Insane Support Settings that actually work for Chitubox from a support master!
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- My settings for light medium and heavy supports, normally it would come with a warning "DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME" but not this video, because you SHOULD try this at home!
BUT!!! Don't use these unless you watch my other videos to make sure you use them correctly!
Okay definitely will be trying out these settings
Yes please test them out :)
Please make sure to watch one of my support placement videos before testing the settings:)
@Kamdyn Avi yea, I have been watching on flixzone for since november myself :D
Just started 3d printing and these tutorials are insanely helpful. The detail and cleanup on my minis has improved 100% since using these settings and placing my own supports instead of auto support. Thank you for sharing the info and helping us out!
By the way, how about adding a link to the .cfg for these settings in the description?
Thank you SO much for your videos! I have a lot of experience with FDM, but just got my Photon yesterday. After watching your videos, I'm getting incredible prints. This particular video is such an asset. Thanks again!
Thank you for the kind words, I set out to help people and it seems to be working :)
A kinderd soul; perfectionist to a fault, driven by probable ADD. Please continue with your highly informative content, many thanks for your efforts!
Thank you :D Works great. Now we need a " resin setting " Video for the best print results ;)
Chitubox keeps resetting my settings so I'm just going to post this for later use.
Light
Contact diameter: 0.12
Contact Depth: 0.12
Lower Diameter: 0.40
Connection Length: 1.50
Medium
Contact diameter: 0.2
Contact Depth: 0.3
Heavy
Contact diameter: 0.3
Contact Depth: 0.3
You may need to go into settings and create a profile based off your printer type instead of default
you sir are a hero :D
I just did my first prints using these settings. Oh my goodness, thank you so much! Being a n00b at this I was using autosupports but having watched a few of your videos, wow, what an amazing difference.
Thanks man. Really appreciate you sharing the knowledge.
Love your videos, they've helped me really improve my minis! The video going over your settings is great. One other thing you could do is also provide a downloadable configuration file with your support settings. It's super easy. In the support settings area, just under the Z Lift Height(mm) value you'll see the row with support setting: and 4 small icons. The first one IMPORTS support settings (.cfg file), and the second EXPORTS the current support settings! You may have already known this, and I apologize if you did and just chose to show them in a video instead. But regardless, a super easy way to share your current settings would be to export the .cfg file and then provide a link to your current settings somewhere.
At any rate...thanks again for taking the time to share your experiences and help us all take our game to the next level w/o all the trial and error you've already painstakingly gone through!
i second this!
@@jerilee4981 I thirden this!
Please give me a link to download the support settings (.cfg file) Thank you
I wanted to thank you for a great tutorial. I have taken what you said and have received comments on my prints, and how they are not showing the defects created from supports. Again, thank you for such a great tutorial.
Great video. Extremely helpful! I think the Contact diameter is only relevant when the Contact Shape is Sphere. Contact Depth does affect the touchpoint size even when the Contact Shape is None. Upper Diameter in Connection Shape together with the Contact Depth really determine the touchpoint size, which gives a touchpoint size of a bit larger than 0.3 mm in your light support settings.
exactly.
Funny thing is, this is almost the same settings I use, except I've only printed a handful of models. I saw my first print, realised the strength of the resin, and no, the defaults are way too high in every respect. This guy knows what's up.
Actually, I rarely use Medium supports personally.
I dont get what are mediums supposed to do, for heavy duty you use...well, heavy supports, fine details ho with light, medium are too big for details and too small for bases imho
You are the best for providing detailed and helpful information. Thank you so much. You're taking all of the scare factor out of setting up my new printer. Fingers crossed for a successful print!
First of all thank you for your content. It helped me a lot! Secondly, I would like to tell you that I had the same issue of the timeframe 5:58 as soon as I updated my Anycubic Photon firmware to version "Photon_firmware_V4.2.19", which is currently at the Anycubic website. I though it could be the USB stick that came with the printer, so I removed the vat and printed the model again, this time I saw the jiggle cube forms running the screen. So I sliced an rectangle covering the entire build area and printed, which showed me perfect both in the printed screens , but this problem kept going until I downgrade the firmware to ".17" and now my problem is gone.
Anyway, I just wanted to share this experience with everyone here.
Just purchased a Photon and have been binge-watching various channels, especially yours. I was going to ask if you spell out your settings and here they are! Thanks for all you have been doing I'm sure it's going to help ease my intro into resin printing.
I'm really new to resin 3d printing.. using this settings right off the bat!
As another user pointed out, to get these settings to work in the latest version (I’m using V1.8.1), you have to change the Upper Diameter parameter instead of the Contact Diameter since Contact Diameter only seems to apply to Sphere type shapes. Not sure if this is a bug or not but if this was intentional, they should have at least greyed out the Contact Diameter if it no longer applies to None type shapes.
Awesome - finally got your middle and bottom for Light and Medium. For some reason my stock settings were changed (gremlins) - so im hopeful that my Heavy middle of 1.2 dia and 70 angle are good and my bottom of 6.5 touch dia and 1.0 thickness are good
I've used your pointers to try out resin supports on some prints I run on my Ender... It's always amazing when it works out... I hope to be moving into resin printing within the next couple months.
Thats a great idea! Im trying that!
Thanks for doing this and ignore my other comments on your previous supports videos, I didn't get through your playlist yet DOH!
Hello. My wife and I recently bought our first resin printer, a Photon S, and with the resin provided we have started testing some prints. Just doing auto supports on small zombies and doppelgangers with decent results. After watching these videos I decided to try your support settings and do my own supports. Decided for a fairly complex Lich with fancy robe and floaty stuff.
With only about 4-5 heavy supports and rest 50/50 medium and lights the print just now got done, and the results was awsome. Printed flawlessly with just 2 supports I had placed to close to mini so I had to use pliers, rest just peeled off. I cant see any damage at all.
I am loving these settings and it will get our printing game to the next lvl.
Also have a question. Are you trying out Lychee? and are you going to do a Chitubox vs Lychee comparison. Lychee looks good but I am not sure if I want to spend money on a sub if Chitubox can provide the same thing.
Great video man. You should export that support config and share it with everyone:)
Thanks! Great info in all the videos. There's not that much out there about ChiTuBox & supports, so I appreciate.
Extremely grateful for this fantastic info.
Thank you so very much for your work Sir.
Awesome videos as always! Quick question. What Resin and resin print settings do you use? I love how your gray turns out.
I've been waiting for these settings! Thank you!
Started printing my minies on the Photon S a couple days ago (I'm at 70% failures sadly).
This series of videos has helped me a lot to understand how support is working though. Thank you very much!
By the way, where do you find your scatter terrains seen in your videos?
Like that bucket at the end of this video for example. :)
Keep at it. I had a few successes and then a whole string of failures and tweaked for a couple days. I finally have printed four minis without issue so I think I figured it out. I got mine a week ago.
Will try this right away :) Why don't you use the raft, though? I've had trouble with models breaking off or not printing at all if I don't use a raft...
I very much appreciate your taking the time to post this!
You're making amazing videos that help me learn . Thank you for making them, keep it up!!! . I would like some clarification on something though...I'm really confused by the settings you're describing. You talk about the TOP settings ..."Contact Diameter" and "Contact Depth" for your supports (in particular with Light supports )... but you're not actually using the "Contact Shape" option (None vs Sphere), so the values of 0.12 that you keep bringing up (I've heard it in 2 videos now) , to my understanding are not actually used by chitubox in your case. Your values of 0.3 and 0.4 upper/lower diameter are the ones that actually matter in your light supports. Is that not true? Thanks again!!! (PS. I use all your settings anyway and have good performance out of the supports... but I am starting to branch out and modify them to my liking and that's how I discovered that changing the 0.12 value ..when contact shape is set to None didn't do anything.)
This is exactly correct, no point changing the top two settings without the sphere shape. It's all determined by upper diameter without a shape. Lol
Thanks, super helpful. These are now my default settings
I'm having trouble understanding these settings because Contact Diameter is meaningless when Contact Shape is "None". Upper Diameter controls the size of the touch-point. Are these still the settings you use or have you adjusted Upper Diameter to be smaller? Thanks so much, your videos are awesome.
Trying out these settings.... on my first ever 3D printing run w the elegoo mars. I am not even going to print the rooks that came w elegoo. What a waste of resin that would be. Already saw them on video. I've been watching your other videos! Fantastic stuff! THANK YOU!
next paycheck, i'm joining your patreon, for no other reason than the 'Gladiator' Quote :D lol
Awesome! Can you make an insane support settings video for Lychee?
For the picture at 7:35, how did you get around having to support the chin of the leftmost model? Is the chin just tilted back enough that it doesn't create an island, and short enough that it doesn't create a problematic overhang?
That was my question too!
The most recent download for CHITUBOX (V1.6.1) does change the default settings for the middle of the light supports (or at least mine did). By default the middle diameter was not set to 0.8 mm as you have shown here.
Just noticed something. In this video your Medium supports for the Top are at Contact Diameter of (0.2) and Depth of (0.3) but your other video (Using Chitubox Part 2) the medium Top is at a Diameter of (0.25) and Depth of (0.2)... I have used both and they both work, it is just something I noticed while exporting my Profiles for a backup.
Do you still not do a raft? Seems like it saves you from the pain of removing a part from the plate.
As good as always :-) thanks for the videos
Let me ask you a question.
As I understand and hope I caught the essence of the support technique - it works on any 3D models.
But if we talk about jewelry.
A huge number of prongs, small empty spaces, small inscriptions, cut letters ( 0.2-0.3 mm) on two or three sides....
And the damage to the model should be minimal for subsequent processing.
Could you share your thoughts on how to minimize defects on the resin printing ring. With a lot of stones, curved and not important, but all very small and empty at 2-3 mm inside.....
Sincerely, HOMESTUDIOS
PS: Or perhaps you can advise me where I could get similar answers? After all, the essence is clear. But I'm trying to figure out how to work with very small objects
Thanks
Curious, have any of your settings changes since this video ?
Hmmm, looking at the chitubox file you made for the Artisan Guild, the supports don't look (much) like these settings, In particular, seems you are making all the supports wider, except for the contact points ? Would be really cool if you could share your entire configuration, for latest Chitubox! :-)
Well from this video got my light supports lower diameter was off at the end of the Umber Hulk tutorial, somehow? Oh welI, fixed it thanks!
Excellent! Thank you!
Great video!
Quick question, have you tried these settings for large prints ?
I wanna try it but i am low on resin for now and i just wanna make sure before trying it.
Thanks a lot.
Not sure what you mean by large but I think so. As long as you anchor all the key points properly, and also make sure you look and where there will be lots of suction on a large print you also properly support it should work perfectly
3DPrintingPro thanks will try it then👍🏼
When will you be doing a how to use lychee slicer. Since AG is pushing us to use Lychee instead! I would like to know your support settings for lychee and how you gen use lychee. By the way 90% of your newer supported models fail on a
qidi tech shadow 5.5s I know
Artisan and Guild doesn’t test that machine because the pre supported models have been failing a long while rhe last set that printed was ashen alfar only 1-2 needed help I think overall You’re using two smaller tips because the whole support Prince but the very tip doesn’t and it causes elephant footing and other stuff
I don't do the Artisan Guild supports for four months now :)
@@3dprintingpro212 omg! well it definitely shows TBH they started getting really small and not as clean about 4mo ago when they stopped giving the chitubox file. Tbh I bet they just using auto supports on lychee cause the past 4 months the models fail fail fail. What’s your take on lychee ? You still using chitubox or lychee
I made settings like yours that works great for me. I still have a problem at the anchor point.
I wanted to know what are your print settings?
Thank you for the settings
Great video. Testing the settings in Zsuite Slicer as I am trying to figure out why my ring prints come out oval vs circular when using Chitubox. The shape is not an issue in Z-suites using the same files. What could be the cause of this?
These settings don't do anything in the current version of chitubox; they only change the size of the contact shapes (which you aren't using). You need to change the lower and upper diameter settings to change the support sizes.
Edit:Contact depth still works, just contact diameter wont do anything for supports that aren't suing contact shapes.
Thank you so much for your comment. I just downloaded CURA and started using these settings, I thought they came out okay but left damage on my model.. as soon as I changed the upper and lower diameter settings like you said it became painfully obvious that that was the issue. Seriously thank you for the helpful advice!
These are not insane settings.
They are settings someone might think are risky.
I was hoping for insane settings like, I don't know, a support shaped like an insect's leg, or torch or something
With the bottom skate is the angle always the same on the base, so you can get a scraper under it? (not the large one we don't talk about)
Curious, how come my contact diameters and depths are about double yours but my model keeps failing from the supports?
Either lift speed too high or cure time too low or a combo of the two :)
@@3dprintingpro212 Current lift speed is 50 and exposure time 2.5s, bottom exposure 25s, and light delays 9s.
Would you recommend any print tests to check an ideal setting?
Beware, supports are too thin if printing at 0.02. You'll just be left with a heap of supports on your build plate as the model wouldve snapped from the thin supports.
You don't use the thin ones to anchor the models, you use my heavies, thin ones only get used to support tiny areas that need minimal support :)
@@3dprintingpro212 This makes sense, cheers :). It's a big step going from auto supports to manual so, still learning! Thanks for your tips.
These could be translated into lychee right? the only way I could try these would be to export slices from chitubox and try to convert with UVTools to PWMA but I'm not sure if this would work
Much appreciated
Would these support settings work for a larger piece like a bust ?
@3DPrintingPro did you change the connection length at all on the top settings under Heavy from 3.00mm ? I couldn't see that in the video.
I usually use 4mm :)
Thank you, my liege!
I think the newer versions of chitubox changed how the supports look. I was using these setting but after I updated I can't get the light supports to this super light look despite matching the settings.
hello ....when i tried to print a lara croft figurine after slicing it in chitubox with and with out a raft ...the print starts and after the raft is printed ,,,or in the other case the bottom of the supports,,,the print do not stick to the raft or the bottom of the supports ,,, and start sticking to the fep film .....
I just finished watching this series of support placement videos. I gave it a shot and had my first complete failure, oof. Sadly, autosupport did a better job than I :( I notice my supports don't seem to cross support each other when placed in close proximity, do you know of a setting that effects this?
don't despair, it does take some practice! also you have to make sure your resin settings are right for your machine and resin!
my model keeps coming way to high off the build plate. how can i make the supports shorter? this is my first time using a slicer like this.
Wouldn't these settings depend on what printer you use? There has to be more weight/surface area to think about supporting on a Phenom as opposed to a Mars.
Yes on a Phenom you may need to thicken them all a little, or conversely, you could raise your cure time a tad and slow lift speed to get success :) On any small printer with proper settings these work though!
@@3dprintingpro212 Thanks! I just found your updated support settings vid. Great work!
in summary : divide by 3 the diameter and deph contact of the supports then over support
New to chitubox and Resin printing but following along on these settings I have a few questions.
After setting these settings what should I select to run Auto supports. I see that by selecting bottom, middle or top and different thicknesses light, medium heavy. Auto supports does give you only what you selected rather than a combination of all the settings. If i can only choose one for auto supports which one do you recommend?
Also, I am running the photon validator to find every island that wasn't supported after the initial auto supports what is the best support to apply to islands, I am guessing it depends on height and thickness of islands but would like to hear your recommendation
it's why I don't use auto supports. But if I had to, I'd use heavies to start, other wise you'd have to go and replace a bunch with heavies anyway, then when you find islands, if they are not supporting a lot use lights, or mediums as you see fit, but it is a bit of practice and judgment!
3DPrintingPro the top, middle and bottom is referencing the height of the model correct? I’m not sure what it why they were define as such, rather than just have 3 categories of supports regardless of the height we’re they’ll be place. Maybe there is something I’m not understanding as far as why every height needs 3 thickness of supports. But I’ll try manually just seems like it will take forever
MrRrleonc689 I believe Top, Middle and Bottom are referring to the supports themselves.
Bottom = where it touches the build plate
Middle = the long cylinder going straight up
Top = where the support touches the model itself
i see no point in changing heavy from stock. heavy is meant to be HEAVY. its for you to add to points where adhesion, not damage control is key. so like the bottom of a miniature base for example. large flat areas where suction may be an issue, etc. heavy supports should never be used for anything other than as the one thing that holds the whole thing in place so the rest of your supports dont fail from suction force. you dont use heavy supports on areas with detail. they are for making the print behave itself whether it wants to or not.
True in some cases, but sometimes I do use heavies on more delicate parts of the model and then I do want them "lighter" :)
If I add supports in Chitubox and then Slice in Anycubic, should I update Anycubic to the same settings?
I'm still having a pain with some supports. Could I send a file to your patreon and get assistance on building supports?
sure
So I'm on my 3rd try with these settings (my model is very similar to the one at your 7m mark). I am leveled, I have other non-mini prints that have worked. It is failing by just printing the skate and nothing else. Any tips or diagnosis?
are you one the FB group The Tabletop 3D Printing Guild? If not join and post there with a pic of the model in your slicer, and your settings, and a pic of the result and I can help you directly :)
Amazing. This all makes sense. I was wondering though, in the print you show at the end, you have some suddenly heavy supports near the elbow. How do come to that decision?
If an arm is "hanging" and the elbow is the low point I find that if I don't use a heavy those elbows can fail easily and come out flat, which is a failure to me, so to be safe I almost always use a heavy at the low point of an arm that is hanging free :)
Will these supports work for a really large model? Lets say one that will use almost all printable area xyz?
absolutely, but use heavies in the right spots of course...
Greetings community! Now it is possible to export settings config file. Can somebody do that or type down ALL configuration numbers by hand? That would be incredibly helpful!
This video is amazing, stock supports are basically useless for everything, particularly useless for minis with those top diameters and depths, they pierced everything I tried to put them on until I watched the video and changed them
No matter what I try, I can't get these settings to result in anything but failed prints. I've followed your instructions to the letter, and watched your placement guides.
that means its your settings, maybe room tempertaure, maybe lift speed too high, I have a revised video coming out very soon which may help!
@@3dprintingpro212 settings are as recommended for an Elegoo Mars with the appropriate Resin, room is a stable 22C, and lift speed is default 100mm. I'm looking forward to your updated video! It's driving me insane that nothing I do seems to fix it!
2:23 book mark 4 me.
Do you still use these settings or have there been updates?
Still using them, getting same great results :)
Are these the setting you use on the Epax?
Yep
@@3dprintingpro212 I tried them out... Dude. You just might be a master.
Z lift height at 0?
I normally use 5 :)
I did something like that in selfcad.com
Would these work with an elegoo mars?
Its pretty much universal across SLA printers as long as you have the curing times set properly for the resin your using. Remember that the Mars is lesser power than the Photon, so requires a second or 3 longer cure times per layer compared to info you may see for the photon. Tuning the profiles for specific resins is just as important as tweaking anything else. Perfect support locations and settings will fail regardless if your cure time is even a second too short.
export file please
Would you be willing to export these or fully detail them in the description?
Dude. He just went over them in detail. Are you telling me you won't pause the video and write the settings down for yourself?
Can and did! Though it took me a bit to get it right. Much easier for everyone to export and import in one step. Super easy to do. Plus, could make it a central location he could update if and when he changes his recommendations.
@@andrewwalker1931 And actually he didn't cover all of it. Cant get all his settings. Could you share .cfg?