't be sufficient to hold it from ever moving. What I failed to add was, after I nail the apron on below, it's actually now holding the sill from being able to move downward. After that, I go back and put 2 or 3 more nails through the sill into the wall framing, if that makes sense. In other words, along the front edge of the sill, I'm relying on my apron to be the "shims."
so the 2 finish nails aren't enough to really pull the sill out of level, since they don't have much of a head on them, but it's enough to temporarily hold it in place, yet still can make minor adjustment for level when putting the apron on - makes sense, thanks!
You've got it. Thanks again for asking for more details. I try and think of everything, but sometimes become so second nature that I forget to explain the little things, and then I confuse people. Haha. I actually thought again of your question today while doing some sills in a new house. What you brought up is actually not a small detail but something I definitely should have included in the video.
You can get a full 4x8 sheet of it and make rips, but this is pre-milled. We get it as the 5/4 x 6 x 16' board. It has 2 finished edges (roundover) and is pre-primered.
@@paysonbiker the thinking behind nailing a sill down is that is any water can penetrate through the hole where the nail is where if glue is used there isn't an entrance created for water to get into the timber.
As a former biology student, I LOVE the metric system!! I agree the U.S. needs to switch. I cannot say why they haven't. I'll help you out though: 2.54cm = 1in. So now you do the conversions if it helps ;)
This is well done, easy to understand and SO HELPFUL, thank you thank you THANK YOU!!!
Thanks so much! I'm glad you found it helpful. I'm hoping to post a how-to on closet organizers next. :)
This is great! I always come back to your video when I need a refresher before trimming out a window! Thanks!
You should be VERY proud of the work you do. Great job, and excellent explanation! Kudos!!
Thank you!
My contractors would have just used caulk over any imperfection, nice to see someone taking the time to do it right
Thanks for that feedback. Unfortunately, too many go for speed and nothing else. Quality suffers.
Instead of writing my own comment, I will simply quote Ms. Mott's comment "This is well done, easy to understand and SO HELPFUL, thank you thank you THANK YOU!!!"
2
Thank You so much!!!
I've got a job full of sills coming up. I have one of those angle finders but, it never works out in my favor. This application may be the first
This video was exactly what I've been looking for.
Thanks for watching, Mike. I hope it was helpful. Good luck with your sills!
Just followed what you did and said. The result is incredibly amazing. Thanks a lot.
Thank You!!! I really appreciate it!
Thanks for a very clear explanation -well done!
Great tutorial bro… thanks for the tips 👍🏻👊🏻
I thought I wasn't going to learn a dang thing today! Now I know how to lay out a window sill! Thank's for the edgamacation!
Haha! You bet!
As soon as you started saying it in inches my brain exploded! Can you do a metric version? 😂
Excellent, simple, and very helpful. Thanks for the DIY video. Off to case some windows now!
Thanks so much, Eugenio! I appreciate the kindness. And good luck with the windows :)
We use this as reference every time we need to create Window Sills. thanks
That's awesome! Thanks for watching!
Excellent detailed instructions! Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback, JT! I appreciate it.
Great how to video. I used your method last weekend on a remodel project I'm working on. Changed up the method a little because I had a mix of Anderson 400 and 100 windows. The 400s didn't have any depth (window took up the full depth of the 4 1/2" wall).
Wow! Those are some expensive windows I'll bet! Glad you liked the video. I really appreciate the feedback.
Thank you very helpful!
Great video! Will be using this to make 4 window sills!
Thank You! Good luck on the window sills!
Thank you for the tips & also on how to use the t-angle.
Thank You! I appreciate the feedback!
Thanks, Wade!
You're welcome!
nice step by step video wish i would have seen before i did my seals at house, what gauge nailer did you use?
Thanks for the feedback. I hope your sills turned out great. I was using a 16-ga here with 2 1/2” nails. But I’ve gone to using an 18-ga with 2” nails most of the time now.
Awesome video thank you!
Glad you liked it. Thank You!
Thanks Wade!
Wade great video. Builder cheated, cut all existing cills to short for standard window trim. Is only solution replace all cills? Thanks
So sorry for this incredibly late response. Clearly I’m not paying enough attention to my channel. I’m sure you’ve discovered by now a solution to your problem. I suppose there are several, but in my opinion, to get the best result with full casings, you’ve got to redo the sills and make them long enough. Builders aren’t always very thoughtful. As a standard, even if a client doesn’t want window casings at the time of the build, I cut the sills long enough so they can add casings at any time down the road.
@@paysonbiker No problem! Going replace cills
Adding window sills and apron only to windows but my wall corner are bull nose any tips to do this?
You set it up the same, but then use something to make a radius curve rather than just cutting it square out at the point that represents the intersection of the window jamb and wall. I sometimes just use a quarter (coin) if the bullnose is 3/4” bull nose.
Just a quick question, At 5:40 what did you do to adjust the square as the wall wasn't square,well detailed video 👍
thank you 🙏
Hey nice instruction, thank you. I'm wondering if you recommend for caulking to be applied around the perimeter where the sill makes contact with the window and drywall?
Yes on the caulking. Silicone or paintable silicone blend type caulking.
Tremendous work! Will you be doing more videos like this soon?
Thank You so much!! Yes I will. I've got one in the works for some various wall accents as well as trimming out an archway in some cool reclaimed lumber. I'm excited to do that one.
Very helpful
I’d like to build sills like these to put heavier sound proofing windows on then screw in the window frame. Can a sill like this support the weight of a whole window itself?
Thx for sharing
Can u mention the measuring unit of window sill..is it in numbers or in meter square. Sorry for this silly question but I have doubt.😕
First of all thank you this video was perfect. The only question I have is my window has exposed metal clamps holding it to the cement. Placing the sill next to it it leaves a gap of about 3/8 between the sill and the 2x4, should I just fill the gap with plywood? As the sill is mdf I’m concerned that not having a full length board it will sag or give too much.
Basement/foundation framing can complicate it a little. I'd be inclined to make sure I had a shim to fill that gap--maybe one shim every 10-12". Once you have the apron under the front, and then you caulk it all in, it really shouldn't budge unless it's going to get stepped on a bunch, which is unlikely in basement. Good luck! Thanks so much for the feedback!
Thank you so much I used a combination of shims and 3/8" plywood to fill in the gaps and make them level. they turned out perfect. Again, fantastic video best I have found on the subject.
Thanks so much! I'm glad the video helped. Nicely done on your own sills!
Great vid thanks! Do you put the MDF boards through your router table or just use a plunge router at the job site?
ALSO, do they need sanded after routing the edges? 👍😄
Hi Ross: yeah, i use my little triimmer router on site, and yes, the edges really should be sanded, though I didn't in this video. (Mass production, low-budget, blah, blah, etc... ;) ). Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the video. Trim delivery is in 3 days and I was still a little murky on the sill. This video helps.
Quick question - for craftsman style case and trim such as this, no return on the ends of the apron or the head piece?
You're welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
Yeah, if it's just craftsman style flat trim, I don't build returns. I simply put a routered edge on each end--usually 1/8" roundover, but whatever seems to match what's machined on the factory finished edges.
Good luck!
Very Well Done! FR
Thanks so much!
Thanks 💯💯✌
Great video man !!! Did you begin your career as a finish carpenter? I'm in the process of beginning an apprenticeship and an opportunity to begin as a finish carpenter came my way . But my issue is that it my hinder me on being well rounded. Would really like to hear your thoughts .
Thank You! I'm so glad to hear you enjoyed the video. So you're wondering whether becoming too specialized will hinder you on becoming a better generalist in construction? I'd actually argue that your experience as a finish carpenter will make you BETTER at everything else, as far as being someone whose workmanship is precise. As a finish carpenter, you'll frequently be dealing with 1/32 and even 1/64" precision on your cuts and measurements. It'll apply to other trades as well. Good luck!
Wade Haskell Thanks for the insight !!!
Were you using a manufactured wood for the stoop (sill)? Like MDF?
Hey there! Yes. That is by far the most widely used "wood" for trim around here. I get pretty excited when someone actually uses a hardwood. I suppose I do get to use a bit of alder or oak on railings but most of the trim we use is MDF.
What wood is best for a sill that will be painted?
We use a lot of mdf here in utah where we have a really dry climate. However, if you want to use actual wood--and I think you should--poplar is a great hardwood that has TIGHT grains and paints up flawlessly.
Thanks. Hate to ask a stupid question but is the sill installed over the window shims or do I cut the shims off flush with the window?
I live in a very dry climate, so MDF gets used a lot. It's cheap and easy to work with. If you live in a wetter climate, you'll want actual wood and I'd recommend using poplar. It paints up really nicely and is very durable.
I just installed oak window cills and wanted to clear coat with polyurethane oil base but can't seem to find any putty to fill nail holes that will match everything I've tried shows through any suggestions
I use Elmer's stainable wood filler from time to time. It seems to work well with lighter colored woods. Outside of that, I'm really not sure. I'm usually just the guy who makes the nail holes, and leaves a painter to figure out the rest ;)
Best of luck!
Nice work, Have you ever made it with cedar wood????
Hi John. Sorry for the slow reply. I have used cedar. I actually love when I get to. I love the look of it, both rough-sawn and smooth finish. I actually did an entire basement with cedar trim--the windows, the baseboards, and a wainscot.
@@paysonbiker thanks working on finishing my windows sills and casing it in cedar...., Thanks again John
Good instruction but turn the camera phone side ways. WIDESCREEN
I know it, Man. I'm sorry. I intend to fix it. Thanks for the reminder though, and thanks for watching.
What size nails do I use?
@@iskyambernal6674 I use 2 1/2" 16ga. For sills, hanging doors, shelving. 2" 18ga on most other things.
would you recommend putting a slope to the window sill so if any moisture gathers it wont seep behind and under the window or its ok to keep it leveled? we're putting in a sill right now and are stuck on that thought since we'll have plants and stuff sitting on it.
Hi Jeremy. Sorry for the late response. If your window is flashed properly, hopefully you don't have to worry about enough moisture to make any difference. I'd set it level and not sloped, mostly so it can be utilized as a shelf if someone wanted to. If not, there's probably nothing wrong with some slope if you like.
@@paysonbiker no worries thanks for the reply. The wood we used for the sill had a natural slope to it anyways, so we just put it flat and let it do its thing.
How many nails and what size is required?
To set a sill, I use probably 3 across the back, and another 3 or 4 across the front. I use 16-ga, but 18's would easily do. I'd use 2-2 1/2".
@@paysonbiker Thanks for answering this question Wade. I was wondering what kind of nails you were using, finish or brad. I just bought a Ridgid brad nailer from Home Depot to replace my crappy harbor freight 3 in one nailer which does brad, finish nails & staples. I believe I have learned my lesson from buying tools such as that from harbor freight lol. So I should be good to use 18 gauge brad nails to set the sill in place, only reason I'm asking is because brads are a thinner gauge than finish nails & I'm just worried about movement over time. Also great video Wade I like how you were explaining everything step by step, have a great day sir.
Do a how to video on how not to shoot a vertical video !
Haha. I know. I'm so sorry for this one being filmed that way.
your apron got its dimension from where??
Hi Andrew. So, if I'm doing a sill on a window that won't get any casing trim, I make the apron 1" shorter than the sill, giving a 1/2" reveal on either side. Or, if I am putting on casing trim, I might cut the apron more precisely the same as the measurement from outside left casing to outside right casing, if that makes sense.
Thought that was a stool
What size nails are you using?
Hi Marvin:
to set the sills, I'm using 16-gauge finish nails. They're 2 1/2" long.
ruclips.net/video/VRkDkuFNZLI/видео.htmlm54s I'm confused how you level front to back and then put a nail in, how does that hold it level without a shim underneath? thanks for answer
Good question. I should have been more clear. So, I pick a reveal along the back of the sill to the vinyl. (The amount of vinyl I want showing above the back of the sill.) Then I use or make shims to achieve that, and only set them along the back. Once I set the sill in, I put a nail in each place I have a shim. Now I level the sill front to back by leveling and then just putting a nail or two. You are correct that this wouldn't be sufficient to hold it from ever moving. What I failed to add was, after I nail the apron on below, it's actually now holding the sill from being able to move downward. After that, I go back and put 2 or 3 more nails through the sill into the wall framing, if that makes sense. In other words, along the front edge of the sill, I'm relying on my apron to be the "shims."
so the 2 finish nails aren't enough to really pull the sill out of level, since they don't have much of a head on them, but it's enough to temporarily hold it in place, yet still can make minor adjustment for level when putting the apron on - makes sense, thanks!
You've got it. Thanks again for asking for more details. I try and think of everything, but sometimes become so second nature that I forget to explain the little things, and then I confuse people. Haha. I actually thought again of your question today while doing some sills in a new house. What you brought up is actually not a small detail but something I definitely should have included in the video.
plz make your videos horizontal
put the small piece at the bottom not that Im any pro just saw it
The chunky header? What's it made from?
It's MDF (medium-density fiberboard). Super common paint-grade trim material. It's called 5/4 x 6" header. It's 5 1/2" tall and 1" thick.
+Wade Haskell ohhhh nice! So it's just a rip from an mdf sheet. Awesome thanks man
You can get a full 4x8 sheet of it and make rips, but this is pre-milled. We get it as the 5/4 x 6 x 16' board. It has 2 finished edges (roundover) and is pre-primered.
Superb fit but never nail a sill
Always use an adhesive.
Thanks for the feedback! Can you expound a bit on why adhesive is the way to go? In 14 years I've only seen it done that way once.
@@paysonbiker the thinking behind nailing a sill down is that is any water can penetrate through the hole where the nail is where if glue is used there isn't an entrance created for water to get into the timber.
It should be 90 angle why was you measure the angle of the window if it not 90 then you should fire the one who install the window n the drywall guy
Man, I wish it was like that. My job would be so easy! But the window jambs are more often than not something other than perfect 90's.
They told me there’d be no math...
this guy is the reason common core math was created
That's a funny comment. What do you mean by it?
That's not the sill, it's the stool. The sill is outside.
West Coast vs East Coast, my friend.
5 15/16 man make it 6inches
Some days I might. Other days, I'm very precise, to the 1/32 of an inch.
Knows how to make window sills. But not how to make credit rolls.
A stool, not a sill.
It seems that it really depends on where you're from. I'm in Utah. Here, it's a sill. I'm happy to let you call it a stool. :)
Thanks for watching!
fractions ! wtf.... metric.. metric millimeters please. the whole world is metric. . catch up yank.
As a former biology student, I LOVE the metric system!! I agree the U.S. needs to switch. I cannot say why they haven't.
I'll help you out though: 2.54cm = 1in. So now you do the conversions if it helps ;)