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Danny is the kind of guy who looks and sound altruistic and intusiastic and you can actually believe he's genuine. Keep doing what you're doing my man, great work as always!
Yesterday i finished my first print with the ender 3. Thanks to you and all your amazing videos. I would not have had the patience to do it without you and your channel. 💛
Can't give a company crap for making an opensource product for the community (even if there isn't internal support for other printers...look at how we can use it here, right?)
I’m really new to 3D printing, and I can’t tell you how much I appreciate you and this video. It helps me get XP enough to try new techniques without getting frustrated that I just suck.
Not sure if this is what you mean, but go to: "Print Settings" tab at the top, then "Pad" in the left menu. Make sure that "Advanced"(yellow) is selected at the top right, and edit the "Pad wall slope" to the desired degree. I use 45° and it creates a slope that let's me remove the raft more easily.
Just want to say Thank you for doing these videos. Every time i have had an issue printing or needed help setting up a new machine.. You wefe there with a video that answered everything.
Really appreciate this video, I've been watching a ton of videos prepping for my Photon arriving on Saturday and a lot of them don't explain things as well as you do, such as with the orientation, a lot of people just say "This auto orientation is bad." But dont say why, so I didn't know why it was bad or how to improve it, so thanks for being very clear about presenting your info! For us total newbies it really helps!
Just sliced up some models for the first time using Prusa Slicer. Thank you so much, saved me about an hour on these models from playing the manual support game. Had to place a couple final supports after running the auto support and pulling over to ChiTuBox. So much faster than the way I used to do it!
I'm just getting started with resin 3D printing. In fact, I'm waiting for my Anycubic Photon and my curing station now, and I've bought other supplies: resin, primer, etc. I've been watching videos on how to create supports and have been working on the technique in Chitubox. What you explain here is working amazingly well. I'm adding my supports in PrusaSlicer then bringing the model into Chitubox to look at it, slice by slice, and this seems to get all the islands in a very efficient manner. I have yet to try printing the models I've added supports to, but I'm eager to see how well that goes. So, thank you!
Right Notes bookmarks 4 me! 1:45 Prusa Slicer 1:59 Printer Settings / Add New Printer / Prusa MSLA/ Next Finish 2:48 Rclick Optimal orintation .... slow a bit poo so manual oriantate 3:48 Sla Support points (LHS) Support Density 75% Auto 4:55 Manual Editing 6:26 Adjust Support info 7:25 Export STL 7:35 Shit u Box to slice Then use Photon File anyliser find islands and add supports in Chitubox. Manual supports are a pain in the Arse really hoping this works !!!!
Hi Danny, go to pad settings and change the 90 degree angle to 45 if you want the easier to remove lip like the pad chitubox uses. Thanks for the video!
PreForm saves me alot of work... But this is way better... PreForm helped me starting but Prusa seems alot better to be honest Prusa + photonvalidator = perfect
I'm the same with when it comes to islands. For me it's about the major islands that will cause major issues. That being said, when in doubt support it.
Great video, very good info on the auto supports. I had seen a discussion on facebook and they were talking about this, now that I have seen it I know to use it. I just got my printer so this will be more than helpful for a rookie trying his hand at printing with a Mars resin printer. Thanks for the video!!!!
That's a massive number of supports. I've been using ChiTuBox with the auto supports. I found even at 30% it looked really dense. On my last print I just added them manually, maybe about 20 for a figure and it worked fine.
Danny, any plans to do a short video on your ChiTuBox settings? Do you use the defaults? Tweak them? Does it vary from one resin to the next? Etc. I ask, because I also follow Goobertown Hobbies, and he said you helped him with his settings to get really fast prints. That led me to believe you tweaked some things in ChiTuBox. At any rate...thanks for all you do!
Hmm...no matter how big the model is, the auto orientation is almost instant over here. Great video, i was doing this method for some time now and thought i was the only one! (Mars)
ooooh thank you for this video! still kinda new to printing and with either pressuported files failing or spending ages supporting my own files, this will be a time saver! (also maybe it will protects me from trying to kitbash flat limbs and such xD) I will test it out on my next printing!
my view on supports, is i would rather take the time and get it right prior to hitting print, rather than going back to reprint because of failures. Everything in a resin printer is a consumable. the resin, the screen, the cleaning solution, etc. best to minimize usage of all of it by getting supports right from the start. best way to get them right is to know how to build them manually.
Tried Prusa's auto-supports after seeing this video. They seem to suck just about as hard as Chitubox's. Literally dozens of unsupported (>1px) islands left floating around. Some of them THOUSANDS of pixels in size. If I hadn't been running things through the Photon Validator before printing, I'd have most likely punctured the FEP and cried a lot. Auto-supports suck the big falota. Looks like it's still one of those, "If you want it done right, do it yourself," kind of situations with supports in 2021...
I'm currently trying to build a tool that does supports from the chitubox/photon file instead of the 3d model directly. This allows more control directly having access to the resulting "pixel grid" but it is really ressource demanding. If you could totally automate the process, supporting every island and not have supports going through your model, but it took like 5 to 30 mins to compute, depending on the complexity of the model, would you use this ?
muuuuuuch better than chitubox!! however, i noticed very little support on the edges of the base. in my experience that has led to warping of the base (and really any flat surface facing the build plate). how do you find that issue affecting you?
I have not used prusa slicer yet but it seem very odd to me to use one slicer, then export it into another slicer to slice. Can prusa not actually slice for SLA printers at this point?
The way I do my minis is to support them and save that file separately from the original model anyway. So you can just drag supported models into chitubox and fill up the plate. For me, using two slicers isn’t an issue since I end up using chitubox two separate times anyway.
CR10S Pro owner here so not a resin printer at all, but, is there any reason to not print it flat on the bed ? Will it stick too much or is it easier for the light to cure the resin if there's as less as possible contact with bed ?
I do print some resin prints flat on the bed. The biggest reason you wouldn't want to is specifically for bigger prints - the suction forces can cause problems when it's lifting and has such a wide area on the plate (so it will stick too much). This isn't really a problem with smaller minis, but can be for the bigger ones. It can also create smoother prints as the top layers aren't as visible (even with a mini like this you can really see it sometimes if it's perfectly flat and there are lots of flatter parts on the top of the mini). I still print like this all the time, though.
Danny! Where did you get those awesome containers? Thanks for the video, as always. Super useful and I can't wait to start trying it out with my new Elegoo Mars when it comes on Monday! I hope all is well.
Hello, Thank you for this excellent video, I will test it tonight. I just have a general question, for my understanding. Why don't you also do the slicing in PrusaSlicer ?Is Chitubox more powerfull at slicing level than PS ? I would like to understand the exact reason for your choice. I own an SL1 that I use for jewelry and I obviously want the best result for my very small and very detailed parts. Thank you in advance for your answer.
I had a lot of hope with this only to see that, my Photon Zero still prints amazing supports and "fep"-cakes! would love your feedback as I don't have issues with the supports and base of the supports sticking to the build plate, I have a mandalorian helmet (small photon zero size) set with optimized orientation via Prusa ( ended up upside down)...Support density at 75%. is this an issue that can be fixed with increasing exposure time? Ordered a new FEP tray as well.
I do this within Chitubox (generate autosupports and manually edit) Can you talk about the advantages of adding Prusa slicer to the workflow? The only difference I see is the 'autorotate' feature (generally I like to do the rotation, it's quick!) Are the support designs better? Autosupports are more intelligent in Prusa?
I wish I could reply with a picture showing the difference on a textured print. The Chitubox autosupports left it covered in scars whereas the Prusaslicer one pulled away without a single scar and yet supported it perfectly.
Could you combine thing with using the Photon File Validator? So, auto-support in Prusa, into ChiTuBox and slice it, import into Photon File Validator and get notification of islands? EDIT: Okay, I just saw you said exactly that. Great minds, and all that.
I am having the exact same issue. I've been messing around with the program to find the auto orient and is nowhere to be found. Also the auto support is button isnt present.
There sure is a gap in the market - but the solution isn't simple. This is a pain point for everyone: sculptors, customers, and so on. It seems the market is moving towards including supports with models these days though!
The latest PrusaSlicer (2.1.1) is too helpful. Trying to do an SLA printer, it still tried to shove filament specs down your throat. You can still get 2.1.0 on the Prusa site. Don't let it update on you.
using prusa slicer 2.1.1. I was disappointed. there was no auto-orientation feature. dunno about the supports but finding the best orientation alsways troubled me so that's sad. if that feature was just moved, please someone, tell me where
HELP! I tried this method, and the only thing that printed was the supports, no model :( What settings can i tweak to get the model to stay attached to the supports?
Hi 👋🏻 nice video. I have one question. Should I make any changes with the supports or i can leav original settings in prusa slicer?? Thank you for your answer :) (ps.: I'm sorry for my bad english)
And one more question : How i can control my supports when i can´t use Photon file validator, because i have Creality LD 002R and she dont support same format as anycubic :(
Bingo - what Amy shared. Chitubox and Anycubic love to put supports that intersect with the models (you can guess why this is a problem for minis in particular). I've found that it handles hard-to-reach overhangs much better as well, and the interface to add manual supports is much cleaner as well.
Support the Channel!
🎁 Uncharted Lands Late Pledges: 3dpt.me/uncharted-late-pledge
⚠ Pick up Previous Late Pledges: 3dpt.me/late-pledges
🏆 Become a Patron: 3dpt.me/support
Danny is the kind of guy who looks and sound altruistic and intusiastic and you can actually believe he's genuine. Keep doing what you're doing my man, great work as always!
Yesterday i finished my first print with the ender 3. Thanks to you and all your amazing videos. I would not have had the patience to do it without you and your channel. 💛
Really glad I was able to help out a bit, Melissa. Happy printing!
Danny, holy crap this is saving me so much time! I was ready to give up on printing resin! I appreciate it.
Prusa killing it. I know they get some crap from the community, but I've always enjoyed using their slicer.
Can't give a company crap for making an opensource product for the community (even if there isn't internal support for other printers...look at how we can use it here, right?)
I’m really new to 3D printing, and I can’t tell you how much I appreciate you and this video. It helps me get XP enough to try new techniques without getting frustrated that I just suck.
This works great. However I wish Prusa had a flared edge to allow the raft to come easier of the plate.
Not sure if this is what you mean, but go to: "Print Settings" tab at the top, then "Pad" in the left menu. Make sure that "Advanced"(yellow) is selected at the top right, and edit the "Pad wall slope" to the desired degree. I use 45° and it creates a slope that let's me remove the raft more easily.
@@diegovasquezcaballero That's exactly what I mean...testing out now, thanks!
You can for sure give it a flared edge, I do it on my prints.
that's cooool.
Just want to say Thank you for doing these videos. Every time i have had an issue printing or needed help setting up a new machine.. You wefe there with a video that answered everything.
And now I finally understand why so many of my prints were failing.... thanks for doing this video mate, really appreciate this!! :)
Wow, thank you so much for this! I'm brand new to all this, but this little tid bit gave me my first successful print! Thank you!
Really appreciate this video, I've been watching a ton of videos prepping for my Photon arriving on Saturday and a lot of them don't explain things as well as you do, such as with the orientation, a lot of people just say "This auto orientation is bad." But dont say why, so I didn't know why it was bad or how to improve it, so thanks for being very clear about presenting your info! For us total newbies it really helps!
Seriously go thank all your miniature friends. basically every big mini youtuber has recommended i come here. subbed
Thanks for the method, tried it now for quite a few minis and so far no problems! I am quite new to 3d printing and this tutorial helped me a lot!
Danny can you do me a favor and show us your resin printing workspace?
Using Prusa 2.3.0 can anyone find this functionality anywhere?
Just sliced up some models for the first time using Prusa Slicer. Thank you so much, saved me about an hour on these models from playing the manual support game. Had to place a couple final supports after running the auto support and pulling over to ChiTuBox. So much faster than the way I used to do it!
I'm just getting started with resin 3D printing. In fact, I'm waiting for my Anycubic Photon and my curing station now, and I've bought other supplies: resin, primer, etc. I've been watching videos on how to create supports and have been working on the technique in Chitubox. What you explain here is working amazingly well. I'm adding my supports in PrusaSlicer then bringing the model into Chitubox to look at it, slice by slice, and this seems to get all the islands in a very efficient manner. I have yet to try printing the models I've added supports to, but I'm eager to see how well that goes. So, thank you!
Right Notes bookmarks 4 me!
1:45 Prusa Slicer
1:59 Printer Settings / Add New Printer / Prusa MSLA/ Next Finish
2:48 Rclick Optimal orintation .... slow a bit poo so manual oriantate
3:48 Sla Support points (LHS) Support Density 75% Auto
4:55 Manual Editing
6:26 Adjust Support info
7:25 Export STL
7:35 Shit u Box to slice
Then use Photon File anyliser find islands and add supports in Chitubox.
Manual supports are a pain in the Arse really hoping this works !!!!
Hi Danny, go to pad settings and change the 90 degree angle to 45 if you want the easier to remove lip like the pad chitubox uses. Thanks for the video!
You should try the PreForm software for Island locating :)
Much easy to visualise than the photon file validator
Now that's a new one for me. Will check it out! THANK YOU!
PreForm saves me alot of work... But this is way better... PreForm helped me starting but Prusa seems alot better to be honest
Prusa + photonvalidator = perfect
PreForm does not support Linux. Deal Breaker for me.
I'm the same with when it comes to islands. For me it's about the major islands that will cause major issues. That being said, when in doubt support it.
Well said, Daniel!
Ooooh. Thank you for demonstrating this slicer. I am seriously digging this interface! I just might add this program to my workflow!
Great job sir!
Thank you, great video! Well explained!
Danny a you best!!!!thanks i stay min distance 5 mm very good!
Thanks for the help!
Great video, very good info on the auto supports. I had seen a discussion on facebook and they were talking about this, now that I have seen it I know to use it. I just got my printer so this will be more than helpful for a rookie trying his hand at printing with a Mars resin printer. Thanks for the video!!!!
That's a massive number of supports. I've been using ChiTuBox with the auto supports. I found even at 30% it looked really dense. On my last print I just added them manually, maybe about 20 for a figure and it worked fine.
I appreciate the help, and also directing to the manual method as well. Cheers
I love prusaslicer for auto supports otherwise id probably never use my mars.
Your videos are a blessing
Danny, any plans to do a short video on your ChiTuBox settings? Do you use the defaults? Tweak them? Does it vary from one resin to the next? Etc. I ask, because I also follow Goobertown Hobbies, and he said you helped him with his settings to get really fast prints. That led me to believe you tweaked some things in ChiTuBox. At any rate...thanks for all you do!
Hmm...no matter how big the model is, the auto orientation is almost instant over here. Great video, i was doing this method for some time now and thought i was the only one! (Mars)
I appreciate the walkthrough immensely... but I have to know, where did you get that Peanuts Zelda Tee??? I need one so badly!
Serendipity I was just having this issue this morning thinking to myself I need a better support option.
Awesome! I hope it works out and you like it as much as I do!
Love this! im getting great results with the lost adventure files now! saved me so much time ! :D
ooooh thank you for this video! still kinda new to printing and with either pressuported files failing or spending ages supporting my own files, this will be a time saver! (also maybe it will protects me from trying to kitbash flat limbs and such xD) I will test it out on my next printing!
Thanks Danny super helpful and I am going to try this
You're welcome, William! Have fun - hope you enjoy it as much as I have so far :)
Man thank you for everything you do. Hope you're doing well man. Love your content.
Timely video, resin printer on my Xmas list
This is very helpful. Thank you.
great tutorial ...and great t-shirt! XD
Love the shirt :)
Danny you've save me so much time.
my view on supports, is i would rather take the time and get it right prior to hitting print, rather than going back to reprint because of failures. Everything in a resin printer is a consumable. the resin, the screen, the cleaning solution, etc. best to minimize usage of all of it by getting supports right from the start. best way to get them right is to know how to build them manually.
Good to know, also awesome T-shirt
Auto supports are cool but you still have to check the models.
Fantastic video! Thanks Danny!!
Is there a way to use uvtools instead of the file validator in that last step?
What are those boxes in the background with IPA? where you clean your models right after printing?
Tried Prusa's auto-supports after seeing this video. They seem to suck just about as hard as Chitubox's.
Literally dozens of unsupported (>1px) islands left floating around. Some of them THOUSANDS of pixels in size. If I hadn't been running things through the Photon Validator before printing, I'd have most likely punctured the FEP and cried a lot.
Auto-supports suck the big falota. Looks like it's still one of those, "If you want it done right, do it yourself," kind of situations with supports in 2021...
I'm currently trying to build a tool that does supports from the chitubox/photon file instead of the 3d model directly. This allows more control directly having access to the resulting "pixel grid" but it is really ressource demanding. If you could totally automate the process, supporting every island and not have supports going through your model, but it took like 5 to 30 mins to compute, depending on the complexity of the model, would you use this ?
Hey! It's Morgan from Chuck lol ;D!
this is such a great video thank you so much for sharing its helped me out loads !!!
muuuuuuch better than chitubox!! however, i noticed very little support on the edges of the base. in my experience that has led to warping of the base (and really any flat surface facing the build plate). how do you find that issue affecting you?
Frigging love the shirt!!!
Nice Video ! I will test it now.
And i like your washing boxes, do u have a link for them ?
I have not used prusa slicer yet but it seem very odd to me to use one slicer, then export it into another slicer to slice. Can prusa not actually slice for SLA printers at this point?
It sure can - but it can't slice for the Photon, X1, Mars, etc.
The way I do my minis is to support them and save that file separately from the original model anyway. So you can just drag supported models into chitubox and fill up the plate.
For me, using two slicers isn’t an issue since I end up using chitubox two separate times anyway.
CR10S Pro owner here so not a resin printer at all, but, is there any reason to not print it flat on the bed ? Will it stick too much or is it easier for the light to cure the resin if there's as less as possible contact with bed ?
I do print some resin prints flat on the bed. The biggest reason you wouldn't want to is specifically for bigger prints - the suction forces can cause problems when it's lifting and has such a wide area on the plate (so it will stick too much). This isn't really a problem with smaller minis, but can be for the bigger ones. It can also create smoother prints as the top layers aren't as visible (even with a mini like this you can really see it sometimes if it's perfectly flat and there are lots of flatter parts on the top of the mini). I still print like this all the time, though.
can you put support for an STL file without linking it to a printer then export that STL file (with support) els where?
Danny! Where did you get those awesome containers? Thanks for the video, as always. Super useful and I can't wait to start trying it out with my new Elegoo Mars when it comes on Monday! I hope all is well.
Thanks for this Danny, such a time saver! Just wanted to ask, are you still using this same application and workflow or did you update anything?
does this work with other printers such as Elegoo or Anycubic? thanks!
Hello,
Thank you for this excellent video, I will test it tonight. I just have a general question, for my understanding.
Why don't you also do the slicing in PrusaSlicer ?Is Chitubox more powerfull at slicing level than PS ? I would like to understand the exact reason for your choice. I own an SL1 that I use for jewelry and I obviously want the best result for my very small and very detailed parts.
Thank you in advance for your answer.
What are those print washing tubs?
When would you do the hollowing? After supports in Chitubox?
I had a lot of hope with this only to see that, my Photon Zero still prints amazing supports and "fep"-cakes! would love your feedback as I don't have issues with the supports and base of the supports sticking to the build plate, I have a mandalorian helmet (small photon zero size) set with optimized orientation via Prusa ( ended up upside down)...Support density at 75%.
is this an issue that can be fixed with increasing exposure time?
Ordered a new FEP tray as well.
Love it!!
Will this work with the elegoo mars pro??
I don't see this option. I am on a mac, running Prusa Slicer 2.5.0
How does this compare to Lychee's auto supports? Anyone tried both?
I do this within Chitubox (generate autosupports and manually edit) Can you talk about the advantages of adding Prusa slicer to the workflow? The only difference I see is the 'autorotate' feature (generally I like to do the rotation, it's quick!) Are the support designs better? Autosupports are more intelligent in Prusa?
I wish I could reply with a picture showing the difference on a textured print. The Chitubox autosupports left it covered in scars whereas the Prusaslicer one pulled away without a single scar and yet supported it perfectly.
@@dawnjones8016 That just sounds like a settings issue rather than one slicer versus another or auto supports versus manual.
Could you combine thing with using the Photon File Validator? So, auto-support in Prusa, into ChiTuBox and slice it, import into Photon File Validator and get notification of islands? EDIT: Okay, I just saw you said exactly that. Great minds, and all that.
What containers are you using for your rinses?
So with this method, would you hollow larger models in prusaslicer?
Adding the printer doesn't seem to work on 2.2.0. I can't seem to get an MSLA printer added
I am having the exact same issue. I've been messing around with the program to find the auto orient and is nowhere to be found. Also the auto support is button isnt present.
Awesome
Does anyone have a link to those green lid containers he uses to wash the prints?
What happens without the supports, if you try printing it standing straight?
Surely there's a gap in the market for some kind of way for people to share their hand done supports to benefit everyone?
There sure is a gap in the market - but the solution isn't simple. This is a pain point for everyone: sculptors, customers, and so on. It seems the market is moving towards including supports with models these days though!
What containers are you using for the alcohol?
Now if only I could slice directly. I know, small convenience but still, would be nice. Of course, Prusa has no reason to add support for the EPAX.
I agree 100%. Would be nice! Maybe we can see a mod from the community at some point in the future :)
I found that you can go way down on support density
I tried and got some failures, but it could have been an exposure issue as I was having some issues at first with the resin at that time.
i also ignore the ilands that are around 1-3 Pixels
thanks for the vid :) I auto support with CHITUBOX.
The latest PrusaSlicer (2.1.1) is too helpful. Trying to do an SLA printer, it still tried to shove filament specs down your throat. You can still get 2.1.0 on the Prusa site. Don't let it update on you.
@3D Printed Tabletop - Great video, it taking forever btw, is a limitation of your CPU, Its almost instant for me.
hello like your video where did you get the cleaning contains from please
using prusa slicer 2.1.1. I was disappointed. there was no auto-orientation feature. dunno about the supports but finding the best orientation alsways troubled me so that's sad. if that feature was just moved, please someone, tell me where
HELP! I tried this method, and the only thing that printed was the supports, no model :( What settings can i tweak to get the model to stay attached to the supports?
You print figure on normal 3d printer or coreXY?? Don't know what better for miniature coreXY or normal 3d printer.
Excellent video! Thanks for the advice, will you by chance have a link to buy the containers where you clean the resin please ?¡
I found these on Amazon, they are pretty awesome .....smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD1F7HD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Would these supports also work for FDM printers?
Hi can I use this on ELEGOO Mars Pro thanks
The short form of this video is: auto-supports still suck massive balls, even in Prusa.
What is your settings for resin?
Hi 👋🏻 nice video. I have one question. Should I make any changes with the supports or i can leav original settings in prusa slicer?? Thank you for your answer :) (ps.: I'm sorry for my bad english)
And one more question : How i can control my supports when i can´t use Photon file validator, because i have Creality LD 002R and she dont support same format as anycubic :(
Tutorial starts at 1:42
Looks just fine, but doesn't look any better than ChiTuBox's auto-supports... what am I missing?
ShadowDrakken just for starters, it doesn’t ever place a support so that the post is touching the model.
Bingo - what Amy shared. Chitubox and Anycubic love to put supports that intersect with the models (you can guess why this is a problem for minis in particular). I've found that it handles hard-to-reach overhangs much better as well, and the interface to add manual supports is much cleaner as well.
@@MistImp1 Ah, ok. That wasn't immediately clear. Thanks!