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First thing I did was check for fuel at the carb. It was fine. I then checked for spark on the plugs, it was not fine. I then checked for 12V at the distributor, it was fine. I then followed your steps. All three of my coils were within spec. I then replaced the ignition module and the truck fired right up. THANK YOU!!!
This is a great video for HEI diagnosing for those of us who don't know how everything works. I converted my old truck's 300 6-cyl to a HEI distributor and found one of the terminals was also out of place. Still no tach signal so now I know to go back in and check the other connector + test battery input voltage.
Yes, my friend you found the culprit. I must compliment you on your video production--they are getting better all the time. As a fellow Pontiac enthusiast, I was glad to see that you wanted to autocross the GOAT. I did quite a bit of autocrossing with my 1979 TA 6.6 (1979-1984) and stymied the competition back then. You've made some great strides with all the work you've done on the car and the modern performance elements you've included are great. I had no idea the Flame Thrower module had the rpm limiter. Keep up the good work. Two thumbs up!
Thanks Bill! Yeah, crazy how time flies since I started this channel... Always learning something new. The name of the game. Thanks for sharing your story, and leaving a comment. See ya!
I replaced everything in the Distributer, including the Magnetic coil, from Davis Universal Distributer and couldn't get it to fire , this is on my 64 Ford Galaxie 500 with Ford 460 engine, after a week of trying I called Brian at DUI and he explained how to adjust the Magnetic coil, it fired right up, firs crank, this may help anyone who has to change out the Magnetic coil, that was news to me, Best to you all.
My Mallory distributor crapped out on me yesterday. Went to start and no fire. We replaced module but didn’t fix it. So $ 225 tow bill to the house. I’ll use your video to diagnose my problem. Thanks!
Actually, they designed the hei for longer service intervals. When points were in use, they had to be serviced every three months or 3,000 miles. . Getting a higher voltage output was an added bonus
I like your video about the short in the HEI wiring between the modular wires you go in to a explaining the do’s and don’t. You answer my question that my 1983 Buick was acting up during the time I was driving it out on high way
I had a DUI unit in my AMC 304 in a jeep I had about 4000 miles on it and it wouldn't start when it was cold, and I mean 10 - 15 degrees F , what happened was the housing wore by the drive gear allowing the shaft to raise up and it wouldn't trigger it to get a spark. When it was cold out the oil was to thick to let it slide back down, and it did have some issues at other times to. I put the Delco points distributor back in and it runs fine now.
I had the exact same issue with the wire terminals not being snug in the plug and falling out. Then as I was bending out the tab to re-clip it in the plug, the wire terminal slipped off the wire, It hadn't been crimped hard enough. I soldered all the wire terminals , made sure they were made fast in the plug, and spliced in a duplicate ground that I mounted to the firewall. The second ground wasn't my idea, but picked from another thread, I had read, can't hurt.
@@FastMontycould you please give me the wiring info on a 77 chev impala. Colors of wires that go to the ignition module and how to test if the module is geting voltage when ignition switch is in start and on position, thank you for your help
@@Chuncy566 Sorry Brother, I'm not an expert on 77 Impala's, so I can't help there. Everything I went through in the video is how to diagnose a HEI distributor. Hope it helps!
@@FastMonty my situation ended up almost exactly the same as yours. I replaced the HEI control module, but had the same symptoms still. Upon further investigation, the yellow and red wire coming out of the coil had burned through, and were making connection just enough to run like garbage.
Same issue with wire connectors on my new HEI I bought from Butler. I’m having the #4 cylinder with a black plug. Still working the issue. Going with Holley EFI soon
Ohhh no, sorry to hear about the black plug. Let us know how you sort that one out. Thanks for the comment, and thumbs up to going to EFI. You're gonna love it.
thank you for this video, i wanted to buy also the pertronix hei module but it has multiple sparks and they say it can not provide a clean tach signal to your EFI. but you clearly proved everybody wrong! It runs great.
Speaking of cooling on your Pontiac, I installed a Rodney Red radiator on my '77 T/A back in 2004 and it works like a charm. I recommend them....and I have no vested interest in the company by the way. I'm just a very satisfied customer. Cheers.
I had that happen with a pertronix. Unit overheated. Same thing with an overheating ignition module from a 95 Chevy that I was running on my 66 Cadillac. Wild erratic behavior.
@@FastMonty the fix is to relocate the module to where it’s out of the heat. Then it’ll last a lot longer. I did that on the Cadillac, as it was in the flow of the rad fans, and now it’s great. Totally understand why you’d want to ditch the HEI, though!
I installed a cold case aluminum radiator in my big block Nova after the winter overhaul, and found no noticeable improvement in cooling at idle. That is on a 95° day at idle. Cools great down the road though. Can’t wait to see how yours does
Is your water pump pulley bigger than your crankshaft pulley? Meaning do you have a under drive pulley set up? That can cause overheating issues in stop and go traffic..they look cool though but it’s mainly for racing.
@@armygreenfj3924 Good question. I do NOT have an under drive pulley, they're stock diameter, as far as I know. Agreed... too much flow doesn't help either. Thanks!
@@armygreenfj3924 all my pulleys are stock 1970 big block pulleys. Air does not blow back over engine. Blows off the end of blades, so makes a big circle. Hits hood and blows out all sides, not back like I think it should
Replace that dielectric grease ASAP, its more of an isulator and not for heat transfer, you will kill that HEI module quickly. You need "DOW 340 Heat Sink Compound", its good for up to 350F, its the only grease i use personally for my own HEI distributor projects.
Good point. I was using the grease that came with the Module. I was thinking the same thing... DiElectric grease prevents arcing, etc, how in the heck is it going to increase heat transfer? Thanks for the comment!
Man your video just found my weeks of frustration. I was having similar issue, everything worked fine then about 3000rpm I would get erratic tach signal and loss of power, spitting sputtering missing. I started with basics cap rotor wires plugs, and noticed the same problem when I was changing out the cap the wiring fell out of the connector like yours.
I had 2 modules I needed tested a week ago. I went to, Advance, A. Zone, O'Rielly's(no napa near me) The employees at all of those chain auto parts stores looked at me like I was insane when I asked them to test my ignition module from my HEI dizzy. No freekin clue what I am talking about.
The more electronics you have under the hood will leave you scratching your head when the car dies. In my case on my 70 Z/28 I ran a Pertronix for 15 yrs before it gave me problems when the engine reached operating temp. It finally died one night. The same thing happened with my Crane XR-i module. I was going to try an Accel unit until I read the reviews which sometimes are dead out of the box. Therefore I’m back to using points since I have plenty. I am also running with an analog MSD 6AL 6420 because the digital boxes are junk today.
Devils advocate here. Ultimately he used the data logging function of his Engine management system to diagnose the intermittent loss of tach signal from the distributor. I believe analog MSD would use the same signal wire and you would have no idea why your MSD was dying. Also, all of these electronics should have capacitors on them. MSD sells them as RFI filters (which they do as well) but they offer significant voltage spike protection which older style alternators tend to produce. I have two MSD capacitors, one for the FI system and another for the MSD. All is well so far.
Great question Joe... my particular set up does not have timing control. But, I do want to implement that in the future, which requires a different distributor. Stay tuned for that... so, when that happens, we're gonna find out about rev limiting, I'm sure it would. Thanks for the comment!
This is useful. I think I will eliminate those connector terminals/clips (the connections of which seem sketchy) on mine and hard wire the connections. Why leave the wiring to chance? I suppose it makes it easier for when you do disconnect the parts, but since we run the car with the connection, hard wiring does make sense. I also had a intermittent tach signal for a while and that was frustrating. Went away with new module. But what I will take from this video is that the HEI plug connectors are sketch. Cood video Yo!
Thanks Roger! Yeah, hard wiring everything makes reliability sense. But, not accessibility sense. :) There is definitely a trade off... just stuff to look out for. Glad you fixed the tach issue!
Hi, Monty. Couldn't help but notice the excellent quality of your GTO's black paint job. May I ask where you had it painted? I am in need of a new paint and body job on my '77 Trans Am. Thanks.
Hello Mike ..At 17:56 the centrifugal advance weights look strange never seen them overlap like that . With the rotor installed can you rotate the rotor and will it spring back without binding? Thanks for the Pontiac content
I'm a start calling you Eagle Eye Fred. Can't believe you saw that... but, NO they should not overlap, and I fixed them before putting it in. To your point, I don't know if they'd fix themselves, or not? My guess is I wouldn't have been able to attach the Blue Cover. Thanks for spotting that!
The simplest thing. Good thing you took your time to check everything. That,s a kick in the nuts. I would be letting the F bomb,s drop like good thing Nice one less problem. Cheers Fred
Yeah man, lot's of F bombs at the track, on the way home, during this video ... lol Glad I found that issue too. Car is night and day responsive now. Thanks!
thank you for the video, recently I change my head gasket with the rocker arm, push rods and oil pump on my stock z28 78 with 350 , set the timing to 12 degree , when reach the 3k rpm while driving the car fell it hit the break pedal, when the car in neutral i can rev the engine pass the 5k . what you think is it the distributor?
It could be... if you have an HEI, give it a thorough exam. OR, it could be your PCV system. If it's not clearing out the crank case properly, there may be too much back pressure. Let us know what you find out!
You can't. Well, that's what the driving test was for... as mentioned in the video, you need a specialized tool to test the actual module. Thanks for dropping a comment!
It's Tremec TKX, I love it! Check out my TKO install series, the process is identical. I got it from SilverSport Transmissions, who has the best service I've ever experienced. Here's the link to the playlist; ruclips.net/p/PL0VCtZe2W6eYBcBQl-c1VWcnjCvPVLakF&si=P4GAsitLM_ygzsFg Have fun!
Great video, thanks for sharing. I was having the same issues and ran all the same tests ultimately singling out the module. Apparently it had been replaced before because there was a Napa module in it. I replaced the module with another one from Napa and it fired right up. It lasted about three days and died so I returned it and both another. That one lasted about 15 min before dying, started up again and died again after 5 mins. It would run fine for 10-15 min increments and then die and I’d have to pull over and start it again. I’m not sure if it’s because the Napa module was under powered for the performance distributor or if there’s a bigger issue (yes I used the dielectric grease it came with). Any ideas on whether it’s the Napa module or if there’s other potential issues would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
Good question, and sorry you're going through that... cleary the Napa module ain't helping you. Did you have the module tested? (Really not sure if Napa has testing equipment, but just a thought) Can you try a different module manufacturer? Other than that, it sounds like it's overheating. What gauge is the power wire going into the disti? If it's too small, that could cause a strain too. Sorry, that's all I can think of. Keep us posted.
@@FastMonty ok thanks for the ideas, I did not have the module tested. Planning on purchasing the same module you did in this video. The previous owner installed the distributor and there is a thinner gauge wire spliced to the thicker gauge tach wire which might be causing issues. There are 12 volts at the distributor with the key turned to accessory and 10 volts when cranking. For the potential thin wire issue would I just have to trace it to the source and then swap to a thicker gauge or how would I fix that?
@@FastMonty One more thing, the power wire is 10 gauge and doesn’t have the thinner wire spliced, it’s the tach wire that’s spliced to a thinner wire. Would this still be causing an issue? Sorry, I’m 17 and new to this stuff, just trying to get my truck running again 😂. Thanks for the help!
Another great video. Been debating hei vs efi controlled distributor. Just hate all the wiring like distributor, coil, and ignition box. Got to be a simpler way.
Totally understand your concern... that's why I went HEI, BUT, I'm now leaning towards EFI controlled. One of these days... I'll figure out the perfect mix. Thanks for the comment!
Mine is acting like yours only difference is when this happens my electric cooling fan goes off also makes me wonder if system is losing all electrical power somehow
That's wild... I'd agree, try and make sure the HEI unit has a dedicated power lead to the fuse block. It almost sounds like the HEI is not getting enough juice, when the fans are on? let us know!
How has your dui unit treated you? Just purchased one from summit racing do to kept burning up ignition modules left and right checked and changed everything battery alternator both cables even went through 3 accel distributors from summit with no luck would get a few cranks and kill the module. Changed out ignition switch and harness aswell as hooking it up direct to battery with a kill switch so I’m hoping the dui will solve the issue.
Good question... I no longer have it. Not because it's bad, I wanted to have my Fuel Injection system control the timing, so I needed a different style distributor. DUI makes good stuff, have fun! Keep us posted if there are any other issues you figure out. Thanks for the comment!
Monty, have you had any issues with the newly installed Flamethrower module being that it’s manufactured over seas? It’s hard to find anything that’s not made in the USA anymore. I just replaced my module on my 68 Firebird with the Flamethrower. It’s running fine but I am soooo reluctant to take it too far and wind up on the side of the road again.
I hear you... I didn't have any issues with it, nor did I have it very long. :) I now have a MSD Billet, where timing is controlled by my FiTech system. That said, I'd carry an extra one with you, just in case you need it. Have Fun!
Okay I’m gonna change my hei distributor bc it’s only firing on like 4 cylinders but I also think I might have an issue with my new Holley sniper 2… it came with an external fuel pressure regulator but I set that up wrong and bypassed it, do you think i could have a bad injector just blasting too much fuel in there and it just can’t be burned? I can’t really check for spark alone right now on all my plugs my brother in law said they’re all sparking but idk
hey stupid question what should the ohm meter set to my secondary coil im getting open so i got new coil and its saying same thing so i know i probably did something wrong . my car shuts of after 5 min and wont start and wont start w starting fluid so i suspect its my distributor
All of the OHm readings are listed in the description. I would recommend getting your HEI Module tested. As that's the only thing we can not test with a multi meter, and needs a specialized tester typically found at auto parts stores. Keep us posted as to what you find out!
Preferable 12 volts, my fish finder shuts off at 10 volts, caught me off gaurd, it pays to read instructions !Guess what ? Thats what they said would happen !
Wow, that's a lot. Not sure what's causing your issue... but, I do know electronics do not like heat. Is there anyway to add some sort of heat sync? (Or, at least make sure you add that grease underneath it, when you install it) Let us know if you figure out the magic cure for your particular ride. Thanks and good luck!
@@FastMonty The gel that comes with these auto zone modules look like dielectric grease and not heat sink silicone. I will swap out the module and use my own heat sink silicone
Uterine increase your Gap 35000 is plenty just get a brighter spark and make it to throw it in there and MSD would multiply how many times did pulses and that would even be better than just a hot spark
Exactly! Right next to two quarts of oil, fuses, coolant, Full set of sockets, wrenches, mini jump starter, screw drivers, and a few spare relays... baaahhaaahaaa Thanks for the comment!
Can a bad ignition timing make you anxious get stuck because my 350 was running but it got stuck like it seized up the den play ain't she got unstuck and it was back running again
I wonder if a champion radiator shroud could be used since they use the Spal fans. I know auto trans radio's have an internal trans cooler, so sometimes those radiators are not as efficient because of the extra heat. Could you use one for a manual tarns and use a trans cooler to allow radiator to cool efficiently, but solely dedicated to engine cooling. as possible.
Yes, it broke. We found it broke when we started putting everything back together (couldn't get the truck started, so we replaced the ignition module)...bought a new distributor cap, put everything back together, and it broke again. Auto store swapped me straight across for a new one. The new distributor is all back together, but I'm kinda scared to put it on. Am I doing something wrong when I put the cap back on causing the button to be broken?
@@stephenogburn496 Ohhh brother, so sorry to hear that. Especially when installing the brand new unit. AND, the receiving piece is spring loaded, right? So, can you move the rotor up and down a little bit? Like it has slop in the shaft? (It should) If you do have slop, maybe you're not using the correct cap, for the distributor? Might need to get a whole new unit. Let me know.
Good question... here's my original video about it. ruclips.net/video/DWvVkrGQDsw/видео.html After reviewing that one, please make sure you see my latest update on the subject here ... ruclips.net/video/v_qUY4E33r0/видео.html (After market heads typically have a 3/4 NPT thread in those ports) Have fun!
Great video Mike, thank goodness it was a easy fix but I feel for you bud if you knew you probably would’ve fixed it at the track , I could not believe it was something so easy to detect if you knew where to look first . I’m watching the video and Thought for a second maybe you knew but then realized that you were just as shocked as all of us who were watching. I think the take away here is you now have a better replacement part from Flame Thrower I have heard a lot of positive reviews about them being a top choice for Pontiac . Anyway glad you got it fixed , I wonder 💭 if FI Tech recommends a different style connection where you experienced trouble? Just a thought . Take care brother
Thanks John, yeah, I was completely shocked, and left the language in there, ha ha... Not sure about FiTech, I'm gonna find out though. Thanks again for the comment!
Yep, old one is probably fine... vacuum advance won't fit on mine, and it's optional. It's only for emissions, and might keep your engine a little cooler at idle. Thanks!
@@FastMonty thank you for replying, i want to put a water outlet from that location and my vacuum advance was right on top of that, so it's hard to open the outlet like you did on yours.
I have a 65 El Camino,350,HEI distributor,my issue is : I will be driving,or sitting at an idling,and it dies,like all electrical power is shut off,I put it in neutral,starts right back up. Why am I completely losing power,then start back up ? Help ! Thx Amy
Great question Amy... first things first, you have to verify (somehow) that your ignition system is truly losing power at idle. I'm not an expert on Automatics, but my understanding is your carb needs at little bit more fuel at idle, versus idling in neutral. That's where I'd start, make sure your idle is high enough to overcome the torque converter, while stopped in Drive. If you do prove that you are losing supply power to the HEI unit, you might look at the wire gauge going to power, and/or alternator/battery voltage at idle. Should be around 13.5... check out my alternator video I recently did... ruclips.net/video/4ZdHQdJgoDo/видео.html Keep us posted!
@FastMonty I have narrowed it down to the igniton module and or the coil. At one point starting it,it was acting the timing was messed up,but a few seconds,it fired up like nothing happened
@@The_Hollywood_Mission Hmmm, yeah, suspicious for sure. Do all the tests I went through... assuming those are good, try a brand new module. Keep us posted!
Hello. I love your channel and have watched everything multiple times. Have you ever hear of Progression Ignition distributors? It has a smartphone app etc. I have just bouth one for my Pontiac 523cui build for my 78 bandit. I would loved to watch a review from you trying it out. Thank you for all inspiration and knowledge. Best regards Fredrik from Norway
Hey Fredrick, thanks for the heads up. I have not heard of that distributor... since you already have it, you need to make the video. :) ha, ha... I'll try and research it. Thanks again!
Found it on Amazon... here you go; www.amazon.com/dp/B001CMZ6RM?tag=onamzmikemont-20&linkCode=ssc&creativeASIN=B001CMZ6RM&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.2MZLR4U0XI069&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin
Monty I have a 68 convertible bird, all original, heres my issue, I had a backfire, and it turned out to be a push rod was broken, I found 2 pieces a mellings push rod , mellings 041 cam,RAIv pistons,c16 heads, Rhoads lifter, any way, when I unplugged the #6 plug wire, no backfire ran great, I went ahead and replaced all the lifters all new push rods, then I primed the engine via the oil pump with the distributor out. Worked perfect, NOW I CAN'T GET THE DISTRIBUTOR TO SEAT,,, Any suggestions, I'm thinking I need to drop the oil pan and check to see if oil pump dist rod is perfectly indexed.
Wow, that's some rework... do NOT drop your pan. You just have to rotate the pump shaft so it lines up with the distributor. (WIth a long flat blade screw driver) I also assume you marked somewhere on your firewall where the disti should be pointing, before removing it... so, I'll bet the slot in the shaft has to be turned a bit, especially since you primed the pump. Let me know how it works out.
First I want to thank you for replying, ok um my mechanical background is fair, I'ts always been necessity, I. Bought my bird completely totaled,, $$$600, back in 1982, its had several motors , mostly cause it took me 6 years about 8k to get the original motor done right, I did find a set of full forged floater rods in a junk yard, anyway, I' absolutely did what you described, I swear I know what im doing, I've had that dang distributor out many times, as well . I keep thinking the shaft dosent seem to look straight like it seems at an angle, also i took a black magic marker so i could see wear Mark's in the distributor t
@@jamesburns4361 Hmmm... you might need to get a flashlight and look down in there to make sure everything is ok. I'm sure it is. Then match the slot angle to where the distributor starts, before putting it in... not where it ends up, as it turns a little bit. I recently had to do the same thing when I shot this video... that shaft doesn't need to rotate very much to make it difficult.
@@raymondpadilla65 It's a Mr. Gasket. I've also heard good things about EMP Stewart thermostats cuz they have holes in them to allow air bubbles out, and have a constant flow.
@@FastMonty ty yea im having problems when its a hundred degrees out and im pulling my boat it gradually creeps up to 230° and i have a 160 degree high flow meziere sbc 1965 c10 high flow pump and champion aluminum radiator electric fans kick on at 185 and running redline water wetter and only half a gallon coolant very frustrating... please help
@@raymondpadilla65 I understand the frustration. In your case, it's not the thermostat. (Those are used to maintain higher heat in the engine, at it's rating) When the system is higher than the rating, it's not being used. So, that said, you have to look at other causes for the high heat. Are you getting any coolant overflow out the expansion tank? What radiator are you running? Do you have a full shroud around the electric fans?
Yup, probably because the HEI manufacture says to do that. If you run with the original points style "resistor wire" it'll have a good chance of shorting it out, cuz that's what that wire was for, to prevent too much juice going to the old school points distributor. Thanks!
@@FastMonty. Electrical engineering baffles me. So I just do as I’m told. My instructions said the same thing. So I ran the big wire. Just didn’t understand why when there’s virtually no load on the line. Live and learn! 😁
The primary coil test, the secondary coil test and the magnetic test were all in range so you state the problem is the module. I thought you would test the module to show exactly how many ohms it was out of range or if it was open..
Yeah, there are four things to test... the module has to be tested with a specialize tester, usually at an autoparts store. So, process of elimination, I went down that road... and, as you can tell, it wasn't that either. Hope it helped!
@@FastMonty Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, the part was not cheap, but when it failed, I turned the rotor over and there was a part number. Out of curiosity, I keyed the part number in and low and behold it gave the chinese manufacturer.!
Hard to say, could've been the module and the wiring just hangin in there. Had a brand new DUI in a dirt car. Module crapped out. 3500rpm and/or under hard load it cut out bad, lost all power so I ran the race at half throttle max, managed to finish 6th. Could put the module back in to verify but not really worth it.
Agreed, coulda been either issue, the barely there wire connector, and/or the module. Thanks for your story, glad you finished that race! (I recently swapped this out for a Pro Billet distributor, and stand alone coil... which lead to other interference issues. LOL) Thanks again!
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First thing I did was check for fuel at the carb. It was fine. I then checked for spark on the plugs, it was not fine. I then checked for 12V at the distributor, it was fine. I then followed your steps. All three of my coils were within spec. I then replaced the ignition module and the truck fired right up.
THANK YOU!!!
That's Awesome! Thanks for sharing your experience!
I’m getting 10V at the distributor, is this close enough? Fuel pressure is good, plugs aren’t getting any spark.
Had the same issues… troubleshooted and fixed immediately. Runs like a gem 💎 (1970 Chevy C10, 8 cyl., 350 SB)
Awesome! So glad I could help! Have fun!
This is a great video for HEI diagnosing for those of us who don't know how everything works. I converted my old truck's 300 6-cyl to a HEI distributor and found one of the terminals was also out of place. Still no tach signal so now I know to go back in and check the other connector + test battery input voltage.
Sounds like the connector factory (that likely supplies a boatload of vendors) fupped-duck.
Thanks Dwayne! Hope you find the issue... let us know what fixed it.
@@Le_Comte_de_Monte_Felin Ha! For sure!
Yes, my friend you found the culprit. I must compliment you on your video production--they are getting better all the time. As a fellow Pontiac enthusiast, I was glad to see that you wanted to autocross the GOAT. I did quite a bit of autocrossing with my 1979 TA 6.6 (1979-1984) and stymied the competition back then. You've made some great strides with all the work you've done on the car and the modern performance elements you've included are great. I had no idea the Flame Thrower module had the rpm limiter. Keep up the good work. Two thumbs up!
Thanks Bill! Yeah, crazy how time flies since I started this channel... Always learning something new. The name of the game. Thanks for sharing your story, and leaving a comment. See ya!
DUI came in today. Watched your video. Checked it right out the box, and wouldn’t you know.. thank you buddy
I hope it tested fine? Glad I could help.
I replaced everything in the Distributer, including the Magnetic coil, from Davis Universal Distributer and couldn't get it to fire , this is on my 64 Ford Galaxie 500 with Ford 460 engine, after a week of trying I called Brian at DUI and he explained how to adjust the Magnetic coil, it fired right up, firs crank, this may help anyone who has to change out the Magnetic coil, that was news to me, Best to you all.
Thanks Bill! That's some excellent coaching right there! Thanks for the contribution!
I had similar problem but it was that black spring thing in the middle of distributor. It actually melted but I didn’t used the bronze one.
Ohhh dang! Never heard of that issue before. Thanks for sharing!
My Mallory distributor crapped out on me yesterday. Went to start and no fire. We replaced module but didn’t fix it. So $ 225 tow bill to the house. I’ll use your video to diagnose my problem. Thanks!
Ugggggh, sorry to hear that. Worst feeling in the world when you have to tow your baby... let us know what you find out!
Actually, they designed the hei for longer service intervals. When points were in use, they had to be serviced every three months or 3,000 miles. . Getting a higher voltage output was an added bonus
Great Point! (See what I did there? ha, ha...) Thanks Juan!
Great video! Really helped me diagnose a crank no start condition in my 78
Awesome to hear! Thanks for dropping a comment!
I like your video about the short in the HEI wiring between the modular wires you go in to a explaining the do’s and don’t. You answer my question that my 1983 Buick was acting up during the time I was driving it out on high way
Awesome! Glad to hear my video helped you out. Thanks for the comment!
Beautiful! I had exactly this problem with my DUI. Superior video and thank you so much!
Great to hear! Glad you're driving again... thanks for dropping a comment.. See ya!
I had a DUI unit in my AMC 304 in a jeep I had about 4000 miles on it and it wouldn't start when it was cold, and I mean 10 - 15 degrees F , what happened was the housing wore by the drive gear allowing the shaft to raise up and it wouldn't trigger it to get a spark. When it was cold out the oil was to thick to let it slide back down, and it did have some issues at other times to. I put the Delco points distributor back in and it runs fine now.
Ohhh man, sorry to hear that. I'm a few weeks away from making some changes with this Disti too. Thanks for sharing!
I had the exact same issue with the wire terminals not being snug in the plug and falling out. Then as I was bending out the tab to re-clip it in the plug, the wire terminal slipped off the wire, It hadn't been crimped hard enough. I soldered all the wire terminals , made sure they were made fast in the plug, and spliced in a duplicate ground that I mounted to the firewall. The second ground wasn't my idea, but picked from another thread, I had read, can't hurt.
Yeah, almost identical issue... great fix! Haven't heard of the ground strap idea before. Thanks for sharing!
@@FastMontycould you please give me the wiring info on a 77 chev impala. Colors of wires that go to the ignition module and how to test if the module is geting voltage when ignition switch is in start and on position, thank you for your help
@@Chuncy566 Sorry Brother, I'm not an expert on 77 Impala's, so I can't help there. Everything I went through in the video is how to diagnose a HEI distributor. Hope it helps!
Thanks for posting this. The problem you had with the push on connector was the same problem I had.
Thanks Scot! Glad I could help
I’m having the same problems with a carbureted small block Chevy. Thanks for the insight.
I feel your pain... please let us know how you ended up fixing it. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty my situation ended up almost exactly the same as yours. I replaced the HEI control module, but had the same symptoms still. Upon further investigation, the yellow and red wire coming out of the coil had burned through, and were making connection just enough to run like garbage.
@@davidjames2788 Crazy how it's the little things, right? Great to hear you found the issue!
I'm having the same problem with Nova with an sbc. slight throttle is fine after that it falls on it's face, it's been getting worse I think too
@@jaysguyrage9483 You're not alone... let us know what ends up being the issue. Thanks for the comment!
Same issue with wire connectors on my new HEI I bought from Butler. I’m having the #4 cylinder with a black plug. Still working the issue. Going with Holley EFI soon
Ohhh no, sorry to hear about the black plug. Let us know how you sort that one out. Thanks for the comment, and thumbs up to going to EFI. You're gonna love it.
thank you for this video, i wanted to buy also the pertronix hei module but it has multiple sparks and they say it can not provide a clean tach signal to your EFI. but you clearly proved everybody wrong! It runs great.
Glad I could help! Yep, no problems with my Tach... I have no idea what might cause that issue with other cars. Let us know how it goes!
Speaking of cooling on your Pontiac, I installed a Rodney Red radiator on my '77 T/A back in 2004 and it works like a charm. I recommend them....and I have no vested interest in the company by the way. I'm just a very satisfied customer. Cheers.
I'll check em out. Thanks!
Definitely taking the steps you took to check voltages on everything...
Yup, let us know what you find... symptoms help everyone too. Thanks!
Those types of HEI also burn holes in the rotor and short out !
Yeah, they're a ton of fun, aren't they?
Brilliant! Very helpful - I've got an Accel distributor that been acting up. Now I know what to do - Thanks!
Great to hear! Glad I could help, thanks for the comment.
I knew and do HEI Distributors long before you were around. They're fairly simple
Good to know. lol
Great vid Mike The Cold Case are great my 461 has one with duel 14" fans keeps it below 205 even in traffic when it is over 100
Cool! Pun intended, ha, ha... I got he same, we'll see how it compares to my BeCool setup. Thanks for the comment!
I had that happen with a pertronix. Unit overheated. Same thing with an overheating ignition module from a 95 Chevy that I was running on my 66 Cadillac. Wild erratic behavior.
Yeah, super annoying, isn't it? I no longer run an HEI disti... My friends that do carry spare modules with them. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty the fix is to relocate the module to where it’s out of the heat. Then it’ll last a lot longer. I did that on the Cadillac, as it was in the flow of the rad fans, and now it’s great. Totally understand why you’d want to ditch the HEI, though!
@@clarkinthedark1 Ohhh, great idea! Thanks for sharing!
Great video. That HEI rev limiter is awesome
Agreed, I saw that, and said... I gotta get it. Thanks for the comment!
I installed a cold case aluminum radiator in my big block Nova after the winter overhaul, and found no noticeable improvement in cooling at idle. That is on a 95° day at idle. Cools great down the road though. Can’t wait to see how yours does
Yeah Mike, me too. We shall see. See ya soon!
Is your water pump pulley bigger than your crankshaft pulley? Meaning do you have a under drive pulley set up? That can cause overheating issues in stop and go traffic..they look cool though but it’s mainly for racing.
@@armygreenfj3924 Good question. I do NOT have an under drive pulley, they're stock diameter, as far as I know. Agreed... too much flow doesn't help either. Thanks!
@@armygreenfj3924 all my pulleys are stock 1970 big block pulleys. Air does not blow back over engine. Blows off the end of blades, so makes a big circle. Hits hood and blows out all sides, not back like I think it should
I run a carb and points ignition. I drink beer and watch guys with fuel injection scratch their heads and stare at computers
Ha! All part of the fun. Glad you're getting your 12oz. curls in. ha, ha...
Replace that dielectric grease ASAP, its more of an isulator and not for heat transfer, you will kill that HEI module quickly. You need "DOW 340 Heat Sink Compound", its good for up to 350F, its the only grease i use personally for my own HEI distributor projects.
Good point. I was using the grease that came with the Module. I was thinking the same thing... DiElectric grease prevents arcing, etc, how in the heck is it going to increase heat transfer? Thanks for the comment!
Dielectric grease is exactly what it says it kills electric current!!
Just now seeing what this is coming from.. they make a heat sink paste TG-N909 Non-Silicone Thermal Grease nothing compares and last for years
Thanks for the info I will try that on my next module my big block eats modules
Use Arctic Silver thermal compound (available on the jungle website).
It’s designed for computer chip coolers and does a great job.
Man your video just found my weeks of frustration. I was having similar issue, everything worked fine then about 3000rpm I would get erratic tach signal and loss of power, spitting sputtering missing. I started with basics cap rotor wires plugs, and noticed the same problem when I was changing out the cap the wiring fell out of the connector like yours.
Ohhh wow, glad to hear I'm not alone! Ha, ha... Glad to hear you've sorted it out. Thanks for the comment!
Great video I learn a lot.
Thanks Scott! Glad it helped.
Hey, thanks for the video. I hope to be able to use this information in the future.
Welcome, yeah, keep those symptoms in mind, and check the dang connector. LOL See ya!
Very informative, I learned a lot!!! Thanks!
Glad I could help! Thanks for the comment.
I had 2 modules I needed tested a week ago. I went to, Advance, A. Zone, O'Rielly's(no napa near me) The employees at all of those chain auto parts stores looked at me like I was insane when I asked them to test my ignition module from my HEI dizzy. No freekin clue what I am talking about.
Ohhh noooo! They're phasing out more tech know how, from an already weak car education... yikes!
The more electronics you have under the hood will leave you scratching your head when the car dies. In my case on my 70 Z/28 I ran a Pertronix for 15 yrs before it gave me problems when the engine reached operating temp. It finally died one night. The same thing happened with my Crane XR-i module. I was going to try an Accel unit until I read the reviews which sometimes are dead out of the box. Therefore I’m back to using points since I have plenty. I am also running with an analog MSD 6AL 6420 because the digital boxes are junk today.
Devils advocate here. Ultimately he used the data logging function of his Engine management system to diagnose the intermittent loss of tach signal from the distributor. I believe analog MSD would use the same signal wire and you would have no idea why your MSD was dying. Also, all of these electronics should have capacitors on them. MSD sells them as RFI filters (which they do as well) but they offer significant voltage spike protection which older style alternators tend to produce. I have two MSD capacitors, one for the FI system and another for the MSD. All is well so far.
All good points John... Once you go electric, you can't go back... or something like that? HA, ha... thanks for the comment!
@@stevebrown6175 Thanks for the comment Steve!
Another great video! thank you for your time explaining everything
Thanks Steven!
Glad I found this video. It was very helpful.
Great to hear! Thanks for the comment!
Doe's the FITech have a rev limiter in it like the sniper? If so I think that I would up the limit on that module and let the FITech do the thing.
Great question Joe... my particular set up does not have timing control. But, I do want to implement that in the future, which requires a different distributor. Stay tuned for that... so, when that happens, we're gonna find out about rev limiting, I'm sure it would. Thanks for the comment!
This is useful. I think I will eliminate those connector terminals/clips (the connections of which seem sketchy) on mine and hard wire the connections. Why leave the wiring to chance? I suppose it makes it easier for when you do disconnect the parts, but since we run the car with the connection, hard wiring does make sense. I also had a intermittent tach signal for a while and that was frustrating. Went away with new module. But what I will take from this video is that the HEI plug connectors are sketch. Cood video Yo!
Thanks Roger! Yeah, hard wiring everything makes reliability sense. But, not accessibility sense. :) There is definitely a trade off... just stuff to look out for. Glad you fixed the tach issue!
Hi, Monty. Couldn't help but notice the excellent quality of your GTO's black paint job. May I ask where you had it painted? I am in need of a new paint and body job on my '77 Trans Am. Thanks.
Thanks Sean! But, it's Green. ha, ha.. oh, and I had it painted in my garage.
Hello Mike ..At 17:56 the centrifugal advance weights look strange never seen them overlap like that . With the rotor installed can you rotate the rotor and will it spring back without binding?
Thanks for the Pontiac content
I'm a start calling you Eagle Eye Fred. Can't believe you saw that... but, NO they should not overlap, and I fixed them before putting it in. To your point, I don't know if they'd fix themselves, or not? My guess is I wouldn't have been able to attach the Blue Cover. Thanks for spotting that!
The simplest thing. Good thing you took your time to check everything. That,s a kick in the nuts. I would be letting the F bomb,s drop like good thing
Nice one less problem.
Cheers Fred
Yeah man, lot's of F bombs at the track, on the way home, during this video ... lol Glad I found that issue too. Car is night and day responsive now. Thanks!
thank you for the video, recently I change my head gasket with the rocker arm, push rods and oil pump on my stock z28 78 with 350 , set the timing to 12 degree , when reach the 3k rpm while driving the car fell it hit the break pedal, when the car in neutral i can rev the engine pass the 5k . what you think is it the distributor?
It could be... if you have an HEI, give it a thorough exam. OR, it could be your PCV system. If it's not clearing out the crank case properly, there may be too much back pressure. Let us know what you find out!
Great video but after finding the wire harness issue you did show how to actually test the original module.
You can't. Well, that's what the driving test was for... as mentioned in the video, you need a specialized tool to test the actual module. Thanks for dropping a comment!
Thanks for the info and testing 👍
Welcome! Thanks for the comment!
Hello, I am doing a HEI install on a 1975 AMC 360 , What I need to know is, do I keep or take off the the voltage regulator ? Thanks for the Video's.
If there's an inline regulator or fuse link to the old distributor/coil, yeah you remove it. Then upgrade that power wire to 10 gauge. Have fun!
Thanks , Have a great day.@@FastMonty
What transmission do you have??? I have m21 low/close ratio. I want something with higher gears. Hopefully bolt right in 64 cutlass. Thanks in advance
It's Tremec TKX, I love it! Check out my TKO install series, the process is identical. I got it from SilverSport Transmissions, who has the best service I've ever experienced. Here's the link to the playlist; ruclips.net/p/PL0VCtZe2W6eYBcBQl-c1VWcnjCvPVLakF&si=P4GAsitLM_ygzsFg Have fun!
Beautiful car. Sounded like it was breaking up on the top end. Maybe valve springs?
Thanks James, and no... the mic can't handle it. ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
Great video, thanks for sharing. I was having the same issues and ran all the same tests ultimately singling out the module. Apparently it had been replaced before because there was a Napa module in it. I replaced the module with another one from Napa and it fired right up. It lasted about three days and died so I returned it and both another. That one lasted about 15 min before dying, started up again and died again after 5 mins. It would run fine for 10-15 min increments and then die and I’d have to pull over and start it again. I’m not sure if it’s because the Napa module was under powered for the performance distributor or if there’s a bigger issue (yes I used the dielectric grease it came with). Any ideas on whether it’s the Napa module or if there’s other potential issues would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
Good question, and sorry you're going through that... cleary the Napa module ain't helping you. Did you have the module tested? (Really not sure if Napa has testing equipment, but just a thought) Can you try a different module manufacturer? Other than that, it sounds like it's overheating. What gauge is the power wire going into the disti? If it's too small, that could cause a strain too. Sorry, that's all I can think of. Keep us posted.
@@FastMonty ok thanks for the ideas, I did not have the module tested. Planning on purchasing the same module you did in this video. The previous owner installed the distributor and there is a thinner gauge wire spliced to the thicker gauge tach wire which might be causing issues. There are 12 volts at the distributor with the key turned to accessory and 10 volts when cranking. For the potential thin wire issue would I just have to trace it to the source and then swap to a thicker gauge or how would I fix that?
@@hudsonhertz Yup, trace that source/power wire back to the source and put a larger gauge in there. Keep us posted.
@@FastMonty will do, thanks for the help 🙏
@@FastMonty One more thing, the power wire is 10 gauge and doesn’t have the thinner wire spliced, it’s the tach wire that’s spliced to a thinner wire. Would this still be causing an issue? Sorry, I’m 17 and new to this stuff, just trying to get my truck running again 😂. Thanks for the help!
Another great video. Been debating hei vs efi controlled distributor. Just hate all the wiring like distributor, coil, and ignition box. Got to be a simpler way.
Totally understand your concern... that's why I went HEI, BUT, I'm now leaning towards EFI controlled. One of these days... I'll figure out the perfect mix. Thanks for the comment!
I haven’t done this yet, but I think going with a MSD distributor, lock it out, and use the efi timing control.
@@WaveCrusher Yup! On my to do list. Thanks for the comment!
Great video. Thanks for the tips.
Welcome! Thanks James!
Mine is acting like yours only difference is when this happens my electric cooling fan goes off also makes me wonder if system is losing all electrical power somehow
That's wild... I'd agree, try and make sure the HEI unit has a dedicated power lead to the fuse block. It almost sounds like the HEI is not getting enough juice, when the fans are on? let us know!
🤣🤣🤣 I'm just laughing because stuff like this happens to me all the time.
Part of the hobby, eh? It never stops, ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
I have an HEI on my SBC and have been having problems with it falling on it's face for a while now. I thought it was the carburetor but it's not.
Sorry to hear that... but, please do let us know what ends up fixing the issue! Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty I definitely will
How has your dui unit treated you? Just purchased one from summit racing do to kept burning up ignition modules left and right checked and changed everything battery alternator both cables even went through 3 accel distributors from summit with no luck would get a few cranks and kill the module. Changed out ignition switch and harness aswell as hooking it up direct to battery with a kill switch so I’m hoping the dui will solve the issue.
Good question... I no longer have it. Not because it's bad, I wanted to have my Fuel Injection system control the timing, so I needed a different style distributor. DUI makes good stuff, have fun! Keep us posted if there are any other issues you figure out. Thanks for the comment!
Monty, have you had any issues with the newly installed Flamethrower module being that it’s manufactured over seas? It’s hard to find anything that’s not made in the USA anymore. I just replaced my module on my 68 Firebird with the Flamethrower. It’s running fine but I am soooo reluctant to take it too far and wind up on the side of the road again.
I hear you... I didn't have any issues with it, nor did I have it very long. :) I now have a MSD Billet, where timing is controlled by my FiTech system. That said, I'd carry an extra one with you, just in case you need it. Have Fun!
🤣 Educational and amusing at same time
Ha! Thanks!
great video, where did you find the specs for troubleshooting. car looks and sounds great.
Thanks! It was a combination of researching actual GM HEI documents and a How To guide from Davis Unified. Thanks for the comment!
Where did you order your wiring harness for your distributor?
Should be a link in the description of the video. Thanks!
Okay I’m gonna change my hei distributor bc it’s only firing on like 4 cylinders but I also think I might have an issue with my new Holley sniper 2… it came with an external fuel pressure regulator but I set that up wrong and bypassed it, do you think i could have a bad injector just blasting too much fuel in there and it just can’t be burned? I can’t really check for spark alone right now on all my plugs my brother in law said they’re all sparking but idk
If you have spark, it might be timing. Double check that, AND install that fuel regulator. Let us know how it goes.
That thumbnail is hilarious, like IDK.....lol
Thanks Brother! It was exactly how I felt, especially at the track. Ha, ha... thanks again!
hey stupid question what should the ohm meter set to my secondary coil im getting open so i got new coil and its saying same thing so i know i probably did something wrong . my car shuts of after 5 min and wont start and wont start w starting fluid so i suspect its my distributor
All of the OHm readings are listed in the description. I would recommend getting your HEI Module tested. As that's the only thing we can not test with a multi meter, and needs a specialized tester typically found at auto parts stores. Keep us posted as to what you find out!
Preferable 12 volts, my fish finder shuts off at 10 volts, caught me off gaurd, it pays to read instructions !Guess what ? Thats what they said would happen !
Ha! Right?!
0 gauge wire is bigger than 1 gauge if you're using a tan and you're going to a 12 you're making the wires smaller
Yup, the smaller the gauge, the bigger the wire. Thanks.
I have replaced a auto module 3 times in 10 months now. Is there something other than faulty parts that can cause the module to fail or short out?
Wow, that's a lot. Not sure what's causing your issue... but, I do know electronics do not like heat. Is there anyway to add some sort of heat sync? (Or, at least make sure you add that grease underneath it, when you install it) Let us know if you figure out the magic cure for your particular ride. Thanks and good luck!
@@FastMonty The gel that comes with these auto zone modules look like dielectric grease and not heat sink silicone. I will swap out the module and use my own heat sink silicone
I went and double checked all the power leads battery cables/grounds should be all good for the next tests.
@@Anthony-ue4zm Agreed. Hope it behaves better!
@@Anthony-ue4zm Keep us posted!
Uterine increase your Gap 35000 is plenty just get a brighter spark and make it to throw it in there and MSD would multiply how many times did pulses and that would even be better than just a hot spark
Not sure I follow... I'm at close to 0.050" with multiple spark. Thanks!
I have had issues and have seen several others as well with the DUI distributors. Could just be by chance or a crappy product in general.
Yeah, good point... definitely the $1Million dollar question, eh? Gonna be changing to a locked out Pro-Billet MSD distributor soon.
Always keep an extra module in the glove compartment
Exactly! Right next to two quarts of oil, fuses, coolant, Full set of sockets, wrenches, mini jump starter, screw drivers, and a few spare relays... baaahhaaahaaa Thanks for the comment!
Can a bad ignition timing make you anxious get stuck because my 350 was running but it got stuck like it seized up the den play ain't she got unstuck and it was back running again
Bad timing can cause all sorts of issues... not really sure what happened to your 350. Hope it stays healthy!
Yeah it's still healthy
Good to hear! @@Jurassic_24_max
tight fit in ur garage, made me nervous for a second
Ha! Yeah, jusssst enough room. 😁
Common issue for me in the past, now it’s the first thing I check. Those GM connectors are just ancient technology now.
Now you tell me! Ha, ha... thanks, yeah, I can't believe I didn't check that harness connector first. Oh well, live and learn. Thanks!
I wonder if a champion radiator shroud could be used since they use the Spal fans. I know auto trans radio's have an internal trans cooler, so sometimes those radiators are not as efficient because of the extra heat. Could you use one for a manual tarns and use a trans cooler to allow radiator to cool efficiently, but solely dedicated to engine cooling. as possible.
Yep, not sure what size SPAL Champion uses, but you could divert the tranny line to a standalone cooler. Thanks1
Why would the contact button under the distributor cap break?
DId yours break? Could be heat fatigue? Doesn't sound good.
Yes, it broke. We found it broke when we started putting everything back together (couldn't get the truck started, so we replaced the ignition module)...bought a new distributor cap, put everything back together, and it broke again. Auto store swapped me straight across for a new one. The new distributor is all back together, but I'm kinda scared to put it on. Am I doing something wrong when I put the cap back on causing the button to be broken?
@@stephenogburn496 Ohhh brother, so sorry to hear that. Especially when installing the brand new unit. AND, the receiving piece is spring loaded, right? So, can you move the rotor up and down a little bit? Like it has slop in the shaft? (It should) If you do have slop, maybe you're not using the correct cap, for the distributor? Might need to get a whole new unit. Let me know.
Hi, what heater hose fittings you use for those cylinder heads? And from where i can buy it?
Good question... here's my original video about it. ruclips.net/video/DWvVkrGQDsw/видео.html After reviewing that one, please make sure you see my latest update on the subject here ... ruclips.net/video/v_qUY4E33r0/видео.html (After market heads typically have a 3/4 NPT thread in those ports) Have fun!
Great video Mike, thank goodness it was a easy fix but I feel for you bud if you knew you probably would’ve fixed it at the track , I could not believe it was something so easy to detect if you knew where to look first . I’m watching the video and Thought for a second maybe you knew but then realized that you were just as shocked as all of us who were watching. I think the take away here is you now have a better replacement part from Flame Thrower I have heard a lot of positive reviews about them being a top choice for Pontiac . Anyway glad you got it fixed , I wonder 💭 if FI Tech recommends a different style connection where you experienced trouble? Just a thought . Take care brother
Thanks John, yeah, I was completely shocked, and left the language in there, ha ha... Not sure about FiTech, I'm gonna find out though. Thanks again for the comment!
Good video I'm glad you found the issue, your old module probably still good. How come your distributor dont have vacuum advance ?
Yep, old one is probably fine... vacuum advance won't fit on mine, and it's optional. It's only for emissions, and might keep your engine a little cooler at idle. Thanks!
@@FastMonty thank you for replying, i want to put a water outlet from that location and my vacuum advance was right on top of that, so it's hard to open the outlet like you did on yours.
@9011combo yup! Exactly why I removed mine. Depending on your distributor, you can get a vacuum advance lockout.
@@FastMonty ok thank you very much
I have a flame thrower on my bug and it fires immediately it's almost like magic or something how fast it fires....
Love it! Thanks for the comment!
I have a 65 El Camino,350,HEI distributor,my issue is :
I will be driving,or sitting at an idling,and it dies,like all electrical power is shut off,I put it in neutral,starts right back up. Why am I completely losing power,then start back up ?
Help !
Thx Amy
Great question Amy... first things first, you have to verify (somehow) that your ignition system is truly losing power at idle. I'm not an expert on Automatics, but my understanding is your carb needs at little bit more fuel at idle, versus idling in neutral. That's where I'd start, make sure your idle is high enough to overcome the torque converter, while stopped in Drive. If you do prove that you are losing supply power to the HEI unit, you might look at the wire gauge going to power, and/or alternator/battery voltage at idle. Should be around 13.5... check out my alternator video I recently did... ruclips.net/video/4ZdHQdJgoDo/видео.html Keep us posted!
@FastMonty I have narrowed it down to the igniton module and or the coil. At one point starting it,it was acting the timing was messed up,but a few seconds,it fired up like nothing happened
@@The_Hollywood_Mission Hmmm, yeah, suspicious for sure. Do all the tests I went through... assuming those are good, try a brand new module. Keep us posted!
That thing sounds sick❤
Thanks William!
Have a look at Progression ignition HEI … whole new dimension
I will! Thanks for the heads up!
Hello.
I love your channel and have watched everything multiple times.
Have you ever hear of Progression Ignition distributors? It has a smartphone app etc.
I have just bouth one for my Pontiac 523cui build for my 78 bandit. I would loved to watch a review from you trying it out.
Thank you for all inspiration and knowledge.
Best regards
Fredrik from Norway
Hey Fredrick, thanks for the heads up. I have not heard of that distributor... since you already have it, you need to make the video. :) ha, ha... I'll try and research it. Thanks again!
Where did you order the harness from
Found it on Amazon... here you go; www.amazon.com/dp/B001CMZ6RM?tag=onamzmikemont-20&linkCode=ssc&creativeASIN=B001CMZ6RM&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.2MZLR4U0XI069&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin
Monty I have a 68 convertible bird, all original, heres my issue, I had a backfire, and it turned out to be a push rod was broken, I found 2 pieces a mellings push rod , mellings 041 cam,RAIv pistons,c16 heads, Rhoads lifter, any way, when I unplugged the #6 plug wire, no backfire ran great, I went ahead and replaced all the lifters all new push rods, then I primed the engine via the oil pump with the distributor out. Worked perfect, NOW I CAN'T GET THE DISTRIBUTOR TO SEAT,,, Any suggestions, I'm thinking I need to drop the oil pan and check to see if oil pump dist rod is perfectly indexed.
Wow, that's some rework... do NOT drop your pan. You just have to rotate the pump shaft so it lines up with the distributor. (WIth a long flat blade screw driver) I also assume you marked somewhere on your firewall where the disti should be pointing, before removing it... so, I'll bet the slot in the shaft has to be turned a bit, especially since you primed the pump. Let me know how it works out.
First I want to thank you for replying, ok um my mechanical background is fair, I'ts always been necessity, I. Bought my bird completely totaled,, $$$600, back in 1982, its had several motors , mostly cause it took me 6 years about 8k to get the original motor done right, I did find a set of full forged floater rods in a junk yard, anyway, I' absolutely did what you described, I swear I know what im doing, I've had that dang distributor out many times, as well . I keep thinking the shaft dosent seem to look straight like it seems at an angle, also i took a black magic marker so i could see wear Mark's in the distributor t
@@jamesburns4361 Hmmm... you might need to get a flashlight and look down in there to make sure everything is ok. I'm sure it is. Then match the slot angle to where the distributor starts, before putting it in... not where it ends up, as it turns a little bit. I recently had to do the same thing when I shot this video... that shaft doesn't need to rotate very much to make it difficult.
Surely the primary coil is + to the ground tab, not + to the tach output?
Depends which is positive, red or yellow? Red goes to power, and yellow goes to tach. Neither go to ground. Hope that helps.
Curious why your wires are hooked up in reverse order?
Ummm. No, they're not.
Multi-spark inductive ignition systems are actually just TWO sparks per spark event systems. I suppose that more than ONE qualifies as MULTI.
Good point, apparently two sparks are better than one. Thanks for the comment!
Had same issue before it turned out to be the pick up coil in the hei
Crazy stuff... glad I went through and tested all the components. I still can't believe it was a loose connection. Anyway, thanks for the comment!
Nice video
Thanks!
Iam running an MSD pro billet HEI.very good quality distributor (has rev limit too).Expensive but worth the$!Any more issues,maybe try one.
Very interesting, thanks Stephen!
what kind of thermostat you running on the Pontiac? thanx
It currently has a 165, but will be bumping up to a 180 soon.
@@FastMonty what brand is it? ty
@@raymondpadilla65 It's a Mr. Gasket. I've also heard good things about EMP Stewart thermostats cuz they have holes in them to allow air bubbles out, and have a constant flow.
@@FastMonty ty yea im having problems when its a hundred degrees out and im pulling my boat it gradually creeps up to 230° and i have a 160 degree high flow meziere sbc 1965 c10 high flow pump and champion aluminum radiator electric fans kick on at 185 and running redline water wetter and only half a gallon coolant very frustrating... please help
@@raymondpadilla65 I understand the frustration. In your case, it's not the thermostat. (Those are used to maintain higher heat in the engine, at it's rating) When the system is higher than the rating, it's not being used. So, that said, you have to look at other causes for the high heat. Are you getting any coolant overflow out the expansion tank? What radiator are you running? Do you have a full shroud around the electric fans?
Thank you sir
Welcome sir. Thanks for the comment!
Sounds like it's breaking up in the higher rpms before the shift
I assume that was with the side view camera? That would be the mic distortion. Thanks!
Everybody says put a 10-12 gauge wire to the HEI. Look at the wire from the coil it goes to. It’s tiny. Because the HEI draws like 2 amps. 🤣
Yup, probably because the HEI manufacture says to do that. If you run with the original points style "resistor wire" it'll have a good chance of shorting it out, cuz that's what that wire was for, to prevent too much juice going to the old school points distributor. Thanks!
@@FastMonty. Electrical engineering baffles me. So I just do as I’m told. My instructions said the same thing. So I ran the big wire. Just didn’t understand why when there’s virtually no load on the line. Live and learn! 😁
@@apachebill Yup, better off not being stranded cuz the tiny original wire burns itself up... :)
The primary coil test, the secondary coil test and the magnetic test were all in range so you state the problem is the module. I thought you would test the module to show exactly how many ohms it was out of range or if it was open..
Yeah, there are four things to test... the module has to be tested with a specialize tester, usually at an autoparts store. So, process of elimination, I went down that road... and, as you can tell, it wasn't that either. Hope it helped!
Thank you so much
Welcome Robert!
watch some of those so-called HEI experts - the sekk cheao chinese junk and call it "high perf". left me walking in the middle of the night!
Yup, gotta be careful with those cheap units... even my high end unit was giving me fits. Clearly user error on my part. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, the part was not cheap, but when it failed, I turned the rotor over and there was a part number. Out of curiosity, I keyed the part number in and low and behold it gave the chinese manufacturer.!
@@gmcnelly2468 Ohhh that's crazy! So sorry to hear that. Hope you fixed it!
Just buy a Proform GM distributor
And when that breaks?
Hard to say, could've been the module and the wiring just hangin in there. Had a brand new DUI in a dirt car. Module crapped out. 3500rpm and/or under hard load it cut out bad, lost all power so I ran the race at half throttle max, managed to finish 6th. Could put the module back in to verify but not really worth it.
Agreed, coulda been either issue, the barely there wire connector, and/or the module. Thanks for your story, glad you finished that race! (I recently swapped this out for a Pro Billet distributor, and stand alone coil... which lead to other interference issues. LOL) Thanks again!
Ten gauge wire is BIGGER THAN 12 Guage!
Agreed! I bumped up to 10, but it needs a 12 minimum. Thanks!