- Видео 72
- Просмотров 306 290
Richard McColl
США
Добавлен 9 дек 2013
Throwing Mugs
How to throw straight, modified and rounded mugs on the potters wheel.
Просмотров: 3 822
Видео
Trimming a Bowl
Просмотров 7292 года назад
A demonstration on how to trim a bowl covering centering to the finished piece.
Jose Throwing a Vase
Просмотров 6442 года назад
Jose Salinas Bettencourt throwing one of his signature round vases.
Teapot Handles
Просмотров 2,4 тыс.2 года назад
A discussion and demonstration of creating and attaching a teapot handle.
Assembling a Teapot
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.2 года назад
How to take separate parts and assemble a teapeot.
Throwing a Teapot part 1
Просмотров 6 тыс.3 года назад
How to throw the parts of a teapot and considerations of what makes a good one. Throwing the lid and spout off of the hump.
Assembling a Two Piece Vase
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.3 года назад
Throwing two separate pieces and assembling them to create a taller piece.
Two Piece Part1
Просмотров 8483 года назад
How to throw two pieces to be assembled when leather hard to achieve a larger form.
Wax and Alumina
Просмотров 2,3 тыс.3 года назад
How to use a mix of wax resist and alumina hydrate to prevent spalling and chipping on smooth, high fire clay bodies.
Throwing an Inset Flange Covered Jar
Просмотров 3,3 тыс.3 года назад
A discussion and demonstration on how to create an inset flange covered jar. This is thrown on the potters wheel.
Slab Box, Part 2, Finishing
Просмотров 9613 года назад
This demonstrates different types of lids and how to finish a hard slab box.
The Paper will just burn away in the kiln
@@DunoonVanRijn-dx1hr Yes it will burn but it leaves a residue. Burnt paper is an ash and ash is a flux and glass former which when fired high enough melts into a glaze. By removing the paper before the slip dries you have the opportunity to clean up, modify and add to your design.
I love your instructions. Very clear and paced well. I hadn't seen anyone compress the way you did. Other helpful tips were sealing the clay before centering and beveling the bottom of the mug.
@@CrystalAlifanow Thank you for your kind words. I hope my experience gives you a shortcut to success.
I really enjoyed watching this. I teach beginner pottery and use most of the same techniques and wording. You gave me some tweaks to offer my students that could really help. Thank you!
Thank you, so glad you are teaching it well!
Love your tutorials, thank you from Australia
Great Teacher
Grey is a great colour and so under rated.
Hi! Thank you for sharing this was so useful. I have made a bowl from a slip with sodium silicate and now i wonder if i should clean it off the bottom like i would with glaze? Like should i avoid sodium silicate on my kiln shelves?:)
Yes. That is a good idea because sodium and silica makes a glaze...
Use a paper plate
The Water regist is process the same as Hydro process.
Yes, different name, same process.
Awesome work
Thank you for being so generous with your knowledge. I have found this very helpful
Thank you for watching, I am very happy to share.
Always a joy to watch you work and play ❤
Don't see enough of you
So knowledgeable. Thank you for your excellent tutorials, so helpful. ❤
I love how organised you are .. esp with the trims ... its super satisfactory .. i hope i can reach this stage someday
Thank you for your kind comments. Keep working and you will, someday. Take care, Richard
random question: I presume you're right handed, how come you have your water bowl on the left hand side?
Very good instructional video .
Mr McColl you have made some amazing Teapots ❤thank you
Thank you. Now it is your turn to create your own.
No, Thank you for your excellent tutorial
I am going to try and make a box. 😂
Watching a Pro at work. Thank you
Beautiful Teapots ❤
A favourite for me ❤
I will follow this method ❤
Glad to be of help.
You are the nicest person.❤Please show us some more trimming techniques. Thank you
Hi, I am retired now and busier than ever. When I get back into the studio I will be making more videos. I have trimmed on many of my other videos so check them out. Thank you for your kind words!
I think your throwing is excellent 👌
Thank you so much
Great demo. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Beautiful Mugs with great glazing
Thank you for the demonstration ❤
Can I mix the red iron oxide powder with wax resist and splatter decorate a pot?
Most perfect plate❤
If the oxides are applied over a glazed bisqueware such as the plate you painted in this video, will it be food safe?
Thanks for the video. Yesterday (student) I used RIO stain but it absorb because super dry and did not wash off like yours did. Did I do something wrong? I love the brown. Is a wash u mention the same as a stain? Thanks
Make sure you do it on bisque ware so it will wash off the high points. The wash is just iron and rutile mixed with water, brushed on the bisque and sponged off. Good luck!
Oh my! I am so glad I found you. Great teaching style. Thank you so much. 😊
Thank you!
I just recently found your channel and I’ve learned so much from your videos. This one was especially helpful because of the two views. Your explanations are very clear on all the videos.
Thank you! I learned a lot from my students on what was important and am so happy to be able to share with you.
I have tried this now a few times, and I am getting a bit better. However, most of my cracks are vertical and fairly deep. They look nice enough (for a beginner pot), but I would like to have more of the smaller cracks and also some horizontal ones. I do not know which the variable is that I need to change: wheel speed, amount of sodium silicate, length of drying? Do you have any suggestion?
It is hard to say without helping you in person. My best guess is to make sure the sodium silicate is dry to the touch before stretching. I hope that helps, keep practicing and you will fine tune it to your taste. good luck, Richard
Thank you from Italy ❤
Thank you from California🙂
I’m so happy to be here new subscriber and great information
Hi Tracey, Thank you so much!
He makes it look easy.
What type of cobalt is this wash? IT IS SO PRETTY!!!!
I use cobalt carbonate which is finer than cobalt oxide and does not spot like the oxide can. I also add a little Iron oxide and Manganese dioxide to darken the cobalt which makes it easier to see when brushing. We get almost pure cobalt which is, in my opinion a bit too intense a blue when fired so the iron/manganese softens the color a little bit. In historical ceramics the cobalt was naturally mixed and not as pure as ours.
Because I can’t get the laguna brand where I am, I just ordered cmc solution(cellulose gum). Will the ratio work the same as in this video?
As long as it is CMC it will be the same.
Thank you very much!
Hello, I do not know why but somehow I was convinced I can apply iron and other oxyde s (mangane, cobalt) straight on fired clay. No glaze undeneath or above. Reading here it seems I was wrong. What should I do now (apart from doing my homework BEFORE using materials I do not know…)? Fire the sculpture? And at what temperature? Try and brush off some of the oxydes?. When I touch the sculpture now oxydes come on my fingers as powder and it does not promise a good end result. Any other way to “salvage” my work? Thank you for your answer!
Yes there are many ways to utilize oxides with your ceramics. They can be on the raw bisque, under the glaze, in the glaze and on top of the glaze giving different results. Oxides will brush off if they are not fired to a high enough temperature or have something to flux them. Even Iron will brush off at earthenware temperatures. The higher the temperature the less flux you need until you need none. This varies from oxide to oxide. Iron is interesting because it can actually act as a flux at high temperatures. If you fire to a low temperature you can still use oxides as long as you either mix a little flux, like a clear glaze, frit or gerstley borate, with the oxide or apply a very thin wash of a clear glaze over the oxide before firing. You can work with the oxides like charcoal or graphite on paper and apply a fixative which can be a commercial artists fixative, clear acrylic spray, or even hair spray. These all burn off cleanly during the firing leaving the oxide on the piece without smearing. Good luck and make beautiful work, Richard
@@richardmccoll9297 Thank you so much! I really appreciate it!
If it is a sculpture that no one can use for food you can treat it like a charcoal drawing and seal it with a fixative or a matte acrylic spray. This is not as permanent as firing but will last. I have some drawings that I did about 40 years ago using oxides and acrylic medium and they are like the day I made them.
Pleasure to watch your videos. Very informative and useful, thank you 🙏🏼🤌🏼
Thank you for learning.
8:05 what is the name of that matte glaze??
It is one that I created that is a high alumina cone 10 matt.
Very useful, thank you! The butterfly 💪🏻🩵 Tonje, from Norway ❄️
Thank you! I love your beautiful country.
I would love to know how did you do the decoration in the thumbnail. Wax? Masking tape? 4 brushes attached and very good pulse? I love it!
Thank you. I use masking tape on bisque ware before glazing and then remove the tape before firing. Enjoy!
Thanks for sharing! I will 100% try that it looks awesome! @@richardmccoll9297
Enjoy, good luck and pass it on.@
Wonderful instructional, thank you!
Thank you so much!
Just to be clear - you are painting the oxides on an unfired glaze base? Not as an overglaze on a glaze fired piece?
Yes, I am brushing oxides on the unfired glaze.
Great tip for cutting pots off the hump.