Check out our results using powder coat paint on acrylic: ruclips.net/video/VN1ih-nTdiI/видео.html and multi color powder coat sign: ruclips.net/video/b2pmgTi1wKE/видео.html ⭐ OUR Monport DISCOUNT LINK: bit.ly/3MGfvv6 or use code ANONYMOUS10⭐
Perfect results with the heat gun and the masking tape, lovely! That powder looks just like the embossing powder scrapbookers use to decorate stamped glicerine, so you will be able to find it in a lot of colours and finishes, including glitter.
I've been using my Monport 40W CO2 Laser for a few months now, and I'm really impressed with its power and precision. It's a great machine for engraving wood and other materials, and it's easy to use thanks to the intuitive LightBurn software. I love this!!!
Nice to see an unique application.👍 Actually, the laser could be made to mimic the heatgun, by defocusing a bit(intentionally lowering the bed down by a few mm), increasing the power and doing a flood fill(rastering a rectangle(adjusting speed not to burn,but just enough to melt), that contains the artwork). It should be pretty close to heatgun method(may have to do second pass/filling similar to heatgun). The masking is a good idea, without which, this may not work. Just some suggestions....
That is a great suggestion of defocusing the laser. We didn't think of that. A problem that we would have with doing that is are z height needs to be manually adjusted (change shims beneath our honeycomb bed) which would obviously move where our engraving is for the second pass. However if we had a more high end laser, with the z bed adjustment, this would be great! Thanks for watching!
@ProjectAnonymous_Duo Yes, you are correct, that you cannot trace the artwork, when you defocus, since it will shift a bit. But, it should work fine, if you are just scanning a bunch of closely spaced lines covering the artwork and a little more(in the melting pass). Nothing different to applying hot air to melt the powder. Except, it is a hands off process once dialed in, with no worries of blowing out the powder. You could setup the scanlines in a different layer(just overlap artwork and have additional margin to allow for defocus shift), enable it during melting pass(es). I understand, you don't have powered z-lift. But, if you use pegs(or magnets) on honeycomb, and align the artwork, lowering the honeycomb will not be an issue(as simple as removing the raisers). Again melting pass does not need accurate repositioning, since it is a rectangular area slightly larger than artwork.
The laser White turned more silver interesting. Father daughter duo still ! Love It Do you do embroidery anymore? And Girlie you are already so beautiful you really do not need makeup!
Hi! Thanks for your comment and watching our video! We still do embroidery when we have new topics to cover or ideas to share. Our most recent video was regarding the Ink/Stitch v3.1 update.
We are curious about that too, if it holds up well this is a cool application and opens up lots of possibilities for plaques, awards, etc.. Thanks for watching!
I love using powder coat on my laser engraving. For me I could never get a good application using masking, I end up prefinishing my board first with a clearcoat so that the powder doesn’t stain the wood. I do a very deep engrave and fill twice with powder coat to ensure proper melt and adhesion. If it’s not fully cured through there could be powder under the top layer of cured paint and any flex in the wood will pop it right out ( ask me how I know.. LOL)
Thanks for the tip! We have tried pre-sealing the wood in other projects, but can never seam to get rid of the excess powder coating after spreading it into the engraving. Masking makes it so we don't have to be perfect in our application. Also, great point of the powder coating not being cured under a thin top layer. Thanks for watching!
It would be interesting to try some multi color engravings. You would have to remask after each attempt. Just build a jig (I use magnets) to be able to remove and replace the work each time.
We have read: “Any oven used for powder coating should never again be used for food.” Unfortunately, we don't have a dedicated oven to do this. Thanks for watching.
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Check out our results using powder coat paint on acrylic: ruclips.net/video/VN1ih-nTdiI/видео.html and multi color powder coat sign: ruclips.net/video/b2pmgTi1wKE/видео.html ⭐ OUR Monport DISCOUNT LINK: bit.ly/3MGfvv6 or use code ANONYMOUS10⭐
It nice to see that father and. daughter share the same interest. Thank you for showing me a new product for my laser machine
Thanks for your comment and support!
Perfect results with the heat gun and the masking tape, lovely! That powder looks just like the embossing powder scrapbookers use to decorate stamped glicerine, so you will be able to find it in a lot of colours and finishes, including glitter.
Thanks for sharing and watching!
I've been using my Monport 40W CO2 Laser for a few months now, and I'm really impressed with its power and precision. It's a great machine for engraving wood and other materials, and it's easy to use thanks to the intuitive LightBurn software. I love this!!!
That is great to hear, we have really enjoyed using ours too. Thanks so much for sharing your experience!😀
Nice to see an unique application.👍 Actually, the laser could be made to mimic the heatgun, by defocusing a bit(intentionally lowering the bed down by a few mm), increasing the power and doing a flood fill(rastering a rectangle(adjusting speed not to burn,but just enough to melt), that contains the artwork). It should be pretty close to heatgun method(may have to do second pass/filling similar to heatgun). The masking is a good idea, without which, this may not work. Just some suggestions....
That is a great suggestion of defocusing the laser. We didn't think of that. A problem that we would have with doing that is are z height needs to be manually adjusted (change shims beneath our honeycomb bed) which would obviously move where our engraving is for the second pass. However if we had a more high end laser, with the z bed adjustment, this would be great! Thanks for watching!
@ProjectAnonymous_Duo Yes, you are correct, that you cannot trace the artwork, when you defocus, since it will shift a bit. But, it should work fine, if you are just scanning a bunch of closely spaced lines covering the artwork and a little more(in the melting pass). Nothing different to applying hot air to melt the powder. Except, it is a hands off process once dialed in, with no worries of blowing out the powder.
You could setup the scanlines in a different layer(just overlap artwork and have additional margin to allow for defocus shift), enable it during melting pass(es). I understand, you don't have powered z-lift. But, if you use pegs(or magnets) on honeycomb, and align the artwork, lowering the honeycomb will not be an issue(as simple as removing the raisers). Again melting pass does not need accurate repositioning, since it is a rectangular area slightly larger than artwork.
I always wondered if powder coat would work or not, but never got around to trying it out. Thanks for doing the legwork on that one.
Thanks for watching!
I just tried white powder coat on a lasered project and didnt have the greatest results. I used the heat gun - will keep trying
Magnets work great to keep thin sheet stock down to the honeycomb bed!
Our honeycomb bed is mad of aluminum so unfortunately, magnets won't work for us. Great tip for those with steel honeycomb beds. Thanks for watching!
The laser White turned more silver interesting. Father daughter duo still ! Love It Do you do embroidery anymore? And Girlie you are already so beautiful you really do not need makeup!
Hi! Thanks for your comment and watching our video! We still do embroidery when we have new topics to cover or ideas to share. Our most recent video was regarding the Ink/Stitch v3.1 update.
Very interesting. I wonder how well it will hold up over time?
We are curious about that too, if it holds up well this is a cool application and opens up lots of possibilities for plaques, awards, etc.. Thanks for watching!
I love using powder coat on my laser engraving. For me I could never get a good application using masking, I end up prefinishing my board first with a clearcoat so that the powder doesn’t stain the wood. I do a very deep engrave and fill twice with powder coat to ensure proper melt and adhesion. If it’s not fully cured through there could be powder under the top layer of cured paint and any flex in the wood will pop it right out ( ask me how I know.. LOL)
Thanks for the tip! We have tried pre-sealing the wood in other projects, but can never seam to get rid of the excess powder coating after spreading it into the engraving. Masking makes it so we don't have to be perfect in our application. Also, great point of the powder coating not being cured under a thin top layer. Thanks for watching!
It would be interesting to try some multi color engravings. You would have to remask after each attempt. Just build a jig (I use magnets) to be able to remove and replace the work each time.
We look forward to testing out the use of powder coat paint in various ways. Thanks for commenting!
How long did it take with the heat gun?
It took about 7-10 seconds on the low setting. You can tell it is set when the texture looks wet. Thanks for watching!
Have you tried a IR heat source on the powercoat to avoind forced air?
We haven't, but only because we don't have an IR heat source. Great tip, thanks for sharing!
Thank you very much! This helps me a lot.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Can you pot a link to the masking tape that you use?
Transfer/masking tape we used: amzn.to/3OTOQMG
How long did you apply the heat gun to the logo?
It took about 7-10 seconds on the low setting. You can tell it is set when the texture looks wet. Thanks for watching!
Why not try to melt the powder coating in the oven, just like everything else that is powder coated?
We have read: “Any oven used for powder coating should never again be used for food.” Unfortunately, we don't have a dedicated oven to do this. Thanks for watching.
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Great info, thank you and sub'd
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