If you’re here to find a solution to your binding, skip to 13:04. Basically you just remove the outer o-ring from the shock tower mount to reduce friction caused by the shocks mounts not being free floating.
I found that mounting them upside down, helps prevent that binding. Also, completely removing the springs, and going for full dropp also benefitts DB shocks. The DB shocks, get so short that the spring will actually bind up the shocks too. At full comprehension, the springs like to bend out of position, causing the coils to get stuck between the shafts/barrels. Also, use some decent grease on em. Mine hardly ever bind now. (Mounted to an FMS FCX24)
Sideloading the shock. So when you take the oring off it allows the top of the shock to move when sideloaded and unload itself instead of binding up. Didnt think of that till you said it. Im the "what the hell did i do wrong" guy last night lol
Hey thank you so much bro! I was wondering what I did wrong with mine. But never will I go & say bad things about the products I chose to pay for at my own will & minimal knowledge of its workings. F those people. They only know how to complain in life & not figure out solutions or do complete research prior to making a decision. Thanks again man!!!👌🏾 Edit: I just realized I figured this out already on mine & it was an issue when I _first_ bought them 😅 I grabbed my rig & noticed it was smooth & no binding. Looked closer, & I infact did remove the inner o-rings! Regardless, it's a very valuable lesson!
I've got mine set up with the telescoping shocks in the rear but using my stock shocks in the front. Get almost double the flex of the stock shocks. Close to the same range as if all four were the double barrel shocks.
Thank you this is exactly what I was looking for. I have the injora double barrel shocks same thing but I can figure out what is the softer spring I don't feel any differents, they have the same colors as your but come with the black ones installed I guess they would be the same? Any way this fix is a must for anyone getting these if you don't do this then the shocks are useless. I put one limiting strat on the front center only because that's really all you need and I use some elastic plack string this allows a little flex. In the center and gives me full flex on all tires I also recommend adding weights to the truck since the springs are so stiff. Thanks for the help this was a perfect tip.
Yo Mofo! I have an even better fix for our problem!🤘🇺🇲 infact I'm pretty sure I used some of the 3D printed random parts out of your lcg kit or the flex blades Anyways, you need to add a small 3dprinted spacer between the frame and upper shock mount. Spreading the upper shocks away from the frame to give them clearance(that's where they bind, between the frame and shock being to close together) This frees the doubleB shocks up completely without the O-ring modification🤘🇺🇲
I have had success with this method as well, using a hole punch to cut my own tiny spacers from leather. A 2-3mm spacer between the top of the forward shock and the shock tower is enough to prevent binding.
I'm still working on my. MOFO Ugly AF chassis, and I've got Hot Racing Emulsion shocks on it. What I've noticed on this chassis and my Origin RC Scrambler is that the shock tops rub on the chassis, causing binding. When the axle is at an angle, the shock body and shaft are visibly out of alignment. I put a tiny nut on each one as a spacer, and it's free as a bird.
Good deal... The other thing is the hex head cap bolt has ridges that loves to grind against the inner barrel, Take the heads and sand those off then polish them smooth, grease and they are so smooth!
For the Springs crunching you just need to put some tacky grease not regular grease because it will get hot and come down but the tacky grease will stay stuck to the metal Shocks and not come down as much on a hot day.... they sell grease inside Lowe's Lucas Grease it's for a grease gun but I just put my finger in and grab the grease out and use what I need
Does this fix translate to your oil filled socks? I just got them and I’m super disappointed because they feel all gritty like you described here. They also don’t fully extend without physically pulling the wheels down. They don’t all do that but one or two definitely feel rougher (grittier) than others. I’m using the soft springs because the stiff springs didn’t allow for ANY shock compression with just the weight of the vehicle. I feel an in between would be perfect. I’m using treal wheels ~24 grams each and brass wheel spacers.
With the double barrel adjustable shock. If you turn the adjuster down will it raise the height of a scx 24 c10? Looking for a little more height and clearance.
How soft is the softest spring? I got the Tikiscience brand I think. And the softest spring still seems to stiff!!! I don’t want to add weight to the top end to make it drop. What do you suggest?????? Thank you
You talk to much.. All I wanted was to see how to stop the shocks from binding. But i had to watch 20 minutes of talking. For you to say it's the O- ring. Somthing i already know about.
You whine too much about someone offering free help to solve a problem that you couldn't figure out for yourself. You might want to reevaluate your thinking.
If you’re here to find a solution to your binding, skip to 13:04. Basically you just remove the outer o-ring from the shock tower mount to reduce friction caused by the shocks mounts not being free floating.
Great video. Still hoping your products become availabke in the U.K. Everyone says your stuff is the best.
I dont even have my kms shocks yet and im still glad i found this only complaint i have is you filming in up right
I found that mounting them upside down, helps prevent that binding. Also, completely removing the springs, and going for full dropp also benefitts DB shocks. The DB shocks, get so short that the spring will actually bind up the shocks too. At full comprehension, the springs like to bend out of position, causing the coils to get stuck between the shafts/barrels.
Also, use some decent grease on em. Mine hardly ever bind now. (Mounted to an FMS FCX24)
Sideloading the shock. So when you take the oring off it allows the top of the shock to move when sideloaded and unload itself instead of binding up.
Didnt think of that till you said it. Im the "what the hell did i do wrong" guy last night lol
Hey thank you so much bro! I was wondering what I did wrong with mine. But never will I go & say bad things about the products I chose to pay for at my own will & minimal knowledge of its workings. F those people. They only know how to complain in life & not figure out solutions or do complete research prior to making a decision.
Thanks again man!!!👌🏾
Edit: I just realized I figured this out already on mine & it was an issue when I _first_ bought them 😅 I grabbed my rig & noticed it was smooth & no binding. Looked closer, & I infact did remove the inner o-rings! Regardless, it's a very valuable lesson!
Oh my god! Why didn't come up with that myself?!😑
That was a great video! Thank you so much!! I'll try that out!
Take care!🤘🏼
I've got mine set up with the telescoping shocks in the rear but using my stock shocks in the front. Get almost double the flex of the stock shocks. Close to the same range as if all four were the double barrel shocks.
Thank you this is exactly what I was looking for. I have the injora double barrel shocks same thing but I can figure out what is the softer spring I don't feel any differents, they have the same colors as your but come with the black ones installed I guess they would be the same? Any way this fix is a must for anyone getting these if you don't do this then the shocks are useless. I put one limiting strat on the front center only because that's really all you need and I use some elastic plack string this allows a little flex. In the center and gives me full flex on all tires I also recommend adding weights to the truck since the springs are so stiff. Thanks for the help this was a perfect tip.
Yo Mofo! I have an even better fix for our problem!🤘🇺🇲 infact I'm pretty sure I used some of the 3D printed random parts out of your lcg kit or the flex blades
Anyways, you need to add a small 3dprinted spacer between the frame and upper shock mount. Spreading the upper shocks away from the frame to give them clearance(that's where they bind, between the frame and shock being to close together) This frees the doubleB shocks up completely without the O-ring modification🤘🇺🇲
I have had success with this method as well, using a hole punch to cut my own tiny spacers from leather. A 2-3mm spacer between the top of the forward shock and the shock tower is enough to prevent binding.
I'm still working on my. MOFO Ugly AF chassis, and I've got Hot Racing Emulsion shocks on it. What I've noticed on this chassis and my Origin RC Scrambler is that the shock tops rub on the chassis, causing binding. When the axle is at an angle, the shock body and shaft are visibly out of alignment.
I put a tiny nut on each one as a spacer, and it's free as a bird.
Good deal... The other thing is the hex head cap bolt has ridges that loves to grind against the inner barrel, Take the heads and sand those off then polish them smooth, grease and they are so smooth!
You could also sand down the edges of the barrel to make it more smooth it's probably slightly rough
I own theses shocks. Noticed the “gritty” feel when new. Add green slime inside the shocks.
Very informative!!! Answered all my questions and concerns great video
you stay on top of everything! good stuff.
For the Springs crunching you just need to put some tacky grease not regular grease because it will get hot and come down but the tacky grease will stay stuck to the metal Shocks and not come down as much on a hot day.... they sell grease inside Lowe's Lucas Grease it's for a grease gun but I just put my finger in and grab the grease out and use what I need
Thats awesome man thanks they work great after that.
Do you just remove the top o-ring? Or the bottom as well? Got a set of your "double barrels" in the post would be nice to get it right
I remove 1 from each. Just have 1 oring to hold each ball on with the large end of the brass ball to the outside
Does this fix translate to your oil filled socks? I just got them and I’m super disappointed because they feel all gritty like you described here. They also don’t fully extend without physically pulling the wheels down. They don’t all do that but one or two definitely feel rougher (grittier) than others. I’m using the soft springs because the stiff springs didn’t allow for ANY shock compression with just the weight of the vehicle. I feel an in between would be perfect. I’m using treal wheels ~24 grams each and brass wheel spacers.
With the double barrel adjustable shock. If you turn the adjuster down will it raise the height of a scx 24 c10?
Looking for a little more height and clearance.
Gravitational tension/resistance?
How soft is the softest spring? I got the Tikiscience brand I think. And the softest spring still seems to stiff!!! I don’t want to add weight to the top end to make it drop. What do you suggest?????? Thank you
Great infotainment
The o-ring delete…just the one on the top or should the bottom mount also have one removed?
You talk to much.. All I wanted was to see how to stop the shocks from binding. But i had to watch 20 minutes of talking. For you to say it's the O- ring. Somthing i already know about.
You whine too much about someone offering free help to solve a problem that you couldn't figure out for yourself. You might want to reevaluate your thinking.