You are the Bob Ross of ceramics 😁 Great tutorial. Thank you. I sculpt.. i have tried using a wheel , but am so so bad at it 😂 I'll stick to making dragons and fish i think xx 🥰🕊️
very good & thorough i watched to remind myself how to use the sodium silicate (which i previously did on slabs which we rolled with rolling pins after drying the S.S.... & instead of just a SS lesson, i got a wheel lesson as well...& great tips i truly appreciate! (Like how the sodium silicate can dry on the lid and cut you when you open it, or how you need to wire cut the bottom of the pot even if you’re going to leave it on the bed so that it doesn’t dry and evenly and crack…) thank u 🙏🏼 so much ur a good teacher & a good video maker 🌺🤓
Yes you can reuse the clay. A little does not adversely effect the clay, usually it gets wedged into a larger piece. Sodium silicate is normally used in casting clays to reduce the amount of water needed to make slip which reduces the shrinkage and cracking. Some people will use a deflocculated slip for joining clay together like with handles. Good luck.
Hi Sir. I finally had a go with sodium silicate brushed on my vase, and the result was absolutely beautiful! I am so keen to do again and think if I apply on functional wares, how do go about glazing it? I have not seen any videos which demonstrate that. What do you think? Thank you!
Hi! Thank you for sharing this was so useful. I have made a bowl from a slip with sodium silicate and now i wonder if i should clean it off the bottom like i would with glaze? Like should i avoid sodium silicate on my kiln shelves?:)
Oh, thank you so much. I purchased one such bowl a long time ago and always wondered how it is made. Do you buy the sodium silicate ready made or do you make it yourself? I really appreciate your clear explanations.
Hi Gabriele, You can purchase sodium silicate at any ceramic supplier. I am in Southern California and both Aardvark Clay and Supplies and Laguna clay both carry it. A little goes a long way so you do not need much and also make sure you clean the threads on the jar and close it tight when you are done.
Do you happen to know why this happens? Is it just that sodium silicate creates a quick drying layer that then can be cracked? I think I have seen people do this technique with plain old slip without any sodium silicate in it and it works as well..
The sodium silicate when dried on the clay creates a thin shell, almost like an egg shell, on the clays surface. When the clay is stretched from the inside the shell just cracks and is so well stuck to the clay it cracks the clay with it. Be careful because it is called water glass for a reason, the small pieces can cut you. The surface is sometimes dried with powdered clay but I find this is easier and works better. A variation is to apply a colored slip, allow it to dry to the touch and then the sodium silicate, dry it and stretch. The way to get the surface to crack without the sodium silicate is to dry the surface only and keep the inside of the wall plastic which can be done with thicker pieces.
I have tried this now a few times, and I am getting a bit better. However, most of my cracks are vertical and fairly deep. They look nice enough (for a beginner pot), but I would like to have more of the smaller cracks and also some horizontal ones. I do not know which the variable is that I need to change: wheel speed, amount of sodium silicate, length of drying? Do you have any suggestion?
It is hard to say without helping you in person. My best guess is to make sure the sodium silicate is dry to the touch before stretching. I hope that helps, keep practicing and you will fine tune it to your taste. good luck, Richard
You are correct. I glaze inside, top, bottom then wax on to of the glaze. Allow the wax resist to dry then wipe away with a damp sponge the excess glaze to the waxed line. I then brush a watery wash over the texture and finally clean the high areas with a damp sponge. Be sure to keep rinsing the sponge in water as you wipe. I made a video of the process for you : ruclips.net/video/VsxIdqovN8Y/видео.html Thanks, Richard
Thanks a lot for such a detailed presentation...I want to venture into CLAY :-) please advise me some good book to start with.. 1: On clay 2: On Glaze chemistry 3 : On firing etc. Or do i need to join any class...plz advise how to start my journey...Regards
Hi Satyan, Thanks for watching! The current general book that I had for my students is by Vince Pitelka, Clay A Studio Handbook The Classic book on clay and glaze chemistry is by Daniel Rhodes who taught at Alfred, Clay and Glazes for the Potter. It is a little dense and good as a reference book although a little outdated with the use of lead in glazes which is frowned on nowadays. For glazes the best books are by John Britt: The Complete Guide to High-Fire Glazes which has been organized in a very clear way with great images (remember pictures are never as good as testing glazes yourself in your kiln). John also has a book on cone 4-7 glazes: The Complete Guide to Mid-Range Glazes, Glazing and Firing at Cones 4-7. A great reference is The Potters Dictionary of Materials and Techniques by Frank and Janet Hamer. I could go on but I think these books will serve you well.
@@richardmccollceramics heartiest thanks for your valuable time!!! I would definitely buy these books and let you know how i will be going in my journey....i hd been fumbling where to start how to start...Now i am saying myself let's starts from these books first and once i get some basics, i can think ahead....Again thanks a lot for your suggestions.
Such a gentle man and teacher.
❤
If I lived anywhere near you I would definitely be taking lessons. You are so patient and easy to follow!
Thank you for your kind words. It would be a pleasure to be your teacher.
Happy New Year
You are a great teacher! I am learning so much from watching you. Thank you for being a teacher.
I just love to watch your videos. You are my favorite RUclips teacher 😊 Thank you so much for all your lessons ❤️
Thank you so much for your kind words!
Thank you Richard, another great video! 😊
What a wonderful teacher 😊
You doing great classes.
On my list of things to throw this weekend
Thanks
Good luck and have fun.
Thank you! I looked at other tubetutorials but you did it best!
Great teaching. Thank you
Thanks for sharing your obviously considerable knowledge. I learned a lot from this video.
Thank you for watching. Keep learning, I hope you make some wonderful pots.
Great teacher, great knowledge. Thank you!
Thank you, make some great pots!
wunderbar...dankeschön!
Brilliant teacher..... l wish you every success ...
Thank you, my success is you watching and learning.
You have such a charming smile! Thank you for sharing :) I love your lessons
Thank you Richard this was wonderful to watch and has given me lots of new things to try :)
Thank you Zinnia!
Best of luck making some new pieces.
So beautiful, calm and lovely!!... Gracias!
You are the Bob Ross of ceramics 😁
Great tutorial. Thank you.
I sculpt.. i have tried using a wheel , but am so so bad at it 😂 I'll stick to making dragons and fish i think xx 🥰🕊️
All I need is a perm...
Wonderful 😊💖
Thank you from Italy ❤
Thank you from California🙂
Fantastico, grazie infinite per aver condiviso questa tecnica veramente stupenda
Muchas gracias!
GENIAL trabajo !!!!! Gracias 👏👏👏
Muchas Gracias!
I love ur presence, voice and aura
Thank you!
Muy buena pieza la de presentacion
great teacher!
Thank you!
Thank you for watching and learning.
Amazing...👏👏👏❤️❤️❤️
Muchas Gracias! Precioso e interesante!!!!
Muchas Gracias
very good & thorough
i watched to remind myself how to use the sodium silicate (which i previously did on slabs which we rolled with rolling pins after drying the S.S....
& instead of just a SS lesson, i got a wheel lesson as well...& great tips i truly appreciate! (Like how the sodium silicate can dry on the lid and cut you when you open it, or how you need to wire cut the bottom of the pot even if you’re going to leave it on the bed so that it doesn’t dry and evenly and crack…)
thank u 🙏🏼 so much
ur a good teacher & a good video maker 🌺🤓
Thank you for your kind comments.
Mind the gap too...
Excellent demonstration…thank you for sharing your knowledge…I have a question can you apply slip or underglaze before you add the sodium silicate? 😊
Yes you can and it works great!
@@richardmccollceramics thanks for prompt response…greatly appreciated!!😊
Thank you for clear instructions! Can you reuse the clay that has abit of sodium silicate on it that you cut away on the bottom?
Yes you can reuse the clay. A little does not adversely effect the clay, usually it gets wedged into a larger piece. Sodium silicate is normally used in casting clays to reduce the amount of water needed to make slip which reduces the shrinkage and cracking. Some people will use a deflocculated slip for joining clay together like with handles. Good luck.
Very nice thank you.
SS is so unpredictable isn't it? Always nice though.
Hi Sir. I finally had a go with sodium silicate brushed on my vase, and the result was absolutely beautiful! I am so keen to do again and think if I apply on functional wares, how do go about glazing it? I have not seen any videos which demonstrate that. What do you think? Thank you!
Hello,
I did do a video on how I glaze my stretched pots. You can find it at ruclips.net/video/VsxIdqovN8Y/видео.html.
Enjoy,
Richard
Hi Sir. I must have missed this piece of your video. That is cleared. I will try your method out when come to glaze. Thank you :-)
You are very welcome. I hope your pieces come out well.@@xm3364
Hi! Thank you for sharing this was so useful. I have made a bowl from a slip with sodium silicate and now i wonder if i should clean it off the bottom like i would with glaze? Like should i avoid sodium silicate on my kiln shelves?:)
Yes. That is a good idea because sodium and silica makes a glaze...
Can you use sodium bentonite for this?
👏👏👏👏👏
Oh, thank you so much. I purchased one such bowl a long time ago and always wondered how it is made. Do you buy the sodium silicate ready made or do you make it yourself? I really appreciate your clear explanations.
Hi Gabriele,
You can purchase sodium silicate at any ceramic supplier. I am in Southern California and both Aardvark Clay and Supplies and Laguna clay both carry it. A little goes a long way so you do not need much and also make sure you clean the threads on the jar and close it tight when you are done.
@@richardmccollceramics Thanks! Cannot wait to try this technique.
@@arabianwings8064 Have fun with it, my students all enjoyed the magic of it all.
Do you happen to know why this happens? Is it just that sodium silicate creates a quick drying layer that then can be cracked? I think I have seen people do this technique with plain old slip without any sodium silicate in it and it works as well..
The sodium silicate when dried on the clay creates a thin shell, almost like an egg shell, on the clays surface. When the clay is stretched from the inside the shell just cracks and is so well stuck to the clay it cracks the clay with it. Be careful because it is called water glass for a reason, the small pieces can cut you. The surface is sometimes dried with powdered clay but I find this is easier and works better. A variation is to apply a colored slip, allow it to dry to the touch and then the sodium silicate, dry it and stretch. The way to get the surface to crack without the sodium silicate is to dry the surface only and keep the inside of the wall plastic which can be done with thicker pieces.
@@richardmccollceramics Thank you so much for the clear explanation!
Nice
Thank you.
Can i use darvan instead of sodium silicate?
I have not tried it so my best suggestion is to try it yourself. Let me know how it works for you.
I have tried this now a few times, and I am getting a bit better. However, most of my cracks are vertical and fairly deep. They look nice enough (for a beginner pot), but I would like to have more of the smaller cracks and also some horizontal ones. I do not know which the variable is that I need to change: wheel speed, amount of sodium silicate, length of drying? Do you have any suggestion?
It is hard to say without helping you in person. My best guess is to make sure the sodium silicate is dry to the touch before stretching.
I hope that helps, keep practicing and you will fine tune it to your taste.
good luck,
Richard
Can you use sodium silicate on low fire clay
Yes you can.
Is the stain on side just a wash wiped back?
You are correct. I glaze inside, top, bottom then wax on to of the glaze. Allow the wax resist to dry then wipe away with a damp sponge the excess glaze to the waxed line. I then brush a watery wash over the texture and finally clean the high areas with a damp sponge. Be sure to keep rinsing the sponge in water as you wipe. I made a video of the process for you :
ruclips.net/video/VsxIdqovN8Y/видео.html
Thanks,
Richard
Thank You
Thanks a lot for such a detailed presentation...I want to venture into CLAY :-) please advise me some good book to start with..
1: On clay
2: On Glaze chemistry
3 : On firing etc.
Or do i need to join any class...plz advise how to start my journey...Regards
Hi Satyan,
Thanks for watching!
The current general book that I had for my students is by Vince Pitelka, Clay A Studio Handbook
The Classic book on clay and glaze chemistry is by Daniel Rhodes who taught at Alfred, Clay and Glazes for the Potter. It is a little dense and good as a reference book although a little outdated with the use of lead in glazes which is frowned on nowadays.
For glazes the best books are by John Britt: The Complete Guide to High-Fire Glazes which has been organized in a very clear way with great images (remember pictures are never as good as testing glazes yourself in your kiln). John also has a book on cone 4-7 glazes: The Complete Guide to Mid-Range Glazes, Glazing and Firing at Cones 4-7.
A great reference is The Potters Dictionary of Materials and Techniques by Frank and Janet Hamer.
I could go on but I think these books will serve you well.
@@richardmccollceramics heartiest thanks for your valuable time!!! I would definitely buy these books and let you know how i will be going in my journey....i hd been fumbling where to start how to start...Now i am saying myself let's starts from these books first and once i get some basics, i can think ahead....Again thanks a lot for your suggestions.
@@satyanjena Thanks! Good luck on your journey.