Fantastic video as always. I really appreciate how to take these different parts of resin printing and break them down in a way that isn't scary and makes it easy to understand. I wish I would have had this video the first time I replaced my FEP... I was so nervous I was going to ruin something. Keep up the great work!
Also worth noting that you should be testing for this with the FEP facing open air (as he does in the video) and *not* the surface of your table. Doing the latter will get you multiple peaks and higher frequency measurements depending on the surface your FEP is resting on.
ive come back to this video many times and its always a little frustrating trying to find the exact time when he says this info so thanks. surprised he hasn't put it in the description of the video yet
Thank you kind sir, I was about to give up trying to renew my FEP and watching your video has saved me (or should I say my printer) - I was not getting the tuning correct and wasted 5 sheets of FEP and now back enjoying the printer again. Thank you Thank you Thank you
Thank you, just grabbed a new photon as the last one came with a busted LCD, had about 50 failed prints in a row, and one successful one, took out the default FEP because it had become so worn out in just a few days of things getting stuck to it. Upon analyzing it's sound, it wasn't even remotely close to tight enough. Just ordered some new sheets, this video makes it looks less stressful than I'd thought.
Nice tip, using the sound analyzer to "tune" the FEP. I dread having to change mine out when the time comes, but your video makes it look slightly more tolerable than others.
Thanks for the video. I just got a resin printer last week and already had to replace the FEP plate. My dumbass scratched the hell out of it trying to clean it after a failed print...learned my lesson. Bought some replacements, went to replace it on my own, following the instructions were on the package, that had no mention of a bottle cap or keeping it raised above the bracket...needless to say I am replacing the FEP again. Thanks for the video. Showed me what I was doing wrong.
Thanks for posting this. I was having a lot of failed prints and this video fixed it. The film was not any where near tight enough. Been fine since doing the tuning adjustments in your video. 👍👍
There is a Tutorial from Anycubic himself but, since I trust your Experience I did go your Way changing my FEP ( after around 1 Year ) . Thank you again for your Videos and keep it up this Way.
fantastic FEP change IN DETAIL. Same quality details as the Photon leveling video. As was true with that video, FEP changes have a lot of variables that most gloss over, but not you sir. Thank you for hitting every point. Got that one missing detail I was missing from everywhere else here. *_OUTTA CURIOSITY_* -- Can you buy bad FEP that just isn't the right stuff, like a bad lot or whatever?
Excellent tutorial, Love this guy's video's. I bought my printer last week and had so many failed prints until I tightened the FEP using this as a tutorial. I also bought some WD-40 anti friction dry ptfe spray, squirt some on (it will go milky white but will clear in seconds) and wipe it off with a microfibre cloth and EVERY print has come out beautifully since.
thank you very much sir i wasnt sure how to change my FEP out and i found your video and you walked me right through the process sir you haved help me alot through my journey of resin 3d printing sir and i readlly do appreciate a lot sir
Greatly appreciated, sir! I'm about to change my FEP for the first time, and this makes it look really easy! I'm hoping I can find an Android app that works as well as the one you're using.
"Recessed holes" aka "chamfered holes" (sham-furred). Anycubic could have fixed all of this non-sense with a few alignment pins. The tuning part! WOW! Very nice. The app worked even over the internet into my speakers!
@ 7:48 - "countersunk" is the word... ;-) Sorry, couldn't help it! Love your vids - great sense of humour and delivery, maybe I relate because I believe we're roughly the same age!...Just waiting for my Photon to arrive and absorbing what I can.
I just bought some fep for my Orange 10 and was looking at The 3D Club but ended up going with F1rst Layer. It was cheap and is working very well so far.
Thank you! This was a very painless FEP replacement. I couldn't download the app you used (Android here) so I had to search for one that works but managed.
Just changed my FEP, and your video provided me with all of the tools to have a successful FEB change. Thank you for the great information. Your videos are a great source for all 3D printers alike.
Literally tone matched to your video...printing my first print now. Hope you got it right, else I'm coming for you! Nah kiddin' man, thanks for the info! Really helpful :D
i bought some sovol vats for my anycubic photon mono and they forgot to remove the protective film from the FEPs, which made bubbles between the two layers. i took one out, removed the film, and put it back in and it's only measuring 160hz even through the screws are all completely bottomed out. i tested the other one that still has the protective film and it's only 190hz. how important is it that the tightness is 350hz? if it is going to cause problems then i guess i can just order some FEP sheets and make a fresh one, but i've also read in negative reviews that some people can't even get their sheets to tighten tight enough because there just isn't enough travel in the design of this vat.
Do you have any other app recommendations? I cant find it on my android and I have no clue how to red the others ones. Just starting the other apps show 1000+ hz with no sounds what so ever
gatorade cap>? Certainly there must be a more standard option right? Any suggestions other than gatorade because thats ambiguous. what else can be used?
Hey I'm having a problem. I removed both films on the fep and I installed the fep successfully. I tried printing and it wont stick to the build plate. Any suggestions? Edit: the time that I set for each layer was too low and it didn't harden fast enough, causing it to come lose from the plate
Want to start by saying that I am greatly appreciative of your videos and that they were the deciding factor on whether I purchased a 3D Printer or not. Well, I bought one. An Anycubic Photon. Ran into a bit of a scare after my 3rd successful print (first failure was due to improper zeroing), when I heard an odd emanating from the printer. Turns out, there was a slight puncture in the FEP and it had leaked a couple drops of resin down onto the screen and was being cured. I am HOPING that I managed to catch it before any serious damage had occurred. I was able to gently scrape the partially cured resin from the screen, ran a couple UV projection tests, and it appears everything is in working order. However, I purchased my printer via Amazon, and apparently it didn't come with an extra FEP in the box. My question; How did you make out with the 3D Club FEP? Comparable to the AnyCubic branded FEP or?
1. The "HOLES" are called Countersunk Screw Holes. 2. Since the resin gets between the FEP and Tensioner do I need separate vats for water washable resin and standard resin? 3. Also, can you just use your wash station to clean the resin off the 3 metal parts?
I think I found a better way to tune the tightness of the FEP film. Hold your film next to your computer speaker and vary the frequency using an online frequency generator until you hit the resonant frequency. You will know you have hit the resonant frequency when the film vibrates the most, kind of like a tuning fork without having to smack the delicate FEP film. Mine started to show small dents even with an eraser.
I had a problem that when I tried to print 3 minis across the middle, the middle one always failed (just a puddle on the FEP, nothing on the plate). On the other hand, if I printed anything in the middle of the FEP with nothing on either side, no problem. Last night I changed the FEP reprinted the same exact file with the same resin, and everything failed. I did get rafts and supports but the rest was stuck to the FEP or flat and stupid looking on the supports. Now I will say my ability to get a Hz reading with my sound analyzer app is highly inconsistent. I also don't like denting the FEP. I suspect by these two problems that there could be a tensioning problem across the surface of the FEP. Sides vs middle. Any thoughts? And how can I get a FEP tuned that I can print a whole build plate of stuff? Thanks!
First thing I would check would be your build plate to make sure it is flat. Lay a straight edge (Steel ruler) on the plate and hold both up to a light source. Can you see any light leaking through the space between the ruler and the build plate? If your plate is level, make sure you have the build plate leveled consistently all the way around. My method of leveling works, but the "Flint Read" Method works very well also. Another thing you might check is the exposure time on your bottom layers. You might bump them up a bit. Have you ever ran the Photon Exposure test on your resin?
@@3DPrintFarm I appreciate your help. There was only one variable change though, I replaced the FEP (and it's tension). I've uploaded before and after pictures if you care to have a look. photos.app.goo.gl/qpHHyZcGCiQYk5Xy5 The before photo has a puddle in the middle (on the build plate), the after has models ripped from their supports. So is after too tight or too loose? Thanks again!
Your videos are so amazingly helpful but could you please add some critical information, upon your next update or perhaps in a caption, letting users know to remove any protective film specifically from the Anycubic FEP or any other manufacturers that place a protective film on it. Anycubic's video and every tutorial I've ever seen does not mention this point and it's a critical cause of failure for prints. It's not readily apparent if you just dive into RUclips as your step-by-step location for new users. Keep the amazing training coming.
If you have a cordless drill and a spare allen key, you can cut off a section of the allen key with a hack saw or something and put that in the drill. I wouldn't recommend the drill for putting it back together, but taking it off will save you some time.
Are small scrathes a Problem. I had a problem with my first prints where the prints stuck to the FEP and not the Printbed, had to use some force to remove it. What could be the reason for it not sticking. the testprint cube i did right before that worked perfektly. So it shold have been level. or do I need to level it between prints ?
Greetings from Italy , I love your videos, they have a lot of valuable information, thank you for sharing your knowledge. One question I just bought the anycubic photo mono and the one to wash and cure the 3 d pieces. Could I use 99% denaturated alcohol? I know that the one they recommend is Isopropyl alcohol. Thanks for your attention.
Great video. Would it be the same Hz range for larger bed printers such as the Anycubic Mono x due to the larger print surface. Thank you in advance. Keep up the great work.
one thing i always wantet to say: didnt had a bottle cap and used some sponge. so the final tension got higher than i wanted before the screws got deep enough. that means if you wanna hit a certain frequency and you stop screwing the screews in check for the lowest part. if you screws are still to low your fep isnt flat on your screen. had to tighten it up much more. anyway i have no issue with a frequency over 500hz. makes me wonder how many peopel have problems through protruding screws.
So i recently changed my fep on my elegoo mars and initially had issues with it sticking too well to the fep film. I didn't tune it though, I just tightened all the screws all the way down like the elegoo instructions say.. lol. Do you think I may have stretched the fep too much? I can still hear an audible peeling sound every time the plate lifts up, and im getting some random minor layer lines in my prints.
Great video on Anycubic FEP tuning. Used it on the 2 AC printers I have and the tuning greatly decreased print failure. Am wondering if you or anyone watching has found a way to tune Wanhao D7 vat FEPs? They don't have the two steel gaskets....only one and therefore one set of screws to fasten and pull the FEP taunt at the same time. Seems critical to have the FEP fairly tight before piercing for screw holes. FEP tuning frequency is a crap shoot in the end. Any suggestions most appreciated.
I guess when i get different Numbers while "Drumtesting" like 328Hz everywhere but 420Hz in one corner i have to release tension in that corner right? I saw it made a big difference if if had the VAT Standing on one side (like in your video) or if i held it in hand. So i decided to place it with the long side on the Table. Am Testprinting right now... hope it works :D i just finetuned i'm still affraid of changing the FEP without having an emergency VAT at the ready lol... Nice Video and good tip with the spectrum analyzer!
Great question! And you have a good point! I level mine out of habit. You'll find sometimes you will have to relevel your machine when prints are acting strangely as in not sticking. Bolts get loosened and the build plate may get out of alignment after multiple prints.
why is it we have to relevel the bed after changing the FEP since these aren't connected? reason I'm asking is that my bed hasn't been releveled in almost 2 years (400-500 hours) of printing and even though it probably wouldn't change anything I'm woried that doing it might change something that has been working for ages
is it a bad Idea to increase the layer size to 0.2mm when printing straigt objects like a cubus ? theoreticaly it should hve no effeckt on looks and just decrease the printing time but are there other side effects?
what can I do to remove the print from the FEP ithout scratching it? And could it also be a problem of exposure time ? should i make the exposure time longer? Can anything bad happen from making the exposure time too long ?
is all this info true for any FEP (8.9", 15.6", etc), or only for the one shown here? If not, what are the frequencies required for others? How did you determine the ideal frequency range?
Wish they would specify. Support documentation on all aspects of Anycubic is lacking. Things like how do you update the firmware? Are never answered without contacting support or finding others who have done it before.
Real stupid question but could I use the cap of a milk container or a distilled water container for the spacer instead of the cap of gatorade or soda? I don't know how the sizes compare and if it is that critical. I've never replaced the FEP before.
It's a shame that obtaining a new vat or build plate to go along with our new FEP is so difficult. I found one supplier but they're always out of stock. Might need to make them ourselves apparently. Thoughts?
I purchased a new vat on Amazon a couple weeks ago from an authorized Anycubic seller and have been really happy with it. I do agree, however, I'd like to see someone make up some reliable build plates and vats. It sure does make things handy when going from print to print. Here's the link to the vat I purchased. www.amazon.com/dp/B07MGV9PYK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_UPzGCbTHAH8SG
@@3DPrintFarm Thank you so much. That takes care of the vat, now we just need the extra build plates. Unfortunately that's the harder of the two to make. I want to be able to instantly go from print to print, use different colors without cleaning the vat, and be able to directly hang the build plate in the curing chamber while another one goes in the machine.
Good question! I obtained this information from our Anycubic Photon Owner's group, the Photonsters. It's about halfway down the page. github.com/Photonsters/anycubic-photon-docs/blob/master/FAQ.md#vat--fep-setup
Thanks sir, and can you please make a video about adding support to a model, you mentioned in one of your videos after slicing the printing model you control it in formlabs software, can you show us :) . Thanks indeed.
I got a question for you guys. If i want to glue together parts from a model i couldn't print all in one go, what is the best glue to use? I've tried the modeling glue i have, but it just didn't seem to stick. Thanks!
If you plate was level and you haven't changed out your screen then there is no reason to relevel again. You do need to re set your Z=0 esp with a thinner FEP, the thickness of the FEP may also affect the Htz that is tuned to. Its been too many years since I wasnin band. I would have to ask around.
Mine came with this film pre-installed... Looked fine.. Printed and it developed a huge wrinkle they screwed up my print.. Why would this happen?? I mean it was from factory... One off thing I noted is the "tuning bolts were all the way tight)... I have a creality ld-002r
Hi, when i put the vat to the anycubic photon, the fep film and the screen make some air bubbles between them when they come in contact. Can someone tell me why this happens? Thanks.
Fantastic video as always. I really appreciate how to take these different parts of resin printing and break them down in a way that isn't scary and makes it easy to understand. I wish I would have had this video the first time I replaced my FEP... I was so nervous I was going to ruin something. Keep up the great work!
Thanks! I appreciate that!
Thanks so much!!
275-350 hz. I've had to come back to this video multiple times for this one piece of info. Adding it to the description would be super helpful
was just about to do the same thing. thank you sir.
Spectrum was the app. I just looked for the sound bars. My film is at 301 all over so good. YAY!!
Also worth noting that you should be testing for this with the FEP facing open air (as he does in the video) and *not* the surface of your table. Doing the latter will get you multiple peaks and higher frequency measurements depending on the surface your FEP is resting on.
Thanks for this post had to come back as I keep forgetting
ive come back to this video many times and its always a little frustrating trying to find the exact time when he says this info so thanks. surprised he hasn't put it in the description of the video yet
Thank you kind sir, I was about to give up trying to renew my FEP and watching your video has saved me (or should I say my printer) - I was not getting the tuning correct and wasted 5 sheets of FEP and now back enjoying the printer again. Thank you Thank you Thank you
Man you must be a teacher by profession because your videos are ABSOLUTELY essential watching for this hobby. Thank you so much for what you do!
Thank you, just grabbed a new photon as the last one came with a busted LCD, had about 50 failed prints in a row, and one successful one, took out the default FEP because it had become so worn out in just a few days of things getting stuck to it. Upon analyzing it's sound, it wasn't even remotely close to tight enough. Just ordered some new sheets, this video makes it looks less stressful than I'd thought.
Nice tip, using the sound analyzer to "tune" the FEP. I dread having to change mine out when the time comes, but your video makes it look slightly more tolerable than others.
They really designed the resin vats poorly, hoping someone makes one with stress free replacement.
Thanks for the video. I just got a resin printer last week and already had to replace the FEP plate. My dumbass scratched the hell out of it trying to clean it after a failed print...learned my lesson. Bought some replacements, went to replace it on my own, following the instructions were on the package, that had no mention of a bottle cap or keeping it raised above the bracket...needless to say I am replacing the FEP again. Thanks for the video. Showed me what I was doing wrong.
The only one I've seen who applied sound to measure tension. Genius
Thanks for posting this. I was having a lot of failed prints and this video fixed it. The film was not any where near tight enough. Been fine since doing the tuning adjustments in your video. 👍👍
OUTSTANDING! Glad it's all working out for you sir!
There is a Tutorial from Anycubic himself but, since I trust your Experience I did go your Way changing my FEP ( after around 1 Year ) . Thank you again for your Videos and keep it up this Way.
Just started 3D printing. Very useful information broken down big crayon style. Thank you
fantastic FEP change IN DETAIL. Same quality details as the Photon leveling video. As was true with that video, FEP changes have a lot of variables that most gloss over, but not you sir. Thank you for hitting every point. Got that one missing detail I was missing from everywhere else here.
*_OUTTA CURIOSITY_* -- Can you buy bad FEP that just isn't the right stuff, like a bad lot or whatever?
Excellent tutorial, Love this guy's video's. I bought my printer last week and had so many failed prints until I tightened the FEP using this as a tutorial. I also bought some WD-40 anti friction dry ptfe spray, squirt some on (it will go milky white but will clear in seconds) and wipe it off with a microfibre cloth and EVERY print has come out beautifully since.
thank you very much sir i wasnt sure how to change my FEP out and i found your video and you walked me right through the process sir you haved help me alot through my journey of resin 3d printing sir and i readlly do appreciate a lot sir
Greatly appreciated, sir! I'm about to change my FEP for the first time, and this makes it look really easy! I'm hoping I can find an Android app that works as well as the one you're using.
Very helpful instructions - thanks. Could you put the frequency range in the description? It would really help. Thanks!
"Recessed holes" aka "chamfered holes" (sham-furred). Anycubic could have fixed all of this non-sense with a few alignment pins.
The tuning part! WOW! Very nice. The app worked even over the internet into my speakers!
Great video. I will do my first ever FEP change this evening. I feel a lot less nervous about it now.
@ 7:48 - "countersunk" is the word... ;-) Sorry, couldn't help it! Love your vids - great sense of humour and delivery, maybe I relate because I believe we're roughly the same age!...Just waiting for my Photon to arrive and absorbing what I can.
Ha! Us old guys have the right to have fun too! :)
I just bought some fep for my Orange 10 and was looking at The 3D Club but ended up going with F1rst Layer. It was cheap and is working very well so far.
Subscribed, not only for the helpful info, but because of the safe in the background. ;)
Ok darn it. I have watched three good videos from you and now am subscribed. Video on my friend, great content
Thank you. First time FEP changer and you helped me make it work.
Thanks for the informative video. I just changed my fep after watching your guide and it's working great.
Massively cool. Thanks for this video. Just little things like using the Gatorade cap can save a lot of time and anguish.
Thank you! This was a very painless FEP replacement. I couldn't download the app you used (Android here) so I had to search for one that works but managed.
great vid! now i am lookin foward to my first fep change!
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Hey thanks for taking the time to make this video and being entertaining. This is very helpful when switching from FDM to SLA.
Instructions are a bit too long for the task at hand but overall covers all the does and don'ts. Great video thanks for sharing.
Best FEP replacement video I have seen. Really great job. Thanks!
Just changed my FEP, and your video provided me with all of the tools to have a successful FEB change. Thank you for the great information. Your videos are a great source for all 3D printers alike.
thanks for the great tutorial, i use pre heated in oven, laminate sheets they are pet so perfect ,and you get them in A4 sheets x2 ,hope that helps ,
a MUST for fine- tuning your Anycubic Photon!
Literally tone matched to your video...printing my first print now. Hope you got it right, else I'm coming for you! Nah kiddin' man, thanks for the info! Really helpful :D
For Android I use Audizr. Its ready out of the box and super intuitive. Spectrum as mentioned here is Apple only
Awesome channel mate! Keep doing the good work.
For everyone. Please make sure the gloves u are using when handling DLP resin are nitrile and not Latex.
Yep! I have changed my workflow since this video.. ONLY USE NITRILE! Latex will each resin.
Timely advice sir. Many thanks for the walk thru.
I think out of factory the film wasn't tight enough. Also instructions aren't always very clear so videos like this are essential. Thanks.
i bought some sovol vats for my anycubic photon mono and they forgot to remove the protective film from the FEPs, which made bubbles between the two layers. i took one out, removed the film, and put it back in and it's only measuring 160hz even through the screws are all completely bottomed out. i tested the other one that still has the protective film and it's only 190hz. how important is it that the tightness is 350hz? if it is going to cause problems then i guess i can just order some FEP sheets and make a fresh one, but i've also read in negative reviews that some people can't even get their sheets to tighten tight enough because there just isn't enough travel in the design of this vat.
Brilliant video, useful information, keep on doing these videos about Anycubic Photo :)
Does the change in thickness require a different leveling process (ie. a different height to set 0 at)?
thanks for the video. All the goofy little voices makes me think Michael Scott of the office lol
Thanks man, you saved me a bunch of aggravation!!,
Great video. I have to change mine and this was very helpful.
Do you have any other app recommendations? I cant find it on my android and I have no clue how to red the others ones. Just starting the other apps show 1000+ hz with no sounds what so ever
Just picked up Sound Spectrum Analyzer Pro for 0.99 cents as a recommended app in the play store.
gatorade cap>? Certainly there must be a more standard option right? Any suggestions other than gatorade because thats ambiguous. what else can be used?
Another great resource! Thank you!
Hey I'm having a problem. I removed both films on the fep and I installed the fep successfully. I tried printing and it wont stick to the build plate. Any suggestions?
Edit: the time that I set for each layer was too low and it didn't harden fast enough, causing it to come lose from the plate
Want to start by saying that I am greatly appreciative of your videos and that they were the deciding factor on whether I purchased a 3D Printer or not. Well, I bought one. An Anycubic Photon. Ran into a bit of a scare after my 3rd successful print (first failure was due to improper zeroing), when I heard an odd emanating from the printer. Turns out, there was a slight puncture in the FEP and it had leaked a couple drops of resin down onto the screen and was being cured. I am HOPING that I managed to catch it before any serious damage had occurred. I was able to gently scrape the partially cured resin from the screen, ran a couple UV projection tests, and it appears everything is in working order. However, I purchased my printer via Amazon, and apparently it didn't come with an extra FEP in the box. My question; How did you make out with the 3D Club FEP? Comparable to the AnyCubic branded FEP or?
1. The "HOLES" are called Countersunk Screw Holes.
2. Since the resin gets between the FEP and Tensioner do I need separate vats for water washable resin and standard resin?
3. Also, can you just use your wash station to clean the resin off the 3 metal parts?
Excellent, thanks for sharing.
I think I found a better way to tune the tightness of the FEP film. Hold your film next to your computer speaker and vary the frequency using an online frequency generator until you hit the resonant frequency. You will know you have hit the resonant frequency when the film vibrates the most, kind of like a tuning fork without having to smack the delicate FEP film. Mine started to show small dents even with an eraser.
Useful video as always, Sir 😊
I had a problem that when I tried to print 3 minis across the middle, the middle one always failed (just a puddle on the FEP, nothing on the plate). On the other hand, if I printed anything in the middle of the FEP with nothing on either side, no problem. Last night I changed the FEP reprinted the same exact file with the same resin, and everything failed. I did get rafts and supports but the rest was stuck to the FEP or flat and stupid looking on the supports.
Now I will say my ability to get a Hz reading with my sound analyzer app is highly inconsistent. I also don't like denting the FEP. I suspect by these two problems that there could be a tensioning problem across the surface of the FEP. Sides vs middle. Any thoughts? And how can I get a FEP tuned that I can print a whole build plate of stuff? Thanks!
First thing I would check would be your build plate to make sure it is flat. Lay a straight edge (Steel ruler) on the plate and hold both up to a light source. Can you see any light leaking through the space between the ruler and the build plate? If your plate is level, make sure you have the build plate leveled consistently all the way around. My method of leveling works, but the "Flint Read" Method works very well also. Another thing you might check is the exposure time on your bottom layers. You might bump them up a bit. Have you ever ran the Photon Exposure test on your resin?
@@3DPrintFarm I appreciate your help. There was only one variable change though, I replaced the FEP (and it's tension). I've uploaded before and after pictures if you care to have a look. photos.app.goo.gl/qpHHyZcGCiQYk5Xy5 The before photo has a puddle in the middle (on the build plate), the after has models ripped from their supports. So is after too tight or too loose? Thanks again!
Your videos are so amazingly helpful but could you please add some critical information, upon your next update or perhaps in a caption, letting users know to remove any protective film specifically from the Anycubic FEP or any other manufacturers that place a protective film on it. Anycubic's video and every tutorial I've ever seen does not mention this point and it's a critical cause of failure for prints. It's not readily apparent if you just dive into RUclips as your step-by-step location for new users. Keep the amazing training coming.
hello, why should i have to relevel my build plate if i change the fep ?!
Also what the app is called again? There are a lot of spectrum apps in the Marquette, thanks for the great video!!
Fantastic tip from a fantastic printer guru ! Very very very helpfull content.. 5 star
Thanks man!
You're welcome!! But.. who's have to thank you it's me 😁😁 It's people like you that help a lot the community :) keep the nice job 👌👍👍👍👏
If you have a cordless drill and a spare allen key, you can cut off a section of the allen key with a hack saw or something and put that in the drill. I wouldn't recommend the drill for putting it back together, but taking it off will save you some time.
Are small scrathes a Problem. I had a problem with my first prints where the prints stuck to the FEP and not the Printbed, had to use some force to remove it. What could be the reason for it not sticking. the testprint cube i did right before that worked perfektly. So it shold have been level. or do I need to level it between prints ?
Your film may not be tight enough.
Greetings from Italy , I love your videos, they have a lot of valuable information, thank you for sharing your knowledge. One question I just bought the anycubic photo mono and the one to wash and cure the 3 d pieces. Could I use 99% denaturated alcohol? I know that the one they recommend is Isopropyl alcohol. Thanks for your attention.
Cheers for the heads up on the FEP, I was able to order it from the UK with 5 bucks postage.
Awesome!
Great video. Would it be the same Hz range for larger bed printers such as the Anycubic Mono x due to the larger print surface. Thank you in advance. Keep up the great work.
one thing i always wantet to say: didnt had a bottle cap and used some sponge. so the final tension got higher than i wanted before the screws got deep enough. that means if you wanna hit a certain frequency and you stop screwing the screews in check for the lowest part. if you screws are still to low your fep isnt flat on your screen. had to tighten it up much more. anyway i have no issue with a frequency over 500hz. makes me wonder how many peopel have problems through protruding screws.
Higher is OK.
So i recently changed my fep on my elegoo mars and initially had issues with it sticking too well to the fep film. I didn't tune it though, I just tightened all the screws all the way down like the elegoo instructions say.. lol. Do you think I may have stretched the fep too much? I can still hear an audible peeling sound every time the plate lifts up, and im getting some random minor layer lines in my prints.
Like another person here, weren't ahead without pressing play & tightened the screws. Will it work fine running at 450-500mhz or can I loosen it?
Great video on Anycubic FEP tuning. Used it on the 2 AC printers I have and the tuning greatly decreased print failure. Am wondering if you or anyone watching has found a way to tune Wanhao D7 vat FEPs? They don't have the two steel gaskets....only one and therefore one set of screws to fasten and pull the FEP taunt at the same time. Seems critical to have the FEP fairly tight before piercing for screw holes. FEP tuning frequency is a crap shoot in the end. Any suggestions most appreciated.
I guess when i get different Numbers while "Drumtesting" like 328Hz everywhere but 420Hz in one corner i have to release tension in that corner right?
I saw it made a big difference if if had the VAT Standing on one side (like in your video) or if i held it in hand. So i decided to place it with the long side on the Table.
Am Testprinting right now... hope it works :D
i just finetuned i'm still affraid of changing the FEP without having an emergency VAT at the ready lol...
Nice Video and good tip with the spectrum analyzer!
Do you tighten every single screw while testing the frequency?
What pitch is best for other sized vats like the anycubic photon mono x?
How did you come up with that natural frequency? Why around 300Hz?
Just a question. Why do you have to re-level the Machine after you change you FEP? Since you do not use the FEP for leveling?
Great question! And you have a good point! I level mine out of habit. You'll find sometimes you will have to relevel your machine when prints are acting strangely as in not sticking. Bolts get loosened and the build plate may get out of alignment after multiple prints.
@@3DPrintFarm Thx, I damage my FEP on my first print!!! Now I know when it stick just let it soak in IPA. Merry Christmas.
@@Centurion3D Merry Christmas to you too my friend! Happy Printing!
Great video, mate.
Gaterade isn't a thing in UK, is it the same as lucozade or milk bottle top?
What tool did you used to make the holes?
What is the purpose of the tuning?
why is it we have to relevel the bed after changing the FEP since these aren't connected?
reason I'm asking is that my bed hasn't been releveled in almost 2 years (400-500 hours) of printing and even though it probably wouldn't change anything I'm woried that doing it might change something that has been working for ages
is it a bad Idea to increase the layer size to 0.2mm when printing straigt objects like a cubus ? theoreticaly it should hve no effeckt on looks and just decrease the printing time but are there other side effects?
what can I do to remove the print from the FEP ithout scratching it? And could it also be a problem of exposure time ? should i make the exposure time longer? Can anything bad happen from making the exposure time too long ?
Did the FEP sheets from 3D club have protective films on them?
No. I don't believe they did.
@@3DPrintFarm Thank you, I have been having issues since my FEP replacement, I will try the hertz meter tonight.
Thank you!
is all this info true for any FEP (8.9", 15.6", etc), or only for the one shown here? If not, what are the frequencies required for others? How did you determine the ideal frequency range?
Wish they would specify. Support documentation on all aspects of Anycubic is lacking. Things like how do you update the firmware? Are never answered without contacting support or finding others who have done it before.
Real stupid question but could I use the cap of a milk container or a distilled water container for the spacer instead of the cap of gatorade or soda? I don't know how the sizes compare and if it is that critical. I've never replaced the FEP before.
Sure! A milk container or distilled water cap would be fine!
@@3DPrintFarm thank you.
@@3DPrintFarm I replaced my FEP for the first time. I was a bit nervous doing it but it went well. Your video really helped. Thanks
It's a shame that obtaining a new vat or build plate to go along with our new FEP is so difficult. I found one supplier but they're always out of stock. Might need to make them ourselves apparently. Thoughts?
I purchased a new vat on Amazon a couple weeks ago from an authorized Anycubic seller and have been really happy with it. I do agree, however, I'd like to see someone make up some reliable build plates and vats. It sure does make things handy when going from print to print. Here's the link to the vat I purchased. www.amazon.com/dp/B07MGV9PYK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_UPzGCbTHAH8SG
@@3DPrintFarm Thank you so much. That takes care of the vat, now we just need the extra build plates. Unfortunately that's the harder of the two to make.
I want to be able to instantly go from print to print, use different colors without cleaning the vat, and be able to directly hang the build plate in the curing chamber while another one goes in the machine.
I'm with ya there. Extra build plates would be a boon to the Photon users.
@@3DPrintFarm How did you obtain the appropriate Hz for the FEP sound?
Good question! I obtained this information from our Anycubic Photon Owner's group, the Photonsters. It's about halfway down the page. github.com/Photonsters/anycubic-photon-docs/blob/master/FAQ.md#vat--fep-setup
Maaan you are such a cool nerd ) I mean your are awesome!
Hello, Thank's for your vidéo.. Hello,
Can you give me the Amazon ref to buy the movie because I can not find ... Best regards
So whats that "ass leaner" product appearing after 2 minute in the video?
Great video as always. Can you please make print with new sheet, and show us the difference . Thanks
Will do!! Thanks!
Thanks sir, and can you please make a video about adding support to a model, you mentioned in one of your videos after slicing the printing model you control it in formlabs software, can you show us :) . Thanks indeed.
Will do! Stay tuned!
Is this the same method for a elegoo mars 2?
Hope tall are gstorage caps? Anycubic uses a 13mm cap in their vid.
I got a question for you guys. If i want to glue together parts from a model i couldn't print all in one go, what is the best glue to use? I've tried the modeling glue i have, but it just didn't seem to stick. Thanks!
2 options that i use are 1:Super Glue (CYANOACRYLATE) or 2:Just use the RESIN and a 405nm (Purple) laser light source.
Is it enough to just tap it in the middle?
Does the 275~350Hz relate to the thickness of the FEP?
If you plate was level and you haven't changed out your screen then there is no reason to relevel again. You do need to re set your Z=0 esp with a thinner FEP, the thickness of the FEP may also affect the Htz that is tuned to. Its been too many years since I wasnin band. I would have to ask around.
Mine came with this film pre-installed... Looked fine.. Printed and it developed a huge wrinkle they screwed up my print.. Why would this happen?? I mean it was from factory... One off thing I noted is the "tuning bolts were all the way tight)...
I have a creality ld-002r
If the temperature drops during printing should I increase the xposure time ?
what kind of gloves are you wearing. the resin will leak right through most
Very helpful
Hi, when i put the vat to the anycubic photon, the fep film and the screen make some air bubbles between them when they come in contact. Can someone tell me why this happens? Thanks.