How to Diagnose and Fix your HEI Distributor. With driving footage.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2022
- Seriously? Now what's wrong... when we went Autocrossing, do you remember how the GTO was misfiring? It's time to test, diagnose, and discuss the symptoms of my HEI distributor. HEI stand for High Energy Ignition, which basically increases fuel burn, by pumping over 50,000 volts to each spark plug. BUT, these things do fail, so we'll test the Primary Coil, the Secondary Coil, the Magnetic Pick Up coil, and our wiring. Lastly, we get to do a test drive, because we still have to test our chassis mods.
New FMG hats are here! www.etsy.com/shop/fastmontysg...
Subscribe by clicking this link; ruclips.net/user/fastmontysgarage?sub_conf...
We'll also install a Pertronix D72000 Flamethrower HEI III GM 4 Pin Module, including programming of their digital rev limiter. Buy it on Amazon;
www.amazon.com/dp/B019XF764K?...
Below are the test specs for HEI Distributors;
Primary Coil;
0.4 to 1.5 ohms
Secondary Coil;
6k to 10k ohms
Magnetic Pickup Coil;
800 - 1000 ohms
The New HEI wire harness I sourced is made by Pertronix, here;
www.amazon.com/dp/B001CMZ6RM?...
The Pertronix Flame Thrower HEI III can be found here;
www.amazon.com/dp/B001CMZ6RM?...
This channel is all about how to's and what to watch out for, when working on your own car. I'm also fresh off of installing a full FiTech Fuel Injection system, as well as installing and test driving a New TREMEC TKX from Silver Sport Transmissions. Subscribe to watch more projects on this built, not bought, 1969 Pontiac GTO.
Playlists of interest;
Hydraulic Clutch and Tremec TKO/TKX install;
ruclips.net/user/playlist?list...
FiTech Fuel Injection Install;
ruclips.net/user/playlist?list...
Here's the original Hydraulic Roller Lifter Fail Inspection, and process:
• Something is still WRO...
Here's the Official Part 1, where Mike starts the preparation of Engine removal
• Pontiac V8 Camshaft Re...
Here's the start of the TREMEC installation, • How to install a Wilwo...
#BuiltNotBought #Pontiac #DIY 
Авто/Мото
Subscribe for more, click here; ruclips.net/user/fastmontysgarage Join the "Full Monty Crew" to support the channel, and get priority tech support! ruclips.net/channel/UCB2KWiUuWR_OFpJtXS94bCQjoin OR, Get your FMG hat, three color combos to choose from, check em out here; www.etsy.com/shop/fastmontysgarage
First thing I did was check for fuel at the carb. It was fine. I then checked for spark on the plugs, it was not fine. I then checked for 12V at the distributor, it was fine. I then followed your steps. All three of my coils were within spec. I then replaced the ignition module and the truck fired right up.
THANK YOU!!!
That's Awesome! Thanks for sharing your experience!
I’m getting 10V at the distributor, is this close enough? Fuel pressure is good, plugs aren’t getting any spark.
Yes, my friend you found the culprit. I must compliment you on your video production--they are getting better all the time. As a fellow Pontiac enthusiast, I was glad to see that you wanted to autocross the GOAT. I did quite a bit of autocrossing with my 1979 TA 6.6 (1979-1984) and stymied the competition back then. You've made some great strides with all the work you've done on the car and the modern performance elements you've included are great. I had no idea the Flame Thrower module had the rpm limiter. Keep up the good work. Two thumbs up!
Thanks Bill! Yeah, crazy how time flies since I started this channel... Always learning something new. The name of the game. Thanks for sharing your story, and leaving a comment. See ya!
Had the same issues… troubleshooted and fixed immediately. Runs like a gem 💎 (1970 Chevy C10, 8 cyl., 350 SB)
Awesome! So glad I could help! Have fun!
DUI came in today. Watched your video. Checked it right out the box, and wouldn’t you know.. thank you buddy
I hope it tested fine? Glad I could help.
I like your video about the short in the HEI wiring between the modular wires you go in to a explaining the do’s and don’t. You answer my question that my 1983 Buick was acting up during the time I was driving it out on high way
Awesome! Glad to hear my video helped you out. Thanks for the comment!
thank you for this video, i wanted to buy also the pertronix hei module but it has multiple sparks and they say it can not provide a clean tach signal to your EFI. but you clearly proved everybody wrong! It runs great.
Glad I could help! Yep, no problems with my Tach... I have no idea what might cause that issue with other cars. Let us know how it goes!
This is a great video for HEI diagnosing for those of us who don't know how everything works. I converted my old truck's 300 6-cyl to a HEI distributor and found one of the terminals was also out of place. Still no tach signal so now I know to go back in and check the other connector + test battery input voltage.
Sounds like the connector factory (that likely supplies a boatload of vendors) fupped-duck.
Thanks Dwayne! Hope you find the issue... let us know what fixed it.
@@Le_Comte_de_Monte_Felin Ha! For sure!
Another great video! thank you for your time explaining everything
Thanks Steven!
Great video. That HEI rev limiter is awesome
Agreed, I saw that, and said... I gotta get it. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for posting this. The problem you had with the push on connector was the same problem I had.
Thanks Scot! Glad I could help
Brilliant! Very helpful - I've got an Accel distributor that been acting up. Now I know what to do - Thanks!
Great to hear! Glad I could help, thanks for the comment.
Great vid Mike The Cold Case are great my 461 has one with duel 14" fans keeps it below 205 even in traffic when it is over 100
Cool! Pun intended, ha, ha... I got he same, we'll see how it compares to my BeCool setup. Thanks for the comment!
Actually, they designed the hei for longer service intervals. When points were in use, they had to be serviced every three months or 3,000 miles. . Getting a higher voltage output was an added bonus
Great Point! (See what I did there? ha, ha...) Thanks Juan!
Thanks for the info and testing 👍
Welcome! Thanks for the comment!
Hey, thanks for the video. I hope to be able to use this information in the future.
Welcome, yeah, keep those symptoms in mind, and check the dang connector. LOL See ya!
I replaced everything in the Distributer, including the Magnetic coil, from Davis Universal Distributer and couldn't get it to fire , this is on my 64 Ford Galaxie 500 with Ford 460 engine, after a week of trying I called Brian at DUI and he explained how to adjust the Magnetic coil, it fired right up, firs crank, this may help anyone who has to change out the Magnetic coil, that was news to me, Best to you all.
Thanks Bill! That's some excellent coaching right there! Thanks for the contribution!
My Mallory distributor crapped out on me yesterday. Went to start and no fire. We replaced module but didn’t fix it. So $ 225 tow bill to the house. I’ll use your video to diagnose my problem. Thanks!
Ugggggh, sorry to hear that. Worst feeling in the world when you have to tow your baby... let us know what you find out!
Glad I found this video. It was very helpful.
Great to hear! Thanks for the comment!
Definitely taking the steps you took to check voltages on everything...
Yup, let us know what you find... symptoms help everyone too. Thanks!
Very informative, I learned a lot!!! Thanks!
Glad I could help! Thanks for the comment.
Great video. Thanks for the tips.
Welcome! Thanks James!
I had a DUI unit in my AMC 304 in a jeep I had about 4000 miles on it and it wouldn't start when it was cold, and I mean 10 - 15 degrees F , what happened was the housing wore by the drive gear allowing the shaft to raise up and it wouldn't trigger it to get a spark. When it was cold out the oil was to thick to let it slide back down, and it did have some issues at other times to. I put the Delco points distributor back in and it runs fine now.
Ohhh man, sorry to hear that. I'm a few weeks away from making some changes with this Disti too. Thanks for sharing!
The simplest thing. Good thing you took your time to check everything. That,s a kick in the nuts. I would be letting the F bomb,s drop like good thing
Nice one less problem.
Cheers Fred
Yeah man, lot's of F bombs at the track, on the way home, during this video ... lol Glad I found that issue too. Car is night and day responsive now. Thanks!
Great video I learn a lot.
Thanks Scott! Glad it helped.
Same issue with wire connectors on my new HEI I bought from Butler. I’m having the #4 cylinder with a black plug. Still working the issue. Going with Holley EFI soon
Ohhh no, sorry to hear about the black plug. Let us know how you sort that one out. Thanks for the comment, and thumbs up to going to EFI. You're gonna love it.
Replace that dielectric grease ASAP, its more of an isulator and not for heat transfer, you will kill that HEI module quickly. You need "DOW 340 Heat Sink Compound", its good for up to 350F, its the only grease i use personally for my own HEI distributor projects.
Good point. I was using the grease that came with the Module. I was thinking the same thing... DiElectric grease prevents arcing, etc, how in the heck is it going to increase heat transfer? Thanks for the comment!
Dielectric grease is exactly what it says it kills electric current!!
Just now seeing what this is coming from.. they make a heat sink paste TG-N909 Non-Silicone Thermal Grease nothing compares and last for years
Thanks for the info I will try that on my next module my big block eats modules
Speaking of cooling on your Pontiac, I installed a Rodney Red radiator on my '77 T/A back in 2004 and it works like a charm. I recommend them....and I have no vested interest in the company by the way. I'm just a very satisfied customer. Cheers.
I'll check em out. Thanks!
I installed a cold case aluminum radiator in my big block Nova after the winter overhaul, and found no noticeable improvement in cooling at idle. That is on a 95° day at idle. Cools great down the road though. Can’t wait to see how yours does
Yeah Mike, me too. We shall see. See ya soon!
Is your water pump pulley bigger than your crankshaft pulley? Meaning do you have a under drive pulley set up? That can cause overheating issues in stop and go traffic..they look cool though but it’s mainly for racing.
@@armygreenfj3924 Good question. I do NOT have an under drive pulley, they're stock diameter, as far as I know. Agreed... too much flow doesn't help either. Thanks!
@@armygreenfj3924 all my pulleys are stock 1970 big block pulleys. Air does not blow back over engine. Blows off the end of blades, so makes a big circle. Hits hood and blows out all sides, not back like I think it should
I had that happen with a pertronix. Unit overheated. Same thing with an overheating ignition module from a 95 Chevy that I was running on my 66 Cadillac. Wild erratic behavior.
Yeah, super annoying, isn't it? I no longer run an HEI disti... My friends that do carry spare modules with them. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty the fix is to relocate the module to where it’s out of the heat. Then it’ll last a lot longer. I did that on the Cadillac, as it was in the flow of the rad fans, and now it’s great. Totally understand why you’d want to ditch the HEI, though!
@@clarkinthedark1 Ohhh, great idea! Thanks for sharing!
I knew and do HEI Distributors long before you were around. They're fairly simple
Good to know. lol
I’m having the same problems with a carbureted small block Chevy. Thanks for the insight.
I feel your pain... please let us know how you ended up fixing it. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty my situation ended up almost exactly the same as yours. I replaced the HEI control module, but had the same symptoms still. Upon further investigation, the yellow and red wire coming out of the coil had burned through, and were making connection just enough to run like garbage.
@@davidjames2788 Crazy how it's the little things, right? Great to hear you found the issue!
I'm having the same problem with Nova with an sbc. slight throttle is fine after that it falls on it's face, it's been getting worse I think too
@@jaysguyrage9483 You're not alone... let us know what ends up being the issue. Thanks for the comment!
Great video Mike, thank goodness it was a easy fix but I feel for you bud if you knew you probably would’ve fixed it at the track , I could not believe it was something so easy to detect if you knew where to look first . I’m watching the video and Thought for a second maybe you knew but then realized that you were just as shocked as all of us who were watching. I think the take away here is you now have a better replacement part from Flame Thrower I have heard a lot of positive reviews about them being a top choice for Pontiac . Anyway glad you got it fixed , I wonder 💭 if FI Tech recommends a different style connection where you experienced trouble? Just a thought . Take care brother
Thanks John, yeah, I was completely shocked, and left the language in there, ha ha... Not sure about FiTech, I'm gonna find out though. Thanks again for the comment!
Another great video. Been debating hei vs efi controlled distributor. Just hate all the wiring like distributor, coil, and ignition box. Got to be a simpler way.
Totally understand your concern... that's why I went HEI, BUT, I'm now leaning towards EFI controlled. One of these days... I'll figure out the perfect mix. Thanks for the comment!
I haven’t done this yet, but I think going with a MSD distributor, lock it out, and use the efi timing control.
@@WaveCrusher Yup! On my to do list. Thanks for the comment!
Man your video just found my weeks of frustration. I was having similar issue, everything worked fine then about 3000rpm I would get erratic tach signal and loss of power, spitting sputtering missing. I started with basics cap rotor wires plugs, and noticed the same problem when I was changing out the cap the wiring fell out of the connector like yours.
Ohhh wow, glad to hear I'm not alone! Ha, ha... Glad to hear you've sorted it out. Thanks for the comment!
That thing sounds sick❤
Thanks William!
Hello Mike ..At 17:56 the centrifugal advance weights look strange never seen them overlap like that . With the rotor installed can you rotate the rotor and will it spring back without binding?
Thanks for the Pontiac content
I'm a start calling you Eagle Eye Fred. Can't believe you saw that... but, NO they should not overlap, and I fixed them before putting it in. To your point, I don't know if they'd fix themselves, or not? My guess is I wouldn't have been able to attach the Blue Cover. Thanks for spotting that!
The more electronics you have under the hood will leave you scratching your head when the car dies. In my case on my 70 Z/28 I ran a Pertronix for 15 yrs before it gave me problems when the engine reached operating temp. It finally died one night. The same thing happened with my Crane XR-i module. I was going to try an Accel unit until I read the reviews which sometimes are dead out of the box. Therefore I’m back to using points since I have plenty. I am also running with an analog MSD 6AL 6420 because the digital boxes are junk today.
Devils advocate here. Ultimately he used the data logging function of his Engine management system to diagnose the intermittent loss of tach signal from the distributor. I believe analog MSD would use the same signal wire and you would have no idea why your MSD was dying. Also, all of these electronics should have capacitors on them. MSD sells them as RFI filters (which they do as well) but they offer significant voltage spike protection which older style alternators tend to produce. I have two MSD capacitors, one for the FI system and another for the MSD. All is well so far.
All good points John... Once you go electric, you can't go back... or something like that? HA, ha... thanks for the comment!
@@stevebrown6175 Thanks for the comment Steve!
I had the exact same issue with the wire terminals not being snug in the plug and falling out. Then as I was bending out the tab to re-clip it in the plug, the wire terminal slipped off the wire, It hadn't been crimped hard enough. I soldered all the wire terminals , made sure they were made fast in the plug, and spliced in a duplicate ground that I mounted to the firewall. The second ground wasn't my idea, but picked from another thread, I had read, can't hurt.
Yeah, almost identical issue... great fix! Haven't heard of the ground strap idea before. Thanks for sharing!
@@FastMontycould you please give me the wiring info on a 77 chev impala. Colors of wires that go to the ignition module and how to test if the module is geting voltage when ignition switch is in start and on position, thank you for your help
@@Chuncy566 Sorry Brother, I'm not an expert on 77 Impala's, so I can't help there. Everything I went through in the video is how to diagnose a HEI distributor. Hope it helps!
That thumbnail is hilarious, like IDK.....lol
Thanks Brother! It was exactly how I felt, especially at the track. Ha, ha... thanks again!
I run a carb and points ignition. I drink beer and watch guys with fuel injection scratch their heads and stare at computers
Ha! All part of the fun. Glad you're getting your 12oz. curls in. ha, ha...
What transmission do you have??? I have m21 low/close ratio. I want something with higher gears. Hopefully bolt right in 64 cutlass. Thanks in advance
It's Tremec TKX, I love it! Check out my TKO install series, the process is identical. I got it from SilverSport Transmissions, who has the best service I've ever experienced. Here's the link to the playlist; ruclips.net/p/PL0VCtZe2W6eYBcBQl-c1VWcnjCvPVLakF&si=P4GAsitLM_ygzsFg Have fun!
Hi, Monty. Couldn't help but notice the excellent quality of your GTO's black paint job. May I ask where you had it painted? I am in need of a new paint and body job on my '77 Trans Am. Thanks.
Thanks Sean! But, it's Green. ha, ha.. oh, and I had it painted in my garage.
🤣🤣🤣 I'm just laughing because stuff like this happens to me all the time.
Part of the hobby, eh? It never stops, ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
thank you for the video, recently I change my head gasket with the rocker arm, push rods and oil pump on my stock z28 78 with 350 , set the timing to 12 degree , when reach the 3k rpm while driving the car fell it hit the break pedal, when the car in neutral i can rev the engine pass the 5k . what you think is it the distributor?
It could be... if you have an HEI, give it a thorough exam. OR, it could be your PCV system. If it's not clearing out the crank case properly, there may be too much back pressure. Let us know what you find out!
Nice video
Thanks!
I wonder if a champion radiator shroud could be used since they use the Spal fans. I know auto trans radio's have an internal trans cooler, so sometimes those radiators are not as efficient because of the extra heat. Could you use one for a manual tarns and use a trans cooler to allow radiator to cool efficiently, but solely dedicated to engine cooling. as possible.
Yep, not sure what size SPAL Champion uses, but you could divert the tranny line to a standalone cooler. Thanks1
This is useful. I think I will eliminate those connector terminals/clips (the connections of which seem sketchy) on mine and hard wire the connections. Why leave the wiring to chance? I suppose it makes it easier for when you do disconnect the parts, but since we run the car with the connection, hard wiring does make sense. I also had a intermittent tach signal for a while and that was frustrating. Went away with new module. But what I will take from this video is that the HEI plug connectors are sketch. Cood video Yo!
Thanks Roger! Yeah, hard wiring everything makes reliability sense. But, not accessibility sense. :) There is definitely a trade off... just stuff to look out for. Glad you fixed the tach issue!
I had similar problem but it was that black spring thing in the middle of distributor. It actually melted but I didn’t used the bronze one.
Ohhh dang! Never heard of that issue before. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you sir
Welcome sir. Thanks for the comment!
Doe's the FITech have a rev limiter in it like the sniper? If so I think that I would up the limit on that module and let the FITech do the thing.
Great question Joe... my particular set up does not have timing control. But, I do want to implement that in the future, which requires a different distributor. Stay tuned for that... so, when that happens, we're gonna find out about rev limiting, I'm sure it would. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you so much
Welcome Robert!
Great video but after finding the wire harness issue you did show how to actually test the original module.
You can't. Well, that's what the driving test was for... as mentioned in the video, you need a specialized tool to test the actual module. Thanks for dropping a comment!
Hi, what heater hose fittings you use for those cylinder heads? And from where i can buy it?
Good question... here's my original video about it. ruclips.net/video/DWvVkrGQDsw/видео.html After reviewing that one, please make sure you see my latest update on the subject here ... ruclips.net/video/v_qUY4E33r0/видео.html (After market heads typically have a 3/4 NPT thread in those ports) Have fun!
tight fit in ur garage, made me nervous for a second
Ha! Yeah, jusssst enough room. 😁
great video, where did you find the specs for troubleshooting. car looks and sounds great.
Thanks! It was a combination of researching actual GM HEI documents and a How To guide from Davis Unified. Thanks for the comment!
Monty, have you had any issues with the newly installed Flamethrower module being that it’s manufactured over seas? It’s hard to find anything that’s not made in the USA anymore. I just replaced my module on my 68 Firebird with the Flamethrower. It’s running fine but I am soooo reluctant to take it too far and wind up on the side of the road again.
I hear you... I didn't have any issues with it, nor did I have it very long. :) I now have a MSD Billet, where timing is controlled by my FiTech system. That said, I'd carry an extra one with you, just in case you need it. Have Fun!
hey stupid question what should the ohm meter set to my secondary coil im getting open so i got new coil and its saying same thing so i know i probably did something wrong . my car shuts of after 5 min and wont start and wont start w starting fluid so i suspect its my distributor
All of the OHm readings are listed in the description. I would recommend getting your HEI Module tested. As that's the only thing we can not test with a multi meter, and needs a specialized tester typically found at auto parts stores. Keep us posted as to what you find out!
I had 2 modules I needed tested a week ago. I went to, Advance, A. Zone, O'Rielly's(no napa near me) The employees at all of those chain auto parts stores looked at me like I was insane when I asked them to test my ignition module from my HEI dizzy. No freekin clue what I am talking about.
Ohhh noooo! They're phasing out more tech know how, from an already weak car education... yikes!
Common issue for me in the past, now it’s the first thing I check. Those GM connectors are just ancient technology now.
Now you tell me! Ha, ha... thanks, yeah, I can't believe I didn't check that harness connector first. Oh well, live and learn. Thanks!
Why would the contact button under the distributor cap break?
DId yours break? Could be heat fatigue? Doesn't sound good.
Yes, it broke. We found it broke when we started putting everything back together (couldn't get the truck started, so we replaced the ignition module)...bought a new distributor cap, put everything back together, and it broke again. Auto store swapped me straight across for a new one. The new distributor is all back together, but I'm kinda scared to put it on. Am I doing something wrong when I put the cap back on causing the button to be broken?
@@stephenogburn496 Ohhh brother, so sorry to hear that. Especially when installing the brand new unit. AND, the receiving piece is spring loaded, right? So, can you move the rotor up and down a little bit? Like it has slop in the shaft? (It should) If you do have slop, maybe you're not using the correct cap, for the distributor? Might need to get a whole new unit. Let me know.
Beautiful car. Sounded like it was breaking up on the top end. Maybe valve springs?
Thanks James, and no... the mic can't handle it. ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
Hello.
I love your channel and have watched everything multiple times.
Have you ever hear of Progression Ignition distributors? It has a smartphone app etc.
I have just bouth one for my Pontiac 523cui build for my 78 bandit. I would loved to watch a review from you trying it out.
Thank you for all inspiration and knowledge.
Best regards
Fredrik from Norway
Hey Fredrick, thanks for the heads up. I have not heard of that distributor... since you already have it, you need to make the video. :) ha, ha... I'll try and research it. Thanks again!
Hello, I am doing a HEI install on a 1975 AMC 360 , What I need to know is, do I keep or take off the the voltage regulator ? Thanks for the Video's.
If there's an inline regulator or fuse link to the old distributor/coil, yeah you remove it. Then upgrade that power wire to 10 gauge. Have fun!
Thanks , Have a great day.@@FastMonty
I have had issues and have seen several others as well with the DUI distributors. Could just be by chance or a crappy product in general.
Yeah, good point... definitely the $1Million dollar question, eh? Gonna be changing to a locked out Pro-Billet MSD distributor soon.
The primary coil test, the secondary coil test and the magnetic test were all in range so you state the problem is the module. I thought you would test the module to show exactly how many ohms it was out of range or if it was open..
Yeah, there are four things to test... the module has to be tested with a specialize tester, usually at an autoparts store. So, process of elimination, I went down that road... and, as you can tell, it wasn't that either. Hope it helped!
Good video I'm glad you found the issue, your old module probably still good. How come your distributor dont have vacuum advance ?
Yep, old one is probably fine... vacuum advance won't fit on mine, and it's optional. It's only for emissions, and might keep your engine a little cooler at idle. Thanks!
@@FastMonty thank you for replying, i want to put a water outlet from that location and my vacuum advance was right on top of that, so it's hard to open the outlet like you did on yours.
@9011combo yup! Exactly why I removed mine. Depending on your distributor, you can get a vacuum advance lockout.
@@FastMonty ok thank you very much
Always keep an extra module in the glove compartment
Exactly! Right next to two quarts of oil, fuses, coolant, Full set of sockets, wrenches, mini jump starter, screw drivers, and a few spare relays... baaahhaaahaaa Thanks for the comment!
Have a look at Progression ignition HEI … whole new dimension
I will! Thanks for the heads up!
0 gauge wire is bigger than 1 gauge if you're using a tan and you're going to a 12 you're making the wires smaller
Yup, the smaller the gauge, the bigger the wire. Thanks.
Can a bad ignition timing make you anxious get stuck because my 350 was running but it got stuck like it seized up the den play ain't she got unstuck and it was back running again
Bad timing can cause all sorts of issues... not really sure what happened to your 350. Hope it stays healthy!
Yeah it's still healthy
Good to hear! @@Jurassic_24_max
Monty I have a 68 convertible bird, all original, heres my issue, I had a backfire, and it turned out to be a push rod was broken, I found 2 pieces a mellings push rod , mellings 041 cam,RAIv pistons,c16 heads, Rhoads lifter, any way, when I unplugged the #6 plug wire, no backfire ran great, I went ahead and replaced all the lifters all new push rods, then I primed the engine via the oil pump with the distributor out. Worked perfect, NOW I CAN'T GET THE DISTRIBUTOR TO SEAT,,, Any suggestions, I'm thinking I need to drop the oil pan and check to see if oil pump dist rod is perfectly indexed.
Wow, that's some rework... do NOT drop your pan. You just have to rotate the pump shaft so it lines up with the distributor. (WIth a long flat blade screw driver) I also assume you marked somewhere on your firewall where the disti should be pointing, before removing it... so, I'll bet the slot in the shaft has to be turned a bit, especially since you primed the pump. Let me know how it works out.
First I want to thank you for replying, ok um my mechanical background is fair, I'ts always been necessity, I. Bought my bird completely totaled,, $$$600, back in 1982, its had several motors , mostly cause it took me 6 years about 8k to get the original motor done right, I did find a set of full forged floater rods in a junk yard, anyway, I' absolutely did what you described, I swear I know what im doing, I've had that dang distributor out many times, as well . I keep thinking the shaft dosent seem to look straight like it seems at an angle, also i took a black magic marker so i could see wear Mark's in the distributor t
@@jamesburns4361 Hmmm... you might need to get a flashlight and look down in there to make sure everything is ok. I'm sure it is. Then match the slot angle to where the distributor starts, before putting it in... not where it ends up, as it turns a little bit. I recently had to do the same thing when I shot this video... that shaft doesn't need to rotate very much to make it difficult.
Ten gauge wire is BIGGER THAN 12 Guage!
Agreed! I bumped up to 10, but it needs a 12 minimum. Thanks!
I have a 65 El Camino,350,HEI distributor,my issue is :
I will be driving,or sitting at an idling,and it dies,like all electrical power is shut off,I put it in neutral,starts right back up. Why am I completely losing power,then start back up ?
Help !
Thx Amy
Great question Amy... first things first, you have to verify (somehow) that your ignition system is truly losing power at idle. I'm not an expert on Automatics, but my understanding is your carb needs at little bit more fuel at idle, versus idling in neutral. That's where I'd start, make sure your idle is high enough to overcome the torque converter, while stopped in Drive. If you do prove that you are losing supply power to the HEI unit, you might look at the wire gauge going to power, and/or alternator/battery voltage at idle. Should be around 13.5... check out my alternator video I recently did... ruclips.net/video/4ZdHQdJgoDo/видео.html Keep us posted!
@FastMonty I have narrowed it down to the igniton module and or the coil. At one point starting it,it was acting the timing was messed up,but a few seconds,it fired up like nothing happened
@@The_Hollywood_Mission Hmmm, yeah, suspicious for sure. Do all the tests I went through... assuming those are good, try a brand new module. Keep us posted!
Multi-spark inductive ignition systems are actually just TWO sparks per spark event systems. I suppose that more than ONE qualifies as MULTI.
Good point, apparently two sparks are better than one. Thanks for the comment!
I have an HEI on my SBC and have been having problems with it falling on it's face for a while now. I thought it was the carburetor but it's not.
Sorry to hear that... but, please do let us know what ends up fixing the issue! Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty I definitely will
Uterine increase your Gap 35000 is plenty just get a brighter spark and make it to throw it in there and MSD would multiply how many times did pulses and that would even be better than just a hot spark
Not sure I follow... I'm at close to 0.050" with multiple spark. Thanks!
I have replaced a auto module 3 times in 10 months now. Is there something other than faulty parts that can cause the module to fail or short out?
Wow, that's a lot. Not sure what's causing your issue... but, I do know electronics do not like heat. Is there anyway to add some sort of heat sync? (Or, at least make sure you add that grease underneath it, when you install it) Let us know if you figure out the magic cure for your particular ride. Thanks and good luck!
@@FastMonty The gel that comes with these auto zone modules look like dielectric grease and not heat sink silicone. I will swap out the module and use my own heat sink silicone
I went and double checked all the power leads battery cables/grounds should be all good for the next tests.
@@Anthony-ue4zm Agreed. Hope it behaves better!
@@Anthony-ue4zm Keep us posted!
My problem exactly
I hope you're up and running now!
Iam running an MSD pro billet HEI.very good quality distributor (has rev limit too).Expensive but worth the$!Any more issues,maybe try one.
Very interesting, thanks Stephen!
Curious why your wires are hooked up in reverse order?
Ummm. No, they're not.
what kind of thermostat you running on the Pontiac? thanx
It currently has a 165, but will be bumping up to a 180 soon.
@@FastMonty what brand is it? ty
@@raymondpadilla65 It's a Mr. Gasket. I've also heard good things about EMP Stewart thermostats cuz they have holes in them to allow air bubbles out, and have a constant flow.
@@FastMonty ty yea im having problems when its a hundred degrees out and im pulling my boat it gradually creeps up to 230° and i have a 160 degree high flow meziere sbc 1965 c10 high flow pump and champion aluminum radiator electric fans kick on at 185 and running redline water wetter and only half a gallon coolant very frustrating... please help
@@raymondpadilla65 I understand the frustration. In your case, it's not the thermostat. (Those are used to maintain higher heat in the engine, at it's rating) When the system is higher than the rating, it's not being used. So, that said, you have to look at other causes for the high heat. Are you getting any coolant overflow out the expansion tank? What radiator are you running? Do you have a full shroud around the electric fans?
Everybody says put a 10-12 gauge wire to the HEI. Look at the wire from the coil it goes to. It’s tiny. Because the HEI draws like 2 amps. 🤣
Yup, probably because the HEI manufacture says to do that. If you run with the original points style "resistor wire" it'll have a good chance of shorting it out, cuz that's what that wire was for, to prevent too much juice going to the old school points distributor. Thanks!
@@FastMonty. Electrical engineering baffles me. So I just do as I’m told. My instructions said the same thing. So I ran the big wire. Just didn’t understand why when there’s virtually no load on the line. Live and learn! 😁
@@apachebill Yup, better off not being stranded cuz the tiny original wire burns itself up... :)
Mine is acting like yours only difference is when this happens my electric cooling fan goes off also makes me wonder if system is losing all electrical power somehow
That's wild... I'd agree, try and make sure the HEI unit has a dedicated power lead to the fuse block. It almost sounds like the HEI is not getting enough juice, when the fans are on? let us know!
Had same issue before it turned out to be the pick up coil in the hei
Crazy stuff... glad I went through and tested all the components. I still can't believe it was a loose connection. Anyway, thanks for the comment!
Is the wiring harness GM Part #19207437 ?
Maybe... and good point, I didn't leave a link, did I? Here's the new harness I got, from Pertronix; www.amazon.com/dp/B001CMZ6RM?tag=onamzmikemont-20&linkCode=ssc&creativeASIN=B001CMZ6RM&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.2MZLR4U0XI069&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin
@@FastMonty awesome. Thank you for the reply.
@@G_Body_Queen Welcome!
Surely the primary coil is + to the ground tab, not + to the tach output?
Depends which is positive, red or yellow? Red goes to power, and yellow goes to tach. Neither go to ground. Hope that helps.
🤗🤗
Ohhh yeah... :)
Sounds like it's breaking up in the higher rpms before the shift
I assume that was with the side view camera? That would be the mic distortion. Thanks!
Hard to say, could've been the module and the wiring just hangin in there. Had a brand new DUI in a dirt car. Module crapped out. 3500rpm and/or under hard load it cut out bad, lost all power so I ran the race at half throttle max, managed to finish 6th. Could put the module back in to verify but not really worth it.
Agreed, coulda been either issue, the barely there wire connector, and/or the module. Thanks for your story, glad you finished that race! (I recently swapped this out for a Pro Billet distributor, and stand alone coil... which lead to other interference issues. LOL) Thanks again!
That coil should not be painted. You should scrap away the paint that the ground connects to.
Good catch. But, the coil can be painted. As long as the ground terminal is not painted, you're good. Thanks!
@@FastMonty not for a proper ground. I know the threads may not be painted, I can't really tell but test from a spot on the painted coil and you'll see.
@itztheday6630 the ground wire connects inside the coil. The "laminate" is there to prevent corrosion. All decent coils should have some sort of coating. Good question.
I bough a dui just like that and the same pins fell out on me like that. A 300 dollar unit and quality of dui is terrible.
Whoaa, glad you figured it out. And luckily those connectors are made by other manufacturers... saved my butt. Thanks for the comment!
vapor lock is a myth
Or, isn't it? ha, ha...
HEI? AFA? (Another Freaking Acronym) Why doesn't anyone know that before you are ever allowed to use an acronym,you must first must define it!
Ha! Cuz the FBI, IRS, DEA, and the entire US Military would come to a screaching hault. Thanks !
@@FastMonty Forgot NASA
However when you are speaking or referring to technical jargon and you make the mistake of assuming you know your target audience enough to believe they know what the fuck your chosen acronym stands for, you have blown it. You just lost the opportunity to teach or inform which one would think this is the point of all your effort. Maybe not.
@@crawford323 ha! I thought NASA was already extinct. Ha ha.
@@crawford323agreed. I honestly thought I said High Energy Ignition at some point... thanks for the acronym explanation reminder.
I’m glad you found the problem BUT you shouldn’t use Jesus’ name in vain.
It's all good now... I hit the confessional. ;)
Msd garbage?
Are you asking if MSD is garbage? Not sure, cuz in a couple months I'm changing this to a MSD pro billet. Thanks,
Hello my friend I just have a question for you how can I install a red limiter on those kind of inition thank you God bless you
Just get the same Pertronix Flameflower module I got, which I detailed how to set up in this video. Thanks!
Did you know how to add a rep limited to those kind of ignition...?..
How to add a Rev limiter? Yes. I I did it in this video. ;)