Something that should be so basic for honeywell to make right, and yet. I have wasted my whole day pretty much trying to figure this out. Tries 3 t6.. doing same thing. Not bringing on aux heat. BS to that heat droop.. I wonder why you are the only one I'm able to find on RUclips talking about this. Good job
this model is probably for installs that we call " adons " menning that the coil is over the secondary heat ( gas , oil or electric ). some people also call them dual fuel systems. it wont engage both stages at the same time to prevent high pressure . the way some people do it around here is they install a A19 outside. you send your Y to the common and exit the close on rise contact to the Y on the outdoor board. You then install a wire from the open on rise contact to the W going back to the heat strips inside. you set the A19 to 20'f and your good to go. As soon as it gets colder than 20f the Y signal will go to the heat strips inside.
I hooked one up a few days ago on a new Rheem heat pump and it works fine. I had to wire W1 off the blower motor board to "E" on the thermostat and put W2 on the blower motor board to "W2" on the thermostat then jump them both together. I did this according to the installation manual for the air handler. I ran through the test mode and everything worked as it should for a heat pump with heat strips for backup.
Tnks again from Florida, we use them in water source heat pumps w NO strip heat at all......too hot here in Miami for have a heat strip add to already 90 degree 😎temperatures
Just watched more of this... I don't think you'll experience the true strangeness of this stat if you don't have it powered up with 24V. Try hooking R and C to a transformer and check the output of W. I did continuity just like you did too and had the same results. You get a different outcome when it's powered up apparently.
jesus man...i love your channel and am happy you have a bunch of shows to watch,in fact i have been watching for the past 12 hours or so,,,guess i should go back to work soon,,,good job mr cool
Had a new heat pump installed. The new T-6 thermostat wouldn’t work. Reversing valve stayed in cool all the time. Company had to comback and i stalled a different brand and it worked fine
They must have made a change because I have a TH6210u2001 in front of me and it will bring on strip heat and compression heat at the same time. I connected white lead to “aux-e” terminal. Em heat also works
I also have seen where the O/B won't energize and you have to change that in the settings. I can't remeber off hand which setting it is but it says in the book changeover valve and settings are only 0 or 1.
(Depending on your geography) This is an example of why DIY does not always work when you have to follow manufacturer's specifications and be well trained on Heat Pumps. Heat pumps, when on Heat mode, rely on outdoor temperature (or performance time) if out temperature is very low (see outdoor ambient sensor settings) to keep pumping heat, hence don't expect Heat Mode to activate compressor at all, if outdoor temp is below minimum acceptable it will go directly to Emergency Heat (gas or electric furnace). On top of that, the Heat pump defrost system (i.e. board) will not allow Heat pump compressor to run if outdoor coil is frozen and needs to melt it via defrost mode (Heat pump goes temporarily to cool mode with outdoor fan off and Auxiliary heat kicks on temporarily to keep home warm; this an abnormal situation and Heat Pump thermostat have settings to remedy it. It is abnormal for Heat Pump on Heat mode to have Auxiliary Heat (or back up heat) to be On at the same time permanently; both are On to temporarily remedy abnormality, meaning Heat Pump can't keep up with thermostat demand given very low outdoor temp; that's why there is Aux Heat ("Help" or Assist heat, not yet a full takeover or replacement, think of 'The Little Engine that Could" just needs a boost, not its engines shut off). Aux Heat is not the same as Emer Heat. Emergency Heat, however, is when the Heat pump is told to STOP ('Little Engine that Could' shuts off engines and reliable Thomas the Train comes does all the work) operating at all and what used to be Aux Heat, now becomes the primary source of heat, Emergency Heat, because Heat Pump has faced and emergency; It can't extract (pump) heat from outside into the house. At work all i do is rewire customer's existing thermostats well and review Heat Pump basics with customers and get paid.
Honeywell has issues with T6 and T4. For the T6 date code is 1914-1940. I have had to replace 3 T6 and 2 T4. T6 I had were dropping 7-12v on B configuration unit, meassuring voltage C to B at outdoor. T4s were running cooling mode when thermostat was set to heat. Unit reversing valve configuration O. Replaced w different version no issues other than disappointed customer and a contractor feeling let down by a company that was dependable. Known issue, when you call tech support and the reply is no known issues is very disappointing to hear.
I just went through a lot of expensive wasted time cause of one of these. It seems that when configured for heat pump, they energized W even when OFF and FAN AUTO. I suspect internal programing error. Did it for a T4 and a T6 pro on the same job. One of our other installers encountered the same thing a while back. Just verified it today. Fixed it by using a Focus 5000 instead.
@@marlymar4 You have to clip the backup heat strip wire so you can individually control it. When they send these kits they are aftermarket wired for any system so if you look at where the pins land at the elec heat plug to the air handler you will see thay have it so it calls all the time you need to physically separate most units
I use these tstat all the time for heatpumps just connect E and W2 to heat relay. The 2 need to be connected at tstat you can wire nut E and L from tstat and Black and white at air handler.
I know many of these thermostats do "learning" stuff, maybe that is affecting your test if it is still trying to "learn" when it really needs second stage? Or maybe there is a software update for it? That looks a lot different than the T6 Pro they have out now (all touchscreen) but thanks to so many flavors the model numbers seem useless and then you have "branded" ones different model but same guts. There are also a silly number of options to configure...currently a bit annoyed mine does not seem to show when aux-heat is calling over Z-Wave so I am struggling to understand optimal settings for the droop, aux-heat CPH, aux-heat lockout (warm temp with outdoor probe), scheduling, etc. for ideal efficiency. I know mine DOES work for aux heat because I monitored the current-draw and output-temp at registers for a few days after installing it to double check my work. I did find the previous people in this house had some whack wiring where the tstat aux-heat wire was black (not connected in furnace) and the furnace aux-heat wire was tied to white and brown (white connected to emergency in thermostat, brown floating randomly behind thermostat)...did seem to work better once I hooked the right wires up to the right terminals per the wiring diagrams and unhooked both ends of the "floating in space" wires.
Wonder if Honeywell is putting the same board with a different number stamped on the back and program on the chip into both models and charging two prices for different logic on the same product.
my t6 does not show if the unit is running or not, like my older non honeywell one did. to see if the ac is running i have to walk to garage and listen. lol also does not show run times ?? no way i know of to calculate run times per day?
John, great video! I have a Honeywell T6 Pro WiFi enabled thermostat, with a date code outside the problem range, that I'd like to use with a Waterfurnace Series 5 geothermal heat pump I'm purchasing. The heat pump is has a single stage compressor and blower so I don't need an expensive thermostat. Will my T6 thermostat work with this unit?
That thermostat has other problems but Honeywell brought back the 5,000 and that's the only thing I would ever use the 662 for to 2 heat 2 cool I would love that you would talk about your truck and how you got those doors on the side I want to get one thanks for what you do
You run a Brown wire to "AUX" and White to "Emergency Heat".. You tie BROWN/WHITE Together at Air Handler.. I just tested a TH4210U and it worked just fine..... You had it set on (2*) degree, "DROOP" in setting (340) which is some goof up on Honeywell.. Whenever it is set to something other than "COMFORT" it kills the backup....Set it to "(0) or "COMFORT".... When done it (WILL) bring on Backup or "STRIP" heat at +3* above room temp.... You messed up your settings, look again, 205 needs to be (7) or "AIR TO AIR HP" And setting (340) Which is emergency or "latency" or droop setting needs to be at "COMFORT"... It already has a built it (3*) offset for strips... Also, the other setting is (1) that is purely asking how many "BACKUP/EMERGENCY" stages.. Which is 1.... On that particular stat you have.... I have used both T4/T6 and BOTH work just fine.. Trust me, redo a video, take this one down, you will see...
Just curious I just installed a venmar hrv, AVS e15, 43135 I'm tryin to figure out how to wire this so the t6 pro can act as the main controller I have 2 wires connected to U and U but unsure what to connect to on the hrv and the install instructs for the venmar basically say use our controller. And of course it's not standard wire identifications. I have NO/NC/C/Y/R/B/G/I/OC/OL on the hrv terminal strip...I/OC/OL are for optional aux remote controllers. (20 min lighted push buttons installed also not working but I think it's in relation to no main controller configured. Also should mention that I have configured the t6 ICU's to include independently powered ventilation hrv/erv. Any input would be appreciated
The t6 pro has cost me hundreds of dollars in time due to its inability to operate properly with heat pump/electric systems. I’m self employed and this has been the biggest time suck / damaging piece if equipment to if my career! I can’t get my time or money back, this type of issue could have killed my business.
I just had this model thermostat installed and it is staying on the heat strips. It is almost 80 degrees F in my house. Tech told me my nest had been the problem, yet it never did this! I went from no heat to HOT with this T6 junk. App not user friendly and the unit is over simplified in the screen options.
If People would read the instructions then These issues wouldn't happen The w- wire is non existent in a 2h 1 c just look up the correct wiring its right in the Installation book. I have installed over 300 of these and the only thing this model does not allow is the outdoor sensor. You use the E wire on the backup heat wire. If you look at the front cover of the box it will have what it does..1 heat 1 cool, 2 heat 1 cool, 2heat 2 cool. ect It comes down to field training. I recommend everyone take the integrated controls cert that honey well, mitsubishi and all the other offer. They are free from your local reps
Something that should be so basic for honeywell to make right, and yet. I have wasted my whole day pretty much trying to figure this out. Tries 3 t6.. doing same thing. Not bringing on aux heat. BS to that heat droop.. I wonder why you are the only one I'm able to find on RUclips talking about this. Good job
Thank You for explaining the number and the meanings.
You have to turn the temperature up over 3 degrees for the Auxiliary heat to kick in along with the compressor
this model is probably for installs that we call " adons " menning that the coil is over the secondary heat ( gas , oil or electric ). some people also call them dual fuel systems.
it wont engage both stages at the same time to prevent high pressure . the way some people do it around here is they install a A19 outside. you send your Y to the common and exit the close on rise contact to the Y on the outdoor board. You then install a wire from the open on rise contact to the W going back to the heat strips inside. you set the A19 to 20'f and your good to go.
As soon as it gets colder than 20f the Y signal will go to the heat strips inside.
I hooked one up a few days ago on a new Rheem heat pump and it works fine. I had to wire W1 off the blower motor board to "E" on the thermostat and put W2 on the blower motor board to "W2" on the thermostat then jump them both together. I did this according to the installation manual for the air handler. I ran through the test mode and everything worked as it should for a heat pump with heat strips for backup.
Tnks again from Florida, we use them in water source heat pumps w NO strip heat at all......too hot here in Miami for have a heat strip add to already 90 degree 😎temperatures
love the way you approach a problem, thanks for posting
We started selling these a year ago and still sell them, had issues at first but we got it figured out.
Just watched more of this... I don't think you'll experience the true strangeness of this stat if you don't have it powered up with 24V. Try hooking R and C to a transformer and check the output of W.
I did continuity just like you did too and had the same results. You get a different outcome when it's powered up apparently.
jesus man...i love your channel and am happy you have a bunch of shows to watch,in fact i have been watching for the past 12 hours or so,,,guess i should go back to work soon,,,good job mr cool
Had a new heat pump installed. The new T-6 thermostat wouldn’t work. Reversing valve stayed in cool all the time. Company had to comback and i stalled a different brand and it worked fine
I had the exact same issue. I tried another T6 had the same result. Installed a White Rodgers stat, works fine. I am finished with t6 stats
They must have made a change because I have a TH6210u2001 in front of me and it will bring on strip heat and compression heat at the same time. I connected white lead to “aux-e” terminal. Em heat also works
Try adding a jumper from E to Aux/W2. I have done that and it works. It will bring on the heat strips when the droop is reached.
I also have seen where the O/B won't energize and you have to change that in the settings. I can't remeber off hand which setting it is but it says in the book changeover valve and settings are only 0 or 1.
218 is the reversing vale. Change it from default to 1.
The 621 are only 1 heat, two cool I believe.
It can be made work with the E to Aux jumper though.
Th621 is Heat/Cool: Up to 2/1 Heat Pump or 1/1 Conventional, meaning it will not run conv and heat pump.
There are several different T6 units, with various numbers of cooling stages and heating stages, 1-1 2-2, 3-2 etc
(Depending on your geography) This is an example of why DIY does not always work when you have to follow manufacturer's specifications and be well trained on Heat Pumps. Heat pumps, when on Heat mode, rely on outdoor temperature (or performance time) if out temperature is very low (see outdoor ambient sensor settings) to keep pumping heat, hence don't expect Heat Mode to activate compressor at all, if outdoor temp is below minimum acceptable it will go directly to Emergency Heat (gas or electric furnace). On top of that, the Heat pump defrost system (i.e. board) will not allow Heat pump compressor to run if outdoor coil is frozen and needs to melt it via defrost mode (Heat pump goes temporarily to cool mode with outdoor fan off and Auxiliary heat kicks on temporarily to keep home warm; this an abnormal situation and Heat Pump thermostat have settings to remedy it. It is abnormal for Heat Pump on Heat mode to have Auxiliary Heat (or back up heat) to be On at the same time permanently; both are On to temporarily remedy abnormality, meaning Heat Pump can't keep up with thermostat demand given very low outdoor temp; that's why there is Aux Heat ("Help" or Assist heat, not yet a full takeover or replacement, think of 'The Little Engine that Could" just needs a boost, not its engines shut off). Aux Heat is not the same as Emer Heat. Emergency Heat, however, is when the Heat pump is told to STOP ('Little Engine that Could' shuts off engines and reliable Thomas the Train comes does all the work) operating at all and what used to be Aux Heat, now becomes the primary source of heat, Emergency Heat, because Heat Pump has faced and emergency; It can't extract (pump) heat from outside into the house. At work all i do is rewire customer's existing thermostats well and review Heat Pump basics with customers and get paid.
Honeywell has issues with T6 and T4.
For the T6 date code is 1914-1940. I have had to replace 3 T6 and 2 T4. T6 I had were dropping 7-12v on B configuration unit, meassuring voltage C to B at outdoor. T4s were running cooling mode when thermostat was set to heat. Unit reversing valve configuration O. Replaced w different version no issues other than disappointed customer and a contractor feeling let down by a company that was dependable. Known issue, when you call tech support and the reply is no known issues is very disappointing to hear.
I just went through a lot of expensive wasted time cause of one of these. It seems that when configured for heat pump, they energized W even when OFF and FAN AUTO. I suspect internal programing error. Did it for a T4 and a T6 pro on the same job. One of our other installers encountered the same thing a while back. Just verified it today. Fixed it by using a Focus 5000 instead.
same here.....in heat pump mode when the cooling is selected W is energized bringing on the heat strips. I had to change the thermostat to pro 1 721.
@@marlymar4 You have to clip the backup heat strip wire so you can individually control it. When they send these kits they are aftermarket wired for any system so if you look at where the pins land at the elec heat plug to the air handler you will see thay have it so it calls all the time you need to physically separate most units
There's a hidden Sub menu that's for installers only and you can select whether you want your outdoor fan motor to run forward or in reverse 😂👍💨🍃
LMAO
Your correct... Does not work with heatpump. This Thermostat gave me hell !!
I use these tstat all the time for heatpumps just connect E and W2 to heat relay. The 2 need to be connected at tstat you can wire nut E and L from tstat and Black and white at air handler.
@@elpapideguanajuato You are absolutely Correct I use these models still . Auxillary is not used!!!!!!!!
I have a T6 but none of my buttons react and the "following Schedule" is on the screen. Is there a different T6.
I made an error below. White is connected to “AUX” or W2
Tried pro3000.. they all bring it on automatically over 2 or 3 degree higher than room temp
Too late maybe but you need to have therminals E and W2 connected to heat relay/relays. Page number 5 on manual
Exactly!
I know many of these thermostats do "learning" stuff, maybe that is affecting your test if it is still trying to "learn" when it really needs second stage? Or maybe there is a software update for it?
That looks a lot different than the T6 Pro they have out now (all touchscreen) but thanks to so many flavors the model numbers seem useless and then you have "branded" ones different model but same guts. There are also a silly number of options to configure...currently a bit annoyed mine does not seem to show when aux-heat is calling over Z-Wave so I am struggling to understand optimal settings for the droop, aux-heat CPH, aux-heat lockout (warm temp with outdoor probe), scheduling, etc. for ideal efficiency. I know mine DOES work for aux heat because I monitored the current-draw and output-temp at registers for a few days after installing it to double check my work.
I did find the previous people in this house had some whack wiring where the tstat aux-heat wire was black (not connected in furnace) and the furnace aux-heat wire was tied to white and brown (white connected to emergency in thermostat, brown floating randomly behind thermostat)...did seem to work better once I hooked the right wires up to the right terminals per the wiring diagrams and unhooked both ends of the "floating in space" wires.
Wonder if Honeywell is putting the same board with a different number stamped on the back and program on the chip into both models and charging two prices for different logic on the same product.
How do I change the temperature limits set at the installation onsite and remotely? I cannot find a complete users manual.
my t6 does not show if the unit is running or not, like my older non honeywell one did. to see if the ac is running i have to walk to garage and listen. lol also does not show run times ?? no way i know of to calculate run times per day?
Works great just as it should
John, great video! I have a Honeywell T6 Pro WiFi enabled thermostat, with a date code outside the problem range, that I'd like to use with a Waterfurnace Series 5 geothermal heat pump I'm purchasing. The heat pump is has a single stage compressor and blower so I don't need an expensive thermostat. Will my T6 thermostat work with this unit?
That thermostat has other problems but Honeywell brought back the 5,000 and that's the only thing I would ever use the 662 for to 2 heat 2 cool
I would love that you would talk about your truck and how you got those doors on the side I want to get one thanks for what you do
Somehow when I was setting the thermostat I set it to unlock which I can't seem to undo. What do I do?
Is there any software to upload all information from existing thermostat setting ?
White wire to "E" for E mergency heat not aux or W. Give it a try.
Rey Gomez HVAC lifesaver! Literally been trying for hours and hours to get this to work. Swapped wires and finally got cold air!
try jumping w to aux on the terminal board
Did you set 221 two two stage? Strip is second stage heat
You run a Brown wire to "AUX" and White to "Emergency Heat".. You tie BROWN/WHITE Together at Air Handler..
I just tested a TH4210U and it worked just fine.....
You had it set on (2*) degree, "DROOP" in setting (340) which is some goof up on Honeywell.. Whenever it is set to something other than "COMFORT" it kills the backup....Set it to "(0) or "COMFORT".... When done it (WILL) bring on Backup or "STRIP" heat at +3* above room temp....
You messed up your settings, look again, 205 needs to be (7) or "AIR TO AIR HP" And setting (340) Which is emergency or "latency" or droop setting needs to be at "COMFORT"... It already has a built it (3*) offset for strips...
Also, the other setting is (1) that is purely asking how many "BACKUP/EMERGENCY" stages.. Which is 1....
On that particular stat you have.... I have used both T4/T6 and BOTH work just fine.. Trust me, redo a video, take this one down, you will see...
Just curious I just installed a venmar hrv, AVS e15, 43135 I'm tryin to figure out how to wire this so the t6 pro can act as the main controller I have 2 wires connected to U and U but unsure what to connect to on the hrv and the install instructs for the venmar basically say use our controller. And of course it's not standard wire identifications. I have NO/NC/C/Y/R/B/G/I/OC/OL on the hrv terminal strip...I/OC/OL are for optional aux remote controllers. (20 min lighted push buttons installed also not working but I think it's in relation to no main controller configured. Also should mention that I have configured the t6 ICU's to include independently powered ventilation hrv/erv. Any input would be appreciated
I have a TH621 and it works on my carrier heat pump , but it will not work on a Trane Heat pump don’t know why but 🤷♀️
Maybe check if the heat pump is energized in heat?
Brian where did you run the white wire to on the thermostat?
The T stands for trouble, They need to bring back the Pro 5000, but I prefer the Pro 8000.
The t6 pro has cost me hundreds of dollars in time due to its inability to operate properly with heat pump/electric systems. I’m self employed and this has been the biggest time suck / damaging piece if equipment to if my career! I can’t get my time or money back, this type of issue could have killed my business.
I just had this model thermostat installed and it is staying on the heat strips. It is almost 80 degrees F in my house. Tech told me my nest had been the problem, yet it never did this! I went from no heat to HOT with this T6 junk. App not user friendly and the unit is over simplified in the screen options.
Jennifer Pettit nest are junk and the tech must have wired the t6 wrong.
Major problems with the o/b terminals
Been a Honeywell guy for a long time. But I hate those stats!
I agree 100%
Good stuff! Thanks for sharing
Good job
I hate this thermostat. All I want to turn AC but heat is coming out instead.😩
Try common to w when in heat mode, y-r volt
Because This Model Can't jump Between AUX And E Heat If Hooked White To W .It's Not work Second Back Up Heat .So Need Hooked White To Aux .
Having trouble with mine...this helps. Thanks
Thanks for the info! Will really help! B.l.t.n!
At least I know I am not crazy and the only one.
This is the worst thermostat i ever used, for heat pump it doesn't activate the O for cooling.
Who this work
They are garbage replaced about 50 of them sent the rest back however I luv the focus pro 5000
Try getting a 1c/2h
U traveling man
Sensors
If People would read the instructions then These issues wouldn't happen The w- wire is non existent in a 2h 1 c just look up the correct wiring its right in the Installation book. I have installed over 300 of these and the only thing this model does not allow is the outdoor sensor. You use the E wire on the backup heat wire. If you look at the front cover of the box it will have what it does..1 heat 1 cool, 2 heat 1 cool, 2heat 2 cool. ect It comes down to field training. I recommend everyone take the integrated controls cert that honey well, mitsubishi and all the other offer. They are free from your local reps