Anycubic Photon Flint Read Method w/ close up menu detail video
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- How to level the Anycubic Photon Resin DLP/LCD printer with the 'Flint Read Resin Tray Levelling Method' with extra touchscreen details for clarification as i've seen some people unsure of the button presses and increment settings needed.
This is otherwise the exact same method as created and used by Photon user Flint Read and demonstrated in his original video linked here.
• Levelling the flint re...
It has worked extremely well for me with excellent adhesion results on my first consecutive printing attempts with the Photon.
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Thank you This is an excellent presentation of my levelling method :D Great video.
Thanks, glad you like it. I wanted to do this with the screen steps because there seemed to be quite a few people who didn't fully understand.
@@spidiq8 Yeah, It's much better with the screen shown and your extra details are very good additions too.
@@flintread2303 I'm grateful that you did this method as it's worked perfectly for me and much easier than the paper method. I've only levelled twice since getting my photon, once for this video and a second time because I dropped the build plate and just wanted to be certain it hadn't moved.
@@spidiq8 Hello!
Thank you for the Build Plate Leveling video!
Because I'm a new owner of a Photon S Printer I have two questions about the "Red Screw":
1) In case of leveling... are the Photon and the Photon S identical (besides the difference in the menu structure)?
2) If I leveled the build plate correctly and printed (successfully) my 3D-prints and after that, I unscrewed the Red Screw to remove the build plate to more easily split the 3D-objects and the build plate and to better clean the build plate, and, after that, I reinstalled the build plate to the printer and tighten the Red Screw - should/must I then re-level the Z-0 Position??
Or is the positioning/fixing of the build plate by the Red Screw always the same as before (of course I have to push it right to the end)?
Because I'm not really sure, that would help me a lot. Thank you so much for your answer!
Greets
Stephan
Salzburg, Austria
@. Glad you found it helpful. Both machines are the same regarding the leveling procedure. Once levelled. Provided you don't knock the plate through excessive force in removing a print or dropping it for example you simply refit it and you're ready to go again. The red screw just secures it to the arm and it will reinstall in the same position.
I have to say this was truly the best advice. We calibrated with paper first and our test print went fine but then any subsequent prints wouldn’t stick to the build plate. This did the trick real nicely. Appreciate the thorough explanation!!
Glad it helped and happy printing. Credit for this method goes to Flint Read of course but I recommend it to everyone.
I was having failures with my new photon. And with yours and flints videos. I just managed to print my first flawless print!! Thank you for your detailed video! Great job my friend! Now printing my second print now. The addiction starts now. Lol
Thanks for clarification on the Z=0 position. I was starting to put that together, but it's great to see someone reference it in detail. I think this may explain several prints where the resin was stuck to the film and not the plate.Thanks for the video.
No problem, glad it was useful to you.
As someone who is about to buy a photon I find this extremely helpful. Had I not watched this video I would have possibly broken my LCD screen tightening the grub screw.
Thank you very much!
You're welcome and I'm glad it's helped you. Enjoy your journey with the photon, it's an incredible machine.
You are a superstar!
Been printing FDM for years and got my first Photon last week. I’ve tried and tried to get something to print, at first there was nothing, then prints stick to the fep.
I’d calibrated about 20 times according to the manual, with no joy.
Even took everything apart to see if LEDs were working. Did the screen test, so was totally lost.
Then I found this.
Straight off the bat my first print came out perfect! Thankyou so much!
Now to learn about support for Resin prints compared to the fdm!
Glad it helped you. Enjoy the printing.
Had the issue of the print not sticking to the bed and we narrowed the issue down to the levelling or the FEP so if this method of levelling didn't work then I would replace the FEP but it worked!
currently 25% through the first print, doesn't matter if it comes warped, half printed and or has defects because it has stuck to the bed.
Recommending the Flint Reed Method if all else fails, great help so thank you.
Great stuff, it's worked well for me so far. Glad to hear it's printing.
Glad I watched this first and to the end, that tip about the grub screw pushing down probably saved my LCD screen, thanks
Been trying to use the manual I got for my mono 2k to get my prints to stick and go nothing. Your easy clear cut method made my first print (the cube) and I cannot thank you enough. I have tried multiple times trying to level the plate and had multiple failures ... Then heard of the Flint method .. found this video, tried it and can't believe it worked so good! I still can't thank you enough for how easy this was
I'm glad it helped and of course like yourself, I would personally like to say thanks to Flint Read of the photon group who was the originator of this. Happy printing.
Dude, literally me, right now! We are printing bros now. Sorry, still elated over my first good print after so many failures.
I heard about this method in another video and searched on it and found this one. You explained it very well! I've only used the paper method thus far, but this method seems much more consistent and reliable. Thank you for the demo. The next time I need to level and reset z, I will certainly use this method.
It's worked perfectly for me. I recommend it.
Excellent video. Still the best method to this day
I was having issues (would not stick to the build plate) with my new Photon Ultra - this did the trick! Thanks!!!
Glad it helped!
This leveling method worked very well for me. I recommend it highly.
Thanks. Glad it helped.
Oh thank you very much... This is really worked. Every detail printed well. Thank you very much
Good practical and detailed advice - thanks
Thanks for the video!
Thanks a lot, this seems very comprehensive. Will try to level using your method next time I so =)
Bonjour, merci beaucoup pour cette vidéo, maintenant ma Photon imprime👏👏👏
You're welcome. Thank you the feedback and I'm glad it was useful for you.
Thanks for the video, and the tip at the end. It was super helpful.
Glad to help and happy printing. :)
That was an incredibly important addendum and I'm glad I watched long enough to see it. I've been printing with my Photon for a few months now, including multiple bed levelings, and never really considered how much variance the tightness of the ball joint made. Most of my prints come out fine, but I recently had to completely disassemble the build plate assembly to clean up some resin intrusion and have started having more errors. I'm going to relevel using the instructions in this video and also making sure to factor in the ball joint's grub screw tightness.
Great technical knowledge and insight, very useful, thanks.
This is working really great for me! Thank you! 😀
thanks for the video, I have a photon and I will try these steps, because I have the problem that the imprecion remains stuck in the film, thanks and I will continue checking your videos, Regards.
Thank you, glad it's helped.
thank you, really helpful and encouraging guide for newbies :)
Thankyou for the feedback and I'm glad it helped.
Thank you for this excellent video.
Excellent video. Thank you very much 😀
Thanks, hope it helped
Excellent video. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
I'll be honest this printer is kicking my arse, not sure if it's lack of supports or just my shit levelling. Will try this tomorrow however when I wake up (if my print fails again)
Stick with it.
Check the FEP is tight enough. Some users reported receiving theirs with the tensioning screws loose. Listen for the pop on the first few layers, it should be very noticeable as the resin pulls off the FEP when your build plate rises.
I recommend the flint read levelling method.
Thanks for the great hint.
Have fun printing.
Danke für den tollen Tipp. Viel Spass beim drucken.
Do you feel that the build plate will scratch the FEP plastic with this method ?
In the original Flint Read video, he specifically says not to try to hard to move it, so you don't scratch it. If you can't move it with minimal effort, it is down too far.
Read the manual. It's like 15 minutes of work
Really nice video! And it is conceicive
if you had read the manual you would know that this is not the way the manual describes.
I would suggest using a bit of resin as a lubricant to prevent FEP scratching.
Interesting idea but I'd be wary of that as it could create a greater gap and resistance.
Perhaps wetted slightly with water.
Though to be honest I've not noticed bad scratching. You only need to move it fractionally.
I really hate how they give you z=0 button and then when you press it it tells you basically that it won't do it...
I'm not sure what you mean?
Hello! Do you know if this would work on the Photon Mono X? I’m going to try later today so I’ll come back with results for everyone.
It should work woth any resin printer where you set a zero / home.
I don't know, but it seems to me that the slicer software should start your first layer specifically at the appropriate height ABOVE Z=0 (as determined by the SLICER) rather than "pre-setting" that height inside your leveling method. In other words, I wouldn't think it would be good to lift the bed after you've set it flat to the FEP, then call that extra gap Z=0. I think doing that would just ADD .03mm to your first layer, making it overly thick and/or causing your first layer to have adhesion problems.
So basically what I'm saying is, it seems to me that not only should that lifting step be skipped, but that step would contribute to first layer adhesion problems.
Am I wrong? If I am, then it seems like an oversight by the slicer software developers. Z=0 should be the build plate flat to the FEP sheet. Your slicer should start the machine printing at the first layer height, not zero.
this logic makes sense until you realise the screw moves the plate down by a fairly significant amount. The problem with this method is you can't check on your depth once you've locked the set screw.
No because the Z=0 height isn't 'literally' a zero height, it's the height at which your printer prints it's first layer hence the gap, no gap, no resin.
I plan to try this method, I'm six prints in and six failures. The problem is the print isn't sticking to the plate, but I am thinking I am following the stock leveling guide and it isn't allowing any resin under for the first layer. At least that is what I am praying it is, lord knows I have tried everything else.
Hope it worked for you.
I just got my first Photon so apologies for the silly question, but is this a procedure that has to be done every time you detach/reattach the plate or is the "z=0" position stored permanently once you do this the first time?
The only silly question is the one not asked and you never know the answer to.
The position is stored once set but is different to your 'home' position which is where many assume it's not saved.
You only have to re do this if you have to re level your plate. For example if it gets knocked or dropped. Probably advisable if you change the fep also just in case it's thicker or thinner.
Watching your video was helpful. But my platform is very difficult to maneuver even if I completely remove the grub screw. You're seems to wobble around like crazy. Watching your video leads me to believe that a wobbly platform would be easier to work with, any ideas what this may be happening?
Your platform should be very loose with the grub screw loose. Remove the screw completely then check that you don't have another in there. The photon comes with one installed and a second in a bag but some users have reported that theirs came with both installed.
Hopefully that's your problem and it will be quickly resolved.
@@spidiq8 It ended up that it was just very "sticky" at the connection point. I just needed to move it around very aggressively to "break" the seal. Works great now...thanks
I just bought anycubic mono x and did the leveling as in the instructions. I tried to print a test cube 2 times and 2 times failed. The first time it was stucked on fep and the second time the first 5 layers was on the build plate and the others on fep what should i do. Is your tutorial going to work?
I'm not familiar with the setup menu of the mono, if it's much the same as the original photon here then yes it should work.
It sounds possibly that you aren't curing long enough though. Give your resin a really good stir, I use a kebab skewer to get into the bottle and then increase your cure times a couple of seconds per layer, especially the first few.
Thanks That was very helping for me, and I have a silly question to you and to all Photon users,
when you ordered the printer from Anycubic website, did you select the "with resin and/or FEP option? and if not, was it shipped to you without any resin and without FEP at all (even without the 200ml resin and one FEP) ??
I know it is a very silly question, but I appreciate all your answers thanks
For me it shipped in a different package. And no i think if you dont select the option for it to ship with resin, it wont.
mine shipped all in the same box
Can’t seem to bring the plate down until it’s tight on the fep. It just doesn’t go down any further . Any thoughts
Is the back of the bar that the plate clamps to hitting the tray first? I've heard some early photons did this.
I tried this for the first time and my prints failed. Normally if I need to relevel it will only be a few failures. What did I do wrong? Do I need to be more ballsy and lower it even further onto the FEP?
If you followed this until it was tight to fep it should be level and in the right place.
I can't say without seeing it but I'd recommended re doing it and double check your resin settings for cure times.
I heard about the back rail on the photon tend to be set up poorly from the factory, I only have an FDM Ender-3 and there's the same issue about guide rail/slot/bearing's offset being way off(usually too tight). did you had the same problem?
Yes and no, it's a combination of things. The first printer I bought had Z wobble which wasn't fixed by re tensioning the bearings on the guide rail, this meant it was an alignment problem, I.e. manufacturing rather than assembly so I exchanged it, the second one has been great.
Still on the original FEP also.
You only need be concerned about this if you experience Z wobble, this shows as regular waves throughout the Z axis at consistent intervals.
@@spidiq8 thank you for your reply! some people in forum seemed to recommend the plain ol' photon compared to the S, but other than the S said to be having plastic body(outer shell only, hopefully), the additional price for upgrade on the Photon S seems good if it helps with longevity/consistency(the prices for 3D printers are priced differently in country where I live, Photon S and regular Photon is only about US$60 difference). I reckon that these DLP resin printing system is actually much simpler in mechanics than FDM, but that QC thing and robustness, seems like needing much more gentle care on both end user and manufacturer
@@Shiruvan You're welcome.
Hopefully you'll be up and running in no time, the reason most will recommend the original is because it has a massive support structure including software and resin testers and all sorts which is useful, but the S has the dual rails and the matrix array for more even light distribution across the plate.
Honestly, I've seen positive feedback about both do go with whichever you feel is the better deal for you.
I will say the software really does make a difference. Especially the exposure tester. The case materiel is neither here nor there as realistically most people will install it and not move it much so plastic v metal is not that relevant.
Using the paper method I don't move the z=0 up .3mm after securing the plate so I'm curious why it's necessary when levelling this way?
Because this way you're bringing the build plate down onto the FEP then tightening which moves it fractionally down further essentially pressing it to the FEP with no gap, hence raising it fractionally to allow that first layer to cure.
Sir when first print finished, then wash resin table, and print head, then again next day required again z leveling, or only fix head with screw without z leveling, and print start directly, without z leveling, next day printing
Once everything is set you don't need to re level or reset the Z height.
The easiest way. buy a film for lamination of documents of the thickness that you need. Thickness of 0.1 mm. This film will be used to replace the original! It saves time and money.
Interesting but debatable as to how good and reliable it is, I've read of a few experiments with mixed results.
Depending on where in the world you are FEP sheets or rolls can be gotten reasonably priced, I'd be wary of trying laminating plastic PET?
One sheet of paper is 0,1 mm. Do your math. The micrometer will tell you.
@@mickeyh2561 Or count out 100 sheets of paper, measure them and divide by 100 :D
@@siwilson1437 I have good reulds dooing the Flint Read method slightly diverend.
How hard are you turning the plate when are bringing it to FEP because my photon is maxed out bottom is making a noise that its maxed out and i can still wiggle it without a crazy amount of force.
If the plate is wiggling and fairly loose as in not firmly against the FEP the arm might be hitting the vat edge. This was a problem on some photons.
It should be tight against the FEP in the sense that you could pull the FEP out but couldn't push it in.
Similar with the paper method. With the paper method I was able to do that. Where I could pull the paper out evenly but not push it in but this method I can't seem to stamp down the FEP
@@chrishull1993 My guess is that the arm that the plate is on is hitting the back side of the vat before it's contacting the FEP. It's easy to check and you'll need to remove some material from the vat edge or arm where it hits.
I don't know why this occurred but there were a few photons with this problem.
Hi! I dont speak englis, but I know some english text. My question is: why he loosened the plate after setting zero point (at final video) I understood it. Thanks anyway!
He did that to show what you should do be for you level. When you tighten the screw it will push the plate down some. He suggested to tighten it as much as can and still be able to slightly move it.
@@kenusaga Thanks!!!
Would this method apply to the Photon Mono?
Excellent question and the answer is. I don't know. I'm not sure if the mono uses the exact same menu but theoretically yes it should.
Can anyone confirm this also working with an Elegoo Mars Pro?
I'm in dire need of help regarding prints not adhering to the build plate, and I've tried this method, but I think somewhere it goes wrong with trying to keep the build plate steady when tightening it, since the printer makes loud buzzing noises when doing 'Manual: Home' (or printing) after setting z=o with this method.
I am unfamiliar with the Elegoo mars but hopefully someone will see this and be able to help you.
Yes with slight tweak. For elegoo mars pro there is a spring in the build plate that provides some light pressure to begin with. Manually lowering the build plate will not change the pressure in the fep because of the spring. Rather, you will have to manually press down the plate on the fep. Holding medium pressure you tighten the build plate screws (front then side) while holding even pressure on the plate. Then raise 0.3mm.
@@forouza1 Very useful. Thank you for the info.
Try a fine dusting of cornflour or talc on your lcd screen just a small amount so you hardly see it and this stops the fep sticking to your lcd which adds to the suction that pulls the print off the build plate, try it I had nothing but failed prints before and now they all print also it doesn't mark anything it just wipes off.
Sir,
is this good for mash wire or pave jewelry like Turkish ??
Honestly I couldn't say but I do know that there are many jewellers who do use resin printers and castable resin. I'd say probably but would recommend you speak to someone who does make jewellery and uses these to see what's involved.
@@spidiq8 thanks
using this you will damage your fep earlier (even if you are carefull) . its actually better to buy thin sheets with a toleranced thickness. This things are readily available and are not expensive (like the fep).
Considering i'm on the original FEP and only levelled once, I'd have to disagree with you.
@@spidiq8 if it works for you great! But there is a reason we put in the manual to use a piece of paper; it is very unlikely to scratch the fep. A piece of aluminium (even when sanded down)? Not so much. Considering you have 11.3k subscribers you ought to be more intelligent about the tips you give people.
@@Trikkie87 Given that the paper levelling method isn't even on the FEP I'd think that a moot point?
However it's a very tiny amount of movement on the FEP which is very tough and you're doing it once if you do it properly. You don't have to relevel regularly unlike an FDM might require.
If you check the hugely popular photonsters GitHub and photon owners group on Facebook you'll see there are thousands of users levelling with this method. None of whom have problems damaging the FEP as you state. I am not the originator of this method and far from the first to use it but merely a proponent of it. Because it works.
Once, done. It touches the FEP once only.
It's not exclusively restricted to the vat either. Users could keep an old sheet specifically for this or indeed use paper of the same thickness to achieve the same result.
Simple fact is without pressing down securely on all sides it's nigh on impossible to guarantee straightness and level with a ball and socket clamp assembly.
How often does the build platform need to be leveled?
If you're careful removing the prints. Never.
I've levelled twice.
This one for video. (OK three times if you include the two sample methods here).
I used this for several prints then dropped the build plate onto the floor. 4ft to carpet, I levelled again after checking it for surface damage and cleaning just in case it had moved.
Several prints since and no need to attend to it.
@@spidiq8 Good stuff! Thanks so much for your quick reply. Getting ready to set up my Photon for a first print. Wish me luck! Lol
@@josh5397 Fingers crossed, if you've levelled correctly and are using the supplied resin and test settings you'll be good to go.
@@spidiq8 I'm very excited. Been wanting to print mechanical keycaps and such for a long time!
@@josh5397 Sure you'll love it. They're amazing machines, the quality from them for the cost is incredible.
Take a look at the back to the future print I did and painted for my son.
That's at stock settings 0.05 layer height. I've not yet had a need to go lower.
0.3mm seems high... I've been having all kings of screwed up prints on one side like its too far away
Bear in mind that you're not just letting the plate 'touch' the FEP, it's actually tightly sandwiched between LCD glass and plate. When you tighten the grunge l grub screw it will clamp tighter still so the actual gap will be more like 0.2.
Re your prints, do you mean they're not sticking to one side or the print itself during printing is messing up?
It's quite likely you either need to relevel checking that you are holding with even pressure both sides or you need to check your display is getting an even spread of UV or you need to increase first layer exposure. The latter is the most common cause of first layer failure.
Be careful with this technique!! I blew out my Z axis motor. If you lower the build plate too far, it will burn out the system.
You can tell when it hits bottom. Provided you only lower 1mm at a time it works no problem.