just put a rebuilt carbuator on my 77 gmc r/v started to run then stopped. seems to back fire fuel out of carb. wonder if timing is advanced? it has the hei system.
Put the engine at top dead center, or at 6° whatever the timing should be on your pointer, and then check definition of the rotor in relation to where number one cylinder is on the distributor cap. Then wash rinse repeat
This is incomplete. here is a diagram prnt.sc/l5tckr The old distributor has 2 wires running to the coil ..one from the starter and one from the fuse block. The fuse block wire is a resistance wire it must be tracked down to its source and replaced with a regular wire that will give the HEI full voltage. The second wire to the starter should also be replaced and both wires should splice the the battery positive terminal on the HEI. When cranking the starter wire supplies 12 volts and when set to run position the fuse block key on source supplies 12 volts. If you do not run the fuse block source to a key on source you will not be able to shut off the engine
Your plug wires are a mess because you're 180 degrees out! Number one terminal on the cap should be the one pointing at number one cylinder (front driver's side)
pleas help me with the ignition wire. can you make another video on exactly how you ran the new ignition wire. and what port you plugged it into under the dash.
KING_WES18 hey dude, you're going to have a pink wire that is going to run to your fuse box. It's the same color as the pink wire that I mentioned in my video. It is actually a separate wire that will run to the ignition in your steering column. I'm assuming this is going into a GMC like mine, correct?
KING_WES18 the pink underdash wire goes to the fuse box. The fuse box is unbolted from the bulkhead, and separated. I took a scribe, released the old connector from the resistance wire that goes to the coil, and plugged the pink wire into that. It will be the "IGN" spade on the fuse box. There are clear instructions on the GMC Co-Op. That's what I used
This is incomplete. here is a diagram prnt.sc/l5tckr The old distributor has 2 wires running to the coil ..one from the starter and one from the fuse block. The fuse block wire is a resistance wire it must be tracked down to its source and replaced with a regular wire that will give the HEI full voltage. The second wire to the starter should also be replaced and both wires should splice the the battery positive terminal on the HEI. When cranking the starter wire supplies 12 volts and when set to run position the fuse block key on source supplies 12 volts. If you do not run the fuse block source to a key on source you will not be able to shut off the engine
Great video. Was helpful for me with my 75 Glenbrook GMC Motorhome 🇺🇲
the resistance wire or ballast resistor were to lower volts during normal running. When starting you would get full 12 volts!
My 74 Glacier doesn't have a Tach. So what do I connect it the tach wire on the HEI distributor to?
Nothing. Just leave it be.
@@kellyscars Thank you.
The tach wire what it is for mine is not connected to car the negative green wire was there on coil but where does the other side go
Your best bet is to find a wiring schematic specific to your vehicle. The tach wire on the hei cap goes to the tach, then figure out your tach wiring
@@kellyscars hi again found the other side coming out of my fire wall it must of ripped when they removed distributor cap
just put a rebuilt carbuator on my 77 gmc r/v started to run then stopped. seems to back fire fuel out of carb. wonder if timing is advanced? it has the hei system.
Put the engine at top dead center, or at 6° whatever the timing should be on your pointer, and then check definition of the rotor in relation to where number one cylinder is on the distributor cap. Then wash rinse repeat
Cool. thanks know this is old. But I have a 78 GMC 403.. as well..
Doing the same with my 74 glacier. Any other videos ?
Alan crossley I have been slacking on making videos!
This is incomplete. here is a diagram prnt.sc/l5tckr The old distributor has 2 wires running to the coil ..one from the starter and one from the fuse block. The fuse block wire is a resistance wire it must be tracked down to its source and replaced with a regular wire that will give the HEI full voltage. The second wire to the starter should also be replaced and both wires should splice the the battery positive terminal on the HEI.
When cranking the starter wire supplies 12 volts and when set to run position the fuse block key on source supplies 12 volts. If you do not run the fuse block source to a key on source you will not be able to shut off the engine
Your plug wires are a mess because you're 180 degrees out! Number one terminal on the cap should be the one pointing at number one cylinder (front driver's side)
Sharp eye. I did that to clear the HEI unit from the manifold, but yes it is.
pleas help me with the ignition wire. can you make another video on exactly how you ran the new ignition wire. and what port you plugged it into under the dash.
KING_WES18 hey dude, you're going to have a pink wire that is going to run to your fuse box. It's the same color as the pink wire that I mentioned in my video. It is actually a separate wire that will run to the ignition in your steering column. I'm assuming this is going into a GMC like mine, correct?
yes it's an oldsmobile 455. and yes I see the pink wire running into the fuse box. do I tap into that pink wire or something?
KING_WES18 the pink underdash wire goes to the fuse box. The fuse box is unbolted from the bulkhead, and separated. I took a scribe, released the old connector from the resistance wire that goes to the coil, and plugged the pink wire into that. It will be the "IGN" spade on the fuse box. There are clear instructions on the GMC Co-Op. That's what I used
This is incomplete. here is a diagram prnt.sc/l5tckr The old distributor has 2 wires running to the coil ..one from the starter and one from the fuse block. The fuse block wire is a resistance wire it must be tracked down to its source and replaced with a regular wire that will give the HEI full voltage. The second wire to the starter should also be replaced and both wires should splice the the battery positive terminal on the HEI.
When cranking the starter wire supplies 12 volts and when set to run position the fuse block key on source supplies 12 volts. If you do not run the fuse block source to a key on source you will not be able to shut off the engine