Flashing a Dormer in 4D
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- Опубликовано: 12 окт 2016
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Last time we were on the roof, it was to examine valley flashing.
This time we’re going to hop over to the other side and tackle a dormer.
First, we’ll strip away the layers-
and begin at the beginning, with a couple of courses of roofing membrane and the drip edge flashing.
Roofing underlayment can be installed on the roof, but hold it back from the roof wall joint.
Cover the connections with peel and stick membrane and then fold the synthetic underlayment up the wall also.
Underlayment and peel and stick should go higher than the step flashing, for easier verification.
Install shingles to the base of the dormer, notching the end piece appropriately.
Lay a bead of roofing cement along the top of the shingle course just below the dormer and bed the base flashing into it.
The first piece of step flashing should turn the corner and extend over the base flashing.
Nail it through the shingle into the roof to avoid wood movement problems between roof and wall.
The next shingle extends below the previous step flashing.
And the next step flashing goes on top, aligned above the next shingle.
And so on …
Continuing up the side of the dormer.
At the top, fold a closure flashing with a piece of sheet metal that can tuck into the crotch where roof meets soffit. You can bed it in roofing cement.
The next row of shingles can slip under the closure flashing.
Finally, you can install the house wrap over the top of the step flashing and base flashing.
Now, you’ve got a roof/wall joint that won’t leak into you good-night’s sleep.
Technical assistance from: Doug Horgan (BOWA), Dan Whitmore (Hammer and Hand), and Matt Jackson (The Timber Tailor) | 3D Modeling: Matt Jackson and Dan Morrison | Music: As I Figure by Kevin MacLeod | Produced by: Dan Morrison
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Хобби
One of the best and most straightforward flashing videos out there. Great job, guys. 👍
Absolutely. I just wasted like 2 hours looking for this exact video
Bookmark it and share it with your peeps!
Very nice, to the point and detailed video!
This suggests that every time the roof is replaced, the siding has to be removed also, and also requiring new house wrap. It would cost well over $50,000 to have that done. It is a daunting task to retrofit a house with proper flashing, usually after experiencing a variety of bad leaks. I keep looking for years, but have not been able to find workers capable or desirous of taking on a job like this.
It does not suggest that at all.
@@ProTradeCraft I was referring to the areas requiring flashing such as around dormers as shown in the video. These instructions would indicate that at least the lower levels of siding around dormers must be removed so that waterproofing and flashing can be done in combination with new shingles. I did not mean that the entire house siding must be removed. But, I will suggest that it is extremely difficult to find any roofer willing and able to do proper flashing around dormers and such areas. Most roofers just want to make as much money as quickly as possible, and do not really care about proper flashing and leaks that will show up later.
@@KpxUrz5745 it’s not difficult to find a roofer willing to do that. Literally any good reputable company will know what to do. You just need to find them and not go with the cheapest estimate most likely. If siding is already on/not being replaced, there’s pretty easy ways around. Vinyl/aluminum you can simply pop off the bottom j channel and/or bottom row of siding. Hardie/wood siding, cut the roof to wall siding to expose old flashing, remove, replace. If house wrap exists, drape it over the flashing. If no house wrap then flashing tape is all you can do. Then you install z flashing and a 1x4 or 1x6 trim board where you cut the siding. Then if that roof is ever replaced again, all the roofer needs to do is remove the trim boards and they can replace all the flashing.
I guess yes, your average roofer that works on a crew may not be capable of doing that. But a reputable company will have someone either in house or sub contracted that they send to do things like that for the roofing crew before or during the install.
@@KpxUrz5745 The step flashing if damaged can usually be pulled out from behind the wall and slid a new one back in. Nobody replaces siding everytime the house is reroofed, no do insurance companys pay for that when paying for a roof
@@travisedwards9983 Oh I know! Which is why so many of us have growing numbers of house leaks that roofers do not or cannot fix. I believe that shortcuts taken with flashing, as well as deliberate carelessness and willingness to rip off the homeowner, account for so much improper roofing work. Typically, the homeowner may not realize any problems until a long time later when a really huge rain storm comes.
Thanks for the video. Could you provide the list of material used in this video.
You guys are incredible
Over statement of the year 🤣🤣
GREAT MUSIC...
Great vid. I would add though that when the roof needs replacing, you will need to disturb a lot of stuff on the dormer step flashing. If you did this: 1. Peel and stick between roof and dormer (8 in up the wall2. Synthetic on top of that3. Step flashing and shingles4. Z flashing over step flashing5. Wrb over z flashing
This way in 20 years the shingles can be removed but the wall cladding is left untouched. New step flashing just slips under the z flashing. Yay. Make a vid about that please.
I read NOT nail into that metal wher shingle is! But on metal where house wall is so no leaking down road
I agree,
Having the nails in the side wall of dormer, is best way to avoid water from ever finding the nails that shouldn't be, under the shingles...
Plus roofing tar on all the nail head's to seal caulk would prevent a driving rain from finding it's way in under shingles...
This is the only thing that deserves mentioning with this video. one nail in the top upper most corner of the step flash accomplishes the same thing.
Nicely done. Is that Sketchup?
Thank you. Yes, it is.
The first installed step flashing should not be cut and folded to the corner, this creates a weak point in the system. It should extend to the lower portion of the apron/wall flashing which enables drainage water to flow past the critical corner without danger of ingress at the flashing intersect. It can be cut at the top to allow the installation of wall cladding. The vertical up stand of the step extending past the corner can be folded towards the dormer at a 90 degree angle. this will protect the flashing intersect and sealant at this location from uv rays an shield it from wind driven rain.
I'm trying to understand this...what you described seems only to differ from the diagram in that the first step flashing extends to the bottom of the apron and then it's cut and folded around the corner. This still leaves an unprotected point at the exact corner. Or are u trying to describe something different? Thankyou.
@@jonm2416 rpm.rcabc.org/index.php?title=ASh_11.1.3_Curb_Flashing_(Typical)
The interface between the low step flashing and the front apron is selaed with caulking. The majority of water would be coming from up slope on the roof and the intent is to drain the majority and stear it clear of the critical points. To improve on this you would do a custom soldered one or two piece flashing.
Perfect
Do you suggest adding a dot of sealant at the exact corner where it's unprotected?
Yes.
This is a good idea to add for sure. and i really like this video method because if you were able to zoom in its almost not unprotected because the upper flashing protrudes the thickness of itself over the pin hole.
A building inspector just told me to put the base flashing for the dormer under the shingles. This makes no sense but he wouldn't let me argue with him and wouldn't show me what it says in the code book. What should I do? I consulted with multiple contractors who all said he is wrong and that the flashing should go over the top shingles.
Make him a small prototype version of the method he is claiming work's, and a small prototype, of the correct way it shows- in the video- of correct way to do it.
And take both prototypes to him.
Run a garden hose down both. Set-ups, and ask him to see which leaks, which doesn't leak....lol
And ask him, which design would you want ? On your own home ? LOL
It's amazing what a visual aid will do to get him to see.
He needs to fix his own broken logic....👍😎
*** There is one flaw in the step flashing, that other's in the comments column, have made note of....and i agree with them....
Is that the roofing nail placed under shingles, is a bad idea...because if water does find those nail head's.
Then a leak could occur...
Best to tack the nails on the side dormer, and seal the head's with roofing tar....
Cheer's😎👍🇺🇸
You can shingle under it like normal and then put a beauty strip on top. Cut a shingle in half peel the dragons tooth up and nail under/reseal tooth. Peeling the tooth up and nailing there simply hides any exposed nails instead of face nailing/caulking the exposed head.
@Zack Gurske well said Zack. Both methods work but I prefer the beauty strip.
The fourth dimension is time
correct. That's what 4D means.
NEVER FLASH BENEATH THE FELT ROLL !!
I thought the same thing, then I realised it’s a shingle roof and we don’t use shingle roofs in the uk so it’s probably a completely different method to how we normally do things over here
how do I get get closure flashing like that?
You make it with coil stock and a brake.
@@ProTradeCraft is there a video showing how to shape it or can you please make one?